These hotels and B&Bs across South Africa have all been screened by the Getaway team. Treat yourself to a stay at one of these top destinations.

Also read

• 10 dreamy treehouses for a faraway break
• Cosy cabins for a winter break
• 12 of our favourite farm stays across South Africa
• Remote camps and cottages for a digital detox

Please note that the prices below are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before travelling.

Gauteng

1. De Hoek Country Hotel, Magaliesberg

Cost: From R2950 per room B&B.
Contact: www.dehoek.com.

A luxurious landmark set in a peaceful, fertile valley in the Magaliesberg, De Hoek is a sandstone house in manicured gardens with a fine reputation for good food and personal service. This easily accessible retreat has expanded over the years, but remains exclusive. Additional suites and rooms adhere to the original style, and The Conservatory restaurant, Compass Bar, indoor and outdoor terraces and gardens combine to lift the spirits. It’s winter at its best, with gas res, spa treatments or activities such as hot-air ballooning and walking trails. Happily not just another property that has expanded to cater just for events and weddings, like so many in that area – you are their guest and that is their focus.

2. Hotel QSL on 44, Johannesburg

Cost: From R1000 per room B&B.
Contact: www.qslon44.com.

If you like modern, innovative conversions of spaces built for other purposes, you’ll love Hotel QSL on 44. Being central is important for a car-less traveller, and it’s true here: a two-minute walk away is 44 Stanley, a vibrant, hip space good for shopping, socialising and dining. You’ll also eat breakfast there (you’re given a voucher for a choice of two venues), as Hotel QSL doesn’t do food. It does do good Wi-Fi and Netflix. It’s a place that feels modern and unfussy, but the quality is high and you’ll be well looked after here.

3. Hallmark Hotel, Johannesburg

Cost: From R1210 per room.
Contact: www.hallmarkhouse.co.za.

When you’re in a very urban space in the city, there are two ways you can go: try to mitigate its concrete, its noise, its grey tar, hard corners and yellow lines, or you can embrace these elements. The latter is how to describe what Hallmark House does. It’s a 13-storey building, excluding parking levels. The suites are only two storeys; the rest is given over to apartments and penthouses, and on the rooftop, there’s a spa, gym and bar/restaurant. The hotel celebrates Africa classily – gorgeous big woven baskets, wooden stools/side tables, red pots and local art. All the rooms have full-length glass doors that lead out onto concrete balconies, some bigger than others, all with chairs and a side table. And below you is the busyness of downtown Joburg.

Mpumalanga

4. Buhala Lodge, Malelane

Cost: From R4050 per room B&B.
Contact: www.buhala.co.za.

Many people return time and again to this long-standing family-owned and run property set on the southern bank of the Crocodile River in a game-rich area. Buhala has warm, comfortable, thatched accommodation and a relaxed environment. When you’re in need of a break from game drives in the Kruger and elsewhere, simply stay put on the lodge decks – with a drink in hand, you can watch game on the river’s edge from there. Happily, too, for golfers, the famed Leopard Creek is a short drive away.

Also read: Getaway’s top-rated accommodation in White River and Hazyview.

5. Walkersons Hotel and Spa, Dullstroom

Cost: R2250 per person DBB.
Contact: www.walkersons.co.za.

 This well-established country house has recently been given a nip and a tuck to freshen her up, in this scenic setting of unspoilt grassland, lush wetlands and striking rocky outcrops. Activities in the area include everything from birding, hiking and trout fishing to clay-pigeon shooting and picnicking, and there’s a very good spa for those who want to pamper themselves. Walkersons combines all of this with comfort, wonderful dining and a well-stocked wine cellar, but the secret here is that the older (more reasonable) Lakeside Suites are the ones to book as they’re charming.

Limpopo

6. Mhondoro Game Lodge, Vaalwater

Cost: From R4600 per person full board.
Contact: www.mhondoro.com.

You’ll find Mhondoro in Welgevonden Game Reserve, in the Waterberg area. It opened early last year and is in a gorgeous setting made even better by the calm, beautiful decor. What’s particularly special is the hide, set into the ground at eye-level; the refreshingly fresh and healthy food (there’s an on-site vegetable garden); plus it is well-geared for kids, with dedicated play spaces for various age groups. It’s a Big Five experience and a great place to spot white rhino which are protected within the reserve.

7. Karongwe River Lodge, Greater Kruger Area

Cost: From R3500 per person full board, but you can find good deals with Bushbreaks.
Contact: www.karongweportfolio.com

Being close to the Kruger National Park, Karongwe Private Game Reserve is in Big Five territory and obligingly has all five, plus all the other richness the bushveld has to offer. It is a large tract of land (9000 hectares) through which the Makhutsi River runs. On its bank this spacious, classic wooden lodge is set, which means it’s ideal for game viewing. Karongwe also prides itself on its gourmet offering.

8. Leshiba Wilderness, Soutpansberg

Cost: From R2025 per person full board.
Contact: www.leshiba.co.za.

Leshiba Wilderness is a 2600-hectare eco-friendly reserve in the gorgeous, biodiversity-rich Soutpansberg with luxury and off-the-grid options great for a weekend escape from Gauteng. The luxury lodge inspired by Venda clay-making traditions consists of five en-suite rondavel-style huts overlooking the plains. Nature lovers can hike, bike and swim the streams to explore the unique biome and cross paths with both zebra, giraffe and more.

Eastern Cape

9. The Fernery, Tsitsikamma

Cost: From R1300 per person self-catering B&B.
Contact: www.forestferns.co.za.

Hidden away at the end of a road that cuts through six kilometres of plantation bordering a protected national park, The Fernery is attached to a nursery that exports ferns. There’s a mix of self-catering chalets and B&B cabins linked by boardwalks and spread along the cliff edge, but the main lodge stands like a sentinel on stilts, poised dauntingly high on the one side of the Sanddrift River Gorge. From the fabulous ocean-facing suites you experience a full-scale drama of waves crashing against the near-distant headland where the river finally meets the Indian Ocean. The nearby chalets, meanwhile, are ideal for families – the best of these are private and secluded, and spiffily decorated, with full kitchens, braai facilities, and loads of space.

10. Dune Ridge Country House, St Francis Bay

Cost: From R2624 per room B&B.
Contact: www.duneridgestfrancis.co.za.

Owner Sarah-Jane Swanepoel has created a comfortable hideaway on the outskirts of St Francis, set in an indigenous garden where nyala often come to graze. The six double rooms and one family cottage are finely decorated and the ‘swallow-me’ beds hard to leave. But you’ll be tempted to get up for Sarah’s divine food, especially on a cold winter’s night where dinner is served next to the large indoor replace. Pumpkin and sweet potato soup, bobotie-spiced impala loin, followed by apple tarte Tatin is one delectable meal option. Walk it all off later on the beach and in the dunes.

11. Umngazi River Bungalows & Spa, Port St Johns

Cost: From R1145 per person full board.
Contact: www.umngazi.co.za.

This wonderful Wild Coast resort is so loved by families that it’s often booked out during the summer season. Its recent and ongoing revamp has made it more welcoming than ever. The winter rate is not that generous thanks to its demand due to good year-round weather, but because this is such a treat for family getaways we’ve included it. The resort is set on the Mngazi River mouth, which makes gentle waters for children. Activities range from mountain biking, exploring the natural surroundings to fishing, birding and more.

12. Woodall Country House and Spa, Sundays River Valley

Cost: From R1770 per person B&B.
Contact: www.woodall-addo.co.za.

Tucked away on a citrus farm outside Addo is the well-established, owner-managed Woodall Country House & Spa, renowned for its good South African country cuisine and wines, hospitality and a spa to relax in. It’s ideally situated for visits to Addo Elephant National Park and other reserves in the area, which showcase the beautiful landscape in this corner of the Eastern Cape. The Millers also have their own game-viewing vehicle, which is used to take their guests on game drives into the parks. You don’t have to move, though – there’s excellent birding from the outdoor decks overlooking a small lake.

13. Camp Figtree, Sundays River Valley

Cost: From R1250 per person B&B.
Contact: www.campfigtree.com.

Conveniently situated for those who fly into Port Elizabeth or self-drive, this is a uniquely well-placed private game reserve. It offers an excellent bush break where you can view the Big Five, but you might well be lulled into the sheer comfort of the lodge and never go on a game drive. The cabins are lovely, set high so the balconies have incredible views over unspoilt Eastern Cape flora and you feel immersed in nature; it’s an ideal romantic break. The rangers and staff are all well trained, so service is good, as is the food.

Also read: 14 fantastic stays around Addo Elephant Park.

Kwa-Zulu Natal

14. Montusi Mountain Lodge, Northern Drakensberg

Cost: From R1885 per person full board.
Contact: www.montusi.co.za.

This lodge, developed and owned by the Carte family, is a hugely comfortable haven situated on a large tract of land with views of the foothills and mountains. There’s plenty to do, from hiking and horse riding to fly fishing, birding or even doing nothing but reading. Plus the food is good. This is where you can rekindle your childhood Berg holiday memories or introduce your children to this memorable experience.

15. Isibindi Kosi Forest Lodge, Isimangaliso Wetland Park

Cost: From R2650 per person full board.
Contact: www.kosiforestlodge.co.za.

This is one of South Africa’s top wildlife destinations thanks to its varied habitat. Set in an indigenous forest under gorgeous old trees, you’ll find this magical lodge with its cosy chalets and outdoor showers where resident monkeys peep out at you. It’s fantastic for birders, and don’t miss a canoe ride on the Kosi Lake System.

16. Fordoun, Nottingham Road

Cost: From R1040 per person B&B.
Contact: www.fordoun.com.

This is a beautiful and immaculately maintained country-house hotel set in rolling gardens with views across the Midlands. The rooms are superbly comfortable, the decor pleasing – think Nguni-framed prints, old red-brick features, a mix of Biggie Best prints. There’s an excellent restaurant and the extremely good spa on-site (in a converted cowshed) is the primary attraction of this property. It’s a peaceful, relaxing choice for a short or longer break with a range of activities available, too, including walks, fly fishing, birding and mountain biking.

17. Coral Tree Colony, Southbroom

Cost: From R775 per person B&B.
Contact: www.thecoraltree.com.

On KwaZulu-Natal’s Hibiscus Coast, Southbroom is probably the most sought-after seaside village with its lush tropical vegetation, renowned golf course and magnificent beaches. Here you’ll find family-run Coral Tree Colony, a beautiful, modern colonial-style property and peaceful hideaway, but with a range of more active pastimes should you want them – fishing, kayaking, surfing, hiking, whale watching and more. Thankfully the commercialism that has changed the character of many of our coastal resorts has bypassed this area, so if you’re looking for an unpretentious but lovely escape, you’ll find it here.

18. Ghost Mountain Inn, Mkhuze

Cost: From R820 per person B&B.
Contact: www.ghostmountaininn.co.za.

Set in Northern KZN, this privately owned and run inn in Mkuze is an ideal location from which to explore the many reserves in Maputaland and the Elephant Coast. Set in an immaculate garden, this is a property that has been wonderfully maintained and updated, with delicious cuisine and a wine list that can match those of the best Cape Winelands properties. Plus it has a very good spa.

19. Cathedral Peak Hotel, Drakensberg

Cost: From R1495 per person full board.
Contact: www.cathedralpeak.co.za.

Just 250 kilometres from Durban and 400 kilometres from Joburg, this sprawling resort emits an old-school traditional hotel feel – guests have enjoyed hospitality here since it opened in 1939. The area is a great escape for couples or an active family – there are 18 walking trails traversing the World Heritage Site (guided options are also available if you have a special interest in the local rock art), plus an endless log of ways to excite kids: archery, horse and pony rides, mountain-bike trails, outdoor chess, beach volleyball, badminton, floodlit mini-adventure golf, a climbing tower, plus heated and cold outdoor swimming pools. There are a variety of accommodation options – from homely thatched, stonewall units to interleading family rooms – for a variety of budgets, but ask for a room that faces the mountains.

Northern Cape

20. Bloemhofkaroo, Richmond Area

Cost: From R875 per person B&B.
Contact: www.bloemhof-karoo.co.za

Conveniently situated off the N1 some 25 kilometres south of Richmond in the Great Karoo, is BloemhofKaroo. This peaceful haven on a working farm has the talented, hospitable Jenny Pickard as owner, and a rich history – it was once home to the late Professor Chris Barnard. It’s worth more than an overnight stop, and is the ideal family getaway or artists’ retreat. You can swim in the farm’s ‘swemdam’, hike, mountain bike and picnic – at night the stargazing is incredible. The accommodation is hugely comfortable, with a charming authenticity. You’ll have roaring fires, winter food plus a friendly team that will oversee your stay.

Also read: 23 of Getaway’s favourite affordable Karoo cottages under R500.

Western Cape

21. Schoone Oordt Country House, Swellendam

Cost: From R1575 per person B&B.
Contact: www.schooneoordt.co.za.

Schoone Oordt is a charming hotel, set in a gorgeous garden, well worth more than a one-night stay. The service is wonderful, the food and wine delicious and the pretty manicured gardens make it ideal for couples or families. Swellendam is rich in history and atmosphere, with museums and galleries, some excellent restaurants and authentic shops. The surrounding countryside includes the unsung Bontebok National Park, good hiking routes and mountain-bike trails.

22. Batholomeus Klip, Riebeek Valley

Cost: From R3500 for a self-catering house that sleeps six.
Contact: www.bartholomeusklip.com.

Celebrating 20 years of generous hospitality and fabulous food, it’s no wonder guests keep returning to this beautifully restored Victorian farmhouse on a wheat and sheep farm in the 4000-hectare Elandsberg Private Nature Reserve. It’s a wonderful space to relax in, although there’s plenty to do from nature drives to hiking and biking, plus there are wine and olive oil producers in picturesque locations nearby. Twins Lesley (front of house) and Louise Gillett (head chef) manage the place with a team of excellent staff.

23. Chocolate Box, Gordon’s Bay

Cost: From R2365 a room B&B.
Contact: www.chocolateboxgb.co.za.

You don’t need a sweet tooth to stay at experienced and hospitable boutique-hotel owner Olaf Dambrowski’s quaintly named property, with its wonderful sea and mountain views from its elevated location. Just as you’d choose your favourite chocolate from the box, return guests have their favourite room here, all of which are colourful and individually decorated. For those who want to get out and about, there are scenic drives with views across False Bay, lovely walks on nearby Blue Flag Bikini Beach and some superb Helderberg wine estates and restaurants on its doorstep.

24. Chartfield Guesthouse, Kalk Bay

Cost: From R900 per room.
Contact: www.chartfield.co.za.

You couldn’t wish for a more pleasant and convenient base in Kalk Bay, a quaint fishing village on the Cape Peninsula overlooking False Bay. Set on the mountain, with the pretty harbour below, Chartfield is within walking distance of the buzz of Main Road where you have a fabulous choice of shops and places to eat. And this is the great thing about staying here – you can park your car and not get back into it until you leave. The owners are South African and Swiss, so expect excellent service, warmth and attention to detail. Don’t miss the breakfasts, which are delicious. The best rooms overlook the sea or the mountain behind.

25. Dunstone Country Estate, Wellington

Cost: From R1125 per person B&B.
Contact: www.dunstone.co.za.

The warm owners of this boutique wine estate are a part of what makes this escape special. Guests are encouraged to visit the winery and participate in activities in the picturesque Bovlei Valley above Wellington. Dunstone has transformed its charming rooms and cottages and added a bistro restaurant, The Stone Kitchen. It’s perfect for couples and families as there’s lots to do close by, as well as beautiful landscaped gardens on site, vineyards and guava orchards. A real winner this, with many thoughtful touches, and convenient, too, for those who want to explore nearby Bain’s Kloof.

26. Val du Charron, Wellington

Cost: From R2260 per room B&B.
Contact: www.vdcwines.co.za.

This is a wonderful little country hotel, stylish but with a homely feel – the warm staff and resident Great Danes and a Jack Russell make it that way. One of the best things about it is its location. From here you can mountain bike, run and cycle in gorgeous surroundings, go horse riding on the neighbouring farm or take a cellar tour with VDC’s own winemaker. It’s the perfect winter destination too – you could simply stay indoors and stare at that gorgeous view, eat the good food and drink the excellent wines. The bedroom decor is classic white and kept simple: wood, great linens and coir carpets – simple, and with great quality.

27. Tintswalo Antlantic, Cape Town

Cost: From R5390 per person B&B.
Contact: www.tintswalo.com.

Every winter, hotels around the country drop their prices to put bums in beds. Tintswalo is one of them.

Staying here is a completely unique experience for even the most seasoned traveller. Set in a beautiful enclave at the foot of Chapman’s Peak, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, each individually decorated suite is a private paradise for celebrating a special occasion – and seeing the Cape Peninsula in a whole new way. This is thanks to its remarkable location at the mouth of Hout Bay’s harbour, an incredible vantage point with no development on either side. In winter, the waves come rolling in, but each room has a fireplace so it could not be cosier. You won’t forget a visit to this special spot.

28. The Tulbagh, Tulbagh

Cost: From R1300 per room B&B.
Contact: www.tulbaghhotel.co.za.

In this small historic town in the Witzenberg Valley, you’ll be delighted to find a unique boutique heritage hotel made up of several beautifully restored buildings with contemporary-style luxurious rooms. The hotel is within easy walking distance of art galleries and museums and the town’s Church Street, famous for having the oldest church in South Africa and the largest number of heritage properties in a single street. There is a bistro and lounge bar, the Olive Terrace, and in winter the hotel lights its wood-burning fires.

29. Belvidere Manor Hotel, Knysna

Cost: From R1040 per person B&B.
Contact: www.belvidere.co.za.

Belvidere is a well-established owner-managed property set in verdant gardens leading down to the Knysna Lagoon. It’s something of a haven, but is close enough to the town’s action should you want it. The Bell, its convivial pub and restaurant, is much loved by locals and visiting guests who’re ‘in the know’. Sue and Mike Mills and their team are welcoming hosts, and the accommodation is comfortable, suited for couples and families. It’s a great favourite with a loyal clientele, people who return year after year for the great service, good food and pretty surroundings.

30. Akasha Mountain Retreat, Heidelberg

Cost: From R525 per person when the whole is rented (sleeps eight).
Contact: www.akasharetreat.co.za.

Akasha Mountain Retreat has one of the most bucolic settings in the Western Cape: snuggled into the side of a valley, looking down at the wending Duiwenhoks Dam, with panoramic views of the Langeberg mountains. The glorious setting is optimised through every room in the house, which has been furnished in Moroccan-style by the owners. Rough-hewn painted doors and embellished lanterns hanging on delicate chains are some of the aesthetic details; ample two-prong plugs and Bluetooth music speakers are some of the practical ones. Boosmansbos Wilderness Area, with its rare indigenous forest, spans the mountain across the river, and the (almost) 200 bird species found there also frequent the fynbos around Akasha. The main house has three bedrooms (plus one kids’ bunk), and there’s a separate fourth room about 20 metres away that sleeps two (they’re rented as a unit). Best to take this if privacy is a concern, though.

31. Vineyard Country House, Montagu

Cost: From R650 per person B&B.
Contact: www.thevineyardcountryhouse.co.za.

When respite from the world is needed, this is the place to choose. Montagu is a lovely town. It’s surrounded by mountains, which gives the effect of it being protected. You can pretty much walk anywhere, everything’s so close. The Vineyard Country House is set off the main road (so you can hear some traffic) and in a vineyard. It offers five rooms, each as lovely as the next. The style is that of a classy home – good linens, comfy couches, chairs and loungers. The owners live on site, but separate, and both are foodies, so breakfasts are a treat (book a dinner too, while you’re there). Our favourite room is number five, which has a reed ceiling and no television, only music. If you’re going to (re)treat yourself over winter, this is the one to book.

32. Leisure Isle Lodge, Knysna

Cost: From R1370 per person B&B.
Contact: www.leisureislelodge.co.za.

Knysna has some very peaceful places to stay surrounded by exquisite landscape but within minutes from the busy CBD. Leisure Isle Lodge is one of them. Situated on Bollard Bay near Knysna’s landmark Heads, it has beautiful lagoon and garden-facing rooms. The combination of this serene setting and top-notch accommodation makes this a Garden Route fixture. There’s also a spa for pampering and fine dining at Daniela’s Restaurant, which overlooks the water and is a great place to watch the sun setting.

What happens when you have the All-New Land Rover Discovery at your disposal? You take it camping. Off-road.

The new Land Rover Discovery 3,0 TDV6 HSE Luxury is a whole lot of car. It’s so technologically advanced I was a little scared to push any buttons in case one of them was the ejector seat. That said, there are a lot of buttons that do amazing things, like turn on the built-in seat massager.

Nothing like a bit of relaxation to kick off a weekend getaway.

Setting off on a weekend adventure in the All-New Land Rover Discovery.

The enormous boot has ample luggage space and the easy-to-operate offroad capability (again, it’s just a matter of pushing buttons) made camping the goal. Somewhere close, yet remote.

We piled camping gear into the car, popped some cool drinks into the small console fridge between the front seats (yup, this car has one of those too) and set off on an adventure.

This is the route we did, from Cape Town to Tulbagh across to Bo-Piketberg and back via Hopefield.

Friday

Camp in Tulbagh

This 4X4 track leads into ominous-looking mountains, where a great campsite awaits.

Tulbagh is an easy drive from Cape Town. The 120-kilometre route is the perfect amount of time to settle in and get into a good road trip groove. After the quaint town of Tulbagh, we drove a couple more kays to the foot of the Winterhoek Mountains.

Past farmland, an abundance of fynbos and proteas the track to our campsite for the night proved a good testing ground for the new Land Rover. At R1314000 this is pricey car and I felt a little precious about it creeping up the rock-strewn mountain, but the Land Rover certainly proved itself.

This photo does the 4X4 track little justice, but the capable car easily crawled over the terrain and there were great views to enjoy along the way.

And you can’t deny, it’s a pretty good looking car! Eventually, we arrived at Secret Falls, a lush campsite in prime mountain location with incredible views over the farmlands of Tulbagh. The campsite is the perfect setting for a weekend retreat.

There are hot showers and each camp site has its own tap with a hose pipe, which is really thoughtful. Prepare beforehand though. You need to remove your own rubbish, so pack dustbin bags and supply your own firewood – the Spar in town sold it for around R15 a bag.

Great facilities and epic views at Secret Falls.

The night was quiet, although cold so pack some extra blankets. After rustling up some coffee, we jumped straight back into the car and switched on the seat warmers.

Do it: R140 per person and R80 each for children, dogs and trailers.

Saturday

Cruise up a winding mountain pass

There’s plenty of boot space in the All-New Land Rover. I really liked the flip-out tailgate so you can better organise all the gear and the boot is electric so you just push a button and it opens.

Once the sun was up it was time to tackle the 4X4 road again, but this time heading downhill back into Tulbagh. Then around the back of the Winterhoek Mountains and on towards Piketberg.

From the hillside-town (draw cash here) it’s an easy, if very winding climb up Versveld Pass. Up here, the mountain air is cooler, the views are better and various crops flourish. It’s called Piketberg-Bo-berg and is home to farms with apples, pears, persimmons, plums and peaches, which you can spot from the road. Even pink almond blossoms bloom up here.

Do it: The 105-kilometre drive takes about an hour and a half, without stops.

Hit the farmers market

A farmers’ market is held every last Saturday of the month at Kruistementvlei in the Piket-Bo-Berg. It’s a local institution and gives both visitors and farmers the opportunity to buy or sell their goods and share in genuine country hospitality.

