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Too much month at the end of your money? Even on payday? Save your bucks and use this great list. Here are 10 of the best free things to do in Joburg.

1. Free beer

The best things in life are free – especially if it’s a free beer. Photo by Chris Davies.

Beerhouse (in Pretoria, Joburg and Cape Town) is running a promotion in which you use a password (revealed weekly on social media) to get a free beer on Fridays from 16:00 for an hour or two.

Also read: Eat at 10 of the best bakeries in Joburg with just R50

2. Free walking tours

Cruise the city streets. Here, you can see Nelson Mandela at the Shadow Boxer Outdoor Museum. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Starting at Park Station, this free walking tour of Joburg is a great way to get to know the CBD. Choose to roam Braamfontein (15:30 every day) or the City Centre Tour (at 10:30 and 13:00 every day). You’ll take in the large open-air museum in the corporate mining district, see historical landmarks such as the Chancellor House where Mandela worked as a lawyer in his younger days, the Beautiful Victorian Style Post Office or the buzzing Diagonal Street where you can buy your partner a corn on the cob or grab a beer in the old bar after the tour. (Just know, that even though it is free, a tip is normally granted at the end of the tour).

3. Free art

Goodman Gallery is on Jan Smuts Avenue in Parkwood, Johannesburg. There are several other great galleries within walking distance too. Image from the Goodman Gallery.

Dating back to 1966, the Goodman Gallery is one of the longest standing contemporary art galleries in the country. It also welcomes visitors for free. While you’re in Rosebank, create your own self-guided walking art tour and pop in to the Everard Read and Circa on Jellicoe Galleries – these are free too. Other cool art galleries worth stopping in at are the Wits Art Museum in Braamfontein, which has the largest collection of historical and contemporary art from across Africa, and Gallery Momo.

First Thursdays Johannesburg is a free cultural experience where art galleries and other cultural attractions in Braamfontein, Maboneng and Rosebank stay open late on the first Thursday of every month. Events kick off at 17:00 and you can download self-guided programs and maps to plan your evening.

On the first weekend of every month, Artists Under the Sun happens at Joburg’s Zoo Lake. Up to 40 selected artists come together for SA’s largest open-air art exhibition, which has been taking place since 1960. Pack a picnic and make a (free) day of it.

Also read: 12 must-see art galleries in Joburg

4. Free video games

A great idea for rainy days – try a new video game at the Goethe Institut. Photo by Mark Bonica, Flickr.

The Goethe Institut in Joburg’s new library has a Game Box featuring the latest video games. Open Monday to Thursday 14:00 – 18:00 and Saturday 10:00 – 14:00.

5. Free cultural escapes

The Nan Hua Buddhist Temple in Bronkhorstspruit.

Embrace the east at these beautiful sanctuaries.

Bronkhorstspruit (an hour from Joburg) is home to Nan Hua, the largest Buddhist temple and seminary in Africa. There are free guided tours on Sundays at 13:00. Apart from the magnificent shrines, there is also a collection of traditional Chinese artefacts. Open daily except Mondays.

The Nizamiye Turkish Masjid in Midrand, a replica of the 16th-century Selimiye Camii mosque in Istanbul, has a 32-metre dome and four 55-metre minarets. Visitors are welcome to take in the dazzling architecture of courtyards, fountains, marble columns, stained-glass windows, calligraphy and mosaics. Open daily 04:00 – 22:00 (women are required to cover up).

6. Free history lessons

Beautiful, simple decor at the Satyagraha House in Orchards. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Museum Africa in Newtown is home a fascination collection of Joburg’s ‘firsts’ (traffic light, telephone etc) and features some great exhibitions. Call to check what’s on 0118335624.

The Satyagraha House was once home to Mahatma Gandhi and his Orchards home is now a fascinating living museum-cum-guesthouse. The gorgeous house was named ‘The Kraal’ by Gandhi and his dear friend (who was also the architect) Hermann Kallenbach. The museum is filled with the intertwining history of these two men and is called the Satyagraha House after the passive-resistance movement of the same name.

The Chancellor House is another great free thing to do in Joburg. The well-thought out outdoor museum is housed in the windows of the original attorney’s offices of Nelson Mandela and Oliver Tambo. A time-line has been laid out explaining the story of apartheid accompanied with photographs and interesting facts. Opposite, is an impressive six-metre tall statue of Mandela in his iconic boxing attire by Marco Cianfanelli.

For something more unusual, visit the Fietas Museum in Brixton. The area suffered one of the biggest Aprtheid-era relocations and the small museum is in one of the few surviving original buildings. It includes an exhibition of photographs of the area before, during and after its destruction donated by renowned South African photographer David Goldblatt. It’s closed on Fridays and tours operate daily by arrangement – book in advance by emailing salmapatel@global.co.za.

7. Free flowers

A purple ceiling covers this Gauteng street. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Get up early and see biggest flower market in Africa, Multiflora, in action. Call in advance and book a tour to have the auction process explained and make the most of the experience. This great photo blog by Heather Mason explains the whole process best.

Spring also means Jacaranda season and soon the streets will be painted purple. These are the best tree-lined avenues for seeing these seasonal flowers. Melville (especially 4th Avenue), Greenside. Emmarentia and Westcliff are all gorgeous in Jacaranda season and Munro Drive in Houghton offers great views over the city too. Try Tyrwhitt Avenue and Oxford Road in Rosebank. The suburbs of Parkwood and neighbouring Saxonwold (start at Bath Avenue and zig zag though the suburb). Riviera Road in Killarney towards the Ditsong Museum of Military History is always impressive too.

8. Free views

A pink sunset from Northcliff Hill – in summer, you can also see Bee-eaters swopping up this ridge. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Sundowners at the beautiful Northcliff Hill offers visitors a free views of Joburg that stretch out all the way to the Magaliesberg. You can park your car close by and pack a small cooler with snacks and drinks to watch the afternoon roll by. Although it gets pretty busy on weekends, it’s safest to do in a group.

Melville Koppies Reserve is another great viewpoint and a city heritage site. The vegetation here is completely indigenous and gives an idea of what Egoli was like before the gold rush. It’s also one of the best ways to appreciate the world’s biggest urban forest. From up here it’s easy to see how many trees have been planted in the city. However, there’s been advice to go in groups for safety reasons, so rope in some friends or join a guided tour of the park for 50 bucks each.

The Westcliff Steps (there are 210 in total) are easiest to get to via Crescent Drive or through the pedestrian entrance at the intersection of Wicklow Avenue and Westcliff Drive. Tackling the stairway is great exercise and the views from the top are worth the uphill lunges.

9. Free films

Tarantino at The Bioscope in Johannesburg

Film icon Quentin Tarantino. Enjoy plenty of classic screenings at The Bioscope Independent Cinema

Enjoy a selection of short films on rotation, for free, every Sunday from 11:00 at The Bioscope. It’s a great chance to experience this cool cinema (the seats are actually old leather car seats, some still have the safety buckles too) and enjoy all that Maboneng has to offer on a Sunday, like the free Market on Main.

10. Free markets

The Locrate Market market hosts young entrepreneurs who showcase their work and are keen to interact with young enthusiastic South Africans right in the belly of Soweto.

Luckily, browsing is still free. Visit one of these regular Joburg markets: The Melville 27 Boxes Night Market, , Braamfontein’s Neighbourgoods, Rosebank Sunday Market, Bryanston Organic Market and more are free to enter. Another cool new event to try is the monthly First Fridays late night shopping at 44 Stanley. From Friday 1st September, the trendy design hub is open for drinks, shopping, eating and promises chilled vinyl music. Try new chocolate flavours at Chocoloza, see the ceramic exhibition by Michelle Legg at Pichulik and simply enjoy the unique outdoor setting.

Also read: 12 of the best markets in Joburg

This article, The 10 best free things to do in Joburg, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Melanie van Zyl.

It takes seven hours from Pretoria, but this road trip is so pretty it’s worth the time. And then there’s wonderful Swaziland at the end of it.

Also read: A surprising sojourn in Swaziland

Winding passes along the N4 from Pretoria to Swaziland. Image by Tyson Jopson.

The smell of freshly cut grass hangs in the air as we drive along the N4 past Emalahleni. My colleague, Tyson, and I are on a road trip to Swaziland and I’m in awe of the scale of cultivated land and its different shades of green. Above it, I watch the clouds form different shapes. A six- to seven-hour drive from Pretoria, with a good playlist and winding passes, leads us into Mpumalanga.

With a reputation for being one of the most breathtaking drives, we head along the Genesis Route from Carolina. The potholes are minor and the scenery is spectacular as we cross over the Nelshoogte Pass and into Barberton. After a quick stop for supplies, we continue on the Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail down to the Josefsdal/Bulembu Border Post. I have always been fascinated by Swaziland and am eager to see what it has to offer.

After a painstakingly slow drive along a badly worn gravel road from the border to the town of Piggs Peak, we arrive at Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge. Our rooms are two beehive huts, the shape of rural Swazi homesteads, and filled with luxuries (there’s even a built-in shower!). The magnificent mountain scenery surrounding us is breathtaking … and then I hear the tranquil sound of the waterfall. As the light fades we enjoy a Sibebe Premium Lager, the country’s flagship beer, on the lodge’s deck with owner Rod de Vletter. He shares stories of his travels and the history of the country, while the beer slides down my throat as if to say, ‘Well done on a successful first day. And welcome to Swaziland.’

The interior of the rooms at the Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge. Image by Tyson Jopson.

Just before sunrise the next day we explore some of the 600-hectare nature reserve that surrounds the lodge. We start with a walk along one of the trails that lead through the riverine forest beside a stretch of rapids and pools which culminate in an 80-metre-high sloped descent of rushing water: Phophonyane Falls. Legend has it that a Swazi warrior went hunting on the nearby Gobolondo Mountain for a leopard skin for his beloved maiden. He was captured by witches and turned into a white flower. The grieving maiden cried and her tears created the falls. As we wait for the sun to come up, I close my eyes and take in the scent of my surroundings.

Views of the Phophonyane Falls; The Peak Fine Craft Centre in Piggs Peak started off as a community project. Image by Tyson Jopson.

Back at the lodge, we meet up with Thira Fundzama, who has been a game ranger and guide in Swaziland since 1997. Thira is accustomed to this environment and shares stories of how as a young boy he would run effortlessly up and down these mountains. He takes us on a 4×4 drive through forestry plantations and up to the foot of Gobolondo Mountain. It’s a short but tough hike to the top where you get a 360-degree view of the Makhonjwa Mountains and Bulembu village below.

It’s time to go so we take the dirt road back down to the lodge to say goodbye to Rod and his wife, Lungile, before hitting the tarred MR1 north to Peak Fine Craft Centre. It houses a handful of stores that sell batik items and unique home decor woven from natural fibres. In one of them, I discover the story of Tintsaba Master Weavers. In 1985 its founder, Sheila Freemantle, began a project with 12 local women, teaching them the art of basket weaving as a way to make an income. The project grew and now there are more than 1000 skilled women in the community creating all kinds of fine hand-woven products. We look around the shops and make a speedy retreat just as a bus full of enthusiastic tourists pulls in.

Our Gobolondo guide Thira Fundzama. Image by Tyson Jopson.

We’re back on the MR1 going south, past Piggs Peak again, and about 12 kilometres later take a left onto an unnamed road (look out for the Maguga Dam sign) that takes us to this vast reservoir and lunch at the Maguga View Point Restaurant. Set on a deck high above the valley, it provides astounding views of the 115-metre-high dam wall and Komati River.

In the late afternoon, we head to Malolotja Nature Reserve. With more than 18000 hectares of mountains, grassland and forests, it’s the largest protected area in the Kingdom. It also has a number of short and overnight hiking trails, the total distance of which is around 200 kilometres, so there’s a lot of wilderness for hikers to enjoy. Blesbok roam freely between the self- catering cabins. As the sun begins to set over the bushveld, we end the day with Tyson giving me a crash course on how to start a fire. All I hear are birds and animals. I take a sip of Sibebe and think, ‘I could live like this.’

Views of the Maguga Dam. Image by Tyson Jopson.

On day three, I find myself with one eye open at 5am, back at Maguga Dam patiently waiting for the sun to rise so that we can get some good photos. ‘If you see a hippo, look for cover and run for your life!’ Tyson warns. ‘So why are we heading directly towards the dam?’ I say to myself. The sun stays tucked behind the clouds, hesitating to show off the landscape in all its glory. With our appetites worked up and not all that many good photos to show for our early rise, we take the MR1 south again, past Malolotja, to the famous Ngwenya Glass Factory.

We have breakfast at the cafe and then tour the factory to see how the glass is crafted. Sweat trickles down my T-shirt as we walk cautiously between the 1 200 °C chambers. Our guide is Ben Taylor, a glass-blower from England with more than 22 years of experience. He explains how the process, which uses only recycled glass collected from across the country, works. ‘The clear glass is crushed before we place it into the chambers, where we mesh it with [already] melted glass. Any leftover glass is turned back into sand.’ The glass-blowing process is fascinating to watch as workers use special techniques to shape each glob of molten glass.

Only recycled glass is used at the Ngwenya Glass Factory. Image by Tyson Jopson.

After the tour, we head up the road to see one of the world’s oldest known mines. At the gate of the Ngwenya Iron Ore Mine and Lion Cavern, we meet our guide, Mpendulo Gumede. He tells us about the Lion Cavern and how it was used by the San, who extracted the soft haematite ore from the rocks 43 000 years ago. He also tells us about the large open-cast mine in front of us; it was prospected in 1957 and then mined by Anglo-American until 1979.

The ore was transported by railway to Mozambique and then shipped to Japan. Mpendulo also tells us how two other ancient mines were destroyed because of it. At Lion Cavern he takes some of the dark haematite off the cavern wall and applies it to my hand. A shiny purple-grey shimmer appears on my skin. Far below Lion Cavern is a sacred pool where locals come to collect rainwater. They believe it has spiritual powers and healing properties, due to a resident seven-headed snake.

The tale of a grieving maiden who cried after her Swazi warrior died, with her tears filling up the Phophonyane Falls; tackling a few giant rocks alongside Maguga Dam. Image by Tyson Jopson.

The following day it’s time to head home, and I’m reminded to look up a quote by Pico Iyer. He describes how we travel first to lose ourselves and then subsequently to find ourselves. ‘And we travel, in essence, to become young fools again – to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more.’ This trip has turned me into a young fool again. I’ve fallen in love with Swazi history and culture, and the vegetation reminds me of rural Eastern Cape. There’s simplicity in the way locals live and a sense of contentment with what they have. I may be as small as Swaziland is to the world, but this tiny country with a big heart reminds me of who I am: an African, yearning to know more about what the world has to offer.

Blesbok posing elegantly at Malolotja. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

How to see Swaziland in a weekend

Day 1: Pretoria to Phophonyane

Distance 403 kilometres Allow 7 hours
Take the N4 past Middelburg. 10 kilometres after the Alzu Petroport, turn right at the R33 sign for Carolina. Take the R38 (Genesis Route) out of Carolina. Stop for a break at the top of Nelshoogte Pass (1). At the T-junction turn right to stay on the R38 and stock up on supplies in Barberton (2). Take the R40 onto the beautiful Barberton Makhonjwa Geotrail which winds down to the Josefsdal/Bulembu border post (8am – 4 pm, R50 a car). The MR20 from here to Piggs Peak is gravel, in terrible condition but doable in a sedan if it’s dry. At Piggs Peak, take the MR1 north and look for signs to Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge (3).

From the top of the Gobolondo Mountain you can see amazing views all the way to Phophonyane Ecolodge. Image by Tyson Jopson.

Day 2: Phophonyane to Malolotja

Distance 54 kilometres Allow 4 hours
Walk to the falls (4) for sunrise (it’s worth it!). After brekkie, take a guided 4×4 trip to the foot of Gobolodo Mountain (5) and hike up. Take the dirt road out of Phophonyane and turn left onto the tar MR1. It’s less than 2 kilometres to Peak Fine Craft Centre (6). Double back on the MR1 and about 2 kilometres after Piggs Peak, turn left to Maguga Dam. Have lunch here (7). Continue south until you’re back on the MR1. From there it’s less than 7 kilometres to Malolotja (8).

The restaurant at Phophonyane Falls Ecolodge serves deliciously spicy Swazi chicken. Image by Tyson Jopson.

Day 3: Malolotja back to Pretoria

Distance 350 kilometres Allow 7 hours
Take the MR1 south and merge onto the MR3. Take turn-off No. 3 to Ngwenya Village, right under the highway, and then follow the road (it curves left and then runs parallel to the MR3) to the glass factory (9). After a bite and a scorching hot tour, drive about 3 kilometres up the same road to the entrance to Ngwenya Iron Ore Mine (10). Double back, take the first right that gets you back to the MR3, and make the short dash to Oshoek/Ngwenya border post (7am – 10pm). From there it’s about 100km back to Carolina on the N17 and R33, and another 200 kilometres back to Pretoria the same way you came.

Fabrics on display at Ngwenya Glass Factory. Image by Tyson Jopson.

1. Leopards in Mumbai

Leopards adapt efficiently in different surroundings, from the sub-zero conditions of Russia to the semi-arid Kgalagadi. Image by Pratik Jain

A leopard can’t change its spots, but it can certainly change its lifestyle. Leopards have lost about 85 percent of their range in Eurasia (and at least 66 percent in Africa) yet in highly concentrated Mumbai, they’re clinging onto their existence. These remarkably adaptable creatures reside in Sanjay Gandhi National Park, Mumbai’s largest protected forest. In 2015, 35 leopards were reported and despite growing numbers, they’ve earned the nickname ‘living ghosts’. As urban development erodes their natural habitat, Mumbai’s leopards have been known to wonder around residential areas, schools and slums.

Their ordinary diet of deer, wild boar and rodents has expanded to include unsuspecting stray dogs, cats, chickens, pigs and goats. Watch how leopards cruise around the city in this awesome thermal imagery video.

2. Wild boar in Berlin

Boars have also taken over Madrid with populations ranging between 30000 and 40000 in the city. Image by Robert Pernett

Perhaps ‘urban’ boar would suit them better because it’s where they’ve made their home. The reason? Berlin is Boar Capital thanks to roughly 440000 trees. This green European city is a magnet for wildlife. It’s a safe hideaway spot from predators and provides shelter and food. Despite being such city slickers the omnivorous wild boars aren’t really interested in what Berliners eat and still forage for their usual fare of acorns, beechnuts, maize and insect larvae.

