Next year, the Otter Trail, South Africa’s oldest and most popular hiking trail turns 50. We sent a first-timer, and then got her to interview some folk who have all done it differently.

Read on and choose the way that suits you best.

Also read:

• Can’t get on the Otter Trail? This is Plan B. 
• Photoblog: hiking the Otter Trail 
• Five multi-day hiking essentials

The Otter Trail: Vital Stats

There are many log stairs but there’s always something beautiful to look at from the top.

Opened January 1968

Total distance 45km

Time to complete Five days for hikers and about 10 hours for (normal) runners

Status Green Flag

Accommodation Rustic

Fitness Good technical hiking ability with moderate to good fitness required

The First-Timer: Melanie van Zyl

Getaway’s Melanie van Zyl on day three of the Otter Trail.

Age 26

Otters completed 1

Injuries 0 (unless you count hip chafe).

Highlight Spotting a Cape clawless otter.

Lowlight My backpack was too big, which meant I could pack too much.

Going again? In a heartbeat, but not without the advice from the regular hikers/runners listed below.

My team, a motley crew of moms and mates had all packed and unpacked, then repacked again about three times on a drizzly afternoon in Nature’s Valley. Nerves were high – both jitters and excitement. For all but one of us, the next morning would mark the start of our first Otter: 45 kays of quintessential coastline hiking along the shores of the Eastern and Western Cape.

I’d been looking forward to it for months, having begged and bargained my way onto very fit friend Alistair Jackson’s booking. He’d made it a year in advance (to the day, so it included a weekend and public holiday) knowing just he and his mother wanted to hike it. He anticipated little problem filling up the other spots, and he was right. Just 12 people can hike each daily section of the trail and the only time you’re likely to bump into others is on the first day when day-trippers can walk to the beautiful ocean-side waterfall.

Team photograph at sunset on day two of the Otter Trail.

The following morning we gather for a team photo next to a signpost that marks the beginning of the trail above the Tsitsikamma forest – all smiles, clean clothes and big bags. Next to it is the Otter meeting room. Inside, I weigh my backpack on a scale that looks like a meat hook hanging from one of the beams. The needle locks position at 20 kilograms. That’s flippen heavy for a woman my size. Experts recommend carrying no more than a quarter of your weight, making mine six kilos too heavy. Admittedly, I had also packed a papsak of red wine, camera gear to shoot this story and a few fancy foods (sun-dried tomato pesto sachets and biltong spread – luxuries by hiking standards).

Finding small treasures and rocky gorges at the huts on day 2 of the Otter Trail. Each hut on the trail is based at a lagoon for fresh water.

I properly regret that extra weight on the second day when the uphills and downhills are equally immense. At times, log stairs ascend relentlessly, step after step after step. Apparently, there are 7 000 of them, and those are just the ones going up. The day is tough for everyone, but at the end of it we’re having sundowners around a warm fire beside two beach cottages at the Geelhoutbos River mouth, under a sky dripping with the kind of colours you’d find in a cocktail. Our hearts are full and we feel euphoric. Two oystercatchers even join us. That night I eat more, not because of an appetite but to free up packed weight, and I make sure to put a good dent in that papsak.

Find beautiful Black oystercatchers and fairy-like forest light along the Otter Trail.

It gets easier in the days that follow: my pack lightens, my legs find their strength and special sights keep spirits up. The Bloukrans River crossing is the only other big concern. Steeped in myth and fear, it’s the legend of the Otter Trail. Ultimately, it’s easy for us. An early start means we arrive at low tide, stuff our packs into giant survival bags and carry them awkwardly across the rocky river. The hardest part, actually, is climbing the boulders and crags on the other side. All too quickly, the fifth and last day of the trail meanders to an end on the beautiful Blue Flag beach at Nature’s Valley.

Looking down at the gorgeous blue ocean from a peak before climbing the stairs down to Nature’s Valley.

In five days we’d spotted a lone otter slinking into the ocean from the shores of the rooibos-coloured Elandsbos River, walked through amazing fynbos fields with bright blooms I wish I knew the names of, and delved into damp forests, carefully navigating slippery roots. Although my muscles ached, the beauty and variety of the trail kept us eager to continue exploring this pristine, wild coastline, where a formidable ocean meets the land.

Advice from Melanie’s team

From left to right, Melanie’s team: Scott Bateman, Joan Pickup, Jason Higgins (kneeling), Janet Simpkins, Warrick Haskell, Phillipa Rowney, Alistair Jackson (kneeling), Patrick Jackson, Bridget Bateman, Chloe Smith and the writer.

Janet Simpkins, 34  You need to be fitter than you think. I’m fit, I can walk the distances easily but those first two days were a wake-up call.

Scott Bateman, 28  It’s tougher than the distances lead you to believe – do a bit of training beforehand and pack less clothes than you think you need.

Phillipa Rowney, 61 Use a hydration bladder. It’s easier than trying to retrieve a bottle out of your pack each time you want to drink.

Bridget Bateman, 57  Spend money on decent shoes. I loved my amazingly comfortable Adidas hiking boots. They were like slippers.

Alistair Jackson, 26  Favourite snacks were home-made trail mix, dark chocolate oats bars and small 50ml bottles of Amarula at night.

Also read: Gear I loved using on the Otter Trail

The Runners

A snapshot of the Otter Trail Run (the Retto in 2016)

The Otter African Trail Run Classic takes place every second year at the end of October (every other year the route is run in reverse and called the ‘Retto’). Dubbed ‘the Grail of Trail’ the route is precisely the right distance (42km) to make it a marathon, except one that includes four river crossings, 11 significant climbs and has a Trail Factor of 2,0 – meaning that running this race can take twice as long as the equivalent distance on a road. Here are two athletes who’ve done it

1. Robyn Owen

Robyn Owen on the Otter African Trail Run in 2016

Age 26

Otters Completed 2

Injuries 0

Highlight Running through the flowering fynbos along the top of the high cliffs that drop into the sea.

Lowlight In either direction, the last five to 10 km are the hardest, when I’m already tired.

Best 1st place (2016) in 4 hours and 49 minutes.

‘The trail was even more beautiful and pristine than I had imagined,’ says Robyn. ‘A stretch of coastline that long with so little sign of human presence is very special. You can’t beat the setting: endless views of the rugged coastline, aromatic fynbos combined with sea breeze, and the airy feel created by the massive drop below you’.

‘It was the hardest race of my life. I never thought I could sustain the level of intensity to stay at the pace up front. There are endless ups and downs, so the trail is a lot harder than the relatively short distances sound. Hikers should carry just enough to be comfortable and safe – and wearing slightly smelly clothes is okay! If you’re running, don’t carry more than the mandatory gear. I was thankful for my running shoes but everything else was just extra weight. You can top up on energy at the halfway munchie point – the nougat bars were my favourite snack on the race. However, had I encountered a problem on the route I might have been very grateful for my jacket, warm top, emergency blanket and extra food. I was lucky enough not to need to be grateful for it.

Delicate fynbos and endless sea views from the Otter Trail.

‘My training is probably focused more than I like to admit on my goal to win races, but the reason I do it all is largely as an excuse to spend time outdoors in beautiful wild areas. I’m fascinated by nature and interested in the geology, plants, animals and air movement, and how they interact.’

Will you do it again? ‘Yes. I loved the Otter Run and will definitely do it again – hopefully this year – but I would also love to hike the route over five days to have more time to take it all in.’

Robyn’s tip Include a fair amount of interval training and hill-repeats in your weekly training programme, which should consist of long slow runs, a few shorter hour-long runs, hikes and mountain exploring missions.

2. Thabang Madiba

Thabang Madiba cruising through the water on the Otter African Trail Run.

Age 31

Otters Completed 4

Injuries 0

Highlight Crossing the Bloukrans River… and Nature’s Valley – that’s always awesome!

Lowlight  Running over the big boulders just outside Storm Rivers Mouth. It’s hard because you’re already tired when you get there.

Best 2nd place (2014) in 4 hours and 24 minutes.

The up-runs, especially towards the end, always pose a challenge, says Thabang. ‘My racing pack (a Salomon S-LAB Advanced Skin 12 Set) is a lifesaver because I can carry enough food and hydration for the whole race – I’d rather use a bigger pack that’s easy to carry than a small pack that limits me to just the compulsory kit. It’s always best to have the right stuff, especially for trail running. For example: a rain jacket and pants, food, space blanket and enough water. If it starts to rain or your blood sugar level drops or you spend more hours than expected on a trail, that’s when you’re going to need it.

The first look at the dreaded (but beautiful) Bloukrans River crossing on day three of the Otter Trail.

‘In last year’s race I felt sick around the 19-kilometre mark. I was running with Marc Lauenstein and Kane Reilly and was forced to stop. Pulling out was the last resort. I took a 20-minute nap in the second part of the race and walked the last bit.’ [It took him seven hours to complete the course.]

Will you do it again?  ‘I will do it again and again until I win it. So far I’ve had two podium finishes. I’m also keen to do the hike with my son some day.’

Also read: Even heroes take naps

The Regulars

I met Henk and Marlene Liebenberg in 2015 when we walked the Tankwa Camino together. Henk audits walking trails, awarding the best with Green Flag Status (the ultimate accolade). Both the Tankwa Camino and the Otter have that status. Fiona McIntosh knows about hiking – she’s authored several books about it. She enjoyed walking the Otter Trail so much she decided to run it too. Here’s why they keep coming back.

1. Henk and Marlene Liebenberg

Henk and Marlene Liebenberg.

Age 62 and 60 respectively

Otters Completed 0 (only in sections) and 3 respectively

Highlight The second day – the scenery from the various viewpoints and also Bloubaai, make it the best

Lowlight Neither of them can think of a single one.

Surprisingly, Henk has never done the full Otter Trail trail in one go, but he regularly walks the shorter daily routes to check up on them and ‘to assess the environmental conditions as well as safety along the trail. Green Flag status ensures sustainable trails in terms of conservation of the environmental resources as well as the quality of experience had by hikers’. In the Tsitsikamma section of the Garden Route National Park, 11 hiking trails have Green Flag status.

Epic views from Oakhurst huts, where you spend the third night on the Otter Trail. Just when you think the locations can’t get better – they do.

Marlene is an honorary Garden Route National Park ranger and nature guide. ‘I hike with trekking poles and always take duct tape, while Henk is responsible for the GPS and camera,’ she says. Marlene also packs sanitary towels which she uses as a cushion for blisters: ‘The best thing I’ve discovered in all my 30 years of hiking!’

Will you do it again? ‘Again and again. There is something of everything a hiker loves.’

2. Fiona McIntosh

Fiona McIntosh sitting at the waterfall on the first leg of the Otter Trail.

Age 56

Otters Completed 3 (two hikes and one run)

Highlight The open stretch along the cliff and down to Nature’s Valley

Lowlight Watching fellow hikers braai on the first night. I’d packed trail food; they had steaks and roast veg.

‘I can’t start the day without a good coffee,’ says Fiona, so she always packs her Jetboil stove and coffee press. ‘Leave the booze behind (sage advice I wish I’d heard before I packed that papsak!) and go for dehydrated foods such as two-minute noodles. Throw the avouring packs away and use fresh salad/herbs to spice them up. Carry a few luxuries like a tiny plastic bottle of olive oil, tasty nuts and biltong. Take it really slowly and enjoy the moment.’

Looking from a fynbos ridge over the ocean. This is the beginning of the open stretch along a cliff before it winds down to Nature’s Valley.

On running it, she says she really didn’t remember the trail as having that many climbs. ‘This has to be the most spectacular trail run in the world, and the organisers had thought of everything to minimise the impact on the natural environment and to make our experience as enjoyable and safe as possible. But it’s certainly not for sissies!’

The biggest difference between the run and the hike, she says, is the fact that you can run the trail with just a small pack, because water is provided and all you need are some bars or snacks. ‘So you can really enjoy skipping over the rocks – much easier without a big pack! If you’re packing for just eight or nine hours, it’s a different ball game.’

Fiona has also had the privilege of meeting the legendary Popo Scott, or ‘Uncle Popo’. He helped in laying out the Otter Trail in 1967, and is still involved in the park.

Will you do it again? ‘The hike? Yes. Tomorrow. The run? Well, my golden rule is don’t do anything twice!’

Getting there

Storms River Mouth is 190km west of Port Elizabeth on the N2. Turn left about 8km after Storms River Bridge.

Best time to go

It depends on which conditions you prefer: December to February tend to be the hottest, May to September the coldest, and it’s most likely to rain the most and hardest in August.

Transfers

We left our cars at De Vasselot Rest Camp in Nature’s Valley and took a transfer back to Storms River Mouth. From R100 per person for eight to 12 passengers. geckotours.co.za

Exploring the rocks and lagoon pools at sunset.

Walk the Otter Trail

The Otter Trail is five days and four nights, from Storms River Mouth to Nature’s Valley. At each overnight camp there are two huts sleeping six each on two triple-bunk beds. There’s a central lapa for cooking or chilling around the fire. Hikers need to bring sleeping bags, cooking equipment and food.

It’s best to get a group of 12 together and book the whole trail, but you can book as a group of six to secure one cabin, and there are also single spots available. It costs R1150 per person, plus a daily conservation fee of R45 (waived if you have a Wild Card). Book well in advance – up to a year – to secure your desired spot. There is no waiting list, but keep checking online for cancellations. sanparks.org

Need to know

There are rain tanks at each camp with drinking water. You’ll be briefed on water usage at the start (pack biodegradable soap), and this includes which rivers and streams you can drink from. Firewood is provided, but it’s not covered and can be wet on arrival, so don’t bank on it. I wouldn’t call the trail extreme but you need to be prepared, fit enough for the uphills and nimble enough to clamber over rocks.

Making a braai at one of the camps along the Otter Trail – because nights are for fires and discussing the day’s walk.

Do this

1. Take a short stroll across the Storm’s River suspension bridge before you start the trail.

2. Stop for lunch at the Jerling River waterfall on Day 1 (this is at the end of the Waterfall Trail walked by day hikers).

3. Have a braai on the first night – it’s a short day and you can afford to carry a little extra.

4. Find the path to Bloubaai Beach on Day 2 (the toughest). We saw the path to it from the lookout at the top of a very long climb but nobody in our group was keen to descend again to find it.

5. Pack food away properly if you plan to leave your backpack anywhere – it will be ransacked by baboons!

6. Look for Cape clawless otters on Day 3 on the far bank of the Elandsbos River – your best chance of a sighting.

7. Make the Bloukrans River crossing easy by checking the tides ahead of time (tides4fishing.com) and pack a headlamp in case you have to make an early start to get there when it’s at its lowest. Buy a waterproof survival bag to seal your backpack. R120, capeunionmart.co.za

8. Take it easy on the final day. This last stretch is beautiful and goes fairly quickly despite the longer distance.

The last stretch to the end of the Otter Trail is an easy trundle along Nature’s Valley beach.

Stay here

For accommodation before and after the trail, Rattrays Cottage in Nature’s Valley is a beautiful self-catering beach house with six rooms, and easily had space for our whole group with four bunk beds to spare. It comes with beach chairs, body boards, umbrellas and paddle skis. From R3000 per day. 0346421843, naturesvalley.fugitivesdrift.com

Run the Otter Trail

Bookings for the Otter African Trail Run Classic 2017 (in October) are full, but there is a waiting list. Keep an eye on the Facebook page to check when entries open for the Retto in 2018. The race has four categories:

The Run covers the full trail and must be completed in under eight hours (R4600).