You’ll find everything from pancakes, fresh flowers, olives, almonds, vegetables, bread and jam, to crafts and plants for sale. Music is generally provided by a live local band too.

Do it: The Piket-Bo-Berg Farmer’s Market is free to visit and open from about 9:00 on the last Saturday of the month. The next one will be on 28 October 2017.

Find the secret gravel road

The good farmers at Kruistementvlei let us in on a sneaky back road secret. So we steered the Land Rover towards Hopefield via Goedverwacht and joined the R399 that heads out towards the West Coast. The gravel road was easy and sprinkled with excellent views. The Landy performed perfectly in this terrain – even the cornering was smooth going around the tight mountain bends and the tar arrived far too quickly.

Do it: Head back toward Piketberg from Kruistementvlei Farm in Piket-Bo-Berg. Keep an eye out for the gravel turn after about two kilometres, the road looks as though it’s turns off onto a private farm, but it’s not. You can even use Google Maps to find it.

Explore a little village

Hopefield is a delightful village. Said to be the oldest Cape West Coat town it’s surrounded by fynbos, daisies, yellow canola fields in summer and green wheat in winter. It not on the major tourist routes, like Darling and Paternoster are, but it’s absolutely worth a stop. Especially on Saturdays, when the farmers market is open. You’ll find cheese, incredible baked goods, samoosas, marmalades, fresh veggies and more.

Once fully stocked up, tuck into lunch next door at Hello. cafe. The homemade babotie pie is divine and affordable at R45, plus you can even get some frozen ones to eat back at home.

Do it: The drive to Hopefield via Goedverwacht takes an hour and a half. Little on the menu at Hello. cafe is over R50 and the farmers market is right next door. Both venues are on Church Street opposite the big white church in the centre of town. You can’t miss it.

Stay over

We drove home after hitting these farmers markets on Saturday (Cape Town is another hour and half from Hopefield), but you can continue the weekend escape. Stay on the West Coast. Paternoster is just half an hour away, we know 22 lovely spots in Paternoster for a summer break.

Click here to read our Breede River Valley road trip story.

By listening to suggestions for once, our columnist has an Amsterdam adventure like no other.

Tired of tourist spots, Darrel Bristow-Bovey goes adrift in Amsterdam. Photo by VV Nincic.

I was in Amsterdam in April and the leaves were on the trees and colour was slowly welling in the canals, but I was unexpectedly at a loss. I had the early stages of flu, my energy was low and my curiosity was waning. I didn’t feel like Van Gogh or Anne Frank or sex shows or smoking weed. I didn’t know what to do.

I found a travel guide in a magazine, one of those authoritative listicles that I always half-suspect have been made up by mutinous interns stuck in an office. ‘10 Unusual Things to Do in Amsterdam,’ it said. ‘Number 1: Check out the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky.’

I walked down the canals to the Damrak in the centre of town and found the Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. It was big, but what made it grand? The lobby looked like the concourse of a Soviet train station, one where the trains have stopped running but passengers still sit with their luggage and wait. The floors were tiled like some giant bathroom. I walked through, wondering what exactly I should be checking out. There was a dismal convention in a conference room; there was a restaurant called Asparagus. Did they serve only asparagus? Is that what’s interesting about this place? I looked on the menu. They didn’t serve asparagus.

‘Number 2: Visit Boekie Woekie, Amsterdam’s hidden gem of a bookshop.’ Boekie Woekie, eh? I took a meandering path up the Grachtengordel and paused for a beer, leaning on the railing over the Heerengracht. I saw a man cycling past in traffic with a small boy standing on his shoulders; no one in Amsterdam wears helmets. I finally found Boekie Woekie on one of those streets linking the Prinsengracht and Keizersgracht.

It was a sort of art-inflected stationery shop. There were sketch pads and pencils and coffee-table art books. I scratched my head, wondering what made this a hidden gem. The proprietor didn’t seem curious about this strange man standing in her shop, looking around as if searching for clues on a treasure hunt. We had a brief conversation about Bram Fischer and she offered me a piece of fudge from a porcelain bowl shaped like a sheep.

‘Number 3: Take a stroll along the scenic Amstel River. Start behind the train station.’ I walked through the station and found a body of water and started strolling. It wasn’t that scenic, and it also wasn’t the Amstel River; it was the Ij. By now I had realised that my guide to Amsterdam had been written by a psychopath or someone with a sense of humour very much like mine. I wandered up the Ij and found the Consertgebouw on the water and looked around inside while the staff smiled benignly. I crossed a drawbridge and drank a beer at a bar where 200 years ago sailors could pay with live monkeys brought back from Africa or the Indies.

In a cafe I played backgammon with a white-bearded man with a cockatoo on his shoulder; I found a pink balloon in the street and carried it for a while, then gave it to a child; I chatted with someone who said she used to be a call girl. I told her about my travel guide and she told her friends and we all laughed together. The barman gave us all free jenever.

I would like to find whoever wrote that guide to Amsterdam and shake them by the hand. Books and magazines aren’t there to tell us what to do; they’re there to inspire us to go outside.

See more in October issue of Getaway magazine.

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The best guide to weekending in Golden Gate; how to go shark diving (without a cage); exploring the high peaks of the Rwenzoris and heritage homestays with delicious food in Kerala.

Whether you want to take the best close-up shots ever or the secret to taking great photos in bad weather, these are the only pro photography tips you need to upgrade your travel photography.

1. How to nail close-up shots

Master the art of zooming in with these tips, using this outstanding image by Scott Weintraub.

Scott says: My family and I visited Cleveland Metroparks Zoo in the US state of Ohio, where I noticed this vibrant flamingo. As soon as it hid its beak in its plumage, I knew that I had a great opportunity for an interesting shot. Getting perfect focus and even lighting across your subject is a challenge with any close-up image. I focused on the flamingo’s eye, getting it sharp with any blur falling on its feathers and turning them soft, and ended up with the best photo I’ve ever taken. Scott used: Nikon D5100, Nikkor 55-200mm f/4-5.6. Settings: ISO 320, f/5.6, 1/400 sec.

Equipment

DSLR: Focal lengths upwards of 200mm are most effective. For the best image quality, do as much of your zooming in-camera as possible and leave cropping for later.

Compact cameras: Look out for super-zoom capabilities such as those of the Canon SX720 with its 40x optical zoom. R4295, orms.co.za.

Settings

Choosing the right setting on your camera allows you to get very ‘close’ to an animal. Show off details in its skin texture, colour or feathers with a narrow aperture (around f/8). Compensate for light loss with a higher ISO (400 and up).

The practical stuff

Before you shoot, switch your camera setting to maximum file size. This will give you the highest resolution possible, resulting in a better-quality image if you need to crop in post-production.
Get close to your subject. Animals in parks, zoos and rehabilitation centres are good to practise on as they are usually desensitized to human presence. For animals in the wild, a telephoto zoom lens will get you just as ‘close’.
Fill the frame with just the subject. For maximum impact, zoom in to exclude negative space and distracting background elements. Turn on your grid overlay. Then place points of interest on intersecting lines. Composition is crucial for close-ups.
The reciprocal rule comes into play here. Prevent camera shake by using a shutter speed greater than your focal length. For example, if you’re zooming in with 400mm, your shutter speed should be faster than 1/400 sec.

Top tips

Starter tip: Dabble in the abstract. Play with textures and colours that the viewer normally wouldn’t notice.
Amateur tip: You don’t need the entire scene to show what an animal is doing – challenge yourself to include all the storyline elements in as small a frame as possible.
Pro tip: Take abstract further by including one recognizable element (such as the flamingo’s eye in Scott’s image). This gives the viewer a feeling of discovery – an aha moment when the subject is understood.

2. How to control your depth of field

Controlling your depth of field is a crucial component of photography. Simply put, depth of field is the area of acceptable sharpness in an image. A deeper field renders more of your image sharp while a shallower field gives you a narrower focus area. This is controlled by the opening through which light rays enter your camera before refracting and converging onto the sensor, onto what is known as a ‘circle of confusion’ (standard lenses can’t converge light to a perfect point).

Small apertures (such as f/22) create smaller circles of confusion, making more objects on different planes in your image acceptably sharp. Larger apertures (such as f/4), create bigger circles, which appear as out of focus blur spots.

How to use it? Switch the setting to aperture priority mode and focus on your subject. Use a wide aperture to draw attention to and isolate your subject, and a narrow aperture to showcase a whole scene equally, such as a landscape.

3. How to make mountain magic

Taking epic shots of grand scenes is a challenge. Make the most of an enormous environment, using this image by Carl Smorenburg as an example.

Carl says: This is the head of the Rockeries Pass, a four- kilometre road with a 1000-metre descent into the Ntonjelana Valley. To show scale in a vast area such as the Drakensberg, I’ll ask people to stand in a certain spot. January to March has dramatic weather with afternoon storms, while August to September are the best months to get snow shots. The weather changes fast – be safe and always take a guide. Carl used: Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 16-35mm f/2.8 L. Settings: ISO 100, f/11, 1/500 sec.

Getting to the best location is the first step; often this means tackling a multi-day hike. Here’s what gear to pack, and some tips on how to capture the full effect of your next trek.

Equipment

Keeping your backpack light is a necessity on multi-day hikes. Invest in a carbon-fibre or lightweight-aluminium tripod.

Settings

Landscape images need detail. Set your mode to Manual or Aperture Priority and a narrow aperture (f/8 to f/16). Use a low ISO (100 to 400) and adjust your shutter speed to get a balanced exposure.

The practical stuff

Find an original angle in the scene in front of you. Go off the beaten track to look for your own spots and create a unique perspective of an iconic scene.
Include a foreground element, such as a rock outcrop or a person standing on a ledge, to give the landscape a sense of scale and story and to make it easier for viewers to imagine themselves being there. Keep your foreground a third or less of your image to prevent it from distracting from your scene.
Use panoramas to capture the full spread of mountains. For seamlessly stitched panoramas, use a focal length of between 24mm and 50mm (prime lenses work well) and overlap each image by a third when you pan from side to side.
Be ready for light that best shows off the landscape. Sunrises and sunsets throw craggy faces into relief and give the landscape texture. Adverse weather such as clouds, mist and the aftermath of storms make for more dramatic photo opportunities.

Top tips

Starter tip: Use a polarising filter to cut through glare and increase colour saturation.
Amateur tip: Scout your shots ahead of time by using Google Earth and an app called The Photographer’s Ephemeris. It’s available on iOS and Android for R140, but the desktop version is free.
Pro tip: Try your hand at HDR. Take three to five images of an identical scene, from under-exposed to over-exposed. Merge these into one final image using automated software (Lightroom and Photoshop have this feature). For best results, learn how to manually blend exposures using luminosity masks.

Also read: 8 of the best Drakensberg hikes recommended by experts.

4. How to use luminosity masks

A manual HDR created by Mark Dumbleton using Luminosity Masks.

What are luminosity masks and how would you use them? Cameras are capable of capturing limited dynamic ranges – the difference between the lightest and darkest areas in a photo. Taking multiple exposures of the same scene and combining them into a final image with a high dynamic range (HDR) is one way of capturing detail in shadows, midtones and highlights. You can create HDR images by using luminosity masks.

Luminosity masks are layers that enable you to isolate specific luminosity (brightness) ranges in an image. Stack two or more images with different exposures in Photoshop. Then use the masks to select what parts of the images you want to reveal or hide. For more (and to see what images look like before and after masks are applied), see Jimmy McIntyre’s tutorial.

Also read: a more detailed guide to creating beautiful HDR images.

5. How to take good pictures in bad weather

Capture the full force of furious waves with these tips, using Rob Tarr’s incredible photo of Kalk Bay lighthouse.

Rob says: There was lousy weather and big waves on this winter’s day in Kalk Bay. When I saw two men standing on the edge of the pier watching the waves up close, I knew it would be worth trying for a photograph. My weather-sealed equipment had to get wet and I removed rain droplets with a micro fibre cloth. The vision I had was to get both lighthouses on the left, as well as a suitable length of wall, and to try a slow shutter speed to soften the image. For this, a tripod was essential. Rob used: Canon 5D Mark III, Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II. Settings: ISO 100, f/16, 1/8 sec.

Certain weather conditions bring in bigger swells. Be ready to shoot in these conditions: when offshore winds pick up sea spray dramatically; or it’s high tide, which brings in maximum wave sizes; there’s a combination of a full moon and a storm; and during heavy cloud cover to make a good contrast with wave shapes.

Equipment

Use a telephoto lens (70-300mm) to zoom in on waves from a safe distance. Time the wave impact by using a shutter-release cable, triggering your camera while watching the scene. Shield your camera from sea spray by using a cover such as the Op/Tech Rainsleeve USA for R250 (pack of two). Keep microfibre cloths handy to gently wipe the spray off your lens. In light sea-spray conditions, make your own rainsleeve from a ziplock bag. Secure the open end around your lens using thick elastic bands.

Settings

To freeze the splash of waves, set your shutter speed to 1/500 or more (crank up your ISO to compensate). Use a narrow aperture (f/8-f/16) to get detail throughout the frame.

The practical stuff

Be safe by spending time watching the ocean to work out the wave pattern before you shoot. Set up behind the high-water mark and ask a buddy to be on the look out for rogue waves.
Get eye level with the waves to accentuate their height. Capture their curves by shooting parallel to the shoreline from a pier.
Include a subject such as a lighthouse, pier, seagull or person to give a sense of scale and increase the drama in your image.

Top tips

Starter tip: Imagine how far the wave’s splash will go and leave enough room in your image for it to travel into it without crowding the edge of your frame.
Amateur tip: Make use of lens compression, explained next. Zoom in using a super telephoto lens (300-800mm) to magnify the size of the waves. You can rent a Sigma 150-500mm (R200 per day) or Nikon 200-400mm f/4 (R350 per day) from lensrental.co.za.
Pro tip: Use a tripod and slow down your shutter speed to creatively highlight the water’s movement, as in Rob’s image. Use 1/50 sec or less to blur water slightly, but not enough to make the water’s movement disappear altogether.

How to make the most of lens compression

There’s a famous scene in the movie Tinker Tailor Soldier Spy of two men talking on a runway while an aeroplane lands ‘just’ behind them. The shot was taken with a whopping 2000mm focal length to compress the foreground and background.

The optical illusion has to do with the distance from your lens to subject. By zooming in on your subject using a super telephoto lens, background elements appear somewhat blurred, closer and larger in relation to the subject.

It’s also a good technique for isolating your subject and getting rid of distracting background elements.

So how to use it? Physically move away from your subject and then zoom in to the scene. The foreground and background will appear closer together and background detail will be less distinct.

Rules aren’t meant to be broken. Laws and rules are created to protect us and should be respected – but then there are these bizarre laws.

These strange laws from around the world will make you chuckle, but they still need to be adhered to when travelling there.

1. Flushing the toilet after 22:00, Switzerland

Some Swiss aren’t aware of this law, but it’s said to be at the discretion of the landlord. Personally, I find this law extremely selfish, especially for those of us with weak bladders. This country also has some other eyebrow-raising laws: you can’t hang your laundry outside, mow your lawn on a Sunday (this one I can understand – nobody enjoys excessive noise) and washing your car on a Sunday is prohibited. Just stay at home, read a book and keep your doors closed on a Sunday.

Bern, Switzerland from a different view. Image by Camelia Twu.

2. Smoking in public, Singapore

Singapore is generally very clean without a single cigarette bud on the ground – now I know why. Smoking in Singapore was first banned in enclosed and air-conditioned areas in the late 1970s. If found smoking in Singapore, you could be charged 200 Singapore Dollars. The smoking restrictions are an attempt to not only keep the city clean, but also prevent harm done to citizens by inhaling second-hand smoke.

China Town in Singapore. Image by Khanh Hmoog.

3. Stepping on a Thai Baht, Thailand

If you see money on the floor, you don’t just walk past it right? Well I certainly wouldn’t. The reason you can’t step on a Thai Baht is because the King’s face is imprinted on the notes and engraved on the coins. It’s highly disrespectful to step on the King’s face and doing so would lead to an arrest.

The famous James Bond Island in Khao Phing Kan. Image by Lutz.

4. Feeding a pigeon, San Fransisco

Feeding pigeons is illegal here for health reasons. Pigeons are considered rats with wings in San Francisco, because they carry germs and diseases. The pigeons are also responsible for making the public spaces look filthy.  A fine of between $5 to $300 is charged if caught disobeying the law.

The Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. Image by Stefan Unger.

5. Peeing in the sea, Portugal and Spain

You simply cannot urinate publicly. How will they know if you do? Beats me. Here are some other odd beach laws in some parts of Portugal and Spain: games that involve a ball are prohibited and building sandcastles is not allowed either. Whoever came up with these rules sounds like someone robbed of a childhood. To top it off, if your beach equipment (like a chair) is rusty, the beach inspectors could also ask you to leave.

Beautiful Porto. Image by Francisco Oliveira.

6. Running out of petrol, Germany

Parking your car with an empty tank on the highway in Germany could result in a fine of between 30 and 70 euros. However, stopping on the highway because of a breakdown won’t result in any punishment though. The reason? An empty tank is human error and can be avoided, but a breakdown can’t be foreseen. Do yourselves a favour and just use the bus or a train.

The highway from Thuringia Forest to Bavaria. Image from Linda.

7. Unmarried women sky diving on a Sunday, Florida

What does sky diving, single ladies and Sunday have in common? Absolutely nothing! However, in Florida it’s just not allowed. Rather sexist, wouldn’t you say? What about single men?

Naples Botanical Gardens in Florida. Image by Andrew Scholtz.

8. Driving without headlights, Sweden

In Sweden, having your headlights on is a must at all times. In winter, you also have to change your tyres for the slippery snow. When you know better, you do better.

Södermalm, an island south of Stockholm in Sweden. Image by Jonathan.

9. No jogging, Burundi

Jogging in Burundi is classified as a crime. Jogging was banned in March 2014, after the President Pierre Nkurunziza said people used the activity as a cover to plan suspicious activities. This ‘high-risk’ activity can result in life imprisonment.

The President of Burundi was a former sports educator. Image by Karin Wollgarten.

10. Chewing gum on the Gautrain, South Africa

Let’s bring it a little bit closer to home. Eating, drinking and gum-chewing are not allowed on the Gautrain (the transit railway in Johannesburg). The aim here is to maintain the high standards and the reputation of the train. There are more rules to adhere to when using the Gautrain, read them here.

The City of Gold. Image by Paul Saad.

11. Medicine including asthma pumps, Japan

There are strict rules around medicine in Japan. A person coming into Japan with any kind of medicine has to apply for a permit or certificate. Alternatively, you may be asked to declare the medicine at customs.

Tranquility in Kyoto Japan. Image by Trevor Dobson.

12. Both hands on the steering wheel, Spain

When you did your K53, you were told to never remove your hands from the steering wheel. Same thing applies in Spain. It’s a must that you keep both hands on the steering wheel – and your ears should be visible at all times too. You just let out a ‘huh’ didn’t you? I did too.

A bird’s eye view of Toledo, Spain. Image by Camila Twu.

13. Wearing heels in ancient buildings, Greece

Women are barred from wearing heels at archaeological sites to prevent the damage of the monuments. In Greece, the Acroplis Museum has banned food, drinks and heels because visitors would leave marks on the monuments.

A destination of architecture. Image by Jaafar Alnasser.

14. Singing the national anthem incorrectly in public, Mexico

The Mexican anthem is to be taken seriously. Whoever commits improper use of the national anthems will be found guilty and charged with a fine.

Landscape of Mexico. Image by Nick Kenrick.

15. The ‘Hitler salute’ in public, Germany

The German dictator Adolf Hitler would introduce or end off his speeches with the Nazi salute. This gesture carries up to three years in prison. Do yourself a favour and keep your arms to yourself in Germany and avoid unnecessary drama.

The Brandenburg Gate in Berlin. Image by Achim Fischer.

16. Black cars, Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan in central Asia banned all black cars. The president believes that the colour black brings bad luck, so naturally nobody can drive a black car. The president does however, love the colour white and his entourage only drives white vehicles. There are more odd vehicle-related no-go’s in Turkmenistan. The car can’t be older than five years, no right-hand drive allowed, no sports cars, no engines bigger than three and a half litres and no tinted windows either.

The Hajji Gurbanguly Mosque in Turkmenistan. Image by David Stanley.

Do you know of any unusual laws from around the world? Comment below and tell us about them.

Plettenberg Bay has been especially blessed, with coastline, forest, river, and farmland creating a delightful playground for all ages.

Words by Emma Jordan and photographs by Vanessa Brewer.

The Insider: Emma Jordan has been living in Plett for three years, where she is slowly acclimatising to small-town life. Sometimes she misses the bright lights of the big city, but most days she likes driving through town waving at everyone she knows.

Built on the site of a former whaling station, Beacon Island Resort is a Plett landmark.

We were never ‘Plett People’. It’s not where we went for Easter or Christmas holidays, and I can barely remember the first time I visited – back then it was called Matric Holiday and as a group of girls, free of our parents for the first time, we spent most of our time in bikinis, or foraging for food, or sleeping off the night before that was spent at Plett’s legendary nightclub, The Cave.

Almost 20 years later I decided to pack up my Joburg life and relocate, moving from a flat in Killarney to a small cottage on a farm with sweeping views of the Keurbooms River. There is no shortage of farms around Plett. From smallholdings to sweeping estates, there are tracts of land that are worked for lucerne, rooibos tea or timber. There are polo estates and now, around the Redford Lane area east of Plett, 14 or so wine farms. There’s even a fish farmer.

To most South Africans, Plettenberg Bay is seen as a millionaires’ playground. And rightly so. Each December the homes of the wealthy, otherwise empty throughout the year, are opened up and crews of butlers and chefs are brought in. The owners, along with friends and family, spend their time off sampling the best of Plett.

On the surface, Plett may appear fancy but at heart it’s really a nature- and adventure-lover’s paradise. Not only are there dozens of easily accessible walks (the Harkerville Forest to the west of town provides much-needed shade on hot days), but there are various MTB tracks, along with the paddling, kayaking and swimming offered by the fortunate geographical intersection of river, lagoon and sea. The warm Indian Ocean laps against beautiful Blue Flag beaches– early morning runs take place on the eight-kilometre stretch of Robberg Beach, and lazy afternoon walks are taken on Lookout Beach, before or after a meal at The Lookout Deck, a no-fuss diner that serves good fish and chips and cold beer.

The Lookout Deck sitting pretty at the Blue Flag Lookout Beach.

Across from Lookout, the Poortjies Lagoon is the perfect spot for stand-up paddling – and for picnics with small children, as it’s well protected and the lapping water (as opposed to big waves) means easy crab-hunting or fish-stalking. Boats are kept here or at the marina at the Plett Yacht Club. No boat? No worries. Little put-put boats, which accommodate four to five adults easily, can be hired for about R800 a day.

In my opinion, the best day to do this is when it’s not too sunny and the Keurbooms River isn’t teeming with speedboats and waterskiers. Pack some padkos and chug up the river, stopping at one of the furthest little river beaches (they all have public loos), where you can swim for hours in the soft tannin-infused water.

A few kilometres up the N2 highway is Nature’s Valley – or Nature’s as we affectionately call it. There’s a small cafe at the end of the road, and a pizza/burger joint, but that’s it. No Woolies, no Pick n Pay, only white stretches of idyllic (Blue Flag) beach. It’s very simple and that’s part of the charm. Here, canoes can be hired by the hour and it’s a real joy to pack a light picnic and paddle down the Nature’s Lagoon once you’ve already cunningly driven around and set up camp (trust me, no one’s after your umbrella here).