Although they have strategies to avoid humans, serious clashes have involved attacks by adult wild boars, which has has led to culling operations. Relations between boar and humans have also been unfriendly because of the property damage they cause.

3. Penguins in Cape Town

A popular sightseeing spot, penguins dawdle up and down Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The African penguins of Betty’s Bay and Boulders Beach are world-famous, but they didn’t always live in these coastal towns. They were more accustomed to island life and bred off the South African and Namibian coasts. Predators such as leopards and caracals lurked on mainland South Africa so the penguins avoided such risky habitats. In the 1980s though, a penguin couple was spotted on Boulders Beach and, as we now know, they were later joined by many more.

The presence of the penguins is both smelt and heard thanks to their powerful stench and donkey-like braying, but their population numbers continue to drop. They compete with the fishing industries to satisfy their diet of sardines and anchovies, plus climate change inhibits their survival. Guano harvesting and egg collecting are also factors.

Also read: Your guide to Simon’s Town: a place to be happy

4. Peregrines in London

Powerful passengers of the air, the Peregrine falcon gets its name from the Latin word that means ‘pilgrim’. Image by Metropolitan Transportation Authority of New York

In London, real estate’s most prospective clients could be peregrine falcons. The world’s fastest bird aims higher than the church steeples of the countryside and prefers to soar among London’s highest skyscrapers. Like the leopards in Mumbai, Peregrine falcons have lost almost half of their natural territory. A century ago they were close to extinction, but now there are currently 30 breeding pairs and it seems they have adapted comfortably to urban life. Cranes, power station chimneys and high rises are just some of the places where they nest. There isn’t a lack of food either and they prey on pigeons and other migrating birds.

The city is a safer habitat for Peregrine falcons because they are exposed to shooting and poisoning in the rural areas of Britain. However egg collectors and illegal falconers still remain a threat.

5. Sika deer in Japan

Shika means ‘deer’ in Japanese. They’re the only deer species endemic to Japan. Image by W00kie

It’s not unusual to see deer roaming the streets of Nara, Japan. The sika (‘shika’ in Japanese) deer ambled over into Nara Park from their forest dwelling and are known to frequent homeowner’s gardens too. As well as being considered a national treasure, the sika deer also have roots in Japanese mythology. There are stalls around Nara Park selling ‘senbei’ or rice crackers that can be fed to the deer and some of the deer have been taught to bow as a way of asking to be fed. The sika deer population in Nara flourishes because of the extinction of their natural predator, the Japanese wolf, which is widely thought to have been shot out in 1905.

6. Mountain lions in Los Angeles

Earlier this year, a movie was released about P-22, another famous mountain lion. It’s called The Cat that Changed America. Image by National Park Service

The Santa Monica and Santa Susana mountains are home to what is commonly known as the mountain lion or cougar. These mountains surround the urban sprawl that is Los Angeles and while it’s the city of movie stars, mountains lions have created a fame of their own. One such lion has been dubbed the ‘King of Malibu’ (a.k.a P-45) and is notorious for the bloody trail he leaves in his wake. According to the National Park Service, he has killed llamas, sheep, alpacas and goats and appears to do so as a hobby rather than for food.

Although urbanisation destructs their habitat, these mountain lions have learned to adjust, even crossing highways to get into nearby parks. Males prefer to hunt in forested areas while females hunt closer to development. The moniker ‘ghost cats’ is an indication of their ability to dodge people. Unfortunately, these predators need vast areas of land to hunt and establish territories. Confined spaces also means they can’t spread genetic diversity through mating and this is necessary for population growth.

7. Vervet monkeys in SA’s cities

If there is nowhere to run and they’re in danger, Vervet monkeys will swim if necessary. Image by Derek Keats

It turns out that we have a lot in common with Vervet monkeys by way of alcohol consumption. However, this is only on the island of St. Kitt’s, where the monkeys are known to indulge and have even been classified as binge, or social drinkers. Many neighbourhoods in South Africa are familiar with them and they, much like their human counterparts, also suffer from anxiety disorders. Despite our shared struggles, humans and Vervet monkeys always seem to be at odds with one another.

Urban areas provide shelter, water and food to the Vervet monkeys, but these monkeys are seen as a nuisance. The city is also full of dangerous encounters for vervet monkeys such as dog attacks, vehicle collisions, poisoning and trapping.

8. Red foxes in British cities

Urban foxes are still predatory but they also enjoy food when it comes to them. There are even reports of foxes eating Marmite sandwiches and porridge. Image by Ciaran Frederick

Foxes have been a part of Britain’s city life since the 1930s and ‘urban fox’ is a popular term for them. One has been seen riding the escalator out of London’s tube and another atop London’s tallest building, the Shard. Unlike other animals that thrive in urban settings, the Red fox is perpetually in danger and lives a shorter life. Cars, diseases and dogs mean that they have a lifespan of 18 months instead of 6 to 10 years. These sharp-minded and agile foxes still know how to make the most of an urban environment though. They opt for suburban areas because of the gardens and although their diet still consists of birds, invertebrates and rodents, efforts to survive involve consuming foods such as pizza – it doesn’t get anymore urban than that.

9. Black bears in North America

Black bears aren’t exclusively black in colour, they can also have light brown, blonde and even grey-blue fur. Image by TAKA@P.P.R.S

Finding food in the city is a no-brainer for the highly intelligent Black bear as garbage dumpsters overflow with gourmet options. They’ve even become more nocturnal in their searches, unlike their relatives who are mostly active during the day. Some accuse them of laziness, but researchers say this isn’t the case. Living in the city has actually made Black bears more resourceful. The downside to more black bears leaving the wild though, is a loss of ecological processes. They play an important role in seed dispersal and in the decomposition of logs.

10. Chacma baboons in Cape Town

If there aren’t immediate sources of water, baboons can survive by licking night dew on their fur. Image by Dan Mitler

Chacma baboons could be the bane of your existence if you live near Tokai Forest or Table Mountain National Park. You probably also know that they will approach at the mere sight of a food morsel. The conflict between humans and Chacma baboons is intense and their omnivorous diet adjusts according to what is in the environment, meaning that they’ll eat just about anything. Alpha males lead their troops to food sources and these head honchos are usually the target of removals to reduce food-grabbing incidents.

Adult baboons also teach their young what is safe to eat and how to go about getting it. The Chacma baboon isn’t an endangered species, but interest groups emphasise that troops must be protected and monitored.

This article, Wild cities: 10 animals that have gone urban, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Nandi Majola.

I recently completed a swimming course so that I could enjoy the beach fully, beyond a walk on the shore. After learning to float and developing a pattern for arm strokes and feet paddling, the only thing to do was practice. A swim in the ocean was my final step to gaining full confidence in the water.

The September issue of Getaway Magazine features 11 of the best beach cottages in the country where you can enjoy fantastic sea swimming within walking distance.

Many routinely head out for a swim along the backline in Durban, armed with short fins as they swim amongst the surfers. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Tips for swimming in the sea

1. Make sure the weather conditions are good before you swim.

2. Do not swim alone, but always within sight of other people, ideally lifeguards.

3. Read the beach notice-boards for lifeguard schedules and other useful safety information, such as sections of the water considered unsafe.

4. It is better to get into the water quickly (run if you must) and start swimming immediately instead of slowly entering the water. Your recovery from loss of body heat will be quicker.

5. As you swim, locate the sun, mountains and other visible high points to gauge your distance from the shore. However, minimise the amount of time you look around by doing it quickly, within one stroke, and occasionally. You’ll also get a better perspective at the crest of a wave.

6. Straight-arm recovery after each stroke is more efficient when swimming in the sea than the bent-arm recovery often recommended for pools.

7. When you’re tired or panic starts to kick in, float on your back and look up. You’ll calm down and prepare mentally to get back into the groove.

Also read: 10 great swimming spots around Cape Town

Welcome Lishivha (right) playing in the Ocean in Mozambique with bonafide Wildman and National Geographic Presenter, Andy Coetzee (left). Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Learn to swim here

Cape Town
Simply Swimming, 0217979375,
simplyswimming.co.za

Durban
The Roberts Swimming Academy,
0312016484, find it on Facebook

Johannesburg
MySwim Swimming School,
0114629607, myswim.co.za

Port Elizabeth
Aquarius Swim School, 0835533565,
swimaquarius.co.za

Read more in the September Getaway issue.

Get this issue →

Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!

This article, 7 tips for novice sea swimmers, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Welcome Lishivha.

Self-drive travel through Botswana is a real adventure and planning a trip to our beautiful neighbour can be daunting. Our ultimate guide to Botswana is here to help. Whether you want to camp in the unfenced wilds, follow elephant herds across the Chobe or hitch a ride in a mokoro and explore the Okavango Delta, we’ve been there, done it and can help you get the t-shirt too. Plan your best-ever Botswana trip.

Ed’s note: some of these stories were published a year or two ago, so make sure to check the details before you hit the road!

Plan your ultimate trip to Botswana

1. See the best of Botswana in just 10 days

The main attraction of Savuti is the abundance of game and predators to be seen. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Do this 3000-kilometre trip and see the best of Botswana in 10 adventure-charged days. Churn up dust crossing the Makgadikgadi pans, dodge donkeys on the tar road in Maun, crosse rivers in Moremi, bump along deep mud-dried ruts next to the Savuti marsh and slip in sand on the tracks leading to Chobe.

Read the story: How to see the best of Botswana in 10 days

2. How to book campsites at Botswana’s national parks

Campsite number ten had the best view of the Chobe River at Ihaha. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

It can be tricky to book public campsites in Botswana’s national parks and reserves. Some campsites are run by private operators, some by the Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks (DWNP), and some parks have a combination of both so that a single visit requires some juggling between the two to get the bookings you want. If you’re planning a trip to any of Botswana’s national parks, this is what you need to know.

Read the story: How to book campsites in Botswana

3. A first-timer’s guide to the Kgalagadi

A Gemsbok stands majestically on a calcrete ridge at sunset in the Kgalagadi. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

The Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, straddling the border between South Africa and Botswana, is a semi-desert of red dunes and star-crammed skies where African animals run wild and visitors get a wilderness ‘fix’ that’s Prozac for the soul. Once Kalahari sand gets into your shoes, legend says, you’ll be drawn back again and again.

Read the story: Everything you need to know about travelling to the Kgalagadi

4. A first-timer’s guide to Maun

The view from Old Bridge Backpackers is quite impressive. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Maun is nobody’s final destination in Botswana, right? Yet the locals adore it. This is why it’s worth a longer visit.

Read the story: Everything you need to know about Maun

5. How to visit Vic Falls on a budget

The mighty Mosi oa Tunya at sunrise. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Yes, we know it’s not in Botswana, but Vic Falls is a short drive away from Kasane in the north and it’s worth a day trip to see this magical spectacle. Victoria Falls is arguably the biggest tourist attraction in Africa, which means that a visit always comes with a side of commercialism. We went looking for how to visit Victoria Falls on a budget – that is, avoiding the overseas prices – and discovered that it’s still possible to find a unique experience there.

Read the story: How to visit Vic Falls on a budget

Top 6 things do in Botswana

1. Skydive over the Makgadigadi Pans

Sunrise greets the three planes, who together ferried 428 jumpers. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

This area is famous for its flocks of flamingoes, which migrate during the rainy months in their tens (and sometimes hundreds) of thousands. Our photo editor, Teagan Cunniffe, got the chance to see this incredible expanse from the sky on a tandem jump with Graham Field of SkyDiversity, whose wake is littered with legendary antics.

Read the story: Makgadikgadi Epic: skydiving in Botswana

2. Go tiger fishing

This spot is in the heart of tiger territory and you can only get here by boat – an incredible Okavango Delta island. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Down the spine of the Okavango Panhandle there are some prime tiger fishing spots. Some say, to catch a ‘real’ tiger you’ve got to leave South Africa and head north, where river tigers are leaner and meaner than their dam-adapted cousins down here in South Africa.

Read the story: The most heavenly places to go tiger fishing

3. Do a photo safari on the river

Hippos lurk in the river. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

The best way to experience the wildlife of Chobe National Park is by boat, but some boats are better than others. Especially if those boats are equipped with lekker zoom lenses and a knowledgeable guide.

Read the story: 7 reasons why going on a Pangolin Photo Boat Safari is worth every cent

4. Fly over the Okavango Delta

The beautiful Okavango Delta as seen from the sky. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Did you know that the Okavango Delta is visible from space? Yep. This huge green mass is one of Africa’s greatest wilderness areas. Sightings of enormous herds of elephant, slow-grazing giraffe, leaping lechwe, crowds of kudu and hippo wallowing in muddy river pockets are yours for the taking when you book a flight over the delta.

In photographs: flying over the Okavango Delta

5. See hoards of elephants in the Chobe National Park

Elephants are a common sight in the Chobe National Park. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Throughout this region, wild animals roam freely. They wander to neighbouring Namibia and then up to Angola, Zambia and across to Zimbabwe. No fences. That’s the big charm about Botswana. Botswana has the highest elephant population in Africa – at times you’ll see more of them than you will impala.

Read the story: Walking with wise giants in the Zambezi Region

6. Listen to the roar of black-maned lion

Two brothers at Xade waterhole in Central Kalahari Game Reserve, Botswana. Photo by Ian White.

Dusk at Kaa Gate is prime time for lions, drawn to its waterhole for a pre-prowl drink. As night falls, the lions get active, roaring their presence to friend and foe alike. Kaa’s unfenced stands are usually used for late arrivals and pitching camp in the lion-filled blackness can be nerve-wracking.

Read the story: 12 desert thrills for adventure seekers

The 5 best self-drive 4X4 routes in Botswana

Download: The Ultimate Getaway BFGoodrich 4X4 Guide to Botswana

1. Kubu to Kukonje Island

Camping on Kukonje is free and there are no formal stands or any facilities. Photo by Chris Davies.

On the eastern rim of Botswana’s Sua Pan, Kukonje Island lies half forgotten at the end of a treacherous trail. 4X4 enthusiasts steer their wagons in hoards visiting much-loved Kubu Island, but just 40 kilometres west, undeveloped Kukonje – with its equally towering baobabs – is often overlooked. Why? That daunting trail might have something to do with it.

Read the story: Secret 4X4 routes in Botswana: Kubu to Kukonje Island

2. Baines Baobabs to the Ntwetwe Pan

Baines’ Baobabs – a clump of iconic trees with excellent campsites dotted across the salt pan in Nxai Pan National Park. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

An unusual route across the pans to see Botswana’s best baobabs. These remote trees sit on the fringe of the world’s largest network of salt pans and historically used as stopovers by traders, hunters and missionaries.

Read the story: An intriguing case of mowana mania

3. Maun to Khwai’s Magotho campsite

Along with great driving, there’s also a good chance of spotting antelope, elephants, hippos and even big cats at Khwai Development Trust. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Wedged between Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park is an 180000-hectare community concession known as the Khwai Development Trust. Most visitors to the two heavyweight parks on either side don’t know it’s there and those who do mainly use its transit road to get from one to the other. But here, hidden along the northern banks of the Khwai River, is a network of sandy 4X4 tracks not to be missed.

Read the story: Secret 4X4 routes in Botswana: Maun to Khwai’s Magotho campsite

4. Maun to Gcwihaba Caves

Inside the Gcwihaba Caves. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

In western Botswana, beneath the dry Kalahari landscape, is Gcwihaba Caves – an underground network of exceptional beauty and unusual assembly. From the floors of its gigantic chambers, stalagmites rise up between colossal flowstones, eerie frozen waterfalls and intricate time-forged formations. Exploring them is a challenge for the brave. The caverns are heavy with stale air, thousands of bats hang from the ceilings, and small spiders scurry between translucent webs on spongy gauno-filled floors. We found the best route to get there.

Read the story: Secret 4X4 routes in Botswana – Maun to Gcwihaba Caves

5. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park: Mabuasehube 4X4 trail

The campsite at Mosomane pan. Photo by Chris Davies.

The Botswanan side of Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park is quiet and easy going, with only the most common sense of rules and plenty of time to sit and think and take in the views. You could do a Johannesburg-to-Kgalagadi round trip in less than five days, but it wouldn’t be much fun. Spend any extra time you have on the Botswanan side and you’ll have the place practically to yourself. It’s light on facilities and you’ll be hundreds of miles from a flush loo. Luckily, that’s what a fully kitted 4X4 vehicle is made for.

Read the story: Botswana’s magical Mabuasehube 4X4 trail

Need to know

South Africans don’t need  a visa, but you’ll need your passport. If you’re driving, you need all vehicle papers and cash to pay for road tax at the border (about R220).

Vet fences. Botswana has vet control fences, including foot-and-mouth stations and travellers are required to disinfect shoes and car wheels before continuing. Vet fence checks can be anything from a smile and a wave to a full inspection. Fresh red meat and citrus are the major concerns and may be confiscated.

Stock up with enough firewood in cities like Maun as there is none for sale in the parks.

Do not drive at night as warthog, cattle, goats and elephants roam the roads. Go during winter as many roads in summer become inaccessible due to mud, and water crossings are too high to safely navigate.

Pula is the name of the currency in Botswana (it also means ‘rain’ in Tswana). Credit cards are widely accepted, but facilities are unreliable in remote areas. ATMs run out of cash so carry enough for emergencies. Rands are often accepted near the SA border but further north it’s pula or, on the Zim border, US dollars. P1 = R1,20.

This article, Getaway’s ultimate guide to travelling Bostwana, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Melanie van Zyl.

The Sundays River Valley, a booming citrus farming area, is close to Addo Elephant National Park which makes it a great getaway option if you want to take in some amazing wildlife experiences.

Famous for it’s elephants sometimes Addo Elephant Park gets booked up. These stays nearby are awesome alternatives. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

How it works:

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice. So how do we know if Number 1 really is the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and the UK Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Addo surrounds, she created a longlist of 32 to inspect.

What we found about accommodation in and around Addo

Extraordinary value. The focus is often on hospitality in the true sense of the word, with welcoming hosts sharing – at extremely generous prices – their good fortune to be living in this fertile, lush valley. PE, you are so lucky to have all of this on your doorstep!

