There are seven day hikes in Golden Gate Highlands National Park ranging from 45 minutes to four hours and one incredible two-night trail.

Pick up a copy of our October issue to read our definitive guide to Golden Gate that uncovers four different ways to spend a weekend in the national park and includes all the info you need to tackle these awesome hikes.

Most of the hikes depart from Glen Reenen Rest Camp and there is one that starts behind the Golden Gate Hotel. All wind around or up the orange sandstone cliffs, dip into forested ravines and windswept grasslands.

Golden Gate is the perfect trip for visitors from Durban, Joburg or Bloem being three hours away from all city centres.

Day visitors are also welcome to visit the park and do these fantastic trails. The conservation fee costs just R44 per person.

Get your free Golden Gate trails map

In the October issue of Getaway you’ll find a variety of ways to spend a weekend in Golden Gate. To best appreciate this beautiful park, we recommend exploring it on foot. Here’s our map to all the hikes in Golden Gate.

Download here

See more in October issue of Getaway magazine.

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The best guide to weekending in Golden Gate; how to go shark diving (without a cage); exploring the high peaks of the Rwenzoris and heritage homestays with delicious food in Kerala.

Long to unplug and remember the fullness of time? Baardskeerdersbos is where the community takes their lead from nature, inspired by the landscape and a collaborative spirit.

Lokal at sunset and a beautiful dish by Suzi Holtzhausen consisting of freshwater trout, hake cakes and sun- and air-dried vine and pine fruit inspired by artist Liz van den Berg. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

The first dish chef Suzi Holtzhausen ever cooked for me was fillet with smoked mussels and orange granita. I sat down a sceptic (I’m not usually keen on fruit ice with my roast beef) and left a fan, admiring her bold moves. Since then Brandon and I have returned to Paternoster to eat with her whenever possible, whether at her restaurants or her home. On our latest visit, it was barely breakfast when Suzi nudged me out of my culinary comfort zone. That’s also when she revealed she’d been spending more time in Baardskeerdersbos.

Baardskeerders, or B’Bos as it’s fondly referred to, is an aspiring town with a name linked in legend to the Solifugae spider-scorpion or baardskeerder. It’s positioned between Gansbaai and Elim in the Overberg, with easy access to Pearly Beach and Stanford, and until quite recently the 100-odd residents had been left to their own devices because the road there was never tarred. Now with the roadwork complete, it’s being touted as the alternative route to Cape Agulhas.

Its obscurity attracted enough artists over the past decade to support a biannual art route. One of them, a sculptor and landscape painter called Niël Jonker, teaches artisan bread baking. And Suzi travels to cook at a pop-up venue called Lokal, finding her inspiration from what the land provides. So we followed her to the first Art Route of 2017, and she became our point of connection to the community of retiring creatives who have chosen to call Baardskeerdersbos home.

An exterior view of Hoopoe House and the surrounding fynbos. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

We knew to find Suzi in the kitchen at Lokal, a magical spot built by her friends Stanley and Lainy Carpenter, and Lainy’s parents Helena and Albert, maker of B’Bos Wines. Together they are the Lokal ‘family’. The bare-brick façade sits demurely behind an established organic garden, complete with raspberry canes. It’s on the left when entering on the main road and opposite Marietjie’s Pub & Grill, where brandy and Coke at a friendly price draws bachelor parties and Sunday bikers fall upon breakfast platters.

In the spirit of collaboration that has developed around Lokal, we arrived bearing pomegranates harvested from our tree at home. The seeds would be strewn over floating islands of torched meringue hiding poached tamarillos and crowned with spun sugar. It represented the flaming, hyperreal heart of a pincushion protea as photographed by Kali van der Merwe and titled ‘Symphony in Late Summer’ – one of the works by an exhibiting artist that Suzi was interpreting for the weekend’s menu.

We were privy to the calm activity of the build-up, the hours of unseen work spent harvesting and processing. It takes a village to raise the ingredients for a feast. Stanley was stationed at a griddle pan, methodically cooking off tacos made from ears of red corn. Olives from nearby farm Die Werf had been brined, cured, pitted and air-dried. Bone broth simmering in a cast-iron pot would be poured over pressed brassica leaves that unfolded in the hot beef tea inspired by Niël’s bronze artwork ‘Kopbeen’.

Shaping loaves in Niel Jonker’s bakehouse; Students make their own pizzas for lunch on the first day of Niel’s bread workshop. Photos by Brandon de Kock.

Suzi glanced at her notes, which were pegged to a length of twine strung across the high-ceilinged space, like a conductor referencing sheet music. Since she isn’t tied to an establishment of her own right now, this is where she explores her creativity, conceptualizing a completely new menu for each event. Conveniently, Lokal backs onto Niël’s house, separated only by what locals call ‘the forest’, so Suzi took a break to lead us there.

We wended our way through the vegetable patch, picking basil as we went because we’d been volunteered to make our Napoletana sauce for lunchtime pizza bases. We would share our skills; another student, his home-brewed bottle of mead. It was Suzi’s idea, I’m sure, and explained the brown paper bag filled with end-of-season tomatoes nestling in the crook of her elbow. We followed her through rustling trees, past a sizeable sculpture in the shape of a sleeping woman and up the steps to Niël’s stoep – where a chopping board and three onions lay waiting.

In this open-air classroom the wood-fired oven, three by two metres, is a feature. Niël spent time in California building bread ovens with a master on the subject, Alan Scott, and a photograph of the two of them (from a time when we still developed rolls of film) hangs slightly askew on the bakehouse wall. It depicts a much younger Niël and a man with white hair and beard. They are both laughing. ‘That’s where I learnt there is another way of contributing rather than driving and buying and wrapping in plastic. Baking bread is a philosophy,’ explains Niël.

He covers technical aspects such as shaping and calculating the baker’s percentage, but if Niël thinks the wholemeal loaves need more resting time, he’ll light the flame under a wellworn, lime-green whistling kettle and offer tea. ‘The practice of making bread helps us deal with our own impatience,’ he says calmly. It’s a good challenge for Type A’s used to optimising every minute: surrendering to the peace on that stoep shaded by vine leaves, with Niël’s bronze creatures gracing the communal table and no sounds other than the wind in the poplars and a resident robin. More than bread baking, the lesson was about allowing nature to take the lead.

Fresh bread and butter at Niel Jonker’s bread workshop; Loaves resting. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

The gentle souls making up this community of relative newcomers seem to have a heightened awareness of the fragile thread connecting us to the natural world. Many make conscious choices about alternative energy, growing their own food or homeschooling their children. A more thoughtful approach overrides the ways society conditions us to conform. Consumption is not currency here. Given Suzi’s commitment to provenance, her love of art and playful style which challenges convention on the plate, her affinity to B’Bos makes sense.

On the way, we stayed first at Farm 215 where we were surrounded by a sea of fynbos. The views stretched across a dam to neighbouring Lomond Wine Estate. Here, single-vineyard wines are named after species in the floral kingdom and tell the story of terroir. The farm has 21 pockets of soil, each with its own identity – ‘Like a patchwork quilt,’ says founder and viticulturist Wayne Gabb. The Pincushion and Sugarbush vineyards are side by side, and the grapes vinified in exactly the same way, but in character these two Sauvignon Blancs are starkly different.

At our second lodging, Hoopoe House, fynbos is visible from every window and Cape sugarbirds dunk their heads into proteas with abandon. ‘Did you see the stars last night?’ enthused Doug Hey, our host at Hoopoe, as we forged a path through his patch of indigenous vegetation. ‘They were hanging like chandeliers!’ His reference to the dazzling celestial display is fitting. He and his wife Dezzie have invested in a plot neighbouring Caroline Rillema, owner of Caroline’s Fine Wine Cellar, who produces a Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon blend named Celestina.

Doug and Dezzie’s love of good food shows in the attention to detail at their neat-as-a-pin, sandbag-built accommodation. There are sharp knives (hallelujah!), a herb chopper fashioned from a railway sleeper and a braai with adjustable levels designed by Doug (an engineer by profession). Nothing ever seems too much trouble for this cheerful couple. When walking with Doug, he made a strategic stop where he’d gone ahead and tied a cup to a branch for drinking from the stream. Having lived in the area for 16 years, the couple are only too happy to share their knowledge.

It feels like Baardskeerdersbos is poised for another transition. Some of those who were part of the first wave of new arrivals have put their properties on the market: Hoopoe House, Farm 215 and the home of artist Joshua Miles, who has an enviable fruit orchard and designed the Lokal aprons with a lemon-press block print. But they are not leaving. Doug and Dezzie are planning a move ‘into town’, if you can call it that, about six kilometres away. Maarten Groos (Farm 215) has already made that move, and Joshua has bought a piece of land next door to his original house.

Right now the only place you can find a flat white in B’Bos is from a mobile van that shows up at the Saturday boeremark, where an older generation who were born into a life here sell crocheted baby booties and curried tripe. This is still a dorp where, if it’s late and you’re lucky, someone might pull out a 1,5-litre Coke bottle and deem you worthy of sampling their homemade witblitz. It will be interesting to see how the next phase unfolds, but here’s hoping whoever arrives next treads carefully – and leaves their espresso machine at home.

Plan your trip to Baardskeerdersbos

Looking onto Hoopoe House from a hillside on the Tierfontein Conservancy Farm 51 where it’s situated. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Getting there

Take the N2 from Cape Town, head to Hermanus on the R43 and continue to Gansbaai. Just outside town, take the turn-off left to Baardskeerdersbos (20km). It’s best to take a vehicle that can handle dirt roads.

Stay here

Hoopoe House is ‘home-away-from home’ and made for a family or close group of friends who love to cook and eat. For winter there’s a fireplace in the lounge and a Dover stove in the kitchen. Downstairs is an en-suite master bedroom, with two bedrooms upstairs in an open plan loft set-up, one of which is en-suite (sans door). R1500 per night (sleeps six).

Farm 215’s fynbos suites provide peace, seclusion and total immersion in nature. In summer, be sure to watch the sunset at the pool. It is not self-catering so meals are taken at the on-site restaurant. Suite from R1550 per person sharing B&B (sleeps two).

Tierfontein Rondawel is artist Liz van den Berg’s self-catering hideaway for two on the edge of a lily pond on a fynbos farm. R800 per night.

Do this

For those without a wood-fired oven at home, Niël Jonker teaches how to make bread in a cast-iron pot. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Eat an imaginative lunch prepared by Suzi Holtzhausen at pop-up venue Lokal in B’Bos. From R425 per person for four to five courses. Sign up for the newsletter to find out about upcoming dates. lokal-bbos.co.za (If Lokal is not open, there’s Marietjie’s Pub & Grill for a meal in town, 0724525210.)

Bake bread with Niël Jonker on his stoep. For the latest details, see nieljonker.co.za

Taste wine at Lomond Wine Estate – in December, ask to do this under the milkwoods. The Estate Range tasting (R30 pp) comprises five wines; the Single Vineyard tasting (R35 pp) includes Sugarbush, Pincushion, Snowbush, Conebush and Cats Tail.

Do the Baardskeerdersbos Art Route. Local artists open their homes for a weekend, and guest artists from across SA and internationally come to exhibit too. It happens twice a year, in autumn (late March) and spring.

Note that Suzi will be away in the USA during this Art Route, learning new smoking, wood oven and pit-cooking techniques).

This story first appeared in the July 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our July issue features the best places to stay in the Midlands, budget family breaks in Durban, and the best (and mostly free) things you have to do in New York. 

baardskeerdersbosartroute.co.za

Long, slow cooking works wonders on less expensive cuts of meat, which makes potjiekos an economical, one-pot way of feeding the gang in the great outdoors. Here are two great recipes and a bunch of brilliant tips.

Also read: 10 of the best potjie tips from Getaway readers.

Potjiekos is an art, not a science

Perfecting it requires practice, plenty of time and constant attention. The cast-iron pot retains heat brilliantly and the art of using that to your advantage is in achieving a sustained simmer, not lurching between a rapid boil (which toughens meat) and the heat dying out completely. The pot must be at a happy bubble, sometimes described as a ‘prrrt-ing’ sound. If it’s quiet, nothing is happening inside. Listen closely at all times. Resist the temptation to lift the lid too often, and to stir the stew. Preheat the pot over the coals and don’t be afraid to take it off the heat to maintain control and avoid burning, especially between browning meat and cooking onions, and when layering.

The pot

The No. 3 is a family-sized pot that will feed four to six. Make sure the lid seals properly. This is important for keeping steam in the pot, which forms condensation and creates liquid.

The fire

Use a hard wood, to create long-burning coals.