One of the best spots to stay is also one of the cheapest – the Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park has ultimate beach frontage.

The lagoon is also close to the end of the Otter Trail, and many hours can be spent here kicking about and having fun against one of South Africa’s most beautiful backdrops.

Out of season, Plett is a small community. The population shrinks from 130000 to 30000, but unlike many other small seaside towns in South Africa, it’s not just pensioners who live here out of season. New schools mean more and more young families have moved into the area, choosing a ‘lifestyle’ over the fast-paced, adrenaline-driven work schedules of Joburg or the mounting traffic of Cape Town. There’s only one traffic light in town, no beggars, access to local wholesome produce is immediate, and the ability to be free and wild in nature couldn’t be easier. The Plett Facebook community group explodes when law enforcement starts fining dog owners who let their hounds run freely without a lead on the beach. Everyone weighs in.

Fun on the pump track at Cairnbrogie.

Most importantly, the community is tight. Recently, wild fires raged through the valleys surrounding town, burning through hundreds of hectares of fynbos, wiping out homes and outbuildings. One of the houses belonged to the daughter of the local doctor. Within hours of the news spreading, offers of help started pouring in. A friend set up a crowd-funding account to help with the rebuild; moms stopped her in the school car park, with clothes, gifts and toys for her kids.

It’s not the most sophisticated town for dining or culture, and geographically it’s impossibly segregated, but Plett Tourism is working very hard to change this – to involve the entire community in crossover events. Recently, I attended an NGO initiative at the Kwanokathula New School. A social worker told me that a number of people in her community had moved to Plett from Cape Town or PE as their kids were getting involved with disreputable types. ‘The parents wanted more for their kids,’ she told me. ‘They wanted the quiet life.’ Like all Plett people.

And, yes, every December there are still groups of girls in bikinis who flock here minus the shackles of parental care. But things are far more organised, with a ‘Rage’ village set up on the outskirts of town. Long gone are the ramshackle days of The Cave.

Sundowners against a spectacular backdrop of Emily Moon.

Where do locals go?

Connie van Willen, teacher
‘I love taking my family for walks in Kranshoek. It’s so beautiful – it has the sea, rocks and forest and is always quiet. Not many people know about it.’

Leigh Gips, Marketing and PR Executive
‘I love Nature’s Valley. The beach is so beautiful and quiet, so natural and raw, and the Salt River walk is my best.’

Sam Duncan, Software Engineer
‘My favourite is being on a boat on the lagoon at sunset, when the water mirrors the sky and everything is still. It’s very special.’

Freedom Ngqokoto, barista at Le Fournilde Plett bakery
‘On my days off I go to Moby Dick’s on Central Beach for cocktails – the mojitos are my favourite.’

Plan your trip

Get there there

Plett is six hours from Cape Town on the N2, or two-and-a-half hours from Port Elizabeth. George Airport is 94km away. CemAir flies daily direct to the small Plett Airport from Cape Town, Johannesburg and Margate. From R2900 return.

Stay here

Katuri Cottage is stuck away at the end of Askop Road, deep in The Crags (en route to Nature’s Valley), on Brackenburn Reserve. It’s a quiet self-catering bolthole surrounded by virgin Tsitsikamma forest that delivers deep soul solace. From R1300 for two (sleeps six). brackenburn.co.za

Periwinkle Guest Lodge is located at the top of Beachy Head Drive, just behind Robberg 5 beach. All seven rooms are sea-facing, and three have a fireplace. From R1200 per person sharing B&B.

Keurbooms Lagoon Caravan Park is one of SA’s best. Come out of season and grab a spot on the beach. You’ll be lulled to sleep by the sound of the sea and be perfectly placed to catch glorious sunrises. The ablutions are clean and plenty, and there’s a top-notch kids’ play area. From R120 per person, kids R60.

Beacon Island Resort is a Plett icon, built in the 1970s on the beachfront and standing proud ever since. Part timeshare, part bed per night, it’s an all-around resort with a beautiful pool on the rocks and great facilities for families with kids. From R995 per person. tsogosun.com

Do this

Learn to SUP with Garth Ensley on the Poortjies Lagoon – it’s easier than you think. From R200 per lesson, including gear rental. Booking essential. Tel 0712074951.

Head to Cairnbrogie, the perfect place to mess about on a bicycle, whether on a forest trail or the pump track. There’s also a small track for kids, a bike-washing station and cafe. Entry from R50 per person. Cairnbrogie also hosts fun events (such as Plett Starry Nights market and outdoor cinema in December – plus this year, ‘glamping’ under the pines).

Whale watch from June to November to see if you can spot southern right, humpback and Bryde’s whales. Eco- operator Ocean Blue Adventures has the only permit to get a little closer. From R750 per person, kids R400. All year round, dolphin trips go out to sea and around the bay following pods in the west, before heading back past the seal colony at the base of the Robberg peninsula. From R500 per person, kids R250. There is also guided sea-kayaking from R300 per person.

Learn to Stand Up Paddle on the Poortjies Lagoon

Shop here

Mungo is a proudly local business that’s a favourite with designers for its high-quality, beautiful linen and handwoven towels. Find it at Old Nick Village, a collection of artisanal shops just off the N2 on the road to Keurbooms Beach.

Natures Way Farm Stall, off the N2 en route to Nature’s Valley, is a good place to stock up for a picnic. It’s on a working farm; the cows come in for milking at around 15:00. The sandwiches, cakes and quiches (a large one costs around R85) are divine, as is the deli selection of local cheeses and salami and whatever’s growing on the surrounding farms. Tel 0445348849

Mungo is known for hand-woven textiles. Image by Vanessa Brewer

Eat here

The Lookout Deck, as the name suggests, has wonderful views. Owner Chris Stroebel is on hand running the business, the staff are on point and the food, including fish and chips, calamari baskets and burgers (about R80), is simple and good.

Emily Moon has two parts: a ‘fine dining’ experience in the main dining room and the more relaxed Simon’s Bar, where pizza (from R100) and cocktails can be enjoyed on the deck overlooking the Bitou River. Out of season there are often two-for-one specials and roaring outdoor fires to add to the ambience.

Kay and Monty Vineyards is Plett’s most recently opened wine estate. Named after owner Chick Legh’s parents, it produces a crisp Sauvignon Blanc and delightful sparkling MCC. Situated down a long dirt road (Redford Lane), the drive is worth it for the tasting barn where easy lunches (from R75) are served.

Wine and lunch in the cosy tasting room at Kay and Monty Vineyards. Image by Vanessa Brewer

This story first appeared in the June 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Check into the most desirable places in South Africa with our featured winter deals; find cool images of the Antarctic and take a wild drive over the Namib dunes in our June issue!

The increasing production of craft beer – in quality and quantity – has made it difficult for beer drinkers to decide on a drink of choice.

Attending the Thousand Sensations Craft Beer and Food Festival gave me some great insight. These are my top suggestions for both novice and advanced beer drinkers looking for that perfect easy-drinking beer.

Craft beer in South Africa

My beer tasting glass at the Thousand Sensations Craft Beer and Food Festival 2017.

The craft beer scene in South Africa has been around for some time, but it’s still gaining momentum. A variety of breweries are still opening up, reviving classics in bold and experimental ways. The market is competitive and puts South Africa as one of the leading countries on the continent pioneering craft beer.

I attended the Thousand Sensation Craft Beer and Food festival in Wildnerness Knysna a few weeks ago and had the opportunity to try an amazing variety of delicious and locally produced beer which left me confused: what beer am I to drink this summer? I’m no purist nor an advanced beer drinker either. So while at the festival, I relied on my taste as an entry level beer drinker and advice from beer lovers around me to curate a list of beers you have to try this summer.

The Thousand Sensations Craft Beer Festival started four years ago by Alewijn Dippenaar as a birthday party. He’s a beer-lover who brought other beer-lovers together and it was attended by 926 people. After this successful birthday party, Alewijn says people asked him to think seriously about turning it into an annual festival. Now, the festival attracts locals from the region and this year hosted over 43 breweries with more than 170 handcrafted beers.

10 craft beers to look out for this summer

Whether you are an advanced beer drinker or a novice these are the local beers to look out for this summer.

1. The Black Dog, Wild Clover.

I’ll start this list with Alewijn’s favourite beer, The Black Dog, a Porter produced by Wild Clover Brewery. It’s a beer infused with chocolate and coffee. At first, this beer will confound your taste buds because it tastes like fizzy coffee with a chocolate scent. It hardly drinks like a beer, at least to me, and coffee enthusiasts will find it pleasantly surprising. The coffee taste is not sharp and the fizziness of the beer smoothes it out. I also loved the subtle and delightful chocolate scent.

Visit the brewery: Taste it at Wild Clover Farm on the R304 in Stellenbosch.
Contact: Tel 0213000370, wildclover.co.za

2. The Atlantic Storm, Black Tempest.

Much like The Port by Wild Clover Brewery, this beer is also coffee-infused. This one is a stout though, which means the hint of roasted barley brings out the coffee flavour a bit more. This beer is brewed with Tribe Espresso beans and won a silver medal at the South African National Beer Trophy Awards this year.
Contact: They are in the process of setting up a brewery. Make sure to follow The Atlantic Storm on Facebook for updates on the Brewery, news on their latest products and places where you can get their beers.

3. Blonde, Sedgefield Craft Brewery.

As a real novice beer drinker, I found this Blonde the easiest and smoothest to drink. If you want to start drinking craft beer, or beer in general, this is how to start. It’s smooth and doesn’t overwhelm with bitterness – ideal for a hot day of easy drinking.
Visit the brewery: Scarab Village, off the N2 at Sedgefield (between Goerge and Knysna).
Contact: 0829014268, sedgefieldbrewery.co.za

4. The Atlantic Storm, Buccaneer.

The Atlantic Storm Brewery was popular with a few of the festival goers. They have an experimental approach that both confuses the palate and indulges it, all at once. These are the guys to look out for. The Buccaneer is infused with orange, spiced rum and vanilla.
Contact: They are in the process of setting up a brewery. Make sure to follow The Atlantic Storm on Facebook for updates on the Brewery, news on their latest products and places where you can get their beers.

5. Valve India Pale Ale, Riot.

This Pale Ale is an ideal summer drink because of its citrus and fruity taste. The fruitiness is balanced out by the classic beer bitter hop finish that’s not overwhelming. It’s smooth to drink and so refreshing. This beer won a gold medal at the South African National Beer Trophy Awards this year.

Visit the brewery: Riot Brewery pride themselves in making ‘loud beer for the thrill seeker’, make sure to visit their brewery in Woodstock, 145 Sir Lowry Road, for the Valve IPA and other beers.
Contact: 0791643798, riotbeer.co.za

6. Milk & Honey Ale, Mitchell’s Plain Breweries.

Mitchell’s Plain Breweries have been on the craft beer scene for a while and if their slogan is anything to go by, they seem to take a great deal of pride in this; ‘the craft beer that started craft beer’. I found their Honey and Milk Ale delicious and it has a distinct taste with a scent of honey, which I especially enjoyed.

Visit the brewery: To taste their Honey & Milk Ale and other craft beers, visit them at 10 New Street in Knysna.
Contact: mitchellsbrewing.com

7. Two Rand Men, Richmond Hill Brewing Co. (RHBC).

Beer enthusiast Shae Leigh – follow her Instagram account for all things beer at Hops On Hops Off – recommended this one. She says, ‘Imagine your tongue being moisturised’. This beer is delicious and so, so smooth, drinking it felt like the act salivating. This beer also a special story behind it. It was named after a homeless man who used to roam the streets in Port Elizabeth joyously singing. It’s said that regardless of how much people offered him, he only took two rands and nothing more. One day he disappeared and no one has heard of his whereabouts since and people didn’t know his name. Richmond Hill Brewing Company named the beer in his honour, Two Rand Man.
Visist the brewery:Visit the Richmond Hill Brewing Company to taste a variety of their beers at 2 Alabaster Street, Baakens Valley in Port Elizabeth.
Contact: Follow Richmond Hill Brewing Co. on Facebook, 0783965485.

8. Devil’s Peak Brewery, First Light Golden Ale

This First Light Golden Ale is another top summer drink and it’s perfect for people who aren’t advanced beer drinkers. I loved the summery, tropical taste and aroma. Devil’s Peak Brewery is also making waves in the craft beer scene and was also popular at the festival. They’re currently expanding and opening another taproom and brewery.

Devil’s Peak Brewery in Salt River has a nice restaurant where you can order a nice meal to go with the beer.

Visit the brewery: Devil’s Peak Brewery has a great brewery with a restaurant and taste room in Cape Town at 95 Durham Avenue.
Contact: 0212005818, devilspeakbrewing.co.za

9. Dragon Brewing Company, Fiery Dragon

This list, much like the festival, would’ve been incomplete for me without ginger beer! To my delight, the Dragon Brewing Company specialise in brewing ginger beer. Their Fiery Dragon is strong and delicious, the way ginger beer should be. It tastes a bit like the one my grandmother used to make growing up, except with an alcohol twist. It’s perfect served ice cold on a hot summer day or at room temperature on a cold rainy day in front of a fire. Warren Harries-Jones fermented it in his garage three years ago, launched it at markets and local beer festivals around the country.
Contact: They don’t have a brewery open for tastings, but their ginger beer is sold in over 2000 outlets. Get in touch with them through dragonbrewingco.co.za or 0620787986.

10. Everson’s Cider, Pomegranate Cider

Purists reading this are probably grudging over the addition of a cider in an article about beer. But this cider – and Everson’s Ciders in general – is so tasty and exciting, I just had to spread the word. Everson’s Cider is known for making delicious ciders from fresh apples grown in Elgin and Pomegranate Cider is their latest addition. This particular cider has an apple base and is infused with pomegranate juice. I found it a bit filling, which makes it an ideal drink if you want to enjoy easy sipping.

Visit brewery: If you’re ever in the Elgin region, visit Everson’s Cider and taste their delicious ciders. The region is known for its apples and you can find them at 2281 Essenhout Avenue, Swannie River in Grabouw.
Contact: info@eversonscider.com, eversonscider.com

Please comment below telling us what your favourite drink is this summer (for going out, a picnic,
or a braai). We’d love to know how you’re cooling down this summer.

See the biggest African Penguin colony and explore the coastal forests in this secret section of Addo Elephant National Park.

You may not know it, but Addo Elephant National Park extends right down to the ocean and currently protects some important islands in Algoa Bay, namely St Croix and Bird Island. The latter has one of the largest colonies of Cape gannets in the world, and St Croix is home to the largest breeding colony of the precious African penguin (6500 breeding pairs, at last count).

A pair of penguins stand on St Croix island, which used to be a whaling station.

Conservation Manager, John Adendorff, says, ‘To me, African Penguins are more threatened than rhino are at this stage. Because they’re not a key species or a high profile one that people really know about, or care about, penguins are on the sidelines. Their numbers have dwindled alarmingly and every ten years or so, their numbers halve. If it goes on at that rate, in the next twenty or thirty years there won’t be penguins around.’ Addo is responsible for the protection of about 50 percent of the total African Penguin population.

Sightings of dolphins are frequent close to St Croix island in Algoa Bay.

A charter boat trip gets you close to these comical creatures and there’s also a good chance of seeing dolphins in the protected waters around St Croix too (on my trip I saw a megapod of nearly 400).

I ask Lloyd Edwards, the owner of Raggy Charters about his clients. ‘Locals don’t even know that we have the largest penguin colony right here,’ he says. This strongly echoes a sentiment by Dr Tony Ribbink, head of the Sustainable Seas Trust, in our recent story on SA’s Hope Spots. ‘What’s amazing about Algoa Bay is that, according to tour operators, more people outside of Port Elizabeth know about the incredible natural riches the area has to offer than locals do.’

Well, it’s time you all knew.

Plan your marine adventure in Addo Elephant National Park

Day one: Sundays River Mouth to Matyholweni

White dunes and the blue sea at the Sundays River Mouth in Colchester about 25 minutes away from Port Elizabeth.

Spend the day between towering dunes and the sea at Sundays River Mouth. It’s popular with local fishermen, but you can also kayak along the river before it meets the sea or stroll along the beach. From the beach it’s a short drive back to Addo. You can spend an easy afternoon driving the loops in the southern section of Addo’s Main Game Area before turning in for the night. Day visitors need to pay to enter the beach at the Pearson Park Resort. From R65 for two.

Stay here: Matyholweni Camp is closest to Port Elizabeth, and it’s an easy 43km drive to get to PE harbour. Gate times (07:00 to 18:30) are not a hindrance because visitors staying at Matyholweni Camp can still exit the park before it officially opens the next day, provided they inform reception. From R1490 for two.

Day two: Matyholweni to Woody Cape

Umsintsi Cottage has gorgeous views of the forest in the Woody Cape section of Addo.

Leave early to join a Raggy Charters trip to St Croix, which usually meets at about 08:30 at the Algoa Bay Yacht Club at the harbour. The oldest marine eco-tour in Algoa Bay, Raggy Charters knows the waters intimately and is involved in important African penguin research. You can see the dunes at the Sundays River Mouth from the sea and chances are good you’ll spot dolphins. On my trip we also saw a young hammerhead shark in the water, and African black oystercatchers too. Back on land, stay for lunch at the yacht club and then head off to the Woody Cape Section of Addo (a 90-minute drive). South Africans get special rates of R850 per person for the three-hour boat trip to St Croix.

Bottlenose dolphins rest in the sheltered area around St Croix island.

From the reception at the Woody Cape Section of Addo, it’s 15-minute drive to Woody Cape Backpackers to check out the beach. Try get to here and see the Alexandria Dune field for sunset. Take your Wild Card or proof of conservation fee to get onto the beach, a short 10-minute walk away from the backpacker parking lot.

Stay here: Umsintsi Cottage is the latest place to stay in the park. It sleeps two and looks over the gorgeous Alexandria forests. It used to be a forestry lookout station. Now, the upper deck now forms the bedroom with an en-suite bathroom, while the kitchen is below. From R900 for two.

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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From our ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and getting the best of Nepal; our May issue is guaranteed to inspire.

This guide from cheeky expat, Zane Henry tells you how to have more fun by making your holiday budget go further.
Prices and conversions were correct at the time of going to print.

London is one of the best cities in the world to visit, but comes with the caveat that you probably won’t be able to afford to do much once you arrive. The pound’s supremacy has been slightly unsettled by Brexit but it’s still one of the most ruthlessly expensive cities in the world – and not just for tourists. In order to survive the debilitating, constant prospect of poverty, locals have had to devise strange and wondrous ways of enjoying what the city has to offer without dipping into their rent money. Take heart and advice from London residents themselves: make friends with us. Get us to spill our secrets. Buy us a drink. Buy us two. It’ll be worth it.

Outdoors

People may think of London as a concrete and glass cage, but almost half of the city is green space and has over eight million trees. If you get your timing right and score one of the three days of the year when it’s not raining, being outside in London is magical.

1. Ride the River Thames

Use your London Oyster travelcard to hop aboard one of the Thames Clipper riverboat taxis and enjoy views of the city from the water. It has regular deals – from free tickets for moms on Mother’s Day to discounted journeys to venues hosting big events. With stops all along the river east to west, from Woolwich to Putney, it’s a viable alternative to buses and the Tube. From £3,90 (R66) per single journey. thamesclippers.com

2. Break away from the city

Richmond Park is 35 minutes away by train from central London. This sprawling national nature reserve is home to a skittish deer population and architectural marvels such as Pembroke Lodge, royalparks.org.uk. If you’re heading here over the festive period the nearby, otherwise expensive, Kew Royal Botanic Gardens (from £14 per adult) has been known to release around 10 000 free tickets for the 12 days of Christmas. 

3. Watch the sun go down

The Southbank Centre’s Queen Elizabeth Hall Roof Garden offers the best sunsets in the city. There’ a bar, but you’ll want to avoid paying £5 (R84) for a Heineken. Stash a bottle of cheap Prosecco in a handbag, arrive before 5pm to beat the crowds of recently freed office workers, and get pleasantly drunk in the sunshine while taking in spectacular views of the Thames, Big Ben and the London Eye.

Local wisdom: Again, most of this is best attempted during spring or summer. London winter is so, so miserable.

Culture

It sometimes feels like there are almost more museums and galleries than pubs in this city. And most of them are free. The museums and galleries, not the pubs. Sigh.

4. Sip London’s iconic tea

The only thing more British than passive-aggressive queuing is tea, and nowhere is this more fervently embodied than at Twinings’ tea shop and museum, 216 Strand, one of London’s oldest remaining original teahouses. The back of the shop is given over to a gleaming museum and tasting area where you can try a number of tea combinations, free of charge. Jammie Dodgers not included.

5. Try to locate this ‘mystery’ gallery

You’ll want to hit the (free!) National Gallery and National Portrait Gallery, but London is studded with glittering hidden gems. To find the independent Greengrassi Gallery, you’ll need to walk down a quiet residential street in Kennington (Tube: Lambeth North) until you come to a black facade with no signage. It’s only one room and features only one artist at a time, allowing for a more distilled impression. Entrance is free – you just need to know it’s there. greengrassi.com

6. Own a book from this buoyant shop

Word on the Water is a floating bookshop in a 1920s Dutch barge in Camden – its narrow aisles are dense with locals and tourists in the know. It’s one of the cheapest bookstores in the city, prices start at around £3 (R50), offering new and used titles, a wood-burning stove, poetry slams, live music and cuddles from the owner’s sleepy dog, Star. Find it on Facebook.

7. Don’t miss these museum quirks

The Natural History Museum’s charms are well known, but most people don’t make it to the Treasures Cadogan Gallery. In this small room off to the side of the museum’s main drag, you’ll find Leopold Blaschka’s intricate glass models of sea creatures, Charles Darwin’s notebook and a moon rock. It’s also a calm respite from the screaming kids in the main area.

Local wisdom: Don’t save your museum trip for a rainy day as everyone else will be doing the same. Pick a day when it’s not tipping down, go during the week and enjoy relative space to breathe.

Food and Drink

The problem with managing to score a table at one of London’s constellation of Michelin-starred restaurants is that you’ll be spending three-months’ salary on an entrée. But if you’re savvy enough, you don’t have to resign yourself to living on those peanuts from the plane.

8. Schmooze for free bites

Sprawling in the shadow of The Shard and London Bridge, Borough Market is one of the most famous food markets in the world and a nexus of international cuisines. The trick to doing it on the cheap is to manufacture an expression of interest and touristy gormlessness as you chat to vendors about their food. Be sufficiently convincing, and you’ll be able to hoover up free samples all day.

9. Splurge a little on lunch

If your tastes are slightly more rareified, it’s possible to sample the dishes of a celebrity chef. The window displays of Israeli superstar Yotam Ottolenghi’s eponymous delis (there are four, including one in Notting Hill, above) are piled high with gigantic savoury muffins and cloud-like meringues. Pastries from £2,85 (R48), breakfast dishes from around £7 (R118), selection of three salads £12,90 (R218). Make sure you’re at Ottolenghi not Nopi, his even more enticing but higher-end brand.

10. Kebabs you can’t miss

London’s best kebabs can be found at an unassuming Turkish joint called E. Mono in Kentish Town Road. It’s hard to find a seat, though, after food writer Giles Coren wrote a rhapsodic review of the ‘best kebab I had in years. Beautifully sweet and fatty, full of fresh lamby flavours. Imagine the beauty if others emulated E. Mono.’ Prices start around £5 (R84). Tel +442074859779.

