See the best nature has to offer on a day trip to one of the spectacular national parks across South Africa.

Ideally, you want to spend plenty of time immersed in these incredible wild places, but these 10 South African national parks all have excellent day visitor facilities, like picnic areas, game drives and other activities if you’re staying nearby.

Plus, in celebration of Heritage Month you can access these parks for free between 18 and 22 September 2017 – check the SANParks website for exceptions, such as Boulders Beach.

Ed’s note: Gate times published here are valid in September and change seasonly; the conservation fees listed are for South African citizens; SANParks implements a price increase from 31 October 2017, please check the rates before you travel. 

1. Kruger National Park

Leopards are fairly common sights in the trees around Skukuza. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

The world-renowned Kruger National Park offers amazing wildlife experiences for South Africans. There’s plenty to see in the park, which boasts an impressive number of species: 336 trees, 49 fish, 34 amphibians, 114 reptiles, 507 birds and 147 mammals.  The south can be pretty busy, but is more accessible and productive for day visitors as sightings tend to be better. All the main rest camps have day visitor areas and there are also many beautiful picnic spots (bring some cash to hire a skottel for a great brekkie), plus viewpoints where visitors can stretch their legs.

Whether you like to tick off the big five or chill out and watch the birds at Kruger’s peaceful bird hides. This is still one of the easiest places for an injection of bushveld bliss. Read everything you need to know about day visits to the Kruger here.

Conservation fee: R76 per person and R38 for children.
Gate times: 06:00 – 18:00
Do this: A walking trail in Kruger is the best way to make the bush come alive. There are three walking trails for day visitors to Kruger.
Closest town: Nelspruit is 70km away and Hazyview is 60km from Skukuza Gate.
Stay here: Getaway’s top-rated accommodation in White River and Hazyview.
Also read: The best Kruger campsites from north to south.

2. Camdeboo National Park

In Camdeboo, a short, 1,5-kilometre hiking trail joins the best viewpoints over the Valley of Desolation. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

You could easily be in and out of the 195 square kilometre Camdeboo National Park in half a day, but the park is open past sunset on weekends for the express purpose of watching the sunset at the Valley of Desolation. Watch the pastel pink light fade as Graaff-Reinet flickers to life beautifully in the valley below. One of South Africa’s smallest national parks, historical Karoo buildings lie within sight of herds of plains game, harking back to a time when the Karoo’s wild animals would walk through town. They still sometimes do.

Conservation fee: R35 per person and R17 for children.
Gate times: 06:30 – 19:00
Do this: Try the Driekoppe 4X4 trail and spot Cape mountain zebra, klipspringer and mountain reedbuck on the way.
Closest town: Graaf Reinet is 5km away.
Stay here: Guide to Graaf-Reinet accommodation.
Also read: Off the N2: a road trip to visit five national parks joining CT to PE.

3. Table Mountain National Park

Penguins at Cape Point, Table Mountain National Park. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The Table Mountain National Park stretches 70km from Signal Hill all the way to Cape Point and also includes Boulders in Simon’s Town, Silvermine, Tokai and Oudekraal. Signal Hill and Lion’s Head are popular outings and offer excellent views of the city and harbour. It is from here that the noon day gun marks 12:00 in Cape Town.

The Cape Point Nature Reserve also forms part of the Table Mountain National Park. Take a brisk walk or catch the funicular railway to the very edge of the continent. The kids will love the shipwreck trail, too, where they’ll find the remains of some of the 26 ships that came to a watery end on the shores. Diaz Beach is also worth a visit. This unbelievably beautiful beach is dramatically surrounded by cliffs. Swimming can be a bit dangerous here, but it’s a good spot for photography and secluded romance.

Conservation fee: R135 per person and R70 for children.
Gate times: 07:00 – 17:00
Do this: DIY multi-day hike on Table Mountain and scramble up Lion’s Head.
Closest town: Cape Town is 70km away.
Stay here: 12 blissful seaside spots in Kalk Bay or read Getaway’s guide to Simon’s Town and Muizenberg to see our other top choices.

4. West Coast National Park

Incredible views over Langebaan Lagoon from the Uitkyk Picnic Area. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Home to the magical Langebaan Lagoon, white sandy dunes and incredible birdlife, the West Coast National Park is so close to the city it’s an effortless day trip from Cape Town. The park hosts a total of 250 bird species and blankets of wondrous wild flowers in the winter when rainfall has been good.

The blooms are currently out now and putting on a great show. Be sure to get in early during this popular season as cars can queue for several kilometres down the N7 for entry.

Conservation fee: R70 per person and R35 for children.
Gate times: 07:00 – 19:00 (Postberg is only open in August and September, during prime flower season from 09:00 – 17:00)
Do this: Pack a picnic and while away an afternoon in Kraalbaai – you’ll feel as though you’re holidaying on an island. Explore the many rock pools along the seashore in Tsaarsbank or escape the flower crowds by exploring on a mountain bike.
Closest town: Langebaan is 10km away.
Stay here: 22 lovely spots in Paternoster.
Also read: Take a surf safari up the West Coast.

5. Garden Route National Park

Kayak and lilo along the shoreline and into the Storms River Mouth. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The Garden Route National Park is made up of three sections – Wilderness, Knysna and Tsitsikamma – and offers a variety of habitats to explore. Wild indigenous forest, beautiful coast and dark-water rivers.

In Wilderness you can canoe the Touw River, which leads to the wide Wilderness beach or meander gently alongside the Half-collared Kingfisher Trail as it stretches out toward the waterfall at the end.

There are plenty of day hikes in the Knysna section too, but it’s great for mountain biking or birding as well. Then, Tsitsikamma is where the ocean meets lands in a striking array of colours, rocks and fynbos. There’s places to snorkel, rock pools to play in and seascapes to admire.

Conservation fee: R49 per person and R24 for children.
Gate times: 07:00 – 18:00
Do this: Kayak (and lilo) up the Storms River or hike the three-kilometre coastal trail to a waterfall that cascades into a dark pool of fresh water before trickling into the sea.
Also read: 10 adventure activities on the Garden Route.
Closest town: Storms River Village is 15km away.
Stay here: Use this guide to Storms River to find our top stays.

6. Mokala National Park

Expect to see giraffe, eland, gemsbok and nyala in Mokala National Park. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Mokala National Park is about 70 kilometres from Kimberley and is best known for harbouring endangered species like sable, roan and tsessebe, aardvark and the tiny aardwolf. Mosu Lodge offers four game drives each day: in the early morning, during the day, at sunset and at night, and there’s an option to view old rock engravings that are about 2000 years old. Mosu Restaurant is at the back end of the main Mosu Lodge on the vast expanse of grass overlooking the parklands, and there are tortoises walking about. The good old Russian and chips is a winner., but if that’s not for you, there’s loads to choose from off the à la carte menu. Pre-booking is advised.

Conservation fee: R37 per person and R18 for children.
Gate times: 07:00 – 18:00
Do this: If you’re keen on culture and heritage, get a guide to take you to see San rock art in the park.
Also read: 5 things everyone should do at Mokala Nataional Park.
Closest town: Kimberly is 90km away.
Stay here: One of our journos went camping for the first time in Mokala National Park – why not try it?

7. Augrabies Falls National Park

The Augrabies Falls at sunset. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

There’s a distinct calm and isolation about the desert areas in South Africa, but Augrabies is the one place where water cuts right through it all and makes an almighty noise about it. A rambling trail at the main rest camp links a series of viewpoints to see the Orange River in full flow and after that, be sure to explore the rest of the park. Drive downriver and witness the calmness of the river in the stunning Oranjekom Gorge.

Conservation fee: R37 per person and R18 for children.
Gate times: 07:00 to 18:00
Do this: Gaze over the falls and then drive between the other viewpoints – you’re sure to spot giraffe, springbok and more on the way.
Closest town: Kakamas is 27km away.
Stay here: Use this insider’s guide to Kakamas to find the best accommodation.

8. Marakele National Park

Dirt roads and mighty mountains at Marakele National Park. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Did you know you can see the Big Five at Marakele National Park? The Waterberg Mountain range stretches all the way into the park and it’s one of the best places to gaze up at the cliffs and catch sight of the raptors swooping around the Cape vulture colony. It’s also one of the only places in the area that day visitors can self-drive in Big Five territory.

Conservation fee: R44 per person and R22 for children.
Gate times: 06:00 – 16:00
Do this: Arrange in advance and kick off your day visit with a morning walk at 06:00 (R325 per person) and then spend the day spotting game. Don’t miss the gorgeous winding drive up to the Lenong viewpoint where Cape vultures swirl up high.
Closest town: Thabazimbi is 15km away.
Stay here: Use this guide to the Waterberg to find affordable bushveld stays nearby.

9. Addo Elephant National Park

A young lioness yawns in the morning light in the Colchester section of Addo. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Addo’s Main Game Area and Colchester Section are the regions that most people think about when envisioning the park. Together they are roughly 24000 hectares and this is the place to see elephant hoards (in future, some of the ellies will also be moved to other sections of the park).

Other special sights include naturally tusk-less elephants, the Addo flightless dung beetles and caracals. You’ll also see kudu in numbers as large as the herds of impala in Kruger, and an abundance of warthog snuffling about on their knees.

There are no bins in the visitor areas of the parks so travel with your own rubbish bags to deter rodents.

Conservation fee: R62 per person and R31 for children.
Gate times: 07:00 – 18:30
Do this: Visit the Underground Hide and Interpretation Centre at Addo Main Camp and book a hop-on guide. Take a drive to Carol’s Rest and then to Hapoor Dam with Simnikiwe Nogaya in your vehicle. Simni has worked in the park since 2000 and will share everything he knows about the park – and knows how to find the predators.
Also read: Do the best elephant-spotting route in Addo.
Closest town: Colchester is just 3km away. 
Stay here: There are 14 fantastic stays near Addo.

10. Golden Gate Highlands National Park

The mighty Brandwag at Golden Gate Highlands National Park. Photo by Jonathan Gill.

Nestled in the rolling foothills of the Maluti Mountains of the north eastern Free State lies the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. The Free State’s only national park, Golden Gate Highlands National Park is currently also the only national park proclaimed to protect the grassland biome. It’s also perfect for travellers heading from Joburg, Durban or Bloem, sitting just a three hour drive from either of these city centres.

Conservation fee: R44 per person and R22 for children.
Gate times: Office hours are from 07:00 – 17:00 to buy permits.
Do this: Walking is the best way to appreciate this park and feel the scale of this mountainous paradise. There are plenty of day hike options leaving from Glen Reenen Rest Camp.
Closest town: Clarens is 20km away.
Stay here: 5 great places to stay in Clarens.
Also read: Why Clarens is the perfect escape.

How do you capture images of the Big Five that are original and striking?

Our photographer Teagan Cunniffe gives some tips on how to nail these shots.

1. Elephants

Storms approach the wide open grassy plains of the Masai Mara, engulfing the landscape with dramatic skies, dwarfing the massive elephant cow and her calf. Photo by Mark Dumbleton, check out more of his photographs on Instagram.

Ellies bring an extraordinary presence to any environment they inhabit or traverse. A good way to capture this is to use a wide-angle lens and shoot from a low-angle upwards. Alternatively, zoom in on their eyes, ears and trunk ‒ ellies have fantastic texture to their skin, allowing you to create abstract yet intimate portraits (Prelena Soma Owen’s image does this well). Emphasise the texture in post-production by increasing the clarity slider slightly. Elephants have semi-predictable routines so ask the camp manager or ranger where and when they are likely to amble down to a specific waterhole.

Also read: Walking wild with Namibia’s wise giants.

Best locations for photographing elephants

Chobe National Park, Kruger National Park, Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park, Addo Elephant National Park, Hwange National Park.

2. Buffaloes

Taken in Kruger, black and white makes for a moody shot of a buffalo. Photo by Rudi van den Heever.

The dark hide of buffaloes is tricky to expose, so shoot in RAW and set your exposure compensation to underexpose slightly. Then use post-processing to push shadows and recover highlights. A herd of buffaloes is great for one thing in particular: dust. Use a wide-angle to shoot large groups milling around at a waterhole or walking through the veld in the early morning and late afternoon. Position yourself to shoot into the sun to create a backlighting effect through the rising dust.

Best locations for photographing buffaloes

Chobe National Park, Kruger National Park.

3. Leopards

A sublime shot of an elegant leopard. Photo by Ross Couper. Find more of his photos on Instagram.

These beautiful cats are nocturnal and, unless you’re very lucky, are probably going to be the last animal you tick off the list. They’re active towards dusk and dawn and favour hanging out in trees, making for stunning sunset shots. Use a wide aperture to gather as much of the dim light as you can, and set a relatively high shutter speed in preparation ‒ leopards move quickly and sightings can be brief (push your ISO up to compensate, but watch out for too much grain in the image). Switch to spot metering and set your focus on the leopard itself to avoid underexposing the image and turning the leopard into a silhouette. At night, similar settings apply and you can experiment with vehicle spotlights. As far as possible, avoid shooting with a shutter speed slower than your focal length (the reciprocal rule), as this will cause camera shake.

Best locations for photographing leopards

Sabi Sands Game Reserve, iSimangaliso Wetland Park, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Kruger National Park.

4. Lions

Igniting the winter winds. By Marlon du Toit. Check out more of his photos on Instagram.

Lions are charismatic subjects, whether in profile, interacting with their prides or staring directly at you. Dusk is the best time for action ‒ during the day you’re likely to find them snoozing in the shade, hidden by grass and bush. Use a wide-angle lens (focal length of 50mm and wider) to catch them moving about, or a telephoto lens (focal length longer than 200mm) to capture interactions. If a lion is looking at you, shoot from eye level to maximise the connection of its stare. To further emphasise it, open your aperture to f/4 or wider to blur the background.

Also read: The experts’ guide to spotting big cat in South Africa.

Best locations for photographing lions

Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, Kruger National Park, Okavango Delta.

5. Rhinos

Rhino are a common sighting in Khama Rhino Sanctuary, where they are fiercely protected by the Botswana Defence Force. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Rhinos are wonderful, bulky creatures so give them context by including their environment in the shot. Be sure to add space in your frame for the rhino to ‘move into’. This will provide visual relief and balance your composition. Rhinos have limited eyesight (but excellent hearing), making them good animals to approach downwind and photograph on foot ‒ only with a trained guide, of course. If your DSLR has it, select ‘Silent’ single-frame mode over high-speed ‘Burst’ mode for less disturbance, and if you’re using a point-and-shoot or a smartphone, silence all sound effects.

Tip: Hire – don’t buy

The only thing longer than a telephoto lens is its price tag. Before (or instead of) buying a long lens, consider hiring first. Africa Photographic Services and Foto Rental offer competitive rates for hiring ‒ you can pick up a Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L from R240 per day (depending on the length of rental).

This story first appeared in the December 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our December issue features 5 awesome summer adventures in South Africa. 

With International Coastal Cleanup Day (16 September 2017) and National Marine Week (10-15 October 2017) around the corner, it’s time to find ways to be better to our seas.

Saving our oceans starts at home. Whether it’s minimising plastic-use, recycling or volunteering on coastal conservation projects, here are seven ways to help protect the ocean.

1. Reduce plastics

Plastic takes more than 400 years to break down. Photo by pixi acid.

Going plastic-free might be easier said than done, but we found some practical ways to start cutting down:

• Say goodbye to straws. Marine animals are prone to choking on these plastic pipes because they resemble food. Decline them in restaurants (some dining establishments don’t even offer straws anymore) and try paper straws or longer lasting stainless steel straws instead.
• Bring your own mug to your favourite coffee shop or pitstop on a road trip. It might seem embarrassing at first, but more people are asking for coffee served in their own mugs instead. Try using this colourful ECoffee Cup made from biodegradable bamboo fibres.
• Get a reusable shopping bag. The kitchen drawer (a.k.a the plastic bag storage facility) can be a thing of the past. Woolworths has reusable bags from as little as R15.
• Avoid pre-packaged fresh produce. Either carry a reusable bag to place your fruit and vegetables in or have them delivered to your door in a box. The Munching Mongoose  in Joburg and the Oranjezicht City Farm Market in Cape Town specialise in box deliveries of organic produce. Capetonians can also try Wild Organics . Otherwise Eat Your Home  caters to most suburbs in Durban and their products are all sourced locally.
• Buy in bulk and commit to using refillable containers. If you want to go the extra mile, make your own cleaning products. Good Housekeeping has some simple recipes to guide you.
• Buy environmentally friendly packaging. GreenHome offer their services in Cape Town, Johannesburg, Port Elizabeth and Durban and sell biodegradable products like cutlery, plates, cups, takeaway containers and toilet paper. This great eco-friendly store, Faithful to Nature, also delivers these items.

2. Recycle

Recycling and re-using plastic is better for the planet and job employment. Image by Nicolas Raymond.

You definitely saw this one coming. The fact is that South Africa’s landfill sites are running out of space and recycling is something we should all be determined to do. Plastics in landfills are dangerous because they release methane in large amounts and a number of toxins, which later leach into water systems. You’ve also probably heard that by 2050 there will be more plastic than fish in the sea.

Recycling plastic can get a little complicated, but there are a few services you can rely on to easily get the job done. EcoMonkey and Whole Earth in Joburg provide collection services for recycling material. In Cape Town, Clearer Conscience also fetches recyclable matter from your doorstep and Greencycle in Port Elizabeth collects most recyclable items and take most kinds of plastic.

3. Choose a sustainable fish dish

Snoek, South Africa’s favourite braai fish has been given the green light by SASSI because of stable stock levels. Prawns on the other hand have an orange status and shouldn’t be eaten.

The Southern African Sustainable Seafood Initiative (SASSI) provides solutions to unsustainable fishing practices. Use their colour-coded seafood guide so you know what sustainable seafood to choose (green traffic light) or avoid (red traffic light). It’s really user-friendly and you can either use their FishMS service or download the SASSI app or pocket guide. If you love your seafood, you’ve got to love the ocean too.

4. Participate in a beach clean-up

Over 8 million kilograms of rubbish around the world was collected during the 2016 International Coastal Cleanup. Photo by Fabi Fliervoet.

International Coastal Cleanup Day is on 16 September and this year, the Getaway team will be at Muizenberg to help rid the shores of trash. The WESSA Tourism Blue Flag project and the Let’s Do It! Africa waste awareness campaign are running and supporting 22 registered cleanup events. All you need to do is find the one nearest to you! For more details, read: how to help our seas on International Coastal Cleanup Day.

5. Learn about SA’s Hope Spots

False Bay Hope Spot has plenty of pools to explore sea life; Hope Spots are not only about the sea life but the entire coastal ecosystem. Photos by Teagan Cunniffe.

A Hope Spot is a special conservation area vital to the health of the ocean. There are six in South Africa: Aliwal Shoal (KZN), Algoa Bay (Eastern Cape), Plettenberg, Knysna, the Cape Whale Coast and False Bay. They are part of a global network of about 70 ocean areas that, because of their ecological value, require protection from harmful practices. South Africa has plenty of opportunities to get involved in conservation efforts concerning these important Hope Spots.

Also read: Marine conservation: how you can get involved

6. Volunteer 

African penguins are currently highly endangered and populations are decreasing quickly. Photo by flowcomm.

SAMREC (SA Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre) in Port Elizabeth allows volunteers to rise through the ranks by going from cleaning windows to supervising the feeding and cleaning of penguins. At the Two Oceans Aquarium (Cape Town), you can become an ocean ambassador and teach visitors about our coastlines plants and animals. There’s also the opportunity to become a volunteer scuba diver. uShaka Sea World also needs aquarium volunteers on weekdays. Want to join up? Responsibilities include preparing food and cleaning tanks and exhibit areas.

7. Show appreciation to marine environments

‘In the end, people are only going to protect what they love’, says David de Villiers of Ocean Adventurer. See more in the video below.

Once you get to know something, it’s easier to appreciate it – and you’ll want to do something to protect it. So, spend time in an aquarium or make plans to see one of the ocean’s most epic migrations. The Hermanus Whale Festival is on from 29 September to 1 October. Look out for their Eco-Marine Village, which will have amazing interactive displays from volunteers, marine biologists and other scientists. If you happen to go past Gansbaai, stop at the African Penguin and Seabird Sanctuary – there is no entrance fee!

Any other great ideas? We’d love to know.

For photojournalist, Samantha Reinders, Kathmandu is as striking as the first time she visited 15 years ago.

She reveals the allure of Nepal’s capital and tells us about the magic that keeps taking her back.

Over and above the busy scenes Boudhanath are thousands of pigeons. Buddhist practitioners feed them seeds every morning as offerings to acquire good karma. Photo by Sam Reinders.

Namaste from Nepal. It’s New Year’s Day. And the year is 2073 (according to Nepal’s lunar calendar). I just realised it’s my 15-year anniversary of coming to this teeny-tiny kingdom. (Remember that time I visited in 2001 for two weeks and stayed a year? I guess this place still hasn’t lost its grip on me…)

Kathmandu is an imperfect Shangri-La. There’s prettiness, yes. But also nasty pollution and poverty and traffic like you’ve never seen. Yet there is something about the absurd interface of East and West that draws me in. That, and the fact that it’s easy on my wallet! Most tourists come here just to trek. For me the beauty is in the pulse of the city.

Over the years I’ve learnt it’s advisable to ease yourself into Kathmandu. And this time I spent my first day finding a tea shop and just sitting and watching. Thamel, the area where I’m staying, is a tourist hotspot – a UN without the suits. It’s convenient but it’s not the real Kathmandu. So I walked south, away from the shops selling knock-off North Face fleeces and sidestepping Tiger Balm salesmen.