There is a great deal of good stock (B&Bs, guest houses, self-catering) across a variety of price points. Whether you’re on a budget or like a bit of luxury, the choice is so good that I struggled to make my final cut.

Money is no indication of quality here. Something quite glorious is often half the price of a mediocre option just up the road. Finding these bargains made for a satisfying trip.

This area is difficult to research online. Typing in ‘Addo accommodation’ is not going to give you the full spread of options. In my opinion, all the best ones lie west of Addo Elephant National Park. Essentially, there are four main areas: Colchester, Addo, Sunland and Kirkwood. Of these, the best in terms of proximity to the gate are Addo and Sunland (though, just to confuse matters, quite a few properties located in Sunland are listed as Kirkwood).

Best budget option close to the park

1. Addo African Home

TripAdvisor No. 2 of 12 Speciality Lodgings

Charming Lolo Armand, who specialises in home-from-home properties (she has two in Cape Town), took transfer of this two-hectare estate in August 2016; four months later she had renovated and dressed the lodge in her inimitable style on a fairly restricted budget. It’s an interesting mix: on the one side is the Rest Camp (two large tents sleeping up to five people each; not en-suite but with private bathrooms) and the House, which has five en-suite bedrooms and a large open-plan communal kitchen and lounge-dining area that services all the self-catering guests. On the other side of the garden is the catered Lodge, with five dinky en-suite rondavels and the three bedroom main building. There is lots of shade, several private braai areas and a large communal firepit. Lolo also scores on ethics – she’s built an enormous plant-filtration swimming pool, and later this year opens an organic-food restaurant that she intends staffing with apprentices from a Khayelitsha community cooking school she supports.
Room tip: I thoroughly enjoyed staying in one of the rondavels (pictured). In the House, I liked Grysbok best because of its private garden entrance and little patio.
Cost: From R350 per tent for two. Rondavel from R400 per person sharing. House from R345 per person sharing self-catering. Lodge from R520 per person sharing B&B.
Distance from Addo Park: ‘Seven minutes exactly!’
Contact: addoafricanhome.co.za

Best luxury lodge

2. Elephant House and The Stables

TripAdvisor No. 7 of 22 B&Bs/Inns, No. 9 of 12 Speciality Lodgings

Elephant House feels like a grand old Lowveld lodge, a veritable maze of deep verandahs – artfully furnished by owner Ann Read with antiques, Persian rugs, comfortable armchairs in rich textured prints and pot plants – surrounding lush courtyards with tinkling fountains and two inviting pools. Only eight rooms, all tucked away and private, enjoying such a decadence of beautiful public spaces, is a real spoil. Dinner is a set menu – nothing fancy, the work of cooks rather than the haute cuisine at Woodall but very comforting; sitting in the romantically lit dining room, the smell of rain-soaked lawn wafting in, was a highlight of my research trip, as was the impromptu dance performance that preceded it. Across the road is The Stables – six free standing en-suite cottages, each with a furnished shaded veranda, and another pool adrift in a vast green lawn. Only caveat: there is a fairly busy road within earshot.
Room tip: Elephant House’s rooms are gorgeous but given the savings and privacy, I’d opt for a Stables cottage.
Cost: Stables Cottage from R725 per person sharing B&B. Elephant House from R1050 per person sharing B&B.
Distance from Addo Park: 10 minutes.
Contact: elephanthouse.co.za, stablecottages.co.za

Best B&B bargain

3. Halstead Farm

TripAdvisor No. 18 of 22 B&Bs/Inns

You feel most fortunate on entering the driveway that leads to the century-old family citrus farm now under the stewardship of Clyde Niven, great-grandson of Sir Percy Fitzpatrick, and his elegant wife Marijke, a magpie collector of antiques. Guests are housed in a separate low-slung cottage set in its own semi-private garden, overlooked by the deep, comfortably furnished veranda shared by three en-suite rooms. The fourth room, located behind the central pool courtyard, can comfortably sleep a family of four. The bathrooms are generous albeit slightly old-fashioned, each with a tub and separate shower; every room has its own fridge, table and chairs. Marijke is adept at creating romantic spaces with her eye for interesting antiques and vintage rugs; given the standard of the decor, Halstead is remarkably good value. The closest restaurants are five minutes away.
Room tip: All are lovely but I’d take either of the corner rooms. Better still, book all three with friends and enjoy the veranda exclusively.
Cost: From R400 per person sharing B&B.
Distance from Addo Park: 10 minutes.
Contact: halsteadfarm.com

Best for a large group

4. Aloe Tented Camp

Unlisted

This remote, rustic camp is within a mountainous game reserve that shares a five-kilometre border with Addo Park. It’s the perfect exclusive use bush escape for a couple of families or large group of good friends who love a camp atmosphere but prefer not to have to pitch tents or worry about the weather. There is an enormous kitchen-dining-bar lapa and indoor braai area with lots of seating to congregate in, or around the convivial firepit with lovely bush and mountain views – this is really the heart of the camp, under the stars. A short stroll from here is a pretty swimming pool with another braai and more tables. Sleeping arrangements are intimate: three large dorm-style tents with single beds sleeping a total of 20, and a small thatched chalet sleeping five in a bunk, single and double bed. All have wooden decks, the ablutions are in good nick and the outdoor shower is a treat. Bedding and towels are supplied; limited solar power (don’t take a hair dryer) and – hurrah! – no cell-phone reception. Firewood is available for purchase.
Room tip: The stone and thatch chalet has the only double bed.
Cost: R250 per person, ages six to 13 R125, under 5s free; R1500 minimum charge for the camp.
Distance from Addo Park: One hour.
Contact: intabalodge.com

Best value romantic break away

5. Umlambo River Cottages

TripAdvisor No. 1 of 2 Speciality Lodgings

Angela Taylor built her four self-catering cottages on the fifth-generation Davis farm with privacy and exclusivity in mind, locating each on a slight rise above the banks of the Sundays River, and planting wide, lush flowerbeds on either side of groomed lawns. This means each cottage effectively has its own private garden, and you enjoy an unobstructed view of the reed-fringed river from your private veranda. Each cottage also has its own kayak and floating jetty-deck, three of which are furnished. The cottages comprise a large room with a king-size bed and armchairs centred on the large picture windows, plus a separate bathroom, kitchenette and braai area. Given all this, the other word that leaps to mind is bargain – you’re getting so much for such an agreeable price, you’ll want to pinch yourself.
Room tip: I’d pick Pygmy or Malachite for their privacy and decks. Brownhooded and Pied make a great family unit when booked together (twin beds available).
Cost: From R300 per person sharing self-catering (R100 extra B&B).
Distance from Addo Park: 30 minutes.
Contact: umlambo.com

Best for garden lovers & foodies

6. Woodall Country House

TripAdvisor No. 1 of 12 Speciality Lodgings

There are countless beautiful gardens in the Sundays River Valley but Woodall totally takes the prize. Owner Debbie Miller is a qualified horticulturist but has put together textures and colours at her guest house like a consummate artist. Equally delightful is the elevated, thatched lounge-deck overlooking a lake – I spotted 11 bird species in a single glance! – where the complimentary sundowner canapés are served. This is also where guests dine: according to reviews, a truly stellar haute cuisine experience (R425 pp), and her husband James’ wine collection has earned multiple Diners Club Platinum and Diamond awards over the past decade. The spa similarly enjoys a solid reputation, as does in-house game ranger Ruan de Jager. The 11 rooms, each with their own entrance and patio, are all large and luxurious. In winter Woodall represents excellent value.
Room tip: I much preferred the Luxury Rooms (which are spacious, well-proportioned) to the Suites (which are cavernous, and cost R400 to R650 more). Room 5 has the most private patio.
Cost: From R945 per person sharing including breakfast.
Distance from Addo Park: 10 minutes; half-day guided game drives cost R1000 per person.
Contact: woodall-addo.co.za

Best for families

7. Avoca River Cabins

TripAdvisor No. 2 of 12 Speciality Lodgings

Dave and Judy Smith are super-industrious farmers who have built a veritable village of self-catering cottages and cabins on the edge of the Sundays River and terraced into the ridge above, most featuring marvellous views of the lushly treed riverbanks and fertile orchards that lie beyond. It’s a big operation – if every bed is taken, Avoca can sleep 82 – and understandably popular. Some of the kitchens are looking tired (although they are being redone), but the cabins and cottages are clean and comfortable, and the price is unbeatable. Aside from the wonderful location and views, facilities are good: a jetty with kayaks, two swimming pools, kiddies play area and a dining room serving breakfast (and dinner on request) if you don’t feel like self-catering all the time. And if you’re on a tight budget, the two rondavels with hot shower and toilet (but no self-catering or braai) are a great option.
Room tip: Families should book one of the four freestanding Riverside Chalets, each with their own mini lapa – a large firepit surrounded by seating. The best option for couples is the privately located Gymnogene chalet. Bushcamp, with two log cabins, is a good rustic option for a group of six to eight people.
Cost: Riverside Chalets cost R700 (five-sleeper) and R850 (six-sleeper). Gymnogene R700 for two. Bushcamp R750 per cabin (sleep four each). Mud Huts R350 (sleep two each).
Distance from Addo Park: 20 minutes.
Contact: avocarivercabins.co.za

Best all-around destination

8. Camp Figtree

TripAdvisor No. 3 of 12 Speciality Lodgings

Creeping up the winding forested pass into the Zuurberg mountains was exhilarating enough; once peaked, I never wanted to leave. Deciding how to crown it was the next challenging task. Most fabulous view? Best for romance? Most peaceful? Best-value luxury? In a room cantilevered high above the forested valley, I watched the early morning mists drift below before rising suddenly, cocooning the camp in clouds; 30 minutes later it had all but burnt away, revealing an enormity of blue in which an eagle soared. Utter bliss. Created by Marijke and Clyde Niven (see Halstead Farm, page 39), this has their trademark class-act decor style, with a central veranda that is too inviting – furnished with antiques, horns, books, Persian rugs and comfortable armchairs. The new owners, since 2016, have installed solar power throughout and added three en-suite luxury tents.
Room tip: The two boardwalk suites offer the same gobsmacking views as the luxury suites for slightly less. The three-room suite with its own pool is a great family choice (sleeps six, children below 12 are half price).
Cost: From R1250 per person sharing B&B (tents R1000 pp more). Dinner R300 per person.
Distance from Addo Park: 20 minutes; a half-day guided trip in an open-sided vehicle is R1050 per person.
Contact: campfigree.com

Worth A Look

9. Happy Lands

I wish there was more space to feature this B&B visually. Nita Tayler-Smith is the epitome of hospitality, each with its own patio and entrance from the pretty garden. An absolute bargain.
Cost: From R350 to R450 per person (breakfast included) for well-equipped cottages.
Contact: happylands.co.za

10. Addo Dung Beetle

My favourite at this popular guest farm were the three rustic Bush Cabins. Here, you can pretend you’re in the middle of nowhere, or join the lodge guests for meals and cool off in the pool.
Cost: R350 per person sharing.
Contact: addodungbeetle.co.za

11. Broadlands

A farmhouse in Kirkwood amid gorgeous gardens, and a serious contender for best B&B. Of the five en-suite rooms, Lily Cottage, set slightly apart, is the most private and worth paying a little extra.
Cost: From R600 per person sharing B&B.
Contact: broadlandsch.co.za

12. Rosedale B&B

Low-key, ethical, authentic organic farm with pleasant staff and a very restful atmosphere. The two new rooms (7 or 8) cost the same but are larger and better furnished.
From: R460 per person sharing.
Contact: rosedalebnb.co.za

13. Chrislin African Lodge

Another sprawling property in Addo with a variety of mostly thatched adobe-style cottages dotted throughout the garden.
Cost: From R610 per person sharing B&B.
Contact: chrislin.co.za

14. Hitgeheim

Gorgeous views from attractive thatched chalets with decks, this eco-reserve guest house has loads of facilities (including two pools and a wine cellar) and is very professionally run, but is relatively pricey given what else is available around here.
Cost: From R1246 per person sharing B&B.
Contact: hitgeheim.com

Three things to do close to Addo

1. A cruise on the Sundays River, which departs from Colchester, spotting birds and small wildlife, even otters and leguaans. Sandboarding or sledding down some of the highest dunes in SA is often included. Choose from a double-decker ferry or a houseboat. addocruises.co.za, sundaysriveradventures.com
2. The fastest, highest and longest double zipline in Africa at Adrenalin Addo. 0789111619
3. Local produce and R30 breakfasts at the Addo Market on the first Saturday of the month. Plus Karoo Craft Meat for biltong and braai supplies. 0846563006

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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This article, 14 fantastic stays around Addo Elephant Park, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Pippa de Bruyn.

Kids may not have the right idea when it comes to naps and Santa Claus, but they’re 100% correct about the glory of a good treehouse. We went looking for glorious treehouses around South Africa, and here’s what we found: so pack some playing cards, make a password, and take a break from the world of grown-ups.

All prices were correct at time of publication, but are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before travelling.

1. Bushwa Private Game Lodge, Waterberg

You can’t beat the settings at Bushwa. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Shake up your next wildlife escape and stay in an amazing tree house overlooking a waterhole in the Waterberg. Accommodation in the trees at Bushwa. It’s rustic from the outside but offers luxe comfort within. It’s also isolated and peaceful set away from the main lodge buildings. Enjoy long lazy days with a good book or picnic basket, while you relax and enjoy the diverse birds of the Waterberg area including the Fish eagle. An outdoor shower with views of the river is a proper cherry on top for the whole experience.

Guests will be collected for morning and afternoon/evening game drives making it an unfortgettable safari experience. Meals will be enjoyed at the Safari Lodge. Transfers to and from the Safari Lodge are included in the rate.

Rates: From R1500 per person sharing including all meals and game drives.

Contact: bushwa.co.za

Also read: An insider’s guide to the Waterberg

2. Sycamore Avenue

Location: Midlands KwaZulu-Natal

Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

These whimsical tree houses are cleverly designed with wooden contraptions that open doors, and stairways that lead into cosy sleeping and living areas set high above the ground, with squirrels and birds for company. Light a fire (yes, in a wooden structure built on a tree) to fill your tree house with flickering light, before relaxing in a spa bath (good for two) or on the balcony with a glass of wine. Dinner and breakfast ‒ included in the price of your stay ‒ are served in the dining room, with its extensive views of Giant’s Castle. The six unique tree houses (and two cottages) all have different characters and outlooks. For couples, stay in the tree houses Pegasus or Romantic ‒ the latter delivers on its name and has a hammock on its deck. Fantasy and Planequarium are better suited to families.

Rates: Tree houses from R845 per person.
Contact: Tel 0332635009, treehouse-acc.co.za

3. Harkerville Treetop Chalet

Location: Knysna, Garden Route

Photos by Dale Morris.

Built on a platform overlooking the forest, this is a fully equipped, self-catering log cabin that sleeps four. A spacious deck and braai complements a romantic outdoor Jacuzzi and the private location deep in the SANParks reserve makes for a wonderful escape into nature. Stay here if you want the freedom to wander the paths whenever it suits you.

Rates: From R1460 a person a night for two people; R300 a person and R150 a child thereafter.
Contact: Reservations through SANParks Regional Office, Knysna. Tel 0443025606, sanparks.org

4. Speekhout

Location: Baviaanskloof, Eastern Cape

Photo by Michelle Hardie.

Be swept into a magical world reminiscent of Enid Blyton’s The Faraway Tree at Speekhout’s tree house, a work of art sculpted into the arms of a large Karee tree. A double bed and two singles make up the sleeping quarters, with an extra bed for two in the living area, which has a fireplace. You’ll feel connected to nature with tree-patterned sheets, leaves painted on the canvas ceiling, a retractable roof for stargazing, a hot outdoor shower and loo suspended in the tree canopy, no reception (only WhatsApp at the main house), four easy walks and natural swimming pools. Stock up on the basics in Willowmore (56 kilometres away) and visit Sophie’s Choice, a sumptuous vintage shop and restaurant.

Rates: From R320 per person sharing, kids R180.
Contact: WhatsApp 0799741365, speekhout.co.za

5. Vindoux Treehouse Guest Farm & Spa

Location: Tulbagh, Western Cape

Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Three tree houses at Vindoux, a family-run fruit and wine farm, look out onto its game camp, home to black wildebeest, Cape mountain zebra and springbok. The fourth, as well as Tree Lodge, overlook plum orchards. If you choose, breakfast is served on your balcony against the dramatic backdrop of the Saronsberg Mountains. All the tree houses have access to braai facilities and sleep two people, while the self-catering Tree Lodge, which sleeps eight, is more suited to families and has a pool. The Honeymoon Suite is a short distance away along a shaded forest path. Fynbos therapy oils created on site and used in the spa come highly recommended.

Rates: From R2050 per couple B&B.
Contact: Tel 0232300635, vindoux.com

6. Kameeldoorn Tree House

Location: Mokala National Park

Photo by Scott Ramsay.

There is only one treehouse in all of South Africa’s diverse national parks. In the middle of Mokala, off the beaten track and far from the two main camps, lies a small wooden cabin with a double bed and tiny bathroom, perched halfway up a copse of camelthorn trees. Don’t get a fright if a giraffe pokes its nose into the window while you’re snoozing. It’s basic and modestly equipped, but at sunset a waterhole in front of the treehouse lures thirsty gemsbok, buffalo, kudu and the occasional rhino. At night, it’s just you, your partner, the stars, the flicker of flames and the howl of hyenas.

Rates: Self-catering from R550 per person sharing a night.
Contact: Tel 0532040158, sanparks.org

7. Teniqua Treetops

Location: Sedgefield, Garden Route

Photos by Teagan Cunniffe.

There is a special energy in these ancient Afromontane forests and these Teniqua ‘tree house tents’, suspended above the textured canopy, offer the best opportunity to commune with it. Just eight tree houses share 38 hectares of dense indigenous forest, each erected on a platform in locales selected for their views and privacy. Built organically around the existing trees, the tree houses feel like part of the forest – taking a bath on the deck under the stars and waking to the sounds of the forest is very special. Every tent has an indoor and outdoor seating area, the latter on a private deck (with views and a Weber); a tented bedroom (or two); a well-equipped kitchen, and a bathroom that makes the most of the views.