• Have a separate fire going to replenish coals.
• Regulate heat by moving coals closer to or further away from the pot.
• Arrange coals around the belly of the pot rather than directly underneath it.

Top potjie cooking tips

Browning the meat is vital for creating flavour. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

• Add very little liquid to start as more will be created during cooking – often only visible at the end.
• When adding liquid, always heat it first and pour it slowly down the side of the pot. Adding cold liquid to a hot pot can cause cracking.
• Avoid adding large quantities of tomatoes, vinegar, lemon juice or wine as the acidity reacts with the cast iron. Rather use water or stock.
• When layering ingredients, the pot should only be two-thirds full to allow room for the steam.
• Keep the lid on – lifting it too often will bring down the temperature (lengthening cooking time) and cause valuable steam to evaporate.
• When you do lift the lid, first tilt it so all the collected condensation runs back into the pot.
• Stir the potjie only just before serving. And do this gently with a wooden (not metal) spoon.

The basic ingredients

Potjiekos originated with slow-cooking cuts of mutton, ox or venison. Beef shin, oxtail and lamb knuckles and shank shine in a potjie.
• Cater for about 300g meat per person, including bone.
• Browning is vital for creating avour. Have the meat at room temperature and patted dry with paper towel to encourage a good sear.
• Layer a potjie with meat at the bottom and then add the vegetables, from slowest cooking to quickest cooking on top.
• Adding potatoes helps thicken the juices.

Butternut bredie potjie

Feeds 6 in a No. 3 potjie pot

As with any stew, if it burns it can’t be salvaged. You’ll have to start again. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Ingredients

2T mutton fat or beef lard or vegetable oil
1,5kg beef shin or stewing lamb/beef
2 large onions, chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 thumb-sized piece of ginger, finely grated
700g butternut, peeled and chopped
500g potatoes, peeled and chopped
300g sweet potatoes, peeled and chopped
1 small red chilli
4 cardamom pods
1 stick cinnamon
1 bayleaf
1 strip (about the length of your thumb) fresh orange peel
sea salt and black pepper
1⁄4 cup Van der Hum liqueur or sweet wine
1⁄2 cup boiling water or beef stock
cooked white rice, for serving

Method

1. Place the pot over coals to heat through. Drop some fat in – when it sizzles the pot is hot enough. Melt all the fat in the pot and brown the meat in batches.
2. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the meat, add the onions (they will start cooking in the residual heat) and stir constantly. Replace the lid. Rearrange the coals for low-heat cooking and place the pot back over the coals.
3. Cook the onions, stirring constantly, until nicely softened and reduced in mass. Add the garlic and ginger for the last minute or two and cook, stirring.
4. Remove the pot from the coals. Remove the onions. Layer the meat at the bottom of the pot with the butternut, potato and sweet potato on top.
5. Cut a slit into one side of the chilli. Place the cardamom pods on a board and press down on them with the face of a knife to crack them. Add both to the pot along with the other aromatics: cinnamon, bay leaf and orange peel. Add a pinch or two of salt and a generous grinding of black pepper. Then put the onions back in.
6. Mix the Van der Hum into the water or stock and add to the pot. Put the lid on and place the pot over the coals, arranging a few coals around the base of the potjie.
7. After 30 minutes, lift the lid and check there is steam rising in the pot and that it is simmering. Cook for 2 – 3 hours, keeping an ear to the pot and adding or removing coals to keep the potjie cooking at the same heat and speed.
8. Once the potjie is done, gently bring the meat up through the vegetables to incorporate all the ingredients. Serve.

Oxtail potjie

Feeds 4 in a No. 2 potjie pot

Gooey and delicious slow-cooked oxtail: just three main ingredients and a bunch of flavourings. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

Ingredients

125g streaky bacon, chopped
700g – 800g oxtail
Sea salt
2 onions, chopped
2 sticks celery, chopped
2 cloves garlic, nely chopped
2T tomato paste
2 cloves
2 bay leaves
1⁄2t white pepper
1 cup hot beef stock
6 small carrots, peeled and sliced
mashed potato, for serving

Method

1. Place the pot over coals to heat through. Add the bacon and cook, stirring constantly, until fat has rendered and bacon is golden. Remove to a plate lined with paper towel.
2. Season the meat with salt, then brown the oxtail in the bacon fat.
3. Remove the pot from the heat. Remove the oxtail, add the onions and celery (they will start cooking in the residual heat) and stir constantly.
4. Rearrange the coals for low-heat cooking and place the pot back over the coals. Cook the onions and celery, stirring constantly, until nicely softened and reduced in mass.
5. Add the garlic for the last minute or two and cook, stirring. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until the mixture is brick red.
6. Remove the pot from the coals. Remove the onion mixture and layer the oxtail at the bottom. Then add the onion mixture back in, plus the cloves, bay leaves and white pepper. Add the stock.
7. Put the lid on, place the pot over the coals and arrange a few coals around the base of the potjie. After 30 minutes lift the lid and check there is steam rising in the pot and that it is simmering.
8. Cook for 3 – 4 hours, keeping an ear to the potjie and adding or removing coals to keep it cooking at the same heat and speed.
9. Add the carrots for the last 45 minutes of cooking. Give it a quick stir and serve.

What wine goes with a potjie?

There are two things to look for in a great potjie wine: something to pair with whatever’s in the pot, and something to drink all afternoon waiting for the meat to melt. In general, the soft and unctuous things that come out of cast-iron Dutch ovens love a soft wine, and easy-drinking Merlot will always do the job. On the other hand, more exotic concoctions and badass bredies respond better to big bold blends and wines with strong character. Start here…

For green cred

Feel-good vino doesn’t get much better than Woolies Organic Merlot (R45), specially bottled for the retailer by the award-winning kings of green wine, Stellar Winery. It’s super-quaffable, with a bit of cherry-chocolate, and has just the right level of smoothness and intensity to dance with silky stews.

Also read: What is ‘green’ wine?

The old-school choice

Historic Stellenbosch farm Hartenberg has been perfecting grape juice for 300 years – and the Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2014 (with lots of other little bits) is a wonderful example of how good they are at it. A Classic Wine Trophy gold medallist, this red blend has spicy, savoury notes that make it perfect for a potjie with chilli, spices and other earthy aromatics in the mix. R82 a pop and they deliver all over the country.

A great-value rarity

For dark and gooey oxtail, the perfect partner is an Italian stallion called Nebbiolo. It’s rare and pricey in South Africa, but the community-minded co-op of Du Toitskloof (it employs 1600 workers and their families bene t from all sorts of upliftment programmes) comes to the rescue with a Nebbiolo 2013. It’s full of violets and undergrowth, but big in character after waiting about 10 months in oak before being allowed out to play. Order direct for R50.

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

Pniel is a small town in the Cape Winelands known by few. Its locals believe it’s something special. I went to find out why.

The insider: Retired teacher Matthew Cyster is now the chairman of the Pniel Heritage and Cultural Trust. He’s spent 72 years in Pniel and is passionate about the future of the village.

The sun sets over the Dwarsrivier Valley. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

To begin, let me tell you where Pniel is: it’s that little village on the R310 between Stellenbosch and Franschhoek. Blink and you’ll miss it. But had you kept your eyes open, you might have seen it and wondered: what is this place? Who lives here? And how, exactly, do you pronounce Pniel? (It’s Pin-yel, like Israel, and it means ‘face of God’).

Pniel is a delightful little place. The houses have no fences; unguarded laundry flaps in the wind. Photographer Teagan Cunniffe and I are here to meet Matthew Cyster, who has lived here his whole life. He’s 72 and tells me he isn’t the oldest in the village; there’s a woman who beats him by more than a decade – Rebecca Jafta is 88. She has also lived in Pniel her whole life.

‘I was born here in 1945, raised here and will probably die here,’ says Cyster. ‘It’s been an amazing journey.’ As a boy, he and his friends would go exploring in the mountains and to the Dwarsrivier (Dwars River) to pick peaches and Santa Rosa plums – the town was surrounded by orchards then, many now replaced by vineyards. Later, he was involved in activism and freedom fighting at Bellville College (now the University of the Western Cape).

‘It was confusing for my young mind. I would always say to my friends, if any of us from Pniel become anything in life, it will be because of the discipline and love we received growing up here.’

The largest building in town, Pniel Congregational Church, is dwarfed by the Simonsberg behind it. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

His passion for and pride in Pniel is evident. As headmaster of the local primary school, he was able to guide a new generation of youngsters. He is retired but his work is now the town he loves. ‘I’ve been involved in the storytelling of the heritage and culture at the Pniel Museum.’ He and his colleagues have written a book called Pniel en Sy Mense. The older generation is determined to empower the youth. They and their forefathers have always held education in the highest regard.

‘In the past few decades, women could pursue occupations. I have respect for our women in Pniel, the generation who raised us and sacrificed so much for us to be where we are today,’ he says. ‘You can’t find a better place to raise children than here. Neighbours become family, the whole community is family.’

I cross the road towards the church and see an elderly woman pick up a piece of paper from the ground. This explains why it looks so well kept. The Pniel Congregational Church is at the core of the village, and religion still plays a major role in the lives of many locals. Pniel was originally established as a mission station in 1834 for recently freed slaves. All the properties in the village were owned by the church and houses were passed down in families, not sold to outsiders. In the past, Pniel had its own management board, they collected their own taxes and looked after their own roads and water system.

Antiques displayed in the Pniel Museum, which also documents the village’s proud sporting history. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

Sport also plays a huge role in the community. The Pniel Sports Ground (next to the primary school) is where most of the action takes place: pigeon racing, karate, pétanque, cricket, netball and rugby. Especially rugby. They started playing the game here more than 100 years ago, back in 1902, and even the women of  the town play. The local team is called the Pniel Villagers. They’ve won several trophies, and the town has produced a number of national sporting greats – rugby stars Trevor Adams and Ivor Myburgh back in the 1960s; Henry Davids, who plays for the Titans, and Henry Williams, currently coaching the Boland cricket team. The Pniel Museum has all the memorabilia won on display.

Petanque is loved and played by many in the village. Henry Lackay, pictured here is the chairman of the Petanque Club. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

After a quick game of pétanque, we head off to Kylemore, a two-minute drive from Pniel, for a meal at Aunty Siena’s house. It’s wonderful to be in her home – a place filled with love and warmth, and beautifully decorated. She serves us delicious chicken curry and rice; for dessert, her koeksisters and vetkoek leave me wanting more.

It’s the last day. The sun is shining and the locals, young and old, greet happily from their homes as we drive up Kloof Street. The Simonsberg creates the perfect backdrop, and Brandon Robyn, who works on a nearby fruit farm, is taking us for a hike up the mountain. We start just by the reservoir. He tells us about how long ago in 1743 farm labourers went in search of silver deposits on the mountain, and in the process dug up caves. Sadly, no treasure was found.

Aunty Siena’s restaurant serves South African classics, delicious Malay-style koeksisters. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

At the top we are able to survey the entire beautiful valley, with its four side- by-side villages – Pniel, Kylemore, Johannesdal and Lanquedoc. We’re lucky enough to be up here to catch flocks of racing pigeons swooping past on a practise flight. Matthew had told us he hoped the village could be preserved for the next generation to experience its scenic surroundings, culture and unity.

I think about how these ‘Pnielers’ have made us feel included and welcome; their hearts and doors open. There’s a sense of freedom in the village, not only for those who live here but the ‘inkommers’ (visitors) too. Pniel has great tourism potential – I hope the Street Art Competition will create interest in this sincere town. It’s a sleeping beauty just waiting to be woken.

Look out for…

Camberley Wine Estate; Ouma Rebecca Jafta dressed smartly for church- the elderly residents of Pniel have their own service on the first Wednesday of the month, after which they have soup and socialise. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The Street Art Competition is the first of its kind in the Dwarsrivier Valley. The focus will be on graffiti, and street art tours will be conducted after the competition. The aim is to get the youth excited about and involved in the future of tourism here.

The Pumpkin Festival takes place during harvest time, around March. It features giant pumpkin weigh-ins and carving contests, live music, local crafts and food.

The Dwarsrivier Tourism Mobile App (free on Android and iOS) gives the latest events and news from the village.

Where do the locals go?

Doreen Carolissen, marketing manager of Dwarsrivier Tourism
‘My favourite place in the valley is Solms-Delta wine estate. Every year they host the ATKV Oesfees festival. I enjoy relaxing there with my family.’

Brandon Robyn, logistics manager at Rhodes Fruit Farm
‘My daughter and I love going hiking on the Simonsberg Mountain. We go up to the Silvermine caves. We love to be in nature.’

Malcolm Johnson, community councillor
‘I just enjoy taking casual strolls in Pniel village.’