The Challenge also covers the full trail but is ‘more social’ – it can be completed in under 11 hours (R4300).

The Dassie is a 10km trail race along a section of the route (R220).

The RockRat is a 6km dash (R180). otter.run

This gorgeous waterfall isn’t just for multi-day hikers. You can do it in a day hike from Storms River Mouth.

Taste the Otter Trail

If you’re in two minds about tackling the full Otter, do the Waterfall Trail – a 6km day hike from Storms River Mouth. It’s an excellent example of the type of terrain on the full trail – rocky shores and forest stairs. It takes roughly three hours to do the round trip, but pack a picnic and you can make a day of it. R45 per person conservation fee. sanparks.org

There’s a stretch of coastline between the Tsitsikamma and Port Alfred that’s said to get more hours of sunlight than the rest of South Africa. Veer off the N2 to find unspoilt holiday spots in the Sunshine Coast.

The writer, Melanie, at the Storms River Mouth Lookout.

I once took the N2’s Tsitsikamma turn off to sneak a quick peek at Storms River Mouth. I had a Wild Card so entry was free, and I drove around the coastal campsite on a brief recce. That was all it took to ignite a hankering for more, and I’ve been secretly plotting to return ever since.

Roughly five years later, I make it back to the camp. A bushbuck skips over the road in front of me as I drive down the winding pass to the sea. My first mission is to visit the famous suspension bridge that crosses the dark and moody river – a good tick off my personal South African bucket list.

The iconic suspension bridge across the Storms River, where it meets the sea.

The loops on the bridge’s fence are covered with love locks and the views are spectacular. I sit down on a driftwood log on the rocky shore below the bridge. There’s a slight wind and the twilight is a dreamy golden hue that I find difficult to leave, but I must. The national park is closing and my lodgings are a short drive away. I head back to the N2, watching the sunset disappear in the rear-view mirror.

Sunset on the N2 between Storms River Mouth and Tsitsikamma Village.

It is also curiosity that pulls me into Storms River Village, which I envisioned as a sky of the green forest instead of blue and the gruff calls of the Knysna turaco to welcome me. The reality’s not far off. Tsitsikamma Village Inn is a quaint arrangement of historical buildings making up a diverse set of accommodation options – the nautical- themed Arniston Fishing Cottages are my favourite. I opt to have supper at the restaurant on site: a decadent helping of creamy salmon pasta with locally brewed Woodcutters Ale.

More foreigners than South Africans visit this little adventure village, according to the operators, and this is where I’ll start exploring the Sunshine Coast, driving towards Port Alfred. This stretch of ocean supposedly sees the most sunshine in South Africa and has warm waters, and I want to find its sheltered coves.

A trip back in time at Marilyn’s ’60s diner.

The following morning I check the map over breakfast at the very pink restaurant next door to the Inn – I couldn’t leave without visiting the themed diner. Marilyn Monroe memorabilia adorns the walls and beside her is Elvis. A sign reads: ‘The ’60s was noisy, deal with it’.

With a plan in mind, I hop onto the N2 and stop at the nearby Total to grab a coffee to go with the delectable R6 brownie I got at the Village Inn. As far as garages go, this one definitely has the best view, perched beside the Storms River Bridge. Then, just as I hit the 120km/h zone, I take the offramp onto the R102. I saw little reason to stick to the highway and it was only 100 kilometres to my first night’s accommodation at Oyster Bay Lodge. A local at the village had recommended I stick to the N2 because some of the back roads are badly potholed, but he didn’t strike me as an off-the-beaten-track type, so I did it anyway.

The rooms at Oyster Bay Lodge are private and comfortable; a cheeseburger and ginger beer for breakfast at Marilyn’s ’60s Diner.

After seven kays I regret it. There are potholes all right, and big ones – camouflaged against the dappled shade. However, it wasn’t all bad, as I stumbled across Oudebosch Farm Stall, a sanctuary of warm roosterkoek. From here I take a gravel pass through the Tsitsikamma community wind farm, passing the white giants in the sky, and stay on gravel all the way.

Oyster Bay is a coastal hamlet neighbouring the more popular St Francis Bay. You can only get there by dirt road and although it’s a little rutted in places, I easily navigated it in the small Renault. My main reason to visit is the name – I wanted to see my first African black oystercatchers, one of South Africa’s most threatened bird species. They can live up to 35 years, and also a pair for life, which appeals to the romantic in me. It’s a bit of a walk to the beach from Oyster Bay, but it’s a gorgeous bay with a picturesque yet wild lagoon snaking its way into the sea and impressive sand dunes that slope down too.

Duck, duck, goose? Nope gulls and oystercatchers at the lagoon below Oyster Bay Lodge.

I spy several sets of oystercatchers in the orange afternoon, sandwiched between bigger seagulls, and spot only two other walkers on the wide beach. In the distance, I can see the small hamlet roughly three kilometres away. Dinner at Seagrass Restaurant and Bar is delicious and I trust the chef enough to ask for travel advice. ‘To me, Cape St Francis is far prettier and less commercial than St Francis Bay. Seal Point is my favourite.’ I ask about the roads. ‘Gravel is the shortest way, but it’s pretty potholed…’

Again, I did it anyway, and missed the turn-off to Cape St Francis, ending up in Humansdorp. It’s still a bit of a drive ahead of me to Addo Elephant Park and don’t have time to about-face. I skip past J-Bay and about 45 kilometres away from Oyster Bay there’s a perfect view of the wide, perfect-looking beaches from the R102.

I follow this road towards the Gamtoos River and find myself in a beautiful valley on a road that twists and corners with no lay-by to speak of, only wild flowers. Later on, when looking at the map, I see it’s called Van Stadens Pass. Another 20 kilometres and I hit a crossroads. Uitenhage or PE? I opt for Port Elizabeth and the N2 because it means I can grab a pie at Nanaga Farm Stall like I used to do when I studied in Grahamstown.

Worth-the-drive-pie at Nanaga; day visitors can tour the cute little Great Fish Point lighthouse.

Home tonight is the lesser-known stretch of Addo, where the park meets the sea in a gathering of high and wide dunes known as the Alexandria Dune Field. This dune sea, as it’s also known, is the largest and least degraded in the whole southern hemisphere, stretching over 15 800 hectares, with its widest point being five kilometres from the sea. To explore them a little, I’m staying at Langebos Huts in the Woody Cape area. The gates don’t close so you can come and go as you please, which means glorious golden-hour shots along the ocean. Sadly, the weather isn’t playing along, but the impressive dunes do not disappoint and I’ve made a mental promise to return some day for the two-night hike that crosses them.

Forest engulfs the Langebos Huts in the Woody Cape (coastal) section of the Addo Elephant National Park.

Leaving Woody Cape on the gravel road towards Kenton the next morning, there’s the best view in the rear-view mirror: less than a kilometre from the turn-off to Woody Cape Backpackers, I get a true sense of the scale of these incredible dunes.

My last tick off the list of Sunshine Coast treasures is to spend a night in a lighthouse. Well, next door to one. The Great Fish Point lighthouse was built back in 1898 and sits about 800 metres from the shoreline. Since the light has been automated, the keeper’s house is now available to rent.

You get your own private beach when you spend a night beside the Great Fish Lighthouse.

There are some beautiful beaches to see on the way (see page 54), but I soon veer off the coastal course to try out the ‘poor man’s game drive’ just before Kenton. The route passes the fences of big private game reserves, but there’s also a public transit road that cuts right through the middle of Sibuya Game Reserve, where I see giraffe, herds of wildebeest, impala and what look like blesbok in the distance. All free.

Giraffe spotted on the Poor Man’s Game Drive which cuts right through Sibuya Game Reserve outside Kenton.

From here it’s an easy drive past the popular seaside towns of Kenton-on-Sea and Port Alfred before hitting the last bit of road-trip gravel and the four-kilometre stretch to the lighthouse. It’s smaller than I thought it would be, but I have my own private beach with epic sea views.

The Sunshine Coast turned out to be not so sunny for me, but as I think back along the route I realise this run of coastline is pretty extraordinary anyway. Perhaps that is its real attraction.

Follow the sunshine

Day 1: Storms River Mouth to Oyster Bay

Distance 94km Allow 3 hours

Visit Storms River Mouth Rest Camp in the early morning, or even the evening before to grab the golden hour at the suspension bridge (1). After breakfast at Marilyn’s ‘60s Diner (3) – right next door to the Tsitsikamma Village Inn (2) – head onto the N2, then veer off again after 34km (to avoid the potholes) onto the R102 and pull in at Oudebosch Farm Stall (4). You can relax here for a bit because it’s only another 50km to Oyster Bay Lodge (5). From the farm stall, stay on the R102 and follow the wind farms for 25km. Turn right at the sign that says ‘Witkleibos’ and follow Google Maps to Oyster Bay Lodge – roads are a little rutted but the GPS is correct.

Day 2: Oyster Bay to Woody Cape

Distance 230km Allow 5 – 6 hours.

Leave Oyster Bay after breakfast and head towards Humansdorp – you’ll hit tar after about 4km. Pass through the town and stay on the R102 through Jeffreys Bay. You’ll pass the old railway at Thornhill Station and sweep through a pass before seeing Van Stadens Wild Flower Reserve at the 80km mark – have a little drive around if the season is good. After another 20km, head back onto the N2. Bypass Port Elizabeth, drive past the signs to Addo (Colchester section) and take the R72 offramp from the highway to stop at Nanaga Farm Stall (6), roughly 60km later.

Have lunch and stock up on home-made goods to have for dinner. Remain on the R72 and stop at Oakly Farm Stall (7) too, 32km on, for firewood and amazing juice. Turn right onto a dirt track after 15km and it’s just another 10km to Langebos Huts for the night (8). Park at Woody Cape Backpackers (another 8km drive) to see the Alexandria dunes (9).

Day 3: Woody Cape to Great Fish Point lighthouse

Distance 110km Allow 3 – 4 hours

Work the string of beaches (see box on page 54) into your trip today, or just choose one. Leave Langebos Huts and drive the straight gravel road to Cannon Rocks and Boknesstrand before you hit the R72 (roughly 33km from Addo). Set your odometer to zero and turn left onto the R72 to try the poor man’s game drive (11): turn right after 16,5km and follow the gravel road for 10km (you’ll cross the Bushmans River and the R343), then find the Sibuya Game Reserve gates in front of you – drive about 8km through the reserve.

Head out the other gate, keep right and follow this road for 8km back to the R72. If you’re hungry, retrace your route to Kenton and try The House Kitchen (10). Otherwise, turn left and go straight for 42km to the Great Fish Point lighthouse (12) for the last night’s stay.

Three beautiful beaches on the Sunshine Coast 

Wide and empty Boknesstrand, where Bartolomeu Dias planted a cross in 1488.

1. Cannon Rocks borders directly on the Woody Cape section of the Addo Elephant National Park and is world-famous as a kiteboarding destination.

2. Boknesstrand has a lagoon and quiet, open sands. It’s also in the pilot stage of becoming a blue-flag beach.

3. Shelly Bay Beach at Kenton- on-Sea requires a little local knowledge to find: you park at the end of Westbourne Road, walk as straight as you can to the vegetated dune and you’ll find a tunnel through the forest; emerge in a dune valley. Keep right and walk towards the ‘cliffs’. It takes about 10 minutes.

Directory

Dairy farms line the road between Woody Cape and Boknes.

1. Storms River Mouth suspension bridge. It’s an easy walk from the reception at the rest camp and it makes for an iconic photo opportunity. Entry to the park is R49 per person. 0422811607.

2. Tsitsikamma Village Inn. There are various accommodation options available here – from Victorian cottages to sea-themed units – and it’s number one on TripAdvisor. B&B from R685 per person sharing. 0422811711

3. Marilyn’s ‘60s Diner. A quirky food stop with affordable breakfast for R48 and great milkshakes for R30. 0422811711

4. Oudebosch Farm Stall. Stop for fresh, hot roosterkoek (R10) and homebrewed ginger beer (from R9) made the way it should be, with a raisin and sediment on the bottom). There’s a jungle gym for kids. 0422850562

5. Oyster Bay Lodge. This Fair Trade Tourism-certified lodge is set up on a dune overlooking the lagoon. You can go sandboarding or horse riding along the beach. It’s quiet (maximum 14 guests) and the road is a little out of the way, making for ideal solitude. B&B from R900 per person sharing. 0422970150

6. Nanaga Farm Stall. Eat a homemade pie with salad and chips (R50) at the restaurant, and get a takeaway pie for dinner (R18). There’s also vanilla farm milk (from R6,50), Wagyu beef patties (R115 for four) and delectable lemon meringue pie (R16,50). 0414680353

7. Oakly Farm Stall. Stop here for delicious pineapple juice (from R15 a bottle), grown locally. It’s also sold at Nanaga, but I preferred to support them directly. 0721016885

8. Langebos Huts. Although they’re not close to the dunes like the backpackers, these two affordable huts are far superior and set in a forest with a central firepit. They are booked together so you’ll have the camp to yourself. Sleeps eight. From R1315 for four people and R240 per person extra. 0414680916

9. Alexandria dune field. Park your car at Woody Cape Backpackers for the closest point of departure to take the boardwalk and see the immense dune field. 0861114646

10. The House Kitchen. It looks like a décor shop from the outside but it’s a super-trendy café that could be on Cape Town’s Bree Street. I had a great coffee and Mediterranean toast for R80. 0466481786

11. The poor man’s game drive. Check road conditions with the local tourism office before you go as it might get a bit hairy after rain. 046-648-2411

12. Great Fish Point lighthouse. Make sure you have cash to pay for a tour (R16 per adult, R8 per child under 12). There are twin cottages that each sleep six, with a braai area, pool and play area. From R750 per cottage for four and R150 per person extra. 0214492400

Map

The Dolomites in Italy’s South Tyrol are an exquisite and comfortingly safe environment for new and experienced hikers. Our food editor and Brandon de Kock tried it out. Photographs by Brandon de Kock.

The Dolomites, known as the Pale Mountains, change colour with the time of day and the season.

‘Come,’ said the 60-something blonde Berliner, beckoning me into the hall. ‘I have something to show you – it’s like cowbell but not.’ She was referencing the bell that signals dinner at Pension Briol, one of the unspoken codes all guests (except us) seemed to know about because they’d been coming here for generations. Hesitantly, I followed. ‘It gets cold at night so you will need one of these,’ she said, lifting a wool blanket to reveal a pile of hot-water bottles. ‘You can take two,’ she added with a smile.

I still don’t know their names but she and her brother, also guests, took it upon themselves to initiate us in the ways of Briol. It was our first night in a mountain hut and our first night in South Tyrol, a province in Italy’s northern extremes that’s home to the Dolomite range. On mentioning we were from South Africa, Berliner number two look astonished.
‘Quatsch!’ he exclaimed, which can mean anything from ‘rubbish’ to ‘bullshit’ depending on the context.
‘Is it not beautiful enough?’ Fair point. Why did we travel 2000 kilometres to be immersed in nature?

A wooden sign points the way; in our bedroom at Briol.

That’s a question Brandon (The Love of My Life) kept asking too. I’m a keen runner but he’s more au fait with ambling, and I’d persuaded him a few days in the Dolomites was a good idea because it’s a World Heritage Site and there would be vineyards (read Riesling) en route.