Tree house tents that are highest in the canopy have composting toilets, which may not suit everyone, so do check this when booking. I loved Loerie’s Nest, a honeymoon tree house, with an al fresco bathroom on the deck, and a flushing loo. There are four family tents; two are two-bedroomed while the other two have a bunk bed in the bedroom (suitable for youngsters who find the forest sounds challenging). Greenbeard is disabled-friendly.

Rates: From R1200 for a honeymoon tree house. R1450 for one-bedroomed tree houses (sleeps four). R1780 for two bedrooms (sleeps four).
Contact: teniquatreetops.co.za
Also read: Guide to accommodation in Sedgefield

8. Kurisa Moya, Magoebaskloof

Kurisa Moya treehouse cabin. Photos by Teagan Cunniffe.

Kurisa Moya featured in our best accommodation in Magoebaskloof article: its location, ancient afromontane forest, prolific birdlife and authentic eco-credentials are very special. The cabins are remote – sans reception or electricity – and are perfect to soak up the serenity. Visitors can go for long rambles (with or without the award-winning resident birder David) or go fishing or cycling. The kitchens are well equipped, but for real luxury, order at least one delicious home-cooked meal (prepared by resident chef Grace), which is delivered hot to your table.

Rates: Forest lodge cabins (sleep two to four) from R800 per person.
Contact: krm.co.za

Also read: Try this epic new slackpacking route in Limpopo

9. Marc’s Treehouse Lodge

Location: Hoedspruit, Limpopo

Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Rustic but comfortable, all 12 tree houses at this riverine bushveld camp near Hoedspruit have stirring views over the Klaserie River and are generously spaced. Treehouse 2 is best, set in Jackalberry branches with a large curtain-less window so sunrise wakes you gently and Treehouse 5, with its sobriety-testing 17-step ladder, is the highest, most tree-house-like home here (the other nine are built on stilts within the tree canopy). Expect nyala grazing close by and eerie cries from thick-tailed bushbabies and hyenas complementing the sounds of water trickling below. A simple DBB option is available ‒ the food is a bit generic (catering is for big groups), but there’s great camaraderie around the fire in the evenings.

Rates: From R980 per person sharing.
Contact: Tel 0718425547, marcscamp.co.za

10. nThambo Tree Camp, Klaserie Private Nature Reserve

nThambo Tree Camp has unique, stilted wooden chalets that are individually placed alongside the lodge at eye-level with the trees.

You’ll feel particularly close to the bush in the airy structures of nThambo Tree Camp, set on a small open pan in Klaserie towards the north of the Greater Kruger area. Raised off the ground, five similarly rustic en-suite units feel like well-furnished tree houses, although not actually supported by trees. Sturdy vertical poles elevate them and from their main structural support, connected by low latte railings and sections of safari-green canvas. A thick tawny blanket at the end of a wrinkle-free white duvet is appropriate protection from the free-flowing evening breeze. A wooden coat stand with two little drawers is authentic in its colonial-era safari aesthetic, complemented by a small writing desk and tall dark wardrobe.

The lodge is relaxed and revolves around the central, open-plan living, swimming and dining area, shaded by a lofty thatch roof and retractable canvas walls. Thick-weave khaki carpets soften the deck beneath white-cushioned wicker couches, while canvas director’s chairs line a long dining table.

Rates: Full board (including game drives and bush walks) R3095 per person per night

Contact: nthambo.com

This article, Dreamy treehouses for a faraway break, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Getaway.

In celebration of Heritage Day on 24 September, we at Trappers, the essential outdoor gear specialist, look forward to saluting the culture, beliefs and traditions of our diverse nation. And, in the spirit of this, we are giving away a Trappers hamper consisting of an enviable selection of locally manufactured quality brands.

Trappers is driven by a caring, and optimistic set of values. As a proudly South African company, we unashamedly support local suppliers and locally-made goods wherever possible. Our ‘We Love Local’ initiative underpins this philosophy.

If you are headed for the outdoors, Trappers is the place to start for all of your equipment and apparel needs. For the past 40 years, we have passionately assisted customers with expert product knowledge, understanding and advice they can trust to ensure that they get exactly what they need. No matter what your outdoor passion is you’ll find a kindred spirit in Trappers. It’s one of the reasons we’ve become the go-to destination for all outdoor adventure equipment.

At Trappers, we stock a wide range of products under a variety of quality brands, for any outdoor enthusiast or adventure seeker across any budget, with the likes of Leatherman, Jeep Clothing, First Ascent, Salomon, Hi-Tec, and Garmin across our 32 stores in eight provinces.

Go to www.trappers.co.za to find your local store. Alternatively, call head office on 0114622919 or email info@trappers.co.za.

This article, ‘We Love Local’ Heritage Day Competition, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Trappers.

This easy overnight route from Cape Town combines the calm atmosphere of one of the Cape’s lesser-known wine regions with some gravel travel and even a little 4X4 action. I drove it in the All-New Land Rover Discovery.

land rover, tierkloof 4x4, breede valley

The highlight of this route (for offroad enthusiasts at least) has got to be the 12km Tierkloof 4×4 Trail.

New is fun, right? With two days to test drive the All-New Land Rover Discovery, I plotted a route from Cape Town into a part of the Breede River Valley that was new to me: a small patch of wine country just east of Worcester. You know, the bit you whoosh past on your way to Robertson, Swellendam, Montagu or Route 62. Turns out there’s more there than first meets the eye. It was also the perfect place to put the new Land Rover Discovery 3,0 TDV6 HSE Luxury through its paces.

Here is a map of the route, a link to it (and directions on Google Maps) and seven highlights you’ll find along the way:

This overnight trip from Cape Town will get you two mountain passes, a 4×4 trail, and a feast of other Breede River Valley treats.

1. Du Toitskloof Pass

Irony is when you skip the Huguenot Tunnel to take in the views from Du Toitskloof Pass, but it’s so misty and rainy that the only good photo you get is of the small tunnel at the end of the pass.

Skip the Huguenot Tunnel and take the R101 (Sonstraal Street) onto this old route over the Hawequa Mountains. We drove it on a rainy and very misty afternoon so there were views to speak of, but the inclement weather did give me chance to get comfortable with the new Discovery’s road manners. The first impression (in case you haven’t noticed) is that the aesthetics have changed rather drastically. It looks more like a Range Rover than the previous Discovery. It’s sleek, stocky and steadfast, and on the road its lower centre of gravity and air suspension makes it feel more like a sports car than an offroad vehicle. It’s also superbly quiet.

2. Aan de Doorns Guesthouse

You’ll find classic winelands hospitality at Aan de Doorns Guesthouse, just outside Worcester.

We arrived at Aan de Doorns Guesthouse in the late afternoon. Not too far from Worcester, this country house is charming, with classic decor, high ceilings and more-than-helpful hosts. I loved the old steel-frame bed – they don’t make them like that anymore. The dogs are friendly (you’ll find the largest great dane this side of the Langeberg there) and the mood is peaceful. From R497,50 per person sharing.

Eat here: Dinner is available at Aan de Doorns on request. Alternatively, try Fowlers Grill in town. The steak menu is impressive, the cuts are delicious and the setting mixes the best parts of casual eatery (there’s a pizza oven outside) with an air of fine dining. 300g fillet steak from R179. 0233478761

3. Langeberg Amble

This fantastic gravel route runs along the foot of the Langeberg past the Rooiberg Conservancy.

The following morning we got an early start and pointed the Landy’s grill in the direction of the Langeberg in search of good gravel roads and any treasures they might proffer up along the way. We didn’t need to look far. Just over the R60, we found the gravel Overhex Road, which winds its way along fynbos-garnished foothills. This, for me, was where the Disco stole the show. I’ve not driven all that many SUVs in its price bracket class (R1 314 000 for the HSE Luxury) it’s also by far the most expensive vehicle I’ve test driven), but it’s the best gravel-roader I’ve had the pleasure of commandeering. It felt superbly planted, dealt with ruts like they weren’t there and the claimed 480kg reduction in weight from its predecessor makes it significantly more nimble.

4. Rooiberg Winery

Stop here for breakfast after a slow amble along the foothills of the Langeberg.

At the end of this loop, back on the R60, we stopped at Bodega de Vinho at Rooiberg Winery for breakfast. It’s a favourite spot of mine because the folk are friendly and there’s more to the whole place than just wine tasting and sales. Sit outside if it’s a sunny morning or enjoy the warm bistro feel indoors. If you’re a mountain biker this is also where you can get your permit to ride in the Rooiberg Conservancy (R40 per person). Trails start at Saggy Stone Brewery, which you will have passed on the Overhex Road to get here. Breakfast from R40.

5. Olyfberg

Taste olives and tapenade at Olyfberg

We headed back towards Worcester on the R60, but didn’t stay on it for very long, taking the very next gravel road left (turn at the sign that reads ‘Eilandia’) and cruised past some very Karoo-like scenery to Olyfberg to check out their wares. It’s an unassuming spot with a sparse but neat reception where you can do a free olive tasting, buy olive products and fresh-pressed extra virgin oil. At R120 for a litre (if you buy the PET refill bottles), for a product that you know is the real deal (not like some of that foreign ‘extra virgin’ hocus pocus) it’s a bargain.

6. Tierkloof 4×4 Trail

The 4×4 trail at Tierkloof is not exactly a walk in the park. Go in a group and make sure there’s always someone spotting.

We cruised a few more gravel roads (they really were that fun to drive in the Land Rover), crossed the Breede (see map) and then wound our way around Brandvlei Dam to Tierkloof 4X4 Trail for the ultimate test: how does the new Landy handle its marque’s flagship environment? Very, very, well, it turns out. But there is a caveat (which you can read in the overall impressions below). The trail is only 12km, but starts with a very steep rocky ascent with some fairly large step ups. It’s a little nerve-wracking without support, but it was a good way to test its All-Terrain Progress Control (ATPC) system.

Essentially ATPC is cruise control for steep terrain. All you do is select a speed between 1,8km/h and 30km/h, and the Discovery’s electronics applies the correct acceleration (and braking where necessary), leaving you with to focus on picking the right line and steering. It’s an electronics / engineering marvel but if you’re the classic rough-and-tumble offroader, you’ll find it a little, umm, unsatisfying. We didn’t complete the trail (again, see the overall impressions below) but chatted to the owner at length about it. Things get a lot easier after the initial uphill, there’s a short sandy section and even a water crossing or two. There are also superb views of the Breede Valley at the top. From R150 per vehicle.

7. Bainskloof Pass

Parked on the side of the magnificent (though a little bumpy) Bainskloof Pass.

From Tierkloof we crossed the N1, drove through the Slanghoek Valley, over the Breede River and headed towards Wellington on one of my favourite mountain passes in the country: Bainskloof Pass. It’s narrow, a little bumpy and magnificently long (about 26km) and was a delight to drive. The Discovery impressed even more with its road manners over some of the bumpy sections. You can stop for lunch at the Calabash Bush Pub and Lapa or have a picnic at Tweede Tol, a CapeNature campsite and facility in the Limietberg. It has beautiful lawns and rock pools. Meals at Calabash from R60 per person and conservation fees at Tweede Tol are R40 per person.

From Wellington, it took us about an hour and a half (at most) to get back to Cape Town, another part of the country explored (though there’s a lot more in the Breede River Valley still to see) in a ride that I could feel myself starting to get really comfortable in.

Land Rover Discovery 3,0 TDV6 HSE Luxury overall impressions

Eating up some gravel in the all-new Land Rover Discovery.

Overall this is a magnificently smart vehicle. It’s intelligent systems (Park Assist, Blind Spot Monitor, Lane Change Assist and countless others) make being on the road feel safer, more comfortable, and its size (it is very large) easier to manage. The build-quality is solid, interiors well-finished and appointed with the kind of luxury feel you’d expect from a top-marque like the Discovery.

I loved how the navigation software integrated with the dash so aside from the map display you also get directions between the dials.

The only thing that may disappoint hardcore Landy lovers (of which I am one) is that it feels a little too refined to tackle the really tough stuff. The capability is certainly there. I don’t doubt the claim that it is the most capable of the Discoverys yet (it truly impressed me on the 4X4 course) but I was constantly worried that I was going to damage the bodywork or dent the rims beneath those low-profile tyres. It was the reason I didn’t tackle the full course at Tierkloof, I made an about turn when I got to one or two placed where the foliage started looking overgrown and branches started creeping out from the tracksides.

For me, Land Rovers always look happiest when they’re dirty. This was after a rough day on gravel and the Tierkloof 4X4 course.

As an ultra-comfortable, intelligent, SUV that can do a bit of a 4X4ing but will largely be used on the road and gravel, I think it hits its mark.

Cruising the Breede River Valley’s tar roads.

This article, A Breede River Valley road trip with a twist, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Tyson Jopson.

With budgets as tight as ever, we figured you could use a guide to the best free things to do in Cape Town – explore the spectacular outdoors, soak up some art and even find free beer.

Also read: 21 different things to do in Cape Town

1. Take a hike

Overlooking Camp’s Bay for sunset from the peak of Lions Head. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

It’s one of the most refreshing ways to encounter the natural environment and, let’s be real, snap some awesome Instagram pictures. Swap leg day at the gym for a hike or make it a part of your regular fitness regime. We highly recommend one of these free options: a do it yourself multi-day hike on Table Mountain or this weekend Cape Town city climb up Devil’s Peak

Otherwise, why not try the 3 Peaks Fun Challenge? The fourth edition takes place on 8, 9 and 10 September 2017 and you hike Lion’s Head, Devil’s Peak and Table Mountain on each day. The emphasis is on having fun and there’s great accomplishment in conquering each peak three days in a row. Register for the 3 Peaks Fun Challenge online or call 0713701246.

2. Tour the city

The beautiful colours of the Bo Kaap district. Photo by Melanie van Zyl,

Cape Town Free Walking Tours offers four different tours across the city and each one takes just 90 minutes. It’s a great way to rediscover Cape Town if you’re a local and touring by foot gives you a closer look at the place you call home. The history of the different areas is fascinating and you might even discover something new. Although it’s free, tipping the tour guide is expected so do bring a little cash. The first tour starts at 11:00 and at Green Market Square.

Also read: 3 days trips from Cape Town under R500

3. Visit this emerald urban gem

Ducks enjoy the waters below Cape Town’s iconic mountain. Photo by Terae De Cou

Getaway contributor, Rachel Robinson calls Green Point Park an ‘urban gem’ and by the time you’re finished reading about her experience, you’ll want to make it your happy place too. Read how to discover Green Point Park. For an extra R35, you can arrange to go on a guided tour of the park – arrange this with the Cape Town Stadium. Tel 0214170120.

4. Set sail

Blue waters from a boat while sailing in Cape Town. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

On a Wednesday night, you can feel like ‘life is but a dream’ at the Royal Cape Yacht Club. This family-friendly activity allows all ages and although sailing experience determines your place on the boat, you’re still welcome aboard if you don’t have any. It’s free, but you must reserve seats in advance. The time is 16:00 for 17:00 until 19:00. Call 0214211354 or email membership@rcyc.co.za. If you love the ocean, find free places to spend summer in a swimsuit – we recommend these 10 great swimming spots in Cape Town.

5. Discover diamonds

Image by Diamond Works

Don’t let your savings account stop you from diving into the world of diamonds. It might be a random addition to the list, but the Sparkling Tour is free and educational with demonstrations on diamond cutting and a lesson on the history of SA’s diamond and gold trade. There’s also a complimentary glass of wine in the package…

6. See the stars

The Gamkeberg starscape. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

Learn about the mysterious night sky on the second or fourth Saturday of every month when the South African Astronomical Observatory (SAAO) in Observatory opens their doors to the public. Starting at 20:00 visitors sit down for a 45-minute presentation and an introduction to the notable McClean telescope. Weather permitting, there’s also a chance to observe the sky through the McClean and other telescopes.

Also find free Astronomy Outreach from now until 23 December 2017. Telescopes provided by the Cape Centre of the Astronomical Society of Southern Africa mean you can take a closer look at the sun, moon and other interstellar objects at the V&A Waterfront Pierhead. Available from 15:00 to 21:30. Tel 0823354851 or 0828981057.

Tip: If you’re planning a weekend camping escape to the Cederberg, be sure to include a visit to the Cederberg Observatory. Open every Saturday (except around full moon), the privately run observatory in the Cederberg Mountains opens to the public for a presentation and telescope viewings. Free entry, but do make a donation.

Also read: Where to go stargazing in South Africa

7. Go wine tasting

Is the sound of clinking glasses music to your ears? Are you well on your way to becoming a wine connoisseur? If your answer is ‘yes!’, then you’re in the right city. Wine Concepts in Newlands Village and Kloof Street offer free daily tastings tastings from participating wineries. The tastings are weekdays from 16:00 to 19:00 and 11:00 to 15:00 on Saturdays.

Also read: 20 things to do in the Winelands for under R100

8. Start the weekend with #FreeBeerFriday

Get an early start to your weekend at Beerhouse in Long Street. A secret passphrase gets you a free beer between 16:00 and 17:00 on Friday. All you need to do is keep an eye on their Facebook or Twitter pages for the passphrase and repeat it at the door.

Also read: Winter restaurant specials in Cape Town

9. Cycle at full moon

Bikes in San Francisco. Image by Asher Isbrucker

Once a month, bicycle spokes glimmer in the moonlight as cyclists and bike-lovers ride casually through the streets. You can be a part of the Critical Mass event for free while making a statement about the benefits of using environmentally friendly transportation. It’s also a great way to have fun while admiring Cape Town’s beauty at dusk. The starting point is Green Point Circle and the cycle event is from 20:00 to 23:00. Here are the night cycle dates for the rest of 2017: 6 September, 5 October, 4 November and 3 December.

10. Take back the streets

Image by Alex Kaczmarek

On 1 October 2017, five kilometres of Main Road will be closed to cars as people come together in the spirit of community. Open Streets is an initiative encouraging pedestrians, wheelchair-users, skateboarders and cyclists to reclaim the streets as a public space. It will be happening for the first time on Main Road and along sections of Darling Street, Sir Lowry and Victoria Road. There will also be activities such as street performances, games, sports and street art. From 09:00 to 17:00. Tel 0212860823.

11. Get arty in the evening

Street art in Observatory. Image by Geraldine Schelin

There’s an air of creativity as you walk along Lower Main Road in Observatory and you can experience it best in an evening devoted to celebrating artistic expression. ART Thursdays shines the light on galleries, musicians, artists, establishments and entrepreneurs in Observatory every second Thursday of the month from 18:00 to 22:00.