Proteas are sold on the Helshoogte Pass by a local vendor for R60 a bunch; Tea and scones from Hillcrest Berry Orchards. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Plan your trip to Pniel

Getting there

From Cape Town, take the N2 then Exit 33 to Stellenbosch. Turn right onto Polkadraai Road to continue on the R310. After 13 kilometres you will arrive in Pniel. Don’t blink!

Good to know

Carry cash as most places don’t accept cards.

Stay here

Lumley’s Place has four en-suite rooms with individual names and themes. The B&B has beautiful mountain views, a lawn area and Wi-Fi. R500 per person B&B.

Hillcrest Berry Orchards has two neat, spacious cottages tucked away at the bottom of the garden, sharing a pool. They sleep up to five, are equipped for self-catering and linen is provided. From R480 per person sharing (minimum two-night stay).

Do this

Locals grow and sell lemons at markets in Cape Town and Stellenbosch; Mint Cabernet Sauvignon from Thelema Mountain Vineyards. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Taste the Mint Cabernet Sauvignon at Thelema Mountain Vineyards. Take  the scenic Helshoogte Pass (R310 from Stellenbosch). Other wine farms close by include Tokara, Zorgvliet and Bartinney. Tastings at Thelema are weekdays 9:00 – 17:00 and Saturday 10:00 – 15:00. R50 per person for six wines. Tel 0218851924.

Visit Pniel Congregational Church. There is only one church building in Pniel (built in 1843) shared by different denominations. Helshoogte Road. Tel 0218852645.

Learn about the town’s history at the Pniel Museum. It’s housed in the original Huguenot farmhouse from the 1700s, and filled with ordinary household items that show how the locals used to live. Entrance is free. Helshoogte Road. Tel 0218852645.

Take a stroll or bike ride through the village. It’s quaint and an easy walk or cycle. Bicycles can be hired for R200 per person from Faith4U Tours. 44 Rooi Street. Tel 0787089427.

Hike up to the Silvermine cave on the Simonsberg Mountain, where farm labourers went in search of riches, with Brandon Robyn as your guide. The hike is free but a tip is welcome. If you’re brave enough, you can go into the cave. Tel 0795610370.

Buy proteas from Joe Japhta, the vendor on the Helshoogte Pass. From R60 for a bunch of gorgeous king proteas.

Shop at Imbali Crafters (based at the high school) in Kylemore, six kilometres from Pniel. The non-profit organisation supports job creation in the community by teaching skills such as sewing, beadwork and quilt making. Tel 0218851887.

Play pétanque (also known as boules) with the famous Pniel pétanque team champions at the 2016 Franschhoek Bastille Festival champions. From R50 per person. Call David Williams to arrange a game. Tel 0787089427.

Eat here

Lunch like a local at Aunty Siena’s. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Beker en Bord Tee Tuin Enjoy wholesome and authentic South African food cooked by Aunty Siena. A three-course meals costs R120 per person. 39 School Street. Tel 0789129604.

Hillcrest Berry Orchards is a good spot for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea. Scones and muffins are freshly baked and there’s a choice of jams – including blackcurrant, raspberry, Cape fig and walnut and four red berries (buy some to take home). Tea and scones from R45. Four kilometres from Pniel on the R310. Tel 0218851629.

The Werf Restaurant at Boschendal serves ethical, sustainably grown farm-to-table dishes. Starters from R80, mains from R180. It’s about three minutes’ drive from Pniel. Booking essential. Helshoogte Pass. Tel 0218704272.

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

At first glance, it might seem like nothing much happens here. But the open and vast landscape – and its characters – are full of life. Here are some of our favourite escapes between the West Coast and Augrabies Falls.

View of the Orange River from the Kalahari River and Safari Company. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

‘The Kalahari is so vast that if you fight with your wife and she left, you could watch her walking away for three weeks,’ says Danie van Zyl of Keimoes. ‘Wake up each day to her turning into a speck of dust on the landscape.’

This is true. The openness of the sky makes big rocky mountains appear insignificant. Here, the sky steals the show with lots of quiver trees that seem to appear out of nowhere, adding texture and character to the landscape. The sighting of a body of water seems magical, a miracle. The people who live here share this unique beauty with visitors wholeheartedly. Their generosity, we discovered, is as big as the place they live in.

What is Open Africa?

We travelled with Deon Pienaar, programme developer of Open Africa. By helping establish and promote various routes in remote places, this NGO offers locals the tools and know-how to enhance their tourism hospitality. Our story crosses three routes: the Namaqua Coastal Route, Kokerboom Food & Wine Route and Kalahari Red Dune Route. ‘We want people to play a role in building their own communities without imposing our way of doing things on them,’ says Deon. openafrica.org

1. Art and cocktails in Hondeklipbaai

Sundowners at Dop en Kreef on the beach; the outdoor art gallery – look closer at Villain’s pointillist paintings, they’re just dots. Photos by Melanie Van Zyl.

Villain and Mads’ Studio is the first place we came across in Hondeklipbaai – an indoor/outdoor gallery of landscape paintings. Villain (aka Deon Venter) is open and generous with his artistic space, and enthusiastic about visitors – we even toured his home, past the burnt curry in the kitchen, to see the painting hanging above his bed. Unapologetic about his space, his art and past, Villain started painting when he was in jail and says it helped him stay sane.

After a quirky encounter with Villain, we went next door to The Shack, run by Sunnette and Willem de Waal, for coffee and cheesecake. Willem’s a butcher and baker with a calm, comfortable demeanour about him, but steadfast in his evangelism of the superiority of German bread and meat, in which he specialises. After stocking up at The Shack, we popped in at K9 Pottery Studio down the road. It’s obvious this remote little village is brimming with creativity. After watching the activity at the harbour, we settled in for cocktails at Dop en Kreef (0276923095) – a beach bar with what must be some of the best sea views in South Africa – and a seafood feast at Die Rooi Spinnekop (R200 per person). Tel 0764308300, hondeklip.co.za

Stay here: Die Baai se Bek, a three bedroom house, is near the beach and an easy walk to the lighthouse. From R700 for two. 0722192452, travelground.com

2. Northern Cape Wines at Bezalel Estate

Lunch at Bezalel Wines; We slept at the lovely Vergelegen Guesthouse. Photos by Melanie Van Zyl.

Martiens Bezuidenhout from Bezalel Wines reckons that grapes grown in desert conditions are ideal because they’re much more resilient than the ‘fickle and spoilt grapes’ of the Cape Winelands. Here, near Keimoes, he’s experimental in his approach, bending the rules and producing unconventional blends of grape varietals and brandies in small batches – and you can only get them here in the Northern Cape.

He’s lately been trying his hand at beer and whisky, too. We chilled in the garden on this beautiful estate, enjoying the relaxed vibe and eating delicious food – the lunch was decent, light portions, leaving enough space for dessert. Wine and brandy tasting R60 per person, lunch from R70. Tel 0544911141, bezalel.co.za

Stay here: Vergelegen Guesthouse is a convenient and pretty luxe stay if you want to explore the Orange River and surrounding areas of Kakamas and Keimoes. We had delicious springbok carpaccio at its restaurant. Double room R880. augrabiesfalls.co.za

3. Smell the fynbos at Naries Namakwa Retreat

The cottages at Naries Namakwa Retreat are surrounded by fynbos. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

Simeon Bok took a handful of wild thyme and crushed it in his hands, then held them open to my nose. This is the plant responsible for the region’s tasty lamb, he said. Simeon completed an internship programme with Open Africa before finding a job here at the lodge, sharing the rugged Namaqua beauty of the 6000-hectare reserve on game drives and guided walks. We came across wild thyme, the Bushman Candle, tiny confetti plants, the Bushman rabbit, the rabbit springy and succulent species.

The Kalahari boasts over 3000 animal species and over 2000 of them are small succulent species which Simeon pointed out. Go for one of their hikes, guided or unguided – the hikes lead to the vintage point that make this landscape look like a dragon’s playground.

Stay here: Naries Namakwa Retreat, nestled between mountains and open sky, has luxurious mountain suites (from R3340 DBB), self-catering cottages (from R1765 for four) and B&B rooms (from R2120 for two). The on-site fine-dining restaurant serves possibly the best lamb shank you’ll ever taste. naries.co.za

4. Local food and perfect pools at Riemvasmaak

The hot springs in Riemvasmaak where the canyon overlooking the pools opens up into the shape of the African continent; Mince curry fat koek at Berg en Dal Koffie en Kuierkos. Photos by Melanie Van Zyl.

Immersed in one of the springs here, zenned out by the deafening silence in the background (interrupted occasionally by the echo of starlings), you look up and see the surrounding canyons out the corner of your eye and birds flying across the wide, wide blue Kalahari sky. From the main pool, a ‘map of Africa’ takes shape in a gap between the rocks. These hot springs are an oasis reached via a scenic mountain road from the small settlement of Riemvasmaak. It has an interesting story.

On our way here we’d stopped at Berg en Dal Koffie en Kuierkos (0786162807), where owner Norbert Coetzee told us about how local families were evicted from this land during apartheid and relocated to Namibia and the Eastern Cape. Norbert was seven years old at the time. When Nelson Mandela became president, Riemvasmaak was the first community to return to their land. Norbert now runs his restaurant here, specialising in South African favourites; we had delicious curry mince vetkoek (R15) but he can arrange a truly local lunch such as a ‘smiley’ (sheep head). He also does guided walks of the village, and there is a day hiking trail at the pools. Entry to the hot springs R25 per person. Tel 0733838812.

Stay here: There are community-run guest cabins here (R525 for a four-sleeper, 0838737715 or 0783145565) you can also stay at Kalahari River & Safari Company, an hour away.

Also read: The Insider’s Guide to Kakamas.

5. Paddle down the Orange River

It’s not always about frenetic rafting – Welcome takes a slow paddle down the Orange River courtesy of the Kalahari River and Safari Company. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

Seeing the beauty and abundance of the Orange River amid the dryness of the landscape made my heart swell in excitement at the thought of being on that water. After getting onto the rafting boats, we calmly flowed along with minimal paddling. When we reached a spot where the water was shallow, we got out the boat and carried on floating downriver in our life jackets. Pure bliss. An easy afternoon Nature Paddle costs R200 per person. The company is owned by Danie van Zyl, who lives on prime riverside real estate near Kakamas. He and his wife Philippa take pride in their spot being family friendly. Both are so attentive towards guests we felt instantly at home.

Danie’s that guy you need to show you around; he’s funny, knows the secret spots and is happy to share the hidden treasures of places such as Keimoes, Riemvasmaak and Kakamas – home of Die Pienk Padstal, which is a great place to stop for coffee and to buy the famous dried fruit of this region (if you’re in luck, there may be dried kiwi fruit, 0833819272). Guests who stay at Danie’s camp can also go on an early game drive for morning coffee at the river viewpoint, plus there’s fishing, mountain biking, whitewater rafting and kayaking.

Stay here: There are campsites (R350 for four people) and various chalets and tents along the river (from R594 for two in a river tent). kalahaririverandsafari.co.za

6. The rush of Augrabies Falls

Hear the ‘place of great noise’ (the Khoi called it this) from the viewing deck at Augrabies Falls National Park; Quiver trees dart the landscape in the Kalahari.

You’ll find yourself hypnotised by the forceful and endless movement of gushing water. Standing at the main viewpoint, witnessing the Orange River in this form is an entirely different experience. The sight (and sound) of the mighty river dropping down the cliffs at Augrabies Falls is worth experiencing at least once in your lifetime. But after you’ve done that, drive downriver and witness the calmness of the river in the stunning Oranjekom Gorge.

This part of the park, which looks like a location straight out of Westworld, is not advertised so many people just see the falls and leave without seeing the entire spectrum of the Orange River. Driving between the various viewpoints, we spotted springbok and giraffe along the way (the night drives are highly recommended to spot specials such at bat-eared foxes). Daily conservation fee R44 per person. sanparks.org

Stay here: The spacious Oranjekom Gorge Cottage (sleeps two) is the newest addition to the park and built underneath the public lookout point. It’s off the grid, so it’ll get hot in summer without fans or air con, but the breathtaking view is yours alone for sunrise and sunset. From R1600. sanparks.org

7. Tuck into Aunt Koera’s real roosterkoek

Aunt Koera making roosterkoek the proper way on beautiful Erin Game Farm. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

You’ll find Aunt Koera rolling and cutting up dough for fresh roosterkoek, best served alongside her lamb stew with sweet carrots and a salad made using the wild and tangy ‘gemsbok cucumbers’ grown in the Kalahari. Cooking was always Aunt Koera’s passion, so she decided to use a portion of the communal land on Erin Game Ranch, which is now owned by the local Khomani San community, to start feeding travellers. She especially enjoys cooking over the fire because it keeps with the traditions of Kalahari cuisine and, besides, true roosterkoek is not something one can make on a stove. Meals from R120 per person. Call ahead to book. Tel 0835888346, khomanisan.com

Stay here: Boesmansrus, also run by the community, has authentic, rustic grass huts with basic facilities – good if you’re just looking for a bed to lay your head down overnight. R200 per person. Tel 0783280578, openafrica.org/experiences

Also read: Plan your best ever trip to the Kgalagadi.