From my spot, the sweet tea rushing through my veins and my jet lag giving way to that familiar feeling of excitement, I watched the world go by: people walk past the ubiquitous small Hindu shrines, put their hand to head and scoop up a blessing; an old lady has her toenails cut by a vendor, an entire family (dog included) putters past on a motorbike, a man carries a load three times his size on his doubled-over back and a skinny-legged-yoga-mat-toting tourist looks lost.

There’s hooting, spitting, haggling and the sizzling of ghee as a lady drops a load of sel rotis (doughnuts) into a cauldron the size of a Smart car. A teenager pops a wheelie and a monk wearing Converse kicks saunters past. I’m back!

That afternoon I headed up to Swayambhunath. It’s a Buddhist stupa (massive white dome topped by a gold block with the Buddha’s huge haunting eyes painted on it) that sits on a hill to the west of the city. It’s one of Kathmandu’s most recognisable symbols. Ancient lore tells a story of the bodhisattva who originally raised the hill. His long locks were infested with lice. Said lice transformed, so the story goes, into the hundreds of monkeys that roam the temple complex.

Swayambhunath is one of Nepal’s oldest religious sites. Photo by Sam Reinders.

I’m all for old tales but I suspect the cheeky buggers just hang around to eat the rice and fruit that devotees leave as offerings. There are 365 steps to get up to the temple, each one rounded from centuries of pilgrims’ feet making their way to the top to send prayers to the gods. Monkeys hang from the prayer flags that guide you upwards (and help take your mind off your aching thighs). At the top a low hum of prayer – ‘Om Mani Padme Hum’ – is broken by the flapping of those flags and the sound of metal prayer wheels spinning on their axes, sending their hopes skywards.

The view is amazing. It feels like you’re floating above the chaos and fumes. In my 15 years of coming here, it was the cleanest I’d seen the air. Set against a brilliant blue sky I got a 360-degree view of the snow-covered Himalayan peaks. I could pick out Lantang and Everest…

Monkeys hang out and groom each other at Swayambhunath, which is called Monkey Temple (for good reason). Photo by Sam Reinders.

I took my shoes off to enter a monastery where a ceremony was in full swing. It was dark, with beams of light sneaking through cracks in the window shutters. Monks, aged from five to those who looked 95, knelt in red robes, their faces lit by the light of hundreds of butter lamps. Ancient scriptures on rectangular parchment lay in front of them. They chanted to a backdrop of groaning long horns, clanging cymbals and the shrill of trumpets made from conch shells. It smelt of yak butter and incense.

Back in Thamel, falling asleep had its own unique soundtrack: 80s cover songs, barking dogs and roosters with insomnia.

On Wednesday I took a taxi out to Boudhanath. It’s like Swayambhunath on steroids and one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist monuments outside of Tibet. The area around it has been a magnet for Tibetan exiles since the late 1950s. Getting out of the taxi, you feel like you’re in a different country altogether. The Tibetan flag whips in the wind, most people are in full Tibetan dress and you’ll struggle to hear Nepalese. For the best momos in Kathmandu (dumplings filled with veggies or water buffalo meat – equally delicious and addictive), this is the place.

Sunset from Swayumbunath stupa is one of the finest in the city. Photo by Sam Reinders.

Boudhanath was severely damaged in the 2015 earthquake and today was the official opening of the newly whitewashed, freshly flagged stupa. The usually crowded place had swollen into a moving torrent. I was practically lifted from the taxi and hardly felt my feet touch the ground as I moved around the stupa with the snake of people.

Lamas from around the world sat on the dome and the important ones (those with bodyguards – they are the Beyonces of Buddhism) delivered blessings. I retreated to the Café du Temple, one of the rooftop restaurants that surround the stupa, and took it all in from above the melee. A Buddha Air flight left a jet trail in the crisp November air and hundreds of kites danced from the city’s rooftops.

Monks outnumber ordinary citizens in this part of town. Tall ones, short ones, fat ones, thin ones, old ones, young ones and, well, ones of varying degrees of austerity. Some prostrate (throw themselves to the ground in worship) – a sight, which if you are not expecting it, can be a little alarming! Others take selfies. Meditating, giggling, chanting and cappuccino drinking happen in equal measure.

On my way back I explored the maze of monasteries around the main stupa. In a flurry of excitement and universal hand gesturing, a cricket ball was thrown my way and I was asked to join a group of pint-sized monks on a makeshift pitch. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t let South Africa down a little. I was knocked out of the park. Or, in this case, the monastery walls.

During Laxmi Puja, fireworks pop, bars turn up the music and kids in traditional dress sing and dance to give blessings to shop owners. Photo by Sam Reinders.

By Thursday I was a little templed out and decided to rather walk. One of my favourite things about Kathmandu is that even after 15 years I am still able to get horribly lost. The sensory overload can override even the best navigational skills as you wander the labyrinth of alleyways and side streets.

Life beats to a different drum here. Individual daily rhythm is set to an unhurried pace, all but obsolete in today’s world. But collectively it’s a retina overload. The city is dripping in temples, tradition, superstition and mystery, colour and pandemonium – at least to the foreign eye.

I took a break at Asan Tol – the intersection of ancient trade routes. There are beggars in bandages, piles of pomegranates, sleeping rickshaw drivers, pigtailed school kids, lone cows (I saw one sneak up on a girl, causing her to squeal), heaps of marigolds, a tent where people can get tested for diabetes, yak tails for sale, flickering candles, hooting taxis, traffic officials trying (and failing) to bring calm to chaos, posters of Hendrix, Messi and Marley and steaming pots of momos on the go. It’s beautiful, beautiful chaos.

Just look out for plumes of steam emanating from the entrance of small shops for freshly steamed momo. Photo by Sam Reinders.

This past weekend was the culmination of Tihar: a five-day celebration that sees in the Newari (the people of the Kathmandu Valley) New Year. It starts with a day dedicated to worshipping the crow. While we wouldn’t give these guys a second look, in the Hindu pantheon they decide who goes on to a fortunate rebirth, and who doesn’t. The day after belongs to the dog – they ease a soul’s passage into the afterlife. It doesn’t matter how matted or mangy, dogs wander the streets with garlands of marigolds around their necks and splashes of bright red tika powder on their foreheads.

Then it’s the cow. They’re revered all year round (kill one of them and you’ll get life in prison) but on the third day of this festival they get even more attention. The evening belongs to Laxmi Puja. On this night the goddess of wealth is said to circle the globe at midnight and visit and bless the households and businesses that have prepared for her visit. And prepare they do!

Homes are scrubbed; lamps, candles and garlands of flowers are placed at windows and above doors. Outside, intricate mandalas are drawn using coloured powders, flower petals, fruits, oils and candles. From there a pathway is made leading to where the valuables are kept, thereby sanctifying every spot where Laxmi will tread. She’ll bring wealth for the coming year, hopefully…

Mounds of iridescent tika powders for sale. They are mixed with oil and used to mark animals or people as commemoration. Photo by Sam Reinders.

It’s a sight to behold and makes you feel like an actor in a movie on fast forward. Groups of kids roam from door to door singing traditional songs, receiving money or sweets for their efforts. Fireworks explode, followed by shrieks of laughter and giggling the sound of pure childhood bliss. Processions of people dance through the maze of streets, banging on drums, playing flutes and singing at the tops of their voices.

Though I’d experienced it all before, it still made me feel like a child celebrating Christmas, Guy Fawkes, Halloween and Thanksgiving all in one giddy moment. Overwhelmed, I dipped into Tom and Jerry’s, my favourite bar in Thamel. It was empty except for my friends behind the counter and a lone German tourist. I ordered a hot rum punch (in itself, worth a visit to Kathmandu) and a few kids came in.

I presumed they’d sing one of their songs and be on their way. Instead they handed the barman a CD. And then Swedish pop sensations the Vengaboys blasted from the speakers. The children jiggled and jived and motioned to the German to join in the dance. He pointed at me and said he would if I would. There was no way out… And so it was that on a chilly New Year’s Eve in Kathmandu I found myself dancing with a group of 10 year olds, a German tourist and a gap- toothed waiter, to the Vengaboys!

Today, a Sunday, the festivities take place at home and most businesses are closed. An eerie silence engulfs the city and it feels like Kathmandu is hung over. I’ve retreated to the Garden of Dreams – a small public park in the middle of city. It’s usually filled with teenagers taking selfies or holding hands away from the prying eyes of their parents. Today it’s just tourists like me, lazing on the grass, writing in their journals or typing on their phones. Just like I am right now…

There’s still Patan and Bhaktapur, the Kathmandu Valley’s other ancient cities, to explore, so I need to hit send and plan my next couple of days. Chat soon, Sam.

Plan your trip to Nepal

The head of the household conducts a ceremony in his home to welcome Laxmi (and the opulence she brings) for the coming year. Photo by Sam Reinders.

Getting there

Flights from Joburg or Cape Town are via Dubai, Doha, Hong Kong or Mumbai, depending on airline. From R12500 return with qatarairways.com. Arrange an airport pick-up with your guest house. From R73 per person.

When to go

October and November are high season. The weather is good (for getting views of the Himalayas), it’s the most popular time to trek and things are a little more expensive. Tihar is a festive time to be in Nepal – the dates depend on the lunar calendar and change annually (do a Google search).

Need to know

South Africans can get a visa on arrival (R425 for 15 days). There is fairly good (and free) Wi-Fi in most places but get a local SIM card (Ncell, R18) anyway. There’s an ATM on every corner. You can buy anything here you’ve forgotten at home, so pack light.

Cost

I spent R20000 on my last 10-day trip (flights included). To keep costs down book your flight well in advance, eat local food (with the odd splurge) and stay in affordable guest houses. Where possible, walk instead of taking taxis. Alcohol (especially wine and even beer) is very expensive so rather buy something at duty free on the way.

Stay here

The Thamel district of Kathmandu is overrun with accommodation, and places often look quite different from the website. Noise can be a problem. Pick a hotel off the main roads and book online in advance – it’s usually cheaper.

Shree Tibet Family Guest House has simple yet spotless rooms. There’s also a small communal rooftop terrace – great for morning coffee. Rooms from R190 for two.

Serenity Hotel, in the same street, is a step up. It’s modern, airy and away from the bustle. Rooms from R450 for two.

Do this

Buy yak socks. They’re about R60 a pair and you won’t regret it. They’re everywhere.

Visit Swayambhunath and Boudhanath. Both temples have a main structure (stupa) but exploring the smaller temples and monasteries around them is the most fun. There’s no map, just wander! Entrance is R18 per person for the day (keep your ticket handy as there is the odd spot check.

Go trekking. There are hundreds of routes in Nepal, and Kathmandu is the perfect place to acclimatise culturally before, and relax after, your trek. If you’re travelling solo keep an eye on the notice boards in Thamel for people looking for trekking partners. You’ll need a trekking permit (called a TIMS) and a permit for the area you’ll be trekking in. Both are easily available and affordable. Costs vary depending on the type of trek. I recommend speaking to Babu Sitaula at Unique Path Trekking. nepaltrekkinginfo.com

Eat here

In Thamel you’ll find any Western meal you’d find on a menu in SA, for roughly the same price. Try the local delicacies though – they’ll help your budget and are delicious (the real spots are off the main roads). Momos (steamed or fried dumplings with fillings), thukpa (Tibetan noodle soup) and dal bhat (rice and dal) are all good. Momos from R15, dal bhat from R30. Western Tandoori is a must for good Indian food. It’s on Amrit Marg road, but street names aren’t used much. Rather ask a local to direct you. Meals (that will fill you up) cost from R50.

Also read: a luxury train ride across India: Deccan decadence

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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From our ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and getting the best of Nepal; our May issue is guaranteed to inspire.

My siblings and I have a tradition: three times a year we take each other away for a birthday weekend, somewhere splendid and nurturing.

With the siblings Cathrin and Kilaan.

For two days, the birthday sib gets to live a life of luxury, pays for nothing, is cooked for (some of us fancy ourselves as gastronomists, so we like self-catering) and is waited on hand and foot. There’s something deeply curative about this, like your siblings are making up for every childhood wrong they ever did you (there’s nothing that makes my sister and I happier than when our brother is doing the washing up, for instance). The point is, the experience trumps a gift and we adore it.

The tradition is seven years in the making, and I notice the weekends are getting more extravagant. This year I turned 49. This inevitably had my mind turning to the big Five O next year. I wonder how far I can push it – the destination, not the age? (Although it’s true that when I was young, I did think 50 would be the honourable time to go.)

As we put together this issue, it struck me that every one of the featured stories is a worthy contender for my birthday experience. Here are some sentences I want to live: (from Shane Quinnell) ‘…we’re trekking through dense tropical rainforest packed with weird and wonderful creatures such as Ruwenzori turacos and bright-green three-horned chameleons.’ Oh, to see a three-horned chameleon by the time I turn 50! I want to be ‘sitting on the red oxide stoep at tea time, sipping hot masala chai, snacking on jackfruit petals and battered fried bananas’ (this courtesy of Nikki Werner in India). A 50-year-old should be living on jackfruit petals and battered fried bananas!

Then there’s this from Darrel Bristow-Bovey: ‘There’s something splendid and hallucinatorily surreal about being suspended in the warm blue with no seabed below you, enveloped in a cloud of 20 or 30 sharks, like a nucleus surrounded by a calm eccentric orbit of elongated electrons.’

I mean, what could possibly go wrong? I can just hear it at the school reunion: Do you remember Sonya Schoeman? Do you know that every last bit of her was snapped up by blue sharks as exquisite as elongated electrons on the day she turned 50?! Gasps and wide eyes all round. As editor of a travel magazine, what a damned respectable way to go. At least I will have died reading one of loveliest sentences ever written.

Enjoy this issue. I think it’s a goodie!

5 things to look out for in the October issue

Penguin portfolio

Africa’s only penguins are endangered, and we need to fight for their survival. We challenged renowned photographer David Crookes to show us their world (page 58).

Golden Gate National Park

You’d never guess how beautiful – and important – grasses are. This national park is a treasure trove, and here’s how to visit. See page 66.

Africa’s best trek

No, it’s not Kilimanjaro. It’s the awe-inspiring Rwenzori Mountains in Uganda. Turn to page 82.

Swim with sharks

This experience blew photographer Teagan Cunniffe’s mind and fired up Darrel Bristow-Bovey’s imagination (page 76).

Look out for the good-value star

Each issue of Getaway has several inexpensive accommodation options, places to stay for under R550 pp (some for less) and that we think offer good value.

This month’s contributors

Crookes & Jackson – African penguins, page 58

Photographer David Crookes and Nicola Jackson create visually striking interpretations of places, people and travel. This month they turn their lens on our penguins in Simon’s Town. ‘The colony at Boulders is an intimate wildlife experience. You are on a beautiful beach, observing an endangered species as they go about their daily habits as if you are invisible. It’s just you and the birds – no car, no boat. Incredible.’

Darrel Bristow-Bovey Blue shark diving, page 76

Darrel has been obsessed with sharks since finding a paperback copy of Jaws when he was nine years old and reading all the sex scenes. He has dived with sharks off the coast of Africa, Asia, South America, the island of St Helena and the Arabian Peninsula. He has presented his talk, ‘The Sudden Shark: Fear, Creative Living and How a Great White Saved my Life’, many times at venues around the country.

Tarryn and Shane Quinnell – Ugandan trekking, page 82

‘Team Tane’ are South African adventurers who lead the high life. Literally. In the last three months, the couple has tackled 12 000 corrugated kilometres in their Suzuki Jimny, ‘Badger’, on their latest expedition – climbing Africa’s five highest mountains, which included the Rwenzoris, where they attempted ice trekking for the first time.

Nikki Werner – India, page 90

Nikki shares a love and deep understanding of food through her writing and by cooking with people, often in her own kitchen. As Food Editor of Getaway and co-author of cook. better, her focus is terroir and technique. She recently travelled to homestays in the backwaters and jungle of Kerala, India, where she was immersed in South Indian cuisine and superbly well fed.

See more in October issue of Getaway magazine.

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The best guide to weekending in Golden Gate; how to go shark diving (without a cage); exploring the high peaks of the Rwenzoris and heritage homestays with delicious food in Kerala.

Looking for an affordable weekend break in the Karoo? These cottages and guest farms are some of our favourites and all under R500 per person per night (you might have to go with friends) and come endorsed by our Getaway journos and contributors.

Also see: 7 things to do in the Tankwa Karoo
Please note that the prices below are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before travelling.

1. Papkuilsfontein, Niewoudtville

Cost: R500 per person self-catering and a minimum R1000 per night if you are a single person.
Contact: 0272181246, papkuilsfontein.com,

Papkuilsfontein in the Northern Cape is a quintessential Karoo Farm Stay. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

There’s beauty in the stark landscape of Papkuilsfontein, a sheep and rooibos farm in the Northern Cape where Jaco and Alrie van Wyk will entertain with an arsenal of stories (ask about the time lightning struck so hard a cow had a heart attack). The family started farming here in 1838 and they have restored the historic cottages set two kilometres from the farmhouse not only to host guests, but also to leave behind another story for generations to come. Solar and wind power keep the farm running while gas powers the geyser, stove and fridge. All three cottages are fully equipped to self cater.

2. Rietpoort Herberg, Victoria West

Cost: From R330 per room, R900 for the cottage (sleeps six).
Contact: Tel 0832714663, placesforafrica.com

The house here at Rietpoort Herberg dates back to the 1800s. Photo by Jacques Marais.

This historic family farm is about 30 kilometres from Victoria West on a quiet road to Britstown, and chances are you’ll see something here you’ve never encountered before. The dolerite outcrops dotting the farm brim with petroglyphs (carved by the San) dating back to the Stone Age period. Something that really will blow your mind is the ‘Bushman’s Piano’, a stack of igneous volcanic rocks formed from silica-rich rhyolite. ‘Play’ the individual rocks with a stone and five bell-clear musical notes will resound across the Bo-Karoo plains, taking you back to a time of moonlight trance dances.

Also read: 12 of our favourite farm stays in South Africa

3. Anysberg Nature Reserve, Ladismith

Cost: Self-catering from R580 a night (sleeps two) and camping R170 a night per site.
Contact: Tel 0214830190, capenature.co.za.

Lovely off-the-grid cottages at the Anysberg Nature Reserve. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Anysberg Nature Reserve is located in the semi-arid Klein Karoo, between the towns of Ladismith, Laingsburg, Touwsrivier and Montagu. There are impeccable camping grounds under towering gum trees and five equipped self-catering cottages. Besides the mesmerising landscape and rich plant and animal life, the reserve is also home to San rock art, painted thousands of years ago and there is no cell phone reception on the reserve. All of this makes an amazing recipe for peace and solitude.

Also read: an epic route over two Karoo passes.

4. Brakdakkie, Prince Albert

Cost: From R330 per person self-catering
Contact: Tel 0835614966, karooluigi.com

Simple, but stylish interiors at Brakdakkie in Prince Albert. Photo by Christopher List.

Previously a donkey shed, tool room and dairy barn, the cottages carry their past only in the small windows and thick walls. The interiors are entirely refurbished in white for a bright, fresh feel. Each cottage has a private patio and splash pool, so it never feels like you’re on top of your neighbour. Two of the cottages sleep two people each and the third sleeps four. They have only kitchenettes, but you’ll find a list of Prince Albert’s restaurants (all about a 10-minute walk down the road) on the table when you arrive. Follow the map or simply walk down the town’s broad main road and pick one along the way.

5. Karoo Moon Motel, Barrydale

Cost: From R400 per person sharing.
Contact: Tel 0285721226, dieselandcreme.co.za

Having a little fun outside the Karoo Moon Motel in Barrydale. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

This great hotel has gorgeous themed rooms in a quirky building with many nooks to explore (Room 15 has a great bath). Situated on the iconic Route 62, photo ops abound! Hang around the rusted old fuel pumps in front of the motel and don’t leave without having a milkshake.

Also read: The Karoo on wheels: a magic route for repeat offenders.

6. Kambrokind Skrywershuisie and Saffraan Farm, Sutherland

Cost: From R395 per person sharing.
Contact: Tel 0235711481, sutherlandinfo.co.za

The church in the centre of Sutherland, not far from the Skrywershuisie. Photo by Paul Maughan-Brown.

With roughly 32 guest houses, you’re spoilt for choice in Sutherland. Kambrokind Skrywershuisie is a cosy cottage with thoughtful touches such as a hot-water bottle, electric blanket and heater – all perfect winter treats. Hosts Jurg and Rita Wagener also own a charming sandstone farmhouse called Saffraan on Middelfontein Farm just outside town if you really want to appreciate the stars!

7. Sunset View guest house and campsite, Douglas

Cost: R380 per person per night sharing for en-suite rooms, R300 a night for camping for 4 people.
Contact: Tel 0823769771, safarinow.co.za

Situated on the banks of the Vaal River just outside of Douglas, surrounded by gum trees and a lush garden with abundant birdlife. There’s a playground for children, quiet spots to relax with a river view and good fishing too (catch and release). The fully equipped guesthouse has four en-suite rooms, each with their own entrance from the garden. The grassy campsites are all between 20 and 30 metres from the river and have electricity points and braai facilities.