11. Be a well-fed vegetarian

Eating vegan or vegetarian isn’t the cheapest in London. Thankfully, there’s a place near Oxford Circus called Tibits that’s plenty affordable. You only pay for how much your plate weighs and not what you order. So go ahead and carbo- load with mounds of Asian glass noodles and Parmesan-stuffed baked potatoes.

12. Get a discount on your meal

Head to chains such as Itsu, Pret-A-Manger and EAT. just before closing time when anything not sold during the day will be on offer for giveaway discounts.

Local wisdom: If the Springboks are playing you’ll want to head to The Slug@Wimbledon, a bastion of South Africanness where you’ll be rewarded for your accent by some drunk homesick guy from Newlands buying you a Castle.

Entertainment

One of the prime joys of being in a town like London is the feeling that you’re at the centre of the world. The challenge is resisting the urge to blow your life savings on show tickets.

13. Enjoy the local music scene

While it’s tempting to lay down £60 (R1 000) to see John Legend at the O2 Arena, there are cheaper tickets in town. Defiantly independent record label Rough Trade hosts regular free gigs at its Brick Lane store. Southbank Centre has free lunchtime gigs on Saturdays. Effra Hall Tavern’s legendary Sunday jazz nights are also free.

14. Go to a cinema with an 80s feel

To catch a film, avoid the bigger cinemas and head to the Peckhamplex in hipster commune Peckham. All movies (including latest releases) are £5 (R84), you’re supporting an independent cinema and they don’t care if you sneak in your own snacks.

Tip: It’s worth parking outside the Odeon in Leicester Square for a big premiere to blush at Ryan Gosling or Emma Watson on the red carpet.

15. Have an original theatre experience

Watching The Bard’s plays being performed at Shakespeare’s Globe, the very stage for which he originally wrote his plays, dissolves bad memories of English exams. It’s open-air, so no matter how sunny it seems at the time, remember to take an umbrella with you, because London weather… Standing tickets are only £5 (R84).

16. See yourself on TV (maybe!)

Join the live audience of your favourite BBC show for free. Apply online and join a queue of hopefuls to see, say, Radiohead perform on Later… with Jools Holland or watch Graham Norton interview Tom Hanks.

17. Hear some jokes

Angel Comedy runs a free stand-up night every day of the week at the Camden Head. Recent South African transplant Loyiso Gola is a regular, and big names such as Dara Ó Briain, Russell Howard and Simon Munnery have been known to drop in to try out new material.

18. Get intellectual

Each week the London School of Economics & Political Science hosts notable speakers for talks on a number of interesting subjects, and attendance is usually free. Previous big names have included David Cameron and Angelina Jolie.

Local wisdom: Avoid extortionate drink prices by ‘pre-gaming’. Wherever you go, you’ll have to queue for years at the bar for the privilege of being ripped off. So pick up some bottles from the supermarket and have pre-drinks at home before hitting the town.

Apps to save more pretty pennies

Drinki

Gets you one free drink from one pre-selected bar per day. Some bartenders will give you the stink eye, but you’ll find it hard to care in the afterglow of a free mojito. drinki.com

Frugl

Regularly refreshed listings of local deals on gigs, parties, food and drinks for under £10 (R170). frugl.com

Too Good To Go

Massive savings on restaurant-quality food that would otherwise be thrown away. toogoodtogo.co.uk

Citymapper

Allows you to work out the parameters of your journey according to what you can afford. citymapper.com

This story first appeared in the June 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Check into the most desirable places in South Africa with our featured winter deals; find cool images of the Antarctic and take a wild drive over the Namib dunes in our June issue!

This predominantly farming town has a lot to offer visitors, while still retaining its small town charm. Here are 23 reasons you should visit Villiersdorp.
This wonderful little farming town that lives in the shadow of Franschhoek has so much to offer. Life really slows down here and it’s just wonderful – along with being ridiculously affordable.

Founded in 1843, Villiersdorp is predominately a farming town and if you pass through it, it will appear that there’s not much there. However, if you stop and stay for a while, you’ll find that this dorp at the one end of the Franschhoek Pass has plenty to offer its visitors, while still retaining its small town charm. Here are over 20 reasons to stay awhile.

1. The scenery of The Franschhoek Pass

There are plenty of routes into Villiersdorp, but the most spectacular way to get there has to be over The Franschhoek Pass. Completed in 1825, this historical pass was orignally known as Olifantshoek (Elephants Corner) after the herds of elephant that are rumoured to have roamed the area. While you’re unlikely to find an elephant on the pass today, you could come across troops of baboons, so go slow around those bends! You will definitely be rewarded with beautiful vistas, a fantastic view over Franschhoek, plenty of pretty fynbos and dramatic gorges.

Look out for the Jan Joubertsgat bridge, one of South Africa’s oldest bridges and if you travel back to Cape Town using the pass, there’s a spring from which you can collect water – if you are brave enough, it’s near the hairpin bend by the lookout point over Franschhoek.

2. History and art at the Dagbreek Museum and Info Centre

Situated in a national monument is the town’s Tourism Centre, along with a small museum with various artefacts highlighting interesting stories about the history of the town. The building is also a community hub that hosts markets and showcases work by local artists with opening nights where guests can enjoy snacks and wine. It should be your first port of call as they are extremely helpful and knowledgeable about the town and surrounding area, along with any local events that may be happening. You may even leave with a piece of art.

Contact: Tel 0288400082, http://villiersdorptourism.co.za

3. Breakfast at Kelkiewyn Café

Situated on the main road near the end of town (or the beginning, depending on which which way you come into Villiersdorp) this family and dog-friendly restaurant is set in pretty grounds alongside a riverbank overlooking vineyards. The tables have chequered tablecloths, there’s a fireplace for cold days, antique dressers, bunting and quirky teacup chandeliers, making it a a cheerful and cosy spot to grab a bite to eat. You can also buy local jams, rusks and preserves.

Their menu is fairly extensive with breakfast options, grills, burgers, fish dishes, tramezzino, toasted sandwiches and various nibbles. I can recommend their ‘budget breakfast’ – it was the perfect stomach-liner before wine-tasting next door afterwards.

Contact: Tel 0288400900, www.kelkiewyncafe.co.za

4. Wine tasting at Villiersdorp Wine Cellar

Originally started for the sole purpose of making Moskonfyt (grape must jam) and grape juice in 1922, this is one of the oldest wine cellars in South Africa. Today they also produce a variety of well-priced wines, which you can sample at their tasting room next door to the Kelkiewyn Café. I was rather enchanted with their Hanepoot Jerepigo Treintjiewyn, not only because I have a penchant for desert wines, but also for the endearing name and label, named after the treintjie which can be seen outside the tasting room (see the photo above).

Their Slowine has a tortoise on it for a reason – a portion of every bottle sold in Japan goes to Cape Nature towards conserving the Geometric Tortoise. The cellar is also a member of the Green Mountain Eco Route and are committed to alien plant clearing along with ensuring that no vineyards are planted in areas where Cape fynbos is protected.

Contact: Tel 0288400083, www.villiersdorpcellar.co.za

5. Take a stroll with Riversong Nature Rides and Rambles

After spending many years at a desk job, Donella Young decided to head for the hills (literally) and became a registered FGASA Nature Guide. She now offers personalised tours in and around Villiersdorp, including nature walks, cyles and drives through the local farms and surrounding nature reserves. Donella took me on an amble through fynbos and renosterveld while imparting all sorts of interesting facts – did you know that Wagon Tree (Protea Nitida) was used by the voortrekkers make the wheels for their wagons?

She also pointed out the various passes into Villiersdorp (there are in five in total), historical farms, rivers, dams and other points of interest while I simply gaped at the magnificent view. We stopped for tea and homemade biscuits (she bakes too) before I was taken back to my accommodation. Knowing that I was interested in local farming activities, Donella also took the time to take me through some farms and orchards en-route and she’ll do the same for you as each tour is personalised.

Contact: Tel 0288400841, http://riversongretreats.co.za

6. Go back in time at the Tractor Museum

Housed in a large shed (you get the keys from the Kelkiewyn Café), the Tractor Museum is a fascinating journey through various stages of farming machinery which have been lovingly restored by members of the club. If you want to see the tractors in action (yes, they still work!) then keep an eye out for the Veteran Tractor Show that takes place annually in Villiersdorp where they put these vintage beasts of burden through their paces.

Contact: Tel 0288400900

7. Fill your tummy at Alwyn Vincent Padstal

This padstal on the edge of the town has a rather interesting story behind its name. It’s named after an Italian-built, 100-ton steam tug, one of the last hand-fired, coal steamships ever built, that now rests in Villiersdorp just behind the padstal. Pop into the Viljoen family’s yard and you may be lucky enough to find Eniel Viljoen, a member of the Vintage Tractor and Engine Club who were behind getting this vessel to Villiersdorp, and he will gladly regale you with tales of the tug’s history and how they got it there. There are also plans to turn the tug into a self-catering accommodation option so watch this space…

The padstal is also home to some of the best homemade pies I have ever tasted (I highly recommend the bobotie pie), along with the usual padstal fare on offer, incuding various bakes, fresh fruit, jams and preserves. There are also a few vintage items and bric a brac for sale, including old LPs. The charming dining area also serves light meals, including toasted sandwiches, prego rolls and pizza (the fig and blue cheese pizza is a firm favourite with the locals).

They are also open for dinner from 18:00 on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays, usually with a themed evening, or a special offer. I tucked into a burger served on a roosterkoek that could’ve fed a small family. As owner, Lee Messinger, says ‘The farmers around here have big appetites’, so you definitely won’t leave feeling hungry. They are applying for their liquor licence, so expect wine tasting and craft beers in the near future.

Contact: Tel 0620939317, or visit their Facebook page

8. Hug an alpaca at Helderstroom Alpacas

When I arrived at Helderstroom Alpacas, 10km outside of Villiersdorp, I delighted in being greeted by alpaca yarn drying on the washing line alongside freshly washed linen.

Helderstroom Alpacas is one of the few farms in South Africa that breeds these fascinating, spitting, curly-haired creatures with bad 80s hairdo’s that hail originally from South America. There are approximately 40 alpacas in residence and owners, Christopher and Alison Notley, know them all by name (no mean feat!)

They were also the first farm in the country to have produced twin alpacas, a very rare thing indeed. The alpacas are shorn in October and November (before it gets too hot) and that fleece is then hand-spun before being knitted into beautiful, earth-friendly garments (both the alpacas and the fibre production process have low environmental impact and a very light carbon footprint).

Their range includes hats, scarves, gloves, socks, shawls, ponchos, bags, cushions and babywear. It’s not cheap, but it feels amazing on the skin and Alpaca is non-allergenic with no prickle or ‘itch’ factor. Apart from cuddling an alpaca and seeing the yarn-making process or indulging in a scarf, the 300 year old farm has incredible views over wheat fields, orchards, vineyards and mountains. Christopher and Alison welcome visitors, but make an appointment as this is a working farm.

Contact: Tel 0288400158, www.helderstroomalpacas.co.za

9. Wine tasting and platters at Stettyn Wine Cellar

Further along from the alpacas, on the R43, you’ll find Stettyn Wine Cellar. The farm dates back to 1714 and the Cape Dutch homestead, built in 1777, is a National Monument. The Botha family acquired the farm in 1818 and it’s been in the family for eight generations, with the cellar itself being established in 1963.

Stop in at this historical farm, relax under umbrellas and enjoy a free wine tasting. There are 11 wines on offer and should be enjoyed alongside their delicious platter of homemade butternut soup, biscuits, local cheeses and charcuterie, along with olives and preserves (R170). They are also family and dog-friendly – both kids and hounds will love frolicking on the green lawn outside the tasting room. Cellar tours are available by appointment.

Contact: Tel 0233404220, www.stettyncellar.co.za

10. Tee off at Theewaterskloof Golf Club

Enjoy a round of golf in a lakeside setting with fynbos and views of mountains and vineyards at this nine-hole golf course on a private housing estate. Although there may only be nine greens, the course plays like 18 holes as there are different tee boxes on all holes, varying the distances and angles to the fairways and greens. Visitors are very welcome, but it’s preferable to make a booking beforehand. If you’re a member of a golf club in South Africa, fees are R200 while non-members pay R300. They also have a bar with light meals available, including breakfast options, toasted sandwiches and burgers for very reasonable prices.

Contact: Tel 0288402213, www.theewaterskloof.co.za

11. Watersports at Theewaterskloof Sports Club

Over the last 40 years, this club on the banks of the Theewaterskloof Dam has been hosting campers, caravaners, boat owners, fishermen, water-sports lovers and even the odd biker or two. While the dam may be at its lowest level to date, it’s still business as usual (they are open 24 hours) and they have recently upgraded the restaurant where you can tuck into a breakfast, toasted sandwiches, burgers, baskets, grills and chicken and fish dishes. The bar and restaurant are open over weekends and daily during the school holidays.

Almost anything you can think of related to the water happens here, including angling competitions, kiteboarding, skiing, parasailing, tubing sailing competitions and you’ll find plenty of canoes, keelboats, powerboats, catamarans and hobicats. You generally have to own your own vessel, but they do offer sunset cruises during season, along with sailing lessons. There is an entrance fee payable, but this will be refunded at the restaurant if you eat there. It’s also dog-friendly (not inside the restaurant) so you can take your best friend along too.

Contact: 0288401334/8, www.theewater.co.za

12. Have a picnic at The Aphrodisiac Shack

The name alone makes one wonder what I’ll find here, but it’s not what you’re thinking! The Aphrodisiac Shack’s main feature is their charcuterie, smoked meat products, a variety of cheeses and other gourmet goodies, with the deli featuring all the smokehouse’s premium products. Owner, Sean Hormann, uses both hot and cold smoking methods to produce a wide variety of products from smoked butter to Kalahari Rock Salt.

Take the popular interactive tour of the smokehouse, learning about the history, curing processes and methods, followed by a cheese and wine pairing or beer and meat pairing. Or you can simply enjoy a picnic with scenic views of the Theewaterskloof Dam while listening to local jazz. Picnic baskets must be ordered in advance and include smoked trout, apple-smoked free-range chicken breasts, hand-crafted cheeses, cold meats, freshly-baked bread, a seasonal salad and your choice of complimentary Apple- or Grapetizer, water or a bottle of local wine.

Note: This is a seasonal venue, open between September to May.

Contact: Tel 0836825030, http://ashack.co.za

13. Shop for local art at Dam Fine Art Gallery

Along the R43, close to to Aphrodisiac Shack, you’ll see a sign saying ‘Dam Fine Artists’ and you should follow it. What you’ll find at the end of the dirt road is a wonderful art gallery housed in a charming little cottage. Artists include Serena Berry, Sue Button, Mervin Ward, Liza Kerrod, Sharron Strickland, Joanne Giddey, Mike Bond and Betty McGregor. It’s unpretentious, welcoming and the artworks very reasonably priced. They also have a lovely chez lounge in the midst of it all and apparently napping is allowed…

Contact: Tel 0725386956, or visit their Facebook page

14. Take a drive on the Kroonland 4×4 trail

The Kroonland 4X4 trail on Kaaimansgat farm, 10km from Villiersdorp, is worth the drive alone – the views over the valley are spectacular including fruit trees, fynbos and proteas. Once you are there you can opt to do the circular 4X4 route in your own vehicle, but it must have low range capabilities. It takes about three hours and heads over mountains overlooking Villiersdorp and Theewaterskloof Dam. If you don’t have a 4X4, you can easily drive there in a sedan and go on a mountain and flower tour in one of their 4X4 bakkies. They also have hiking and mountain bike trails, along with a campsite and wooden cabins if you really want to get away from it all for a few days.

Contact: Tel 0288401979 or 0825674570, www.hellovilliersdorp.co.za

15. Art classes with Gustav Bester

Local artist, Gustav Bester, has his studio behind The Dagbreek and it’s worth a visit to see his interesting work, from paintings to etchings and ceramics. Apart from creating masterpieces, Gustav makes honey and olive oil, along with teaching at the secondary school in the township where some students have started getting orders for their pieces. He also teaches classes in figure drawing (Wednesday evenings), etching and ceramics (Tuesday mornings and Thursday afternoons), along with print-making workshops. If you’re in town during the week you are welcome to join the art classes (R100 per person). If there over a weekend and part of a group who would like to have a class or workshop with Gustav, he’ll be happy to oblige – just give him a call to arrange.

Contact: Tel 0820919823.

16. Tea at Country Classics

Serving coffee, cakes and light meals, Country Classics is a must if you prefer places with the quirky edge. As you walk through the entrance gate you step into a another world filled with a mix of plants (including the biggest Stag Horn Ferns that I have ever seen), waterlily-crowded ponds in wine barrels, tinkling wind chimes, seashell mobiles and cement statues, along with a pair of friendly daschunds. And that’s just outside!

The country-cottage style restaurant with its charming checked tablecloths also holds many items to buy, from jams to free-range eggs to tins of Annie Sloane Chalk Paint and other décor items. Owner, Cherylynn Castelein, is a paint effects expert and furniture restorer and will happily show you her workshop if you are interested – she also hosts paint effects classes using the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint range. When Cheryl is not painting, she’s cooking up homemade dishes that are tasty and well-priced. The menu changes according to the season, but I can thoroughly recommend the spicy Chakalaka Cottage Pie with a mix of three mashes – sweet potato, normal potato and cauliflower mash. Your dog is welcome to join you too, but must be daschund-friendly.

Contact: Tel 0829794992, or visit their Facebook page

17. See seashells at the Dale Elliott Art Gallery

The Elliotts have been in the business of creating and selling art for 35 years and during that time over 4000 people have shared in the magic of the brush, palette and canvas with them. The gallery is the main road and houses works by Dale and Mel Elliott (father and son), along with local artists. There’s also an incredible shell collection, originally collected by local, Mary Kuttel, and put together by her daughter Frances Keegan into a statement of the art of nature. The shell collection is worth a visit alone! Dale and Mel also teach painting courses in Villiersdorp, from one-day courses to three-day courses. Beginners are welcome!

Contact: Tel 0288402927, www.daleelliott.co.za

18. Go to a village market

On Saturdays during the summer months, you’ll find the Dorpsmark every Saturday on the the front lawn of the Dagbreek Museum, where local entrepreneurs sell their products. Also held in summer is the Dagbreek by Moonlight on the Friday closest to the full moon. It’s similar to the Dorpsmark, but there’s the addition of local wineries and craft beer makers, along with a local band, making it quite a festive affair.

19. Learn to make fire at Back to Basics Survival Courses

If you’ve ever wanted to know how to make a fire without a box of matches or how to trap a rabbit for dinner, then Hunt Cheney, born and raised in Kruger National Park, is the man. Previously a medic for Netcare 911, Hunt’s survival courses range from introductory to advanced, where over two to three days or longer, you can learn how to make a shelter, build a fire, make a flint head for an arrow and set traps for food, along with foraging and medicinal plants. If you really want to get serious, he also runs an advanced eight-week Primitive Course where you go into the bush with nothing and survive for two to three weeks. If you just want to learn the basics, or perhaps want to do something different with a group of friends, there’s also a one-day bush class.

Contact: Hunt 0823238516 / Lizanne 0824542208, or visit the Facebook page.

20. Have fun at a festival

The annual Stookfees in April sees the residents of Villiersdorp stook mampoer, make moskonfyt and celebrate the town’s history. The kaiings and afval are apparently a great hit with locals. Meanwhile in October there’s the Agricultural Show with food and wine, fresh produce and local musicians alongside agricultural equipment, vintage tractors and an equestrian event. There’s also a braai festival and a spring festival – keep an eye on the Villiersdorp Tourism Facebook page to be kept in the loop about upcoming festivals and other events in the town.

21. Get crafty at Pop & Lap Wool and Craft Shop

Lovers of crafts and knitting will find everything they need here for all kinds of arts and craft. Sewing, decoupage, fabric painting, beading and card making, while the wool shop has floor-to-ceiling yarn (literally) in all varieties of colours and textures. There’s also fun craft and handwork packs as well as educational toys and games for kids, along with a selection of handcrafted gifts and décor items.

Contact: Tel 0288400218

22. Have a Friday feast with the locals

Friday nights see Linquenda Private Kitchen and Country Classics hosting 3-course dinners for an absolute steal (from R150 per person). They alternate their Fridays and all you have to do is book and pitch up with a bottle. Linquenda offer a choice of starters mains and desserts, with previous options having included Oyster Mushroom Baskets, Gluwein Chicken Cassorole and Liquorice Ice Cream with Mint Liqueur and Sesame Seeds.

Country Classics favour themed evenings – think Mexican, Portuguese and Malay. While I was in town it was Country Classics turn to host and I spent the evening in delightful company (including a local who was once a guard to the Royal Family) while licking Portuguese peri-peri chicken off my fingers and quaffing Villiersdorp Cellar wine. If you want to hear some interesting stories about the area from the people who live there while enjoying a delicious meal, then make sure you get a spot at the table on a Friday night.

23. Stoep-sit at Linquenda Chambre d’Hote B&B

The first thing that struck me about Linquenda Chambre d’Hote B&B was the magnificent stoep that wraps around the house. Needless to say, much time was spent stoep-sitting (either with tea or a gin and tonic) while enjoying the wonderful view over the mountains. Built in 1925, the house is one of the oldest in town and apart from the fabulous stoep, boasts beautifully restored wooden floors and ceilings, along with a rambling garden. Owner, Emily Moya, loves collecting and restoring antique furniture, with one of the pieces being the four-poster bed in the room they rent out through AirBnB.

Entrance to the room is off the stoep and has its own bathroom with a Victorian bath, along with a small fridge and coffee-making facilities. If you want to cook a meal you’re welcome to use the kitchen in the main house, but as Emily and her French husband, Andre, are both chefs, I recommend you ask them to cook for you! A small breakfast is included in the tariff, the eggs courtesy of the chickens that you’ll find scratching on the lawn outside. Well-behaved dogs are welcome too, provided they get along with the resident dogs, cats, chickens and tortoises.

Contact: Tel 0288400120 or make a booking through AirBnb

Summer’s calling. What’s better than a few lazy days by a riverside? We reviewed the best stays in this Overberg idyll, Vermaaklikheid.

How it works:

We googled a destination that doesn’t have any hotels or B&Bs, only speciality lodgings still so undiscovered they’re not even on TripAdvisor. Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years, inspected 21 properties – these 10 made her list.

The case for Vermaaklikheid

The river offers the perfect workout, swimming and floating in fynbos-clad hills reflected in still waters.

It’s a nostalgic holiday
The origin of the name Vermaaklikheid – ‘entertainment’ or ‘recreation’ – is vague, but it’s an apt moniker for this little-known Overberg gem. That said, the recreational pleasures are old-fashioned: swimming, fishing, walking, games fuelled by creativity and conviviality. No phone reception, no TV and – for the most part – limited electricity.

There are deep, wide, mirror waters
Swimming the Duiwenhoks is something to be experienced. In summer river temperatures are layered, a delicious combination of bath-warm to icy. Its tidal push-pull offers the perfect workout, alternating between swimming and floating into fynbos-clad hills reflected in still waters.

Birds and fish abound
It’s a conservancy, so no water sports are permitted; happy are the anglers and birders slowly tooling along the river as it curls towards the sea, passing reed-fringed beaches and mudflats where children pump for prawns.

Beaches are footprintless
On the beautiful estuary that lies five to 10 kilometres south, beaches stretch for miles in either direction completely uninhabited.