8. Surf big red dune at Rooiduin Guest Farm

Cobra floor polish smeared on the boards ensures good pace down the red dunes (as Deon Pienaar from Open Africa pictured above discovered). Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

There’s no better way of immersing yourself in the beauty of the Kalahari’s big blue sky than by gazing up at it after landing in the sand while dune boarding at Rooiduin Guest House. Alida and Naas Mouton offer sandboarding near Askham at a really affordable price, and it’s great for any age. The dunes aren’t too big and you can wear any old sneakers. There’s no need to stand upright – it’s even more fun when seated. If you’re nervous of falling, don’t be – the red sand is soft and people say it has great exfoliating properties…

Do this: It’s best to book ahead and you can easily spend about an hour on the sand. It costs R100 per person. There are also 4×4 activities if you’re keen to take your exploration of the red dunes a bit further. Tel 0825896659, openafrica.org/experiences

 

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

The Genadendal Trail is a fairly tough two-day hike with little shade, but the flower-speckled mountainsides, interchanging views and refreshing swimming holes make it memorable.

A national monument in the Genadendal werf at the start of the trail.

The small town of Genadendal, lying just 5km from Greyton in the Western Cape, isn’t well known, but it has a fascinating history. It was the first mission station in Southern Africa and Nelson Mandela renamed the president’s official Cape Town residence after the small town. It’s also the starting point of a two-day hiking trail that winds its way up and over the Riviersonderend Mountains and down into the Robertson Valley on the other side.

This beautiful overnight hike traverses the Riviersonderend Conservation Area, which is 70000 hectares of rugged terrain, disappearing gorges, and gurgling mountain streams. You spend the night in a farm hut and then return to Genadendal on a circular route.

Looking down on the town, it’s easy to understand why Genadendal was an attractive place to settle as water and building materials would have been readily available. The mission was started under the cluster of trees at the bottom right of this image.

Genadendal lies at the confluence of two rivers that join to form the Baviaansrivier and was founded almost 300 years ago. In 1738 a German missionary of the Moravian church, Georg Schmidt, arrived in a region known as Baviaanskloof (Ravine of the Baboons). Schmidt encountered an impoverished and dispersed Khoi people and set about teaching them to read and write.

Today the centre of town is run by locals as a community project. They care for a museum, the water mill, a printing museum, a bookshop and country-style accommodation, which is rented to visitors. Arriving on a Friday night, we had a meal in Greyton, and spent a night in dorms at the Moravian Mission Station. On a bright October morning, we left at 08:00 passing a national monument on the way out of town.

We made our way past sedimentary rock layers angled like arrows in a battlefield, and encountered the baboons that have given their name to many landmarks in the area. We heard them barking and spotted them on a hill below us.

The Genadendal Trail was launched about 15 years ago, but it follows paths that are hundreds, if not thousands, of years old. I photographed each stage of the trail to give you a good idea of what to expect.

The reserve is full of pines that have proven stubborn and nearly impossible to completely extinguish. We encountered the first of many at a shaded spot where we had a mid-morning snack.

After the snack, we traversed a plateau thick with yellow flowers that stood on the side of the path like supporters of a marathon cheering us on.

Wonderklippe is a section of the hike with interesting rock formations. They stand very tall, upright and alone, like totem poles or massive, single cricket wickets.

Surrounded by yellow blossoms, Julian stares at the corpse of a long-forgotten tree. Our path for the day would take us down the mountain in the far distance.

We eventually arrived at our much-anticipated lunch spot, Groot Koffiegat. The water was deep enough to dip in properly and it was wonderfully, frighteningly cold.

We were halfway and decided to spend a few hours at the water snoozing, eating, and swimming so that we could complete the day’s hiking in the cool of the afternoon. Henri certainly wasn’t going anywhere soon.

The scenery after lunch drew a spate of comparisons to North America. Most of us haven’t even been there, but it perfectly matched what we imagine the far-off continent to look like. We were half-expecting to see a grizzly around the next bend.

Our accommodation for the night lay in the valley below us near the dam on De Hoek Farm. Late in the afternoon, we still had a fair way to go.

We descended from the pines, through a picturesque valley that dropped us off at the boundary of the nature reserve and the farm.

White sand formed our path off the mountain while the disappearing sun lit up the hills behind us.

We followed jeep tracks through interleading paddocks with helpful signs like this one showing us the way.

The accommodation here has recently been renovated and there are now three new huts, each catering for eight hikers.

After a relatively tough day, we finally made it to camp. Our very long swimming stop at Groot Koffiegat had turned the seven-hour hike into a ten-hour one.

The accommodation on the trail has recently been renovated and there are now three new huts, each catering for eight hikers. There is warm water, a fridge, braai wood, and the farmer can even arrange braai meat, drinks, and milk for you with due warning.

You can see our trusty companion, Mike Lundy’s Weekend Trails book, is at hand for easy consultation.

After a good sleep we set off again. The two-hour climb with no shade on day two was probably the most challenging part of the hike, but we knew what to expect thanks to the sacred hiking text of Mike Lundy’s Weekend Trails in the Western Cape.

Mike is a Cape hiking legend and his words have guided hikers for decades across the region. He was, in fact, part of the original clearance party that broke the Genadendal trail back in 2002. My friends and I discovered the book about a year ago and are slowly ticking off the different hikes. We’ve completed nine of the 24 thus far and hope to do them all within the coming years. After that, we’ll probably be ready to start all over again.

Different flowers popped up on every section of the hike. Scatterings of yellow, orange, pink, purple, and blue added bursts of colour to our path.

At the top of the incline, we found sanctuary in the shade. We snacked and regathered ourselves while looking out over the valley below us with the towns of McGregor and Robertson in the distance.

On top of the mountain was a forest of pines as thick as the bristles on a hairbrush. The young trees seemed to grow on top of each other and it was a good example of just how destructive pines are and how other vegetation has little chance to survive alongside it. It was our highest point over the two days. We popped out the other side and started our descent back to Genadendal.

As the pines thinned out, the path levelled, and purple plants of Cape heather showed us the way down.

Looking back we could see the mountain we had just scaled, the sandy path that led us down and felt the sense of satisfaction that comes with the simple joy of climbing a mountain.

As Mike Lundy wrote, the trail is, ‘demanding but beautiful.’ The best hikes always are.

Back in the small town of Genadendal, local ladies were dressed smartly, gathering for a church service. We took off our shoes, threw our bags in the cars and waved them goodbye.

The two-day Genadendal Trail details

Distance: 25.3 km (first day – 14.3km and second day – 11km)
Estimated time: 15 hours (first day – 8 hours and second day – 7 hours)
How: Call CapeNature on 0214830190 for permits. For Friday night accommodation in Genadendal phone 0282518346. For the Saturday night on De Hoek Farm phone 0236262176.
Costs: Hiking permits are R40 per person per day. It costs R80 per person to stay in the Moravian Mission Station in Genadendal and R171 per person to stay on the farm.
Our tip: There is not much shade on the hike so be sure to take a hat, sunscreen, and plenty of water. We rued not arranging cold beers to be waiting for us on the Saturday. I definitely recommend considering that.

How old can ‘old’ really be? Ancient ruins reveal much about ancient culture and these incredible sites have been preserved since their conception.

Visit the monuments that still stand today and see what life was like in a place that ceased to exist years ago. These are some of the world’s most beautiful ancient ruins.

1.Temple of Confucius, China

Location: Qufu City

Confucius’ teachings influenced many in Asia. Image by Ivan Herman.

The end of September this year marked the 2568th anniversary since the birth of the Confucius – the Chinese educator, philosopher and educator. A grand ceremony took place in his honour and the majestic Temple of Confucius named after the Chinese leader was built in 1302. It’s one of the most renowned temples and the second largest temple in China. An emblem of the rich Asian history and culture, the temple has nine courtyards offering a tranquil environment to appreciate the stillness as you learn about the Asian history.

2. Great Mosque of Djenné, Mali

Location: Djenné, Mopti

The community replasters the mosque every Spring. Image by Romel Jacinto

The famous landmark in Africa was only declared a Heritage Site in 1988. The mosque used to be the meeting place for traders from Sudan and Guniea in 800AD. The Great Mosque of Djenne is a mosque and occasionally becomes a market. The city is also affectionately known as the City of Mud and is built from a mixture of straw, clay and oil. It remains a prominent symbol of the city and the nation of Mali.

3. Prambanan Temple, Indonesia

Location: Yogyakarta

The black and grey spires from the temple are seen from a distance. Image by Peter Nijenhuis.

The Prambanan Temple was built in the 9th century AD. The temple is 47 metres high and is the largest temple dedicated to Shiva, who was one of three Hindu gods. The beautifully carved temple can be seen from a great distance and is surrounded by green fields and a few villages.

4. Ajanta Caves, India

Location: Aurangabad

India has an artistic influence too. Image by Shashi Agarwai.

The Ajanta Caves is the oldest UNESCO Heritage in India, which are over 2000 years old. These caves are home to magnificent masterpiece of Indian art. It is believed that Buddhist monks spent their time in the caves during monsoons. While they were waiting for the monsoons to end, they painted the caves.

5. Roman Baths, Rome

Location: Rome

What better place to catch up on gossip than in a bath. Image by Alister Babb.

Roman Baths were a day-to-day life in ancient Rome and were useful for social and community gatherings.The local complex was a gathering point where everyone would chat and relax. Folk in the ancient Roman times could choose between a cold, warm or hot bath. Many would indulge in all three. There are baths that remain in the old sites, but are not in operation anymore.

6. Husuni Kubwa Palace, Tanzania

Location: Kilwa Kisiwani

The East African Coast was home to trading towns in the 14th century. The Husuni Kubwa Palace was built by Sultan al-Hasan ibn Sualiman who was referred to as ‘the father of gifts’. He made the palace from jagged blocks of coral stone. Kilwa Kisiwani was a wealthy port for trading between Africa, Arabia, China and India.

7. Bagan Temples, Myanmar

Location: Central Burma

More than 10 000 temples are built in the ancient city of Burma. Image by Jim Driscoll.

The Bagan Temples are in the ancient city of Burma. These temples were built between the 11th and 13th century. The Kings all wanted to leave a legacy for the future generation by creating the monuments. The are more than 10 000 Bagan Temples that have various architectural styles. The Bagan architectural zone is on the UNESCO Heritage Site list.

8. Luxor Temple, Egypt

Location: Luxor City

Based on the east side of the Nile River is the Luxor temple. Image by Pnp.

The ancient Luxor temples are on the east side of the Nile River. The temples were constructed in 1400 BC in the Thebes and are made from sandstone blocks. The temple is one of the best preserved ancient monuments in the world. The entrance of the monument is known as the first pylon. The statues seated at the entrance, are of the Ramesses II. Ramesses was a pharaoh of the Dynasty of Egypt.

9. Baalbek: Temple of Baachus, Lebanon

Location: Lebanon

The temple is part of Baalbek’s medieval fortification. Image by Caroline Milton.

The temple of Baachus is one of the grandest Roman temples ruins ever built. The temple is dedicated to the Roman wine god, Baachus. The building was constructed in 150 AD to 250 AD. Tourism has become a large part of the economy in Baalbek. An annual Baalbek International Festival takes here.

10. Chichen Itza, Mexico

Location: Yucatan

Mexico’s most visited archaeological site. Image by Vasenka Photography.

The Chichen Itza is Mexico’s most visited archaeological site. The Mayan ruin is an enormous pyramid made from stone dating back as early as 250 AD. The pyramid was originally built around a limestone sinkhole and is known as one of the seven wonders of the world. The name Chichen Itza means “the mouth of the well of Itza”.

11. Longmen Grottoes, China

Location: Luoyang

Natural architecture is beautiful. Image by Kevin Poh.

The largest and most impressive collection of Chinese art is based in the Longmen Grottoes, also known as the Longmen Caves. The caves are made out of lime stone. The carving for the caves began in 492 AD and continued for 500 years. There are now 1350 caves to visit with a number of statues inside, all accessible to the public.