8. Kambro Cottage, Graaff-Reinet

Cost: R350 per person sharing.
Contact: graaffreinet.co.za

Greg Kappers offers the best deal in town: a roomy, open-plan space furnished in rustic Karoo-cottage style, with one double bed and two single beds and a combined sitting and dining room area. A narrow, equipped kitchenette leads off this but Greg, who is a very obliging host, will make you breakfast if you want, or you can stroll to the nearby restaurants and local coffee shop.
 All the essentials are here
 ‒ air conditioning, off-street parking and a private entrance ‒ at an unbelievably good rate. With only two units, it’s worth booking early.

9. No 6 Parliament, Graaff-Reinet

Cost: From R400 per person. Children under 12 R200. Kids under three free.
Contact: no6guesthouse.co.za

If you like the privacy that comes with booking your own home,
 this three-bedroom Victorian-era house, directly opposite the new entrance to the Drostdy Hotel, is your best bet. Comfortably furnished and well equipped (air conditioners in every room are a boon in summer), the house also has a private, pretty walled garden that is furnished (timber and concrete; no plastic) and offers braai facilities. Serviced daily.

10. De Kothuize, Graaff-Reinet

Cost: From R460 per person sharing (the rate lessens the more people there are).
Contact: dekothuize.co.za

De Kothuize is a real find: seven restored national monuments, each with two or three bedrooms; all located within easy strolling distance of each other and the town’s restaurants and key sights. Most feature original Cape Dutch features like built-in wall cupboards, yellowwood floors and stinkwood-detailed doors. Four of them are located in historic Parsonage Street, a tree-lined avenue bookended by the gracious gables of the Drostdy and Reinet House respectively; a further two are located in Cradock street; unit seven is around the corner in historic Middle Street. Michelle, the manageress, is very helpful. De Kothuize is pet- and child-friendly.

Room tip: 166 Cradock is a personal favourite ‒ a comfortable three-bedroom cottage with a large walled garden. But if you want a pool, book 54 Middle Street or 6 Parsonage Street (both two-bedroom cottages); the houses with pools don’t cost extra.

11. Rothman Street, Graaff-Reinet

Cost: From R420 per person sharing.
Contact: rothmanstreet.co.za

The old-fashioned accommodation, most with their own entrances, are scrupulously clean, and your hostess is the warm Judy who you’ll likely 
find in the garden or in her kitchen, cooking up her harvest into jams. All accommodation is within easy walking distance of the shops and restaurants and there is secure off-street parking.
Also read: Best biltong stops in the Karoo

12. Allemann se Huisie, Nieu-Bethesda

Cost: From R290 per person.
Contact: Tel 0498411642, safarinow.com

Small and self-contained, this cottage sits in a pleasant garden in the heart of Nieu-Bethesda. Have a delcious braai on the patio and watch the sunset before being dazzled by the famously starry night sky.

13. Matjies Motel, Matjiesfontein

Cost: From R425 per person sharing.
Contact: Tel 0235613011, matjiesfontein.com

The Union Jack flies above the Lord Milner Hotel in Matjiesfontein, which is close to the Matjies Motel, part of the same hotel, but a great affordable alternative. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Decent rooms set inside the gardens of the famous Lord Milner Hotel. Be sure to grab a drink at the adjacent Laird’s Arms too (ask nicely and the barman might even whip out the disco ball).

14. Glen Avon Guest Farm, Somerset East

Cost: Self-catering from R350 per person 
sharing.
Contact: Tel 0422433628, glenavonfarm.co.za

Accommodation consists of two restored cottages, along with two guestrooms in the main farmhouse. Hart Cottage is an original 1817 thatched wattle and daub dwelling, set in the garden amongst oak trees and white stinkwoods, while cosy Pecan Cottage is set amongst large pecan trees and lush rolling pastures.
Also read: Discover the Karoo on a pet-friendly road trip

15. Bergzight Cottage
, Karoo

Cost: From R300 per person.
Contact: Tel 0824455569, zandrivierfarm.com

Zandriver offers three private cottages and the opportunity of either getting away from it all, or being part of farm life. Guests are welcome to swim in the farm dams and explore the fields, woods and veld. Bergzight Cottage is a large two-roomed cottage and one of the original farm dwellings of Zandrivier. The wide stoep is ideal for early morning coffee or late afternoon sundowners, while taking in the sweeping views for which the cottage is named.

16. Wolverfontein
, Ladismith

Cost: Self-catering in D’Waenhuis is R300 per person sharing (weekdays) and R325 per person sharing (weekends).
Contact: Tel 0285512277, wolverfontein.com

Submerge yourself in the lifestyle of the early South African settler traders while relaxing in this fully-restored farm building that was built in 1880. The farm is set on the banks of the Touws River which allows guests to take a river ramble, while the surrounding roads are perfect for mountain biking. But if lazing in the shade of your private stoep is activity enough, then Wolverfontein will reward.

17. Mount Noah Lodge, Oudtshoorn

Cost: From R300 per person.
Contact: Tel 0442725670, mountnoah.co.za

Think of the last thing you’d expect to find in the middle of the Karoo. How about a yacht club? Mount Noah Lodge in Oudtshoorn is a yacht club built with a fleet of seven specially fitted and renovated yachts, that’ll never see water again. The first, Sagitta, got there by chance when her trailer broke down on a journey to Durban. Over the years, six more followed suit. Each suite is air-conditioned, has its own bathroom and private deck. Other facilities on this dry-dock marina include a swimming pool, bar, braai spots and a sunset-viewing lounge, and guests can take in views of the Swartberg and Outeniqua Mountains while tucking into breakfast or dinner (available on request).
Also see: Awesome weekend break – Desert Wind in the Klein Karoo

18. Hantam Huis, Calvinia

Cost: From R395 a person sharing.
Contact: Tel 0273411606, calvinia.co.za

Hantam Huis is a bit of
 a misnomer: it’s a building on Hoop Street but it also refers to the broader collection of 30 historical units scattered around town. 
We stayed at Stoepkamer in Die Dorpshuis on Water Street, which is a national monument. It’s a little like being in an elaborate, person-sized dollhouse with
 a brass four-poster bed frame and squeaky floorboards. Look out for the Huisgenoot from 1975 in the sitting room.

Also read: There’s more to Calvinia than the Hantam Vleisfees.

19. Rustic Art, Calvinia

Cost: R325 per person for self-catering flatlet (sleeps two).
Contact: Tel 0273411423, email karidecor@kingsley.co.za

Rustic Art, also known as The Junkyard, Karoo Blues or Rusthouse is at the end of Stigling Street. We loved the one self-catering flatlet that sleeps two. Be aware that this is where you come for music ‒ whether it’s Beethoven in the morning, or blues in the evening, it’s a fixture.

20. Tarantula Guest House, Calvinia

Cost: R345 per person.
Contact: Tel 0836437277, tarantulaguesthouse.co.za

Tarantula Guest House is a great self-catering spot for families. The larger family suite is surprisingly affordable and comes with a private swimming pool.

21. Die Ark B&B, Williston

Cost: From R300 per person sharing per night, including breakfast.
Contact: Tel 0533913659, safarinow.com

This interesting building, dating back to the early 1900s, has been transformed into a unique B&B thanks to the artistic flair of the owners. Rooms are elegantly furnished and facilities include a telescope for guests to stargaze, a lapa, braai area and a small swimming pool.
Photoblog: road trip through the Great Karoo

22. Starry Nights Karoo Cottages, Philippolis

Cost: From R750 a night (sleeps two).
Contact: Tel 0517730063, starrynights.co.za

Bookshops and quaint afternoons on the veld in Philippolis. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Starry Nights Karoo Cottages are five perfectly restored historical homes with wooden floors, Victorian bathtubs, quaint stoeps and tranquil gardens.

Also read: Secret village: why you should visit Philippolis.

23. Karoo Cottage, Sneeuberg

Cost: Between R400 to R500 per person and sleeps up to six people.
Contact: Tel 0768113418, sneeuberg.com.

Incredible Karoo views abound on this farm. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Comfortable and unpretentious, this three-bedroom, semi-stone cottage is on the same werf as The Poplars farmhouse nearby. The kitchen-dining room has a the table set in front of a large raised hearth and is a real highlight. This is what Karoo escape truly feels like.

It’s whale season in the Southern Cape. If you’re there to see the whales, explore beyond Hermanus and take in the breathtaking coastline they swim past and the inland places lost in time.

The top of the lighthouse is a great vantage point for spotting whales passing Cape Agulhas en route to Walker Bay. Photo by Caroline Webb

Once upon a time, the southern tip of Africa was a big deal – the gateway to the East by sea. It turned out to be a tempestuous place. The waters around Agulhas, that southern tip, have officially claimed 129 ships since 1673; the most recent was in 1982. It makes sense, then, that a journey to the deep south should include a visit to the Shipwreck Museum. That’s where I chose to start this road trip, in Bredasdorp, also the ‘capital’ of the Agulhas region.

I had originally intended to start in Gansbaai and drive down the long stretch of coast until the tar road ended, at Die Dam, and then cut across the Agulhas Plain to the southern tip. But people I spoke to said it was ‘boring, with nothing to see except alien trees’ and no sea views to speak of. Bredasdorp is easily reached from the N2, giving access to anyone coming from Cape Town side or the Garden Route, or inland from the Robertson valley.

Bredasdorp’s Shipwreck Museum was wonderfully atmospheric, with a soundtrack of waves and seagulls that made me eager to get to the coast. The road leads straight down the Agulhas Plain, through fynbos that twists and clumps and forms patterns and textures. On the horizon, in an otherwise clear blue sky, a bank of clouds hovered over where the coast was.

It wasn’t until I entered Struisbaai that I caught a glimpse of the sea: stunningly tropical-looking water in glorious blue-green hues. I needed to see more, and took a left to the harbour, where an impossibly quaint scene unfolded: a dozen multi-coloured little fishing boats (called ‘chokkas’) at anchor in the calm bay, flocks of seagulls and a golden beach stretching off to the left.

People came and went – turns out, Struisbaai harbour is the centre of town, and everyone makes a turn here to see what’s happening (and whether Parrie the famous stingray is there).

The Struisbaai Harbour. Photo by Caroline Webb

I walked along the boardwalk behind the beach, past a group doing a sea-yoga class, to a second, much longer stretch of sand that continues for 14 kilometres to Arniston. Back in the car, Marine Drive curls around the corner (evocatively called Spookdraai) alongside a rugged coast dotted with lonely benches. This stretch between Struisbaai and L’Agulhas, due to ever-increasing development, is now practically one town.

By mid-afternoon, the weather had turned – the four seasons in a day that locals speak of. It was overcast and the wind had picked up … appropriate for a visit to the southern tip of Africa. To be honest, it didn’t feel like the end of Africa; it didn’t even feel like I was standing on a ‘tip’, but it does have a sense of ‘occasion’. The woman at the info centre in the lighthouse had said that if I walked 10 metres to the right of the monument, I’d be standing exactly in line with the meeting place of the two oceans. So I did that, but there was no obvious sign – no mixing of two different shades of blue.

There are plans for developing this site, with a much more monumental, abstract structure involving paving in the shape of Africa. It will surely make the experience feel ‘grander’, but I’d urge people to get here while it’s still a relatively simple place.

Before leaving L’Agulhas the next day, I stopped in at the ‘shell house’ up on the hill. Owner Mosie Hope is an anti-plastic and recycling advocate, who turns all the junk she finds on her shore walks into artworks. She’ll happily show visitors around her ‘museum’, containing many amazing things – I had no idea, for example, that shells start out as eggs (which look a little like caviar).

Just outside Struisbaai there’s a turn-off to Elim, a shortcut across the Agulhas Plain taking you past wetlands – including Voëlvlei and Zoetendalsvlei, the second largest wetland system in South Africa. However, it’s gravel and the locals call it the ‘summer road’ for good reason; in winter it all turns into marsh.

There is another turn-off to Elim further up, on a new tarred road linking Gansbaai to Bredasdorp. It has increased the traffic through this little-visited part of the Overberg, and opened up access to a new wine route. Black Oystercatcher is the estate most people mention; Strandveld is five kilometres down the gravel road to Die Dam, and Zoetendal is the last estate just before Elim. These farms are not grand and historic, like many in the Winelands, but they’re a welcome anomaly out here and the cool-climate, eco-friendly wine is good.

A classic seaside treat at Struisbaai. Photo by Caroline Webb

I’d been told in L’Agulhas that the road between Elim and Wolvengat is one of the most beautiful drives in spring when the fynbos blooms; even though it’s the wrong season, I decide to try it out, because who can resist a place called Wolvengat? No other car passed me, there were some beautiful views, and I had a real feel of rewinding time, stumbling on this sleepy hamlet lost to the world. ‘More people used to come this way, when gravel roads were the only way to get around this area, but since the R43 was tarred the traffic here has virtually stopped,’ artist Tina de Roubaix tells me. I’m not sure if she’s glad or sad.

Back in Elim I bought a soft-serve ice cream at the Royal Cafe and took a stroll. A mission station founded in 1824, built around an enormous church, it has an old working waterwheel and colourful cottages lining the main street. Sitting under the palm trees in the church garden, I became aware that the church bell tolls every 15 minutes. The passing of time marked gently is something beautiful and sadly forgotten.

The following morning I headed back to the coast, passing Baardskeerdersbos, a once-forgotten hamlet becoming more famous thanks to an influx of artist– its fortunes the opposite of Wolvengat’s. This road from ‘B-Bos’ was probably the most scenic of the trip, with welcome mountainscapes, and again I could see a bank of clouds hovering on the horizon. Cresting a rise about halfway to Gansbaai, I saw the sea again and pulled over at a perfectly placed padkos spot right there, with a glorious vista: a great swathe of southern ocean to behold.

It’s fitting that my journey would end at Danger Point – another notorious shipwreck spot, most famously where the Birkenhead came to grief. Before I got there, though, I stopped in Franskraal, with its lovely beach and promenade (lesser-known prime whale-watching territory) and, drawn to a whitewashed cottage in the distance, discovered the eccentric Strandveld Museum.

Then I kept following the coast, passing Kleinbaai (the harbour from which the shark-diving boats leave, before heading out to the lighthouse. I left for home feeling a little haunted, yet with a head full of magnificent seascapes.

At Franskraal. Photo by Caroline Webb

Do this great whale-watching route

Day 1: Bredasdorp to L’Agulhas

Distance 52km Time 8 hours
Head to Bredasdorp, off the N2 on the R316 from Caledon (or R319 from Swellendam). Visit the Shipwreck Museum (1) then leave town on the main street, which becomes the R319. After 30km you will arrive in Struisbaai. Turn left at the sign to the harbour (R5 entry). After some beachcombing and lunch (2), continue on the main road, which becomes Marine Drive, to L’Agulhas and the lighthouse (3). Drive to the southernmost tip, then continue on the dirt road past the shipwreck. Look for the SANParks sign (about 2km after the wreck) to locate the boardwalk to Rasperpunt (ancient fish traps visible at low tide). A little further on is the left turn into Suiderstrand – follow the tar road to the beach. Drive back to L’Agulhas if sleeping there (4), or the gate of Agulhas National Park is just beyond Suiderstrand.

Day 2: L’Agulhas to Elim

Distance 90km Time 8 hours

A row of mid-19th century buildings in Elim (one of them is the only guesthouse in town); The Shipwreck Museum. Photo by Caroline Webb.

Visit the tidal pools early, have breakfast and pop in at the ‘shell house’ (8 Golf Street, tel 0822960144) before leaving town. Retrace your route through Struisbaai and back on the R319. After 27km, turn left to Elim. After 23km you will see Black Oystercatcher (5) wine estate; turn left down the dirt R317 to get to Strandveld Vineyards (6), a 5km drive, or continue 6km further on the R43 to Zoetendal (7). Drive into Elim, turn left at the stop street and take a 12km country drive on gravel to Wolvengat (8). Return to Elim (9) on the same road (or continue through the hamlet to reach the R317 after 8km, and turn left to get back on the R43). Check in at Elim Guesthouse and be sure to arrange dinner.

Day 3: Elim to Gansbaai

Distance 65km Time 7 hours
Take a stroll around town before leaving on the R43 to Gansbaai. After 18km you will reach Baardskeerdersbos (10). Continue to Gansbaai; look out for the viewpoint after 12km. Further down in the valley, at the T-junction, turn right then left to Franskraal and head to the shore. Stretch your legs on the promenade and visit the Strandveld Museum (11). Continue north, hugging the coast; at Kleinbaai you’ll have to head away from the sea. At the T-junction into Van Wyk Drive, take a right to the penguin sanctuary (12) and a left to Danger Point lighthouse (10:00 – 15:00, closed on weekends). From here it’s 10km to Gansbaai, and on from here to prime whale-watching destinations, De Kelders and Hermanus.

If you have more time

Elim in lovely afternoon light. Photo by Caroline Webb

Spend an extra day at Cape Agulhas – there are several great walks, including the Sterna Trail (four hours) in De Mond Nature Reserve; take the Arniston turn-off 16km out of Struisbaai. There is also Sea Shack, a beach BBQ spot in Struisbaai – call ahead to find out if they’re doing their seafood buffet feast (tel 0724554460). It’ll take all afternoon. For more info on visiting the Agulhas Plain wetlands (there are bird hides and buffalo herds, and hiking trails are planned), see nuwejaars.com.

Where to see whales

There are five coastal trails in the Cape Agulhas area, including boardwalks, as well as long beaches at De Plaat (Struisbaai) and Suiderstrand – if you keep your eyes on the sea, you’ll spot whales swimming past. They’re all headed for Walker Bay (Gansbaai, De Kelders, Hermanus) to calve, so that is where you’ll see them in large numbers. San Sebastian Bay, Cape Infanta and Witsand, up the coast beyond Arniston, is also a whale nursery.

Directory and map

1. Shipwreck Museum. A wonderful museum in an old church. Exhibits include rare Swedish plate money and 100-year-old Champagne, and more discoveries in the garden, barn and house next door. Entry R25. 6 Independent Street. Tel 0284241240.

2. Pelican Harbour Café. You can’t beat it for views and vibe, right at Struisbaai harbour. Lots of seafood but also ribs, steak, burgers and salads (like all the restaurants in these parts). From R45 for mussel soup to R150 for paella. Tel 0284356526.

3. Cape Agulhas Lighthouse. The second-oldest still operating in SA, built in 1848, it has a small museum and four levels of wooden ladders,71 steps in total, to reach the top – not for claustrophics or those afraid of heights! Entry R28. Tel 0284357185.

4. Rus’n Bietjie. One of the few remaining original holiday cottages on the L’Agulhas seafront. It’s cosy and quirky – and 50 metres from Soldaat’s tidal pool. From R600 for two self-catering and sleeps six. Tel 0845874228. (Or Agulhas National Park has seaside log cabins and very remote old farm cottages to stay in. sanparks.org)

5. Black Oystercatcher is the start of the Elim wine route, is also home to Fraser’s Folly craft brewery and a top-notch restaurant. Tel 0284821618.

6. Strandveld Vineyards, which has the largest selection of wines but does not serve food. Tel 0284821902.

7. Zoetendal, which makes just two wines and Becker’s craft beer. Pre-book a picnic (R140 for two) or try the deli’s light meals (ciabatta R50). Tel 0284821717

8. Wolvengat. There’s an old-fashioned trading store (closed on Saturdays), a few art galleries (you can get tea/coffee at Annette Barnard’s, the second house after the pink cottage) and a garden full of sculptures, including the mysterious ‘Stargazers’. Call ahead to stop in at Sanity Farm – turn off just before the patch of tar going into the village – for pork pies, sausages and bacon, or meals on Sundays to Thursdays. Tel 0284821635.

9. Elim. The only guesthouse in town is run by Christina Afrika: an historic inn that is neat and clean, with modern bathroom facilities. A real bargain at R230 per person B&B. Tel 0284821715. Chrissie Viegeland runs the Waterfront Café from her home. She is known for her cakes, but does coffee, milkshakes, burgers, you name it. If you don’t book dinner with the guesthouse, you can ask her to make something. Tel 0284821739. To visit the old waterwheel, call Elim Heritage Centre. Tel 0284821738.

10. Baardskeerdersbos Marietjie’s Pub & Grill is on your left on the main road through town – open from breakfast to late night, but it’s cash payment only. Tel 0724525210. There is also an art gallery, wine shop, bakery and an old church, or pre-book a horse ride if you have more time (tel 0764899853). Lomond wine estate is 9km out of town en route to Gansbaai (closed Sundays). Call ahead. Tel 0829080099.

11. Strandveld Museum. Three rooms in an old house filled with flotsam and jetsam, relics from the Birkenhead wreck – and an owner full of stories. Entry R5. Tel 0822558509.

12. African Penguin & Seabird Sanctuary. Look for the statue of the penguin on the roof. This bird hospital is well designed and informative – you can see what’s going on behind the scenes on a big screen and from behind one-way glass. Feeding times 8:30 and 15:00. Free entry (donations welcome). Tel 0725987117.

Click here to see the full road trip route.

This story first appeared in the June 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Check into the most desirable places in South Africa with our featured winter deals; find cool images of the Antarctic and take a wild drive over the Namib dunes in our June issue!

What’s not to love about movies? They inspire wanderlust and introduce us to the beauty of places from a chair.

These dreamy locations will make you want to quit your job, live out of a suitcase and chase after breathtaking hilltops, gorgeous beaches and dreamy horizons. Here are 12 wonderful flicks showcasing some of the best places around the world.