I picked our first stop, Pension Briol, based on heritage and design. We were fresh off an urban food-hunting adventure but here’s the rub: hiking is how you access Briol, and we had wheelie suitcases in tow. Did I mention we don’t really hike?

The alternative – Taxi Torggler – appeared to be an octogenarian in an SUV with F1 aspirations. He wore dark glasses, a khaki cap emblazoned with a red-knitted square and ‘taxi’ embroidered in white, and met us at the skew church spire in Barbiano, the town below. For 20 euros he deposited our luggage at the pension while we tackled the relentless incline. Clearly, we wouldn’t be making many return trips. Finally, when the foliage cleared, an alpine nymph in dirndl and Nikes welcomed us with a grappa – things were looking up.

Briol’s spartan rooms, with scrubbed spruce floors and 1920s light switches and lampshades, felt part convent, part grandparents’ holiday home. (Communal bathrooms are a great leveller and I got used to exchanging nods with a woman from Zurich when we met on the landing, clutching our toiletry bags.) Briol’s guests usually open a deck chair in the meadow or head up the Rittner Horn mountain. We opted for a gentle stroll to the waterfall.

Hikers setting off for the day from Schatzerhutte; Daniel Pescollderungg and his wife Debir are part of the Schatzerhutte team.

Our second location, Schatzerhütte, has a reputation for good food. It lay beyond the vista we could see from our balcony at Briol and higher, at about 2000 metres. I came across it as most people do, by word of mouth.

If finding Briol was a challenge, so was initiating contact with Schatzerhütte. There is a website but no email and bookings are taken by telephone only. Fortunately a kind, English-speaking waitress called Maria answered my call. This time we were collected at no charge from the parking lot by Daniel Pescollderungg, a tall, strawberry-blonde ski instructor wearing a royal-blue apron tied just under his rib cage. His puppyish enthusiasm was engaging and if he’s that happy working the off-season, I’d love to see him at ‘play’ on the slopes.

Daniel welcomed us in English but is fluent in German, Italian, Portuguese and Ladin – South Tyrol’s official language. Historically South Tyrol fell under Austrian rule so when you enter the province, toll officials say ‘Danke’ not ‘Grazie’ and ‘grüß Gott’ is the common greeting. The German clientele, who clearly feel quite at home here, enjoy hiking from hut to hut, said Daniel. But since driving from winery to winery is more Brandon’s speed, he advised us to follow the Italian modus operandi – take the ski lift, admire the view and return for lunch.

We found owner Franz Pernthaler, a Cordon Bleu-trained chef, at his wood-fired oven between jars of pine-cone-infused zirbenschnaps and the wooden mill where he grinds rye flour for sourdough. Franz has bright turquoise eyes, a gentle manner and a sing-song ‘hmmm-mmm’ to let you know he’s listening. Since his uncle handed over Schatzerhütte 35 years ago, he’s built a water turbine and chalets made from zirbel or Swiss stone pine. The aromatic oils in this wood, explained Franz, have a calming effect, lowering heart rate and improving sleep.

In the cosy, pine-panelled dining room parents play spirited card games with their children and friends toast each other, but the atmosphere is most joyous when guests cram in for dinner. It might start with warm slices of Franz’s whole grain loaf spiced with nutmeg, pepper, coriander, anise and caraway, moving onto a haunch of lamb cooked for hours until tender but still pink and rolled in fresh herbs before carving, and finishing with an almond soufflé all puffed up over a bed of berries.

The view that greets you at Schatzerhutte. This is the Aferer Geisler, a group of mountains in the Dolomites.

During the day, Schatzerhütte is a pit stop for passing hikers who lunch al fresco at wooden tables turned grey by sunshine and snow, ordering Franz’s elderflower cordial by the tray. We joined the happy crowd with our books and soaked up the soporific effect of the afternoon rays, staring at a head-on view of the Aferer Geisler. Their festive mood planted a seed. Were we missing out? And by the time they’d gathered their Nordic walking sticks and donned their felt hats, we’d resolved to tackle the four-hour Panoramaweg the following morning.

After breakfast hikers of all levels dispersed on different routes. Young families set out on the flatter paths connecting alpine-lodge refreshment stations and seasoned hikers in neon Lycra and earmuffs embarked on the eight-hour Günther Messner Trail. Franz handed us a worn folded map. Daniel winked and waved us goodbye, promising he’d have a Forst draught waiting for Brandon on our return. We set out alongside a woman, until our paths parted ways and we began our hike, heaving slow, rasping breaths.

In true Teutonic style, the routes are clearly marked with well-maintained red-and-white pointers. This wouldn’t be a repeat of the Kirstenbosch contour path when on asking a passing local for directions he informed us we were already on it. All we had to do was follow the signs, and they appeared with reassuring regularity. I started to relax. With each changing view, we were emboldened to see what lay around the next corner, to go further and, eventually, to reach the top.

The magnitude of the grey rock face, jutting out jagged and square, gave me vertigo. Mountains were stacked layer upon layer, and beyond that, snow-capped peaks as far as the eye could see. On Mount Plose we hit a snow belt and were now warm enough to have shed a few layers. Plose is considered Italy’s best mineral water by some, so we celebrated the good fortune of being at source by scooping up icy handfuls and quenching our thirst with ‘free mountain lollies’, as Brandon nicknamed them. The endorphins had kicked in. As we descended on a slippery slope of pine needles, I vowed to return a more accomplished hiker.

Photo by Brandon De Kock.

By sunset, I’d experienced an exhilarating combination of natural beauty, high altitude, pristine air and Aperol Spritz. And when we took our place at dinner, freshly showered and rosy cheeked, I felt fully entitled to seconds of osso bucco with creamy whole grain polenta from Trentino and – a nod to South Tyrol’s Austrian influence – sauerkraut on the side.

I scanned the room for the woman we’d started out with and was relieved to find her waving at me. For our fellow European travellers, a lone hiker’s worst fate is injury. I now had the answer for my Berliner: travelling here afforded me not just a change of scenery but a real sense of safety, and for South Africans that is true luxury.

That night I climbed under a duvet cover that reminded me of something my mum might pull out if I came to stay. Feeling content and completely at home, I inhaled deeply and was reminded of Franz’s words: zirbel never loses its scent, even after hundreds of years. Drifting off to the distant clanging of cowbells from the valley below, my mind wandered. I remembered an inscription we’d seen along our path and willed myself to remember it long after I was back home. ‘I wish you time, not time for haste and running, but time so you may feel at peace.’

Plan your trip:

Cost of trip 
The trip cost R15000 for two excluding flights.

 
Getting there
We flew with Emirates to Milan (R8500 return) for our food adventure, which took us on a road trip to Bologna, and then we tacked on six nights in South Tyrol for a bit of R&R. To get there, we hired a car from Sunny Cars for about R500 per day and drove to Barbiano (3.5 hours). emirates.com, sunnycars.com

 
When to go
The autumn months of September and October when the skies are mostly clear and the air is cool.

 
Need to know
South Africans need a Schengen visa to enter Italy (R915 for adults, R534 for minors). A working knowledge of German or Italian is advisable. Having our own transport made it easier – we could lock our excess luggage in the boot when we had to access more remote huts on foot. Hiking boots are preferable but on the advice of Getaway’s Deputy Editor, Tyson Jopson, I wore my running shoes with hiking socks for support, which worked well for a first foray into hiking. Some places are only open for the summer or winter season. At both places we stayed, cell-phone reception was limited and there was no Wi-Fi. For more information on South Tyrol, transport and accommodation, see suedtirol.info/en

 
Stay here
Pension Briol has been preserved and maintained by the women of one family since it was built in 1928. We stayed in Haupthaus (the original main house) where there is no heating or curtains in the rooms and bathrooms are shared. Down the hill are House Settari apartments, which have kitchenettes, ensuite bathrooms and heating. Hike up or call Taxi Torggler (about R300 one way; +390471650004. Pension Briol opens from 27 April to 22 October 2017. From R1200 per person including a Continental breakfast buffet, lunch salad buffet and three- course dinner (excluding wine and drinks). briol.it 

Schatzerhütte was built in 1926 by owner Franz Pernthaler’s grandfather. We took a spacious private chalet that had heating, a shower and toilet. There was also a loft bed (perfect for children). Hike up or arrange to be collected. From R1018 per person for two sharing including a Continental breakfast and three-course dinner (excluding wine and drinks). schatzerhuette.com

This story first appeared in the March 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our March issue features a self-catering trip to the Seychelles that you can afford, a secret Karoo retreat, learning to fly-fish in Rhodes and a Joburg road trip for beer lovers. 

The next time you head out for a road-trip or hike, consider these three sandwich recipes. They are delicious, filling and will remain super-fresh for anything between two to five hours without turning soggy.

Also read: 7 prime tips to keeping your sandwiches super-fresh

Egg Mayo

A road-trip tradition for many, but this delicate number needs to be eaten early on.
Makes 4 sandwiches

• 4 eggs
• 1½T creamy mayonnaise
• ½ red onion, minced
• 2t very finely chopped dill, fronds only (no stalks)
• Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 8 slices (1cm thick) fresh white sandwich loaf

Fill a medium-sized pot with water and bring to the boil. Add the eggs and cook for eight minutes. Drain and plunge the eggs into cold water. Remove, crack the shells, peel and leave to cool.

Grate the eggs on the fine side of a box grater. Add the mayo, onion and dill and mix well until thoroughly combined. Season to your liking.

Make the sandwiches, cut them in half, wrap tightly and keep cold.

Grating the egg and mincing the onion super-fine makes this filling more of a sandwich spread that holds together and adheres to the bread.

Pastrami on Rye

This classic will last a little longer and the meat makes it a more substantial hunger-buster.

Makes 4 sandwiches

• 70g sweet and sour pickled gherkins, finely chopped
• 50g butter, softened
• 4 slices 70% sourdough rye, sliced 7mm thick
• 8 thin slices pastrami
• Dijon mustard, to taste.

Combine the gherkins and butter and mix well.

Divide one tablespoon of gherkin butter between two slices of rye and spread evenly from edge to edge.

Lay a slice of pastrami on the buttered face of one slice, folding in any overhanging edges.

Imagine where you will cut the sandwich in half and add about a teaspoon of Dijon mustard on either side of that.

Lay over another pastrami slice, folding in the edges.Cover with the second slice of rye, cut in half and wrap tightly.

Compressed Loaf

Find a scenic stop for a leg stretch and whip this out with a board and bread knife. Or carve it up before leaving home and wrap tightly in foil to keep it in
one piece. This solid, self-contained sandwich is perfect for padkos, picnics or a day on the beach – and you make it the night before, ready for an early departure.

1 loaf = about 10 slices
• 1 ciabatta* (about 450g)
• 100g sliced Italian salami
• 100g sliced mozzarella**
• 70g sliced provolone (a sweet, sharp or smoked Italian cheese)
• 80g sliced mortadella (an Italian cold cut studded with pistachios)
• 100g sliced Continental (cooked) ham For the relish
• 250g (1 punnet) tricolore peppers***
• 425g jar green olives**** (we used queen olives), drained, pitted and finely chopped
• 2T capers, drained and finely chopped
• 3T flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1T red-wine vinegar
• 3T extra-virgin olive oil

To prepare the relish, preheat the grill and place a rack in the middle of the oven. Put the peppers on a foil-lined baking sheet and grill, turning periodically, until the skin is blackened in places. Fold up the foil on the tray to seal the peppers inside. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel, remove the seeds and finely chop.

Combine the relish ingredients and mix well.

Using a sharp bread knife, cut off the top of the ciabatta, about 2cm down from the top so you have a ‘lid’. Cut inside the edge of the remaining bottom without cutting through the base and pull out the bread inside.

Spread half the relish onto the hollowed-out base and up the sides. Arrange even layers of salami, mozzarella, provolone, mortadella and ham. (Alternatively, use the mortadella to separate the two cheeses.)

Spread the remaining relish evenly on top and cover with the ‘lid’ – if necessary, pull out a little of the bread inside the lid to accommodate the filling. Press down gently.

Wrap tightly in brown or baking paper and tie tightly with string – like a parcel. Place on a wooden board at the bottom of the fridge. Top with two or three heavy boards to weigh it down and leave overnight.

Use this recipe as a blueprint and adjust according to your budget and taste. Aim for 280g deli meat and 170g cheese so, for example, a simple trio of salami, mozzarella and ham could also work.

• We found Woolworths’ in-store bakery ciabatta was the perfect balance of not too hard, not too soft.

• Woolies has a range of handy pre-sliced cheeses, or get cheese sliced to order at any deli counter.

• To roast peppers on the braai, see Getaway March 2017, or buy roasted peppers from a deli or in a jar. Once chopped, the peppers should fill a half-cup measure.

• You can also use a mix of half green, half black olives. When pitted, they should fill a cup measure.

The Keep-em-quiet Snack Pack

Keep the kids happy by filling individual brown-paper bags as a surprise second reveal, and hand out when ‘are we there yet?’ kicks in. Lasts 5 hours.

• Pack fruit that won’t bruise easily, drip or require wet wipes. Apples are the best bet.
• Make your own trail mix with almonds, dried cranberries, toasted coconut flakes and chunks of dark chocolate.
• Choose raw nuts, not roasted-and-salted, to avoid greasy hands.
• Bake hardy biscuits that don’t have a major crumb factor (see Pip pa’s Ginger Biscuits in Getaway February 2017).
• Add a dried-fruit roll, droëwors or homemade popcorn.
• Encourage eating over the brown paper bag to catch any crumbs and collect apple cores or debris in the bag before discarding.

What wine?

If you’re packing padkos, chances are you’re headed somewhere special of the bush, beach or berg variety. And for winos, that means you need to make space in the boot for at least two bottles. Firstly, a fruity white for spritzers on arrival. Let the purists snigger as you mix equal parts soda and wine over ice – let’s wait to see who lands up more lip-smackingly refreshed after the long drive. A zesty Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc will do nicely, especially if it’s on the right side of the price/quality equation so it mixes and matches with aplomb. Secondly, you’ll need a meaty red for the traditional fi rst-night braai.

What label?

The spritzer With a 3.5 star rating and a price tag of just R37, Excelsior Purebred White 2016 is an example of the kind of Best Value wine we’ve got in SA (bestvaluewineguide.com). It’s also a bottle with legacy: the De Wet family have farmed Excelsior for five generations going back to 1859, which explains how even their third-tier range is a ‘quality quaffer’.

The braai wine Zandvliet in Robertson may be a famed Shiraz champion, but there’s nothing pretentious about their My Best Friend range that includes a super drinkable Cabernet/Shiraz Cape blend for R48. It’s fruity and spicy, made to be unscrewed and poured immediately – and because it’s unwooded, has a distinctly ‘nouvelle’ character that lends itself to being a little chilled before drinking. Better take two bottles…

The green giant When it comes to Earth-friendly vineyards, few can match the fully organic fields at Reyneke in Stellenbosch, where ducks reign supreme and words ending in ‘cide’ are strictly verboten. If you haven’t tried this label yet, now’s the time – starting with the charmingly named Vinehugger Merlot 2014 (about R80). Bursting with plums and red berries, it’s like Mother Nature tickling your taste buds.

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

 

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Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

These parakeets relocated to the city of Chennai after the Southeast Asia floods in 2006 – and the roof of Joseph Sekar’s camera repair shop has become a feeding sanctuary for them.

Vimeo

They are fed twice a day and forty percent of Sekar’s income goes toward their food.

Vimeo

It all started when he noticed two of these birds and after he put food out, the number of his feathery guests grew.