12. Ta Prohm Temple, Cambodia

Location: Siem Reap

Ta Prohm was one of the sets for the movie ‘The Tomb Raider’. Image by Dennis Jarvis.

The original name for Ta Prohm was Rajavihara which means ‘The King’s Ministry’. Originally the temple was built in 1186 and used as a Buddhist Monastery and learning centre. It is one of three most popular attractions in Siem Reap. This is where the movie The Tomb Raider with actress Angelina Jolie was filmed.

What temples have you visited that are not on the list? Comment in the box below and share with us.

Iceland is safe, intriguing, and has one of the most spectacular ring roads in the world. These three friends drove it in nine days. Words and photographs by Natalie Roos.

On the basalt rocks at Reynisfjara beach (near Vik), a place that has sucked many an unwitting photographer into the icy wash; Disused farm houses covered at nearby Dyrholaey. Image by Natalie Roos

A flurry of blinding white is flying towards the windscreen and reflecting the headlights back into our eyes. It’s pitch dark and we can’t decide if it’s more terrifying driving with the brights on or off. Misha Coetzee is at the wheel. Camilla Corder and I are in the back, giggling nervously between reassuring murmurs of ‘You’re doing really great’ and ‘Just go dead slow’. We only landed in Iceland a short while ago. After a 15-hour journey from Joburg we should be exhausted. Instead, we’re invigorated and full of adrenalin.

This is a road trip like no other: three girls, an open road and a freezing island wilderness with fire in its veins. We’ve given ourselves nine days to drive anti-clockwise around it, on the Ring Road (Route 1, as it’s also known). We’re on day one, en route from Keflavík International Airport in Reykjavik to Vik, the southernmost town. According to Google Maps it should take us under three hours. But it’s been slow going, what with not knowing if we might plummet into the North Atlantic around the next bend…

The country is a camper’s dream. At some sites visitors wake up beside large glassy lakes in front of glaciers thousands of years old. At others there are hot tubs and Wi-Fi. Ancient land, modern world. Our initial plan was to hire a camper van and seek out these spots – it’s the most affordable way to explore Iceland. But it’s March, the end of winter, and the campsites are still closed. Instead, we’ve got a Subaru Forester 4X4, the promise of warm hotel beds and hot showers. We may be adventurous women, but that doesn’t mean we don’t appreciate comfort.

In fact, despite its frigid surface, Iceland as a whole is a place that makes travellers feel comfortable. It has one of the lowest crime rates in the world (less than two murders per year reported since 2011), a network of extremely well-maintained roads, a free safety app that sends your location to a response centre in the event of an emergency – even if your phone shows no signal – and one of the world’s most gender-equal societies. It’s the perfect destination for women with a sense of adventure.

The inside of the Vatnajokull ice cave feels like another planet; as white as snow. Images by Natalie Roos

We drive between 200 and 400 kilometres each day, stopping often to capture the island’s indescribable beauty. We contemplate abandoned summer homes covered in snow, see geysers shoot boiling water into the air, walk on beaches made of black volcanic sand (evidence of the ongoing seismic activity) and watch a glittering light display in the night sky. Every day is a constant reminder of Mother Nature and her power. It’s the most alive place I’ve ever seen.

In the east, we clamber into a Ford F250 with snow tyres the size of our cars back home, strap on our crampons and venture into an ice cave inside Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier. I’m not normally one to rely on feminine wiles, but Misha flutters her eyelashes and negotiates us a discounted rate with a tour guide, which I don’t see a reason to complain about.

A little later we stop again to find icy gems on Diamond Beach and then again to get soaked at Skógafoss waterfall. In just our first two days, we’ve already crammed in a year’s worth of natural beauty. We swap out the driver’s seat every morning. The late-winter conditions remain tricky and though we still drive white-knuckled through snow and sleet, the excellent condition of the roads gives us confidence. Our snow tyres make us feel even safer – we pass several cars who’ve been caught out, and are grateful we chose to spend the extra money on them, especially because we’ve finally admitted that none of us actually knows how to change a tyre.

We meander north along the eastern fjords, where the winding roads are clear of snow and the views are incomparable. Eventually, even Camilla stops counting our photo stops. Up north, we find the Mývatn Nature Baths, where we spend an afternoon submerged in the geothermally heated water, sipping on duty-free whisky from water bottles while snow freezes our ponytails solid. We spend that night in a log cabin at Vogafjós Guesthouse and wake up to find our car hidden beneath a mound of fresh powdery snow and squeal with delight.

Dramatic light at Dyrholaey(it measn ‘the hill-island with the door-hole’), known for its large puffin population in summer; Misha and Camilla scouting. Images by Natalie Roos

The western fjords are slightly less impressive than the east, but we are not disappointed when we find that our accommodation at Heydalur Guesthouse has three natural hot springs as well as a greenhouse complete with a hot tub and heated pool. There’s no one but Icelandic horses around, so we swim in our birthday suits surrounded by snow on the ground.

In the evenings, we eat wherever we can, since we’ve found that some small towns have only one restaurant (if they have one at all). We’re normally starving, having skipped lunch in favour of spending R70 on machine coffee to keep Misha alive. Little do we know that by the end of the trip, R500 for a pizza will seem relatively normal, especially when we consider that we’re eating fresh pineapple, in Iceland, in the Arctic winter.

On our last day on the Ring Road, we make friends with two travellers from the Czech Republic in yet another geothermal pool. Ivan and Barb share their plan to hunt down the Northern Lights after dark. We decide, excitedly, to join them since the lights have eluded us thus far. The evening’s forecast says we have a seven out of nine chance. That’s about as good as it gets.

At 21:00, I’m dressed in thermals, multiple jackets, scarves, a beanie and gloves. Our new friend Ivan is the designated driver, and he keeps a close eye on the forecast using the Veðurstofa Íslands website. He seems to know what he’s doing, and explains that we need to drive to a spot about 20 minutes away where the conditions look set to be ideal in, surprisingly, exactly 20 minutes time. Misha and I cling to each other in the back seat of Ivan’s rental as we hurtle down the highway at speeds I’m sure are not legal. (Camilla was feeling ill during the day and took a sleeping pill before our evening plans were set in motion. I tried to pull her out of bed but she was too sleepy to join us. A decision she will never live down!)

And then, like magic, as we hit the 20-minute mark, a faint green tinge appears in the dark sky. Ivan skids to a stop and as we pile out of the car, cameras at the ready, the sky suddenly seems to break into a silent song of light and colour. Shards of green shine down on me and it feels like they are dancing to music just out of my earshot. It feels almost like Iceland knows we’re leaving and is saying farewell with a dazzling light display.

Icelandic horses turn fluffy in the winter months, developing a thick coat to keep them warm; the smell at the Myvatn geyser is hard to stomach, but the scene is very dramatic.

We drive into Reykjavik the following morning, by now completely at ease on the ‘wrong’ side of the road. The blizzards have cleared, making way for bright sunshine. Misha, Camilla and I are all quiet. Call it feminine intuition, but by now we all know what the other one is thinking. I stop the car to take one last picture of the wide-open road and snow-capped mountains before heading back into civilization. Behind us lie 3000 kilometres of the wildest adventure we’ve ever had.

Five cool things about travelling with women only

1. Everyone agrees that it’s best to stop and ask for directions.
2. No one rushes your morning routine.
3. Never having to explain that you’re not angry, just ‘hangry’ (so hungry that you’re angry) because the girls just know.
4. There’s always at least one person on hand to blow-dry your hair.
5. Having someone who truly respects your need for a great picture, without feeling like they’ve been relegated to Instagram husband.

5 tips for travelling with friends

Homes lie in wait on the east and west fjords, where locals holiday in the warmer months; an image of the roadside in Iceland. Images by Natalie Roos.

1. Make sure you’re all clear on expectations up front. Camilla knew that Misha and I were going to be taking thousands of photos and expecting her to pose for them. Misha and I knew that Camilla was going to expect us to pull over to hug every Icelandic horse she saw.
2. Travel with snacks at all times to avoid blood-sugar lows and bouts of unexpected ‘hanger’.
3. Make sure at least one of you showers and dries their hair the night before so you can leave before lunchtime the next day.
4. To aid with cost- splitting, set up a group cash kitty at the beginning of the trip and use this to cover breakfasts, fuel and group activities along the way.
5. Take some fun stuff for hotel-room parties, like sheet masks and hair treatments for post-geothermal-pool grooming.

Plan your trip to Iceland

Getting there

We flew from Johannesburg to Amsterdam with KLM. From R8000 return. Then, it’s a four-hour flight to Reykjavik with Icelandair. From R4000 return.

TIP Sign up to the airline newsletters and book when you spot a good deal.

The Jokulsarlon Lagoon. Image by Natalie Roos

Getting around

We booked a Subaru Forester because it had all-wheel drive. We took out all the insurance policies on offer, additional travel insurance and, of course, those snow tyres. Be sure to rent a GPS too. Google Maps can’t always be trusted. We paid about R11000 for the lot for nine days.

What it cost us

Flights: R13000 per person
Accommodation: R9000 per person (sometimes three to a room)
Vehicle: R3500 per person
Fuel: R1500 per person
Food, drinks and activities: R3000 per person
TOTAL R30000 per person

Need to know

South Africans need a visa. About R1800. Book at the end of winter for powdery snow almost daily and spectacular sightings of the Northern Lights. Currency is the Icelandic króna (R1 = 7kr). Credit-card facilities are common, as are ATMs. A local SIM loaded with 10GBs data is about R400 at duty free. Stock up on liquor there too (it’s super expensive otherwise).

Stay Here

Iceland is incredibly popular year-round so book well in advance. Always opt for the ‘breakfast included’ option. It’s much cheaper than paying for breakfast when you’re there.

Snow whips across the road, driven by icy polar winds; we found heaps of geothermal pools along the way (so don’t forget your swimsuit).

Icelandair Hotel, Egilsstaðir is in a great location, clean, tidy and good value. From R1200 per person B&B.

Vogafjós Guesthouse is near the baths at Mývatn and has a cosy restaurant inside a working dairy. Try the traditional lamb stew (R200). Rooms from R1200 per person (including breakfast).

Hvammstangi Cottages in the northwest are adorable but the town pretty much shuts down for the winter, so you’ll have to take snacks with for breakfast. From R791 per person.

Do This

Step inside the Vatnajökull glacier. It costs R3500 per person if you book in advance, but if you just rock up there’s a chance you’ll get a discount. We found a tour operator at the glacier.

Stand beneath the Skögafoss waterfall just outside the town of Skógar. Entrance is free. Swim in the geothermal pool at Laugar í Sælingsdal. You’ll find the location on Instagram.

Swim in the Mývatn Nature Baths. They’re the same colour as Iceland’s famous Blue Lagoon but half the price and less crowded. From R450 per person.

Walk the fairy-lit streets of Egilsstaðir. It felt like Christmas.

Visit the harbour in Akureyri. I would have loved to spend two nights in this town. It has some great little coffee shops and restaurants.

Buy an iconic Icelandic jersey at the Kidka Wool Factory Shop in Hvammstangi. They cost around R2500.

 

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

In the latest copy of Getaway, you’ll find our top list of off-the-grid campsites across South Africa. This is my favourite assignment of the year – it always guarantees exploring crazy beautiful landscapes, sitting around fires at night and long drives with good company. What could be better?

Some of the campsites had mountains, some had bush and some had breathtaking views. Some were surrounded by rocks and some were visited by the occasional elephant in the night. Find out exactly where we travelled to in the November issue, out of shelves now. In the meantime, here are some of the snaps we took on the road.

Our first stop had skyscraper trees and a river that flows along white beach sand.

And then it was off to Kareedouw area, a good 8 hours away. The long drive was worth it when we arrived in time for this view.

The impromptu stop that happens when light turns golden.

Attempts at making the perfect braaibroodtjie. Maybe we should have read this recipe post first.

Cold mountains shrouded in cloud greeted us on the next leg.

Inching the latest Landrover up the hill, careful not to scratch the rims of the tyres on jutting rocks. Fellow journo Melanie did a sterling job!

Dark night skies. We travelled in the beginning of spring and braved frigid nights. The things we do for you, oh valued readers.

Dawn, and welcome warmth to go with a toasty cup of coffee and endless views.

The canola was in full force. We travel for our stories more than two months before the issue goes to print, which was lucky in this case as it made for splendid driving scenery.

Free champagne tasting at Twee Jonge Gezellen farm in Tulbagh – yes please! So good that we ended up buying a few bottles before continuing our journey.

Warming up after another cold night.

Rows of enamel coffee cups made for quaint and functional decor.

And then it was back to Cape Town, stopping when we saw patches of wildflowers.