It’s a real rural escape
The place is a widely spaced collection of predominantly thatched, whitewashed buildings, mostly on farm-size erven, with no real shops, no fuel station and no tar roads. Farm gates have to be opened by hand. Kids run feral, cellphones forgotten, appearing only when hungry. Privacy, space and utter relaxation.

It’s the place for early risers
From enormous flocks of ibises to out-of-tune cockerels, the morning chorus is hard to ignore, and what a pleasure to greet the dawn, mists rising off the river.

Taste fynbos-infused spirits
The Inverroche Distillery tasting room is just 35 minutes away in Stilbaai; aside from its gins, the new fynbos-infused brandy is going to take the world by storm.

Also read: the ultimate Overberg motorbike route: Cape Town to Mossel Bay.

Best glamping

1. Tented River Camp

This enjoys one of the closest, most idyllic riverside settings and views, with the benefit of being near to the estuary mouth, and surroundings that are more nature reserve than farm. Accommodation is fairly basic: three sleeping pods ‒ taut canvas over a timber frame with timber doors ‒ but weatherproof, with no flapping, and a roof pitch that’s high enough to stand up in the centre. The dining/kitchen area is under roof but this is definitely a summer destination, with a large wrap-around deck, picnic table and braai pit. There is an enormous, level grassed area the size of a football pitch where guests can erect an extra tent or two of their own (but note there’s only one toilet and one shower cabin); a few metres upstream is another jetty behind which a second shaded dining and braai area has been constructed. It’s an absolutely beautiful stretch of river; once settled you’ll be hard-pressed to leave, not least because the access track is so steep you’re asked to sign an indemnity form, and it’s certainly not suitable for 2X4 vehicles. If you don’t have a 4X4, a porterage service (at an extra cost) will assist with luggage and supplies. Be prepared for a fairly stiff ‒ but incredibly beautiful ‒ walk in and out.

Capacity: An exclusive-use property that sleeps eight in three tent-cabins (two double beds, four single beds). No babies or toddlers.
Cost: From R1000 to R3600 per night; two-night minimum stay, which includes a double canoe if available.
Contact: koensrust.co.za

Best for sea views

2. The Beach Shack

While much of the accommodation in Vermaaklikheid is along the river, this one is up the coast from the river mouth. It must be one of the most secluded beach locations in the country – a steep and very slippery walk through jagged, pockmarked sandstone boulders twists down to reveal a pristine stretch of beach overlooked by three rectangular prefab shacks. It’s extremely basic – the rooms are furnished with beds (bedding is provided) but there are no headboards, no bedside lamps or lanterns and no towels; in only one bedroom does the wall reach the ceiling, so there’s no aural privacy either. Aside from the kitchen, which is basic but charming and equipped with a gas stove/ oven and an electric fridge with a small freezer, there is a dining room but no lounge, so it would be a dreary choice in inclement weather. But when the sun shines you couldn’t wish for a better spot, and enjoy what many know is real luxury: a 2,5-kilometre private beach that stretches as far as the eye can see – and a great outdoor braai and dining table from which to enjoy it all. All lights are powered by wind and solar, but there’s a flush toilet and an indoor and outdoor shower. It’s pet-friendly too.

Capacity: Sleeps eight in four rooms (two double beds, four single beds). Not suitable for babies or toddlers.
Cost: From R1200 to R5000 per night; two-night minimum stay. A daily cleaning service is available for an additional fee.
Contact: koensrust.co.za

Best large luxury house

3. House of Eels

Don’t let the name put you off! A possibly apocryphal tale – inspired by a surprise find of eels that made their way south from Mozambique to settle in the large ponds next to the house – the only sign of eels today is on the small inscription next to the gate. From here a long private driveway – past cows and wild pastures – ends in the real surprise: a large, immaculately maintained house surrounded by tall reeds and green lawns. Furnishings are pared down and tasteful, with numerous nooks to hive off into; in fact, the quirky organic design absorbs people like a sponge, making it an ideal multi-generational holiday home. Come sunset, the central outdoor firepit is a beacon around which everyone gathers, and meals are served al fresco at the large dining table or at the equally generous table off the open-plan kitchen. Thick whitewashed walls, stone floors, high ceilings and thatch help keep it cool in summer; other than from the upstairs bedroom, there are no river views, but it’s only a five-minute stroll to the jetty. One caveat: there is only one en-suite bathroom; remaining guests share a large outside bathroom/laundry.

Capacity: Sleeps 10 in five bedrooms (three king/double beds, six single beds). Toddlers require supervision.
Cost: From R4000 to R6000 a night; minimum two-night stay. Includes a large rowing boat and three canoes.
Contact: perfecthideaways.co.za

Best location and style

4. Hill House

This is my top pick: a compact, thatched, rustic L-shaped cottage built in the vernacular style, with a deep vine-covered stoep and picture-perfect river and garden views framed by cottage-pane windows. The proximity of the river is a real boon: it’s virtually part of the garden, with two jetties to jump off from, a rowing boat and canoe, and diagonally opposite is the famous Vermaak rope swing, hugely popular with children. Aside from its idyllic riverside setting, owner Michelle Hill is a dab hand at unpretentious elegance – a linen sofa next to the indoor braai-fireplace; a properly plumbed bathtub in the garden; an extensive collection of vintage bric-a-brac that is both functional and decorative; old wrought-iron beds dressed in silky linens; two outside showers with views. The stoep and lush, well-maintained garden invite lounging and entertaining in equal measure – aside from the large outdoor braai platform, there is a much-used pizza oven, daybeds and a sheltered outside dining area with a long table overlooking the river. The well-equipped kitchen will delight foodies. What more could anyone ask for?

Capacity: Sleeps 10 in three bedrooms (four adults maximum and six children or teens in a separate barn; no kids under eight years old). Servicing costs extra.
Cost: From R4000 to R6000 a night, two-night minimum stay.
Contact: perfecthideaways.co.za

Best views (and bathrooms)

5. Thorn & Feather

It took Jonathan Gersh and a small local team of builders two years to carve out this terraced family compound up on the ridge above Oshoek Farm, with its spectacular view of the S-bend river carving its way south. The sleeping arrangements comprise three separate sleeping cabins, built from rough-hewn white rock sourced on-site, each with its own entrance and located on different levels. The main house has an open-plan kitchen and dining/study area (very effectively warmed by a wood-burning stove); glass doors lead to a separate lounge area with a fireplace. It’s a great easy-living, communal space but perhaps the pièce de résistance is the decadent bath house: open to the elements with bush views, it’s a huge room with a large open shower and a bathtub big enough for two. Piping-hot water is supplied by the donkey boiler, fuelled by invasive rooikrans, thereby providing local employment at the same time as eradicating this invasive alien (it means a daily visit from a staff member to light it). River access is a three-minute stroll down the hill. The off-grid system maximum capacity is 2kW so hairdryers and dishwashers are not an option here.

Capacity: Sleeps nine in three bedrooms (six adults and three children).
Cost: From R2400 to R3250 per night, minimum two-night stay. Includes an assortment of canoes, kayaks, an SUP board and a daily housekeeping service.
Contact: thornandfeather.com

Best budget choice

6. Deck Plek

The latest house in the River Magic portfolio, Deck Plek is by far the most enchanting. Access is by boat only, so be prepared for a bit of a derring-do as Kyle the property manager ferries you, guests, luggage, supplies and dogs across (yes, praise be, four-legged children welcome). As the pitched roof with its extended veranda and large downstairs stoep hoves into view against the dense green surrounds, you’ll know it’s going to be a fabulously relaxing break. Kyle built the shade structure above the outdoor dining table as well as the upstairs deck. Interiors are simple but spruced up: enter a spacious kitchen/dining/lounge area, with three downstairs bedrooms and a small bathroom (with a tiny shower space, the biggest drawback of the house); upstairs is a large loft (with four single beds and a partitioned-off double bed) and separate loo. There’s an outside shower (nicer than the one indoors) and fabulous river views from all the outside areas. You are fairly far upstream (around 12 kilometres from the river mouth and beach), meaning the bird life and sense of privacy is unparalleled.

Capacity: Sleeps 12 in three bedrooms and a loft (more suitable for children). It includes a canoe and rowing boat.
Cost: From R750 a night for three, plus R250 per person extra; minimum stays on weekends and over Easter. The compulsory cleaning fee is R300. Ferry there and back, free of charge, once per booking.
Contact: vermaaklikheid.co.za

Most romantic hideaway

7. The Boathouse

This was the original boathouse on gorgeous Oshoek Farm, and enjoys the closest riverside location in Vermaaklikheid ‒ open the double doors and you can literally roll into the water. It’s a rustic, quaint renovation ‒ a single room under thatch, with kitchen cabinets to separate the bedroom from the dining area, which has a fold-out couch. Bolted onto the boathouse are two cubicles for a shower and loo, both accessed only from outside ‒ not ideal if it’s raining, so there are plans afoot to incorporate an entrance to the loo from the bedroom. At night it’s romantically lit with candles, paraffin lanterns and the Godin wood stove; the fridge and geyser are powered by gas. Again, this is not luxury in the obvious sense, but by its location and space ‒ you share the 20-hectare farm and 600 metres of river frontage with just three other houses. Stripping down and walking into the balmy water at night to float under an enormous star-spangled heaven will restore your faith, if you’re that way inclined.

Capacity: Sleeps two adults sharing a bed (plus a third person on the couch).
Cost: R800 per night; minimum two-night stay except in winter. Canoes are included.
Contact: capestay.co.za/oshoekriverfarm

Worth a look

8. Vermaaklikheid Olive Farm

There are two very basic, simply furnished cottages near the village post office, and with a dearth of accommodation options catering just for couples, this is a welcome addition. Of the two, Hannah se Huis ‒ an open-plan renovated labourer’s cottage with a wood- burning oven ‒ is bigger and private, making it a rustic and romantic winter bolthole – in summer, The Boathouse’s riverside location wins. In April guests are invited to help pick olives; Judith Loewenthal makes a delicious peppery olive oil called A Taste of Vermaaklikheid. R800 per night. Call 0827026282 or find it on Facebook.

9. Peter’s House

This is the smartest option on Oshoek River Farm, and combines excellent value with a great location. Literally a stone’s throw from the river bank and surrounded by treed lawns, the thatched house sleeps up to seven in two bedrooms and an upstairs loft (accessed by an outside staircase). The double-volume, open-plan living area opens onto a deck with lush views. This is one of the rare Vermaaklikheid houses with a TV; bring your own DStv smart card. R1800 per night; minimum of two nights except in winter. capestay.co.za/oshoekriverfarm

10. Marshall Farm

Another great riverside option, it’s located a short stroll (upstream) from Hill House. It offers a comfortable stay for 11 in four bedrooms (the loft room is accessed by an outside staircase), and a great outdoor area. David Marshall has plans in council to build the most fantastic jetty; once completed this will be one of the best places to relax on the river. From R4000 to R7500 per night; minimum of two nights. perfecthideaways.co.za

This story first appeared in the September 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our September issue features affordable destinations around SA, great photographic hides, and a Thailand travel guide. On shelves from 22 August.

The Blue Flag Programme, now in its 30th year in South Africa, is focused on the conservation of marine and coastal habitats and works to increase sound environmental practices among tourists, local populations and beach management.

Blue flag status

A Blue Flag assures you that the beach is clean, safe and environmentally friendly. All Blue Flag beaches have to meet very strict international criteria and the programme is locally managed by WESSA (the Wildlife and Environmental Society of South Africa). This year, 44 South African beaches will fly these flags.

The flags will also be raised at seven marinas and used by 11 sustainable tourism boats around South Africa.

An additional 22 beaches across the Kwa-Zulu Natal, Western Cape and Eastern Cape will participate in the Pilot Programme. This is an important developmental stage for potential Blue Flag sites, during which WESSA works with beach managers and Tourism Blue Flag Beach Stewards towards achieving full Blue Flag status. Internationally, over 4400 beaches, boats and marinas currently hold Blue Flag status in 46 countries.

The top beaches in South Africa

The woman who’s seen them all

We roped in an expert to curate the best possible list of South African beaches to visit this summer. To compile MapStudio’s Life’s a Beach, a guide to SA’s beaches (R175), Ann Gadd travelled some 9500 kilometres along our coastline, from the Namibian border to Mozambique. There are few people in the country who can say they’ve done that. Here’s her choice of the best ‘all-rounder’ beaches:

1. Zinkwazi Beach, KwaZulu-Natal

Blue Flag: Pilot Stage (beaches with this status are working towards meeting the minimum requirements for Blue Flag status in safety, amenities, cleanliness and environmental  standards).
Map: See Zinkwazi Beach on Google Maps.

Zinkwazi’s right hand point break is suitable for surfers of all levels. Photo by Chris Davies.

The lagoon is closed to the sea, making for a fun water-playing spot. To the right of the main beach there is a natural pool protected by rocks. There are also loads of rock pools to explore and sand castles to be built – a great place for kids.

Also read: How to beat the crowds in Zinkwazi.

2. Kariega Beach, Kenton-on-Sea, Eastern Cape

Blue Flag: Yes
Map: See Kariega Beach on Google Maps.

This secrect cove, Shelley Bay, is very close to Kariega Beach at Kenton-On-Sea. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Sandwiched between the Bushmans River Mouth and the Kariega River, this beach is great for those in search of a relaxed seaside sojourn. If you want a break from the saltwater and sand, there’s a reserve just behind the beach where you can go for a walk. Go to this beach if you prefer a wild environment to a built-up coastal hub.

Also read: Discover secret spots on a sunshine coast road trip.

3. McDougall’s Bay, Port Nolloth in the Northern Cape

Blue Flag: Pilot Stage.
Map: See McDougall’s Bay on Google Maps.
This one has to be one of the more remote beaches. In the far north of the West Coast is a ‘gem that has it all’.

4. Muizenberg’s Surfers Corner, South Peninsula in the Western Cape

Blue Flag: Yes
Map: See Muizenberg Beach on Google Maps.

Muizenberg is a great spot for an early morning dog walk. Images by Chris Davies.

You’ll probably hear Clifton’s the place to be seen ‒ and if that’s what you’re after, it’s definitely the beach to head to. But the water is icy and you’ll probably soak up more sand than sea minerals. Muizenberg is a long beach lapped by the warm Indian Ocean water. It has calm sets of waves, walks, a park and places to eat. Go here if you don’t mind dodging newbie surfers. Just note, it gets packed in summer and parking can be a nightmare.

Also read: Southern charm: a guide to Muizenberg.

5. Gonubie, East London in the Eastern Cape

Blue Flag: Pilot Stage
Map: See Gonubie Beach on Google Maps.

One of the best beaches in South Africa, with lovely swimming.

All Blue Flag Beaches in South Africa

The Western Cape achieved the highest number of Blue Flag sites, with 28 of the beaches, all eleven boats and six of the seven Blue Flag marinas falling in the province. This shows an increase of three Blue Flag boats from the previous season, and one additional marina.

Garden Route

The Lookout Deck sitting pretty at the Blue Flag Lookout Beach. Image by Vanessa Brewer

Plett has the most beautiful beaches with six Blue Flag options: Robberg 5, Keurboomstrand, Nature’s Valley, Lookout Beach and Singing Kettle. There’s also Mossel Bay, which has three Blue Flags. Nearby there’s Buffalo Bay and Brenton-on-Sea in Knysna.

Also read: The not-so-posh guide to Plettenberg Bay.

Cape Town

A view from the Sharks spotter’s hut looking over the bay. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The Mother City has 10 of this year’s Blue Flags: at Melkbosstrand, Muizenberg and Fish Hoek. Seaforth in Simon’s Town is a new Pilot Stage Blue Flag beach. These last three put the False Bay coast firmly on the map, taking some attention away from the city’s iconic Atlantic seaboard Blue Flaggers (Camps Bay, Clifton Fourth and Llandudno). Then there’s also Strandfontein, Bikini, Mnandi and Silwerstroomstrand to visit.

Here’s why the far south is worth the drive: for Stilbaai’s Preekstoel and Lappiesbaai (both long-running Blue Flags), Jongensfontein and Stilbaai Wes (on the pilot list this year) – plus there’s Witsand too.

Also read: Fish Hoek: an underrated Cape Town stay.

Eastern Cape

Views of the sea in the Eastern Cape. This section of the coast is accessible from Mtentu River Lodge. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Port Elizabeth is the second-best city for beaches, with three Blue Flags (Humewood, Kings and Hobie Beach). But just up the coast, Kelly’s in Port Alfred has been on the list for 13 years, nearby Kariega for nine – and now Middle Beach and Kenton-on-Sea are in the pilot stage too. Keep going, and the stretch near the Great Fish River mouth has Hamburg (already a Blue Flag gem) and Birah, Mtenthu and Mzamba with pilot status.

Also read: 15 cherry-picked accommodation spots in Kenton-On-Sea.

KwaZulu-Natal

Hazy mornings with rough seas barely deter regular early-morning swimmers on the Durban beachfront. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The South Coast boasts seven Blue Flags, while Durban has two (uShaka and Westbrook Beach). It’s the North Coast that’s making an effort – Salt Rock, Blythedale, Willard and Zinkwazi are all in pilot phase.

Make the most of the longer days and shorter nights at these fresh eating spots in Cape Town. We hunted down the must-dine spots that have delicious food and drinks, combined with a great atmosphere.

These exciting new spots in the city are guaranteed to assist with soaking up some summer sunshine.

1. The Yard, Silo District

Address: Silo 4, Silo Square, V&A Waterfront.
Contact: yardrestaurant@gmail.com.

A Euro-Asian infused location. Image from The Yard.

The Yard concept store and eatery has landed in the hottest hub of culture and fashion – the Silo District at the V&A Waterfront. The Yard is set to become the go-to place in the new district and offers fine chocolates, homemade pasta and farm-fresh cheeses. The deli serves healthy meals from fresh farm produce and there’s a fine-dining Euro-Asian fusion experience for lunch and dinner. The Yard also keeps it local, with a bar stocked with local beers, wine and gin.

2. Roast and Co. City Centre

Address: 98 Shortmarket Street, Cape Town
Contact: 0214246372.

Fresh free-range chicken is always a good idea. Image supplied by Melissa Delport

Do you love chicken? This may be the spot for you. Roast & Co. is a sustainable ‘farm-to-table chicken-on-the-bone’ restaurant. This new kid on the Bree Street block from the team that birthed HQ Restaurant. The restaurant is now open for lunch, dinner and plans to host monthly event specials. Look forward to servings of free range chicken meals with a local twist.

The trendy Roast and Co.interior. Image supplied by Melissa Delport

3. Firefish Seafood Restaurant,  V&A Waterfront

Address: Shop 154, Victoria Wharf, V & A Waterfront.
Contact: 0212864933.
Firefish Seafood Restaurant is the new seafood grill restaurant at the V&A Waterfront. The fish comes straight from the ocean and onto the grill. Not crazy about seafood? If sushi and shellfish isn’t for you Firefish also has an array of vegetarian dishes, beef and chicken as well as desserts. Plus, the views of the harbour are exquisite and you won’t want to leave.

4. Mulberry and Prince Kitchen and Bar, City Centre

Address: 12 Pepper Street, Cape Town City Centre.
Contact: 0214223301.

American styled breakfast with a hint of South Africa. Image by Myburgh Du Plessis

If the dusty pink door doesn’t grab your attention as you walk past Pepper Street in the CBD then I don’t know what will. Mulberry and Prince has an American influence with South African flair. The New York styled eatery won’t serve you a typical breakfast. Instead, you’ll get mimosas made with fresh naartjie juice or a spicy bloody Mary garnished with a blue cheese stuffed green olive. Now that’s something unique worth exploring.

Pastel pinks are the theme of the interior decor at Mulberry and Prince. Image by Micky Hoyle

5. OUIBar and KTCHN, Silo Square

Address: Silo 6, Silo Square, V&A Waterfront.
Contact: 0870861578.

Bold red, black and white is the theme at the Radisson RED Hotel. Image supplied by Radisson RED Cape Town.

Cape Town is known for its street food culture and the chefs at the OUIBar and KTCHN embrace that. All the food is sustainably sourced and the bakery and a barista service waiting to help you if you feel like nibbling on the delicate confectionary. Breakfast is also served 24 hours a day. Now that’s a win! To top it all off, this eclectic restaurant has a selfie wall with an installed camera for you to take snaps while you wait for your food.

The Radisson RED Hotel is the first of its kind in Africa. The interior of the OUIBar and KTCHN. Image supplied by the Radisson RED Hotel.

6. Zenzero Restaurant, Camps Bay

Address: 2A Victoria Road, Camps Bay.
Contact: 0214380004.

Camps Bay is a holiday favourite for tourists from all over the world. Image by Zenzero Restaurant.

Zenzero has had an interior design makeover and curated a brand new menu, however they haven’t lost their Italian cuisine touch. How does a breakfast of ricotta pancakes with lemon and honey butter sound? I’d say, simply delightful! Zenzero Restaurant offers you views of the Atlantic Ocean and the sea breeze to match in the heart of Camps Bay.

7. Canteen, Salt River

Address: 17 Queens Park Avenue, Salt River.
Contact: 0212048560.
A new and fresh concept this boutique food court is in Salt River. Benjamin Cox came up with the magnificent idea of creating a space where people can meet and eat. Canteen opens on weekdays from 08:00 to 16:00. This new culinary and dining culture incorporates street food chefs to provide their creations for the Canteen’s guests.

8. 14 Stories Rooftop Bar, City Centre

Address: 23 Buitengracht Street, City Centre.
Contact: 0214929999.

A cocktail and a view makes a formidable combination. Image from SunSquare Cape Town City Bowl Hotel.

Cape Town is known for its many rooftop bars. While many may think the views from all rooftops are exquisite, the 14 Stories view in particular will blow your mind away. 14 Stories is also a new kid on the Bree and Strand Street block. The rooftop bar is in the new SunSquare Cape Town City Bowl Hotel. The bar stocks 14 red wines, 14 white wines and 14 bubblys, in addition to that, there are 14 cocktails.

9. Lou Lou’s Bar and Lounge, Greenpoint

Address: 27 Somerset Road, Greenpoint.
Contact: 0214180015.

Unique decor, delicious food and the vibrance to match. Image supplied by Lou Lou’s Bar and Lounge.

South African restauranteur Sergio Zurini has brought Lou Lou’s Bar and Lounge to Cape Town. Having previously launched Churchills Bar in Joburg, the restaurant brings a unique style to the city. Lou Lou’s Bar and Lounge is infused with many inspirations from various cities. The bar and lounge offers traditional tapas with Asian and Italian flavours while the interior decoration is New York inspired.

10. Vigour and Verve, City Centre

Address: 79 Strand Street, Cape Town.
Contact: 0214929999.

Feel good atmosphere for the Summer. image from Vigour and Verve

Vigour and Verve is a casual and trendy dining spot based on the ground floor of the new SunSquare Cape Town City Bowl Hotel. You can access the entrance from Strand Street in the City Bowl. The decor is as exquisite as the food. Whether you’re looking to enjoy a hearty breakfast, a coffee or lunch to go, there’s always a great variety.

11. The Stack, Gardens

Address: 7 Weltevreden Street, Gardens.
Contact: 0212860187.

When driving past the residential area in Gardens, you could easily miss the big white house with a wonderful garden. The decor at The Stack is eclectic and stylish, with a vibrant atmosphere. The warmer it becomes in Cape Town, you will have the option of enjoying your breakfast, lunch or dinner on the terrace. The food is brightly coloured and it’s safe to say you’ll be spoilt for choice.