12. Soak up some serious culture

For the last five years, Cape Town’s edition of First Thursdays has been a popular choice for mid-week recreation. You don’t have to wait until the weekend to get to an art gallery because on the first Thursday of each month they’re open until the late. This means you can catch some of the latest exhibitions and attend other cultural events and performances. It’s a creative way to explore the city and you can download a self-guided map to get around. There might even be freebies along the way. First Thursdays mainly happens along Bree and Church Street between 17:00 and 21:00. The next one is on 7 September 2017.

If we’ve missed anything out, do let us know in the comments!

This article, 12 free things to do in Cape Town, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Nandi Majola.

One chicken, roasted on arrival at your favourite weekend getaway, can transform into three meals. Here’s how:

The Roast

A one-pan self-basting meal, where roasting juices flavour the veggies.
Feeds 4

Even when this roast chicken’s polished off, it’s flavours will find their way into other meals. Image by Brandon De Kock.

Ingredients

• 1,8 – 2kg chicken
• 250g butternut
• 250g sweet potatoes
• 250g potatoes
• 250g carrots
• 4 shallots (optional)
• 2 table spoons of extra-virgin olive oil
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 sprigs rosemary

Method

1. Rinse the chicken and pat dry with plenty of paper towel. Leave to come to room temperature (it takes about an hour and a half).

2. Truss the chicken if you know how, or simply tie the ankles together. Preheat the oven to 250°C and place the rack in the lower third.

3. Peel the vegetables and cut into 2 x 1cm pieces. Peel and halve the shallots, lengthways.

4. Tip the veg into a cast-iron pan, toss with oil, season and add the rosemary sprigs. Nestle the chicken on top, season generously and roast for 25 minutes.

5. Reduce the heat to 200°C and continue roasting for 45 minutes. Take it out the oven and make a cut between the leg and body. If the juices run clear it’s done; if they are pink, roast for 10 minutes more.

6. Once cooked, rip off all the crispy skin and set it aside on a plate lined with paper towel. Leave the chicken to rest for 30 minutes.

7. Carve the chicken and serve with the skin and vegetables.

8. Important: Save any juices that pool on the carving board for the pasta (day three), keep the carcass for making stock and any leftover meat for soup the next day.

Roast notes:
Freeze the chicken so it doubles as an ice brick for your cooler box. Just be sure to sync the drive and defrost times so your chicken is fully thawed on arrival. Alternatively, use the frozen peas or any extra chicken carcasses you’ve packed for the same purpose.
Don’t skip step one of the recipe. Do it before unpacking the car. The skin must be bone dry to crisp up, and the chicken at room temperature to cook through properly.
Chopping the vegetables into the same smallish sizes will ensure they cook quickly and evenly.
Use pre-cut butternut and sweet potato to save chopping time on arrival. They’re sold in bags of 500g so to simplify further, use only butternut and sweet potato.
A cast-iron pan is useful for reheating the veg on the stove before serving (if necessary) but a roasting tin works fine too.

The Stock

Making stock is a hands-off process suited to lazy afternoons. All it requires is the odd skim in between reading a book or stoking the fire, and an occasional check that it’s simmering, not boiling. Multitask by gently cooking the aromatic vegetable base for the soup at the same time.

Ingredients

• 1 chicken carcass (at least)
• 1 onion, unpeeled and halved
• 1 carrot, peeled and halved
• 1 stick celery, base and leaves removed, halved
• 1 – 2 bay leaves
• 6 peppercorns
• handful of parsley sprigs

Method

1. Place the carcass and other ingredients in a large pot and cover with cold water (about four to fi ve litres).

2. Set over a medium-low heat and very slowly bring to just below boiling point. Skim any frothy, foamy scum from the surface.

3. Just as it’s on the verge of simmering, reduce the heat and cook for 90 minutes (or longer). The liquid should be moving ever so slightly, with the odd tiny bubble and steam rising off the surface.

4. Strain and refrigerate. Once cold, spoon off the layer of solid fat on top and save it for the pasta sauce (or add to the butter when making the soup base).

The Soup

A complete and comforting meal in a bowl.
Feeds 4 – 6

Image by Brandon De Kock.

Ingredients

• ¼ cup butter
• 2 onions, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 carrots, peeled and finely chopped
• 2 celery sticks, finely chopped
• sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1,5 litre of strong homemade chicken stock

Optional:
• ½ cup pasta rice
• extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 cup frozen peas
• ¼ cup crème fraîche
• chopped roast chicken (if there’s any left over)
• finely chopped flatleaf parsley

Method

1. Place the butter, onion, carrot, celery and a good pinch of salt into a medium-sized pot over a medium-low heat and put the lid on. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2. Remove the lid and cook for 45 minutes until soft, golden and caramelised. Check and stir frequently in the last 30 minutes of cooking.

3. Meanwhile, cook the pasta rice, if using, according to the packet instructions. Rinse under running cold water, toss with a drizzle of olive oil and set aside.

4. Add the stock to the soup base, bring to the boil, then add the peas (if using) and simmer until bright green and just cooked.

5. Turn off the heat and season generously with salt and pepper. Stir in the crème fraîche and leftover chicken (if using).

6. Divide the pasta rice among bowls, ladle in the soup, sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

Soup notes:

The first seven ingredients are the blueprint and can stand alone as a delicious chicken broth. Any other additions depend on personal preference. A good soup relies on powerful stock and a solid aromatic base.
The stock
Ramp up flavour by using two or three chicken carcasses to make stock – freeze them after each roast. If there’s only one carcass to hand, boil the finished stock to reduce by half before using.

The aromatic base
This is the holy trinity of onion, carrot and celery. Use generous quantities and cook low and slow until soft, sweet and caramelised. Developing these flavours cannot be rushed.

The Pasta

A quick, easy, end-of-the-weekend (or end-of-the-month) pasta.
Feeds 4

Image by Brandon De Kock.

Ingredients

• 2 cups homemade stock (or roasting juices, see Pasta Notes)
• sea salt
• 100g butter
• 4 teaspoons of rosemary, finely chopped
• 8 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
• 500g dried tagliatelle
• finely chopped parsley, for serving (optional)
• Parmesan, grated
• black pepper, freshly ground

Method

1. Pour the stock into a small pot (with any carving juices from last night’s chicken) and boil until reduced by half. Taste and add salt – it should be strong, ‘chickeny’ and delicious.

2. Melt the butter (plus any chicken fat lifted off the stock when you made it) in a pot over a medium-low to low heat and add the rosemary and garlic.

3. Cook gently for five minutes until softened. Add the reduced stock to the butter pot and boil briefly, then remove from the heat.

4. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the tagliatelle and then plenty of salt. From the moment it comes back to the boil, cook the pasta for five minutes (it should be undercooked in order to remain al dente once it’s been added to the sauce).

5. Using tongs, transfer the cooked pasta and a splash of pasta water to the other pot and cook on medium-high, tossing constantly until the sauce looks thickened and coats the pasta.

6. Toss through parsley and serve immediately with plenty of Parmesan and black pepper.

Pasta notes:
• If you roast your chicken without vegetables, pour any roasting juices into a small bowl. Deglaze the pan by adding ½ cup white wine and boiling, while stirring and scraping all the bits from the bottom, until the wine has almost cooked away. Tip this into the bowl too. Refrigerate or freeze until the fat forms a solid layer on top. Remove the fat and add it to the butter when cooking the garlic. Then use these intensely flavoured roasting juices as a starting point for the pasta sauce, and add enough homemade stock to make 1 cup of liquid.

What wine should I have with chicken?

Chooks are such easy dinner dates, as comfortable roasting in a pan as they are simmering in green curry. So finding a wine companion can be tricky unless you follow the golden rule: focus on matching with the sauce or seasoning, not the meat. As a result, plenty of chicken recipes go brilliantly with red. But for delicious roasts like this month’s opening act, or anything vaguely creamy, look no further than the Chardonnay shelf. From grilled, lemony-herb fowls to voluptuous, buttery birds, the ‘queen of grapes’ delivers in abundance.

What label?

The crazy-good-value wine
Somewhere between the Huguenot Tunnel and Worcester, you’ll find a co-op winery and its category winner in this year’s Best Value Wines competition. Slanghoek Private Selection Chardonnay 2016 is a four-star wine for (drum roll) R43. No, that’s not a road name or a typo. Only 40 per cent of the juice was in oak for four months so it’s gently wooded with a rare trait: a wine that tastes jolly expensive, but isn’t. bestvaluewineguide.com

For an earth-first thirst
At Journey’s End, Mother Nature is tickled wherever possible. For its green wines, think solar power, snail-chomping geese and housing for owls, which keep the vermin in check. They make three Chards, starting with the entry-level Haystack Chardonnay 2015 (R80), which is a fi ne example of what happens when you achieve the perfect balance between oak and fruit, neither overpowering the other. greenwineawards.com

Impress the guests
In the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley near Hermanus, Kevin Grant has been making extraordinary wines for over a decade, including a world-class, wooded Chardonnay with so much going on that your taste buds will freak out. Yes, it’s R235, but if you’d like to wow your mates or simply expand your horizons, Ataraxia Chardonnay 2015 is a proper treat.

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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From our ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and getting the best of Nepal; our May issue is guaranteed to inspire.

This article, Get three meals from one roast chicken on holiday, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Nikki Werner.

There are over 600 elephants in Addo Elephant National Park. We created a self-drive route (doable in a sedan) to see the best big animals in the park.

Also read: 10 things you didn’t know about Addo Elephant National Park

This herd of elephants was protective of their very new member. You’ll also notice, some of the females don’t have tusks in Addo.

Addo’s Main Game Area and Colchester Section are the regions that most people think about when envisioning the park. Together they are roughly 24000 hectares and this is the place to see elephant hoards (in future, some of the ellies will also be moved to other sections of the park).

Other special sights include naturally tusk-less elephants, the Addo flightless dung beetles and caracals. You’ll also see kudu in numbers as large as the herds of impala in Kruger, and an abundance of warthog snuffling about on their knees.

This regal black-maned lion was introduced to addo roughly ten years ago all the way from the Kalahari.

It’s also home to handsome lions that were introduced more than 10 years ago from the Kalahari, as well as impressive herds of Burchell’s zebra, buffalo, spotted hyena, red hartebeest and eland. Most life is found around the waterholes because this section of Addo has no natural running water and everything is pumped up by boreholes.

Beautifully-lit Burchells zebra on the Nyathi section of Addo.

Guides in Addo don’t carry firearms because these elephants are some of the gentlest in the country. They don’t feel threatened around cars and even in musth pose little threat – that said tourists should never get too close as it makes an elephant feel threatened, rather give them space and park the car a little away. More often than not, the ellies will come to you – and there are over 600 of them in the park.

There’s plenty of kudu in the park – you’ll see them like you see imapala in the kruger!

If you’re lucky you might see cheetah and leopard (very, very lucky – SANParks guide Ryan Mew last saw a leopard in 2008, but camera traps prove their presence). Addo Main Camp is the park’s hub – busy with tourists and day visitors, it’s the only area in the park with a restaurant and fascinating info centre, and from here there are guided game drives. The south is quieter. Its only camp, Matyholweni, is 36 kilometres away (without driving the various loops) and has just 15 units. No buses or caravans are allowed on these quiet meandering roads. The area is more open, making it good for game viewing and the best place to start. It’s also where I spotted my first lions.

How to see a lion

A young lioness yawns in the morning light in the Colchester section of Addo.

Your best chance is to have local guide Simnikiwe Nogaya in your vehicle (SANParks guide Ryan Mew says that four days out of seven, guides will see lions). Simni has worked in the park since 2000 and knows how to find predators. ‘I open the window when I start on a drive and listen out for jackals and hyena in the mornings. When the jackals bark, rather than howl, it could mean lion are around.’ Often, the presence of crows (there are no vultures in the park because there’s nowhere for them to nest) can alert you to a nearby kill. Simni also recommends paying attention to zebra: often they will all stare in the direction of a predator and harrumph like a horse to warn others. Old carcasses also give a good indication. Ngulube Waterhole, Hapoor Dam and the area that turns off towards Carol’s Rest are hotspots too.

Do it: A hop-on guide costs from R210 for two hours in a normal sedan. Book at Addo Main Camp or call Simni directly on 0784025888.

Plan your trip to Addo Elephant National Park

Day one: Port Elizabeth to Matyholweni

See the very special Addo flightless dung beetle in this section of the park – they’re especially common after rain.

It’s a short drive (45km) to Matyholweni Gate from Port Elizabeth Airport. Check in and drive to Ndlovu Lookout for views over the valley, then to Peasland Waterhole. A few kays later stretch your legs at the Algoa Bay Lookout Point. Then turn right onto the Ngulube Loop and stop at Ngulube Waterhole. I saw two young female lions here – sweep your binocs along the tops of the hills and look for their pale sand-colour hide against the green foliage. Carry on along the Ngulube Loop and keep left to join the Mbotyi Loop. Look out for animals – the background of sea and dunes are a perfect photo op if they comply.

Stay here: Matyholweni Rest Camp is perched on a hill. Each thatched unit is roomy with an open-plan kitchen and great outdoor dining deck with a braai overlooking the valley. The two-sleeper units have better views than the family ones. From R1390 for two people.

Day two : Matyholweni to Spekboom

The stoep at Spekboom Camp is sheltered and private. This small camp also has its own private water hole.

Leave early, head north and turn left onto Harvey’s Loop (look out for the tree protected protected against elephants by bees about two kilometres into the loop). Join the main road north again and stop for breakfast at Jack’s Picnic Site. There are no bins in the visitor areas of the parks so travel with your own rubbish bags to deter rodents. Stop at Hapoor Dam (a popular watering hole for ellies) before heading to Addo Main Camp, where you’ll need to check in for a night at Spekboom Tented Camp. While there, visit the Underground Hide and Interpretation Centre, and book a hop-on guide for the next morning. Take a drive to Carol’s Rest (another popular waterhole) and then to Spekboom to unpack while it’s still light (it’s off the grid). Head back to Hapoor Dam for golden hour – it’s just a 10-minute drive back.

Stay here: Spekboom Tented Camp consists of five well-spaced, private tents on decks screened and separated by spekboom. Number five, the last stand, was perfect because I could walk to the fence to check for anything at the waterhole down to the right. From R870 for two people.

Day three: Spekboom to Nyathi

The newest camp in Addo – Nyathi Rest Camp – is exceptional.

Take an early drive to Addo Main Camp to meet your hop-on guide (it takes about 40 minutes, so book it to start an hour after the gate opens). It’s the most affordable way to have a guided experience in the park and unique to Addo. At present Simnikiwe Nogaya is the only hop-on guide but park authorities are hoping to train more. Afterwards, check into Nyathi Rest Camp at Addo Main Camp. To get to Nyathi drive out the main gate onto the R342. It’s the only way to experience this section, which I found to be the most scenic of all the game areas.
Stay here: Nyathi Rest Camp started as a concession lodge and was recently taken over by SANParks. The self-catering cottages are plush and in a hard-to-beat location: perched high above a waterhole where game stream in to drink – even the bath has a generous view. From R1650 for two people.

Use this map to get around

The best route for seeing elephants in Addo Elephant Park.

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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From our ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and getting the best of Nepal; our May issue is guaranteed to inspire.

This article, The best elephant-spotting route in Addo Elephant National Park, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Melanie van Zyl.

The 2017 Gauteng Getaway Show, in association with Mahindra, is around the corner and promises to be an even more spectacular event filled with fun, food, good company with lots of prizes to be won and specials on offer!

The Gauteng Getaway Show is a fantastic excuse to be out and about with family and friend. From adventure to chilling, beer to wine, outdoor camping gear to market-shopping, there’s something for everyone. Here are 10 reasons why we are excited for this year’s Gauteng Getaway Show from 23 to 25 September 2017.

1. Volleyball

There will be volleyball matches with the exhibitors for your entertainment. You can also play against the best as a pro South African beach volleyball player will also be around to play.

A game of volley ball at the Gauteng Getaway Show.

2. Travel and Taste Theatre

The travel and taste theatre offers an opportunity to meet famous chefs and get top tips from their cooking sessions (plus plenty of opportunities to taste the food and ask questions). Expect everything from delicious whiskey tastings by Jack Daniels to exotic Indonesian dishes plus unusual underwater adventures. This year, we’ll also have Deputy Editor, Tyson Jopson, on the stand sharing his best photo tips and top photography from Getaway assignments.

3. The delicious food

Culture Kitchen, The Bohemian Pizza Truck and Panini Bistro are some of the food trucks that will be offering some delicious delicacies for the day – for maximum indulgence and pleasure, you are encouraged to bring an empty stomach. The Deli area and various exhibitor stands will offer artisanal foods and freshly made pancakes!

Pan cake flipping at the Deli Area where you’ll find plenty of other, more delicious food.

4. Shopping

Seize the opportunity to shop at the craft fantastic market and deli. Expect nuts, sausages, pancakes, designer gin drinks, clothes and on-trend accessories. Plus, we can promises there will be plenty of great deals on camping gear, caravans and experts on-call with the best travel packages and products around.

Showcasing over 350 exhibits including travel destinations, accommodation, outdoor gear, 4×4 products and accessories, motor homes, caravans and trailers, camping equipment and adventure operators, there is, without doubt, something for everyone.

5. Spend time with family & friends

The Getaway Show is a great excuse to get out and about with family and friends to celebrate the heritage and cultural diversity of South Africa. Take advantage of the great activities on offer and get tickets for everyone at just R80 a person, they will love you for it!

6. Let the kids have their own fun too

There will be plenty of fun for children as well. Some of the best include parachute rockets, a paintball shooting tunnel and pedal go-karts. Enjoy the show while guarantee that the kids will also have a great time.

7. Braai with us on Heritage Day at the Getaway Braai Off

Thanks to Outdoor Warehouse, Charka, Food Lover’s Market and Mabalingwe Nature Reserve we’ve got great fun in store for this Braai Day. Entries for the popular Braai off with prizes worth R20000 up for grabs are open. All you have to do to enter this fantastic competition is post a picture of your best braai moment right on our competition page with the hashtag #getawaybraaioff, and tell us whether you’re entering for the Getaway Braai Off Junior, or Getaway Braai Off Potjiekos Competition.