For the last leg we visited KZN and our first stop was the magnificent Drakensberg.

A walk down to the nearby river made for the ideal sundowner spot. Unintentional finds are the best!

Evening descended, but thankfully, it was much warmer in this part of the world.

After the mountains, it was into the bush.

And to one of my favourite reserves (you’ll have to read the issue to find out where).

Camping beneath the trees, sunlight filtering through the smoke of our fire… this was the last stop before heading back to Durban, and it couldn’t have been a better choice.

Fare thee well, giraffe. We’re off to the airport!

Find our top off-the-grid campsites in the November 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our special green issue features the best off-the-grid campsites, fantastic holiday stays in Wilderness, an affordable jungle trail in Borneo, incredible eco-lodges in Zanzibar and our Green Wine Guide is finally out with winners!

Zanzibar is a phenomenal place, but it’s not because of the beaches.

The temptation, when you arrive on a tropical island, is to plonk yourself down with a cocktail and a book and try your best not to move until your time is up and you’re begrudgingly slingshotted back into the thousand tiny disappointments of everyday life. Zanzibar offers the opportunity for that – bright blue water, sugar-fine sand, palm trees that scrape the sky, all of that jazz. But it has so much more to offer.

When Teagan Cunniffe and I travelled there for a story in our November issue, scoping out the eco-friendly places to stay on this absurdly beautiful island, we stayed well on the other side of the hotel security fence. We sipped black coffee in Jaws Corner in the cool early mornings, and freewheeled down back roads on rickety bicycles. We snorkelled above East Africa’s healthiest coral garden, and heard whalesong juddering through the water. We ate a not-insignificant number of chapattis.

Here are my recommendations of the day trips that you can’t miss on your trip to Zanzibar.

1. Take a bike tour to a spice farm

Everything was quiet on our ride, except these giggling schoolgirls on their way home. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The history of Zanzibar is inextricably tied up with spices, and a tour to the spice farms north of Stone Town is one of the most popular tours on the island. But we decided to do something a little different. Or at least, I did; Teagan imagined that we would be taking a short, idyllic caper around some mango trees, smelling vaguely of cinnamon. Instead, we smelled very differently as we cycled the roughly 30 kilometres from the centre of Stone Town to the spice farm and back.

Riding through the downtown area was, let’s say, a full-body experience. Teagan and I wobbled after our guide like little chickens after a hen, dodging motorbikes, donkey-carts, dala-dalas, goats, cars and people. It was dusty, chaotic, and some of the most fun I had on the island.

But if that doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, you can load the bikes onto a dala-dala and skip forward to the serene part – when the cars and buildings give way to tall palm trees, quiet roads and smooth red clay.

The spice farm tour made up for the exertion. We followed Abdullah, the spice farm owner, who showed us the fruits and spices grown here. Seville oranges, cinnamon, jackfruit, ylang ylang, carambola, annato, pawpaw, limes, mango, were just some of the produce we sniffed and slurped and sampled as we made our way around – and then it was time for lunch. It was a slow and heavy ride back to town.

Contact: lovezanzibar.com

2. Day trip to Chumbe island

This lighthouse on Chumbe island is one of the oldest in Zanzibar. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Chumbe island is the first privately-funded marine park in Africa. There are only seven eco-bungalows on the island, and the fees gathered from accommodation are entirely funnelled back into a variety of projects aimed at marine conservation. Staying overnight is of course not cheap – but day trippers get access to the island, an amazing lunch, and even use of a bungalow for the afternoon, which offers amazing value. It’s worth it for the world-class snorkelling alone. The only catch is that availability for day trips depends on the number of overnight guests, so it’s not possible to book more than one or two days ahead.

Contact: chumbeisland.com

3. Stone town tour

Doorways and bicycles: everyday scenes in Stone Town. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

It is impossible to plan a trip to Zanzibar without hearing about the winding alleyways, the citrus carts, the motos, the bicycles, the architecture. I suggest treating it like a museum, and accepting that it’s better to do one section fully than dash around trying to look at everything. If you do only have one day, try to find a tour that can be tailored to your interests, rather than doing a loop of every historical site of interest. Spoiler alert: there are a lot of them. Like most experiences in Zanzibar, this is one that it’s worth shelling out for a licensed guide. There will be plenty of unlicensed touts at Forodhani gardens who will want to take you around, and that’s fine – but be aware that this information is often passed down third hand, rather than by independent study.

We went with Hammad from Eco-Culture Tours; ask him about his outlandish theory regarding the slave chambers underneath the Anglican cathedral.

Contact: ecoculture-zanzibar.org

4. Jozani Forest

Jozani Forest is the largest surviving forest in Zanzibar, and most people come here to see the endemic red Colobus monkeys. That’s not difficult – because they’re protected in this area, they’re not afraid and highly habituated to humans. (Although because they lack the stomach enzymes necessary to digest sugary fruit, they’re not really domesticable – as our guide explained to us, there’s nothing humans can offer them that they don’t prefer to do themselves.)

You’ll be assigned a guide at the entrance (this is included in your fee, though of course you should also tip), so you could make your own way there via alternative transport if you wanted.

5. Eat street food

A simple dish of veggies and chapatti, washed down with beer. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

With the obvious caveat that some stomachs are stronger than others, street food here is great. I still have dreams about fresh Zanzibar chapattis, wrapped in newspaper, too hot to hold properly. Kachori also come highly recommended – little deep-fried balls of mashed potato, spiced with chilli and lime. Kitumbuwa, little rice-flour fritters are often flavoured with cardamom. And, of course, you should buy a fresh coconut every time you see one.

6. Safari Blue

Don’t be fooled – many casual tour guides will want to take you on a “Safari Blue” trip. That’s because this tour is so popular, and has been around for so long, that it’s used as a synonym for “day trip on a boat.”
It’s a very smooth-running organisation, with armbands and group names to make sure people don’t get lost, and once you’re split up into groups of 10 or so on each boat, it feels much more like a family affair. There are a lot of highlights, when your day includes two different snorkelling spots and a delicious seafood braai on the beach (beers and lobster included) – but one of my favourite moments was when the sails came down, and we took a lazy ride back to shore with the trade winds behind us.

Contact: safariblue.net

7. Visit the Sponge Farm

Okala’s brother took us out to see the Sponge farm on his traditional dhow. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

This is possibly the least glamorous outing we did; but also the most satisfying. Okala, a conservationist known locally by only his last name, wanted us to see this project first hand. The Sponge farm has been developed as an alternative source of income for fishermen – if they’re carefully looked after, they can provide full-time employment for two people. It was a spontaneous excursion, but he welcomes interested people – and also runs a fabulous beachside restaurant.

Contact: marinecultures.org

Find our top off-the-grid campsites in the November 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our special green issue features the best off-the-grid campsites, fantastic holiday stays in Wilderness, an affordable jungle trail in Borneo, incredible eco-lodges in Zanzibar and our Green Wine Guide is finally out with winners!

Hardy cheeses are perfect travellers, robust enough to survive time out of the fridge. Shop smart and they’ll become the starting point for away meals that can go in any number of directions, including a fine pairing with your winter soup.

Add bread, butter and preserves and lunch is done. Add a bowl of soup and call it supper. Pour a soete and there’s a cheese course instead of desert. Read below for details on the various cheeses.

Cremalat Gorgonzola
Mild and so creamy it’s more like eating butter than blue cheese. Origin: Elandsfontein, Gauteng. cremalat.co.za

Swiss land Drakensberg
A white-mould goats’ cheese coated in black ash with a clean, creamy flavour. Origin: Balgowan, KwaZulu-Natal. swisslandcheese.net

Gonedsa boerenkaas
A complex Gouda-style cheese ranging from five months to four years old. Origin: Cullinan, Gauteng. gonedsa.co.za

Ganzvlei Goukambert
Rooted in Camembert but more wild in flavour – in a good way! Origin: Stanford, Western Cape. ganzvlei.co.za

Langbaken Karoo Crumble
A Cheddar-style cheese that delivers a huge umami hit. Origin: Williston, Northern Cape. langbaken@williston.za.net, 0533914161

PepÉ Charlot Buchette
A semi-soft log of creamy goats’ cheese in varying degrees of ripeness. Origin: Kommetjie, Western Cape. pepecharlot.co.za

How to choose the cheese?

Aim for farm rather than factory produced and avoid added flavours – you want to taste cheese! Try three different styles (soft, hard, mould) or different milks (goat, cow, sheep). Get expert advice by chatting to your cheesemonger and prioritise local. Perhaps it’s possible to stop in at an artisanal dairy en route or at your destination.

How many cheeses?

Traditionally it’s three; more than five gets confusing. Even better, choose one excellent cheese and serve it with pride, like Healey’s Cheddar with Granny Smith apples or a hunk of Parmesan with pears. It also makes wine pairing easier. Try a great big wedge of Karoo Crumble with nothing more the Joostenberg Chenin.

Accomplishments?

Think of multi-tasking accompaniments, like a jar of raw honey (excellent with creamy goats’ cheese) that will come in handy at breakfast. If there’s a jar of fig preserve or a bottle of chutney at the farm stall along the way, go ahead and incorporate it, but if the cheese is good to start with, it can stand alone.

Have some soup with your cheese

Two super-easy recipes to make ahead and pack in for the weekend, along with the cheese.

For goats’ cheese:

Helene’s Leek Soup

Serves 6

Ingredients
• 160g butter
• 600g leeks, topped and tailed, thinly sliced and washed well
• sea salt and black pepper
• 2.5L chicken stock

To serve
• crème fraîche
• chives, finely chopped
• seed loaf and butter

Method
1. Add the butter, leeks and a good pinch of salt to a medium-sized pot over medium-low heat and replace the lid. Sweat for about 40 minutes or until soft and golden.
2. Add the stock, bring to the boil, reduce the heat and simmer for 15 minutes. Blitz with a handheld blender until smooth, then season to taste.
3. Dish up the hot soup. Add a dollop of crème fraîche, sprinkle with chives and serve with seed loaf and cheese.

The stock
A more brothy soup relies on good homemade stock, but here it’s okay to use instant. A good convenience version is the Nomu Fond range. Italian funghi porcini stock cubes are particularly good for mushroom soup – find them under the brands Knorr, San Martino and Star at Italian delis and certain supermarkets.

For Camembert:

Easy Mushroom Soup

Serves 6

Ingredients
• 80g butter
• 2 onions, finely chopped
• sea salt and black pepper
• 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 500g (2 punnets) button mushrooms, cleaned and sliced
• 2 small potatoes, peeled and chopped
• 1L mushroom stock (or dilute chicken stock)
• 250ml full-cream milk To serve
• 1T butter
• 150g (1 punnet) baby button mushrooms, cleaned
• cream (optional)
• 1 baguette (and butter)

Method
1. Add the butter, onions and a good pinch of salt to a medium-sized pot over low to medium-low heat and put the lid on. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Remove the lid and cook for 45 minutes until soft and caramelised. Check and stir frequently in the last 30 minutes. Add the garlic in the last five minutes.
3. Add the mushrooms, turn up the heat to medium and cook, stirring, until softened. Add the potato and stir until coated with butter.
4. Add the stock and milk and bring to the boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat, replace the lid and simmer gently for 15 minutes or until the potatoes are cooked.
5. Process with a handheld blender until smooth, and season if necessary.
6. When ready to serve, heat the butter over high heat in a large pan until bubbling. Add the baby button mushrooms, season well and cook quickly, moving constantly, until nicely browned.
7. Dish up the hot soup, adding a drizzle of cream to each. Spoon the browned baby mushrooms onto the cream and serve with a warm crusty baguette and cheese.

PLUS: The chicken soup in one of these chicken recipes is delicious with the Karoo Crumble and a baguette.

Where to buy cheese?

Cheese Gourmet, Joburg 0118885384

Culture Club Cheese, Cape Town 0214223515 cultureclubcheese.co.za

The Real Cheese, Cape Town 0214488041

Smoking Gourmet, Durban North 0315634557 smokinggourmet.co.za

The Cheeseman, The Heath, Harkerville (near Plett) 0824910102

Don’t forget your local artisanal food markets.

Great-value supermarket finds

Pick up interesting, locally sourced cheeses at larger Woolworths stores, especially in the Artisan Cheesemaker range, such as the Kilembe, a hard goats’ milk cheese by Belnori in Bapsfontein and the Boland, a washed rind cheese by Dalewood Fromage in Franschhoek. Also look out for the Gruberg from Klein River Cheesery in Stanford, as well as the Mature Gouda, aged for up to 24 months. Checkers specialises in imported cheeses, which is useful for finding Stilton to go with your Port, but it also stocks the award-winning Healey’s Farmhouse Cheddar made in Somerset West.