Disclaimer: The epic plots and alluring visuals will result in you digging up your passport.

1. Mamma Mia

A mother, a daughter, a wedding and three possible fathers with some classic hits thrown in. How can you not enjoy this? The location is in the Greek Islands of Kalokairi and the main film was captured in Skopelos. The turquoise water and superb sunrises seen from the Kastani Beach are enough to make anyone want to get married, have their vows renewed or simply shoot off on a vacation. The musical was filmed with popular hits from the 70’s music group, ABBA.

2. Vicky Cristina Barcelona

Two young American women visit Barcelona for the summer. The movie is a visual splendour, capturing some of Barcelona’s loved architecture by Antoni Gaudi.  The beautiful unfinished Church of La Sagrada Familia, Parc Güell, Parc de Montjuïc and the strange rooftop chimney’s at Casa Milà all appear in the movie. Watch the trailer here.

3. The Bucket List

Two men decide to embark on a journey of a lifetime when they get news of terminal illnesses. The film is shot in breathtaking locations that had me looking for my passport. I would personally love to go on an adventure like these guys. The scenes include visuals of California in the United States, the ancient and historical landmarks of the Great Pyramids of Giza in Egypt and the characters even ride motorcycles along the Great Wall of China. It doesn’t end there. They also pay a visit to the Taj Mahal in India, Mount Everest in Nepal and go on a Wildlife safari in Tanzania. Jealous yet? I still am.

4. The Fault In Our Stars

This romantic drama is based on the John Green‘s novel with the same title. I must admit, I wept a bit and then promptly developed intense FOMO (fear of missing out). The movie was filmed in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania and then in one of my favourite destinations in the world, Amsterdam in the Netherlands. All the scenes from Amsterdam capture the beauty of this destination so well, from the canals to the coat houses, the architecture and even the bicycles. Check out the trailer here.

5. Lost In Translation

Lost in Translation is a story of love and friendship blooming under unlikely circumstances set in Tokyo, Japan. The thought of going from city to city in a bullet train in Japan brings a sense of excitement. The locations in Tokyo are Shinjuku, the business and entertainment centre of Tokyo, as well as Shibuya, the young and trendy ‘New York’ of the city. Have a look at the trailer here.

6. The Secret Life of Walter Mitty

I’m not afraid to admit, from time to time I become like Ben Stiller in the Secret Life of Walter Mitty. I daydream of adventures all the time. I’m daydreaming of one right now. The film is shot in several beautiful locations around the world. Expect visuals from Manhattan, New York, Nuuk, Greenland, Eyjafjallajökull Iceland and the Himalayas.

7. Eat, Pray, Love

If you haven’t read the book or watched the movie yet, what are you waiting for? We all feel a bit out of place in life and want to ‘find ourselves’. This movie is the perfect escape captured in New York, Rome and Naples in Italy, Dehli and Pataudi, India. It doesn’t end there, the character also takes us into Ubud and Padang Padang Beach in Bali.

8. In Bruges

This comedy crime film is set on the 12th-century canals and cobblestone streets of Bruges in Belgium – a well-preserved Medieval town. The characters portray two Irish hit men hiding in the Bruges city centre, which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The scenes of the movie were taken in the Relais Bourgondisch Cruyce Hotel, a classy boutique hotel with stained glass windows. Another famous location was the Belfry Grote Markt, that was built in 1240 and later rebuilt 40 years later. Here is the trailer.

9. The Holiday

Two women exchange houses around a Christmas holiday in search of a new lease on life. The Holiday is filmed in Los Angeles and in Shere, England. Shere is an idyllic village with a population of under 4000 people based in the south west of London. The village has a scenic stream that flows through the village called the Tillingbourne. Have a look at the trailer here.

10. Midnight in Paris

Possibly the ultimate tour of Paris, this is also a move centred around nostalgia. The film covers an array of locations in and around Paris, that will make you want to eat French Crapes for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Some locations captured in the film are the Pont Alexandre III, which is the golden bridge over the Seine River and Monet’s Garden, an hour outside of Paris. The Chateau de Versailles is an extravagant sight and the Quai de la Tournelle is a cobblestoned road on the Seine’s river bank. The Eiffel Tower is another obvious treat to feast your eyes on.

11. Nowhere in Africa

Nowhere in Africa is about a German family in refuge during a war and must move, adjusting to the ways of living in Kenya. The film has won over 14 International awards. The locations of the movie are Baringo County and Mount Kenya, which is the second highest mountain in Africa after Mount Kilimanjaro. View the trailer here.

12. The Grand Budapest Hotel

This interesting movie is a comedy about a legendary concierge at a European hotel. The movie involves the theft of a Renaissance painting and is set in the imaginary Republic of Zubrowka. However, the pretend scenes are shot in Görlitz, Germany, an old charming town. This is also the location where Inglorious Bastards was filmed.

What movies have you watched that have given you the travel bug? Feel free to share about it in the comment box below.

Imagine sitting on top of a dune 35 storeys high, nose face 37-degrees down.

4X4ing through the Namib Desert on a dune tour is a heart-pumping adventure of slip faces, shipwrecks and ghost towns – you’ll love it!

Parked at the top of a 35-storey dune, it seems impossible we’ll ever get through the Namib. For a little comparison, the Carlton Centre in Jo’burg is 50 storeys high – but we’re in a 4X4 Toyota Fortuner and aim to drive through this giant sandpit with nothing but gears, four jerrycans and a sprinkling of grit to get us to the coast on the other side.

Luckily, we’re not alone. Booked through Live the Journey, our first family dune tour through the Namib is guided by professionals like Danie ‘Jakkals’ van Ellewee, who trained under the original desert driver, Eben Delport. There are always two guide cars on each tour – one vehicle in front ‘breaks’ the route, finding a way through the imposing dunes, while the other car brings up the rear and helps with recovery.

Also read: How to fly a 4X4 in Namibia.

The Namib is protected and can only be navigated with guides.

Eben reads the dunes like he owns the place, which he almost does. His company, Uri Adventures, created a way for self-drive travellers to explore the Namib after former diamond-mining areas became concessions. ‘Uri’ is the Nama-Damara word for the movement of a springbok as it jumps, otherwise known as pronking. Although our 4x4s are certainly not as graceful, I like the image of us pronking across the dunes of Namibia.

Jakkals’ voice crackles over the radio. At the beginning of our trip, all 12 cars in our convoy were fitted with radios so that we could warn each other about obstacles, like slip faces and holes, and so that the guides could help us navigate each hurdle.

‘Okay, there’s a very big hole here. You really need to give it gas at the bottom of the dune, then keep accelerating until you get right to the top of the next one on the other side – but not too much.’

My heart is pounding. The last thing we need is for our car to fly over the dune peak when we have no idea what’s on the other side.

‘Try high range, second gear,’ Jakkals says. My dad slips the car into gear. I hold on tight and hope for the best. Mom holds even tighter.

‘Gooi mielies!’ Jakkals cheers over the radio. ‘Go! Go! Go!’ The revs are up and we’re churning the sand into butter at the bottom to get enough speed for the upcoming crest. ‘Daaaaaar’s hy! Lekker man,’ Jakkals congratulates us.

A Prado leaps over a dune to a steep descent – look how tiny the cars are on the bottom right!

We sit, perched on top of the second dune. The 35-storey-high one. Below us is a steep slide of sand and the car nose is pointing downwards at a scary gradient. Actually, we are standing in our car, perched on the peak, with our feet planted at on the floor because of the angle of the car. Eben says no dune face is less than 37 degrees, or the dune would collapse and avalanche in on itself.

It feels far steeper from inside the car. The trick here is to glide slowly down the dune, letting the compression of the car’s gears and the thick sand help you dribble to the bottom. Accelerate at the wrong time and you’ll have a carful of wide eyes and wild screams.

Our convoy is a lucky packet of vehicles, but most of them are Toyotas: Hiluxes, Prados, Land Cruisers, one Ford Ranger, ‘Suzy’ the 2,8-litre Isuzu bakkie and our automatic Fortuner. (Having an automatic in the sand was great – Jakkals told us that a clutch can sometimes break on the trip, in which case, a new one has to be dropped off by helicopter.)

It doesn’t matter what car is used, all tyres are let down to a low pressure of 0.8 bar. So low that if you turn too sharply or hit a clump of vegetation, the tyre can peel away from the rim, letting out any remaining air. Then it has to be carefully put back together with a can of deodorant and a lighter.

Sunset at a wild camp close to White Mountain; the recovery team helps to put a tyre back on its rim.

There’s a real thrill in skimming through sand and self-satisfaction while negotiating truly technical driving. Even though this is a 4X4 driving tour, I’m pleasantly surprised that the trip is not confined to the car. Thanks to the obstacles and recoveries, photo stops and lunch breaks, there’s plenty of time to step outside and feel the sand sieve between your toes.

I’m also astonished at the variety of the Namib. It may be the world’s oldest desert, but it certainly isn’t a stark or dead place.

Majestic oryx watch us in the golden hour of sunset.

We drive past oryx – shimmering in the distance because of the heat – while skittish toktokkies, sidewinders and lizards with dancing limbs all skate across the sand. The latter varies in colour, from sunset-red vegetated hills to longer strips of golden ridges to pure-white sand mountains – Eben’s favourite part of the Namib.

The route also wends its way towards the eerie, abandoned mining settlements of Charlottenfelder, Holsatia and Grillenberger in the area between Conception Bay and Meob Bay. Only the triangular roofs of buildings peek out of the dunes, as the settlements have been taken over by sand and piles of glass bottles, scoured matte and opaque. Then, once we hit the foggy coast, wrecks of ships that tried to service these towns emerge. They lie between groups of stinky Cape fur seals – we estimate there are at least a thousand sitting on the beach – while several black- backed jackals dart between them, furtively looking for scraps.

Camping close to the coast means a cool evening under the stars. Some nights you can’t sleep outside as the fog rolls in, bringing plenty of water.

This unforgettable adventure combines adrenaline-filled thrills with desert exploration, but also supports a respectful, environmentally sound mentality of treading lightly. Each car must drive in the same set of tracks as the lead car so there aren’t tyre marks everywhere, and so that desert wildlife gets a chance at survival too, as many species bury themselves in the dunes to keep cool. All the trash we generate has to be taken out of the desert, and we have packed all the water, food, camping gear and fuel we need for five days.

Eben reckons about 90 percent of the clients on these dune tours are South African, and it makes a lot of sense. ‘People own 4x4s and they’ll first visit Botswana, check out the highlights in Namibia and do a few shorter trails, then they really want to test their car on an epic 4X4 adventure.’ This is exactly how my parents feel about this holiday, and I’m so glad I’m getting to tag along.

Only kitted 4x4s are allowed on this trip; one evening was spent right on the coast close to Meob Bay, where seals are a common sight.

Every evening around the fire is festive as we all gather for drinks and dinner, exchanging war stories from the day’s driving, and every evening I try to figure out why this trip is different. Why is everyone so happy? Of our group, five couples have done a dune tour before and will definitely return to do another.

Back in the 90s, when Namibia gained independence, there were 17 applicants for the concession to trek across the Namib but only four spots were awarded.

We watched the day escape with epic sunsets every evening in the Namib.

Tours through this desert have a low footprint, offer exclusivity and manage to maintain the solitude that comes with all this sand.

Could one be in love with sand? It’s unlikely. But the infinity of the Namib Desert is definitely overwhelming – in a good way. It’s an area so vast, they named a whole country after it; an area so vast that Namibia is the second least-populated country in the world (the first is Mongolia); an area so vast it takes six days to cross it. Something about being engulfed by so much space stirs up a powerful feeling of enchantment.

On the last evening, Jakkals prepares a mean meal of kebabs and salad, and even treats us to a sneaky tub of ice cream that has journeyed through the dunes for the last supper, and he ‘fesses up: ‘We’ve been putting a little bit of Namib sand into your food every night. So when you go home and get a craving for the desert, it’s because it’s now in your blood.’ I may not be in love with sand after all – it’s the Namib in my veins.

Plan your desert dune tour

This video gives you a great idea of what a Namibia 4X4 Dune Tour feels like.

Getting there

Standard tours start in either Solitaire or Lüderitz. The easiest route from Joburg is on the N14 to Upington via Ventersdorp, Vryburg and Kuruman. It takes about eight hours, so spend the night. From Upington, take the N10 to Ariamsvlei border post – you’ll need to pay N$260 road usage fee (bring cash, payable in rands). Keep the receipt in a safe place, as you will be asked to present it if you’re stopped at a roadblock. From Ariamsvlei take the B3 to Grünau, then the C12 to Seeheim and Goageb.

If you’re doing the tour from Solitaire, turn right onto the C14 at Goageb and continue north for about 400km. If you’re starting from Lüderitz take the B4 from Goageb to the coast. Tours end in Walvis Bay. From there, take the C14 east, then the C26 and C24 to Rehoboth, then the B1 to Grunau and B3 home.

The tour

Vegetated scenery at the beginning of the dune tour, close to Betta.

We did a custom tour (available for groups with 10 vehicles or more) that started at Betta Campsite, which is halfway between Lüderitz and Solitaire. The ‘Faces of the Namib’ is the flagship, six-day trip that starts from Solitaire and traverses the Namib Desert from east to west, as well as south to north, so you experience a lot of variety. The ‘Lüderitz to Walvis Bay’ tour is one day longer, 100km further, and follows a route that is predominantly along or very near the coast. Both tours each cost R10950 per adult, with reduced rates for children. There are also variations of the ‘Faces’ tour with two-, three- or four-night options, if you are limited by time constraints.

For the tour, you need a 4X4 with high and low range gear functions and good ground clearance. If you don’t have a 4X4, you can hire one through Live the Journey from R3300 a day, including camping kit for two people.

What’s included

Concession fees and levies, trained guides, a radio, dinner every evening and some communal camping facilities like a braai area, a chemical toilet and a shower (you need to supply your own water for the shower though).

What to pack

A preserved interior at Grillenberger ghost town; this jackal calls the Eduard Bohlen shipwreck home.

Take enough fuel to cover about 800km. The heavy sand conditions mean you can only do about 4km per litre. On our tour, we did a total of 640km and used about 170 litres of fuel. Every car also needs a spade and tyre pressure gauge, and must be fitted with points where you can attach a tow rope, both in front and at the rear. No trailers are allowed. Each vehicle needs to take two bags of firewood and 60 litres of water for general personal use, like showers and washing up (20 litres will be used by the communal kitchen). I’d recommend taking a ground sheet, as you need a place to put baggage and bedding while pitching/breaking camp or repacking vehicles. A pop-up or rooftop tent will make camping easier as every night is spent in a different location.

Need to know

You don’t need experience of dune driving to do this tour. While some previous experience is recommended, German visitors in our group managed to do the trip expertly. The guides are that good.

Medical insurance is essential. Transportation to a hospital will probably require an airlift, so make sure you’re covered for this. The Namibian dollar and SA rand have the same value (R1 = N$1), and payment in rands is accepted.

The Namib is a surprisingly cool desert and sea breezes keep temperatures down. You are more likely to feel too chilly than too hot in the mornings and evenings, so take warm clothes. Your vehicle’s air conditioning should keep you comfortable during the day, but you will need sun protection. It gets pretty windy in July and August, but when I went in March the weather was perfect. I could even sleep outside.

Stay here

The quirky, bright interiors at The Delight in Swakopmund, at the end of the trip.

Libby’s Lodge in Upington is a lovely B&B set in a garden. It won’t break the bank and has off-street parking for bigger vehicles with rooftop accessories. B&B from R770 for two sharing.

Kairos Cottage in Lüderitz is a great place to sped the night. Especially if you’re doing the ‘Lüderitz to Walvis Bay’ tour. B&B from R750 for two sharing. While here, visit the nearby old diamond-mining town of Kolmanskop (from R85 per person) and eat local oysters at Diaz Coffee Shop (R10 each).

Klein-Aus Vista in Aus is nestled among mountains between Lüderitz and Keetmanshoop. There are accommodation options for every budget – campsites (each under a big camel thorn tree), B&B cottages close to a pool and self-catering chalets with endless views. Camping is R130 pp, B&B is from R1090 per person and self-catering (which also includes breakfast) is from R1485 per person. It’s part of the Gondwana Collection so if you get a SA membership card (R200, valid for five years) you qualify for 40 percent discount (excluding camping).

The Delight in Swakopmund is the perfect treat after six days in the desert. It has colourful decor, free Wi-Fi and is centrally situated in town, making it a perfect base for exploration. It’s also part of the Gondwana Collection so you can get the discount with the membership card. B&B from R1069 per person.

Map

Here is a map of the Dune Tour routes. Click on the image to see a larger version.

This story first appeared in the June 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Check into the most desirable places in South Africa with our featured winter deals; find cool images of the Antarctic and take a wild drive over the Namib dunes in our June issue!

Deputy Editor, Tyson Jopson found that the first rule of hiking should be finding hikers you can trust. Which kind of hiker are you?

‘Why do we climb mountains?’ If you’re one of the authors of this month’s hiking features (Rwenzoris, page 82; Langeberg, page 46; Golden Gate, page 66), the answer lies somewhere between solitude and conquest.

Find out where this epic mountain cabin is in the October issue.

If you’re the eminent mountaineer George Mallory, the answer is one you’ve likely heard before. ‘Because it’s there,’ he famously said to a New York Times journalist in 1923, shortly before he disappeared trying to summit Everest. Simple, eloquent and, frankly, a bit pithy for a man who reportedly read passages of Keats to fellow climbers as motivation. I can’t think of anything more unbearable. In fact, I suspect it had something to do with his disappearance; I think his climbing partner simply couldn’t stand his waffling enumerations any longer and shoved him into an abyss.

Anyway, the question of why we climb mountains has been dealt with ad nauseam. So much so that it’s taken our eyes off another important question: ‘Why do other people climb mountains?’

See, mountains are glorious but also treacherous and often your only help is from people around you. In my seven years of climbing mountains for Getaway I’ve discovered that, broadly speaking, you’re likely to meet seven types of people who climb them for seven different reasons.

Now look, I don’t like to stereotype. I know that you are all very special snowflakes; complex individuals with such specific interests that there’s just no way you’re part of the same lot who fell for the craft beer revolution, or did the Macarena, or owned a lava lamp. But this is about survival. And to survive, you need to know who you can, and cannot, trust.

1. The family of tourists

I know this is strictly not one person, but it operates as a unit and will thus react as one. But it is too distracted and fraught with internal dilemmas – herding its younger units away from ledges, negotiating terms with its teenage ones or grunting at its elders’ lack of pace – to even notice your emergency. You’re better off trying to signal the attention of a rock.

2. The kitchen sinker

This person brings everything. It’s only a half-day doddle up the Magaliesberg, but they’ve got a picnic blanket, a basket of cheeses, cutlery for six and two books because they’re not sure what mood they’ll be in at the top. They rarely make it to the top. If you get down quick enough there might still be some leftover cheese in the parking lot.

Also read: 5 hiking trails near Johannesburg

3. The selfie-taker

Don’t go near these people. They’re there for fame and will back themselves off a ledge for a good pic if that’s what it takes. And they will take you with them.

4. The athleisure strider

You’ll find these specimens around foothills and low-altitude forests (Cape Town’s Constantia is a prime location). They’re identifiable by their neon plumage and faithful adherence to brand names ‘because the products were developed to work together’. The only help you’ll get from them is the location of a good bargain.

Also read: Do it yourself: a multi-day hike on Table Mountain

5. The still-drunk student

Overlooking Camp’s Bay for sunset from the peak of Lions Head. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

When they charged their glass ‘to climbing Laaaan’s Head!’ the previous night, everyone thought they were joking. Yet there they are, halfway up the chain ladders, wearing jeans and Sambuca-stained elbows. It won’t be long before they sober up and realise this was a bad idea. You need to give them water. You are their help.

Also read: Photoblog: hiking Lion’s Head at sunset

6. The trail runner

Whoosh. ‘What was that?’ You can’t get help from something you can’t even see.

7. The mountain goat

‘This is the one!’ you think. They’ve got a belt that can hold three water bottles, a topographical map tucked into their two-piece hiking pants and the glint of someone who knows their way around a buttress. You’re wrong. They may know an escape route but it’s unnavigable for regular humans. Follow them and you’ll probably end up as a smudge on some scenery.

So who can you rely on? I don’t know. Your best bet is to approach a hike the way you would an interview for a band of bank robbers: trust nobody. Especially if you’re the type of person who likes to recite poetry.

Also read: 10 African hiking trails

See more in October issue of Getaway magazine.

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The best guide to weekending in Golden Gate; how to go shark diving (without a cage); exploring the high peaks of the Rwenzoris and heritage homestays with delicious food in Kerala.

The declaration of the ǂKhomani Cultural Landscape as a World Heritage site marks a significant progress for the ǂKhomani San, who are also known as ‘the first people’.

Sunset at the Erin Game Range. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

The ǂKhomani Cultural Landscape has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, the declaration means South Africa has a total of nine World Heritage Site destinations.

The ǂKhomani Cultural Landscape was the only new South African destination declared a World Heritage site in 2017 (out of 25 new sites worldwide) and is a milestone for the Khomani San. Their ownership of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park made their case the most current successful example of aboriginal land claim in Southern Africa. The claim of the 65000-hectare land was settled out of court by the then newly appointed South African government.

A walk through the traditions of the Khomani San. Image by Melanie van Zyl

The cultural landscape bears testimony to a way of life that prevailed in the harsh desert conditions of this region. The Khomani San have played a pivotal role in the preservation of South African heritage with evidence dating as far back as the Stone Age.