Vimeo

Sekar explains that his actions are an act of love and that money isn’t important.

Vimeo

Watch the video below and share your opinions on displaced wildlife in urban spaces. We’d love to know what you think.

The Birdman of Chennai from Great Big Story on Vimeo.

 
More bird stories: Dutch police are training eagles to take out illegal drones

Love exploring a place on no one else’s timeline but your own, but worry about safety? We asked seven women where they went on their own, why they loved it, and what their solo travel strategy is. Here are 14 epic destinations for women who travel solo – plus seven useful tips.

1. Piketberg, Western Cape

Perfect settings at Kapteinskloof in Piketberg. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Recommended by Helen Walne: a writer who likes to head off on solo trips into rural regions where the only threats to her safety are poorly made fires, stray dogs and her terrible sense of direction.

I’m perpetually working on a novel and every few months I take myself off to a farm cottage for 10 days to write and make extremely bad fires. My routine goes like this: start working at 8am, drink tea at 9am, fiddle around with resident dogs at 10am, work until 1pm, eat broccoli, work until 3pm and then walk or run for an hour. In the evenings, I might venture into a nearby village for beer and company.

Stay here The Old Kapteinskloof Guest House near Piketberg in the Western Cape is a beautiful historic cottage with exposed beams and thatch. R250 pp (the cottage is divided into two and can sleep either two or six). 0837109017, kapteinskloof.co.za

2. Bolivia

Amazing mountain scenery in Bolivia. Photo by Helen Walne.

In 2015, the novel still wasn’t writing itself, so I went further afield – to Bolivia – to stay with an author friend whom I hoped would encourage me to write. Instead, I did a lot of travelling. Who wouldn’t? I did a solo trip to the mountain area of Sorata, taking a three-hour ride in a minibus taxi that seemed to be stuck together with pan pipes. But once there, I hiked alone, my only safety concern the numerous stray dogs that sometimes bared their teeth.

Stay here I stayed at Altai Oasis, a good-value eco-lodge just outside the village of Sorata comprised of rustic yet comfy cottages. From R280 pp. +59171519856, altaioasis.com

Also read: exploring the Bolivian desert in photos

Helen’s tips

I make sure the cottages I stay in are quiet and private, yet near enough to a main house in case of emergencies. If the cottages are pet-friendly, I take my dogs – for protection and company. I speak Spanish, which made getting around Bolivia easier, and I generally chose accommodation out of the main towns to avoid noise and drunk men. And I always hiked with a stick to ward off any miscreant dogs.

3. Kampala, Uganda

A view of Kampala through the trees. Photo by Rachel Strohm, Flickr.

Recommended by Joonji Mdyogolo: head of content at Livity Africa and a columnist for City Press. She travels whenever she can and her favourite trips are when she can immerse herself in the history and future of a city.

In Kampala, I didn’t feel the need for vigilance. Seeing young women walking the streets well past midnight made me vow to come back again to really party. My Ugandan girlfriends were invaluable in negotiating with private taxi drivers, who will drive you from spot to spot and wait, for a fair price. So was the watchman and gardener at our AirBnB rental, who organised boda (motorbike) drivers so we could zip around the hilly suburbs.

Stay here  Yellow Haven, which overlooks Lake Victoria, has a pool and modern rooms. From R650 per person sharing. Tel +256777609947. Our AirBnB in a private residence was also a great budget stay at R746 per night for two.

4. Inner-city Johannesburg, Gauteng

A typical inner-city Johannesburg street scene. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

‘That building there that looks like ulusu (tripe) – follow it to get home,’ my mother used to tell me when I went off to explore Joburg’s inner city as a teenager. That skyscraper, the Southern Life building, was one of the places where taxis to Pimville Zone 1, Soweto, lined up. It was – and still is – my North Star. Exploring the city alone without the burden of someone else’s itinerary reveals a marvel of gems – from old buildings (like my favourite, the Post Office on Rissik Street) to bargain buys on the street. As a first-time traveller, though, you have to stay alert as Joburg’s streets can be as busy and confusing as New York’s. Without a landmark to lead you safely home, I recommend you ask for help from strangers: ‘Sawubona, mama (or baba, sisi or bhuti). Bengicela ukubuza…’ is the best place to start.

Stay here  The Reef Hotel on 58 Anderson is in the financial district. It’s got lovely views of the Johannesburg skyline if you get a room on one of the top floors. It’s right next to the Standard Bank headquarters, so if I’ve got time, I like to visit the Standard Bank Gallery. R1055 per room. Tel 0116891000.

Joonji’s tips

Speaking to and making friends with locals makes me feel safe. I’m terrible at reading maps and directions, so people on the streets are my verification mechanism to get me where I need to go. Simply put, I prep as much as I can for solo travel, then I trust in people. Mostly they don’t let me down.

5. Balule Satellite Camp, Kruger National Park

Balule Satellite Camp in the centre of Kruger National Park. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Recommended by Melanie van Zyl: our senior travel photojournalist who wants to be the most qualified adventurer possible. She’s an Open Water Padi Diver, field guid and not scared of camping, 4x4ing or getting lost.

I’ve been to Kruger a number of times and to date this small rustic camp is my favourite. Named ‘Balule’ after the Tsonga word for the Olifants River, the small number of campsites – just 18 in total – makes this satellite camp an incredibly intimate and wild bushveld experience. Almost all the sites and the six rondavels are based at the fence, which acts as the only barrier between you and the hyenas that patrol the camp border every night.

Stay here Balule Satellite Camp is just around the corner from the main Olifants Rest Camp in the centre of the park – where you might even spot the elusive Pel’s fishing owl. The rondavels are very basic with shared facilities and I personally prefer camping, but neither option detracts from the cosy atmosphere. From R285 for two people camping; from R415 for two people in a rondavel. Tel 0137356606.

6. Botswana

The Mokoro trips into the delta are a great way of getting to grips with the channels and spotting wildlife hiding in the papyrus. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

I did a 10-day road trip through Botswana and up into the Zambezi Region with journalist Vuyi Qubeka. Just two women, a 4×4 and the open road and not once did we feel threatened. We capably camped our way around the country before heading into Namibia – but sometimes there’s nothing like a soft bed.

Stay here I love the quirky finishes at Planet Baobab. It’s also a great base for checking out the nearby Makgadikgadi Pans. From R840 per person sharing twin huts, including breakfast. Tel +26772338344.

Also read: How to see the best of Botswana in 10 days

Mel’s tips

If I feel uncomfortable, I’ve learnt recently that I can simply get in the car and leave. There’s no shame in self-preservation. I’d rather be rude and leave than spend a night stressing and listening to foreign noises with my heart in my throat ‒ even if it means driving through the dead of night.

7. Port St Johns, Eastern Cape

A local woman collects oysters on the beach at Port St Johns. Photo by Vuyi Qubeka.

Recommended by Vuyi Qubeka: Her favourite memory is dancing the pasada in a local spot in Maputo, Mozambique. She and her friends were headed to Tofo and hadn’t booked accommodation for the night – so they decided to forgo sleep and dance the night away instead.

Travelling solo to Port St Johns was one of my favourite sojourns and I revelled in the natural beauty, the simple way of life, the affordability and the friendliness of the people. It’s easiest to self-drive to the village, but once there, there are minibus taxis … and you can walk, and walk, and walk.

Stay here There are many backpackers where you can make friends, arrange day jaunts and get reliable suggestions for things to do, see and eat. My favourite was Amapondo. From R100 per person for dorms, R390 for a double room (sleeps two). There’s also camping for R90 per person. Tel 0833153103.

8. Bus to Harare, Zimbabwe

The sun setting on top of the giant rocks at Domboshawa, just outside of Harare. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

It wasn’t so much about the destination but the journey. A friend was getting married in Harare and my twin and I took a bus there with Intercape. What an experience! It’s a Christian bus and there’s a prayer at the beginning, so you know God is on board (if you’re into that kind of thing). We sat at the top of the double-decker bus and the views of Beit Bridge were unimaginable. I loved that a community is formed during the trip, especially at the border stops, which can be quite daunting. It felt safe and I was able to observe the movement across borders that thousands of Africans undertake every day.

Stay here In Harare, we stayed at the gracious, 100-year-old Meikles Hotel. From R1820 per person, Tel +263715071698

A one-way Intercape bus ticket from Johannesburg to Harare is from R450 per person. Tel 0213804400.

Also read: The insider’s guide to  a weekend in Harare

Vuyi’s tips

Travelling by yourself, at least once, is so important for introspection. A good tip is to call the SA embassy in the country you’re visiting and notify them you are around. Leave your full details, emergency contact numbers and a copy of your passport or ID at your hotel reception in case of emergencies. Make an effort to learn a few words in the language of the country you’re visiting.

9. Agulhas National Park, Western Cape

The iconic striped lighthouse at the Agulhas National Park. Photo by Chris Davies.

Recommended by Nicole Biondi: a marketing and communications specialist, spoken-word artist, prolific public speaker, murder-mystery writer, half-marathon runner and is far too claustrophobic to be boxed.

A few years ago I had the enviable job of marketing the South African National Parks (SANParks) in the Cape region. While each of them has unique merits, my favourite visits were the ones that took me to the southernmost tip of Africa, to Agulhas National Park. The two-and-a-half-hour drive from Cape Town offers the opportunity for thoughts to turn inward, while sheep-dotted hills and sleepy towns with towering church steeples keep the eyes amused.

Stay here Agulhas Rest Camp is a haven of serenity. Nothing beats sitting on the deck of one of the fully equipped wooden chalets, smelling the sea mist-kissed fynbos, listening to an orchestra of birdsong and gazing out at the ocean. From R1100 per unit (sleeps two), park entry R37 per person. Tel 0284356078.

10. Mumbai, India

Children playing in the waters of Chowpatty beach, the skyline of Mumbai distant in the horizon. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

An experience in complete contrast to my serene Agulhas trips was my virgin visit to India last year. I was going to be staying in Mumbai for a day and night on my own before heading off to meet my boyfriend in Kochi. Arriving in Colaba in Mumbai, I did what I always do when travelling: headed into the streets with the plan of getting a little bit lost. I instantly fell in love with the bustling, sound-filled, colour-coated, manic city and after half an hour of wandering, stopped to ask a kind-looking man for directions back to my hotel. He was aghast to find I was traipsing around Mumbai unaccompanied and immediately asked where my husband was.

Stay here I stayed at the gorgeous boutique Hotel Abode, which has chic, locally inspired decor (hand- crafted tiles, vintage Indian furniture and original artworks). From R950 for two. Tel +918080234066.

Nbsp;

Nicole’s tips

My SANParks journeys, always incident free, showed me I had nothing to fear from solo-tripping around the Western Cape, while India taught me that sometimes for ease of travel, it’s necessary to embellish the truth when it comes to marital status.

11. Jacobsbaai, Western Cape

Amazing sea views in Jacobs Bay. Photo by Angel Campey.

Recommended by Angel Campey: a professional stand-up comedian by night and a wander-luster by day, and got her first passport stamp at age two on a family visit to Zimbabwe. She has been everywhere, from South Korea to New York.

There’s something about the chilly ocean, windswept landscapes and white-washed cottages of this West Coast hideaway that beckon a solo visit. It’s quiet enough to be free of leering tourists but quaint enough to feel safe, and lends itself to pretending you’re the forlorn heroine of a Jane Austen novel as you run up and down the beaches. Or wander the beaches – running is cardio and heroines don’t wheeze. The dirt road there is an easy drive and you can buy oysters for R8 from Charlie’s Fish Shop in Saldanha along the way. It’s also about 20 minutes from Paternoster, which has fine-dining options.

Stay here I stayed at Klokkiebosch Guesthouse, which, with its high ceilings and attention to detail, has an opulent ambience. There’s also a lovely balcony and glass front room, so you can find a cosy nook in which to read (or write the next bestseller), no matter the weather. From R890 for a loft room (sleeps two), excluding breakfast. Tel 0227153059.

12. Sri Lanka

A postcard-perfect paradise beach in Dikwella, where you’ll find blue waters and fresh coconut. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

I’d always wanted to travel to India but had heard enough cautionary tales about women travelling alone to put it on hold. Then I discovered Sri Lanka – or, as I like to call it, ‘India Lite’. It has all the checklist items for your dream island vacation (including cricket, curry and saris) and travelling here felt safe. Aside from the town of Kandy, which is very touristy, I never felt hustled. People were friendly and polite. Its backpacker trail is still relatively untrodden and you’ll feel more like an adventurer and less like a vest-wearing kid on a gap year. I went from ancient ruins and tea-farm tours to palm-fringed beaches frequented by turtles and blue whales, all in a single three-hour private van ride.

Stay here Chamodya Homestay in Ella, a small town in the south, has views of a waterfall tumbling out of lush vegetation – and the woman who runs it will bring you sporadic pots of tea. From R530 for a double room, including breakfast. Tel +94785354726.

Also read: In pursuit of paradise: beach hopping in Sri Lanka

Angel’s tips

I found that when taking long train rides, it was best to befriend fellow travellers so I didn’t appear to be a solo traveller and perhaps more vulnerable. Meeting people in the common areas of hotels and hostels not only leads to safer travels, but can lead to lifelong friendships. I put a ring on my wedding finger in Asia as I found local men more respectful if they believed me to be married.

13. Kigali, Rwanda

The taxi-moto industry is absolutely huge. Seldom do you have to wait more than a minute (and that’s in less populated districts) to flag one down. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Recommended by Teagan Cunniffe: our photo editor who spends most of her time on the road. The more isolated it is the better – throw in a hammock, glass of wine and a book and she’s hard-pressed to ever leave.

The first thing you’ll notice about Kigali is how clean the streets are. The next is the hordes of taxi motos (motorbikes) whizzing around, bobble-headed passengers clinging on. Get on one of those, you say? Absolutely not. But it’s the main mode of transport and is surprisingly safe and dirt cheap. Before you know it you’ll be standing on the side of the street, nervously flagging down your first of many. It’s the best way to travel between the sprawling suburbs, all of which you can wander through alone and at ease, camera swinging by your side. You’ll find nothing but friendliness in this colourful city of contradictions.

Stay here  I stayed at the pricey but reputable Lemigo. This huge four-star hotel is well situated to access both the airport and CBD, and more importantly has staff who are happy to chat to you about getting around the city. From R2020 per person, including breakfast. Tel +25078842095.

14. Montagu, Western Cape

Another of my favourites, and I hope to return. It’s a simple farm cottage surrounded by olive trees, with a daybed on the verandah. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

My favourite part of driving to Montagu is dipping through the natural rock archway that heralds the unofficial entrance to this quaint town. There are the normal small-town features – little church, vineyards, good food, glorious mountain escarpments and hikes – but for me the special aspect is the Leiwater birding site in the middle of town, teeming with sacred ibis, cormorants and egrets, among others.

Stay here One of my favourite South African finds, Klein Nektar, is a farm cottage surrounded by an olive grove. Its wrap-around veranda has a tempting daybed. From R1900 for two. R650 per person extra (sleeps four). Tel 0715062810.

Also read: 12 of our favourite farm stays around South Africa 

Teagan’s tips

Save all your important documents (such as copies of your credit card, passport and ID) to Dropbox for on-the-go access. Always charge your phone before heading out, and keep an emergency battery charger on you. Upon entry into foreign countries, buy a local SIM card and data package. You can use this to access WhatsApp as well as Google maps (to trace the route your taxi is taking, or navigate while walking).