What wine?

The French take cheese and wine seriously. Last year they conducted research to prove that ‘when having a plate of assorted cheeses, the wine will probably taste better no matter which one you choose’. Très bon! Maybe it’s because both are fermented – wine with yeast, cheese with bacteria – or maybe it’s that they share an acid sense of humour. Who cares: it’s a match made in the cellars of heaven and you’d be mad not to explore the possibilities. Because both products are such strong characters, it’s hard to find one-size-fits-all options, so rather go with one perfect, kick-ass, super-tweetable pairing. Push your boundaries and don’t be mean – if you’re ever going to blow the drinks budget, do it on a cheese-and-wine moment.

What label?

The gourmand’s choice

Karoo Crumble is a prince of cheeses and deserves a suitable partner, such as the Joostenberg Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2015 (R140). It’s liquid gold, full of marmalade and honey notes that bring an entire cheeseboard to life, including the Gorgonzola. Joostenberg is organic, so you can finish the bottle (guaranteed to happen) with a clear conscience. greenwineawards.com

Also read: What is green wine?

The classic pairing

Goats’ cheese is typically acidic, which explains why it waltzes with Sauvignon Blanc (google ‘Sancerre’). From the secluded Cape Point Vineyards in Noordhoek, you can see, with a pair of binoculars, Pepé Charlot’s goats in the distance: did someone say ‘terroir’? Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is R110, the Reserve is R165 and the awesome Isliedh (Semillon blend) is R240.

Fortified value

A 2017 Best Value champion, Aan de Doorns offers a three-star Cape Ruby Port that will set you back a miserly R45. Port and smelly cheeses were made for each other, with the sweetness of the wine balancing the pungent creamy saltiness. Try it with the Drakensberger. bestvaluewineguide.com

This story originally appeared in the June 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our June issue features a Namibia dune tour, 8 epic Drakensberg hikes, and 22 of the most unbeatable winter deals in SA.

This place of wine and olives is home to a thriving, creative community that specialises in the good life. It’s surprisingly good value. Here are 14 accommodation spots in Riebeek Valley recommended by Pippa de Bruyn.

How it works:

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice so how do we know Number 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For the Riebeek Valley, she created a longlist of 29 to inspect. The following made the cut.

What you need to know about accommodation in Riebeek Kasteel:

• Riebeek Kasteel, with its still-charming streetscape and untarred roads, is the retail and artistic heart of the valley. Accommodation stock here is very good but I also spread the net to include options in Riebeek West (five minutes away) and Hermon (20 minutes’ drive).
• Regardless of whether you’re looking for a luxury break or a pretty-looking bargain, the Riebeek Valley offers exceptional value – and it’s only an hour from Cape Town. Prices drop in winter (take advantage of this before 1 September); most owners are also very negotiable if you’re planning to book weekday stays – it pays to ask!
• Book well in advance for event weekends: The 2018 Olive Festival is 5 – 6 May; best to book that weekend right now. riebeekvalleyolivefestival.co.za
• The top single site to browse for a full range of accurately placed options is the tourism office’s Riebeekvalley.info. Apart from our choices given here, for rated listings, Booking.com has the biggest selection. For self-catering it’s worth also trawling Airbnb.

Also read: 23 things to do in Riebeek Kasteel 

Best for a special occasion

1. Bartholomeus Klip

No.1 of 4 B&BS/Inns, Hermon

This romantic country retreat on a working farm in a fynbos reserve ticks so many boxes – exclusive (10 guests maximum), peaceful and authentic; the farmhouse (which should be listed on TripAdvisor under Speciality Lodgings rather than B&Bs) offers the most wonderful evocation of an earlier era. The house is run by a team of great women, headed by twin sisters Lesley and Louise Gillett, who make it a warm and welcoming place: a fireplace burns all day, side tables groan with high-tea treats, evening drinks and canapés are served in the immaculate garden, followed by a flawless dinner and breakfast experience. The nature drive in an open-sided safari vehicle is surprising – aside from spotting quaggas (the farm is home to the successful Quagga Project), you’ll see baby geometric tortoises (too cute), bat-eared foxes, black wildebeest and fabulous birds. Equally pleasurable is to just stay put in a lounger next to my favourite pool in the whole of South Africa. The farm is 25 minutes from Riebeek Kasteel.
Room tip: Of the four luxury rooms, I liked Disa best. For privacy, views and space, the separately located Orchid Suite is well worth the extra cost.
Cost: From R4375 per person sharing.
Contact: bartholomeusklip.com

Most eco-conscious cottage

2. Blaauw Cottage

No.2 of 4 Specialty Lodgings, Riebeek Kasteel

Down a narrow panhandle, Blaauw Cottage is a very compact, double- volume two-bedroom cottage designed by owner Klaus Piprek (who lives adjacent) to be both water- and energy- efficient. It has an open-plan kitchen/ dining/living area with slide-and-fold doors opening onto a shaded stoep and an eye-level braai. An energy- efficient Scandi stove warms the house in winter, fans cool it in summer, and there are double-glazed windows and doors throughout. The plunge pool in the garden is surrounded by shrubs and trees; greywater is piped directly into the garden, and water tanks capture rain. Up a flight of exterior stairs, above the garage, is De Zolder, a third en-suite bedroom ideal to book with the cottage if you’re travelling with kids, or the twin beds can be made into a king-size for another couple. The cottage is in easy walking distance of the village centre.
Room tip: The two bedrooms (both with queen-size beds) on each side of the living area are mirror images, making this an ideal house to share for two couples.
Cost: From R990 a night; De Zolder from R550. Minimum two-night stay.
Contact: blaauw-riebeek.co.za

Most elegant B&B

3. Shiraz Estate

No.1 of 16 B&Bs/Inns, Riebeek Kasteel

Kristine Fuller-Gee and Thorbjørn Hansen took over the running of her Norway- based parents’ guest house last year, layering their cool, minimal-modern design aesthetic over the whitewashed walls of this 1881 farmhouse. The sensitive restoration by Kristine’s architect father has provided six en-suite rooms plus a double room in an adjoining barn; furnishings and fittings are locally made (including an ingenious headboard by Thor) but the clean Scandi-design eye is all theirs. Located in a small gated estate with spacious grounds, it’s a 15-minute walk to the centre of the village. The back garden is a lush, green oasis with a great pool and inviting tables. The three- course breakfasts are by all accounts legendary, and Kristine is a font of knowledge about the area.
Room tip: Room 6 is the smallest but has a delightful location off the stoep with picture-window overlooking the garden. The Family Suite in the eaves sleeps four.
Cost: Room 6 from R800 per person sharing B&B; other rooms from R525 per person sharing B&B.
Contact: shirazestate.co.za

Best hospitality

4. Vineyard Views

No.1 of 4 Specialty Lodgings, Riebeek Kasteel

From the minute you are ushered into this elegantly furnished house and led to the stoep overlooking the vineyards, where afternoon tea and a home-baked cake awaits, you know you are in for a pampering experience. By sundowner time, when hosts Grant Dewar and Gareth Dewar-Pienaar serve delicious canapés and local wines, you feel like you are visiting friends. At night you’ll return home to a warm cocoon of a room: curtains drawn, bed invitingly turned down with a home-made sweet treat, and romantically lit. Breakfast is a decadent spread, splendidly presented. Well-travelled and hospitality-savvy, Gareth and Grant designed the house as both beautiful home and eminently functional guest house, and their attention to detail and appreciation for quality – from lighting to linen – is excellent.
Room tip: All four rooms are lovely; each has a door to the garden and vineyard view. Three are in the downstairs guest wing, while the largest suite is completely separate from the others.
Cost: From R1550 per double room B&B, plus tea and cake, sundowner drinks and canapés on arrival. This is amazing value given how much you get! Dinners are available on request (R300 per person).
Contact: vineyardviews.co.za

Best bargain in town

5. Katarina’s

No.3 of 16 B&Bs/Inns, Riebeek Kasteel

Tucked away behind a large parking area, Katarina’s offers five pretty, well-maintained en-suite rooms with their own entrances and outside seating areas. Each room is stocked with rusks and tea/coffee-making facilities and has Wi-Fi and air con (essential in summer). Room 5 offers the option of self-catering with a small kitchenette opening onto a private patio area. Located off Riebeek Square in the heart of the village, you’ll hardly need your car once you’ve parked it here, with plenty of dining and bar choices strolling distance away. That said, this is also a potential drawback as there can be heavy traffic on the main road at times – if you’re a very light sleeper, this is not going to be the best choice for you. It’s listed as a B&B on TripAdvisor but no food is served.
Room tip: Room 3 has the most private outside area. It’s also the furthest from the main road (along with the self-catering room). If you like a big bed, Room 1’s is king-size and extra-long.
Cost: From R680 a room (sleeps two). Self-catering studio R900.
Contact: katarinas-riebeek.co.za

Best bargain farm stay

6. Della Vigna Cottage

Unlisted, Riebeek Kasteel

A few minutes’ drive from the village, on Welgevonden fruit farm (just the other side of the R46), this rustic two-bedroom self-catering spot overlooks a reed-fringed dam filled with birds. The cottage is small but you are surrounded by big views and so much space; there are manicured lawns and shade trees, a circular firepit and mobile braai, a jetty from which to birdwatch, and – the pièce de résistance – a gorgeous plunge pool, its location and design so discreet it almost looks part of the dam. The cottage comprises a single living space, easy to heat in winter with the large indoor braai-fireplace. Remote and private yet safe (security patrols at night), with all the essentials that count, for a very affordable price – ‘So everyone can receive its blessings and peace,’ says warm owner Sonja Vlok. The cottage is understandably booked months in advance, so call now.
Room tip: There are two bedrooms sharing a bathroom. If Della Vigna is full, Obiekwa (see Worth a Look below) also has a gorgeous setting.
Cost: R350 per person (whether one or four people).
Contact: dellavignacottage.co.za

Most creatively styled guest house

7. Dennehof House

No.3 of 5 B&Bs/Inns, Riebeek Kasteel

This wildly eclectic guest house comprises just four rooms – each individually decorated – sharing a lounge and honesty bar, and an outdoor pool. It’s owned and managed by affable Francie Kruger, with renovation and decor by her son Coenie (who incidentally co-owns Mama Cucina, Riebeek-Kasteel’s most famous restaurant). Coenie has no formal design training but has a truly amazing eye, able to combine antiques and salvaged pieces picked up at auctions in the surrounding towns with bold colours and interesting fabrics – if it hasn’t yet, Dennehof House is sure to feature in a decor magazine soon. The atmosphere is very much luxury guest house or B&B, but no meals are served. There’s plenty of choice in the valley, though, and Francie can make recommendations.
Room tip: Choose either of the upstairs rooms, opening onto a balcony, for the views and privacy. No children allowed due to lots of stairs and the open pool.
Cost: From R950 a room.
Contact: Find it on Facebook or booking.com.

Best self-catering cottage

8. Bloemendal

No.9 of 16 B&Bs/Inns Riebeek Kasteel

Clare Eksteen has created the perfect country-village bolthole: well furnished and supremely comfortable, textured with art, books and rugs, plus a deep, shaded veranda overlooking the garden and plunge pool. It’s a great all-season house: in summer slide-and-fold doors create easy flow to the outdoor lounge centred on a huge eye-level hearth and eight-seater dining table on the stoep. In winter you’ll light the open fireplace indoors. The open-plan kitchen/dining/lounge area is made for easy entertaining (and it’s well equipped with gas stove/ electric oven, dishwasher, washing machine, Wi-Fi etc). This is another to book soon.
Room tip: There are only two en-suite bedrooms, both with queen-size extra-length beds, that open onto the stoep.
Cost: R2200 a night (sleeps four). Minimum two-night stay.
Contact: bloemendal-riebeek.co.za

Worth a look

9. Obiekwa Cottage & Country House

A gorgeous two-bedroom cottage at the bottom of Lynne McNamara’s garden and a separate three-bedroom house in a quiet location; both have panoramic vineyard views and fireplaces. R900 and R1000 per night respectively (sleep four to six). sa-venues.com

10. The Loft at Old Oak Manor

This beautiful room, elegantly decorated by Salome Gunter, is the best option at Old Oak Manor (listed on TripAdvisor as the #1 B&B in Malmesbury, but definitely in Riebeek Kasteel). Downstairs is Café Felix where meals are served. R1600 B&B (sleeps three). cafefelix.co.za

11. The Royal Hotel

The best-value option here are the standard rooms in the garden (I liked four and five for their privacy and lovely views); they cost the same as the indoor standard rooms. R1500 a room B&B (sleeps two). Stay here and it’s just a couple of steps to drinks on that lovely stoep… royalinriebeek.com

12. Anni’s Den

Two dinky little cottages on a single plot, each sleeping two, that are surprisingly nice inside. Den is self-catering with an open-plan, en-suite bedroom on a mezzanine level (R1100 a night). Nest is a small en-suite room with a fridge, hotplate and stove fireplace (R800 a night). Both have braai facilities. annisden.co.za

13. Boudoir Santa Cecilia

In the middle of the action, this spacious studio apartment (sleeps three) above a wine shop in the buzzing Short Street enclave means you can stumble from the nearby restaurants or bars directly into bed. R880 a night. santacecilia.co.za

14. The Wine House

The Family Unit here is a total steal: two neat-as-a-pin bedrooms (sharing a bathroom), with the entrance off the stoep, at R800 a night (sleeps four). No meals served or self-catering but the village is a three-minute walk away. airbnb.com

Don’t miss:

Sipping a G&T on the stoep of the Royal Hotel (de rigueur, really). And a locally made Hipsters Tears beer at The Alchemist.