“The large expanse of sand contains evidence of human occupation from the Stone Age to the present and is associated with the culture of the formerly nomadic ǂKhomani San people and the strategies that allowed them to adapt to harsh desert conditions,” notes UNESCO. The landscape is characterised by a unique biosphere with red sand dunes throughout the region.

The San are traditional hunter-gatherers who inhabited the Kalahari desert between South Africa, Botswana and Namibia da. About 1500 adults are said to be spread out throughout various towns of the Northern Cape. After losing their rights to hunt and manage stock, they were forcibly removed from the land under a 1930s settlement.

The Bushmen struggle to keep their traditions and way of living alive in the Kalahari, but there are still some people that fight for their community. ‘Together we are stronger’, Barbara said to me, holding her grand-uncle. Image by Yann Macherez.

The case for the land claim was assisted by Human Rights Lawyer, Roger Chennells. Roger met Dawid Kruiper, one of the prominent elders in the community, in 1992. Impressed by Dawid Kruiper, his family and the hospitality, Roger wanted to help Dawid and his community get back their ancestral land. Given the politically volatile climate in the country at the time, Roger thought it was the perfect timing to assist the community get back their land.

The land claim agreement signed in 1999 granted the Khomani San tourism rights over 80000 hectares inside the Kgalagadi National Park. They were also given the rights to use a portion of the park for cultural purposes. Cultural purposes include hunting, walking and engaging with the land as they used to for many years before they were forcibly removed.

The cultural landscape might have a long way to go with resources to make it a state-of-the-art park but one cannot deny the impact of this landscape on the South African heritage. It contributes hugely to South African history and ensures the survival of ‘the first people’ on earth.

Visit the Khomani San Landscape

Those who visit the landscape can expect guided day trips, tented bush camps and cultural experiences for groups or visitors run by Khomani San. The Khoman San community is steadily using their land to gain financial independence, as such, you will find locals who delight in sharing knowledge about their heritage. This is encouraging because it means that the community can directly benefit from tourism developments in the area. Developments that will not jeopardise nature and the land of their ancestry.

A Gemsbok stands majestically on a calcrete ridge at sunset in the Kgalagadi. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

The preservation of their land – which means using it for tourism purposes – does mean a certain level of integration into urban society. Dirk Vilander, who grew up in the land is now a qualified guide, teaching people about the heritage of the land took us on a game drive through the Erin Game Ranch where we saw plenty of animals like springbok, zebra, wildebeest and jackals.

I asked him about the possible clash between the younger generation that’s assumably modern, like him, and the elders whom one imagines would be cautious of developments. The middle ground between tradition and allowing room for tourism development, he says, is the key to preserving this land. Tourism developments in the are mean that people get the opportunity to enjoy what the San have enjoyed for thousands of years – a relationship with nature. Preserving the land for tourism prevents industrial developments like mining, which the elders are against, he adds.

Aunt Koera preparing dinner at the Erin Game Farm. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

The land is currently being used for various community-led initiatives, like Aunt Koera’s kitchen, camping in the Kalahari and special heritage tours.

I visited Aunt Koera’s Kitchen and enjoyed a homemade dinner while learning a lot about her heritage. Upon arrival, I ­ found her rolling and cutting up the dough for fresh roosterkoek which was to be served alongside lamb stew with sweet carrots. The salad is made using the wild and tangy ‘gemsbok cucumbers’ grown in the Kalahari desert. Cooking was always Aunt Koera’s passion and she uses a portion of the communal land on Erin Game Ranch to feed travellers. All her meals are cooked over the fire because it keeps with the traditions of Kalahari cuisine.

Plan your trip

To visit Aunt Koera’s Farm Kitchen, call her on 0835888346 for bookings. Or visit openafrica.org

To sleep nearby, try Boesmansrun Grass Huts, which is also a community-run initiative. The huts are authentic, rustic grass huts with basic facilities. Good if you’re just looking for a bed to lay your head down overnight. Call 0783280578 or visit openafrica.org

Read more about the Khomani San, camping facilities and other acitivities at khomanisan.com

Welcome visited the Komani Landscape for the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more.

The 031 is South Africa’s playground thanks to her lovely beaches, but there’s more that you can dive into – and it’s for free!

History buffs can spend hours at any one of the museums and art lovers will easily embrace Durban’s thriving creative scene. There’s also plenty on offer for outdoor and nature enthusiasts, and even classes for avid yoga devotees. Here’s the complete list of things to do for free in Durban.

Also read: Top 8 stays in Umhlanga for a seaside holiday.

1. Spend a day in the gardens

The Sunken Gardens are a historic part of Durban’s beachfront and date back to the early 1930s. Photo by Tourism KwaZulu-Natal.

If there’s anything that will keep you occupied without spending money, it’s a trip to the beach. However, Durban also has a few gardens worth visiting – and entry is free!

The Sunken Gardens

The Sunken Gardens are right on North Beach and this historic treasure has been rehabilitated to be enjoyed by all. There are different stories about how the gardens came to be, but one is that they were built during the Great Depression to keep those without jobs busy.

Another is that the Sunken Gardens were a gift from Italian POWs (prisoners of war) during WWII who wanted to thank their South African captors for giving them freedom. There were no prisons in Durban to keep them in, so the Italian POWs had to agree not to escape.

Jameson Park

Enjoy the aromas of over 200 rose species at Jameson Park. Also known as the Robert Jameson Park, the garden used to be a pineapple plantation and is now the home of dazzling rose displays.

For the Sunken Gardens and Jameson Park, call 0313224164.

Durban Botanic Gardens

Any list about gardens in Durban would be incomplete without a mention of the Durban Botanic Gardens. Africa’s oldest surviving botanic gardens has an impressive collection of orchids, cycads and ferns. Tel 0313224013 or 0313224014.

Japanese Gardens

Don’t forget the Japanese Gardens, which were laid out in 1963. The bridges, cobbled pathways, water features, gazebos and blooms still capture imaginations today. The main lake near the Golden Frog is great for picnics and photo snaps. Tel 0313116975.

People’s Park

The People’s Park at Moses Mabhida is also a favourite chill-out spot in Durban and is certainly family-friendly. There’s usually a lot of activity, mainly of the sporting kind and a kilometre-long track is the perfect place to let off some steam. Another way to find happiness with exertion is to simply lounge on the spacious lawns with the glorious stadium in the background. Tel 0315828242.

2. Browse the art galleries

KZNSA is over 100 years old was founded in 1902 and has always been at the centre of Durban’s art movement. Photo by @realjaninenoble

KZNSA Gallery

Gazing at art is the right kind of escape you need from the city and there are plenty of spaces in Durban to do that. The KwaZulu Natal Society of Arts or KZNSA Gallery has different gallery spaces (Main, Mezzanine and Park) that allow for grand and intimate exhibitions. Visit their website for exhibitions and opening hours. Tel 0312771705.

Durban Art Gallery

The Durban Art Gallery is also one of the city’s oldest and has a combination of historic and contemporary art. They’re open from 08:30 to 16:00 from Monday to Saturday, and from 11:00 to 16:00 on Sunday. Tel 0313112264.

African Art Centre

The African Art Centre on Florida Road has long showcased traditional African crafts and artworks and provided economic development to people from disadvantaged communities. Step inside to appreciate the artistic excellence of KZN’s talented local artists. Tel 0313123804.

artSPACE durban

To experience art in a warehouse space, head to artSPACE durban which is located on 3 Millar Road just off Umgeni. You’ll be amazed at how much creativity springs from this light industrial area. Tel 0313120793.

3. Walk through the art world at First Thursdays

If you get thirsty, try the gin at Distillery 031, Durban’s first craft distillery right in Station Drive Precinct. Photo by Crazy Korean

You’re doing Durban wrong if you haven’t been to its edition of First Thursdays. It usually happens in the Station Drive Precinct and is a wonderful way to experience Durban’s creative overflow. I mean, where else in South Africa can you join a free Bollywood dance class?

Then, there’s also the occasional salsa sessions, as well as live music, art exhibitions and flea markets (you’ll just have to resist the urge to spend and just browse instead). The next First Thursday event is on 5 October. Follow their Facebook page to get all the details, from 18:00 until late.

4. Unwind in nature

It’s not hard to see why the hamerkop is named so. It’s also called anvilhead or hammerhead Stork. Photo by Mathieu Breitenstein

Amanzimtoti Bird Sanctuary

You can see as many as 150 bird species at the Amanzimtoti Bird Sanctuary if you perch in one of the three bird hides. There is also a forested self-guided trail where you’ll be surrounded by indigenous trees and a pond where to watch waterfowl in their element. The landscape gardens is also reason enough to visit. Tel 0319031203.

Beachwood Mangrove Nature Reserve

The Beachwood Mangrove Nature Reserve is only open for a half-day once a month so treat yourself to it’s system of trails and spot mudskippers, fiddler crabs and different birds. It’s open every third Saturday from 08:00 to 13:00, but you must make a booking prior to visiting. Tel 0825592839.

Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve

The Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve is small at just 26 hectares, but its dune forests provide an amazing retreat. Its idyllic boardwalks have decorated many Instagram feeds and you can hear the ocean humming in the distance. Various trees are labelled, such as the Coastal Red milkwood and mammals scamper about too, look out for are duikers (both grey and blue) and bushbuck. Guided walks take place daily at 09:00, 11:00 and 15:00. For more information speak to reception at Breakers Resort.

Burman Bush

Burman Bush in Morningside is also a small coastal forest that has Durban’s largest blue duiker population. Take pleasure in walking through this indigenous forest with its 15 observation points and you’ll find Red beech, Forest fever-berry and Flat crowns. Remember to wear comfortable walking shoes because of the roots and rocks. 101 Burman Drive, Morningside, Tel 0313124466.

5. Get fit with free bootcamp and yoga

Fry’s also has a taster evening promoting their vegetarian foods on the first Monday of every month. It’s also free. Photo by Fry’s Yoga Club

Revive your energy and get your circulation going by joining a free yoga class, suitable for both newbies and old hands. In Durban, the Fry’s Yoga Club meets at Fortune Coffee at 15 Station Drive every Monday at 17:30 (claire@frygroup.co.za).

On Tuesdays and Thursdays there is free bootcamp on Florida at Gordon’s Road Park. It’s for an hour from 17:45 to 18:45. Visit floridaroaduip.co.za or contact Nicole 0844221970 or Atha 0848950367.

6. Salsa under the sky at Suncoast Casino

Suncoast Casino opened towards the end of 2002 and is located towards the northern end of the Golden Mile. Photo by Paton Raman

Durban is considered to be South Africa’s version of Miami and what better way to demonstrate this than open-air salsa at Suncoast Casino’s Amphitheatre? Dance styles aren’t limited to salsa and include Angola’s kizomba, bachata from the Dominican Republic and rueda from Cuba. If you’re inexperienced, you’re more than welcome to join and you don’t have to have a partner either. The classes are hosted monthly from 15:00 to 17:00. Tel 0795237147 or ardiela.r@gmail.com.

7. Explore Durban’s history

KwaMuhle Museum is named after J.S. Marwick, the Native Administration Department’s first manager who was nicknamed ‘Muhle’ or ‘the good one’. Photo by Hugh Bland.

KwaMuhle Museum

What was once the Native Administration Department is now the KwaMuhle Museum. Inside you will learn about the history of Durban’s urban residents and the interactions between the city’s cultures. The department was notorious for its labour control system and the museum’s main attraction, ‘The Durban System’, shows this. There are photographs of early township life, cultural organisations and groups and the history of black political trade unions. The museum is open weekdays from 08:30 to 16:00 and on Saturdays from 08:30 to 12:30. 130 Bram Fischer Road. Tel 0313112237.

Old Court Museum

This museum used to be a recruitment centre and canteen during the Anglo-Zulu War. It may contain artefacts of the past, but there is a modern interactive touch-screen showing Durban’s history too. There is also a miniature car display and lovely art nouveau pieces. The Old Court Museum is open 08:30 to 16:00 from Monday to Saturday. 77 Aliwal Street. Tel 0313112229.

Durban Natural Science Museum

It might be South Africa’s smallest natural science museum, but it turned 130 this year and will educate many about the past of our natural environment for years to come. There are fascinating displays like the almost complete skeleton of the dodo and the life-size T-rex model. The museum also has the largest collection of birds in Africa and a display of 750000 identified insect species. The museum is open from 09:00 to 16:00 from Monday to Sunday. 234 Anton Lembede Street. Tel 0313112256.

The Addington Centenary Museum

Addington Hospital was first built at its seaside location in the late nineteenth century. The remains of the Ovington Court ship can be seen from the hospital, which is now a museum. There are displays of early and current medical equipment and other nineteenth-century artefacts. The Addington Centenary Museum only opens on Thursdays from 09:00 to 12:00. If the Thursday occurs at month-end confirm if the museum is open before visiting. Tel 0313272702.

Bergtheil Museum

Bergtheil Museum centres on the first German settlers and is located in Westville. There is a collection on South Africa’s military history and household items and photos as well as a reference library. They’re open from Monday to Friday, 08:30 to 16:00. 16 Queens Avenue, Berea West. Tel 0312660271.

If we’ve missed anything out, do let us know in the comments!

The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO) gives recognition to sites around the world with extraordinary beauty, whether natural or cultural.

All sites must represent a masterpiece of human creative genius and cultural significance. The site could also be an outstanding example of a type of building or landscape illustrating a signature stage in human history.

Here are the 21 newest World Heritage Sites added to the worldwide list, creating a total of 1093 sites.

1. Aphrodisias, Turkey

The Aphrodisias is one of the most important archaeological sites from the Greek and Roman periods in Turkey. The old and sacred site is surrounded by marble quarries and the remains of temples and theatres. Aphrodisias is named after the Greek goddess Aphrodite and the site was found in the second century BC. Tourists can visit the newly declared preserved heritage site, but be sure to check your local visa regulations.

One of the most important archaeological sites in Turkey. Image by Chris Stroup

2. Taputapuātea, French Polynesia

Taputapuātea is at the centre of the French Polynesia Triangle. This area has been protected since 1952 and is significant for being a political and religious centre. The area also has beautiful forested valleys, coral reefs, lagoons and the open ocean.

3. Asmara, Eritrea

Asmara is the capital of Eritrea and lies across the Red Sea from Saudi Arabia and Yemen. It’s one of Africa’s most beautiful cities, labelled the ‘Forgotten piece of Italy in Africa’. The city was invaded by an Italian colony between 1890 and 1941. Asmara boasts of some of the most beautiful architecture and is considered a modernist city of Africa.

Asmara is known for its beautiful architecture. Image by Clay Gilliland

4. Tarnowskie Góry, Poland

Tarnowskie Góry is less than two hours away from Krakow. The underground site was a lead, silver and zinc mine until the 1900s. Although it is no longer used as a mining shaft, visitors can still visit underground.

5. Khomani Cultural Landscapes, South Africa

The Khomani Cultural Landscape borders Botswana and Namibia along the South African borders and includes the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. The newly-declared Heritage site will hopefully boost the economic development in the area as well as preserve the Khomani culture.

Also read: Khomani San Landscape spotlights South African heritage.

A walk through the traditions of the Khomani san. Image by Melanie van Zyl.

6. Valongo Wharf, Brazil

The archaeological site in Rio de Janeiro has a rich history and is a former harbour area in the stone town. An estimated 900000 African slaves arrived in South America via Valongo between the end of the 18th century and the mid 19th century. Valongo Wharf was where the African slaves took their first steps in South America.

Jornal do Commercio Square in Rio de Janeiro. Image by Porto Maravihla

7. English Lake District, United Kingdom

The United Kingdom’s first National Park to be granted this high status. The English Lake District is situated in the English countryside and is surrounded by quaint houses, small towns and winding streets. To avoid the chaos of the bigger cities, in the United Kingdom, enjoy the countryside full of valleys, mountains and beautiful lakes.

Go to the English countryside. Image by Robert J. Heath

8. Qinghai Hoh Xil, China

Qinghai Hoh Xil is a Nature Reserve in China, in the province of Qinghai Tibet Plateau. The area is free of modern human impact and has over 200 animal species. This is China’s largest and highest natural World Heritage Site covering 45000 kilometres. The Reserve has snow capped mountains, grasslands, lakes and wild animals.

9. Los Alerces National Park, Argentina

Located in Patagonia, the Los Alerces National Park was created in 1937 with the aim of protecting the pure forests. Tourists can visit the National Park in the warmer summer days in January and February. There are various activities that tourists can take part in, such as hiking, trekking, sailing on the lakes as well as self guided walks in the forests.

Clear water lakes in the Andes. Image by Sam Burnett

10. Sacred Island of Okinoshima, Japan

This sacred island is between the island of Kyushu and the Korean Peninsula.  What makes this island so sacred is that the island is strictly for males who are allowed to be nude (the island bans any females). The men bathe in the sea to remove any impurities. Every year, up to 200 men are allowed to visit the island on the 27 May to honour sailors who died nearby the island during the Russo-Japanese War.

11. Sambor Prei Kuk Temple Zone, Cambodia

This art-rich archaeological site is in the Kampong Thom province in Cambodia. The temple zone is also referred to as ‘temple in the richness of the forest’ and is extremely popular among tourists. The province prides itself in fine arts.

The site of ancient Ishanapura in Kamong Thom province. Image by Tomonori Kimura

12. Kulangsu, China

Located on the Chiu–Lung River facing Xiamen, is Kulangsu also known as Gulangyu and the island is a big tourist destination known for being a pedestrian-only island. Cars and bicycle are banned on the island and only small electric buggies are allowed to be used.

13. City of Yazd, Iran

The city of Yazd is in central Iran and is known for architecture, temples and religion. Yazd means to feast and worship. Yazd has maintained its traditional structures with domed roofs and mud brick houses. The city is the only UNESCO-listed city in Iran where people still live.

Traditional mud houses. Image by Franx

14. Kujataa Greenland, Denmark

This sub-arctic farming landscape in Greenland was created based on farming, grazing and marine mammal hunting during the medieval times. Kujataa Greenland represents the early land use in the Arctic and holds the ruins of the Norse settlements.

Mountainous terrain. Picture by W Bernard

15. M’banza Congo, Angola

M’banza Congo was one of the largest constituted states in Southern Africa from the 14th to the 19th century. It was taken over by the Portuguese Colony of Angola in the 15th century. M’banza Congo was the initial spiritual and political capital of the Kingdom of Kongo (as it was then known). Now it is the market centre for maize, groundnuts, almonds, sesames and oil production.

16. Historic city of Ahmedabad, India

Ahmedabad is also known as Ahmadabad and Ahemdavad. It is the sixth-largest city in India. The city is a winner when it comes to architecture with old mosques, museums and restaurants. Although the city is not known for being a tourist destination, it is definitely worth a visit. Have a look here

17. Assumption Cathedral and Monastery of Sviyazhsk, Russia

The Assumption Cathedral and Monastery of Sviyazhsk was founded by Ivan the Terrible, the first Tsar of Russia in 1551. The cathedral is located on an island town called Sviyazhsk, in Tatarstan. It is famous for its history as well as the mural painting on the walls of the horse-headed Saint Christopher.

Sviyazhsk was founded in 1551 as a Russian fortress. Image from UNESCO

18. Caves and Ice Age Art in the Swabian Jura, Germany

The Caves and Ice Age Art in Swabian Jura in southern Germany is rumoured to be where humans first arrived 43000 years ago. It is here that the oldest figurative artwork and early musical instruments were found. These objects were carved from various materials, including mammoth ivory.

19. Hebron/Al- Khalil Old Town, Palestine

Hebron/Al-Khalil city is declared one of the oldest cities in the world, dating back to more than 3000 years BC. This is the town of religious significance and has holy sites such as Al-Ibrahimi Mosque and the Tombs of Patriarchs. Hebron/Al-Khalil makes this city the third Palestinian World Heritage Site.

Hebron is the oldest Jewish community in the world, dating back to Biblical times. Picture by Adrian Guerin

20. Venetian Works of Defence, Croatia, Italy, Montenegro

The defence system was designed and built to control territories and routes leading to Eastern Europe. This was between the 16th and 17th century. The Venetian Works of Defence represents Croatia, Italy and Montenegro.

21. Landscape of Dauria, Mongolia and Russia

The Landscape of Dauria is the eleventh World Heritage site in Russia and the second in Mongolia. The Russian side encompasses the Daursky Nature Reserve. This landscape is important because it acts as a breeding ground for crane species, migrating birds and Mongolian Gazelle between Russia and Mongolia.

Communities have been staying in Dauria for nearly 3 000 years. Image by Akavit Terahdit

The best way to get a real taste of a new place is to stay with the locals. This is why we chose to explore the south of India via her heritage homestays.

Read the full story about our Food Editor’s adventure through Kerala in the October issue.

In Kerala we learnt about the traditional cuisine by observing the woman of the house at work in her kitchen. At Vanilla County Rani Vallikappen showed us how to make her dal recipe. Dal was served for lunch and dinner at the homestay and always with rice.

It has the consistency of a sauce and is made of cooked dried, split pulses with fried aromatics stirred through. Rani uses chana dal, which is yellow and related to the chickpea (available in South Africa from spice shops and specialist food stores) and her secret to good flavour to use a healthy amount of onion and garlic and cook it until golden.

Rani’s Dal recipe

Feeds 4 as part of a curry feast.