This story first appeared in the August 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features Mana Pools, great North West parks, and best trips for women. On shelves from 25 July.

Sure, GPS will take you places – just not always the right places.

A serene landscape shot by Teagan Cunniffe.

I was in Rwanda with Teagan Cunniffe, Getaway’s photographer, and she had just shown me how the GPS on her phone works. For years I’ve shunned Google Maps and GPS. I’ve always said I want to be in touch with my surroundings and have a more authentic experience, but actually it’s because GPS is technology and when it comes to technology I am a small arachnophobic girl and technology is a large spider.

But it turns out that GPS is quite easy to use, especially if you aren’t the one paying for the roaming data, so when a driver picked us up in Musanze to take us to a hotel somewhere outside town, I was quite keen to help.

‘You should take the second left,’ I told Habimana.

Habimana frowned. ‘I don’t think so,’ he said.

‘No, look, here’s the map,’ I said, waving the phone in front of his face. Habimana was very polite so he pretended to look at the phone, nodding appreciatively. Then he said that maybe he knew a better way.

‘How long will your way take?’ I asked.

Habimana said maybe half an hour.

‘Ooooh, I don’t know, Habimana. The map says it’s only 20 minutes. It’s getting quite late… I think maybe let’s take the quicker way, what do you say?’

Habimana considered this thoughtfully, then he smiled and nodded and sort of shrugged to himself, and took the second turning left.

I settled back in my seat with a warm, contented feeling. Why hadn’t I embraced technology before? Technology is great. Technology has turned me into an expert. Teagan had gone silent. She had a thoughtful look on her face as I imagine a scientist might have who is wondering whether it was such a good idea, after all, to teach that chimp to use a firearm.

The second turn left was a fine dirt road that lead away from the tarmac road, and passed through a kind of field and then turned uphill. The further uphill it turned, the less road there seemed to be. There was more rut than road. The wheels started struggling for purchase. Habimana hunched over the steering wheel in concentration. I hunched over the screen.

‘We should be almost there,’ I said.

Habimana wasn’t quite as convinced because he wasn’t looking at a screen, he was looking at the dark mountain rising ahead of us.

We’ll be at the river any minute now,’ I assured him.

‘No river on a mountainside,’ muttered Habimana.

I looked to Teagan for support. We technologists must stick together, but she was reading an article about a woman in Bellevue, Washington, who drove into a lake because the GPS said it was a road. Even when the water reached the windscreen, she didn’t press the brakes. She assumed it must be a very deep puddle and carried on driving forward.

‘Stupid Americans,’ I said.

It felt like Teagan was going to say something, but then we were distracted by the fact that the car wasn’t moving any more. The engine was running and the wheels were spinning, but we weren’t going anywhere. We peered out of the windows at the impenetrable Rwandan night.

Habimana said: ‘Someone needs to push.’

I looked at Teagan.

‘I’m not going out there,’ she said.

‘Someone has to stay with the GPS,’ I replied.

We sat in silence while Habimana slipped the car into neutral and let it roll backwards in the darkness down the hill. At the bottom we bumped gently into
a tree, and Habimana turned and looked at me until I put away the phone.

‘Now,’ he said, ‘we go to the hotel?’

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

The success of Gonarezhou National Park has placed it in the same league as Mana Pools, Kaokoveld and the Okavango. A genuine wilderness area with teeming wildlife, unique landscapes and a self-drive haven for 4x4s, Scott Ramsay lists the four best reasons to visit this evocative national park in south-eastern Zimbabwe.

1. That goosebump wilderness feeling

Chamaluvati campsite is little more than a GPS co-ordinate and long-drop toilet. Perfect… it’s also unfenced, like all the others in the park. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

We’d set up camp near the base of the Chilojo Cliffs, where the broad Runde River turns north to meet the Save River. Tired from the hot day, we drank cold beers and sizzled our meat on a mopane wood fire. Soon we fell asleep on our stretchers under a sparkling celestial ceiling. But not for long. The night’s silence was cracked wide open by a succession of baritone roars. My deep dreams ended abruptly as adrenaline surged through my body.

I shone a torch in the direction of the sound. A large male lion stood 30 metres away. Slowly he walked towards us with predatory entitlement. We quickly stoked the fire and flames shot into the sky. The big cat stopped a few metres away, then fortunately lost interest and walked down into the dry riverbed, leaving us for the night.

Sleep came surprisingly easily again, and at dawn we woke to three elephant bulls feeding on branches of a nearby apple-leaf tree, the leaves falling like confetti around us. Unlike the lion, the elephants ignored us and focused on their breakfast. I lay in my sleeping bag and watched them, then turned to admire the first rays of sun bursting into the sky above the Chilojo Cliffs. The red sandstone ramparts are spectacular, and shone luminously in the early morning light.

It’s these visceral interactions with wilderness that make a visit to Gonarezhou special – and rare, in this increasingly commercial era of wildlife tourism. The park lies just across the border from well-trodden Kruger in South Africa, but it’s another world. There are no tar roads, fenced campsites or shops here. The park’s rugged terrain, poor roads and remote location give it an aloof allure. It’s a difficult place to get to, and to explore. Damn right. But it’s worth it.

2. Wildlife numbers are booming

Gonarezhou’s 11000 elephants epitomise the park’s resurgence, more than doubling in number in the past decade. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

For decades Gonarezhou was considered too remote, virtually inaccessible to tourists. Besides, visitors want to see animals, and most had been shot out by hunters and poachers. But today, wildlife numbers here are booming.

The name Gonarezhou is generally accepted to mean ‘place of the elephant’, an apt description of this brooding lowveld region of Zimbabwe. The 2014 aerial survey counted just over 11000 in the park, up from 4000 in 1994. Gonarezhou has more elephants than the whole of Mozambique, and one of the highest densities in Africa (at about two per square kilometre). And it gets better: the tuskers of Gonarezhou are the biggest in Zimbabwe, clearly sharing DNA with the famed large bulls in Kruger.

In 1979, Kabakwe was the legendary bull that was the first to be given special legal protection from hunting. One of the biggest of recent times (tusks of 45 kilograms each) was shot in the Malapati hunting area adjacent to Gonarezhou in October 2015. So the bulls with big ivory are still here, only there used to be far more of them.

Gonarezhou is not just about elephants. In 10 days we saw lion four times and heard their roars most nights, as well as the howls of spotted hyenas. We also saw a pack of seven wild dogs and several pups; Gonarezhou has one of the strongest populations of these endangered carnivores, a dozen packs.

‘I never saw a lion or leopard for the first three years here,’ says Hugo van der Westhuizen, the park’s conservation manager for the past decade. ‘You’d wake up early in the morning and
there were hardly any animal sounds. It was depressing.’

Now, thanks to stringent anti-poaching measures, the animal statistics makes for reassuring reading. The last predator survey in 2015 showed that there are approximately 125 lions, up from just 31 in 2009. Other predators have also increased significantly: 642 spotted hyenas (from 407), 279 wild dogs (from 30) and 90 cheetahs (from 22).

All herbivore species have increased significantly too. At the last count in 2014, there were 8000 impalas, 1700 kudus, 6000 Cape buffaloes, 1300 Burchell’s zebras, 900 wildebeest, 500 giraffes and 500 hippos. Roan and sable have never recovered to former levels, and black rhinos and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest are now locally extinct, but on the whole things are much better. If all goes to plan, the increase in tourism revenue will allow the reintroduction of rhino, which Hugo says could happen as soon as 2018.

3. A sense of place

One evening we camped at Chilojo Cliffs during a full moon, and in the morning we watched our planetary sibling drop below the horizon. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

Mana Pools has its albida forests alongside the Zambezi River. Gonarezhou’s Chilojo Cliffs elicit a similar sense of wonder. Rising 200 metres above the floodplain of the broad Runde River, the 13-kilometre sandstone rampart is magnificent. It’s the defining feature of this remote wilderness.

Here the Runde flows south and seems to bump into the cliffs, then has to flow north to meet the narrow, powerful Save. Together, these rivers give the northern part of the park a unique sense of place. From the top of the cliffs, Gonarezhou’s diverse landscapes are clear to see. Most obvious are the extensive floodplains alongside the Runde, which reminded me a little of those at Mana Pools at the opposite end of the country. The large Tembwahata Pan lies near the confluence of the two rivers and draws plenty of elephant, buffalo and other wildlife during the hot days. The nearby and smaller Machaniwa Pan is just a few hundred metres south of the Runde River, and a superb place for spotting saddle-billed storks and fish eagles, who prance around the muddy waters scooping up unlucky catfish.

During the dry season, two pans offer fantastic sights. Machaniwa Pan is an excellent environment for birding in particular, with good numbers of saddle-billed storks. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

Vast mopane woodland dominates the basins and plateaus on either side of the Runde. The scene is grand. ‘Gonarezhou has diversity of habitat that most other parks don’t have,’ says private guide Anthony Kaschula, who has been running a mobile campsite here since 2009. Few know Gonarezhou better than he.

‘On a typical five-night safari you’ll see rocky gorges and waterfalls, impenetrable ironwood forest with floodplains and pans, big swathes of mopane and huge areas of sandveld woodland. You’ve got the Chilojo Cliffs themselves and wide, sweeping sand rivers. It’s incredibly diverse, and very photogenic.’ The park could also be Africa’s epicentre of baobabs. There are thousands of these arboreal grandfathers. Near Tembwahata Pan, we counted 60 within sight of us.

4. Not a tourist in sight (almost)

Hippos congregate during the heat of the day in deeper water of the rivers, but in the cool early mornings you’ll find on the sandbanks warming up. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

Anthony believes Gonarezhou’s best feature is its lack of tourists. ‘It’s still off the tourism map. While there are other places in Africa that are also very wild, many of those are overrun with visitors.’ There are only three camps in this 5 000-square-kilometre park, with tented chalets or ‘developed’ campsites offering basic thatch-and-stone shelters and ablutions. The rest are just GPS co-ordinates on a map, with a long-drop toilet, and can only be used by one group at a time. All of these, 26 in total, are far from each other.

‘We think Gonarezhou is a secret success story,’ Hugo told me in his office at Chipinda Pools, near the northern entrance to the park. ‘But please, don’t tell that to anyone!’

About 7000 visitors come to the park annually. This may seem paltry compared to Kruger’s one million, but just a decade ago almost no one visited. ‘Don’t get me wrong, I’m happy tourists are returning,’ he said, ‘but we didn’t anticipate how quickly this place would turn around.’

Near the end of our 10-day visit, Hugo and his wife Elsabe invited us to camp with them at the top of the Chilojo Cliffs. As the elephants have done every night in winter for thousands of years, they descended the escarpment via one of the few passes to quench their thirst at the Runde River below. The full moon rose. In prayerful silence we stood on top of the cliffs and watched several breeding herds negotiate the steep pass below us. A warm wind picked up and carried our whispers and wood-fire smoke away from the matriarchs.

These elephants were doing what they’ve always done, oblivious to our presence. At Gonarezhou, you get the feeling that the animals are in charge. And as parks go, it is once again one of Southern Africa’s finest.

Why it’s a success story

The central and south-western sector is where most of the park’s wild dogs roam. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

Long before Gonarezhou was a conservation area, elephant hunters shot what they wanted. In the 1960s, to rid the area of tsetse fly – which infected cattle and people with nagana (sleeping sickness) – huge tracts of riverine and ironwood forest were bulldozed. So too were many of the natural pans that had taken centuries to form. Thousands of wild animals were shot, including buck, buffalo and elephant. The land was enclosed with wire fencing and sprayed with pesticides such as dieldrin and DDT.

Just as it was finally proclaimed a national park in 1975 and wildlife populations had started rebuilding naturally, the Mozambican civil war began. To feed themselves, soldiers set thousands of snares using wire from the fences. In addition, almost 10000 elephants were culled over the course of two decades by authorities concerned about habitat damage.

The park has an unfenced 110-kilometre border with Mozambique, where nine hunting concessions are interspersed with poor communities desperate for protein. Snare poaching and poisoning used to be rife. Some game farms were placing bait and water close to the boundary, drawing predators, elephants and other wildlife across into Mozambique for safari hunting. Zimbabwe Parks & Wildlife receives no subsidies from the government, so revenue from safari tourism is crucial. With dwindling wildlife and visitor numbers, funding had dried up.

In 2010, the Frankfurt Zoological Society (FZS) signed an agreement with Zim Parks to support the park for 20 years. The team that had already successfully implemented measures to resuscitate the wilderness were tasked with continuing their good work: conservation manager Hugo van der Westhuizen, his ecologist wife Elsabe, area manager Evious Mpofu and other colleagues from Zim Parks. FZS now pays almost all operational costs: staff salaries, training and rations, vehicles, diesel, aircraft, aerial surveys, vegetation mapping, anti- poaching and the construction and maintenance of all roads, fences and tourism facilities.

The latest cause for celebration is the recent creation of a trust, made up of both FZS and park officials, that will control Gonarezhou. As trust director, Hugo will have the final say on all park management and tourism infrastructure decisions. And crucially, all tourism money generated (about $400 000 currently) will from now on be invested back into the park. Previously, it had disappeared into central state coffers and Gonarezhou hardly benefitted.

‘This is groundbreaking stuff,’ says Hugo. ‘The park is now run by a true partnership, and it’s up to us entirely to make even more of a success, which I’m confident we will do.’

Plan your trip

Getting to Gonarezhou National Park

Gonarezhou can be reached from South Africa in two ways. During dry season, the more adventurous route is through the north of Kruger National Park, accessing first Mozambique at the Pafuri border post and then crossing the Limpopo River, following the Zim-Moz border to the Chicualacuala border post. From here, cross into Zim and you’re in Gonarezhou.

Make your way north to Boli Village, then turn east to the Chipinda South Gate, which is near the main HQ of the park. During wet season, the only way to get to the park is via the Beitbridge border post. From there, drive north to Ngundu, then east to Chiredzi, then south to Chipinda Pools. If you’re heading to the park from Harare, take the A10 road to Chiredzi Town, then east to the turn-off that heads south to Chipinda North Gate.

When to go

Winter and spring is the dry season (from May to October), when the park is most accessible for self-drivers. During the summer wet season, the Limpopo, Runde and Save Rivers are in flood, so access to certain areas of the park will be restricted (even in July or August, the Save River can be flooded, so aim to travel to Gonarezhou around September or October).

Need to know

Independent travel in Gonarezhou is only for fully self-sufficient 4x4ers and experienced bushwhackers (think unfenced campsites with wild animals close by). It takes a long time to get anywhere due to the bad roads. Crossing rivers can be tricky – even if they’re dry, beware of thick sand. There is nowhere to buy food, water or drinks in the park (the nearest town for supplies is Chiredzi), although you can buy firewood at the entrance gates and at Chinguli camp. Needless to say, there is no cell- phone reception.It is a malaria and bilharzia area, so take precautions. You will need to pay conservation fees (R78 per person per day), camping fees (R390 per person per night) and vehicle fees (R130 for five days).

Stay here

Early morning at Hlaro campsite, looking across the Runde River. Elephants love the soft trunks of baobab trees, and there are plenty here to snack on. Photo by Scott Ramsay.

Chipinda Pools, near the park’s northern entrance, has four tented en-suite chalets with kitchens (sleep four to six). There are also nine campsites with thatched gazebos and communal ablutions.

Chinguli, near Chilojo Cliffs, has similar camping facilities. There are five sites here; only six people and two vehicles per site.