Stock up at Crisp, a tiny grocer with a great selection of top- quality fresh produce.

One thing all locals agree on is that Mama Cucina’s pizzas are just totally amazing.

Try gourmet olives pickled in flavours you’ve never imagined.

See what the local artists are producing at The Gallery.

The valley is part of the Swartland Birding Route – flocks of blue cranes gather here in winter. Maps with trails, hides, lists and info at swartlandtourism.co.za/birds.

 

This story first appeared in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

North of Durban, past the high-rises, there are still classic beach houses to be found. Embrace the endless summer of this slice of the KwaZulu-Natal coast in the privacy of your own ‘home’.

How it works?
TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice so how do we know Number 1 is really the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For the Dolphin Coast, she created a long list of 30 to inspect. The following made the cut.

What we found about accommodation in this area:
• Officially the Dolphin Coast lies between the Tongaat River and the Tugela River, but I focused on the 30-kilometre stretch between Umdloti and Salt Rock. I specifically went looking for a cottage or house with a garden, right on or walking distance to the beach. I found the best pickings at the southern end of Umdloti (south of the roundabout as you enter this still surprisingly small hamlet) and in Shaka’s Rock/Salt Rock.
• A number of houses ticked the ‘location’ box but were tatty and run down. Online photos are often out of date; it may be worth asking the owner what maintenance they undertook in the last year. A house next to the sea needs constant TLC.
• Trawling online for self-catering options is more challenging than looking for hotels and B&Bs, so beachhouseletting.com was a useful find. Otherwise, I sifted through the usual accommodation websites.
• Ballito, also on this stretch of coastline, is pretty built-up, with mostly townhouses and apartments to rent. Chas Everitt (lighthouse.co.za) has a large selection, of which I liked La Ballito 506, La Mer 8, Villa Med 2 and Villa Royale 2. Ballito is cheaper than Umhlanga, but if a holiday apartment appeals more than a house I’d still pay up for Umhlanga, where the infrastructure is more impressive.



Best value right on the beach

1. Netherley House

Unlisted on TripAdvisor, Salt Rock

The Steenbergs’ much-loved holiday home is by far the best rental option in Hotel Road, with an enviable position right on Salt Rock’s main swimming beach (the beacons demarcating the bathing area are sometimes right in front of the house). The long shaded verandah – comfortably furnished – overlooks a strip of lawn and timber stairs leading directly to the beach; the ocean is literally just a few strides away, and nostalgia- inducing Salt Rock Hotel a few minutes’ stroll. There are four en-suite bedrooms; two of them sleep three people each in a double and single bed. One bedroom is adjacent to the living area while the other three are in the L-shaped wing behind this; all have their own entrance. Time here is spent on the verandah or in the large open-plan living area centred on a great fireplace and huge circular mirror. Pets are considered on request. There is, incidentally, a beauty salon on the property right by the entrance, perfect for a little extra pampering.
Cost: From R5000 a night (sleeps 10), minimum two-night stay. Includes a housekeeper.
Contact: beachhouseletting.com

Cutest cottage

2. The Beach House

Unlisted on TripAdvisor, Salt Rock

There are at least three options in this area named, somewhat unimaginatively, ‘Beach House’ but this one is by far my favourite: an unpretentious, dinky cottage that has retained all the character and scale of its origins (it was one of the first built here, when there were only fishing cottages on this coast). It has been minimally renovated, with no alterations to the original structure, and furnished simply but tastefully. The former owner used it for the occasional photo shoot, and her decor flair has made this the best-dressed three-bedroom, two-bathroom option on the North Coast. The cottage is on a terraced plot on a steepish incline and is surrounded by a small, lush, well-tended garden – there’s a patch of flat lawn at the top and a small deck area affording great sea views. Willard Beach, one of Ballito’s best for swimming, is just 200 metres away. Walking back to my car, I stopped to watch a few surfers bobbing in a large swell and felt an enormous yearning to turn back and book it for a whole month.
Cost: The cottage has just been sold, so the rate is TBC – when I visited it was R1800 (sleeps six).
Contact: 0829218703



The absolute bargain

3. Tiffany’s Beach Cottage

Unlisted on TripAdvisor, Salt Rock

This little gem in sought-after Hewitt Drive offers an amazingly low rate given its proximity to the sea. Accommodation is basic but comfortable, combining the best aspects of outdoor living with the comforts of sleeping indoors: it’s a low-slung bungalow divided into three spaces – a kitchen (with a door to the back garden and extra loo) and two neat en-suite bedrooms; each room is entered off the long shaded verandah that is your communal living room and overlooks a large level garden with views of the ocean horizon. It’s just a block back (30 metres) from Tiffany’s, a great beach for swimming and surfing, and 500 metres from Salt Rock’s tidal pool. The house belongs to Cape-based Pierre Marais but is managed by his mother, Heleen, who lives nearby and is one of those wonderful natural-born hostesses who keeps the house ship-shape, the kitchen stocked with essentials (including fresh coffee beans, local curry powders, rusks) and generally ensures that every holiday here is a happy one.
Cost: R650 for two, R325 per person extra (sleeps four). Minimum two-night stay.
Contact: 0828701988, wheretostay.co.za

Best for a large group

4. Kla-G-Sukkel

Unlisted on TripAdvisor, Umdloti

This newly renovated house, located in the unspoilt residential part of Umdloti, is tucked away at the top of a panhandle off South Beach Road, the little lane that hugs the beach. It’s an elevated plot with a view from the covered verandah and smallish front garden of the sea horizon, but this choice is not so much about views as beach proximity (just across the road), easy-on-the-eye decor, a modern kitchen and bathrooms, and the fact that it has loads of space. The main house has five bedrooms and interleads to a duplex apartment with two bedrooms (both with sea views); this apartment can be rented separately or together with the main house. Aside from comfortably sleeping 14 in seven rooms, all en-suite so there’s no queueing to shower, most bedrooms are large enough to put in extra mattresses for kids, and the living spaces are generous enough to absorb a large party of friends or extended family. Very good value, too.
Cost: House from R3500 a night (sleeps 10 plus kids). Duplex from R1100 a night (sleeps four). The whole place from R4600.
Contact: 0827755228, wheretostay.co.za

Best value off the beach

5. Hilton House

Unlisted on TripAdvisor, Umdloti

Another great find in the undeveloped southern side of Umdloti, this cute cottage-style house is deceptively large, comprising five bedrooms and three bathrooms. Owner Roy Hilton has a great eye; the whole place reflects his cool, eclectic streak. He and partner Jo Perling live nearby and maintain it beautifully. They’ve also invested where it counts – according to online reviews, the quality of the mattresses is worth mentioning. Set a block back from Selection Beach (about three minutes’ walk down the hill), the front of the house has sea horizon views, especially from the big wooden deck, and there is a small kidney-shaped pool in the well-tended subtropical garden. There’s also a table-tennis room/bar, and a lime-green piano makes a great statement in the living room. It’s excellent value for money, and pets are welcome too.
Cost: From R2500 a night (sleeps 10). Minimum stay of two nights.
Contact: 0845681705, booking.com

Best garden apartments

6. Spindrift Guest House

TripAdvisor No. 1 Of 7 Speciality lodgings, Umdloti

On the edge of Umdloti, in a subtropical garden surrounded by indigenous forest filled with birds and monkeys, Judy Bean’s three compact self-catering units are not freestanding but peaceful enough to include. Sleeping between two and five, she charges according to the number of people staying, making it a good choice for solo travellers, couples or a small family. Of the three, Rainbird, located above her home, is the most charming, comprising two bedrooms, a dining- lounge-kitchen area and a small patio with wonderful sea views, and well furnished with pieces Judy has picked up in second-hand and antique shops. Kingfisher (a duplex in the garden with two bedrooms and an upstairs lounge with sea view) and Lourie (one bedroom with an open-plan lounge-kitchen) are adjacent to each other, making them a good combo if you need three bedrooms. Judy is one of those wonderful hostesses with an eye for detail and the sincerest of welcomes. She’ll provide breakfast for R70 per person.
Cost: Rainbird and Kingfisher from R960 for two (both sleep five). Loerie from R730 for two (sleeps three). Half price for children under 11. Daily housekeeping included.
Contact: spindriftguesthouse.co.za

Most luxurious stay

7. The Beach House Lodge

TripAdvisor listed but unrated, Salt Rock

This private-use house – a contemporary urban box virtually cantilevered over the beach – is hands down the most glamorous, luxurious option on this stretch of coast. Neighbouring Canelands Beach Club & Spa, it offers easy access to hotel facilities but you enjoy total privacy (and better decor). Designed by the same architect, it feels a lot like a luxury boutique hotel, with an airy, elegant living space that opens seamlessly onto a timber deck and pool, and enormous picture-perfect views of the beach and rolling breakers. Fittings and finishes are top notch; furniture choices cool minimalist. Every bedroom has a sea view and TV, so it’s easy to divvy between friends (there are four en-suite; a fifth is being added soon). The Salt Rock Hotel lies a few metres south and there are a few more restaurant choices up Shrimp Lane. You’re steps away from the beach; the main swimming area is 200 metres away. It’s not cheap but given the level of luxury and position, really rather good value.
Cost: From R6200 a night (sleeps eight). Minimum stay four nights, housekeeping included.
Contact: beachhouselodge.co.za

Worth a look

8. Greenfire Dolphin Coast Lodge

This is the best-value B&B on this stretch of coast. Clean, functional, funky decor, gorgeous sea views and a great management couple make Greenfire feel more like staying in someone’s home than a guesthouse. It’s on the ‘wrong’ side of Umdloti, but once you’ve driven north past all the concrete monstrosities, the road peters out into subtropical jungle – Greenfire is almost at the end of this lush cul-de-sac.
Room tip: Room 9 has the best view.
Contact: R1500 double B&B.
Contact: greenfire.co.za

9. Salt Rock Hotel

This place pushes all the nostalgia buttons – it was one of the first resorts built on this coast, and much of it remains architecturally untouched. If you like old-fashioned family hotels, this is for you; it has a pool, spa, ladies bar and beach bar. Book one of the standard duplex family rooms (which sleep up to five) on the sixth floor of the original hotel, or rooms 614 to 617 if you are only two people. All rooms have sea views.
Cost: From R900 per person sharing B&B (R1030 with buffet dinner); children pay less.
Contact: saltrockbeach.co.za

10. Canelands Beach Club & Spa

The boutique hotel right next door to glam Beach House Lodge (see left) might not be quite as classy in terms of decor, but it still offers the most amazing location – and arguably the best lap pool on KZN’s North Coast. It’s as intimate as a house, with just 10 en-suite bedrooms but only four (the Superior and Deluxe category) have sea views.
Cost: From R3220 double B&B, sea-facing room from R4485 double B&B.
Contact: thecanelands.co.za

Don’t miss this:

• A snorkelling safari with Tidal Tao (from R280 per person). tidaltao.com
• Sundowners with millions of barn swallows (November to April) at Mount Moreland, just inland from Umdloti. barnswallow.co.za
• Spotting dolphins, rays and whales (best in September and October) from the air. R450 for 15 minutes in a microlight. comefly.co.za
• The only ‘parazip’ line in SA (R399 per person) – like parasailing, but not… clubventure.co.za
• There are enough restaurants here to eat Italian all week, including long-timers Casa Nostra, Bel Punto, Al Pescatore and Gianni’s.
• The new Sunday picnic concert series at Sugar Rush Park. ballitobeats.co.za

Find more breathtaking beach cottages in the September Getaway issue.

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Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!