Rani stands outside the homstay in Kerala; and the gorgeous lunch spread at Vanilla County is pictured on the right. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Ingredients

1 cup chana dal, soaked in cold water overnight

1 tablespoon coconut oil

1 teaspoon black mustard seeds

60g onion, sliced into slivers

25g garlic, sliced into slivers

quarter teaspoon chilli powder

handful of fresh curry leaves

half teaspoon to 1 teaspoon sea salt

Method

1. Rinse the dal and add to a small pot with four cups of cold water. Bring to the boil and cook until the dal is soft and smooth with a saucy (but not soupy) texture. If necessary, add another cup of water and keep cooking until it reaches the right consistency.

2. Add the coconut oil and mustard seeds to a pan and heat over a medium to medium-low heat until the mustard seeds start popping. As soon as the popping starts, add the garlic and onion and cook until the garlic and onion is softened and golden but not brown.

3. Add two tablespoons of water to the pan (so the chilli doesn’t burn) and add the chilli powder and curry leaves, cooking until the water is evaporated.

4. Season the dal with salt and stir well. Tip into the pan with the onion-garlic mixture and stir to combine. Heat through if necessary and serve with rice.

See more in October issue of Getaway magazine.

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The best guide to weekending in Golden Gate; how to go shark diving (without a cage); exploring the high peaks of the Rwenzoris and heritage homestays with delicious food in Kerala.

South African locals give us the inside scoop on the trendiest, must-see neighbourhoods across the country.

Explore these cities differently. This is how to find the best social spots, excellent foodie spots, hot places to shop and top coffee stops.

1. Keyes Avenue, Johannesburg

This street has become a prime stretch of modern SA art, design and architecture – witness the landmark Circa gallery and new Trumpet building alongside it. Shopkeeper David Davey gives us a local’s tour of the Keyes Art Mile.

Grab a coffee

There’s still so much room in Joburg for good coffee. Instead, Milk Bar just next door to us makes good hot chocolate, for when the anxiety is peaking a little too much! 21 Keyes Avenue, tel 0105945128.

Best bites

At BGR you get a basic burger (R55) or cheeseburger (R60) and then select your own free toppings. The milkshakes are great and the frozen custard is something worth trying. 19 Keyes Avenue, tel 0105934545.

Shop here

Shelflife is a sneaker and streetwear store founded in 2006 with its roots firmly based in graffiti and street art. The store now exclusively stocks all the major footwear brands’ top lines. but David says they’re also working on their own label. The Joburg store opened in August 2016 in the new Trumpet building. Rosebank is probably the No. 1 up-and-coming area in the city. It’s super convenient for travellers to find their way around, everything is on your doorstep, and it’s surrounded by lovely suburbs.

Get social

Sin and Tax is a small, secret cocktail bar not too far away. At the back of Coalition Pizza, Bolton Road, tel 0109004987. MESH Members Club & Bar is cool for after-work drinks. The public are welcome to go there, just with a few less perks than members! 2nd floor, 21 Keyes Avenue, tel 0105945545.

Explore more

There are a few running crews in the area, such as the Nike+ Run Club on Tuesdays or our Shelflife Crew – we head out from the store at 6pm on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays. There are also a lot of art galleries and design-oriented shops.

The inside scoop

Jake Read is the manager and curator at Circa and Everard Read Gallery. He tells us the Everard Read Gallery, established in 1913 by Jake’s grandfather, moved to Rosebank in 1980. In 2009 the Read family launched Circa nearby.

Recently, three other galleries have opened in the precinct: SMAC, What If The World and Southern Guild. Together, they’ve created a major destination for contemporary African art. The Keyes Art Mile has become a hotspot, a really fun and funky place to hang out. It’s bringing a lot of new people here. Every first Thursday of the month, the galleries stay open late, the whole street gets closed. There are food trucks and live music. It creates a nice young buzz in the area to expose everyone to the arts.
Also read: 12 must-see art galleries in Joburg.

2. Parkhurst, Johannesburg

Known as ‘Antique Alley’ back in the 80s, Parkhurst’s 4th Avenue has turned into one of the city’s key entertainment and shopping destinations. Shop owner Harry Fokker give’s us a local’s tour. Harry launched his parody and pop culture T-shirt label online in 2004, but now has a shop on Fourth Avenue. ‘There’s plenty of vibe and bustle here. See and be seen, but with a laid-back feel’.

Grab a coffee

‘I’m a straight-up espresso kinda guy. No frills, no fuss. At 4th Avenue Coffee Roasters they make it strong. It’s just such a cool and refreshing space in the classic street-café style. Cobbles Centre, corner of 11th Street, tel 0823782109.

Best bites

Rockets. It rocks! The vibe is incredible, staff are on the ball and the food, more importantly, is fantastic. It has two bars and on weekends Rockets quite literally takes off. I love the fillet au poivre, my wife enjoys the gravadlax of salmon.’ Corner of 10th Street, tel 0118806102.

Shop here

Hunter Gatherer has vintage pieces focused mainly on men’s interests and decor. It’s a must-see. You’ll understand when you walk in. 11 Fourth Avenue, 011-880-3036.

Macedonia-born Pepi Dimevski started SA Hardcore Tattoos, one of Joburg’s best, a decade ago. You’ll need to book well in advance. Tel 0113272812.

Get social

Taphouse has a sterling spread of craft beers, on tap and bottled. My favourite right now is No. 3 Fransen Street Cream Ale, SAB’s crafter offering. Taphouse calls itself a ‘pint-sized pub’ but there’s a big, hearty atmosphere here. 7 Fourth Avenue, tel 0110268968.

Explore more

Parkhurst is fondly referred to as ‘The Village’ by residents and regulars. It’s in the heart of the green belt and geographically quite secluded, given the boundary. You’ll find me out on the cycling trails between Delta Park and Joburg Botanical Gardens. The parks in general have some amazing trails, and the suburbs are all cyclist-friendly. Joburg is a sprawling, rangy cacophony with a true, cosmopolitan heart and I love it.

The inside scoop

Do The Village Tour. It’s a great place to spend a day or night out. Start on one end of Fourth Avenue and make your way along. Hit off with a pint at The Jolly Roger (at No. 10), the legendary pub on the corner of Sixth, swing by Tshirt Terrorist, of course, then continue along arguably the trendiest high street in Joburg. There’s a superb mix of eateries – The Wolfpack (No. 21), Bottega (No. 22), Bistro Vine (No. 24), Craft (No. 33), Salsa (No. 38) and others. There are galleries and design studios along Fourth Avenue and Sixth Street, leading up into Rosebank. And on certain Sundays at Verity Park, there are social events such as picnics hosted by the residents’ association.

3. Rivertown Triangle, Durban

It’s got the CBD buzzing, with warehouses transformed into retail hubs, art galleries and bookshops popping up, and young entrepreneurs starting cool livelihoods. Business owner of Curiocity Backpackers, Bheki Dube gives us an insider’s tour. ‘Durban has a lot of hidden treasures, but what I love most is the beautiful architecture (Curiocity is in the gorgeous 1930s art deco building, Ambassador House). The city is so rich in culture; it’s an authentic, urban African city.’

Grab a coffee

The coffee at Artisan Coffeeworks is made from roasted beans from Ethiopia, South America and Jamaica. I always order a double espresso – it keeps me going throughout the day. 8 Morrison Street, tel 0822215143.

Best bites

I highly recommend Bon Bon’s Bake & Take. Durban is known for its curry, and at Bon Bon’s you get the best value-for-money curry in the city. My favourite is the lamb curry and rice or a lamb bunny chow. 14 Sylvester Ntuli Road, tel 0313682419.

Get social

I love The Chairman! It’s probably one of the best bars in the world. It has great design, a wonderful atmosphere and the best jazz. Open from 19:00 Thursdays to Saturdays, R150 entry. 146 Mahatma Ghandi Road, tel 0313682133

Explore more

The Curiocity Walking Tour starts off at the old Rivertown Beerhall, where we look at the history and heritage of the space. There’s great public art there too. Then you can venture off to Warwick Junction, one of the largest informal trading hubs in SA – you’ll find amazing curry here. Back in Rivertown, there’s Priority Zone, an urban rooftop garden where they recycle everything in the area and grow fresh produce to donate to shelters in the community. Afterwards, you can relax in our holistic urban spa, Nane, at Curiocity Backpackers. R420 per person.

The inside scoop

DOPEstore is owned by a guy called Andile ‘Scotch’ Cele. He collaborates with local clothing designers to create masterpieces. Ambassador House, 61 Monty Naicker Street, tel 073949401.

There is also The Vintager for unique vintage finds. 8 Morrison Street, tel 0823634444.

4. Station Drive Precinct, Durban

Formerly derelict industrial buildings in Morningside have been converted into the city’s first urban creative district and latest playground. ‘Street couture’ designer Sanele Cele gives us a local’s tour.

Grab a coffee

Parkside at The Design Factory is my favourite coffee shop. My regular order is an Americano, no milk or sugar, and the roast-chicken sandwich. 39 Station Drive, tel 0625018326.

Best bites

Going to The Morning Trade on Sundays (8:00 to 13:00) is my downtime and my day off. The market has great food – fresh produce, street food – and it’s a good vibe. The Plant, 5 Station Drive. I also enjoy Mooki’s Noodle Bar (inside Con Amore) for on-the-go food.

Shop here

The decor for sale at Con Amore is beautiful – anything with artisanal craftsmanship gets my love. 15 Station Drive, tel 0313032531.

Get social

Andrew Rall of Distillery 031 gives us the lowdown. ‘The Foundry is the place if it’s bars you’re looking for. On the first floor is S43, home of That Brewing Co – they do amazing salted squid, which goes perfectly with their craft beer. (Sanele goes on Fridays for ‘good beer and pulled pork tacos’) Upstairs is the 031 Bar, which has a 1920s speakeasy vibe, and recently we opened a rooftop bar.

The inside scoop

On First Thursdays, Station Drive stays open late and hosts live music, exhibitions, street food and other entertainment.

5. Richmond Hill, Port Elizabeth

Just up from the harbour, the city’s first neighbourhood has a new lease on life, with talented chefs and a community of artists and entrepreneurs moving in. Sean Brito, third-generation business owner, gives us an insider’s tour. ‘PE is the best-kept secret in South Africa. The weather and beaches are great, and it’s not as congested as other cities. We say PE is a two-song town – that’s how long it takes to get anywhere!’

Grab a coffee

Richmond Hill has some great coffee shops. When the wind is blowing in the right direction, you get the amazing aroma of roasting coffee. Groundfloor Café makes the best cappuccinos, with a marvellous Eggs Benedict with salmon for breakfast.’ 20A Stanley Street, tel 0415822081.

Best bites

The delicious kudu steak (R125) at Backstreet Grill is the talk of the town, and you can enjoy it in a lovely ambience. I am never disappointed when I go there. My other favourite is the T-bone steak (R155). 19 Bain Street, tel 0415823015.

The Granary. I have deep roots in the area – my grandfather Manual, the son of Spanish immigrants, arrived in 1910, started his own bakery at age 16 and moved here to Stanley Street in 1925. In 2007 Matt Repton opened the first Vovo Telo around the corner, then Steven De Beer renovated Stanley on Bain, and we turned our old bakery into a multipurpose space for markets and functions. 20 Stanley Street.

Get social

Salt has some of the best jar and fishbowl cocktails, and is very affordable. The Chocolate Jar (a mix of vodka, Nachtmusik and Steri Stumpie) costs R38. 30 Stanley Street, tel 0415822402.

Explore more

Usen Obot of Galerié Noko recommends. ‘Richmond Hill is in close proximity to the Nelson Mandela Metropolitan Art Museum (1 Park Drive) and ArtEC (36 Bird Street), which ties into the city’s vision of a cultural and art precinct. With my 18-hour work days, I spend a lot of time here.

For coffee there’s the original Vovo Telo in Raleigh Street. For food, I like Fushin’s delicate Asian cuisine (at Stanley on Bain) and Yiayias for savoury family meals (at 20 Stanley Street). Upstairs, at the same address, For The Love Of Wine has some of the best wines this side of the equator. A walk in Settlers Park (off Hallack Road) follows the route of PE’s last remaining stream.

The inside scoop

Richmond Hill and Central have many old buildings, like the Opera House and 7 Castle Hill (tel 0415822512), one of the oldest surviving settler cottages. Most are protected by the Heritage Trust. Shirley Pittaway of Art on Stanley offers fun art classes where you can order in food and drinks from the local restaurants. 1st floor, 20 Stanley Street, tel 0829333158.

6. Green Point, Cape Town

This harbourside neighbourhood has blossomed into a cosmopolitan, trendy playground, with several new mixed-use developments changing its look. Business owner Sue Vith gives us a local’s tour.‘Green Point has such an upbeat energy. There are always people out and about, from all walks of life – there is something for everyone here. It’s innovative and the creativity here is inspiring.’

Grab a coffee

Go to Giovanni’s to get a coffee – the cappuccino is always a winner. Their food is real home-style cooking and the vibe is always great. The deli also has interesting ingredients if you want to make meals yourself. 103 Main Road, tel 0214346893.

Best bites

Have an exciting evening at El Burro, a fantastic Mexican restaurant with a warm, welcoming atmosphere. (It’s also renowned for having one of the biggest tequila collections in town.) I always have the churros for dessert. 81 Main Road, tel 0214332364.

Shop here

A cute new shop called Mash has lots of local designer stuff up for grabs. Portside Centre, tel 0212861270.

Out of this world. My mother-in-law, Paula, was one of the first people to sell authentic tribal art and furniture in South Africa in the 70s. The legacy continued after a South American holiday turned into a gathering of exotic artefacts for me and my husband Peter, and today the warehouse also stocks items from India and Oceana. 1 Braemar Road, tel 0214343540.

Get social

Gold Restaurant specialises in a 14-course African feast. With djembe drumming and dancing and puppets, it’s an incredibly cheerful way to engage with the culture. 15 Bennett Street, tel 0214214653.

Explore more

We love going for a walk in Green Point Urban Park, a little piece of paradise in the city. I love that it is an eco park that educates visitors about biodiversity (tours R35, tel 0214170111). It showcases a rich variety of Cape flora, and is perfect for exercising, romantic walks or playing with your children. There is a wetland that attracts a lot of birds – it’s really cool to sit on the benches and check out the birdlife. The Parkrun on Saturdays starts outside the stadium and winds its way into the park. Or hire a bike at the Waterfront or Sea Point promenade and ride through the park. From R60.

The inside scoop

Cape Town by day is beautiful but when you see it lit up at night, it is absolutely magic. One of my favourite places is The Vue Sky Bar & Lounge to have a drink and tapas. Try the peanut and chilli wontons. 15th floor, 40 Chiappini Street, tel 0214183065.

7. Observatory, Cape Town

An update on Cape Town’s original alternative enclave. This bohemian suburb has been attracting the young and the alternative for years, and has ridden the wave of many new cultural movements. Food entrepreneurs Tawanda Mushapaidze and Bo Tungamirai give us a locals’ tour.

Grab a coffee

Try the Vietnamese coffee – an iced espresso with condensed milk – with any of the cupcakes at BillyBoo’s Cakery. You will end up having cake for breakfast every day! 61 Station Road, tel 0728461908.

Best bites

Big Momma’s. As two bachelors with limited culinary abilities, we eat out a lot. It was easier to find Chinese or Italian than the food we grew up eating. So we opened Big Momma’s in June 2016, offering authentic, simple meals. 96 Lower Main Road, tel 0214471256.

They also love the stuffed burgers at Jerry’s Burger Bar, in particular the Wrath burger with habanero chillies and cheese – but they like spicy food, so be careful with this one! 123 Lower Main Road, tel 0214478554.

Get social

At The Forex Bar you can interact, exchange ideas with and learn from people from all over the world. 96 Station Rd, tel 0214480083.

A Touch of Madness (in a beautiful old house) is a nice place to grab a beer and try something different. 12 Nuttall Road, tel 0214474650.

Shop here

Black Chillie Style has a wide range of African fabrics and ready-made garments, plus a team of tailors to make up something special for you. 98 Lower Main Road, tel 0214473020.

Also, there’s Ahem! Art Collective, a brand-new space for illustration, concept art and animation. 77 Lower Main Road, tel 0715853423.

Explore more

For some exercise, walking distance away (over the railway bridge, on Liesbeek Parkway), there’s the new Two Rivers Urban Park and The River Club’s golf course – with a great restaurant and 19th hole. Or join the Observatory Running Club on the streets every Wednesday and Friday, tel 0725331644.

Once a month, Art Thursdays in Obs showcases local artists, musicians and creatives.

The inside scoop

There is Touch Down Saturdays at A Touch of Madness with local hip-hop artists, plus wine tastings on Wednesdays, electro-swing parties, silent discos, the list goes on… The Irie Show at Trenchtown (96 Station Road) is every Sunday, with reggae bands and an open-mic for poets. That Place (76 Lower Main Road), a coffee shop-bookstore, has movie nights and talks.

Any trendy areas near you? Which neighbourhoods should we check out next?

Keep your picnic practical and portable with a delicious spread (good for grown-ups and children) that can be prepped ahead.

Here are all the picnic recipes and hacks you need for the perfect summer day out.

New picnic rules for summer

1. The strategy

Picnics should be all about ease of use. No one wants to be slicing, serving, portioning out or carrying the kitchenware that goes with all that. Salad leaves turn limp, dressings leak, fruit bruises easily… Here’s the answer: rethink the picnic and approach it as function food.

2. The food

Make small, sturdy, bite-sized things that don’t need crockery or cutlery. Hand out linen napkins, which look good and lighten the load (and won’t end up as litter), leaving everyone to help themselves.

3. The containers

Airtight tins lined with napkins make for swishy presentation without any heavy lifting. Stack them in a collapsible crate for transporting, then pop off the lids and serve. Try vintage biscuit tins, kitchen storage tins or enamel roasting pans that have lids.

4. The glasses

Do pack glasses and spare your guests the tepid wine from a paper cup. Go for the iconic French bistro glass (above) – stackable Duralex Picardie tumblers (from R92,55 for a set of six) – or Vicrila Elytium wine glasses (around R40). Both are made from tempered glass and pretty resistant to breaking. Stainless-steel is another keep-it-cool option.

5. The must-have tool

The Opinel No.10 Corkscrew Folding Knife (R450) is an all-in-one tool that eliminates the awkward question: who brought the bottle opener?

Also read: How to make your own plastic-free picnic kit.

The only picnic recipes you need this summer

Stuffed eggs, sausage rolls and spicy ham sandwiches are all classic picnic nosh. The metal dish is also a more practical serving alternative to paper plates. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Spicy ham sandwiches

Makes 8
Prepare the night before, arrange in a baking tin covered with a dampened tea towel and seal. Keep it in the fridge until just before you leave.

Ingredients
145g cooked ham, finely chopped
2 sweet gherkins, finely chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1⁄4–1⁄2 teaspoon Tabasco
1⁄4 cup mayonnaise (more creamy than tangy, such as Hellman’s)
8 slices white bread
chives, finely chopped, (optional)

Method
1. Mix the ham, gherkins, mustard, Tabasco and mayo together until well combined.
2. Spread about 1⁄4 cup of this filling onto each sandwich, slice off the crusts and cut into triangles. If you like, press one side of each triangle into the chives.

Stuffed eggs

Makes 12

Ingredients
6 eggs, at room temperature
1 tablespoon softened butter
2 tablespoons extra-virgin
olive oil
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
white pepper, freshly ground, and salt
finely chopped parsley

Method
1. Fill a medium-sized pot with water and bring to the boil.
2. Add the eggs and cook for 9 minutes. Drain and fill the pot with cold water.
3. Once cooled, peel the eggs.
4. Halve the eggs lengthways, scoop out the yolks and place in a bowl.
5. Add the butter, olive oil and mustard to the yolks, season and mix well.
6. Arrange the egg whites in the container they will be served in, cut side up, and season.
7. Pipe or spoon the yolk mixture into the whites and sprinkle with parsley. Cover tightly and refrigerate until just before you leave.

Sausage rolls

Makes about 20

Ingredients
500g roll frozen puff pastry, defrosted but refrigerated
500g good-quality pork sausages
1 egg, beaten
sesame seeds (optional)

Method
1. Make these on the day. Preheat oven to 220 ̊C, rack in the centre.
2. Unroll the pastry onto a board with the short end closest to you.
3. Squeeze the meat out of the sausage skins and onto the pastry. Fold over the pastry and cut along the line of the just-folded pastry.
4. Cut into sausage rolls and place on a baking sheet. Repeat to use up all the meat and pastry.
5. Brush the sausage rolls with beaten egg and sprinkle with seeds.
6. Bake for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 180 ̊C and bake for 10 to 15 minutes until the sausages are cooked through and the pastry is puffed and golden.

From left, raspberry friands, Pippa’s ginger biscuits, sausage rolls, stuffed eggs and spicy ham sarmies – all elegantly served on linen napkins. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Pippa’s ginger biscuits

Makes about 40
Halve the ingredients to make 20 (you can use the other half of the egg for brushing the sausage rolls).

Ingredients
120g butter
2 tablespoons golden syrup
240g flour
1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda
2 teaspoons ground ginger
240g granulated sugar
1 egg, beaten

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180 ̊C, rack in the centre.
2. Heat the butter and syrup over medium-low heat until just melted and combined.
3. Sift the flour, bicarb and ginger into a bowl. Add the sugar and make a well in the centre.
4. Pour the butter-syrup mixture into the dry ingredients, add the beaten egg and mix well.
5. Roll small balls of dough and place on a greased baking sheet, leaving space between each ball to allow for spreading.
6. Bake for 15 minutes or until dark golden.