(The third camp, Swimuwini, which I did not visit, is in the far south-west and has nine chalets.) The best campsites are the ‘exclusive-use’ ones in the north-east of the park, on either side of the Runde River – my favourites are Hlaro, Chilojo and Chitove. Maximum 12 people and three vehicles; the only facilities are long-drop toilets. Campsites R650, exclusive campsites R1171, self-catering chalets from R1119 for two. Visit zimparks.org for more info.

Chilo Gorge Lodge, not in the park itself but on the edge of it, is built on a ridge so it has superb views over the Save River and into Gonarezhou. It has self-catering villas (sleeps two) and a family villa (sleeps six) at Nhambo Camp, with a shared kitchen, braai area and plunge pool. The main lodge is more luxurious, with a pool, library and bar. From R1301 self-catering for two, R3249 for the family villa, R1949 per person for full-board luxury room (SADC rates) plus community and park fees from R155 per person. Fly-in safaris are an option.

Gonarezhou Bush Camp is private guide Anthony Kaschula’s mobile camp, on the banks of the Runde River, which looks out onto the Chilojo Cliffs – you can’t ask for a more stunning setting. It’s ideal for those who want a single-group, fully catered experience. It has just five twin tents, with hot bucket showers and bush toilets. R20783 per person (children R15621) for four nights minimum, including meals, drinks, transfers and guided activities.

Furry friends make the best outdoor companions. Thankfully, there’s no shortage of pet-friendly hikes in South Africa. So get out those walking shoes and grab a handful of dog biscuits.

Also read: do this pet-friendly slackpacking route in Limpopo

1. Kranskloof, Magaliesberg

Level Easy to moderate
Price R20 per dog and R60 per person.
Contact 0145350014 or 0789766723, footprint.co.za

Saamrus is another pet-friendly address in Magaliesberg – and it’s romantic. Read our review of Saamrus by clicking here.

If you want to flex your athleticism with your puppies, the pet-friendly Kranskloof Hiking Trail is perfect. It offers challenging hikes for dog-owners and moderate hiking and walking trails to suit your four-legged companions. Pet-friendly accommodation is also offered, along with pool facilities. The area has streams sandwiched by pristine mountains for your viewing pleasure. Note that dogs must be on a leash at all times, and bookings for accommodation are to be done three weeks in advance.

2. Buffalo Gorge, Middleburg

Level Moderate to strenuous
Price Entrance is free for dogs, but only a maximum of two dogs per person is allowed. R50 per person.
Contact 0835289586, buffalogorge.co.za

Image by @aliwopwop

Buffalo Gorge is perfect for bike-riding while watching over your pets. They also offer mountain biking, horse riding, abseiling, rock-climbing, and paint-balling as part of their activities. If you plan to stay for a day or two there are various camping options.

3. Newlands Forest, Cape Town

Level Easy
Price Daily Permit is R60 and the annual permit is R250 per year.
Contact 0217120527 or 0217127471, sanparks.org

Image by Nazzy Afrogheh

Newlands Forest is a pet-friendly hiking trail with beautiful views of Cape Town’s renowned Table Mountain. If pet-owners are looking for an easy-going trail to get in some exercise before the start of the day, or perhaps a lovely walk to cool off from the hustle and bustle of the office, then the Newlands Forest in Cape Town is a good choice to relieve some stress – don’t forget your furry friend!

4. Huddle Park Golf and Recreation, Johannesburg

Level Easy
Price R100 per person, plus additional charge of R50 for August 2017. In September 2017, R150 per person, plus additional charge of R50 for more than two pets.
Contact 0116406693, huddlepark.com

Image by Stefanie Pratten

The Huddle Park Golf and Recreation offers pet-owners and their pets easy going walking trails to occupy their time. Trails range from two and a half kilometres to five kilometres in distance. The newly established dog-walking area is open to the public in summer and winter from 6:30 to 18:00 and 7:00 to 17:00, respectively. What’s more, for regulars who travel as a family of two people and two dogs at minimum, unlimited dog-walking memberships are available at a fee.

5. Constantia Nek, Cape Town

Level Easy
Price The entrance fee is payable at Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens: R60 for adults and R30 for students (with students cards). R15 for ages six to 17. Free for senior citizens and those below age six on Tuesdays that don’t fall on public holidays senior citizens (must present ID).
Contact 012 428 9111, or see map for Constantia Nek hiking trails.

The picturesque resevoirs and dams after the decent climb up the jeep track at Constantia Nek. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

For a more liberal experience, pet-owners and their companions can take a hike from Constantia Nek to Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens in the Western Cape. The easy-to-cover route is about six kilometres and takes about an hour or two to complete. This is a scenic route with a backdrop of Table Mountain, foregrounded by Constantia’s plethora of greenery. Routes and contours are well maintained and the final destination is no disappointment either. Deemed the most beautiful garden in Africa by UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, the Botanical Gardens in Kirstenbosch is quite the sight to see.

6. Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, Cape Town

Level Easy
Price R60 for adults and R30 for students (with students cards). R15 for ages six to 17. Free for senior citizens and those below age six on Tuesdays that don’t fall on public holidays senior citizens (must present ID).
Contact 0217998800, sanbi.org, or click the link for the dog map.

Image by Sally Rundle

If you simply want to enjoy Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens with your pets, make sure to head to gate three for a lovely stroll. Dogs must be leashed at all times and owners are expected to pick up after their pets. The walking trail available for pets is restricted to about 300 kilometres.

7. Umhlanga Lighthouse Beach

Level Easy
Price Free
Contact 031 561 4257, umhlangatourism.co.za

The gorgeous beach below the Umhlanga Lighthouse. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

For a view of the sun melting away into the waves of the Indian Ocean, visit Umhlanga Lighthouse Beach. The beach is located right around the corner from the Oyster Box Hotel and is in front of the beach’s main attraction – the lighthouse. Get ready to have the perfect Kodak moment with your dogs. The Umhlanga Information Tourism Centre warns that dogs must be kept on a leash at all times.

Also read: Top 8 stays in Umhlanga for a seaside holiday

8. Walk Haven Dog Park, Johannesburg

Level Easy
Price R30 per person
Contact 0712129955, 0823264844 or walkhaven.co.za

Image by Walkhaven

Built for the sole purpose of walking your four-legged friends, Walk Haven offers its visitors a little ‘peace’ of countryside. The site primarily serves dogs with enjoyable facilities and beautiful views overlooking two large dams (where dogs can indulge in some day-time swimming) and wet grassland. Entrance is free for the dogs but there is a fee for owners. Restaurant services are also available with a full breakfast and lunch menu to cater to our human friends too.

9. Leadville Dog Park, Cape Town

Level Easy
Price Free
Contact 0215563344 or follow on Facebook.

Coffee and good company at the Leadville Dog Park. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

For a space fully dedicated to your dogs, visit this off-leash park. Different sections accommodate shy and social canines and there is also a play-in fountain! All of your dogs’ needs can be taken care of with the on-site vet shop, rehab centre and dog behaviourist. If you’re in need of caffeine while watching your pups play, visit Reload Espresso Bar for breakfast, light lunch, a bagel or cake. The park is open from 7:00 to 19:00 and the Reload Espresso Bar is open from 7.30am to 6.30pm.

Got any great leads (geddit?) on other amazing places to walk with pets? Please share your favourite spots in the comments below.

It was cold and dark. Hippos grumbled and hyenas called as I peered through the gloom. I could just make out a basket lying on its side, a deflated hot air balloon spread out on the ground. We were going on a hot air balloon safari over Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve.

As the dawn flush crept into the sky, gas flames flared and fans roared to inflate the balloon.

Governors Balloon Safaris gets ready for take-off at dawn by firing up the jets. Photo by Keith Reid

We were lucky to be staying at Little Governors Camp, where the balloon launch site is, so our pre-dawn wake-up had been later than for people coming from camps a 45-minute drive away. The balloon has to get off the ground at first light because the temperature difference between the heated air inside the balloon and the cool air outside gives it lift.

A little adjustment to the levers and then, lift off! Photo by Keith Reid

Governors Balloon Safaris have been flying balloons in the Mara for nearly 40 years. Royals, sports celebs and film stars have stood here before us, and the balloons have seen some memorable weddings and marriage proposals.

In the air over the Mara

Once fire and fan fully inflated the balloon pocket, 14 people clambered into the basket. With a whoosh of flame, the pilot made some last-minute adjustments and the ground crew let go of the anchor ropes.

A herd of waterbuck sits in the plains as we float past. Photo by Keith Reid.

Suspended under the multi-coloured canopy, the balloon floated like a ghost over an area criss-crossed with game tracks. Three spotted hyenas loped across the veld in the early morning light.

We glided over small herds of buffalo, impala, topi and waterbuck. ‘The substance that makes waterbuck fur waterproof makes them unpleasant to eat, so even lions will only take them if they’re desperate for food,’ said pilot David Chipping. ‘That’s why they can be so relaxed, as if they’re on Prozac.’

The beautiful green vein that is the winding Mara River. Photo by Roxanne Reid

The balloon drifted on, over the winding Mara River and open plains dotted with flat-topped trees, where Thomson’s gazelle grazed. Ahead, a patch of forest appeared and David shot great tongues of flame into the balloon to gain height and slither over the tree-tops. We peered between the branches, hoping to make out the shape of a rhino or a leopard. No luck.

Hot air balloon selfie. Photo by Governors Balloon Safaris

At another bend in the river, a huge pod of hippos dozed on the rocks, while a croc lurked nearby. We gazed down on a pair of mating secretary birds in a tree, a brazen lilac-breasted roller and a few giraffes chomping on leaves. Given how tall giraffes are, looking down on them was a novel perspective.

Taller than a giraffe – an unusual perspective. Photo by Keith Reid

Bird’s-eye view

Although we flew low, to be able to spot game, at one point David took the balloon up to 300 metres and did two 360-degree turns to let us drink in the tree-dotted landscape and the Oloololo Escarpment in the distance. ‘They shot some scenes of the movie Out of Africa there,’ he said.

After about an hour, which flashed by, we had a soft landing on Eluai Plain. A few more photographs and then we rollicked over the veld in 4X4s to the foot of the Oloololo hills for a slap-up champagne breakfast.

On the ground at Eluai Plain. Photo by Keith Reid

Heading to the Oloololo hills. Photo by Keith Reid

Geek stuff

The balloon is made of polyurethane-treated rip-stop nylon, the bottom two metres of which is made from fire-resistant Nomex, all held together with thick nylon webbing. It lasts for about 800 hours of flying before it needs replacing and the baskets last three times as long.

Your Mara flight is usually between 8 and 15 nautical miles, depending on the winds. Ours was relatively calm so we only did 7.6 nautical miles at a top speed of 17.6 nautical miles and an average speed of 8.4.

You may think it’s just a lot of hot air up there in the balloon, but David said the whole thing weighs 16 tons – and 14 tons of that is propane-heated air. It’s pretty impressive that we were able to glide along like we did.

Champagne breakfast on the plains. Photo by Keith Reid

Luck of the draw

Like on any safari, what you see is a matter of luck and timing – and that’s part of its appeal. Two days after our flight we chatted to people who’d seen both rhino and leopard on theirs. A few weeks later, SafariLIVE was filming from the balloon when a zebra splashed across the river. It narrowly avoided the jaws of a crocodile, only to run headlong into two hungry lionesses on the riverbank.

We saw antelope, hyena, warthog, wildebeest, zebra, giraffe and hippo, with buffalo our only Big Five sighting. We didn’t really mind. Being on a classic balloon safari in the Mara – a big fat bucket list tick – was thrill enough.

Do it

The Governors Camp Collection and Governors Balloon Safaris offer hot air balloon safaris in Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve. The adventure begins before dawn and ends with a champagne breakfast, cooked not far from where you land. Afterwards, a game drive transfers you back to camp. From $409 per person.

The launch site is at Little Governors Camp (from $305 per person per night sharing on Early Bird special for April and May 2018, if booked before the end of 2017). Your ballooning fee includes pickup from other camps in the area too.

To follow more of my adventures, see my African travel blog.

If you’re interested in photography, you can’t have missed the awesome competition we’ve been running with Canon over on Instagram. We wanted to show that you don’t need expensive gear or long visits to exotic locations to get great nature photos. We asked readers to capture images of the natural world in urban spaces – and received over 3000 entries!

From bugs to plants to pigeons, there were so many creative and beautiful entries that it was very difficult to choose a winner. But ultimately, there could only be one:

Photo by Cameron Gouws.

Cameron says: “I wanted to shoot a Cape Town cityscape from above Bo-Kaap but I arrived late and the light was already harsh. So I went looking for other things to shoot and found a few squirrels playing on a barbed-wire fence. This particular one was in the perfect spot. Winning this competition is awesome, and really means a lot to me!”

Cameron wins a Canon EOS 7D Mark II camera + 18-35mm IS STM lens kit worth R32999.

Here’s a look at the other images we really loved:

Hadedas of Doom, by Heloise Alexandra.

Concrete Bloom, by Jacob Kritzinger.

The Flutter, by Kris Barnard.

Dassie Daycare, by Yaseen Molla.

Thanks to everyone who took part!

See our monthly top picks

• Best of #MyCanonWorld for April
• Best of #MyCanonWorld for May
• Best of #MyCanonWorld for June
• Best of #MyCanonWorld for July

Pop-up restaurants are making unusual food more accessible in South Africa and provide snazzier, more exotic options that aren’t explored in everyday South African households. ‘Pop-ups’ come with more freedom than a regular restaurant setting and have an essential personal element showing us that good food (and eating it) is not just functional. It’s a way of connecting with like minded-people and the world. Plus, you could even get to meet the chef.

Check out these interesting pop–up restaurants to dine at in South Africa:

1. Come Wine With Us – Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban and Cape Town

Good company, accompanied by food makes a wonderful combination. Image supplied by Alison Tu from Talamia Photography

We all want to connect over catch-ups, but how often do we? That’s why Sybil Doms created Come Wine With Us. Sybil comes from a sommelier, cooking and media background and Come Wine With Us is her way  of encouraging people to get together. ‘Six good friends around a table, six bottles of wine and some canapés is how Come Wine With Us came about in 2012. I believe in people connecting and discovering new things’.

The dinners are always paired with four luxury wine brands and include a three-course meal with wine top-ups (so your glass is never empty). The monthly and one-of-a kind food experience has also recently introduced live music, to set the perfect ambience for their evenings.

Book a Come Dine With Us dinner.

2. Joël’s Table – Cape Town

You can visit Joël’s Table the first Saturday and the last Friday of every month at The Flat Mountain in Woodstock, Cape Town. Image from Joël Kapepula

For Joël Kapepula, Saturday mornings consisted of him preparing hearty meals for his friends. Great conversations and laughter would be inevitable in a gathering of friends, which is why he launched Joël’s Table in March this year. Joël comes from a French background with a passion for cooking from a young age and shared his idea of owning a restaurant with a friend, who in turn introduced him to the owner of The Flat Mountain Coffee Roasters in Woodstock, Cape Town.

Joël develops meals that are healthy, to align with his lifestyle and gluten-intolerant requirements, but also strives to continually create exciting and interesting combinations. His meals range from waffles to flapjacks, croissants, breakfast bagels and cheeseburgers. Joël’s Table is a space for people to bring their friends, meet strangers and build a community over a good meal. You can visit Joël’s Table the first Saturday of every month from 9:00 and every last Friday of the month from 18:30 at the Flat Mountain Coffee Roasters. Facebook to find out on how you can connect over a meal.