Keep your eyes peeled for two more new spots launching at the end of October in the Camps Bay area: 

12. Chinchilla, Camps Bay

A brand new sky bar is opening on the top of an iconic site in Camps Bay. Not much can be revealed as of yet before the big launch. The ambience at Chinchilla will welcome a trendy and exciting hot spot. The sky bar will offer inevitably astounding views of Table Mountain and the Twelve Apostles. The menu is something to look forward to, with an exciting range of drinks and delicious tapas.

13. Bilboa, Camps Bay

The Bilboa Restaurant is set to launch on the Camps Bay Promenade. The restaurant will be upmarket with delicious cuisine. You don’t want to miss it!

In Africa, we have beautiful beaches to boast about. Some are best for surfing, swimming and snorkelling and others simply offer superb sunsets and historic ruins to inspire poetic souls.

1. Tipaza, Algeria

Under the Roman Empire, Tipaza was call Tipasa. It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2002. Photo by Jean-Pierre Dalbera. 

Many civilisations have sailed across the silvery blue waters of this Algerian city and left behind traces of their cultures. Tipaza was built upon three hills that tumble down to the coastline.

Its past as a Roman port town can be seen by the remains of amphitheatres, fountains, basilicas and theatres. An ancient harbour is thought to belong to the Phoenicians who arrived before the Romans as they travelled along the North African coast.

Tipaza is about 80 kilometres from Algiers and the hot, dry Mediterranean summer is reason enough to get in the water; but you can also step back in time at the Tipasa Archaeological Park and see Roman bath complexes and mosaics.

2. Chindini Beach, Comoros

Pahoehoe lava on Chindini Beach. It’s a balsatic lava flow that has a smooth, billowy or ropy surface. Photo by David Stanley.

Africa’s third smallest country has some sweet swimming shorelines to take a dip almost anywhere. At the southern tip of Grande Comore or Ngazidja (as it’s called in Swahili) is Chindini beach.

It rests at the bottom of a large basin and is described as one of Grande Comore’s best beaches. The dark lava that contrasts strongly against the white sand is from Mount Karthala, an active shield volcano. It is 35 kilometres from Moroni, the capital city of Comoros.

It’s also a snorkelling and scuba diving destination. There are seagrass beds, mangroves and coral reefs along the edges of the volcanic Comoros islands making it the perfect place for your aquatic adventures.

3. Bojo Beach, Ghana

Bojo Beach is about 457 metres long. You can hire a jet ski or surf and kite surf to explore these waters. Photo by Myweku Tastes.

More than 20 kilometres west of Accra is a small beach that gives the impression of being on an island. It’s quieter than its neighbour, Kokrobite Beach and you have to cross the Densu River from the mainland to get to it.

Bojo Beach is located on a man-made sandbank that has fresh water on one side and salty water on the other. You have to pay an entrance fee (about R30), but it’s the kind of beach you can chill at all day. The artificial island is known for it’s fusion of Ghanaian and Caribbean cultures; there are huts dotted along the beach and music all in keeping with the island vibe.

4. Watamu, Kenya

Watamu has some of the best snorkelling and diving in East Africa. There are over 100 types of coral. Photo by Cordelia Persen.

An endless ribbon of velvety white sand is exactly what you’ll find at the beach in Watamu. It’s a coastal town 105 kilometres north of Mombasa that is situated in the heart of two protected areas, Watamu Marine National Park and Arabuko Sokoke National Park. Offshore are coral gardens and at low tide, if you walk about one kilometre to reach an island chain, you’ll find small bird species too.

The coastal environment is also varied with tropical rainforest, bays, mangroves and low cliffs.

5. Asilah, Morocco

The best time to visit Asilah is in autumn and spring when it’s not too hot and there are fewer tourists around. Photo by Ramon Cutanda Lopez.

There are more than a few good reasons to treasure Asilah in Morocco: it’s been described as an ‘under-the-radar’ destination and also has safe swimming and surf beaches. The fishing village was once a Spanish territory and also has a natural harbour.

Paradise Beach is said to be the best of Asilah and you can ride a camel along the shore in true North African fashion. It isn’t easy getting to this beach because it’s in a bay at the end of a lengthy dirt road, but it could be worth escaping the crowds. If you forgot your 4×4 you can access the beach on a horse and cart.

6. Cabo Ledo, Angola

The Atlantic Ocean where Cabo Ledo’s coastline is, borders Quicama or Kissama National Park, which was successfully rehabilitated after the Angolan Civil War. Photo by Felipe Miguel.

Google ‘Cabo Ledo’ and you’ll find articles praising it as a destination in the surfing world. It’s 120 kilometres south of Luanda and has one of the world’s longest point breaks. What’s more, Cabo Ledo has waves that are suitable for beginners. It’s also relatively untouched and pretty much empty except for the souls who know about it. For world-class waves to surf, look no further than Angola.

7. Goree Island, Senegal

Goree is from the Dutch phrase ‘Goe-ree’ which means ‘good harbour’. Photo by Allison German

Three kilometres off the coast of Dakar is Goree Island. This 900 metre-long, 300 metre-wide island is a piece of history and is thought to have been one of the main centres in the Atlantic slave trade. The House of Slaves on the island is a memorial and museum and Goree is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The beach is tiny and there is a jetty surrounded by gentle waves that is safe for kids to jump off of. The sheltered bay is also said to be a great swimming spot.

8. Island of Mozambique, Mozambique

The island’s architecture is a combination of traditional African in the south (Macuti/Reed Town) and European and Arab in the north (Stone Town). Photo by Berenice Charles

Ihla de Moçambique (Island of Mozambique) in Nampula is a community built on a coral reef that has buildings that go back to the 16th century.

Mozambique’s namesake was the capital city during Portuguese rule and Arabs traded on it before the arrival of Europeans. At just three kilometres in length and 500 metres in width, the island is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

If you want to swim, it’s best to avoid the area closest to the shore – take a kayak or dhow and go out far or swim near the fort. Otherwise bike around the island to enjoy the glimpses of its historical past.

Also read: Ilha de Mocambique: the past comes alive off the coast of Africa.

9. Nouakchott Beach, Mauritania

About 1.2 million tonnes of fish are caught annually along Mauritania’s coastline. Photo by sulii_pearce.

Nouakchott means ‘the place of winds’ in Berber and it lies just five kilometres from the capital city of Nouakchott. Everyday is a ‘beach’ day because of the heat and sun but it isn’t ‘the place of the winds’ for nothing. Strong winds blow frequently and the sea’s currents can be quite fierce.

The beach’s main drawcard is Port de Pêche, Nouakchott’s fishing port. You can’t miss the multi-coloured pirogues of their artisanal fishing industry. Watching the fishermen drag in their heavy nets is a fascinating site for many tourists. The best time to witness this is the late afternoon.

10. Hondeklipbaai, South Africa

Hondeklipbaai’s small natural harbour was established as a trading station in 1846 where copper ore was exported to the UK. Sunset at Hondeklipbaai.

There are many treasures along the West Coast and if you head into the Northern Cape you’ll find the diamond. Hondeklipbaai’s unusual name means ‘Dog Stone Bay’ and is inspired by a dog-shaped rock that sits near the town’s police station.

Hondeklipbaai is a village with a humble fishing heritage. You’ll find shipwrecks such as The Aristea and The Jahleel, a peaceful 14-kilometre shoreline and tidal pools. If you’ve ever been to Paternoster, you’ll love this town that’s along the Namaqualand coast. Among many other things, its known for having the best views of sunset.

Also read: a road trip up the West Coast off the N7.

11. Dakhla Beach, Western Sahara

The shallow water of the lagoon of Dakhla also makes it suitable for snorkelling. Photo by Dakhla Kite Surf Hotels.

Western Sahara is technically not a recognised country and there is conflict between Morocco and the Sahrawi Arab Democratic Republic for ownership, but this hasn’t slowed tourism down in the city of Dakhla. Beyond the dunes separating it from the Atlantic Ocean, is a 24-kilometre lagoon that is a highly popular kitesurfing destination.

Peak season is from April to October and Dakhla’s year-round strong winds make it the best location for kitesurfing. It’s mainly deserted as there are very few beach-goers and it’s quite a mission getting there due to military checkpoints along the way.

Are there other beaches on our continent that people should know about? Let us know in the comments.

You don’t have to go to Switzerland to get the best chocolate fix. There are around 30 master chocolatiers in South Africa. Here are six places to eat chocolate and explore these heavenly flavours.

1. Chocoloza, Joburg

Address: 44 Stanley Avenue, Johannesburg
Contact: Tel 0109004892, www.chocoloza.co.za.

The purest and most local ingredients are used to make Chocoloza Chocolate. Image by Chocoloza.

Opened recently at 44 Stanley in Joburg, this cosy lounge is for eating and drinking chocolate, and seeing it being made. Vicki Bain focuses on bite-size pralines, about 30 to choose from, in delectable flavours such as lime and basil, fresh mint and Ethiopian coffee. These fillings are all locally sourced and organic, such as macadamias from the KZN coast, raspberries from a farm just outside Joburg and single-origin Madagascan chocolate. There’s no palm oil used, no artificial flavours and not much sugar. ‘It’s better for you and you really get the taste of the fresh ingredients,’ says Vicki. Chocoloza also serves seven hot chocolates (choc chips whisked into hot milk), including single-origin varieties, and cocoa tea: ‘We infuse crushed and roasted cocoa beans in hot water to make a beautiful, almost savoury drink.’

2. Honest Chocolate, Cape Town

Address: 64A Wale Street, Cape Town
Contact: Tel 0767658306, www.honestchocolate.co.za.

Artisanal chocolate in Cape Town, made by Honest Chocolate. Image by Honest Chocolate.

Honest Chocolate is known for its raw cacao slabs, has been experimenting with fermented Tanzanian beans, and is looking into offering chocolate oats, chocolate samoosas and churros at its cafe in Wale Street. The chocolate cheesecake is already a hit.

3.Von Geusau Handmade Belgian Chocolates, Greyton

Address: Oak and Vigne Cafe, DS Botha Road, Greyton
Contact: Tel 0282549100, vgchocolate.co.za.

Chocolate delights made from Belgian chocolate. Image from Grey Tourism.

Richard von Geusau does around 30 fine flavours – the latest being tonka bean bars, ‘an exotic taste, best described as vanilla/almond/frankincense’.

4. Ooh La La Confectionery, Joburg

Address: Abbotsford, Johannesburg
Contact:  Tel 0117284282.

Oh La La Confectionery have gold awards from the Great Taste Awards in the United Kingdom. Image by Karen Schneid.

Karen Schneid in Joburg is obsessed with Japanese green matcha tea, and is making chocolates with it as well as matcha lattes. She makes other flavours too, including a new 70 percent dark chocolate with crushed Madagascan vanilla bean and fleur de sel.

5. Chocolats Marionnettes – Knysna

Address: 16 Jonker Street, Knysna
Contact: Tel 0443827502, www.oohlalaconfectionery.com.

The Chocolats Marionnette factory is based in Knynsa. Image from Chocolats Marionnettes.

Chocolats Marionnettes has a new treat: a Belgian chocolate fondue (R250 for two) spread out on an oriental carpet in the forest, with peacocks for company, or indoors beside the fire in their Venetian mask studio.

6. GaBoLi Chocolates– Betty’s Bay

Address: 2037 Delport Road, Betty’s Bay
Contact: Tel 0823941016, www.gaboli.co.za.

GaBoLi Chocolates has an array of flavours from Amarula, chilli, vanilla, hazelnut and so much more. Image by GaBoLi Chocolates.

Gaspard Bossut makes chocolates at his home in Betty’s Bay in a dazzling array of flavours – from Namibian Urbock beer or limoncello to blue cheese and biltong, fynbos or dates. In winter, his speciality is crystallised oranges enrobed in 70 per cent dark chocolate – ‘a taste sensation made in heaven!’

Have you eaten at any of the places mentioned? Comment below and let us know. 

This story originally appeared in the July 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our July issue features the best places to stay in the Midlands, budget family breaks in Durban, and the best (and mostly free) things you have to do in New York.

Karoo skies are among the clearest on Earth. Keep it simple with this easy road trip and get off the tar to see the stars.

There’s no better place to experience it than in this wide-open land.

Clear skies with visible stars in the Karoo. Photo by Chris Davies.

The back roads of the Karoo have a strange effect on the mind. It’s as if mile by mile they clear you out, forcing your attention into equilibrium with the passing veld, slowly finding balance, until inside and out are united in a single vast expanse, where koppie-like thoughts appear slowly, take shape, then vanish in the mirror behind. In a sense, all roads through the Karoo are back roads – even a quiet morning on the N1 can conjure this effect – but the gravel meanderings are where everything is at its most uninterrupted.

There are no cars out here. No activity of any kind it seems. A Springsteen song shuffles onto the playlist and I glance beside me at Ann, my companion on this desert detour. She is lost in thought: legs drawn up on the seat, chin on knees, staring out the window. Her fingers tap absentmindedly on her shins as Bruce makes the dusty African heat feel like a New Jersey morning skyline. Yeah Bruce, they’re both a lunar landscape, for real.

A view from Die Mond campsite. Photo by Chris Davies.

The mind abhors a vacuum and mine, apparently, can never be entirely empty. With daily anxieties driven out, old memories rush in and I find myself thinking of someone I haven’t in years: Tony Fairall, my Astronomy 101 professor at UCT.

That one semester of lectures – back when you could still get creative with your first-year choices, despite a major in English – is, without doubt, the only thing of substance I remember from three years of university. Prof Fairall’s passion, enthusiasm and wonderful bi-monthly sessions at the Cape Town Planetarium instilled in me not just a love for the stars, but an enduring interest in what they’re all about; at least as far as we know. He died in 2008 in a tragic diving accident off Hout Bay, but I’ve always remembered those lectures. More accurately, I’ve forgotten them too, but at least, having forgotten, I’ve made the effort to learn again.

The sun is low on the horizon as we pull into Kambro’s campsite, grab a takeaway pie for dinner, and pitch the tent. If daytime in the Karoo is about the immensity of the landscape, the night is about the immensity of the sky. Scorpius, my favourite constellation, is rising and I point it out to Ann, who humours me and nods as if she’s never seen it before. I mention that Antares, the bright red star at its centre, is so big it would engulf Earth and Mars if it were centred on our sun. This gets a more thoughtful response, although I’ve gone on about that before too, and my ego gives another nod to Prof Fairall and Astronomy 101.

Camping at Kambro accommodation and farm stall. Photo by Chris Davies.

The next day we pack early and head south-west, taking dirt roads wherever possible – not because they are quieter (even the ‘main’ roads are quiet out here), but because the Karoo feels better on dirt: older, more solid. Past Pampoenpoort, we turn west towards Carnarvon. Beyond, 70 kilometres out between the koppies, the South African section of the Square Kilometre Array (SKA) radio telescope is under construction, and will be for the next decade or more. The first phase will go online later this year.

Back in my varsity days, the astronomical community was abuzz with the 11-metre Southern African Large Telescope (SALT) in Sutherland, then still five years from completion. Twelve years after opening, SALT is still among the largest optical telescopes in the world, and the largest in the southern hemisphere, but SKA is the next big thing, a really big thing, a ‘megascience’ project comprising an array of telescopes spanning 10 countries and two continents: Africa and Australia. Combined, it’ll be the largest telescope of any kind to peer out into the universe and super-fast super computers must be built just to cope with the incoming data, expected to be many times the volume of the world’s total Internet traffic per second.

No sound evokes the Karoo quite like the rhythm of a creaking windmill. Photo by Chris Davies.

Both installations are centred here because the Karoo has some of the clearest night skies in the world, and because, until recently, all large telescopes were built close to or within their funding nations, leaving much of the southern sky unobserved. Well, not unobserved, just far less scrutinised.

I remember being disappointed when I realised SALT wasn’t something you could stick your eye up against and watch distant galaxies pop into focus like cells under a microscope. Everything is computerised these days, and while the final rendered images are beautiful, they still fail to eclipse the awe I feel seeing the full swathe of the Milky Way in a pitch-black southern sky. And that seems right, I think.

At Middelwater Campsite that night we pull our chairs from under towering trees and sip our red box wine, made vintage by the splendour above. Ninety kilometres to the north-west, SKA is taking shape in the darkness and above us a lone satellite tracks a pale arc past the Southern Cross.

We wake late, making the most of the leafy canopy above. Except for a few parked cars in Fraserburg, we see only one bakkie and a donkey cart all the way to Sutherland, where we catch our first glimpse of the huge dome that is SALT, on its high plateau outside town.

Sutherland is quiet in the late afternoon, and even quieter at night. Once again, a moonless sky soars above and we say little, just stare and think. You’re supposed to be able to see two or three thousand stars with the naked eye on a clear night. It seems a ridiculous underestimate, but I don’t try to count.

Prickly pears about to bloom. Photo by Chris Davies.

Down Ouberg Pass into the Tankwa the next day, we stop at an abandoned barn for lunch, but quickly vacate when we find a hive of bees ensconced on the ceiling. Outside the massive heat drives us onwards and I try to imagine the cold, dark enormity hiding behind the baking blue above.

At the oasis of Die Mond Campsite, with starlight gleaming off the incongruous water before us, it strikes me that these totally remote, vast landscapes are the perfect mirror for the immensity of the universe above. No city night sky can reveal this profusion. And who would want that? You have to be as far away from people as possible to see as far into the night as this. Or maybe take a trip to the planetarium. It’s a memorable experience, though not quite the same.

Sunset in the Karoo, when a near-endless landscape hands over to an utterly endless night. Photo by Chris Davies.

Get star-ted

It’s 7 hours down the N12 from Joburg to Kambro Accommodation and Farm Stall (1), 22km north of Britstown. Alternatively, from the N1, take the well-graded dirt DR3088 from Colesberg to Philipstown, then drive west for an hour on the tarred R48 and N10. If you have time (2½ hours), you’ll find absolute solitude on the gravel detour south of Philipstown instead.

Day 1: Kambro to Middelwater

Distance 260km Allow 4½ hours
Kambro Accommodation and Farm Stall sells meat, beer, wood and all manner of padkos so stock up if you haven’t already. Then head south on the N12 to Britstown, and west on the tarred R384. 20km out of town, turn left onto the gravel DR3070 and meander along to Vosburg, then make another left onto the AP2997 to Pampoenpoort. Turn right at the Pampoenpoort T-junction for another long, lone meander north-west to Carnarvon, then it’s back onto tar for exactly 30km, down the R63, before a right turn onto dirt for the final 5km to Middelwater Campsite (2) and the biggest trees you’ve seen all day.

Day 2: Middelwater to Sutherland

Distance 300km Allow 5 hours
From Middelwater, head back north to Carnarvon and take the Tiervlei gravel road south-west to Fraserburg. Continue southwest on the AP2259 and, as you join the R356 ‘thoroughfare’ to Sutherland (still dirt), look west for your first glimpse of the South African Astronomical Observatory (3) on the high plateau ahead. Drive the last few kilometres of tar to Sterland Caravan Park (4). No time to cook and visit the observatory? Grab a burger at The Whitehouse Inn (5) en route.

Day 3: Sutherland to Die Mond

Distance 170km Allow 4 hours
Head south out of Sutherland, and turn immediately right onto the dirt road to Ouberg/Bo-Visrivier – there’ll be no more tar until Ceres. Continue west down Ouberg Pass and follow the signs to Tankwa Karoo National Park and Ceres. Drive through the park (no permit required), turn right onto the R355 for 8km, then left for a final 20km to Die Mond Campsite (6) and a swim! The bright lights of Cape Town are still 280km and four hours away.

Die Mond campsite. Photo by Chris Davies.

Directory

1. Kambro Accommodation and Farm Stall. Six grassed campsites are discreetly spaced, each with electricity, light and a private braai. R180 per stand (sleeps four). The 10 self-catering units are from R290 per person sharing (sleep two to six). The farm stall is bursting with Karoo goodies, and you can order light meals to eat there or take away (pie, chips and salad for R60). Larger meals are also available from R180 per person, but must be booked in advance. Tel 0833056668.

2. Middelwater Campsite. Pitch your tent under the trees, and move into the open when the stars come out. There’s a dam for swimming (rain dependent), plus a small, but impressively neat ablution and donkey shower. Camping is R180 per stand (sleeps four, no electricity). Tel 0746470447. 

3. South African Astronomical Observatory. Time your road trip for a guided tour of the visitor centre and research telescopes, including the 11-metre SALT telescope. Tours run Monday to Saturday 10.30am and 2.30pm (adults R60, kids R30). The visitor centre holds stargazing sessions on Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday, starting at 6pm in winter and 8pm in summer (adults R80, kids R40). The research telescopes, including SALT, are off-limits after dark. Tel 0235712436.

4. Sterland Caravan Park. There are seven stands with power and private braais. Camping is R100 per person. Sterland runs five guest houses in town for R395 per person B&B (sleep two to six). Owner, Jurg Wagener, runs great stargazing sessions from the campsite for R100 per person. 0235711481

5. The Whitehouse Inn. Open seven days a week, serving light meals until 9pm (excellent burger and beer special for R80). Tel 0235711444.

6. Die Mond Campsite. Lush grass stands on the banks of the wide, cool Grootrivier. Camping is R70 per person (no power). There are seven self-catering cottages from R100 per person (sleep five to seven). No dogs. Tel 0233170668. 

What we’d do differently

Spend more time at Die Mond. It’s hard to describe the feeling of diving into cool fresh water after days on the Karoo’s dusty dirt roads.

This story first appeared in the July 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our July issue features the best places to stay in the Midlands, budget family breaks in Durban, and the best (and mostly free) things you have to do in New York. 

German-style sausages are brilliant convenience food. They travel well and cook in no time at all. Serve them as hot dogs or turn them into supper.

Have a hot dog party

Lay out the ingredients and let everyone build their own. Here are three great combo ideas:

1. Salty pretzel roll

• debreziner/cheese griller
• caramelised onions

2. German-style roll

• bratwurst
• German mustard
• sauerkraut

3. Soft sweet roll

• wienerwurst
• finely chopped gherkin
• mayonnaise
• crispy onion sprinkles

How to make caramelised onions

Add two tablespoons of butter and two thinly sliced onions to a medium-sized pot over medium-low heat and put the lid on. Cook for 15 minutes, then remove the lid and cook for 45 minutes, stirring regularly, until soft and caramelised. Add sea salt to taste. (Increase or decrease the quantity as you need. Just remember the basic ratio: one onion to one tablespoon butter.)

Which wurst?

Wursts are basically a preserved product. They’re either smoked or pre-cooked, which means they’re firmer than fresh sausages, won’t spoil as easily, have a longer shelf life and are quicker and easier to cook.

Debreziner
Mostly pork, thin but juicy, spicy and orange with paprika.

Wienewurst
Like a frankfurter but shorter, mostly pork and some beef, lightly smoked.

Bratwurst
Cold-smoked, made of pork and seasoned with white pepper and caraway.

Bockwurst
Thicker, mainly pork, some beef, sometimes with garlic, lightly smoked. Enjoy with Bock beer.

Frankfurter
Mostly pork and some beef, lightly smoked. Lay a poached pair over a plate of potato salad.

How to cook sausage

Browning makes all the difference to wurst, so turn them on the braai (a gas braai works particularly well) or pop them under the grill – just cut slits into the top to prevent splitting elsewhere. To fry them, prick the sausages on one side using a fork and rub with oil. Cook in a medium-hot pan until nicely browned.