Raspberry friands

Makes 32
They sound fancy, but they’re really not. The mini versions are the perfect ratio between sweet abtter and tart fruit, but you could also make them in a normal-size muffin tin.

Ingredients
150g unsalted butter, melted & extra for greasing
185g icing sugar
40g cake flour
5 egg whites (about 150ml)
100g ground almonds
125g raspberries (1 small punnet)

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180 ̊C and butter a miniature muffin tin – grease it well so they pop out easily.
2. Sift the icing sugar and our into a bowl.
3. In a separate bowl, lightly whisk the egg whites.
4. Add the butter, almonds, sifted icing sugar and our and mix until well combined.
5. Spoon the mixture into the mu n tin so each hole is about two-thirds full.
6. Top each one with a raspberry and bake for 15 minutes or until a skewer inserted comes out clean and the tops are light gold.

The best-value wine to pack

The bubbly: Born in the Worcester vinelands, the Meander Pink Moscato NV won the Best Value 2016 sparkling award, for good reason. It’s pink, it’s on the sweet side, it’s R50 and the judges described it as ‘unpretentious, fun and delightful’. Sounds like a dream picnic.

The perfect white: Yes, he’s famous for Chenin, but Ken Forrester’s Petit Sauvignon Blanc 2016 (R45) shows how versatile the man can be. It’s a lip-smacking little beauty at a very good price, making it a shoo-in category winner at the Best Value awards.

The quafferbox: Go on, buy yourself a cardboard cask and carry it with pride. And when you’re praising Bacchus in the sunshine, the dry and crispy, low calorie, low alcohol (9%) 5L Drosty Hof Extra Light at around R30 per litre will do nicely. Don’t swirl, don’t sniff, just open wide and enjoy.

Wine heat-hacks

Picnics have a major flaw: sunshine. It’s good for lizards but bad for winos. I obsess about temperature when dragged al fresco because, wet rooikrans braai wood aside, few things in life are less satisfying than a warm glass of wine. In fact, I’d rather have a cold glass of Chateau de Plonk than a warm bottle of Chablis.

So here are three invaluable heat hacks:
1. Chill your wine a bit more than usual – and decant it into a flask. Yes, that device you use for coffee works equally well as a cooler.
2. Open a vat of cardboardeaux, drain as much wine as you need to from the silver bag to force a blue ice brick or two into the cavity. Even better, use frozen (still) mineral water bottles. Genius.
3. Nothing beats bubbles. Like screw-top wines, they negate the corkscrew but require extra effort: to maximise surface contact, freeze gel ice packs around a dummy bottle, then strap them (like life jackets) onto the bottle you’re packing.

This story first appeared in the February 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our February issue features a wild new way to traverse the Baviaanskloof, the Okavango Delta’s most affordable safari, 6 local shores to explore and Italy’s 8 prettiest dips.

This mountain range should be on every hiker’s must-do list. Our five experts have spent significant time up there and recommend these great routes for you.

Also read: 12 escapes in the Northern Drakensberg.

1. Rainbow Gorge

Duration: 5 hours
Difficulty: Easy to moderate
Cost: Free for hotel guests, day visitors R50

The iconic Cathedral Peak. Photo by Justin Fox.

Rainbow Gorge Trail is a delightful meander into a verdant kloof. It’s a six-kilometre return walk from Cathedral Peak Hotel – an easy ramble for the whole family. The picturesque trail follows the Ndumeni River upstream, winds through lush forest into a gorge, past rock pools, rapids and waterfalls. Look out for the magnificent yellowwood trees growing here. If you catch the sun in the right position, water pouring down the sides of the kloof throws up sparkling rainbows that dance in the spray. Even without the blessing of rainbows, this is a spectacular nook of the Berg. Recommended by Justin Fox

Do it: You can buy a trail map for R10 at the hotel reception. Cathedral Peak Hotel is in the central Berg, about 30 kilometres from Winterton. From R1495 per person sharing DBB, including teas. Tel 0364881888. The trail can also be started at Didima Camp, which is just east of the hotel. From R1120 for a chalet (sleeps two). Tel 0364881332, kznwildlife.com

2. Injisuthi Battle Cave Walk

Duration: 5 hours
Difficulty: Easy
Cost: R70 per person hiking fee (including guide), R40 day visitor entry

Streams and ghostly falls along the Injasuthi hike. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

A multitude of hiking routes begin from Injisuthi Camp in central Drakensberg, but this 11-kilometre return walk is the most accessible introduction to the mountain wilderness. On this walk, your destination is Battle Cave, a huge sandstone overhang dotted with rock paintings. The cave itself is fenced off so you’ll need to book a community guide at the camp to accompany you. From the camp, walk a short way back down the main road to the first bridge over the river, then follow the gently rising path alongside it.

A few kays on, just upstream from the junction of the Injisuthi and Mbovaneni Rivers, Battle Cave looms large. Move closer, and the rock comes to life with exquisite paintings of eland, the San’s most commonly painted animal. Look out for two paintings of rhinos, and the therianthropes (half-human, half-animal figures). On the far right of the shelter, look for the Bushman about to shoot an arrow from his bow, and the one with a spear. Another holds an axe, and yet more seem to be clustered in a tussle, with arrows flying around them. It’s one of the very few paintings that shows an act of aggression or hunting, but perhaps this is not a literal battle scene but a depiction of the magic and power that shamans were able to harness. Recommended by Scott Ramsay

Do it: Injisuthi is my favourite KZN Wildlife campsite in the mountains, between Monk’s Cowl and Giant’s Castle, with fewer chalets than other bigger camps. There is only a small shop for supplies, and the long, winding potholed R331 access road (off the R600 from Winterton) deters most visitors. Four-bed chalet R660 for two, R310 per extra adult. Camping R95 per person. Tel 0364319000.

3. Sugar Loaf

Duration: 4 hours
Difficulty: Moderate
Cost: Free for resort guests, R30 per person for day visitors

A great hike for kids as well. Photo by Justix Fox.

Start your hike at The Cavern and head for the pimple on the ridge line behind the resort. From The Cavern’s top gate, take the path to the right. In spring, look out for clumps of Barleria monticola, which has an attractive mauve flower. The path continues straight up the slope and is well signposted. When you reach the sandstone ridge (you’ll be puffing a bit, as the going is vertical), the path leads into the craggy Sugar Loaf Gap. Once out on top of the plateau, the views back down the valley are sublime. At this point, take note of any marker that identifies the route back through the gap for your return journey. The path bends to the left and leads to the summit of Sugar Loaf. Here you might be joined by vultures, both bearded (lammergeyer) and Cape, which often soar above the mountain. Recommended by Justin Fox

Do it: Pick up a free map of the route at the resort reception. The Cavern is in the northern Berg, about 45 kilometres from Bergville. From R1200 per person sharing, full board. Tel 0364386270.

4. Giant’s Cup Trail

Duration: Full day (around 7 hours)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Cost: R75 per person day-hiking permit, R45 park entrance fee, local guide R650 for four people and R100 per person extra

Bridges cross streams along the Giant’s Cup trail. Photo by Fiona McIntosh.

Traversing the foothills of the uKhahlamba- Drakensberg Park World Heritage Site from Sani Pass to Bushman’s Nek, the 59,3-kilometre Giant’s Cup Trail (GCT) is the most accessible multi-day trail in the range. As it weaves beneath golden cliffs, past weather-sculpted sandstone rocks and through swaying grasslands studded with protea, watsonia and helichrysum, the trail takes you to lookouts, over mountain streams, through dells of tree ferns and to caves with (poorly preserved) rock paintings.

Sightings of Verreaux’s eagles, jackal buzzards, dassies and eland are common, while occasional sightings include blue cranes and bearded vultures. Old farmhouses provide rustic overnight accommodation and there are lots of gorgeous pools in which to bathe, particularly at Ngenwa (day 1), the Mzimkhulwana hut (day 2) and Killiecrankie (day 3). Wildflowers dazzle in spring and summer, while in winter the high peaks are often sprinkled with snow. The trail is well marked and has no mega-climbs, but it is undulating so do some training with a loaded pack. You can stock up on snacks at the park offices, but bank on carrying all your supplies. Recommended by Fiona McIntosh

Do it: The trailhead is on the Sani Pass road, off the R315 from Himeville/Underberg, six kilometres past the Sani Pass Hotel. Tel 0338451000, kznwildlife.com

On SA Adventure Trails’ four-day Giant’s Cup Hikeathon slackpacking option (which covers the GCT’s days 2 and 3 in one day), you walk with a daypack and are shuttled to and from guesthouses near the trailheads. R4600 per person for a group of four minimum. There’s also a three-day walk ending in the Drakensberg Gardens valley. drakensberg-hikes.co.za

5. Amphitheatre Hike

Duration: Full day (around 7 hours)
Difficulty: Strenuous
Cost: R75 per person day-hiking permit, R45 park entrance fee, local guide R650 for four people and R100 per person extra

Endless, endless views from the top of the Amphitheatre after a strenuous hike. Photo by Fiona Mcintosh.

The five-kilometre-long, 1200-metre-high cliff face of the Amphitheatre, bookmarked by the Eastern Buttress at one end and the Sentinel at the other, is an instantly recognisable Berg landmark. It looks impenetrable, but for fit hikers with a head for heights, the trail to the top of the plateau is straightforward. From the car park, the path climbs steeply via a series of zigzags to the base of the imposing Sentinel. The hard work is over, so stop here to take in the views, then continue round at the base of the cliffs to the foot of the famous double chain ladders, which lead to the top of the natural fortress. At the top, turn left and walk for half an hour or so on a weathered track to where the Tugela River cascades off the escarpment to form the second-highest waterfall in the world (after Venezuela’s Angel Falls).

Here, at over 3000 metres above sea level, the air is thin and you look down on soaring birds. The vistas over the jagged peaks and pinnacles of the northern Berg are magnificent; less obvious are the endemic plants that survive in this rugged mountain wilderness, so linger a while – all the time watching the weather – before retracing your steps. Note: this is a serious mountain outing. Inexperienced hikers should take a guide. Recommended by Fiona McIntosh

Do it: The trailhead is the Sentinel car park, in the Maloti Drakensberg Transfrontier Conservation Area, seven kilometres (on a poor road) from Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge (28 kilometres from Phuthaditjhaba in the Free State). Hikers cabin from R495 per person sharing B&B, bungalow from R745 per person sharing B&B. Tel 0732287391.

This day hike forms part of the Amphitheatre Heritage Hike, a three-day guided trail (with porterage available) run by Active Escapes, which starts at The Cavern resort and finishes at Mahai campsite in Royal Natal National Park. From R3850 per person for a group of four. active-escapes.co.za

6. Icidi Gorge

Duration: 3 days
Difficulty: Extreme
Cost: R170 per person one-way hiking permit, R45 park entrance fee

It may be extreme, but this is one gorgeous trail. Photo by Shane Quinnell.

This route includes scaling the famous Sentinel ladders and standing on the mighty escarpment – both things all hikers should do at least once – with an additional sojourn through Lesotho and a gorge considered hectic even by Berg standards. Start the hike following the Amphitheatre route (see previous page) until the mighty Tugela Falls; from here, head southeast to reach Icidi Gorge (about 15 kilometres from the car park). There is no real path but the beautiful rolling grass plains of Lesotho make for relatively easy walking, as long as you have decent maps and navigation skills.

At an altitude of around 3000 metres, it may take your breath away. The top of Icidi Gorge is fairly wide and grassy, with one or two caves. After spending the night here, you head down the steep, pathless gorge until your legs are burning – you will hit sections with denser vegetation but there is still no path; other parts will entail some scary scrambling (as maps suggest, ‘ropes may be required’). It’s beautiful but deserves respect. Once you are out of the gorge, the walking gets easier. From here, you follow the valleys to Mnweni Cultural Centre (about 30 kilometres from the top of the gorge), through a landscape of rivers, lusher vegetation, flowers and traditional Zulu villages. Difficulty aside, this hike is remote and receives little traffic so it’s worth doing if you want a proper adventure.Recommended by Shane and Tarryn Quinnell

Do it: The hike starts at Sentinel car park. Stay here the night before (dorm bunk bed R110 per person – no need to book) or Witsieshoek. We suggest an overnight stop before you tackle Icidi Gorge (there are caves, which are safer than pitching a tent on the Amphitheatre escarpment), and another overnight stop once you have exited Icidi – camp not too far from the end of the gorge, as it gets more populated further down. Stay at Mnweni the night after.

7. The Bell Traverse

Duration: 3 days
Difficulty: Extreme
Cost: R70 per person per night hiking permit

Three days of magic along the Bell Traverse. Photo by Shane Quinnell.

Imagine a typical Berg hike: majestic mountains, intense exposure, mighty rock faces and mind-exploding views. Then imagine the same thing on steroids, concentrated into a traverse seven kilometres long but which takes most of a day. The Bell Traverse starts from Bugger Gully, the short steep path at the base of Cathedral Peak on the southeastern side. It is accessed by the standard Cathedral Peak route, which requires about 10 kays of fairly steep hiking (fill your water bottles when you can as there is no water on the traverse).

If you get to the plateau below Cathedral after 15:00, pitch camp there – don’t try the traverse in the dark! From Bugger Gully, this phenomenal route winds like a serpent between The Bell, Twins and Mitre, some of the better-known peaks of the Cathedral valley, to the top of Mlambonja Ravine, just below the Berg escarpment. Expect dramatic big-mountain scenery and about five scrambling sections, where one has to tip-toe across rock faces a few metres wide over large drops of nothing below. Depending on your progress you can sleep in Bell Cave (halfway along the traverse) or at Twins Cave (just before you cross over to Mlambonja Ravine). You hike back to the hotel via the ravine – steep with a semi-decent path. Take the southern path at the fork and follow the trails east for about 10 kilometres. If night falls, Xeni Cave offers shelter.  Recommended by Shane and Tarryn Quinnell

Do it: Stop by Didima Camp to collect permits and a map. The hike starts from the grounds of Cathedral Peak Hotel.

8. Mnweni Pass and Rockeries Pass

Duration: 3 days, 2 nights
Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous
Cost: R60 per person per night hiking permit

One of the most remote routes you can do in the Drakensberg. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

This route explores the most remote, and for many the most beautiful, part of the Drakensberg. The first day is spent walking into the high hills below the escarpment, with a stay overnight at the base of Fang’s Pass, alongside the junction of the Mubudini and Mnweni Rivers. Because Mnweni is outside the formal protected area of the greater World Heritage Site (for now), there are few other hikers in this part of the Berg – although dagga smugglers and cattle rustlers sometimes use these passes at night (camp away from the main path).

Start early the next morning, and continue up the banks of the Mnweni River until you reach the pass. From there you’ll ascend 800 metres in a mere kilometre-and-a-half; a tough, steep climb but the views at the top are mesmerising. As the sun falls in the sky, the Mnweni Pinnacles are silhouetted with gold. Set up camp on top of the escarpment, then pull out that flask of single malt. The next day, carry on across the escarpment towards the top of Rockeries Pass. Along the way, you’ll cross a small stream. Stop and fill your water bottles, and know that this is the source of the mighty Orange River, which flows into the Atlantic Ocean some 2000 kilometres away. Carry on down Rockeries Pass and look out for Cape vultures nesting on the cliffs. At the bottom, follow the Thonyelana River (take a well-earned dip in the rock pools), then back onto the road which ends up at the hiking centre where you started. Recommended by Scott Ramsay

Do it: The Mnweni region is owned and managed by the community. This hike starts and ends at Mnweni Cultural & Hiking Centre, on the D1736 past Woodstock Dam coming from Bergville. Rondawel R250 per person, camping R90 per person. Tel 0727122401

If you haven’t hiked here before, a guide is recommended – Caiphus Mthabela lives nearby and is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable. R1000 a day for up to three hikers, R400 per person extra. Tel 0736039107, emachibinitraveltours2015@gmail.com.

Meet the experts

Fiona McIntosh
Author of several guides to SA’s best hiking trails, Olympian, and our go-to for all things walking.
I fell in love with the Berg as a child. These days I spend every Christmas at The Cavern resort in the northern Berg, and use it as a base for hiking.
What keeps me coming back? I’m drawn by the light, colours and champagne air. Down in the valleys, it’s lush and verdant. A stream disappears into thickets and emerges to cascade through pools that invite a bracing plunge. The sandstone comes in shades of red and ochre, lending a warmth that’s absent among the basalt peaks. Up there, it’s a stony world of browns and greys, ground scrub and sublime starkness.
My best memory of the Berg? In 1939 my uncle, the poet Uys Krige, went pony trekking and spent a week in the Amphitheatre’s hiking hut. He wrote a book about it, Na Die Malutis. Last year I retraced his steps using the book as my guide. It was an unforgettable, soulful time of walking alone. My favourite hike of all time? The Amphitheatre summit via the famous chain ladders. It’s the ultimate Berg ascent with the most spellbinding views.

Justin Fox
Former Getaway editor-at-large, author, and annual Drakensberg pilgrim.

I fell in love with the Berg as a child. These days I spend every Christmas at The Cavern resort in the northern Berg, and use it as a base for hiking.
What keeps me coming back? I’m drawn by the light, colours and champagne air. Down in the valleys, it’s lush and verdant. A stream disappears into thickets and emerges to cascade through pools that invite a bracing plunge. The sandstone comes in shades of red and ochre, lending a warmth that’s absent among the basalt peaks. Up there, it’s a stony world of browns and greys, ground scrub and sublime starkness.
My best memory of the Berg? In 1939 my uncle, the poet Uys Krige, went pony trekking and spent a week in the Amphitheatre’s hiking hut. He wrote a book about it, Na Die Malutis. Last year I retraced his steps using the book as my guide. It was an unforgettable, soulful time of walking alone. My favourite hike of all time? The Amphitheatre summit via the famous chain ladders. It’s the ultimate Berg ascent with the most spellbinding views.

Scott Ramsay
Photojournalist, outdoor specialist, and has been to every wild place in South Africa.

Twenty years ago I picked up an old copy of A Camera in Quathlamba, a black-and-white photography book by Malcolm Pearse, the first to do justice to these mountains. Ever since then, I’ve been inspired to wander here with my camera.
What keeps me coming back? To me, the Berg is like a predatory animal: intriguing and intimidating, attractive and dangerous at the same time.
My best memory of the Berg? The night I spent alone on a ledge overlooking the Tugela Gorge. I lay down in my sleeping bag at sunset and watched shooting stars raining down on the immense basalt cliffs of the Amphitheatre. When I woke up at first light, I was engulfed in a thick mist. My favourite hike of all time? A five-night, six-day trek that starts at the Sentinel, up to the top of the Amphitheatre, then along to Mnweni cutback, past Cockade and Cathedral Peak, down Organ Pipes Pass into Didima Gorge, to end back at the Cathedral Peak Hotel for a cold beer and the best food in the mountains.

Shane and Tarryn Quinnell
Extreme adventure couple, currently on a journey to summit Africa’s five highest peaks.

For me [Shane] the Berg is a place of awe and mystery which was etched in my memory as a child. My wife Tarryn and I have fallen in love with the dramatic nature, and find ourselves regularly coming back to hike, climb and bike.
What keeps us coming back? Only one word truly describes the Berg: epic. It’s near impossible to find a mountain range like it anywhere else in the world. It is a unique, ancient and incredible place.
Our best memory of the Berg? Unfurling our bivy sacks (waterproof sleeping bag covers) on a plateau below Cathedral Peak, with one of the most amazing views in the world, knowing that no one else has the same view. Then watching the world change through a rainbow of colours to darkness illuminated by countless stars. Our favourite hike of all time? The mighty Bell Traverse. It encompasses the soul of the dragon: epic valleys and cliff lines, jaw-dropping views, cave sleeping and stomach-churning exposure.

Map of the 8 best hikes in the Drakensberg

This story first appeared in the June 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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On holiday, you want to put your feet up and relax. Adding cooking duties to the schedule is the last chore anyone wants, but what happens when cooking plays a huge role in your life?

I spoke to five local chefs to discover their most memorable holiday destinations – and whether they get to hang their aprons up. This is how chefs travel and unwind from their work. You can find the Chefs on Holiday feature every month in the Bites section of the Getaway Magazine.

1. Celebrity TV chef, Siba Mtongana

Siba showcases her recipes on the Food Network. Photo from Food Network.

My kind of holiday is at the seaside or exploring cities. The places we return to are Pezula in Knysna, which is not too far from home, and Zimbali Coastal Resort and Estate on the North Coast – that always truly feels like a holiday as it needs proper planning and management because we’re a big, modern-day family!

I’m a foodie through and through (or ‘waya-waya’, as we’d say in isiXhosa) so my holidays include experimenting and experiencing other people’s cuisine and indulging at trendy and not-so-trendy spots.

The best meal I’ve ever had on holiday was prawns on Mombasa Island in Kenya, with the most amazing chilli-butter sauce. They were as big as my hand. Malindi in Kenya also blew me away. It’s a coastal town and the seafood was out of this world.

Mombasa Beach in Kenya. Photo by Chris Davies.

The one place in SA everyone should visit is Cape Town, because of its scenery and breathtaking views. The Eastern Cape is also remarkably beautiful – yet to be uncovered by the rest of the world.