ENTER HERE

8. Live music and Adventure Area

Thrill seekers are going to love the climbing wall and laser shooting in the Adventure Area. However, amidst all the activity of the show there is also be the chance to chill out. Head to the beer tent and enjoy some great live music from local acts.

9. Enter more competitions

There will be plenty of competitions on the day from gear to accommodation and holiday giveaways! We have some of the best prizes lined up like this all-inclusive package to Ibo Island Lodge in Mozambique, but there’s way more on offer like a R20000 Cape Union Mart voucher and amazing bush escapes. Read more about this incredible competition here.

Win an amazing beach getaway here at Ibo Island in Mozambique, when you visit the 2017 Gauteng Getaway Show.

Enter to win this competition by joining us at 2017 Gauteng Getaway Show.

10. Getaway Wildlife Photography Workshop

Above all else, the Getaway Show aims to inspire. Join the Getaway Wildlife and Landscape Photography workshop for just R150. This popular one-day wildlife and landscape photography essentials workshop is presented by Big 5 Photos and includes entry to the Gauteng Getaway Show 2017.

Details for the 2017 Gauteng Getaway Show

Venue: Ticketpro Dome, here’s the map.
Dates: Saturday 23 September – Monday 25 September 2017.
Times: 9am – 6pm.
Buy Tickets: R80 per person and R40 for pensioners and children.

This article, 10 reasons to get excited for the 2017 Gauteng Getaway show, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Welcome Lishivha.

Holidaying on the canals of France isn’t out of your reach. Here’s how Popular Mechanics editor Anthony Doman made it work.

Captain Doman takes a turn at the wheel of the cruiser.

We’re still friends – me, my wife Theda, and Frank and Nina van der Velde – nearly two decades after passing the ultimate friendship test: holidaying together, cruising the canals of France for a memorable week in August 1998. Fast-forward to 2016. Through chilly April showers, eight of us are puttering eastwards, cooped up inside a 14,5-metre cruiser that seems increasingly cramped.

This has the potential to shred, never mind strain, the bonds of friendship. Probably not the best time to remind my wife that it was her brainwave that got us here. Fortunately, the sun came out. The sense of humour was rebooted. And we really started cruisin’.

We’re a family of runners, and the idea had been to introduce our daughter to the big leagues with the Paris Marathon. Why not drag along the son-in-law and make it a real family holiday, stretch it to two weeks and take in a canal trip? Four of our running-group friends agreed. They insisted on coming along too.

From left, daughter Antonia Appel, Irma Ronne, writer Anthony, George Woodman, Cheryl Bongers, Robert Borel-Saladin, son-in-law Craig Appel (and Theda Doman was behind the camera).

Which is why, on post-marathon Monday, 450 kilometres from Paris, a travel-weary but manically grinning eight stepped on to a Salsa 40 cruiser. And by sheer coincidence, out of all the many canal routes available, just one suited our early April Monday afternoon departure: the Arzviller Experience, the exact route we’d done in 1998.

Think of a canal cruiser as a big motorhome, only without wheels. There are two steering positions – one inside and our preferred one, up on the flying bridge. Armed with a pre-trip briefing, hands-on demonstration and a comprehensive boat book, you’re almost, but not quite, mentally prepared for the mildly unnerving experience a few days later of floating through two narrow tunnels close by, a total of three kilometres long, in the dark.

One week on a canal cruiser costs roughly R4300 per person for eight adults sharing.

Most of our party had a go at piloting, and some clearly took to it more than others. There are plenty of bends – and traffic, at times. With a speed limit of eight kilometres per hour, you’ll find out soon enough that a leisure boat responds sluggishly to steering inputs and needs constant minor corrections and countersteering to stay on course. Bigger models like the Salsa 40 have the advantage of bow thrusters. Still, you’ll be grateful for those fenders.

There’s a lot more to it than driving; the locks will keep you busy, even though access in this region is now largely automated. The system employs a variety of sensors (including radar, infrared beams, remote controls and clearly signposted pull-rope actuators) to prepare for a boat’s approach. The sensors trigger simple green/red traffic light-style indicators.

Once you’re in the lock and tied up firmly fore and aft, the engine running in neutral, a tug on the actuation rod alongside sets the process in motion automatically. The entry gates close, the water level adjusts and once it’s at the right level, the exit gates open. Which doesn’t adequately set the scene for the huge lift at Arzviller – this mechanical marvel can hoist or lower 900 tons in 25 minutes, from mooring to exit. It eliminates 17 locks and what used to be an eight-hour ordeal.

Theda cycles alongside the canal – the boat’s top speed is 8km/h so there’s no chance you’ll get left behind.

If cabin fever strikes, you can hit the smoothly tarred former towpaths, which are closed to motorised traffic. We saw runners, riders, walkers and rollerbladers. Towns and supermarkets are often within walking distance, and bicycles are a great help in bringing back local produce, which is usually of excellent quality – with prices that didn’t scare us off – plus the variety is staggering.

In summer, part of the off-boat experience is haggling for fresh produce from canal-facing back gardens. Back in ’98 we bought gigantic marrows from a stout riparian we dubbed Mrs Boathook on account of my remembering, way too late, that I had left said hook by her back gate.

For this trip we’d planned two big stops, in Saverne and Strasbourg. At the first, an impressive view of the town along the arrow-straight entry is interrupted by a vertiginous lock, at 5,43 metres it’s more than double the standard 2,6-metre depth. It’s an eerie sensation, rising out of the dripping gloom until you’re able to eyeball passers-by. For the most part, people don’t pay much attention to the canal boats – but activity at a lock always seemed to draw a few spectators.

Back in 1998, it was here in Saverne that we first discovered that tasty Alsatian speciality, tarte flambée. We also pedalled to the ‘eye of Alsace’, the medieval Château de Haut Barr, which overlooks the Alsace plain. This time, with 42,2 Paris Marathon kays in our legs, our party opted for a stroll around town instead. Saverne’s sloping cobbled main drag is an aesthetic treat lined with characterful buildings and, in spring, colourful flowering plants – notably geraniums – in street and window boxes.

Exiting a lock can be a tight squeeze at times – you’ll be grateful for those bumpers.

The entry to the capital of Alsace, Strasbourg – ‘town at the crossroads’ – is a different level of awe-inspiring. You waft past the glass edifice of the European Parliament building, turn right at the imposing gate holding back the Rhine, and your world expands into an intimidating basin traversed by seriously grown-up boats. We found secure mooring for three nights at the Quai des Belges, run by an outfit called Koejak. It’s close enough to the centre of town to explore sights such as the historic quarter of Petite France and indulge in some tourist shopping amid cherry blossoms and characteristic purply- pink magnolias. It’s also where we met Bernadette and Heinz, a Swiss couple who have been travelling the canals since 2010.

The weather in Strasbourg was good enough for me to head out on a run across the border to Kehl in Germany. To celebrate our last night in the city, we splashed out on dinner at the popular Au Pont Saint- Martin restaurant. Perched over the water, we watched a glorious Saturday gracefully fade to black.

Our holiday quietly ebbed away on a golden Sunday evening at Boofzheim. Nothing useful was open there, or at the two neighbouring towns I cycled to. Fortunately, if French cuisine is regarded as superior, it follows that French leftovers are a cut above too. Our cobbled-together farewell supper (baguettes, two cheeses, salami, brinjal bake and crisps) left a warm glow to match the surroundings. We even had sufficient for the next day’s breakfast. It seemed like an appropriate time to remind my wife that it was her brainwave that got us all here in the first place.

So far, we’re still friends.

Plan your trip to France

Tiny Boofzheim base at the end of the cruise; the quiet stretch south between Strasbourg and Boofzheim.

Getting there

We paid R10615 per person to Paris on Qatar Airways. Flying via other European hubs to Strasbourg might be a cost-effective alternative to our Paris-linked itinerary (Strasbourg is closer to Hesse, the starting point of the cruise – just 78 kilometres away).

Getting around

To get to Le Boat’s base in Hesse (450 kilometres from Paris), we took the high-speed TGV from Gare du Nord to Sarrebourg (R690 per person) and thence by taxi (R262). From the Boofzheim end-point our R206 taxi, booked when collecting the boat, took us to the inter-city train from Benfeld to Strasbourg (R83 per person). The return TGV from Strasbourg to Paris cost around R965 per person.

The Arzviller Experience canal cruise runs one way for 106 kilometres along the Canal de la Marne au Rhin, past 13 key towns and villages and through 43 locks. Without stops it would take 23 hours of cruising, based on an average speed of 7,5 kilometres per hour and 13 minutes per lock.

When to go

Canal-cruising season is April to October. The weather can be sunny, misty, overcast or rainy in spring, summer and autumn. Early spring, when we went, the canals are quieter. Summer is high season for cruising, but autumn is most popular.

The boat

We picked the ‘8+4’ Salsa 40B with four double cabins, each with separate access to a bathroom either side (to avoid ugly scenes, we allocated the two bathrooms along strict gender lines). There are also four sleeper couches (good for children) in the lounge, a smart galley and sundeck. For the rest, from gas stove to two fridges, linen and towels, we had everything you’d expect to find in a fully stocked motorhome – although you might want to rent a gas braai from Le Boat. Our ‘starter pack’ (R720) included essentials such as bread, olive oil, coffee, milk, sugar, butter, condiments, wine, beer, snacks and water. The boat has interior heating and fans but no air con.

Costs

Boat hire for the week was R25182, but we got an early-booking discount. Actual cost was R26482, including a one-way trip fee of R1795 and damage waiver of R361 per day. You pay a fuel deposit of R3450; we ended up using only R2330 of diesel. Charges at formal moorings (in towns) are about R275 a night, which includes water and electricity. Outside of towns it costs nothing, and you’ll use the onboard water and deep-cycle batteries. Trip rates vary according to size and class of boat, which route you choose and the season. leboat.co.za

Supermarket prices: baguette or a kilo of potatoes around R20, R110 for 500 grams of cheese, R48 for a dozen eggs, R27 for a 500ml of beer and a passable bottle of red wine costs about R115. We never came close to exceeding our daily food budget of R700 each.

Need to know

The ‘crew’ don’t need boat shoes but it can get slippery; tackies are fine. Also pack a lightweight rainjacket. Cycling or gardening gloves are good for avoiding rope burn when mooring. Hats, sunglasses and sunblock are advisable due to the glare off the boat’s white deck. Pack a torch – it can get dark around the moorings. Because space is at a premium on board, keep your luggage compact.

Do this

The moorings in Saverne are beside the 18th-century Rohan Palace, once home to the archbishops of Strasbourg; the Taverne Katz in Saverne boasts ornate timber work and a history dating back to the 1600s.

Hire bicycles. We got four city bikes from Le Boat at R679 each for a week. They proved invaluable for grocery shopping and general leg-stretching.

In Saverne the Château des Rohan is the ‘poor man’s Versailles’ (entry R45 per person) and the rose garden, Le Roseraie, created in 1898 is equally lovely (R34 per person).

In Strasbourg, the Notre-Dame Cathedral has magnificent stained-glass windows and a medieval astronomical clock with automatons (they appear at 12.30pm daily). Entry is R74 per person.

Dine next to the river at Au Pont Saint- Martin in Strasbourg’s picturesque Petite France/Quartier des Tanneurs district. Regional menu; mains cost around R220. pont-saint-martin.com

Eat tarte flambée, aka Alsatian pizza. A crisp, crackly base topped with onions, crème fraîche and lardons (matchsticks of bacon). You can find them everywhere (including at Au Point, from R100).

Drink wine. Alsace is a noted wine region, especially for Riesling. Its wine route is one of the oldest in France, and runs south from west of Strasbourg for 170 kilometres (parallel to the final Grand Ried section of the canal cruise but about 20 kilometres ‘inland’). alsace-wine-route.com

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

This article, Route canals: cruising France on a budget, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Getaway.

Poke (pronounced ‘poh-kay’) bowls are fresh, colourful feasts sure to have everyone smiling this summer.

Sunshine on a plate. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Poke is a Hawaiian surfer/street food traditionally made with raw tuna cubes, seaweed, soy sauce and rice, and has rapidly spread around the globe, with each culture adding its own tastes to the mix. Basically, it’s lazy sushi and now it’s in South Africa too. It’s not limited to raw fish, (cooked) chicken and beef is available too. This is casual food that’s gorgeous, textured, surprisingly filling and over-delivers on taste. Expect to pay around R60 to R120.

Poke restaurants in Johannesburg

1. ONO Eatery

Address: Corlett Drive in Illovo Junction

Hours: Open at 7:30, weekly

Tel: 0735063207

Colourful and healthy meals? Yes please. Image by ONO Eatery

ONO Eatery is the new kid on the block in Sandton. The meals served at this eatery are colourful and exceptionally healthy. You have hearty options for breakfast, lunch and dinner, plus the option to build your own fresh poke bowl. Their best seller is the Prawn Sriracha Poke Bowl. This magical bowl comes with prawns, slaw, seasonal salsa, pickles, sweet peppers, sliced radish, avo and yuzu salad dressing.

2. Momo Soko

Address: 198 Oxford Road, Illovo

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 11:00

Tel: 0112686182

Expect fresh vibrant ingredients like Norwegian Salmon, edamame, pickled ginger and shitake, avocado, ramen egg, yello daikon, kale, spring onion, Asian slaw, fried garlic, red onion, wakame seaweed, toasted sesame and ginger scallion drizzle at Momo Soko. Photo by Angie Batis

‘Momo Soko‘ means ‘more food please’ and this spot in Joburg will definitely leave you wanting exactly that. The owners of Momo Bauhaus in Greenside decided to create a space with a modern Asian feel in the Muse Centre in Illovo. Momo Soko has a menu of bao buns, skewers, poke bowls and tapas too. Their best seller bowls sound amazing with Norwegian salmon, pickles, slaws, kale, seaweed and some salad dressing. There is also no liquor licence so bring your own (corkage is free). Read a full review on Momo Soko here.

3. Sushi Burrito & Co.

Address: 10 Crescent Drive, Birnam, Melrose Arch

Hours: Monday to Sunday from 11:00

Tel: 0649281031

A Sashimi Salad creation from Sushi Burrito & Co. Image by Sushi Burrito & Co.

Sushi Burrito & Co. offers a brand new concept when it comes to food. The new restaurant based in Melrose prides itself on a new novelty offering that combines Asian and Latin flavours – the sushi burrito. The menu ranges from sushi burrito’s, poke bowls, tapas, rice and noodle bowls. The poke bowls are served with a rice or a fresh salad and the Sashimi Salad will definitely grab your attention: it consists if prawn, caviar, salmon, wakame, cucumber spaghetti, beetroot spaghetti, ponzu sauce served with brown rice or mixed greens.

Poke restaurants in Cape Town

4. Three Wise Monkeys

Address: 77 Regent Road, Seapoint

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 12:00

Tel: 0214331837

Fresh poke, soya sauce and seared fish make for a great combination at Three Wise Monkeys.

Love Ramen and sushi? Three Wise Monkeys is a Japanese restaurant that offers a variety of ramen, kushiyaki, sushi and our good old favourite, poke bowls. If you are a Seapoint local or visit the area often, why not try out their tuna, salmon, edamame beans, vegetables with a firecracker mayonnaise? The mayonnaise is not for the faint hearted…

5. Hokey Poke Bar and Take Away

Address: 1 Church Street

Hours: Monday to Saturday from 12:00

Tel: 0214224382

Fresh, simple and filling. Image by Tyson Jopson

The Hokey Poke Bar and Take Away is the first of its kind in Cape Town and has grown since it first made its way to the city – now you can also find them at the MOJO Market in Seapoint. Both offer a small menu of set dishes, for those who need to get their head around this new taste sensation, but you can also ‘build your own bowl’. For example, mix shredded seaweed, edamame, pickled beetroot, sprouts, avo, fruit and, for a little added crunch, crispy noodles, crushed nachos or salmon crackling.

The number three poke bowl which consists of pickled ginger, tuna, avo, crispy onion, furikake seasoning and seasonal fruit (nectarine for this season) is the tasty bowl customers most often return for.

6. Manga

Address: Corner Rothesay and Beach Road in Moulie Point

Hours: Monday to Friday from 10:00 and from 8:00 on a weekend

Tel: 0212022720

Poke is a quick and easy dinner that’s exceptionally tasty, like this bright bowl from Manga.

The Manga Restaurant is on the Mouille Point Promenade overlooking the ocean. The name Manga, refers to a style of a Japanese comic book and the menu includes sushi tacos, pork wontons and beef potstickers as well as poke. Word on the street is that their best seller is the Crazy Salmon Roll – eight pieces of marinated salmon and avocado that’s seared to deliciousness.

Tried Poke yet? Tell us which is the best.

This article, Next level sushi: 6 fresh Poke spots to try this summer, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Ondela Mlandu.

This was the Getaway team’s brief: Find the best beach cottages and houses close to both the sea and international airports. Three bedrooms or less, preferably with direct beach access or within 500m from the coast. Aaaand go.

The distance from major airports proved to be the most challenging. In some areas, there were so many options to pick from and in others we had to dig and dig. Thankfully, all our hours of searching came to fruition. We can confidently say that these are some of the top cottages and houses around South Africa. Ideal for your next, perfect, beach holiday – and you don’t have to drive for hours to get there.

This is a sneak peak photoblog of our favourite beach escapes. Find all of the best beach addresses in the September 2017 issue, out on shelves now.

The sunsets at this beach are wonderful: people walk their dogs, surf in the waves or sit and chat with friends as the sun slowly turns the sky to fire. This beach is less than a minutes walk from our chosen hut.

This cute little house has been cleverly designed to include everything you need without feeling cramped.

Getaway’s editor, Sonya Schoeman, loved this wooden deck overlooking the bay. After a cup of coffee and a read, she headed down to the clear waters of the marine reserve for a brisk swim.

This upmarket home has an epic main bedroom- a huge bath, and king-sized bed that stares at the sea.

Kati Auld wrote about one of the cottages, and doubled as the star in our latest TV advert (check it out at the end of this post).

We had a divine night here, braaing outside with a few candles and a pack of cards. Nearby are hidden coves and you might even might even spot some whales.

This cottage made our September cover. I thoroughly recommend a visit.

Most of our options have a private pathway to the beach to this view.

There’s a peaceful calm perforating the air of this cool beach cottage, and it’s just a short walk downhill to the beach.