The supper option

Pair your favourite sausage with a delicious side or two:

Warm Potato Salad

The trick is to use waxy potatoes and dress them while warm. Do it like the Germans and put out a ‘Wurst Parade’, an array of different kinds of sausage with hot potato salad on the side, German mustard and maybe even some sauerkraut.

Feeds 4 – 6

Ingredients 
1kg Mediterranean potatoes (available from Woolworths)
1 large onion, very finely chopped
140ml warm beef stock
50ml white wine vinegar
50ml sunflower oil
sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
chives, finely chopped

Method
1. Put the potatoes in a large pot, cover with cold water and bring to the boil.
2. Reduce the heat to more like a simmer and cook the potatoes until just tender – they still need to keep their shape when sliced.
3. Drain the potatoes, leave to cool slightly and then peel off the skins.
4. Combine the onion, stock, vinegar and oil in a large bowl and season well.
5. While they are still warm, slice the potatoes thinly and add to the dressing. Toss gently but thoroughly and leave for 20 minutes to an hour for the flavour to develop.
6. Sprinkle with the chives and serve.

Red Cabbage

Make this ahead and store in a large glass jar for taking along on a wintry weekend away. Add grilled bratwurst, creamy mash and sweet German mustard for a hearty supper that’s low on effort.

Feeds 6

Ingredients
2T butter + 1T for serving
2 red onions, thinly sliced
2 small red cabbages
4 Granny Smith apples
¼ cup red-wine vinegar
1 bottle fruity red wine
1 fresh bay leaf
sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
1 – 2T muscovado or brown sugar (optional)
2T finely chopped flatleaf parsley

Method
1. In a large enamelled cast-iron casserole, heat butter over medium heat until melted. Add the onions and stir until coated. Put the lid on and turn the heat to low. Leave to sweat for 15 minutes.
2. Remove the lid and cook, stirring regularly, for 45 minutes until soft and caramelised.
3. Quarter the cabbages, remove the tough outer leaves and cut out the core. Slice very thinly. Peel and core the apples, then grate. Add the cabbage and apple to the pot and stir well.
4. Add the vinegar, turn up the heat to medium-high and cook for one minute. Pour in the wine, add the bay leaf and season generously with salt. Replace the lid
and bring to the boil.
5. Turn down the heat to medium or medium-low so it is at a gentle simmer and cook for two hours, or place in the lower third of an oven preheated to 150˚C.
6. Remove the lid and simmer, uncovered, for 30 minutes (stirring regularly) until most of the liquid is evaporated and what is left is simply coating the cabbage and giving it gloss.
7. Season with salt and white pepper and, if necessary, the brown sugar to taste. Stir through butter and parsley, and serve.

Coleslaw Relish

If there’s leftover cabbage and parsley, make this to go alongside or on a hot dog. 1T red wine vinegar or lemon juice, freshly squeezed

Ingredients
3T extra-virgin olive oil
1 small red cabbage, cored and very thinly sliced
1 red chilli, finely sliced
handful of parsley, very finely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
1. In a large bowl, whisk together the vinegar and oil.
2. Add the cabbage, chilli and parsley and season generously.
3. Toss well and serve.

What wine?

When you’re making vinegar, acetic acid is a vital ingredient. For winos it’s a swear word. So this month, with an abundance of vinegary sides on offer, the best wine advice I can offer is: put down the corkscrew and step away from the table!

What beer?

Southern Germany’s most underrated ritual is breakfasting on pale veal weisswurst and a pretzel, washed down with a pint of weissbier. Before 12 noon. Wunderbar! To be weiss, the beer must be brewed from 50 per cent or more malted wheat and the rest from barley. The result is lighter in colour (weiss is German for ‘white’) than a traditional top-fermented ale, with all sorts of weird and wonderful things happening on the nose: fruity and spicy all at once, with hints of citrus.

You’ll have to decide whether you prefer unfiltered hefeweizen or its clear sibling, kristallweizen, but you can’t go wrong either way. Time was you had to scour the import shelf for a Paulaner, Erdinger or Franziskaner, but with our craft scene exploding there’s plenty of quality homegrown weissbier available.

My top tipples

CBC Amber Weiss (R35). The Cape Brewing Co makes some of the finest boutique beer in the country, but there’s something extra-special about this little beauty. Unlike their Krystal, Amber is a cloudy ‘hefe’, perfectly balanced, voluptuous and irresistible.

Jonker’s Weiss (R25) is a product of the award-winning Stellenbrau brewery, and it’s got the telltale banana esters and clove phenolics that beer aficionados will instantly recognise as the result of Bavaria’s king of yeasts, weihenstephan.

Carver’s Weiss (R18) is SAB’s entrant: slightly cloudy and creamy and relatively light for a weiss (perhaps a bit bitter for real fundis). You have to love the upside-down label on the back encouraging you to turn the bottle on its head and rouse the yeast.

Also read: 10 Cape craft beers to try out this summer

This story first appeared in the July 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our July issue features the best places to stay in the Midlands, budget family breaks in Durban, and the best (and mostly free) things you have to do in New York. 

We gave this family a strict budget of R3000 and tasked them with finding a route that was affordable for a family – including the furry member.

With Eshowe as the destination, here’s how they did it.

The family: Taweni Gondwe Xaba, husband Reggi, Tapiwa (11), Kulunga (9) and Zakithi (6). Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Costs

Toll fees on N2 R79
Diesel R570
Accommodation in a guest house for five + dog R1160
Food R500
Entry fees R775

Eshowe is the historical heart of battlefields where King Shaka’s men, armed only with short spears and an incredibly progressive military strategy, took on the guns and cannons of the Imperial British army, and confounded them. It was therefore fittingly dramatic that the first time we passed through, blood was spilled! We were en route to visit the Xaba family ancestral land in Vryheid.

A quick stopover landed us in the emergency room of the Eshowe hospital after our youngest got a deep gash on her knee from an uncovered tent peg. Sixteen stitches later, we proceeded on our journey. To distract the children, I made them call out the places of interest written on signboards along the road. A few caught my attention, and this is how, two years later, we ended up with the itinerary for our latest road trip.

The sprawling view from Umdoni Forest. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Going to the bush was our preferred option for this particular assignment, but the cost of game reserves seems more geared to Euro-flashing travellers and not so much to us little ZAR people. Also, the children were not keen to leave Rosie, our labrador, at home with a dog-sitter again, so we settled on doing ‘bush lite’ and basing ourselves in Eshowe. We broke up the drive there with lunch at Zinkwazi Beach, one of our favourites: pet-friendly, fisherman friendly and home to the Ski Boat Club, a lovely log cabin on the beach, serving the soggiest fish and chips ever consumed by man.

The location is so gorgeous and the beers so cold you just have to forgive them the food. On arrival at Mphushini Falls Resort, they knew nothing about our booking (in spite of the e-mail confirmation) and had no rooms. The sun had already set so we hit the internet feverishly looking for alternative accommodation at the last minute. Many simply did not answer their phones.

Long story short, we ended up at the cosy Abendruhe Guest House, which welcomed us and Rosie very warmly; owner Heinrich even brought a special rug for her to sleep on. We changed and rushed off to Shakaland for the evening performance – even though it was all staged, it was rich, informative and inspiring. Our three little chatterboxes were rendered silent for once by the audiovisual spectacle!

The George Hotel built in 1906. Photo supplied.

Early the next morning we entered the centuries-old forest in town. The tree canopy spread out beneath us as we stood on the viewing platform of the Dlinza aerial boardwalk. It was so breathtaking that we all instinctively fell quiet. Kulunga eventually broke the silence, whispering, ‘Everything is a photograph here.’ And it was.

We had not requested a guide and regretted this. It would have been very interesting to learn the names and habits of all the birds and creatures we came across, instead of this type of city-slicker conversation that occurred more than once – Kulunga: ‘Oooh! What a beautiful bug!’ Zakithi: ‘Like a mosquito with giant spotty wings! What IS that?’

With three Zulu ‘princesses’ in tow, it was only fitting that we pay our respects by visiting Queen Nandi’s grave, mother of Shaka Zulu himself. Our online research promised that we’d find a special grave designed by a cultural committee to honour her memory. Imagine our shock at finding her resting place in a shambles. The signage to the location was extremely poor and we had to depend on helpful locals to redirect us.

Finally, our Sahara Wrangler was able to tear across the overgrown hillside to stumble upon what can only be politely termed a heap of large stones held together by concrete and ‘protected’ by a broken, rusty fence. A piece of wood bore the words ‘Nandis Grave’. Tapiwa noted aloud that it was ‘even missing an apostrophe’.

Traditional dancers, singers and story tellers perform in a giant hut at Shakaland. Photo supplied.

Were it not for the exquisite and breathtaking landscape of the surrounding mountains and valleys, I’d say we burnt fuel for naught. To add salt to the wound, we got a puncture in our front tyre. I’m not one for superstition and whatnot, but I still can’t shake the feeling that it was a message from the Great She Elephant for me to relay to the nation at large that she is bitter at how neglected she is. The puncture put paid to our plans of visiting Bulawayo battlefield and the Lone British Soldier’s Grave, so we returned to Eshowe.

It’s a wonderful place – warm and inviting, like the town I grew up in. There is the main road that leads everywhere, the business owners who all seem to know everything about the town and its inhabitants, the tourist attractions that locals sheepishly admit they never visit. And one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever had, at The George Hotel: lashings of bacon, English Breakfast tea, and exquisite colonial ambience (I know, not very PC, but it really took me back home to the Gymkhana Club in Malawi). A giant image of Dame Helen Mirren on the wall above the reception desk, from when she stayed here while filming; the library suffused with the pleasant smell of aged paper and old leather, the alfresco dining space, the brilliant staff… it’s just special. The rooms are charming and, with a slightly bigger budget, we all would have loved to stay here.

Interesting side note: no one asked for the Wi-Fi password, Eshowe was that interesting!

The furry member of the family running through the fields.

Plan your trip to Eshowe

Getting there

Head north up the N2. Take Exit 245 (about 94km from Durban) for lunch in Zinkwazi. Back on the N2, take the Dokodweni Exit 277 and turn left onto Route 66 to Eshowe. After 28km, follow the signs into town.

When to go

It’s a summer rainfall area, with mild to warm weather all year – it only gets freezing cold at night in midwinter.

Stay here

Abendruhe Guest House is quite basic in its appointment but the owner’s hospitality and service are definitely five star. En-suite double room R580 per night. Tel 0828193478.

Other options we considered

Mtunzini-on-the-Green This was R1000 for the five of us, and offered a pool and braai area, but although it was on the coast it was not directly at the seaside.

The Hatchery At Amatikulu. The Kelp Room cost R1200 for all of us, but it has no pool or Wi-Fi and the offspring and husband balked at this. Penny’s Cottage looked good but was R200 over our budget; it had the essentials but wasn’t pet-friendly.

Kwa-Eden. This spot in Zinkwazi had the best web photos, was rated four stars and had all the mod cons. It would have cost only R900 a night for all of us. However, they didn’t answer their phone. safarinow.com Beautiful Ocean View Guest House At Tugela Mouth. The web pics looked amazing but the owners have dogs so we couldn’t take ours. R349 plus R303 per person (sleeps eight).

Mphushini Falls Resort. Right in Eshowe, this was our original final choice – it has a pool, free Wi-Fi and was described on Booking.com as ‘one of our bestsellers’. However, the booking was bungled. R1600 for a self-catering family room (sleeps five).

Do this

Treat yourself to breakfast for R60 per person at The George Hotel. Grab one of the outside tables. (The hotel is also the home base of Zululand Brewery and a coffee shop.) thegeorge.co.za

Do the aerial boardwalk in the Dlinza Forest, 125m long with a 20m-high viewing platform. There are also short trails on ground level through the forest. Entry R30 adults, R10 children.

Visit Fort Nongqayi in town, which houses the fascinating Zululand Historical Museum, Norwegian mission chapel, Vukani Craft Museum and magical Butterfly Dome. Entry from R35 adults, R10 kids. eshowemuseums.org.za

Shakaland by
Tapiwa Xaba (11)
‘I loved the dancing and the storytelling. It was my first time to hear the sound of the ingungu, the friction drum, and it was hypnotic. It really felt like I was there in the olden days!’

The package experiences available at Shakaland are perfect for an introduction to the various colourful and interesting aspects of Zulu culture, including beer making, beadwork, fighting formations and spear throwing. The Nandi Experience is the cream of the crop at R550 per person – a Zulu village tour, lunch and traditional dancing.

Children up to age five participate for free, those up to 12 years old pay half price. We just went for the evening cultural performance (R190 per person). Sadly, we could not partake of the magnificent buffet of game and other meats (R245 per person) as that would have blown the budget; for us, there awaited a lovely KFC in Eshowe. 0354600912, aha.co.za/shakaland

This story first appeared in the July 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our July issue features the best places to stay in the Midlands, budget family breaks in Durban, and the best (and mostly free) things you have to do in New York. 

Ice cream tastes amazingly good, but it can also be imaginative, artisanal and even healthy too. Here are 13 amazing ice creams you’ve got to get your hands on.

Durban

1. Eggloo South Africa

Address: Mozart Ice Cream at Cornubia Shopping Mall in Mount Edgecombe and Ballito Junction Regional Mall.
Contact: Eggloo Bubble Waffle.

Egg waffles can come in different flavours such as green tea, cheese, chocolate, ginger or sweet potato. Photo by Eggloo South Africa.

The egg waffle is an Instagram sensation that originated from the Hong Kong street food scene. It was invented (by accident) in the 1950s and is called gai daan jai or ‘eggies’ in Cantonese.

Eggloo South Africa is part of a new franchise from Chinatown, New York that was brought to Durban by egg waffle-loving South Africans. The bubble waffle essentially replaces the cone and once filled with ice cream can be enjoyed with various toppings.

Eggloo South Africa also has a pop-up at Charlie’s Cafe & Bistro every Sunday from 12:00 to 18:00. Follow them on Facebook to find out more.

2. Plan B Dessertery

Address: 41 Mackeurtan Avenue
Contact: Plan B Dessertery, or call 0315631173.

The founders of Plan B Dessertery also own Four15 Burrito District, a South African Burrito bar. Photo by Plan B Dessertery.

Gone are the days of Durban being in the shadows of Cape Town and Joburg, at least when it comes to ice cream. Plan B Dessertery is inspired by the street food movement and Mexican cuisine. You have to try their dessert tacos.

Choose from the Sunbow (vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, mini astros and rainbow sparkles ) for R38, Banana Split (vanilla ice cream, banana chunks, chocolate sauce, candied nuts, cream and cherries) for R45 or Caramello (double caramel ice cream, candied nuts, caramel sauce and toasted marshmallow meringue), which is R48.

If you can’t get enough, Plan B Dessertery also has a selection of the aforementioned bubble waffles and ice cream cones.

3. Yumi Bowl

Address: 4 Lagoon Drive, Umhlanga Rocks
Contact: Yumi Bowl, call 0315611237.

Also known as stir-fried ice cream, Thai rolled ice cream takes two minutes to make and is also sold by street vendors Malaysia, Cambodia and the Philippines. Photo by Yumi Bowl

This Thai handcrafted rolled ice cream has many fans and with a new creation each week, it’s not hard to see why. The gourmet ice cream selection includes ‘Death by Chocolate Brownie’ and ‘Absolutely Malvalous’ which are R59. You could also simply go for a vanilla, chocolate or peppermint and orange ice cream with syrup (either chocolate, banoffee, strawberry or pineapple) which is R39. Their non-dairy options include sorbets (avoberry and banango) which are R49.

Past creations of the week have been double donut delight and strawberry and rice cakes. The ‘Creation of the Week’ is between R59 and R69.

4. Eish Kream

Address: Eish Kream is stocked at five stores in Durban and eleven in Joburg.
Contact: The best way to know where they’ll be next is through their social media.

Eish Kream is stocked by outlets in Durban and Johannesburg and will soon be in Cape Town too. Photo by Eish Kream

The name sounds like something that shouldn’t be eaten, but if Eish Kream‘s popularity is anything to go by, you definitely should! It takes after the European trend of spaghetti gelato and this cold-press product means that each strand is chilled to perfection. Creator, Yaseera Essack Carrim has a range of 12 to 14 flavours such as sweet cream and lime, chocochino and unicorn tears, a purple cotton candy flavour. A vegan flavour will also launch in 2018 so watch this space.

Eish Kream uses organic milk and cream and as much natural flavouring as possible. You can eat it from an (edible) cup, sugar cone or taco and the boxes are recyclable. They’ve recently introduced summer mango which has been made using real mangoes.

Port Elizabeth

5. Han-Made

Address: Various stockists in Port Elizabeth also supply Han-Made ice creams.
Contact: hanmade.co.za, info@hanmade.co.za or call 0832914171.

Han-Made also serves from her factory at Chicky’s Yard for Food Truck Fridays, every second Friday of the month. Photo by Han-Made

Former high school teacher, Hannah McClean is the creator of this ice cream brand that you can find at markets such as The Valley and Goodnight Markets. There’s also the option of ordering straight from the maker herself (tubs are R30 to R40) or visiting the factory.

There are ice creams for all taste buds that want something new. Try Han-Made’s craft beer with dark chocolate and citrus peel flavour for something different. Their regulars include mint chocolate chip, salted caramel, biscuit crumble, vanilla and top-seller, peanut butter. The deluxe option includes a collaboration with Tea Merchant with flavours using loose leaf teas such as matcha and coconut, rose garden and star dust. Another deluxe flavour is Turkish Delight.

6. Il Gelato

Address: Find the factory in Leadwood Crescent.
Contact: Email info@ilgelato.co.za or call 0413682367.

il Gelato’s the only ice cream made in the Eastern Cape that contains 100% dairy. This means their ice cream doesn’t have hydrogenated fats and oils like other brands. Photo by il Gelato

il Gelato promises all of the good stuff if you want the joy of ice cream. Their gelato has half the fat content of normal ice cream and they don’t use vegetable fat. Their milk and cream is also organic and local. il Gelato’s flavours are made from fresh fruit and whole ingredients that they bake, squeeze, crush, chop or blend themselves.

Make your freezer smile by adding a 200 gram tub for R25 or a 500 gram tub for R45 from their factory. Orders need to made 24 hours in advance because the gelato is made from scratch. Some of their flavours are strawberry cheesecake, cookies and cream, salted caramel and milk tart to name a few.

Joburg

7. Yococo

Address: Find them at different markets such as Market at the Sheds in Pretoria, Market on Main Night Market, LoCrate Market and Farm Table and Selina’s Farm Fresh in Parkhurst.
Contact: Yococoa, email info@yococo.co.za or order via Instagram.

Yococo has a loyalty card program where your 10th scoop is free. Photo by Yococo

Started by vegan and ice cream lover, Sine Ndlela, Yococo is the answer to your plant-based diet and your sweet tooth. If you’re vegan, you no longer have to be limited to sorbets and frozen yoghurts. Yococo ice creams are dairy-free and nut milks are used as the base.

Try their best-selling granadilla and chocolate or their other flavours like apple pie, rooibos and cookies, dragon fruit, golden milk, lavender grey or beetroot choc. Sine is always trying new combinations so follow her social media to see what she comes up with next. You can also order 500 ml tubs for R100 (R90 if you order more than one).

8. La Cremosa

Address: Dainfern Square Shopping Centre 
Contact: gelatolacremosa.com or call 0842293994.

Gelato contains less air than ice cream which makes it denser. It is also served at a warmer temperature. Photo by La Cremosa

La Cremosa’s gelato is inspired by traditional family recipes from Rome and there are more than 20 flavours of ice creams and sorbets. Their creme is gluten-free and some of the ingredients of their flavours come from Italy like the black cherries in their Amarena flavour and the hazelnuts. The fruit sorbets are available in flavours such as melon, pineapple and blueberry, perfect for a summer’s day.

La Cremosa’s baby cup is R30 and their small cup is R45. Their medium is R60 and a large cup is R75. A 500 millilitre container is R115 and one litre is R230.

9. Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream

Address: Paul’s Homemade delivers in Sandton, Johannesburg, Centurion and Pretoria on their ice cream tuk tuk. Otherwise visit their stores outside the Gautrain Station, Hyde Park Shopping Centre, The Zone at Rosebank, Orange Grove and 4th Avenue, Parkhurst.
Contact: paulshomemade.com,

Owner, Paul Ballen received an ice cream machine for his birthday and early trials involved milk chocolate with Nutella and Oreos. Photo by Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream

What started as experiments with an ice cream machine has blossomed into Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream – a gourmet, artisanal ice cream business that uses local produce. Customers can either pick standard flavours or treat themselves to the ‘Flavour of the Month’. There are also seasonal flavours and a range of special flavours that rotate at stores each month (think cardamom and white chocolate or maple syrup and candied pecan).

If you’re feeling creative you can make up to five litres of your own ice cream. Paul’s Homemade Ice Cream They also has kosher and ice cream cake options. While their health flavours include health chai tea or health lemon cheesecake.

10. Pete’s Super Natural Ice Cream

Address: Find it at Impala Fruit & Flowers in Craighall Park, Jacksons Real Food Market, Oaklands Fruit, Farm Table in Linden and The Leopard at 44 Stanley. Pete’s Super Natural Ice Cream is on the menu at some restaurants like Voodoo Lily Cafe and Big Mouth Sushi and Grill.
Contact: Pete’s Super Natural Ice Cream.

This flavour was inspired by Marrakech where the Moroccan city’s pink buildings look red at sunset. Photo by Pete’s Super Natural Ice Cream.

All of nature can be found in a scoop of Peta Frysh’s ice cream. There are magical creations such as popcorn cream with torched marshmallows and honeycomb, peanut brittle and ginger biscuit which is laced with citrus. If you care about where your food comes from, Pete’s Super Natural Ice Cream mostly contains locally sourced ingredients and there are no artificial flavours and colours.

Cape Town

11. Sorbetiere

Address: 48 Albert Road. 
Contact: wsorbetiere.co.za or call 0790855607.

Sorbetiere’s new flavour for summer 2018 is cardamom and rose ice cream. Photo by Sorbetiere

The name says it all with this frozen dessert establishment, but you can still get ice cream if that’s what you’re after. Their sorbets are water-based with 70 to 80-percent of fresh fruit as the main ingredient (it’s also vegan and dairy-free). Sorbetiere’s popular flavours are apple and rooibos, strawberry and mint and wait for it… gin and tonic. Their fresh milk ice cream also includes favourites such as Salted Caramel, Fresh Mint and Chocolate Chips , Roasted Peanut and Valrhona Chocolate.

12. Moro Gelato

Address: 165 Long Street
Contact: morogelato.co.za.

A combination of pear and chocolate with complimentary Belgian chocolate. Photo by Moro Gelato

For classic gelato, look no further than Moro Gelato. It’s an invitation to the childhood of one of its founders who watched his Italian grandmother make gelato from scratch. Their flavours rotate every two weeks, but they always have cioccolato, pistacchio, marchese (vanilla, macadamia nuts and almonds), tiramisu and caffe (coffee gelato) . Prices are from R35 to R65. Don’t miss their Italian manufactured cart at Oranjezicht City Farm.

13. Unframed

Address: 45C Kloof Street
Contact: unframed.co.za, call 0636010287.

Unframed ice cream topped with toasted coconut, macaroons and date syrup. Photo by Unframed

You won’t feel bad about consuming this art because, well, that’s the whole point. Unframed Ice Cream have dairy, fruit, almond milk and coconut cream-based creations, which you can top with tasty bits like raw macaroons, toasted coconut chips and caramelised cashew nuts. They have 10 flavours that change depending on the season, but two of these are always sorbets and three are vegan options.