3. Plump Kitchen, Johannesburg

A Mpho Masango creation. Image by Plump Kitchen

After waking up on Saturday mornings with the need to do something fun (something that wasn’t a weekend market) Mpho Masango, the founder of Plump Kitchen started her pop-up restaurant in Maboneng, Joburg. Mpho Masango calls Plump Kitchen her turf, where she can play, indulge and be herself. She’s hosted many pop-ups, each with various themes, but ‘Plump Kitchen is about getting people to experience and fall in love with something that they wouldn’t ordinarily eat’. Her experience experimenting with different dishes and pop-ups gives her an edge – this is one to look out for!

Her first pop-up was called Grains and Staples and was an opportunity to showcase what can be created from grains, legumes and pulses, as well as other healthier options when it comes to South African cuisines. Mpho has also hosted events, such as gin and food pairings by playing with flavours – sometimes even including the gin itself in the meal. The next dinners will be hosted on 27 August and 24 September 2017. Email Plump Kitchen to book your dinner.

4. Wandile’s Invitation – Johannesburg, Pretoria, Durban and Cape Town

Chef Wandile in action. Image by Nocebo Bucibo

Chef Wandile is a South African chef with exceptional knowledge of French cuisine. After spending nine years away from South Africa, he’s now back on home soil and making French cuisine accessible to South Africans. Wandile’s Invitation is an experience to taste and understand French food and French cooking techniques.

Wandile aims to maximise the cooking experience for all his guests and cooks from the heart. His dinners have already been well received in Durban and Joburg. but the next dinners are to be hosted in Pretoria and Hartbeesport, followed by Cape Town. Each location comes with a different atmosphere and setting. This Spring, you can look forward to an outdoor fine dining with unique flavours.

5. Glam Foodie Wine and Dine – Johannesburg and Cape Town

Good food and some wine. Image by Glam Foodie

Glam Foodie Wine and Dine is the brainchild of Charmaine Ramalope, who started it in 2005. The Glam Foodie collaborates with chefs to create unique culinary experiences so like-minded people can meet and network.

The Glam Foodie Wine and Dine experiences are hosted once a month for haute cuisine and luxury wine brand lovers. Some wine brands you can expect at the Glam Foodie WIne and Dine are Glen Carlou, Jean Daneel, Bartinney Private Cellar Wine, Avondale Wines and Rietvallei Wine. Email the Glam Foodie or follow her on social media for more information on the dining experiences.

6. Third Culture Experiment– Cape Town

Eat glorious food and connect with people from all walks of life with the Third Culture Experiment. Image by Third Culture Experiment

The Third Culture Experiment was birthed through a series of events by founder, Nobhongo Gxolo. Nobhongo says one of the very first conversations that sparked the idea of a pop-up restaurant was a conversation between her mother and aunt about getting into the food industry. Nobhongo stumbled across an article on food clubs, followed by feedback from a friend who attended a food and art event in someone’s home. It didn’t end there. After a yoga lesson with friends and being invited to dinner, she dined on the tastiest chicken and hasn’t been able to forget it since. 2004 was full of sure signs to host pop-up dinners.

Today it’s a reality, Third Culture Experiment is a space where Nobhongo hosts dinners prepared herself while connecting with guests. ‘The purpose is to let people walk away feeling appreciated, not just in their tummies, but their hearts as well’ says Nobhongo. There’s a lot of reading and experimenting when it comes to putting together the menu at Third Culture Experiment. The dinners are hosted monthly and each dinner event is themed according to the season. Email The Third Culture Experiment to take part.

Visited any awesome pop-up restaurants in South Africa? Comment below and share your experience with us.

Read more about the Third Culture Experiment in the September Getaway issue.

Get this issue →

Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!

Every country has its assets, say Sonya Schoeman. After a recent trip overseas she decides South Africa has many.

On July 16, my partner and I were speeding down a three-lane highway outside Beirut, Lebanon. Backwards. Our Uber driver had overshot the turn-off to the small coastal town of Batroun. So he pulled over and flipped gears into reverse.

Batroun seashore in Lebanon. Image by Laurent Tironi

Let me explain: in Lebanon ‘three lane’ is actually five. Cars squeeze between the official lanes with a toot of the horn, ‘Hey-hey, listen up, I’m here on your right/left/grinding up against your bumper’, and miraculously, the flow adjusts without the tossing of an expletive or the loss of a side mirror. But this was adding another dimension to an already over-expanded equation. I glared at our driver and let out a mewl to alert him that this foreigner and Uber client was officially terrified and primed to give a poor rating, but he simply hiked his left elbow over his seat, craned his neck, said a few Lebanese-isms and put his foot down. He knew his countrymen would let him through – or at least smart enough to know that they should always look out for the one idiot on the road who’ll be trying something stupid. Back home, this would’ve set off massive road rage.

Lebanon reminded me that every country has its assets. There, the food, the warm people, the astounding history, the incredible buildings, the industrious attitude, the fruit and vegetables that taste so intense, the tolerance on the roads – it’s an exciting place to visit. It also has its difficulties: the ratio of Lebanese nationals to Syrian refugees is equal, I was told repeatedly; the tension of being a country in the Middle East; the traffic and density of Beirut; poor regulation of natural resources. It made me appreciate home.

We have so much here: glorious space, amazing accommodation, beautiful public parks in and around our cities. We have more than 20 national parks and nine national gardens. That’s not bad. Also, the environment is part of robust national discussion, and we have a Constitution that protects our environmental rights. We have a good base to work off and we can use it. So I came back from a great holiday with one overriding impression: in many ways, we’re doing okay, South Africa. And when I look at this edition with so many inspiring destinations, I’m so thankful to live in this amazing country, on this continent.

Enjoy this issue.

5 things to look out for in the September issue

Anyone for beach bats?

It’s time to take our kit off again – on the beach, I mean. So we’ve rooted out some of the best seaside options that are close to our cities so you can keep travel time down to a tick. Turn to page 68.

Exquisitely scary adventure

Turn to page 92 and imagine yourself there, in that magnificent landscape and under that frothy Milky Way in Namibia.

A new way to do Greece

Writer and columnist Helen Walne got a bee in her bathing suit for swimming in the wild. She says the waters around this Greek island are perfect for it (page 98).

Plan your next Karoo trip

Here are two ways you can do it: one budget and independent, the other curated. See page 78.

Look out for the good-value star

Each issue of Getaway has several inexpensive accommodation options, places to stay for under R550 pp (some for less) and that we think offer good value.

This month’s contributors

Don Pinnock – Namibia, page 88

Some time back Don realised he knew nothing about the natural world, so he set out to discover it. This took him to five continents – including Antarctica – and resulted in five books on natural history and hundreds of articles about his travels. His other books include award-winning Gang Town and a biography of anti- apartheid activist Ruth First. He is a former editor of Getaway magazine.

Helen Walne – Greece, page 98

Never the fastest but always in her element, writer and author Helen can be found practising her stroke in the frigid Atlantic Ocean around Cape Town. Having grown up largely terrestrial, with regular family hikes in the Drakensberg, she has swapped solid ground for liquid depths and become an annoyingly enthusiastic open-water swimmer. Her ambition now is to take on an ice swim somewhere where there is a lot of vodka.

Mohale Mashigo – Cape Town, page 123

Mohale is a Soweto-born author (of best-selling novels The Yearning and Beyond the River), comic-book writer, lover of wine and full-time book nerd. When she has free time, she cooks for friends or writes music. Before she started writing novels, she wrote (racy) Sweet Valley High fan fiction. As a speaker at Open Book Cape Town this year, she describes her adopted hometown for us.

 Teagan Cunniffe – Seychelles, page 62

Teagan first visited Seychelles with a good friend, Luc, during their varsity years. They swam, walked, drank mojitos while fishing from the rocks, woke at midnight to watch turtles nesting and built ‘shade fortresses’ out of beach chairs and sheets. Older and far more aware of the importance of sunscreen, she recently returned to the most island- lifestyle destination you can imagine: La Digue.

Read more in the September Getaway issue.

Get this issue →

Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!

The best way to get to know someone is to take them on a road trip. Even if it’s someone you already know…

Sweeping down and around the Maluti Mountains. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

If you had to make a Top 10 List of South Africa’s most memorable driving roads, the N3 from Gillooly’s Interchange in Joburg to the Engen in Harrismith probably wouldn’t be on it. The thought of rounding the puffing industria of Germiston and then crawling towards the featureless horizon of the country’s least-exciting plateau somehow just never captured the collective road-trippers’ imagination. But that 300-odd kilometre tribulation of national tar ranks at the top of mine. For me, it was where road trips began.

And they always began at 4am. Margate was usually the destination: a place so mythical and sublime that my father feared it would disappear if you arrived after noon. At least that’s what I suspected. It’s the only fathomable reason for having to leave so early. He was in charge of the timetable. And packing. And driving, of course; it was the 80s. My mother was the padkos manager, a Tupperware of tinfoil-wrapped sandwiches and fudge nestled at her feet.

I don’t remember all that much about the actual holidays, except that the ocean made my hair frizzy. Those dark hours on the road stand out more. Cat’s eyes whizzed towards us like shooting stars and the tyres rumbled softly on the asphalt and nobody said a word until the sun crept over the horizon and the neon light of the Harrismith Engen came into view.

In a strange twist of fate, I recently found myself on that very same highway with my mom. I was plotting a road trip for this issue (see page 50) and she had a weekend free and it sounded like a good idea.

We rounded Germiston at the very reasonable hour of 11am. At about 11.15am I realised it could well be the longest we’d be spending together in a car since those holidays more than 20 years ago. You see, if you’re lucky, family road trips turn into grand family holidays at seaside cottages bursting with cousins and uncles and significant others and their significantly newer babies. But sometimes they don’t. Sometimes your family shrinks, or it grows in another direction, or people move and things change and you get together when you can but it’s always too brief and there’s never enough time to get to know the people you already know.

And there’s no better place to remedy that than the inescapable confines of a car. Cripes. What if we run out of things to talk about? What if we don’t agree on the volume? What if we get into an argument? There’s nowhere to go. We should have taken a plane. At least you can get up and walk to the bathroom. Now there’s just the road, an endless horizon, and sheep.

‘Do you remember when we used to go on those early-morning road trips with Dad?’ Mom says. ‘Yeah, you know for the life of me I still don’t know why we used to have to leave so early. The coast is only five hours away.’

‘Me neither. It’s like he thought Margate was going to disappear.’

And we both laugh. And then we talk. And then we crest South Africa’s least-exciting plateau, still talking. We talk about the past, the future, and everything in between. And then somewhere near Clarens, with the sun low in the sky, we stop talking and both just stare out at the road ahead and listen to the tyres rumble softly on the asphalt.

And then the golden-red Malotis rise up in the distance and bare their sandstone chests and I realise that sitting in silence in a car with my mother feels like the most natural thing in the world. And why wouldn’t it? I used to do it all the time.

Read more in the September issue of Getaway.

Get this issue →

Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!

‘Africa’ and ‘snow’ are not commonly found in the same sentence. So when the opportunity arose to put
 a Fortuner into Lesotho’s fresh white powder I booked a flight. My friend and Lesotho local Glenn Jones, always up for an adventure, was already waiting when I landed at Durban’s King Shaka International Airport.

Even in the most remote parts of Lesotho you’ll come across roadworks.

‘The Sani Pass border closes at 6pm,’ he said. There was clearly no time for small talk. We sped south on the N2 and turned onto the N3, and then drove through Hilton, turning left towards Bulwer, Underberg and Himeville to Sani Pass, where we slipped through the border with little time to spare. Snow crunched underfoot as we ducked into the warmth of Sani Mountain Lodge. Our mission was to find spectacular driving roads and see if we could lay a track through a snowdrift or two along the way. Over the next few days we spoke with locals and fellow travellers, consulted maps and prodded at the Tracks4Africa app. This is the best of what we found:

Top of Sani Pass to Oxbow Lodge 
(3 – 4 hours)

The road between Sani and Afriski and beyond has always been really bad. The trip used to take hours, and if you broke down, days. Now you can leave the lodge around midday, fly along perfect tar through snow-dusted mountaintops and still get an afternoon’s skiing in. So that’s what we did. Our first stop was the 
town Mokhotlong. It’s ragged and small but is a reliable supply point. You can buy fuel (from a real fuel pump) and the general dealer next door sells everything from bread to spades. Get SIM cards and airtime one door down. Back on the main road we passed Letseng Diamond Mine and crested the mountain over Tlaeeng Pass. At 3255 metres above sea level it’s one of the highest motorable passes in Africa. The drive was absolutely beautiful. It’s perhaps why they call this road the A1.

A sign at Afriski Mountain Resort declares their restaurant ‘The Highest Restaurant in Africa’. This meant we’d been to Africa’s highest pub at Sani Mountain Lodge and driven along the continent’s highest motorable pass to its
 highest restaurant ‒ all in just one afternoon. Afriski is situated in a natural bowl, cabins clustered on the hill above the ski slopes. It looks stereotypical, replete with winter cabins and frozen ‘lakes’. We had no time or budget to ski but satiated our lust for fun knocking around on bum-boards on the kiddies’ slope. We left, sunburnt, exhausted but grinning and headed further along the A1 for a glimpse of the views over Moteng Pass before backtracking to New Oxbow Lodge for the night.

Glenn teeters on the fun side of disaster on Afriski’s kiddies slopes.

New Oxbow Lodge to Orion Katse Lodge (2 – 3 hours)

We headed south from New Oxbow Lodge on the A1, topped Tlaeeng Pass and turned west at the Katse sign. It’s roughly 32 kilometres to 
Kao Diamond Mine and the gravel road is in good condition. After the mine, however, the road becomes increasingly challenging: stony descents in places and slick in others. This was where we’d thought we’d get to drive in snow but by the time we arrived it had already been scraped away.

Oh well, the superb mountain views, sweeping switchbacks and fast, clean gravel would have to do. We arrived at a small bridge near Motebong Village in Ha Lejone. It’s a good place to stop, stretch your legs, eat and refuel. Fuel is only available in water bottles at the roadside for R20 per litre. From Ha Lejone we travelled on the twisty A8 tar road around Katse Dam (Africa’s highest dam) to Orion Katse Lodge, which overlooks it. Originally built to house the dam’s construction crews, the lodge is an excellent base from which to explore.

It’s usually cold and windy here on Moteng Pass, so bring a warm jumper and enjoy a sundowner in spectacular evening light.

Katse Village to Makhangoa Community Camp (1 – 2 hours)

The next morning we siphoned diesel from a cooking-oil drum, and headed west. The gravel road follows the dam wall along sheer cut-outs. To the right, the dam below gradually narrows into the Bokong River. It’s a languid drive, punctuated by stops 
for livestock driven by happy, sweet-craving herdboys. At the end of a thoroughly pleasant hour-long drive I pulled up the handbrake at a remote slip of wilderness ‒ Makhangoa Community Camp. Here, simple stone bungalows overlook
a trout- and yellowfish-rich Bokong River oxbow. The community helps to run the camp and, in turn, villagers gain experience in running a resort and earn income from the fees for the hiking, biking and fishing activities on offer. Over dinner Rob Scott, the co-owner of Makhangoa Community Camp, neatly sums up my experience, saying, ‘It’s mind-blowing that Lesotho is not a massive tourist destination. It’s so diverse and different to everything around us.’ He also tells us about an alternative route around the dam and back to Katse Village.