Whether you want to watch the ocean from your bed or have a fish braai overlooking the rocks we’ve got the perfect options.

Watch the best beach moments from our trip

Find these breathtaking beach cottages in the September Getaway issue.

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Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!

This article, In photos: 11 amazing beach cottages around SA, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Teagan Cunniffe.

Summer is upon us and the weather is getting warmer, which means more time for wine and fun in the sun. Need more excuses to soak up the sunshine? Here are 12 festivals that’ll make it easier to head out and indulge in some Vitamin D.

1. Rocking the Daisies

Price: From R850 for a weekend pass for phase1 (Phase 2 is R950 and phase 3 R1050).
Dates: 5 – 8 October 2017.
Venue: Cloof Wine Estate.
Contact: 0105912947, hello@rockingthedaisies.com.

Listen to some of the best music South Africa has to offer, along with outstanding international acts.

Rocking the Daisies is South Africa’s biggest and hottest outdoor gathering, and takes place over four days. As always the festival will be hosted in Darling at Cloof Wine Estate. The festival promises a variety of entertainment, from the jam-packed line-up of music to comedy, art, film with hundreds of top local acts and some of the world’s most inspiring artists performing on multiple stages. From music to camping, and fun across a variety of genres, this years’ Rocking The Daisies promises goers a memorable weekend. If you can’t get your hands in tickets be sure to visit Cloof this summer anyway and check out the wines in the Cloof Tasting Room – just R35 for four wines.

2. Franschhoek Uncorked

Price: R150 per person for a weekend pass. Pre-book tickets online.
Dates: 16 – 17 September 2017.
Venue: Franschhoek Wine Valley.
Contact: 0218762861, franschhoekuncorked.co.za.

Franschhoek Uncorked Festival, Dieu Donne.

The Franschhoek Uncorked festival is an annual event celebrating the tradition of wine-making and the wine farms in Franschhoek that have secured the spot as one of South Africa’s high tourist destination. The festival includes a variety of wine tastings and food pairings from the surrounding wine farms and also offers entertainment like great live music and giant Jenga.

3. Cape Town Fringe Festival

Price: To browse and book shows, visit their website.
Dates: 21 September – 8 October 2017.
Venue: Cape Town City Hall will be the hub but the festival will be hosted throughout the city central.
Contact: capetownfringe.co.za.

View of Cape Town from a helicopter.

The Cape Town Fringe Festival is the brainchild from the Grahamstown National Arts Festival. It brings favourites and highlights from the National Arts Festival and goers can expect a variety of art performances and unusual pieces. From music, dance, comedy, award-winning plays, food, magic and a children festival. The Fringe is also a great platform for upcoming artists to test out material ahead of the National Arts Festival next year, and unlike the National Arts Festival that’s based in Grahamstown, the Fringe offers a more urban space with lots more to do for those who are flying down to the Cape specifically for this event.

4. Chocolate and Coffee Expo

Price: R100 for entrance, buy tickets online here.
Dates: 6 – 8 October 2017.
Venue: Durbanville Race Course.
Contact: 0825633332, info@coffeechoc.co.za.

Coffee & Chocolate Expo. Photo by: Christiaan Kotze

The Chocolate and Coffee expo offers tips, techniques and the latest trends on coffee and chocolate. The event is perfect for those who cannot live without these treats. Sample and taste anything related to chocolate and coffee and learn a thing or two about how they’re made.

5. Thousand Sensations Craft beer and food festival

Price: R90 for a day visit and R120 for Friday and Saturday. Children between 13 and 18 pay R30 and children under 13 get in for free.
Dates: 15 and 16 September 2017.
Venue: The Wilderness Hotel.
Contact: 0824575675, thousandsensations.co.za.

A Thousand Sensations Craft Beer and Food Festival on the Garden route is the largest of its kind in this region. As always there’s craft beer and delicious food on the menu. The Wilderness Hotel along with 10 gourmet food stalls are tasked with keeping stomachs full and guests satisfied throughout the weekend. There will be live performances from local bands and artists will ensure entertainment in an already scenic set-up.

6. Hermanus Flower Festival

Price: R25 per person for each day.
Dates: 22 – 25 September 2017.
Venue: Fernkloof Nature Reserve.
Contact: altapretoriushermanus@gmail.com.

Hermanus’ striking shoreline. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Find great exhibits and information on the variety of fynbos that grows in Hermanus at the annual Hermanus Flower Festival. Hosted at the Femkloof Nature Reserve, the festival will be celebrating 60 years since the establishment of the reserve. The event includes activities and installations such as a floral display in the hall and exhibit of up to 400 named specimens in flower, landscaped indigenous gardens in the amphitheatre plus an opportunity to buy plants from a selection of 300 species. The Fynbos Cafe will also be serving teas and lunches with wine and much more.

7. Darling Wild Flower Festival

Price: R60 per person
Dates: 14 – 17 September 2017.
Venue: Darling Club.
Contact: 0849161111, darlingwildflowers@gmail.com.

We came across these flowers on a day trip to Darling from Cape Town. There’ll be plenty more with varied colours and texture at the Darling Wild Flower Festival. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The Darling Wild Flower Festival is celebrating its 100th year this year and they’ve put together a jam-packed programme to celebrate one of the most longstanding flowers festivals in the country. The exhibition of flowers at the festival is selected by the Darling Wildflower Society. Funds and proceeds made from the festival go towards the preservation of flowers and the biosphere of this little village.

8. Oyster & Champagne Festival

Price: R160 per person. Book online here.
Dates: 14 – 15 October 2017.
Venue: Hillcrest Quarry, Hillcrest Wine Estate.
Contact: Follow their Facebook page, Oyster & Champagne Festival.

Oysters with Tabasco.

Oysters and Champagne? We needn’t say more. There’s honestly no better way to take advantage of the warm weather than to indulge in a wide selection of bubbly, Cap Classique and sparkling wines accompanied with a range of oysters. Upon arrival at the Oyster & Champagne Festival, you’ll receive a branded flute glass and 5 tasting tickets with more tasting tickets available for purchase as you need them.

9. Hermanus Whale Festival

Price: Free.
Dates: 29 September – 1 October 2017.
Venue: 100 Main Road, Hermanus.
Contact: 0283130928, hermanuswhalefestival.co.za.

A flying whale. Photo by Steven Benjamin.

Hermanus is considered the whale-watching capital of the world. Get a stunning view of the migration of the whales and other marine wildlife in this quaint little coastal town. Not far from Cape Town, the Hermanus Whale Festival is a great reason to visit the charming town, watch whales and enjoy live music performances.

10. Robertson Wine on the River

Price: Weekend pass: R250 for early bird & R280 for the second phase. (Friday R140, Saturday R200, Sunday R120)
Dates: 20 – 22 October 2017.
Venue: Robertson Wine Valley, 2 Reitz Street, Robertson Goudmyn Farm.
Contact: 0236263167, wineonriver.com.

Robertson Wine Valley Festival.

Enjoy wine and the stunning views of the Breede River at the Robertson Wine on the River Festival. The banks of this stunning river on Goudmyn Farm will come alive with the Valley’s esteemed winemakers, local chefs and producers, with almost 30 wineries to taste from. There’ll be entertainment for children, boat cruises, horse and tractor rides.

Also read: Visit Robertson: bourgeoisie for beginners.

11. Cape Town International Boat Show

Price: R100 adults.
Dates: 20 – 22 October 2017.
Venue: V&A Waterfront.
Contact: 0215315703, boatshow.co.za.

The V&A Waterfront.

Referred to as ‘the granddaddy of boat shows on the African continent’, the Cape Town International Boat Show attracts thousands of boat enthusiasts from across the continent. The show includes exhibitions of a verity of boats, boat-related products for purchase, demonstrations and competitions with prizes to be won.

12. Season of Sauvignon Festival

Price: Free and up to R300.
Dates: 28 October – 29 October 2017.
Venue: Durbanville Wine Valley.
Contact: 0833101228 or events@durbanvillewine.co.za.

Durbanville Hills Wine Estate. Photo by Jose Romeu.

Usher in the white wine season with a vibrant and fun weekend and find the best blancs on the block. A 20-minute drive from Cape Town, the Season of Sauvignon Festival includes 12 prestigious wine farms, offering a wide variety of festivities over the weekend. There’ll also be plenty of opportunities to try out new wines from this wine route, such as the Durbanville Twelve Sauvignon Blanc.

What festivals are you most looking forward to this spring? Share your answer with us in the comments below!

This article, 12 summer festivals in and around Cape Town, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Welcome Lishivha.

Historian Steven Kotze takes a look at Pietermaritzburg, the Kwa-Zulu Natal town so rooted in the past, but with a new present emerging.

The Insider: Steven Kotze was born in Maritzburg, went to school and varsity there, visits frequently and still thinks fondly of his hometown. A history expert who has worked as a guide and authored two books, he is now a researcher for Durban’s Local History Museum.

A ‘living cathedral’ formed by the plane of trees planted at the KwaZulu-Natal National Botanical Gardens in 1908.

During the 1980s, when I was growing up in Pietermaritzburg, a stunningly misguided branding campaign for the city came up with the payoff line ‘Last Outpost of the British Empire’, which was printed on stickers emblazoned with the red, white and blue stripes of the Union Flag. The exact intention of the stickers remains unclear, but it was probably a celebration of red-brick, broekie-lace colonial architectural heritage and some undefined cultural legacy of a long-ago era wrapped up in the supposed Englishness of Maritzburg.

This all, quite likely, seemed a clever but harmless approach to the tourism people, but today we recognise it as a Zille-like take on colonial exploitation and conquest. It involved and still, requires, a sanitised, soft-focus gaze careful to avert looking at the unpleasant bits such as burning civilian homesteads during war and other military atrocities committed by those awfully smart redcoat soldiers.

The duck pond in the Botanical Gardens. Photo by Steve Kotze.

During the 1970s and 80s, the city carefully tended its mythical image of Victorian decorum with a particular focus on its mother lode of 19th-century clay-brick buildings, quaint lanes and family-owned businesses that lined Church Street, the central spine of that identity. Three decades later, the former colonial capital has undergone a radical transformation, with the last few key relics of that former period marooned, coelacanth-like, floating along in an utterly changed world.

Right in the centre of town, the short stretch from Church Street to Peter Kerchhoff Street to Chief Albert Luthuli Street conveys a sense of imperial complexity in ways the old bumper sticker couldn’t. Set alongside the ultra-modern Cathedral of the Holy Nativity is St Peter’s, a little church that’s a monument to the remarkable career of John William Colenso. He was a mathematical genius turned missionary whose controversial, avant-garde biblical interpretation shook the entire Victorian establishment in the same way Charles Darwin’s Theory of Evolution did at roughly the same time.

Maritzburg’s famous red-brick City Hall, celebrated for its ornate Victorian architecture and as the starting point of the Comrades Marathon down-run to Durban.

Colenso was the first Bishop of Natal and was given the Zulu name Sobantu (‘father of the people’), a title also bestowed upon the earliest township in Pietermaritzburg, established in 1924 on what was then the edge of town. This little community was later home to a number of anti-apartheid activists, MK stalwarts, jazz legends and other non-conformists. The bishop would’ve been proud.

From Colenso’s church towards the undeniably impressive City Hall (on seeing it my daughter asked me, ‘Who lives in that palace?’), fast-food joints jostle with big department stores all the way down Church Street in a way that was unthinkable when I was at school. Off the main strip, though, the little lanes have undergone the most impressive makeover. Once the placid setting of legal firms surrounding the provincial legislature and Tatham Art Gallery, labyrinthine walkways are teeming with hair salons that spill out onto the pavement and fill the air with the music of Africa. These days the city centre has an identity that is more in tune with its geography.

Around the corner, the KwaZulu-Natal Museum in Jabu Ndlovu Street is the oldest institution of its kind in the province. The Natal Society, established in May 1851 to promote emigration to the recently established colony, took over the small public library in Pietermaritzburg and by September that year the Society council appointed a committee responsible for founding the museum. Although it took two decades before the first makeshift exhibition was displayed, and even longer for its larger ambitions to be realised. Due to public demand for a museum (remember, no Internet back then), and the inadequate state of the existing facilities, the colonial government took over the collection in 1901. Dr Ernest Warren, the zoologist appointed as director of the new museum, spent three decades at his post and built a wonderful natural history collection.

Left: The winged figure of Victory on top of the Natal Volunteers war memorial. Right: An old-school display of antelope taxidermy in the KwaZulu-Natal Museum.

The museum remains one of the finest in the country, with excellent displays of the furry and feathered inhabitants of the region. My favourite is a cabinet of curiosities collected in the early days of the museum, more carnival freak show than scientific exhibit, but which are as fascinating today as they were 100 years ago. Think giant furballs extracted from animals’ stomachs, two-headed calves and the like. Recent political events, including the bloodbath that marked the final spasms of apartheid in the province, are well presented too, and essential, if painful, viewing for South Africans born after it was all over.

Along with taxidermy, gardening obsessively is another Victorian stereotype that gets a lot of attention. Perhaps colonial apologists hope the perennials and shrubs are a distraction from those awkward genocidal tendencies? The KwaZulu-Natal National Botanical Garden in Mayors Walk is an eclectic mix of exotic plants from when the gardens were first established and more recent additions of indigenous flora. The avenue of enormous plane trees is famous for its vast carpet of fallen leaves in autumn, but further along a grove of soaring Australian Eucalyptus grandis is just as impressive, with gigantic trunks that conjure up an image of the elven forest of Lothlórien.

The thing is, Maritzburg (and no one who’s from here uses the full name) has quite enough impressive tricks of its own tucked up its sleeves. It never needed to be the last outpost of someone else’s bad idea.

Where do the locals go?

Muhammed Moosa, chef at Mo-G’s

‘Albert Falls Dam, just outside town, is only 20 minutes from my home and the perfect place to relax with the family surrounded by nature.’

Viranna Frank, PRO
‘My two boys never tire of the botanical gardens or Queen Elizabeth Park, both great for nature hikes or just to relax in the tranquil surroundings.’

Oscar Dhlomo, publisher
‘Broadway Lifestyle in Imbali is close to a big academic precinct, as well as where ordinary people live, so it’s great to go there for traditional food and a vibrant reflection of the community.’

Shelagh McLoughlin, writer
‘The plantations around Hilton are my favourite place to escape, for walking, running or mountain biking. Talk to a local about safe places to go.’

Representations of Hindu deities on the Sri Siva Soobramoniar and Marriamen Temples.

Plan your trip

Getting there

Pietermaritzburg is less than an hour’s drive from Durban on the N3. Airlink recently launched flights to Maritzburg’s Oribi Airport from Joburg or Cape Town. From R2500 return. travelstart.co.za

Stay here

Redlands Hotel is set in the northern suburb of Wembley, and is part of a gated estate, not that you’d notice. The Library Suites have views over the trees in the estate. From R1630 for a double room.

Heritage House in Miller Street, next door to Mo-G’s, is the best place to spend a night in a cute little 120-year old red-brick house. From R600 for two sharing.

Ascot Bush Lodge is located on the banks of the Msunduzi River and has thatched cottages surrounded by natural splendour only a stone’s throw from the city centre. From R700 for a rondavel sleeping two.

The Redland Hotel.

Do this

Potter around the Pietermaritzburg Farmers’ Market, on Saturday mornings in the botanical gardens. You can grab a pastry and coffee and spread a blanket under the trees, or walk through the gardens and up the hill on the other side of the Dorpspruit. Entry R25 per person. 2 Zwartkop Road. Tel 0333443585.

Visit Sri Siva Soobramoniar and Marriamen Temples. They were first established as wood and iron structures in the 1860s by Indian indentured labourers. The beautiful sanctuary on the site is almost a century old. Wear clothing that covers your shoulders and legs, and no shoes are allowed inside the temple grounds. Free entry. 545 Langalibalele Street. Tel 0333425430.

Browse the Tatham Art Gallery. It’s filled with great work, including an exhibition by 2016 Standard Bank Young Artist Mohau Modisakeng until 17 May, and has the best view of both the City Hall and the Comrades Marathon start. There’s a nice cafe here too. Free entry. Chief Albert Luthuli Street. Tel 0333922800.

Find the cabinet of curiosities at the KwaZulu-Natal Museum. The museum combines natural and cultural history, so you can see anything from dinosaurs to recreated shipwrecks. Entry R10 per person. 237 Jabu Ndlovu Street.

The exhibition at the Tatham Art Gallery.

Three must-do urban walks in Pietermaritzburg

World’s View: One of Maritzburg’s oldest routes is from World’s View, along the old wagon track through a plantation and into Voortrekker Road. Villiers Drive and Roberts Road will bring you into town via leafy Clarendon suburb. It’s best to go in a group.

Sobantu Heritage Route: The homes of notable activists such as Harry Gwala and Anton Xaba, as well as artists and sporting legends, are in Sobantu. The Mgungundlovu Liberation Heritage Route offers walking tours of the township. Tel 0729333757.

Alexandra Park: Stroll from Balmoral Drive through Alexandra Park over the cast-iron Macfarlane Bridge at the Msunduzi River. From there the track pops out on Prince Alfred Street in front of the old Grey’s Hospital heading to Chief Albert Luthuli Street.

Eat here

Mo-G’s has undergone a renovation and revamped its menu to blur the distinction between lunch and supper. Try the Moroccan lamb cutlets served with dukkah couscous and red pepper cream. Mains start at R120. Tel 0836378861.

Rosehurst combines redbrick and a Victorian English garden as the backdrop for lunch, tea or a sweet treat. Browse through the antiques, collectables and second-hand books. Meals from R79, pastries R35. Tel 0333943833.

Pizzology is a Maritzburg institution, loved because it gave townsfolk their very own excellent artisanal pizzas. From R45. Tel 0333450024.

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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This article, A historian’s guide to Pietermaritzburg, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Getaway.

This week (11 to 17 September 2017) is officially Cleanup & Recycle SA Week and we want to keep our beautiful South African heritage litter-free.

It’s estimated that 350kg of plastic waste enters the ocean every second. If things don’t change by 2045 (only 28 years from now) there could be as much at 600kg of waste entering the ocean every second.

Turtles are super susceptible to eating and choking on plastic bags, which look like jelly fish in the big blue.