My favourite overseas destination is London. I do a lot of shopping; there are so many options and often the prices are quite reasonable. Portugal, Russia and Poland are also very memorable. I don’t cook on holiday because we mostly stay in hotels, but if we rent a house and have friends over, I’ll prepare something for all of us.

2. Gregory Czarnecki of The Restaurant at Waterkloof, Somerset West

Gregory Czarnecki soaking up some sun. Photo supplied by Gregory Czarnecki.

There’s always a food thought behind every holiday. I enjoy going somewhere special and educating my palate, and switching off and relaxing is when the ideas flow. I lived in 19 countries from when I was four, starting in Sweden. This certainly influenced my career choice – we ate many local meals that exposed me to flavours and delicacies; it opened my mind.

I often travel to France to visit my parents in Burgundy, but I do a few side trips. Last year I spent a day finding the top 10 pastry shops in Paris. The best meal I’ve ever had on holiday was in Dijon, the gastronomic capital of France: quenelle (the local fish) served with a crayfish sauce, good bread and wine.

The newest camp in Addo – Nyathi Rest Camp – is exceptional. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

My most memorable holiday was in Sodwana Bay. I spent a whole month there, walking on the beach, cooking for myself and enjoying the simple pleasures of life.

The places in South Africa everyone should visit are Beaverlac near the Cederberg, for total tranquillity, and a road trip along the Garden Route to Addo Elephant Park – taking a break in Knysna for oysters. The title ‘chef’ never leaves you! I always end up doing the cooking on holiday. I prefer it because I get frustrated when food is not done properly and I also love preparing meals for friends and family.

3. Graham Neilson of 9th Avenue Bistro, Durban

Eating like a local when on holiday is never a bad thing. Photo supplied by Graham Neilson.

My kind of holiday is somewhere quiet and remote, where we can self-cater. I especially love it when you can get your ingredients from the area. We often return to Lake Naverone in the Underberg (wonderful chalets on the water), Sungubala Eco Camp near Bergville, and an amazing converted church called St Andrew’s Retreat in the Midlands.

Everyone should go to the Kosi Bay river mouth. It’s absolutely beautiful. Spend a day on one of the tiny islets there exploring and snorkelling.

Sungubala Eco Camp is a rustic, low-key escape in the Drakensberg. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

I was about 13 when I first had oysters in Knysna. At first I couldn’t believe that anyone would eat them on purpose, but I developed a love for them pretty quickly! On our last trip we found the most wonderful restaurant at Fynboshoek cheese farm in the Tsitsikamma. That was well worth the detour.

My most memorable overseas trip was South America with my fiancée. Peru and Bolivia were the best, especially on our tiny budget. Wonderful people and astonishingly good food.

4. Coco Reinarhz of Sel et Poivre, Johannesburg

Chef Coco and his family on vacation in Tunisia. Photo supplied by Coco Reinarzh.

For holidays I prefer cities, but not too far from the sea. I try to taste as much local food as I can so, no, I don’t cook on holiday. Our best family holiday was in Spain – Marbella on the Costa del Sol – because we had the sea, food, wine, culture and golf.

In South Africa I like Zimbali in KZN and Franschhoek. I also love Pilanesberg Game Reserve – it’s so big, every time I go I have the impression of being somewhere else.

The gardens in Le Franschhoek are plentiful and sprawling, trees and flowers filling the courtyards and walkways between hotel units. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

I often go to Dubai. You will find the best of all worlds there – you can have a French breakfast, an Indian lunch and an Arabic dinner. No wonder I always come back with an extra 5kg around my belly! My most to-die-for meal was an Anatolian pairing menu by chef Colin Clague at Ruya in Dubai, with marinated grilled octopus, black-eyed beans and apple vinaigrette, and his lamb shank clay pot.

I’m always surprised by the food in Nairobi, and by the dynamism of the city. I love their nyama choma (like SA’s shisa nyama). I come from a family of chefs in Burundi. I’d say the best food scene in Africa (apart from SA) is a toss up between Kinshasa in DRC and Abidjan in Ivory Coast – I’ve worked in both.

5. Emil Venter of Afro’s Chicken Shop, Durban

Emil Venter, the owner of Afro’s Chicken in Durban.

The one place in SA that people should visit is the Drakensberg. It has so much natural beauty – I’d recommend Hlalanathi Berg Resort, Mountain Splendour Eco-Resort and Drakensberg Gardens. I also enjoy going to San Lameer down the South Coast. I have two young sporty boys and it offers plenty to keep them busy, plus the beach is right on the doorstep.

Little beats a Drakensberg sunset like this. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

My parents were real foodies and as a child we spent quite a few holidays in Cape Town and at the wine farms. I remember having some amazing Cape Malay food. Scotland is a very beautiful country with the most breathtaking countryside. And you can catch freshwater salmon!

My best holiday so far was at Benguerra Island Lodge in Mozambique. It was very chilled out – great accommodation. In Africa, apart from Mozambique, I love Zimbabwe for its friendly people and natural beauty.

Being from Johannesburg, I’ve had very few experiences in the Cape wine regions, but Stellenbosch has always been high on my destination list.

I waited, but received no wedding invites and none of my friends studied in Stellies. So, fresh out of excuses, it was time to explore beautiful Stellenbosch solo – and it’s so much easier than you think.

Also read: Explore a different side to Stellenbosch.

As someone who often travels independently, I know it can be lonely, but more often than not travelling alone is incredibly rewarding. Solo travel is also a growing trend, especially among women. This Contiki article puts it perfectly, ‘Today’s female travelers are independent, unafraid and looking to explore new and authentic destinations their own way.’ Hear, hear!

Here are five things to do by yourself the next time you visit Stellies:

1. Learn about wine

Playing master wine blender at Middelvlei Wine Estate with Ben Momberg, a third-generation wine farmer.

Stellenbosch is a short drive from Cape Town and home to a ton of incredible wine estates – over 200! It can be overwhelming. The best way to learn about wine is to make some at Middelvlei Wine Estate. What a wine maker does in six to seven years, you can do in just over an hour.

It starts with a cellar tour and then you get three components to create your own, unique red wine. First, get a taste for the wines. Do you prefer pinotage or merlot? Wooded or not? Slightly sweet? Your best blend is a matter playing wine scientist: taste and practice. It’s a whole lot of fun and at the end, you even get to cork it too.

The lekker lunch spread at Middelvlei Wine Estate is a braai feast in a delightful farm setting.

After all that hard work, it’s absolutely worth indulging in their delicious braai spread (R180), which includes the best, cheesiest braaibroodjie you’ll ever eat, fresh breads, salads, divine pumpkin fritters (like my gran used to make) and generous portions of meat, like kebabs, wors and chops.

Cost: R135 to blend and take home your own red wine. It also comes with freshly baked potbrood served with a glass of Middelvlei Pinotage Merlot.

When: Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11:00 and every last Saturday of the month.

2. Go hiking

A hike from Dirtopia at Delvera, just outside of Stellenbosch.

Although I was blown away by the enormous variety of wine farms, there are other ways to get outside, like hiking with Dirtopia.

Set off on the Delvera Vineyard Trail and soak up some Stellenbosch sunshine. The trail is 9,7km and takes about 2,5 hours to complete. Set off through sprawling vineyards and end with epic views from Klapmutskop. There are shorter routes on the wine estate, but the views from the top of the koppie make it worth the climb. This is also a very popular trail running location so pack your takkies if you’re training.

There’s a patch of unexpected forest that’s cool and beautiful as you climb to the top of Klapmutskop.

If you’re worried about safety, it’s possible to join a group event. Plan your trip around the monthly full moon hikes, which follow the same route and costs R100.

Cost: R40 for a day permit.

Also read: 14 destinations for women who travel solo.

3. Vinegar tasting

All the flavours and fragrances used in the vinegars at Rozendal are displayed for visitors to see. The cellar is filled with oak barrels full of the wine, just waiting to transform into a beautiful botanical vinegar.

As you’re here by yourself, there are only so many wine tastings you can drink and drive safely away from. The suburbs of Stellenbosch halt abruptly at this organic wine farm, where you can taste the gorgeous Rozendal Vinegar instead.

It may seem obvious, but all vinegar is made from wine and wine naturally wants to turn into vinegar. Rozendal vinegar is made from a blend of red wine cultivars and activated by an indigenous ‘mother’ culture originating from the farm’s first vinegar, which was made back in 1988. This is then fermented in small oak barrels and results in delicious balsamic-style vinegar.

The botanically-infused Rozendal vinegars: Green Tea, Fynbos, Lavender and Hibiscus – all of them delicious!

The tasting is unusual as you have to swig a shot of vinegar, swirl it around in your mouth and wait for saliva to neutralise the acidity. That’s when you can start to taste the botanical infusions. Hibiscus, lavendar, buchu and rooibos are just some of the flavours you’ll pick up. The tour is a fascinating look at the other side of wine farming.

Cost: Vinegar tastings are free!

Also read: 20 things to do in the Winelands for under R100.

4. High tea and luxe living

Airy settings and an amazing high-tea spread just for guests at the Life & Leisure Guesthouse.

Although it’s an easy drive from Cape Town staying over in Stellies makes it a true solo adventure. I stayed at the Life & Leisure Guesthouse. The trendy accommodation is not only stylish and spacious, every day there’s an indulgent high tea, spread out for guests near the pool area.

There’s free Wi-Fi (good enough for Netflix) and if you really want to make the most of being by yourself, book some guilt-free pampering. After all, travelling solo means you can be a little selfish.

Slick interiors at the Life & Leisure Guesthouse. I also loved the complimentary fresh fruit left in the room.

Cost: From R600 per person (in low season, which ends 30 September).

5. Get social at Tiger’s Milk

Tiger’s Milk in Stellenbosch is a spacious restaurant and trendy bar in town.

After all that alone time, end off your adventure with a festive vibe at a local hangout. Tiger’s Milk is less than a kilometre away from the guesthouse. Here you can bank on great, affordable food and good vibes. The thin-base pizzas are great and I can never go without ordering the delectable croquettes.

Cost: Bacon and jalapeno croquettes are R59; the rosemary and parmesan pizza is R75 and the local brew, Tiger’s Milk Lager, is R35.

Evenings aren’t just for winding down. They’re for adventures too. These activities will have you racing around your city, boogying in an ice rink and climbing walls that move.

Seize the night this summer and not just the day. Here are 14 activities you can extend into the evening in Joburg, Cape Town, Durban and Port Elizabeth.

Joburg

1. Carlton Centre

A view of Joburg from the Carlton Centre. The Pinnacle in Kenya is set to replace the Carlton Centre as Africa’s tallest building upon its completion in 2019. Photo by Gandhi Square Precinct.

Salute the setting sun from the 50th floor of the Carlton Centre in downtown Joburg for just R15. The elevator journey to the Top of Africa ends in panoramic views of Joburg with the traffic humming 223 metres below you. On-site telescopes also give you a chance to zoom in on the city’s most recognisable landmarks. One of the safest ways to get there is on a City Sightseeing bus, which includes a tour guide to take you around.

While it currently houses retail businesses and offices, the Carlton Centre is a historic building that has been around since 1973. It is located on 150 Commissioner Street, Marshalltown. Tel 0113081331.

2. Night trail run

Neon lights are usually for Saturday nights, but they can also be for weeknight adventures. Kinetic hosts monthly night trail runs at either the Country Club Johannesburg in Woodmead, Bryanston Country Club, the Randpark Golf Club, Houghton Golf Club or Parkview Golf Club. There’s an eight-kilometre race that starts at 19:30 and a shorter four-kilometre route that begins at 19:40. The first three runners of either the under 40 or over 40 categories receive vouchers and everyone who finishes the race gets a medal. You must wear a headlamp and they’re sold at registration if you forget. Get a head start by paying R70 before race night (later registration costs R100). For more information and upcoming trail run dates, visit kinetic-events.co.za.

3. Yoga under the stars

Yoga might already be a part of your evening workout session, but how about practising poses under a starry ceiling? The Space Yoga and Fitness Studio hosts a Yoga Under the Stars event involving vinyasa flow under the guidance of guest yogi, Sydney King. Tickets are R220 and the session takes place on 28 October 2017 from 18:00 to 21:30. Stick around for the wine and tapas afterwards. Mats are limited so remember to bring your own. Follow the event on Facebook  or call 0729055553.

Durban

4. DurbaNite Race

The Durban Country Club is a kilometre from the beachfront and opposite Moses Mabhida and Kings Park Stadium. Photo by South African Tourism

Founded by radio personality and fitness enthusiast, Phindi Gule, the DurbaNite Race is an event that takes place on the last Friday of every month. Wearing bright running gear with glow-in-the-dark accessories is part of the fun, plus DJs and dancers perform as well. Show Durban some love by making it come alive in an energetic and healthy way. The event encourages families to participate and is all about making the city a free and safe space. You can choose to run in either the 5- or 10-kilometre races, which cost R60 and R80 respectively. It’s taking place at Durban Country Club, which starts at 18:00. Tel 0715212546.

5. Trail run at Giba Gorge

There is less impact on your joints when running on trails compared to running on harder surfaces such as the pavement. Photo by Ludo Rouchy.

The Giba Fun Trail Run Series is on the first Wednesday of every month and costs just R10 to participate. If you’re not a member of the park, you will have to pay R30 at the entrance. The race starts at 18:00 and ends at 20:00 at Giba Gorge Mountain Bike Park.

Giba also hosts free social night rides which begin at 17:30 and anyone is welcome. Non-members will be charged R60 for their bikes. Remember your headlamps for both activities. Tel 0317691419 or 0794514898 or email info@gibagorge.co.za.

6. Laser tag in Ballito

Sugar Rush Park in Ballito is a hive of adventurous activity and Laser Rush is one of their coolest offerings. Their spacious outdoor arena and broken down walls will bring out your rivalrous spirit in this laser version of paintball. The laser tag guns have different settings and you can choose to play in teams or on your own. Their normal closing time is 18:00 from Tuesday to Sunday, but they are sometimes open until 20:00. The cost is R65 per person for 30 minutes and R100 per person for an hour. Laser Rush Ballito is in the process of organising a club or league night for adults that will include a braai and drinks. Keep an eye on their social media for announcements or email laserrushballito@gmail.com or  Tel 0832335165.

Port Elizabeth, East London and St Francis Bay

7. Indoor trampolines and dodgeball

The trampoline craze has swept across the world and SA is not being left out. Gravity Indoor Trampoline Park in PE and East London brings adventures of the bouncing kind with interconnected trampolines. Not wild enough?Join the Gravity Dodgeball League from 18:00 to 20:00. It’s R250 per team for six players for a 30-minute game, booking essential.

Using the trampolines costs R90 per person for an hour and for kids below eight it’s R70. Open until 19:00 from Mondays to Thursdays (until 21:00 during the school holidays and weekends. For PE email info@gravitype.co.za or Tel 0413602883.

The Gravity Indoor Trampoline Park in East London has different prices and hours. It’s R100 per person and R80 per child younger than seven. During school holidays they open until 21:00 from Monday to Saturday and until 19:00 on Sunday. Email info@gravityeastlondon.co.za or Tel 0717102384 0437482767.

8. Sunset cruise

The Khoisan named the Sundays River, Nukakamma meaning ‘grassy water’ because the banks are consistently grassy and green. Photo by Sundays River Adventures.

For R380 per person, take a two and a half hour cruise down the Sundays River. It probably won’t get the heart pumping, but it’s still a daytime activity that you can save for the evening. Plus, who can resist a sunset? You can bring your own food and drinks or order from the Sundays River Ferry menu. Prices will increase to about R420 per person from 1 November 2017 for peak season so try to squeeze in cruise before. Email info@addocruises.co.za or Tel 0414680140.

Cape Town

9. The Cape Wheel

See the Mother City radiate with beauty from the Cape Wheel in the evening. The iconic observation wheel allows you to see Cape Town from 40 metres up on a 10-12 minute ride. It’s a popular daytime activity and is just as exciting at night. Sunset is peak time so make sure you get there before the rush. The Cape Wheel closes at 22:30. Tickets cost R130 for adults and R60 for children. Tel 0214182502 or capewheel.co.za.

10. Glowing Rooms

The people who worked on the interior of Glowing Rooms SA were also involved in The Dark Tower, which was filmed in Cape Town. The film’s props can be seen in the rooms. Photo by Glowing Rooms SA.

It’s a new twist on an old favourite and is in Milnerton, Cape Town. Miniature golf meets a glow-in-the-dark space adventure that feels like you’re in a video game. Play the 18-hole course with 3D glasses under UV lights! Glowing Rooms SA is only open on Fridays and Saturdays from 10:00 to 20:00 and costs R130 per person. Tel 0215512244 or email info@glowingrooms.co.za.

11. Full Moon Hike at Delvera

Forget Lion’s Head. Head to Stellies for the Delvera Full Moon Hikes at Dirtopia. The 9,75 kilometre hike takes you through an indigenous yellowwood forest to the top of Klapmutskop which is part of the Greater Simonsberg Conservancy. The hike starts at sunset which means that you can still marvel at the Winelands and, if it’s clear, even Table Mountain. Vehicles are available to transport children and the elderly from the Pepper Tree, which is approximately halfway to the top.

It’s R100 per adult and R50 for children under 10. You’re sure to be hungry after the hike so bring along your own picnic basket or get one for R80 from the organisers. The hike starts at 17:45 and you need to book a spot. Email info@dirtopia.co.za or Tel 0218844752.

12. Ice and roller skating

Durban’s beloved ice rink was built in 1955 and has historic significance. It was recently renovated to Olympic-size and is now a world-class facility that draws many tourists. Photo by Durban Ice Arena.

Skate to your heart’s content at the Durban Ice Arena during their disco sessions every Friday and Saturday night. The sessions are from 19:00 to 10:30 and entrance is R50 per person. Tel 0313324597.

The Northgate Ice Rink in Northriding, Joburg also has evening sessions from 19:30 to 22:30 from Sunday to Thursday and until 23:00 on Friday and Saturday. Their half-price sessions are every Tuesday. The entrance fee is R75 and you can hire skates for R35. Tel 0117948706.

The ice rink in Baywest Mall, Port Elizabeth also has evening sessions from 19:30 to 22:30. The entrance fee is R75 and skate hire is R35. Tel 0414920318.

Ever seen a grumpy roller skater? Neither have we. Roll Egoli in Bryanston has sessions until 21:00 on Friday and Saturday and they have an old-school mirror ball. If you’ve been dying to show off your dance moves on roller skates, this is the place to do it. It costs R75 for a three-hour session and R35 to hire skates for individuals. For groups of 10 or more it’s R85 per person and for groups of 20 or more, it’s R80 with skate hire included in the fee. Tel 0832329861 or email info@rollegoli.co.za.

13. Indoor climbing

Climbing is a new addition to the Olympics and climbers will be able to compete in Tokyo 2020. Photo by CityROCK CPT.

City ROCK has branches in Cape Town and Joburg and their climbing facilities accommodate people with varied levels of climbing experience. Challenge yourself with their top rope and lead climbing, automatic belay walls and their bouldering areas. City ROCK Cape Town will be relocating to Paarden Eiland in December 2017 so look out for details on their website.

For Cape Town email capetown@cityrock.co.za

For Joburg email johannesburg@cityrock.co.za or Tel 0100072732

If you’re in Durban, head to the Southern Rock Climbing Centre in New Germany and try out their treadwall, a rotating climbing wall that’s sure to give you a workout. You can control speeds and adjust the angle from an overhanging to a vertical angle. They close at 21:00 on Mondays and Wednesdays and at 22:00 on Tuesdays and Thursdays. A day pass for adults is R110 and R80 for scholars. Tel 0317053842.

14. Cycle at night

Early this year, the Maboneng City Cyclists rode from Joburg to Durban on a cross-country journey. Photo by Maboneng City Cyclists

Every Thursday night, the Maboneng City Cyclists get together and take to the Johannesburg streets on their bicycles. The meeting point is outside Love Revo at 17:00 and the cycling starts at 19:00.

If you’re in Durban, Bike and Bean also has you covered and will be open until 18:00 from 1 October for the summer. Bike hire is R50 per hour and your deposit is an ID or Driver’s Licence. Don’t forget to sit down for a delicious cup of their single origin Africa coffee. Tel 0820657096.

Every Thursday, Curiocity Hostels in Durban’s trendy Rivertown Triangle has a night cycle that takes you through the city and the beachfront. The cycle begins at 18:30 and is R200.

In Cape Town, Moonlightmass is a monthly event hosted by Critical Mass Cape Town, a movement that aims to encourage the use of bicycles in cities. The event is from 20:00 until 23:00 so you can spend all evening admiring the nighttime cityscape. An outing is planned for each full moon. The next dates for 2017 are 5 October, 4 November and 3 December.

15. Bonus: Spa night at Four Seasons

This Canadian hotel franchise is in six African countries, namely Egypt, Morocco, South Africa, Tanzania, Mauritius and the Seychelles. Photo by Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff.

If you’re in Joburg and plan to extend your evening, book a spa treatment to end on a relaxing note. The spa at the Four Seasons Hotel The Westcliff will stay open until 23:00 every Friday from 15 September 2017. You can choose one of three treatments, i.e. the Night Spa, Retreat Night Spa or the Suite Retreat Night Spa package. The prices start from R4700, R8250 and R15950 respectively. Visit fourseasonsevents.co.za to find out what each package has to offer. P.S. It’ll include lots of bubbly and canapés.