They have a lemon, lime and basil sorbet at the moment and a turmeric latte flavour. It’s R35 for one scoop and R58 for two scoops. Three scoops are R69. Unframed also have a tasting option, with five flavours for R79. It’s R10 per topping and a litre tub is from R195.

Any we missed? Tell us where to find the best ice creams this summer. 

These are the best, beautiful and affordable accommodation options near Johannesburg – plan your perfect budget weekend away from the city.

Just four hours drive or less, these are the top budget bush breaks, breathtaking mountain views and country escapes all screened and reviewed by the Getaway team.

Please note that all prices below are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before travelling.

1. Lindani, Waterberg

Cost: From R250 – R530 per person.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: wlindani.co.za.

With its own bushveld back garden, a gorgeous rock pool and an almost-guaranteed squadron of warthog mowing the lawns, Lindani is a self-catering, back-to-nature family escape that doesn’t disappoint. It’s 275 kilometres from Johannesburg and the accommodation options range from four-sleeper cottages and an eight-bed tented forest camp to the enormous 18-sleeper, four-house Motseng lodge complex. Spend time on the easy hiking trails, hire bicycles and cycle past wildebeest, zebra, eland and giraffe, or pack a picnic and stop at one of the five riverside
sites to have a splash and cool down (one spot even has tubes for the lazy soakers).

Thoughtful details such as
 50 kilograms of firewood, mammal, bird and reptile guides as well as a variety of games for rainy days are the cherry on top. There is a farm kitchen that has 
a variety of freshly prepared meals made to order (think stews and quiches), and if you’d rather braai, at least order the milk tart for pudding and farm bread for morning toast.

2. Kingfisher Lodge, Waterberg

Cost: From R450 per person
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: Tel 0825708474,  jembisa.com.

Within earshot of the trickling Palala River, Kingfisher Lodge is a spacious bushveld home in the Waterberg just three hours’ drive from Joburg. It’s one of three accommodation units in the Palala River Lodges collection and consists of a three-bedroom farmhouse with
 a cosy fireplace that takes centre stage in the open-plan living area and two en-suite rondavels nearby. It can accommodate up to 10 guests and has an on-site pool and
 a bird hide a short walk from the lodge. Pack a picnic and go for a drive to find the perfect spot in the 300-hectare reserve. There are many scenic lookout points, 4X4 routes, waterbuck, giraffe and warthog to spot or just unwind on the lodge porch with a view of the Waterberg hills and harrumphing hippo for company.

3. Bontle Tented Camp and Campsite, Marakele National Park

Cost: From R1325 for two people in one tent.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: Tel 0147776928, www.sanparks.org.

These beautiful tented camps are more chic than any other SANParks establishment I’ve visited with crisp white linen, great kitchen facilities and evenly spread apart surrounded by Waterberg bushveld for privacy. There’s the chance that white rhino will come trotting past and I woke up to impala chomping fresh shoots in front of the chalet. It is quite common for game to wander through too. Marakele offers a good alternative to Kruger. You also don’t have to compromise on game, with elephant, rhino, leopard, lion, and a variety of the more elusive species such as tsessebe and sable occurring in the park.

4. De Kunst Huisje, Bela-Bela

Cost: B&B from R420 per person
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 2 hours.
Contact: Tel 0140017238, dekunsthuisje.co.za.

De Kunst Huisje is an expertly curated guesthouse. Most visitors bypass the actual town of Bela-Bela in a hurry to holiday in the surrounding Waterberg bushveld, but one night spent here will prevent such an oversight. The old farmhouse is immediately striking from the roadside, with red door and window frames and enormous wooden carved chickens settled on the stoep. As its name suggests De Kunst Huisje (‘The Art House’) is filled with artworks, from quirky and antique to modern and classical. Big oil paintings adorn the black lounge walls and a vintage display case shows off collections of old tins and ceramics in the kitchen.

Although it’s not the most picturesque settlement at its city centre, the surrounding leafy suburbs in Bela-Bela are quiet and idyllic. It’s the perfect base to explore the bushveld or visit the hot mineral springs the town is named after at Forever Resorts, about a two-minute drive from the house (from R80 a person).

5. Hamasha Bush Camp, Soutpansberg

Price: From R520 per person (sleeps eight).
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 4 hours.
Contact: Tel 0114831841,  leshiba.co.za.

Mountain bike past rhino, bond with friends over the braai and bird up in the clouds on the 2600-hectare reserve. Off-the-grid Hamasha Bushcamp is a self-catering eight-sleeper camp perched on the edge of the world in an amphitheatre of cliffs and mountains with breathtaking views of the Hamasha Gorge. The camp consists of two cottages sleeping four each, a central kitchen and lounge area with a fireplace. There’s no cell reception or electricity and the camp runs on gas, just like it did 20 years ago.

6. Mosetlha Bush Camp, Madikwe Game Reserve

Cost: SADC specials from R1895 per person sharing for all meals and two game drives
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 4 hours
Contact: Tel 0114449345, thebushcamp.com.

The cabins at Mosetlha Bush Camp are relatively open so you can soak up the night sky.

Mosetlha is easily the most affordable option for South Africans in Madikwe and provides an authentic bushveld experience being unfenced except for a height-specific elephant wire that prevents them from pulling up trees around the lodge. The camp sleeps up to 20 in stilted log cabins that have canvas blinds, which can be rolled up to sleep with the starry skies. Food is homely matching the camps down-to-earth and unpretentious feel cooked over the fire and on gas.

7. Manyane Resort, Pilanesberg

Price: From R260 per camp site per night (with power, up to six people)
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 2h40.
Contact: Tel 0145551000, wmanyaneresort-pilanesberg.com

It might be a fraction of Kruger’s size, but at Pilanesberg Game Reserve, near Rustenburg, you stand a chance to see not only the Big Five, but also rare species such as cheetah, wild dog and even brown hyena. While there’s a variety of accommodation options, Manyane Resort is ideal for families who love to camp. It’s large and has ample shade and power points, as well as a swimming pool, restaurant and small shop.

8. Saamrus Guest Farm, Magaliesberg

Price: From R420 per person (dogs get to stay for free!)
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 2 hours
Contact: Tel 0724871733, wsaamrus.co.za.

The website does Saamrus no justice – this 500-hectare farm offers by far the most private and romantic collection of self-catering cottages in the Magaliesberg area, and the best views. Owners Chris and Annatjie Geldenhuys have designed and furnished them with great flair in a budget farm-house style; each has its own fenced garden (hurrah, another pet-friendly establishment!) with firepit and braai. Except for the rondavels, each cottage is 50 metres or more apart.

With the exception of Suikerbos and the rondavels, all cottages are open-plan with well-placed fireplaces; showers are over large custom-built bath tubs. Walks include a riverine area, indigenous forest and grasslands, and there’s a shared (small) communal pool. The only drawback is the 4X4 required to reach hillside cottages, or you’ll have to brave it on foot: it’s a 200- to 400-metre trudge uphill, but two strong men are always on duty to help carry for a tip – the staff are wonderful here.

9. Cradle Valley Guest Lodge, Cradle of Humankind

Price: From R650 per person
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 45 minutes.
Contact: Tel 0796973039, cradlevalley.co.za.

Cradle Valley Guesthouse is a lovely farm-style stay with ducks in the garden and décor that’s rustic and easy on the eye. There are twelve stylish and tastefully furnished bedrooms all with patios and horses neigh in the paddocks nearby.

Also read: The Getaway guide to the Cradle of Humankind.

10. Glenburn Lodge, Muldersdrift

Price: From R770 per person
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 45 minutes.
Contact: Tel 0116681600, glenburn.co.za.

Glenburn Lodge’s natural scenic beauty is like no other.

The Cradle of Humankind is renowned in the Gauteng biking fraternity for its 43-kilometre cyclist-friendly routes threading through the area and Glenburn Lodge sits right in the middle of it. Spread out almost like a country club the lodge is just a half-hour drive from Johannesburg, has 100 rooms (from family units to swanky hotel suites) and two newly opened mountain biking routes. Both scenic options are under 5km and sweep through fields, up mountains and along the Blaaubank and Crocodile Rivers. Cyclists can then indulge in the cycling-specific spa treatment on site, which includes a 30-minute steam, 30-minute back neck and shoulder treatment and the 50-minute invigorating foot and leg treatment that uses manual lymphatic drainage techniques. I’ll be honest – it’s heavenly even if you’re not doing the 947 Cycle Challenge this month.

11. B’Sorah Tented Camp, Magaliesberg

Price: From R1100 per tent (sleeps two).
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 1h10.
Contact: wbsorah.com.

B’sorah is a family-owned 1600-hectare farm, criss-crossed by hiking and biking trails, romping warthogs and families of cows. The four luxury tents offer all the pros of camping with few of the cons. Tents are spacious and have running water, a large and comfy bed and a full outdoor kitchen. Best of all, the tents are already pitched and guests needn’t bring anything but food to eat and the clothes on their backs. The Swempie Honeymoon Tent, only R30 per person more than the standard tents, offers a sweeping view over the bushveld with luxurious furnishings and an oversized shower and bathtub. Book early as the Swempie tent is often reserved for weeks in advance.

Time moves slowly at B’sorah, and one of the most gratifying things to do is light a fire, sit on the deck and sip a beer while listening to frogs sing in the trickling stream. More ambitious visitors might go for a bike ride or hike, perhaps climb the small hill near the tents and watch the sun go down.

12. Stone Hill, Magaliesberg

Price: One- and two-bedroom cottages from R1400 for minimum two people. Minimum two-night stay on weekends and longer for special holidays.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 1h15
Contact: stone-hill.co.za

This 75-hectare property has eight self-catering timber cottages, each freestanding and located 20 metres or more from the next, so not quite as private as Saamrus (below), but still offering much more space than most. Each has a small fenced garden with a private outdoor shower; ‘…and here’, owner Caroline de Villiers grins as she picks up an additional handheld showerhead, ‘is the one for your dog’. She and Mark Morgan love their dogs, and they understand how difficult it is for people with four-legged children to find neat-as-a-pin accommodation that accepts and welcomes the extended family. The cottages aren’t particularly stylish or luxurious but they are scrupulously maintained and very comfortable, with thoughtful touches that include anything from plasters and earbuds to easy-to-use recycling bins and well-lit, smoke-free braais. There’s a five-kilometre trail for socialised dogs (with benches for owners to enjoy the views), a small shared pool, and the Magalies riverine area at the bottom of the property is where happy canines get muddy before heading home for that shower.

Room tip: I liked Cabbage Tree Cottage for its more private location but all share the same features: open-plan lounge with a log fireplace, well-equipped kitchen, full bathroom, shaded patio and Wi-Fi

13. Glenogle Farm, Magoebaskloof

Price: From R700 per person for two and R475 per person for four.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: 0832598321, glenogle.co.za

You’ll have three handsome horses as your neighbours at The Stables luxury self-catering cottage on Glenogle Farm. Flanked by pine forests, the stylish farmhouse has an industrial, modern feel (free Wi-Fi) and was designed by a local architect. The four-bed space is also exceptionally cosy and was built around the stables beside a grassy paddock. A beautiful spiral staircase leads upstairs to the bedrooms, from a living area sprinkled with lovely old furniture, generous leather couches and hydrangea bouquets picked from the farm gardens.

There’s also a big fireplace with plenty of firewood to keep you going on colder days, and on warmer ones there’s a dam for splashing in or to fish trout from. In season, you can pick your own berries for R50 at nearby Blueberry Heights farm, but it’s worth visiting the Mountain Café on the premises anyway for fresh, seasonal food. Go for walks or bring bikes to cycle the mountain trails.

Also read: 12 of our favourite farm stays around South Africa.

14. Wolwekrans Eco Lodge, Schoemanskloof

Price: The lodge is from R2800 for two nights. It sleeps four in two bedrooms and you can pop two kids in the lounge.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: Tel 0790370651, wolwekrans.com.

Situated on 120 hectares of bushveld on the dramatic Schoemanskloof escarpment, the two private self-catering cabins are perched high up for optimal isolation and views. The spacious two-bedroom accommodation is simple yet stylish, with crisp white linen and natural stone walls complementing the chalet’s off-the-grid profile. The landscape includes forest, with clear water springs for swimming, and sprawling acacia plains. Only high-clearance cars are recommended for the bumpy mountain road (or arrange a transfer) – pets are welcome too.

15. Kaapsehoop Horse Trails, Kaapsehoop

Price: From R330 per person to R500 per person (cottages sleep up to 12). Horse trails from R315 an hour.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: 0761080081, horsebacktrails.co.za.

It’s an hour’s drive from Nelspruit to Kaapsehoop, climbing 800 metres into the soaring pine plantations of the Drakensberg escarpment. Emerging into open fields, you’ll see the first free- roaming horses. Owner Christo Germishuys advocates natural horsemanship, a philosophy that requires plenty of space and uses coaxing and communication for training. Riders as young as six are welcome on his guided one-hour trail, with longer excursions available for experienced riders. The farm itself is scattered with seemingly ancient equine artefacts, some conceivably discarded for generations, others maybe just set aside for later use. These continue inside the four charming cottages, with old kit vying for wall space above solid farmhouse furnishings. Each cottage is equipped for self-catering, but be sure to have at least one meal at the Gypsy Caravan Café, where chef Mike Kay serves delicious 10 meals on his fabulous sunset stoep.

16. Stone Tin Lodge, Dullstroom

Price: From R2800 per night for six people.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3h30
Contact: stonetinlodge.co.za.

Sunlight streams in warming Stone Tin Lodge during the day and come nightfall, a large central fireplace heats up the open-plan lounge, dining and kitchen area, which is tastefully decorated with pale wood finishings, navy fabrics and Nguni-skin rugs. Set on a private farm about 30 kilometres on the Lydenburg side of Dullstroom, this spacious three-bedroom country home overlooks two trout-filled dams surrounded by rolling hills and is completely off the grid, running primarily from solar energy and gas (there’s a generator too, just in case).

Each room in this corrugated iron and stone retreat has a basket filled with thick blankets, an en-suite loo, and the main room has a gorgeous ball-and-claw bath. Throw a fishing line, look for blesbok, black wildebeest and zebra on an easy hike or if it’s really cold out, surf DStv, snuggle on the couch and take in a movie. The road is not suitable for low-slung sedans and get supplies from Dullstroom on your way. Pack filter coffee for the Bodum French press, bubble bath, firewood or bring cash to buy from the very obliging farm managers for R50 a bag.

Also read: 13 brilliant accommodation finds in Dullstroom.

17. Wooly Bugger Farm, Tonteldoos

Price: Half Hog from R600 (sleeps two); Sedgehog from R1050 (sleeps four); Ginger Quill and Blue Dunn from R1200 (sleeps six adults, or four adults and four children). Minimum two-night stay.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: woollybuggerfarm.co.za

Unless you’re in a 4×4 you’ll curse the road to Woolly Bugger – 22 kilometres of bumpy dirt to the one-donkey village of Tonteldoos, and another seven kilometres beyond – but within minutes of arriving at your stone cottage, breathing in the big 360-degree views, the resentment dissolves.

I loved everything about Woolly Bugger (referring to the most commonly used fishing fly, though there are plenty of sheep about too): just four rustic, simply furnished cottages share the 270-hectare farm, each located for privacy and views, and surrounded by wild cabbage trees and proteas. You’re left to enjoy the peace but any requests are seen to by Jono, a warm, intuitive host who recently completed a small, communal, shaded dining area replete with braai, toilets and a circular splash pool with built-in seating – the ideal gathering spot if you’ve booked more than one cottage.

There are plenty of walking and bike trails, two trout dams (with kit to hire), archery, a treasure hunt for kids and there’s even a couple of pub options in Tonteldoos. It’s pet-friendly too. And then there’s the price…

Cottage tip: Half Hog is the most affordable, romantic bolthole you could hope to find; I also loved Hedgehog, with its slide-and-fold door that opens onto expansive views.

18. Cpirit Country Haven, Dullstroom

Price:  Studios are from R875 (sleep two); Fisherman’s Cottage 1 is from R2600 (sleeps six); Fisherman’s Cottage 7 is from R1750 (sleeps six); Barn House is from R3500 (sleeps eight). If you book two nights you can stay a third on the house (this does not include long weekends and T&Cs apply). Serviced daily.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: cpirit.co.za

Seven clicks down the bumpy road to Tonteldoos, and a further one-kilometre drive into the farm before these pretty cottages hove into view. Bar perhaps the large open-plan Barn House, which could prove tricky to heat in winter, the Cpirit cottages are very compact and cosy. All are dressed in the same strong, simple decor theme of stoep-red and gunmetal-grey offset with touches of white, deep red, chocolate brown and stone.

With rickety staircases or steps into unexpected spaces, there is an overall rustic, boho charm that won’t suit city slickers who like finessed finishes, or couch potatoes (no TV, but fireplaces aplenty). Fisherman’s Cottages 1 and Barn House are set apart from the original farmhouse, which has been converted into four studio suites.

Along with adjacent Fisherman’s Cottage 7, these four studios share a fairly intimate space, so ideally (though not necessarily) should be booked with friends. Book all seven and the farm us yours: a great venue for 28 guests, with a covered outdoor lapa, a function shed with a large open fireplace, two dams and peaches, pears, figs, plums, crab apples or walnuts to forage for in season.

Room tip: Compact Fisherman’s Cottage 7 (two upstairs bedrooms, one downstairs bedroom, all sharing one bathroom) is a good-value family option. If you are two couples, I’d book Studio 4 and 5 which face the view.

19. Fairview Towers, Clarens

Price: From R450 per person, minimum R1800 a night
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3h30
Contact: fairviewestates.co.za

Ever seen a fluffy South American alpaca? Or watched a flock of these llama-like animals grazing from the towering top of a renovated grain silo? Time to skirt the Maluti Mountains, behold the highlands encircling Fairview Estates – a mere half-hour drive from Fouriesburg – and unpack your bags. An eighteen-month overhaul and plenty of angle grinder blades later, two sturdy silos that once stored cattle feed were cleverly joined with red face brick and transformed into a four-storey holiday home. The towers sleep eight people in two master bedrooms containing queen-sized beds sheathed in white percale linen with electric blankets. The kids bunk on the ground floor. A wooden staircase spirals up the left side of the cylindrical silo, climbing past the bedrooms and homely open plan kitchen/living area toward a magnificent outdoor lapa equipped with a gas braai, pub-style bench and astonishing hilly views.

20. Her Majesty’s Apology, Harrismith

Price: R300 per person and R150 for kids over five (sleeps six). Single guests only pay R300.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: 0827571310, sleeping-out.co.za

Set in a gorgeous garden filled with flowers, this renovated sandstone farmhouse is a real beauty just 17 kilometres off the N3. It was burnt down during the Anglo-Boer War and rebuilt as part of British post-war reparations, hence the great name. Each room has a mesh-covered door leading onto the shady, vine-covered stoep and the whole place is cared for with fresh flowers displayed in each room.

The bright and airy farm kitchen overlooks a cattle field and horse harrumphing nearby, but host Angie Bester can also provide fresh home-made meals or a picnic basket I eagerly had seconds and thirds of her creamy savoury tart and mango salad. Angie also knows the best mountain-bike routes nearby, with scenic options on old farm roads and more technically challenging ones.

21. Highlands Mountain Retreat, Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Price: From R1400 for two people.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: Tel 0582550962, sanparks.co.za.

Highlands Mountain Retreat is perched right at the top, 2200 metres above sea level. Comprising just eight units – four family units sleeping four each and four units sleeping two each – these log cabins are tucked into the hills, providing seclusion and unbelievable vistas. All have a fireplace, oil heaters, electric blankets and, during my stay, zebra trotted up the hillside at dusk.

Also read: 16 mountain cabins for getting far, far away.

22. Basotho Cultural Village, Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Price: From R870 for two people.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: sanparks.org.

The Basotho Cultural Village lies on the eastern side of Golden Gate and is quieter than other camps being off the main transit road. It also has excellent views over the plains, which are commonly inundated with Springbok and Blesbok herds. Kick off your weekend with an expertly guided one-hour horse ride. The trail winds through grassland, crossing streams and trotting up small hillocks. Capable guides cater to all riding abilities so don’t worry if you’re not a pro! Animals you’re likely to see on the ride include Black wildebeest and Burchell’s zebra. Keep yours eyes peeled for butterflies to see how many different ones you can spot – 78 species have been recorded!

23. Yvonne’s House, Ficksburg

Price: From R1000 per night (sleeps four to five).
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3 hours
Contact: rosendalinfo.co.za/yvonnes-house

You don’t need to know who Yvonne Short is (a food fundi and author of Kitchen Safari) to know that Yvonne’s House has been built and equipped by someone who loves to cook. The kitchen is huge, embracing most of the living area that it overlooks. Beyond, through the large window-walls is the scenic valley and farm dam backdropped by mountains.

Yvonne’s House was designed by architect Daniel van der Merwe, the man co-credited with leading the charge to Rosendal some 15 years ago (along with actor Chris van Niekerk). A compact version of the contemporary barn-style architecture that Australians such as Glenn Murcutt are so good at, this is a simple, well-proportioned pitch-roofed house with a deep veranda. Yvonne spared no expense on her interiors, which are elegant and comfortable, and the dining room and views invite long, lazy luncheons with friends. The house accommodates four (two bedrooms on either side of the house), plus an extra guest in the lounge. If you want to increase the size of your dinner party, call Elmo Goosen (0827761310), who handles rentals for most of the best houses in Rosendal.

24. Dragon Peaks, Champagne Valley

Price: From R570 per person.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 4h10
Contact: dragonpeaks.com.

Set in the charming Champagne Valley this sprawling, family-owned mountain resort effuses a relaxed and casual holiday atmosphere, where regulars come back every year to unwind. Home to the Drakensberg Boys Choir too, the 1000-acre resort has just completed the addition of 16 fresh self-catering units. Modern, but simple with slick finishes the new open-plan, self-catering apartments are generous on space, facilities (like gas stoves and flat screen televisions) and views – number 132 has the very best though, with an un-obscured look at the dramatic Cathkin Peak.

All units are perched on a lake and you can hear the Red-knobbed coot and other water birds splashing about in the reeds going after small bass. It’s peaceful, save for the trotting of horses with excited riders bobbing on their backs, and there’s an easy riverside walk close by. The resort has also invested in solar panels to supplement electricity on fair weather days. It’s the kind of place where you can do as much, or as little as you like with hikes, tubing and pools, but I highly recommend taking the scenic helicopter flight if you can afford to treat yourself (R950 per person).

25. Berghouse and Cottages, Bergville

Price: From R495 per person self-catering, R630 per person B&B or R820 per person DBB.
Travel time from Joburg city centre: 3h15
Contact: wberghouse.co.za.

Vaughn and Chantal Piccione offer you the best of both worlds: a well-equipped cottage – decorated for comfort and with country charm – along with the option of having the most delicious breakfasts and dinners delivered piping hot to your terrace or fireside dining table. This combination – the privacy and space of your own cottage, together with the service you’d get from a well-run guest house – is a winner, along with the easy hospitality of the Piccione family.

You could spend the day just lolling around your cottage (très romantic, with double beds in front of log fireplaces), enjoying the occasional visit from the free-roaming miniature horses, but the 500-hectare estate beckons seven kilometres of river frontage, three dams, plenty of trails and fabulous mountain views in every direction.
Cottage tip All eight cottages are delightful but Phezulu (sleeps two) and Thokomala (sleeps 12) have the added benefit of the most unimpeded mountain views.