The plastic bag is said to have an average ‘working life’ of 15 minutes – the other stats are just as horrifying. Help deliver a wave of change to our shores (South Africa is home to nearly 1500km of coastline) on International Coastal Cleanup Day and help pick up plastic littering one of these spots in SA on Saturday 16 September 2017.

Also read: Marine conservation: how you can get involved.

What is International Coastal Cleanup Day?

For the past 20 years the International Coastal Cleanup initiative has helped to raise awareness on marine pollution, inadequate waste management and highlights the ever-increasing need for recycling and non-littering in South Africa.

The South African plastics and packaging industry spearhead the annual Cleanup and Recycle SA Week and almost 120000 volunteers take part in a huge series of cleanups along roads, near schools and in various communities across the country, making sure as much as possible of the waste collected is recycled. What is marine waste? Anything from oil to tiny pieces of plastic found in some body washes. Read the full press release from Plastics SA here.

This year’s Big Cleanup network enables all South Africans to actively get involved and improve the health of our local marine resources.

Get involved! Join us on 16 September 2017

The WESSA Tourism Blue Flag project – a three-year coastal tourism and youth development project – along with the Let’s Do It! Africa waste awareness campaign will run or support a total of 22 registered coastal cleanup events. Find the one closest to you.

The Getaway team will be also be taking part, you can join us on Saturday 16 September at 10am and help clean up our oceans at Muizenberg, Sunrise Circle (meet at the parking lot on Access Road).

First, download this awesome app

Download the Clean Swell app onto your phone before the cleanup and become a citizen scientist while you collect trash. This app will let you share your achievements, and also provide valuable data to the Ocean Conservancy‘s research database because it helps to record every item of trash you collect, track your total distance cleaned and helps to identify trash trends. Download it for Apple or Android.

Then find a Coastal Cleanup close to you

Use this map to see all the Coastal Cleanup locations and details.

Western Cape

False Bay Hope Spot has plenty of pools to explore sea life; Hope Spots are not only about the sea life but the entire coastal ecosystem. Images by Teagan Cunniffe

Milnerton Beach ICC Day Cleanup by the Two Oceans Aquarium
Melkbosstrand by City of Cape Town
Camps Bay Beach by WESSA
Simon’s Town Long Beach by WESSA
Muizenberg Beach (16 & 20 Sep) by CTEET, WESSA and The Beach Co-operative
Mnandi Beach by WESSA
Stilbaai Beach by WESSA
Hermanus Grotto Beach by WESSA, Coastal Cleanup Convention and Overstrand Municipality
Mossel Bay by WESSA
Sedgefield Myoli Beach by Knysna Municipality
Wilderness Beach by WESSA
Plettenberg Bay (15 & 16 Sep) by Nature’s Valley Trust and WESSA
Yzerfontein Beach Cleanup (9 Sep) by Plastics SA and Yzerfontein Tourism
Robben Island Cleanup (15 Sep) by PETCO

Eastern Cape

Cape Recife Lighthouse from the beach is part of the Algoa Bay Hope Spot. The Samrec Penguin Rescue Station is close by. Image by Teagan Cunniffe

Jeffrey’s Bay Dolphin Beach by WESSA
Port Elizabeth King’s Beach by WESSA
Kenton-on-Sea by Sustainable Seas Trust and WESSA
Port Alfred Kelly’s Beach by WESSA
Hamburg Beach by WESSA

Kwa-Zulu Natal

Stand-up paddlers heading out to the sea, with the profile of Durban city in the background. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Durban Ushaka Beach by WESSA
Hibberdene Beach by Ray Nkonyeni Municipality
Margate Beach by WESSA
Ballito Clarke Bay Beach by WESSA
Brighton BLUFF Beaches ICC Day Cleanup by BLUFF Boardriders
Virginia Beach ICC Day Cleanup by Ocean8 and KZN Beach Cleanup

Find out more info on the International Coastal Cleanup from these network partner organisations: Two Oceans Aquarium; the Southern African Foundation for the Conservation of Coastal Birds (SANCCOB); Junior Chamber International (JCI) South Africa; Cape Town Environmental Education Trust (CTEET); the Sustainable Seas Trust (SST); Boaz Ocean Awareness Yacht; the Coastal Cleanup Convention; Nature’s Valley Trust; and White Shark Ventures.

To learn more about the various coastal cleanup events steered and supported by the WESSA Tourism Blue Flag beach stewards, Let’s Do It! Africa campaign and other participating partners, visit www.wessa.co.za or www.letsdoitworld.org.

This article, How to help our seas on International Coastal Cleanup Day, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Getaway.

Luangwa Valley teems with wildlife during the rainy months, proving that safaris aren’t just for the dry season.

Safari rules say the dry season is the best for spotting game, but if you visit Luangwa Valley in Zambia’s rainy months, you can explore by boat when the river is high, flowers are blooming, the wildlife teeming and there’s no one else around. David Rogers revels in the solitude of Zambia’s secret season.

Two of the endemics to Luangwa – Crawshay’s zebra and Thornicroft’s giraffe – pose on the Lupunga Spar, a great area for walking during rainy season. Photo by David Rogers

When it rains in eastern Zambia, it rains properly. Voluminous cumulonimbus clouds build tall above the landscape and unleash deafening cracks of thunder and flashes of lighting that explode across the wide African skies.

With up to a billion litres of water in a single cloud, the deluge is tremendous, filling tributaries and grassy plains that all drain into the Luangwa River. These rains transform it overnight from a dry stream into a torrent that sweeps for 1100 kilometres along the southern arm of the Great Rift Valley and into the Zambezi.

Also read: Riverwhacking the Zambezi

For most camp operators in South Luangwa National Park, the rains mean the end of the season. It’s not that it rains all the time (the storms are short-lived and there are plenty of sunny days) but the rains turn the hard, sun-baked black cotton soil into sticky mud, which makes it impossible to drive and sludgy underfoot. Most lodges and all the bush camps close at the end of the dry season (October).

Boating through the ebony grove near Kaingo is only possible during the rains. Photo by David Rogers.

However, two operators, Robin Pope Safaris and Norman Carr Safaris, celebrate the coming of the rains in style, launching boats so that guests can explore the flooded lagoons and waterways and reach some of the remotest areas of the park. Along the river, with its textbook meanders and oxbow lakes, there are only two bridges and landscapes have changed little since the first travellers set eyes on them in the 1800s.

For the past 12 years, I have led photographic trips each wet season. And here’s the kicker: what makes this season so good for photography is that it’s possible to shoot right through the day, as the clouds act as a diffuser of light, highlighting the green landscape at its lush best. The air is clear of dust, and the vivid outline of the Muchinga Escarpment forms a dramatic backdrop.

A lioness in Luangwa; the Luangwa River was thought to be 800km long, but John Coppinger, who canoed the river in 2012, measured it as 1100km. Photo by David Rogers.

It’s fascinating how much more relaxed animals are at this time of the year. The impala and puku are fit and strong and have the upper hand against the predators. And then there are the birds. Many of the little brown jobs become resplendent in colourful feathers for the breeding season, and migrants flock in from all over northern Africa and Europe.

From the gateway town of Mfuwe, its an hour’s drive to get to Nkwali Camp. It’s just what you would expect from an old-school safari outpost: the bar is built around an ebony tree and the open-sided thatched rooms all have spectacular views.

Anyone who has been here in the dry season, when the Luangwa is a mere trickle, will be astounded by the flooding river, which is 150 metres wide and four metres deep. It moves past the camp silently carrying its load of orange mud, fallen trees and foliage washed out from the channels. At night, we lie awake listening to the grunt of hippos and barking baboons, a sound that suggests big cats are on the prowl.

A female leopard against spectacular green grass near the Nkwali harbour. Photo by David Rogers.

Days at Nkwali begin with the rhythm of a drum at 5:15. As the skies start to reflect orange in the river, we head out on a drive. Guests are ferried by boat directly across the river to the vehicles, stored at a small natural harbour inside the park. We explore the network of all-weather roads that stretches for about 30 kilometres from Chichele Hills to beyond the oxbow lakes opposite Luangwa River Camp. Usually we will see our first lions, leopards and wild dogs as well as the endemic Thornicroft’s giraffe, the pale Cookson’s wildebeest, which occurs nowhere else, and the vividly striped Crawshay’s zebra.

After two or three days at Nkwali, we set off on our river journey, heading north-east. There are just five of us, which leaves space for the boatman, my guide Jacob Shawa, and the fundi, an armed scout from the Zambian Wildlife Authority who keeps us safe from dangerous game. After bumping around on a vehicle, it’s blissfully relaxing being on the water and watching spectacular scenes flashing by.

The river flows at nearly 10 kilometres per hour, and its power is evident from the scores of century-old trees that lie fallen in the water. Some of their relatives teeter on the banks, holding on by just a few exposed roots. As we proceed upriver, we are heading into an area that has been entirely cut off by the rains. The only other people we see are weather-beaten local fishermen in dugout canoes.

I advise photographers to use fast shutter speeds when in the boat. That way they can capture the rush of hippos heading into the water and the massive crocodiles that slip off the banks. We also follow the path of black-headed herons and fish eagles with our cameras, trying to capture them in flight.

This is the very best time for birding in South Luangwa, with summer migrants that include white-bellied Abdim’s storks, red-winged pratincoles and woodland kingfishers. Thanks to keen-eyed Jacob, we always spot lions on these river trips too; seeing their wide-eyed expressions, we realise they’ve probably not seen any humans for several months.

Zambia, South Luangwa, African fish eagle, Mwamba Channel Â© David Rogers

An African fish eagle glides along the Mwamba Channel. They have ‘waterproof’ wings, allowing them to fly well in rainy conditions. Photoby David Rogers.

At Nsefu Camp, we are greeted by the same friendly team of cooks, waiters and staff that have met me here year on year. Nsefu dates back to 1952 and was started by the late Norman Carr, ‘godfather’ of Zambian conservation. The rondavels are on one of the broadest sweeps of the Luangwa overlooking an elephant migration route. Sitting here beneath the thatch, you can almost sense the pipe-smoking explorers of yesteryear.

On this most recent visit, I am surprised to note that the simple dining room where we’d had such fantastic meals and conversations over the years was gone. Nsefu is not immune to the erosion of the river; who knows how many years it will be before the camp is lost forever? Fortunately, the bar is intact, the fridge is filled with cold Mosi beers, and a table has been set beneath the sprawling African ebony tree. We sit in the dappled shade and tuck into fresh salads, just-baked bread, cold meats and chilled white wine.

Guests don’t need to go far to enjoy the wilderness here. While in camp we’ve seen elephant, buffalo, lion, baboon and leopard. As the temperature cools in the afternoons, we gather for tea and delicious sticky cake before heading out. We potter up the Mwamba River, a narrow tributary of the Luangwa on the edge of the famous Lion Plain – always a magnet for animals. Cameras at the ready, we capture images of sunlit puku, zebras, giraffes and elephants posing perfectly against the dark grey clouds, which often start to build at this time of day.

It’s also possible to explore the Kaingo Forest, and driving our boat between the dark trunks of drowned African ebony trees is a haunting and awesome experience. At sunset, we park near a pod of hippos to enjoy our sundowners as they yawn away before emerging to graze at night.

I can’t go by without taking a picture of this baobab and this one was shot at sunset. It was a surprise when the elephants walked into view. Opposite Nkwali Camp, it’s also a good spot for seeing leopard, and herds of impala often come here to lick the salt deposits. Photo by David Rogers.

The highlight of a visit to Nsefu is the stork colony, one of the largest in Southern Africa. It’s an awesome spectacle to watch hundreds of these large birds fly in with nesting material. It’s sometimes possible to boat right into the colony, but mostly we make our way in on foot. If it has rained it can be a pretty muddy experience. I remember one woman who sank so deeply into the sludge that her shoe was lost forever. We always take it slowly, and on our last trip we were joined by an octogenarian – Jacob held his hand the whole way and carried a chair so he could take a breather.

After a few days at Nsefu, it’s hard not to leave a bit of our hearts behind, but as we boat downstream with the current, there is more excitement in store. We spend our last two nights at Luangwa River Camp, which has a pool, a wide deck and a taste of luxury after the remote experience upstream. It’s back into game-drive vehicles here to explore the extremely productive Mfuwe sector, including the Luangwa wafwa (wafwa is derived from ‘old’ or ‘dead’ and is also the local name for oxbow lakes).

On our last visit, we saw 31 wild dogs in this area. The sighting took place after some heavy rain. That’s the thing about Emerald Season – when it’s very wet, the predators tend to stick to the high ground, so their movements can be predicted. My movements are just as predictable – I have returned to this entrancing place, taken this journey into a forgotten part of Africa, in spring, summer, autumn and winter, more than 30 times. It’s my second home.

Plan your trip to Luangwa Valley

The Luangwa River during a wet March, with the floodwaters pushing back into lagoons and streams; an emperor moth – fantastic insects come out in summer.

Getting there

SAA flies between Joburg and Lusaka twice daily, from R2400. All safaris in the Luangwa Valley start and end in Mfuwe town. By road from Lusaka, it’s a 12-hour drive so most people fly in from Lusaka (one hour). Proflight has scheduled flights for R8022 per person return, but the Firecracker fares (booked 30 days ahead) cost around R4000 per person; children under 16 half-price. Proflight also flies from Durban to Lusaka, with a connection to Mfuwe.

When to go

For a boating safari, late January to early April is when the river is high enough to explore upstream and into flooded lagoons. June to October is the dry season, and high season. You can get good deals in November and early December at the lodges that are still open – incidentally, this is a great time, just before the rains, for predator action.

Need to know

South Africans do not need a visa to visit Zambia, and yellow fever certificates are no longer required. Do take anti-malarial precautions. There is no need to pack heavy rain gear – the vehicles have ponchos (and black plastic bags for covering cameras). Zambian wildlife guides are wonderful – even self-drivers should consider hiring one with an open vehicle (from R2670 a day). Park fees are R470 per person per day.

River trips

Only two operators offer river trips: Robin Pope Safaris’ seven-night River Journeys (January to March) include a combination of Nkwali, Nsefu and Luangwa River Camp. It costs R41140 per person sharing (single supplement R2180 a night), all inclusive. Check online for SADC specials that can be booked 30 days ahead.

A photographic journey with David Rogers on the same itinerary costs R55440 per person (no single supplement) for four travelling. photosandafrica.com

Norman Carr Safaris’ six-night River and Rainbow boat trip costs R46040 per person all inclusive (no single supplement). It starts near Mfuwe Gate at Chinzombo – architect-designed, this lodge brings a new standard of accommodation to Luangwa, including a private pool in each villa. The boat trip heads to Kakuli, a rustic bush camp inside the national park on a picturesque bend in the river. Guests can do walking safaris and visit the same areas explored by Robin Pope Safaris.

Stay here

The rarely seen Pel’s fishing owl. Photo by David Rogers.

These camps do not offer river trips, but are all open during Emerald Season.

Croc Valley Camp is near Mfuwe Gate and right on the river. It has a big pool, a bar and hammocks and a lively vibe. The best accommodation is the chalets on stilts and river tents. From R400 per person sharing self- catering or R1470 per person full board, camping R133 per person. crocvalley.com

Nkwali Camp, Robin Pope Safaris’ HQ, has just six chalets and offers an Emerald Season rate of R8030 per person sharing for three nights, all inclusive, excluding river trips. robinpopesafaris.net

Mfuwe Lodge, inside the national park, is in the most game-rich and accessible area. It has 18 chalets and offers walks and game drives. R4150 per person all inclusive. bushcampcompany.com

Chichele Lodge was built for former president Kenneth Kaunda at the highest point of the park. It has 10 Victorian suites with private terraces. From R5220 per person sharing, all inclusive (it gets cheaper the longer you stay); a third adult sharing pays R2540. sanctuaryretreats.com

South Luangwa National Park Map

Click here to see an enlarged version of the map to South Luangwa National Park.

This article, Luangwa Valley: the secret wildlife photography season in Zambia, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by David Rogers.

1. Free beer

2. Free walking tours

3. Free art

4. Free video games

5. Free cultural escapes

6. Free history lessons

7. Free flowers

8. Free views

9. Free films

10. Free markets

How to see Swaziland in a weekend

Day 1: Pretoria to Phophonyane

Day 2: Phophonyane to Malolotja

Day 3: Malolotja back to Pretoria

Directory

1. Leopards in Mumbai

2. Wild boar in Berlin

3. Penguins in Cape Town

4. Peregrines in London

5. Sika deer in Japan

6. Mountain lions in Los Angeles

7. Vervet monkeys in SA’s cities

8. Red foxes in British cities

9. Black bears in North America

10. Chacma baboons in Cape Town

Tips for swimming in the sea

Learn to swim here

Plan your ultimate trip to Botswana

1. See the best of Botswana in just 10 days

2. How to book campsites at Botswana’s national parks

3. A first-timer’s guide to the Kgalagadi

4. A first-timer’s guide to Maun

5. How to visit Vic Falls on a budget

Top 6 things do in Botswana

1. Skydive over the Makgadigadi Pans

2. Go tiger fishing

3. Do a photo safari on the river

4. Fly over the Okavango Delta

5. See hoards of elephants in the Chobe National Park

6. Listen to the roar of black-maned lion

The 5 best self-drive 4X4 routes in Botswana

1. Kubu to Kukonje Island

2. Baines Baobabs to the Ntwetwe Pan

3. Maun to Khwai’s Magotho campsite

4. Maun to Gcwihaba Caves

5. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park: Mabuasehube 4X4 trail

Need to know

How it works:

What we found about accommodation in and around Addo

Best budget option close to the park

1. Addo African Home

Best luxury lodge

2. Elephant House and The Stables

Best B&B bargain

3. Halstead Farm

Best for a large group

4. Aloe Tented Camp

Best value romantic break away

5. Umlambo River Cottages

Best for garden lovers & foodies

6. Woodall Country House

Best for families

7. Avoca River Cabins

Best all-around destination

8. Camp Figtree

Worth A Look

9. Happy Lands

10. Addo Dung Beetle

11. Broadlands

12. Rosedale B&B

13. Chrislin African Lodge

14. Hitgeheim

Three things to do close to Addo

Also read

1. Bushwa Private Game Lodge, Waterberg

2. Sycamore Avenue

3. Harkerville Treetop Chalet

4. Speekhout

5. Vindoux Treehouse Guest Farm & Spa

6. Kameeldoorn Tree House