A young boy rides hi Basotho pony home after a night tending livestock in the hills; Makhangoa Community Camp has some of the best trout and yellowfish fly-fishing in Lesotho.

Makhangoa Community Camp 
to Katse Village 
(3 – 4 hours)

Rob’s route crosses the Bokong River and into the hills above Katse Dam. The dirt road is passable with some steep, loose sections and the odd eroded washout. In the cold, dry conditions the trail is not especially difficult but if it were to rain it would become very challenging. This pleasant two- and-a-half-hour detour finishes up at Ha Lejone. From there we hopped back onto the A8 and scooted along the twisties back to Katse Village.

Rosehip grows wild in Lesotho and is a source of income for locals who sell it to traders for use in tea and oils.

Katse Village
 to Mokhotlong 
(5 – 6 hours)

The next day we headed back towards Ha Lejone on the A8, turning off at Ha Makopela and immediately left on the dirt road along the river as you leave the village. An old chart shows this route as a bridal path and another declares it a 4X4-only track. The road crosses a river and ascends the opposite hill. It’s a bit tricky to find but the village of Ha Palama
, just before the river crossing, is a good landmark.

Always ask more than one person along the road for directions.

The surface of the road, which winds back and forth across the mountainsides, tracking rivers far below, varies from stony and rutted to relatively smooth. Of all the drives we’d explored, this is the most beautiful. The first half passes through populated areas. Around halfway it becomes virtual wilderness, devoid of huts or people. As the topography flattened, familiar Basotho horsemen appeared along the roadside. A short while later we joined up with the A1 and reluctantly heeded the call of home. We’d met great people and moved through some of Africa’s most spectacular landscapes. As for 4X4ing in snow? Well, besides stealing off the tracks to shoot photographs we encountered very few snowy 4X4ing opportunities.

Though it was disappointing, perhaps the upside here is that it will soon be entirely possible to visit popular parts of Lesotho in a family sedan.

The best Lesotho 4X4 directory

The A1 road, now tarred makes short work of the previously treacherous and slow passage across northern Lesotho.

When to go

Lesotho is beautiful throughout the year but your best chance of finding snow is in July and August.

What you need to know

South Africans do not need a visa and at present no vehicle papers are required either. Border opening and closing times are 6am to 6pm and entry costs from R30 to R50 per vehicle. In February 2016 it was still necessary to produce kids’ unabridged birth certificates. Things may have changed but enquire before you go. Go prepared to be self-sufficient for a few days. Fuel up wherever possible, including at your last stop in South Africa. Don’t stock up
on food and supplies in South Africa ‒ it’s entirely viable to buy supplies at general dealers in the bigger towns. Support your host economy.

Costs

Cost depends on routes, type of accommodation and length of stay.
 Our fuel, food and accommodation for four nights came to about R5000 per person for the trip. Staying in backpackers and self-catering would be substantially cheaper.

Activities

Take a community-run boat trip on the Katse Dam, which gets you right up close to the massive dam wall and offers a great perspective. From R330 per group for a 15-minute trip. Book at Orion Katse Lodge.

Walk the Katse Dam wall, the second-tallest on the continent (185 metres). A short presentation
 before you walk gives insight into the scale of 
the project and throws up some mind-blowing facts. From R20 per person. Book at Orion Katse Lodge.

Visit the Katse Alpine Botanical Garden in Katse Village, with 
the most incredible collection of succulents including the spiral aloe, Lesotho’s national plant. R10 per person.

Learn to ski at Afriski (in summer they offer downhill mountain biking, enduro trails and abseiling). The four-day package is
the best-value option.
It includes all passes, equipment and instruction. From R2420 per person for kids, R2900 per person for adults excluding accommodation, which starts at R295 per person in backpackers.

Places to stay

Snow outside Sani Mountain Lodge.

Sani Mountain Lodge has very comfortable en-suite rondavels
 and family rooms with roaring fireplaces and lots of blankets. The restaurant serves hearty buffet meals ‒ don’t forget to have a drink at the highest pub in Africa. From R1260 per person sharing. 0786347496. (S29 35.087’, E 29 17.295’)

New Oxbow Lodge may be somewhat dated but it’s perfectly comfortable and the
 staff is great. It’s a short 16-kilometre drive from Afriski and more affordable, so skiers use it as a quieter base for their skiing adventure. Rooms are gas heated and have en-suite bathrooms. From R490 per person sharing DBB in low season (December to February). 051933247. (S 28 46.263’, E 28 38.440’)

Orion Katse Lodge is by far the best accommodation option near the dam. They offer a heap of activities and the restaurant meals are generous and tasty 
(try the trout). Get a room overlooking the dam, sunrise is beautiful from here. From R350 per person for
 a dorm bed to R1799 
for a house (sleeps six). 08611488869. (S 29 19.823’, E 28 28.875’)

Makhangoa Community Camp has newly built bungalows overlooking the Bokong River. Take fishing rods, and binoculars if you’re
a twitcher. Rooms sleep our and there are self-catering or pre-booked dinner options. If the Wonderbag stew we devoured was anything to go by, I’d recommend pre-booking at least one dinner. From R500 per person. 0333422793. (S 29 16.909’,
E 28 23.035’)

Places to eat

Motebong Village restaurant serves great breakfasts (R100 per person). For lunch try the generous, pork chop main (R90 per person).

Lesotho Vetkoek ‒ known as makoenya ‒ is great, filling and, at R5, a super cheap snack.
It’s also a good opportunity to meet locals. Makoenya is available almost everywhere along the roadside. Just look out for plastic bowls overflowing with doughy, 
greasy goodness.

This article was originally published in the May 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our May issue is packed full of great holiday ideas. Get your copy today.

Swim in a warm sea and walk in the mountains without having to get in your car – base yourself here in Fish Hoek and enjoy the best family location in Cape Town.

Also read: Southern charm – a guide to Muizenberg

Fish Hoek is a playground for surfski enthusiasts. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

The insider: Local resident Carolyn Fulton can’t wait to get back to her hood after work every day. She sails, surfskis, swims, jogs, and rides her motorbike if the weather’s good.

So strong is the lure of Fish Hoek that Smudj, a six-year-old cat and ex-resident, doggedly hikes over the mountain back there from her new home in Glencairn whenever she gets a chance. Her ‘owners’ Carolyn Fulton and her husband Peter have retrieved Smudj from her favourite haunts no fewer than 13 times. The primal pull to a place of comfort is well documented in the animal world and we know humans share this, so it’s not surprising that Fish Hoek is awash with people who are fiercely protective of what others consider to be the ugly stepsister of the south, sandwiched between Kalk Bay and Simon’s Town.

I’m eating delicious tom-yum soup at Shin Thai Asian Restaurant, getting the inside on the village from Carolyn who lived here for 17 years, and still immerses herself in the abundant outdoor life. ‘I feel like I’m falling in love with it all over again, just by talking about it,’ she says to Marjike Klaver who has joined us. Marjike, a relative newbie to Fish Hoek (five years), is an ex-Harfield resident and would never leave. ‘Fish Hoek has a rep for being for newly-weds and nearly deads – I am neither,’ she laughs.

From left, Hazel Davies, Lorraine Lemmon-Warde, Maryna Poole, Carin Chisnall, Rose Jacobs, Jo Cullingworth and Desiree Watson; no beach holiday is the same without one of these ice creams from Drifters Takeaway on the beach (R13). Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

As I listen to their chat it’s clear that the beach is Fish Hoek’s main attraction. Enjoyed for its warm sea, locals spend idyllic hours wallowing in its waters or skimming its surface on any manner of water-sport vehicles from boogie boards, SUPs and surfskis to hobies, kayaks and canoes. Carolyn sails and surfskis in the bay. She’s had encounters with leaping seals and was once tailed by a shark, and tells me about surfskiers who drop into the water at Miller’s Point (five kilometres south) and race back to Fish Hoek beach, although she hasn’t done this yet.

Fish Hoek beach has been home to generations of trek fishermen. It’s an exciting community event when the boats arrive back and haul the nets onto the beach revealing their catch; early morning swimmers have their share of the beach too. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

‘It’s wild here,’ she enthuses, her eyes bright with excitement. ‘And on land too – violin spiders are prolific, lots of scorpions, porcupines, puff adders, cobras. I see francolins, small buck; oystercatchers on the rocks at the beach.’ What makes this valley so special is that it is surrounded by fantastic geography.

‘If you have time, hike up Elsie’s Peak,’ she encourages me. The mountain looms up to the south overlooking the bay and is a regular walk for her – invasive plants have been cleared to make way for the return of proteas, watsonias and gladioli; from here if you look east you’ll have marvellous views of Seal Island, the Hottentots Holland Mountains and Hangklip. Turn to the north for Kalk Bay and Muizenberg and the south for Glencairn and Simon’s Town. There’s also a walk to Peers Cave (Skildergat), where nine 12000-year-old skeletons, one known as Fish Hoek Man, were discovered by Bertie Peers and his father in 1927. Bertie’s enthusiasm for outdoor pursuits ultimately cost him his life when he was bitten by a puff adder.

There isn’t a bed to be had here. ‘You’re too late – sold out for your date,’ comes up time and time again, so I’m lucky to get a night at The Cove – a heavenly location overlooking the beach. Carolyn tells me to get there early so I’m up at dawn and already on Jager’s Walk (‘the catwalk’) by 6:30. There are locals on the footpath that hugs the southern section of the seashore. How wonderful it must be to walk this every day before work, what peace for the soul. I come down off the path onto the flat sand, which stretches ahead for over a kilometre. The sea moves in and out, gently cleansing my feet; fat seagulls squabbling over a fish head don’t move out of my way; dogs greet each other and a tall man looks down at the sand, his metal detector blinking.

Southern right and humpback whales are seen in the bay from June to November. The sound of their tails slapping the water at night keeps some folk awake. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe

There’s a young girl jogging and to my right a fully clothed man dunking himself in the sea. I get to the end and touch the abandoned railway sleepers tarnished from decades of salty seawater and abrasive sand. Walking back, I see the trek-fishermen boats ready to be launched; they’re hoping to net skipjack tuna or yellowtail today. And then I get nearer to early-morning swimmers walking towards the shoreline. Nonchalantly, they plunge into the sea. I’m too scared to swim – the shark exclusion net is not up yet! Instead I order a coffee at the beach cafe; it’s steaming hot and served with real cream.

Fish Hoek is a mix of old traditions and 21st-century living. Family-run shops such as AP Jones and Wakefords are landmarks having survived for decades; and the Defenders of Fish Hoek have succeeded in keeping the village free of bottle stores – a condition of the 1818 grant of land which was sold off as plots from 1918, heralding the start of the town. It’s about 8:00 now and the beach is filling up. The shark-net swimmers have done their job – like dolphins they’re now playing in the waves in their wetsuits. I walk towards them and dive in.

Where do locals go?

Michaela Daniels, waitress
‘Locals come to the beach of course. I’m so lucky, it’s where I work every day.’

Matthew Landsdale, shop manager
‘Peers Cave is a short hike with amazing views. Go from Silver-glades sports fields.’

Valentino Simmerie, shark spotter
‘Locals hang out at the beach and sit on the benches along Jager’s Walk.’

Grace Njoroge, waitress
‘For the best coffee and freshly baked croissants, locals go to C’est La Vie.’

Marijke Klaver, travel consultant
‘I go to the beach via Silvermine River wetlands – it’s an easy walk right on my doorstep.’

3 things to include during your stay

Locals flock to C’est La Vie cafe for delicious pastries and the vibe – this place may just make Fish Hoek hip; Dirt cheap holiday reads at CAFDA bookshop on Main Road; The Fish Hoek Valley Museum. Images by Teagan Cunniffe.

Take a train ride. The train runs along the coastline. Hop on at Fish Hoek station and get off at Kalk Bay for a browse (R21 return). You can walk back to Fish Hoek along the main road – about 15 minutes.

Spot a shark. Visibility into the water from the shark-spotters’ hut (off Contour Way) is remarkable. Also, a trek-fisherman waves a white flag from here to direct boats to the shoals. Summer 7:00 – 18:45.

Book at Reto HQ. Go for some pampering. The hair salon is in a prime position with a view over the bay, and its owner, Reto, is a fabulous world- famous stylist who loves False Bay. Tel 0217824234

Plan your trip to Fish Hoek

Getting there

There are a few scenic routes to Fish Hoek which start on Cape Town’s M3; for sea views along the coast road from the M3 turn left onto the M42, then right onto the M4, which brings you into Fish Hoek’s main road; for the route through Silvermine Nature Reserve turn right onto the M42, then take the M64 over Ou Kaapse Weg, then turn left onto the M65 which takes you into the town from the back end.

Stay here

I was content to sit at The Cove for hours watching the activity in the bay below.

The Cove has two beautiful apartments overlooking False Bay. You won’t want to leave here – the views and level of comfort are outstanding. From R1800 (sleeps up to six).

Whale Watchers’ Studio Apartment is perfect for romance and lovely sea views. From R1090 (sleeps two).

Dolphin Place is a very affordable pad in the centre of town. There’s a slice of mountain view from your bed. From R378, plus R150 cleaning fee (sleeps two).

Eat here

You have to lick one of these to get into seaside mode; Calamari and chips from Fish Hoek Fisheries. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

C’est La Vie serves excellent food. Locals pop in to buy the bread and pastries. R18 for a coffee. 4 Recreation Road, tel 0836767430.

Bhandaris serves the best curry – I ordered the lamb rogan for R129. 25 Main Road, tel 0217821525.

Fish Hoek Fisheries is your go-to. People up the line come here because the fish is so fresh. Try the calamari and hake. From R32 a portion.43 Main Road, tel 0217822314.

The Beachcomber Bistro is on the beach. There is a takeaway section or sit at a table outside – you can’t beat the location. Meals from R29,95. 3 Peter Creese Way, tel 0217823354.

Do this

Shark Spotter Christopher Issacs helps the team to deploy the shark-exclusion net (environmentally friendly, it’s designed to minimise shark-human conflict); Reto Camichel at his salon. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Swim at the famous beach. The increased presence of sharks and fatalities compelled authorities to put up a shark-exclusion net in 2015. Life-savers are on duty over weekends in summer from 14:00 – 18:00 (Saturday) and 10:00 – 18:00 (Sunday). There is a lovely rock pool to explore called ‘Skellies’, accessed off Jager’s Walk – great for kids.

Stroll along Jager’s Walk. It starts at the southern end of the beach and ends near Sunny Cove train station. If you’re feeling energetic, walk the remaining 5km to Simon’s Town (there is pavement alongside the main road) and return on the train. R10,50 one-way ticket.

Hire a SUP board from Great White Sport & Surf. R150 for half day, R250 full day (with paddles and leash). 55 Main Road, tel 0217823360.

Aqua Trails rent out kayaks and canoes for R400 a day (paddles and PFDs included). 150 Main Road, tel 0217827982. Both outlets offer advice on water conditions. On Fridays at 18:00 there’s a Sea Dog surfski race, exciting to watch, but if you surfski and want to race, register at the lifesaving club on the beach at 17:00. Entry is R20. Tel 0825362160

Go fishing. Spin for yellowtail off Jager’s Walk in summer and also rock and surf angle from here. Great White Sport & Surf sells bait from R30, and a rod, reel and line combo from R240. Make sure to pick up your discarded line for recycling.
55 Main Road, tel 0217823360.

Visit Fish Hoek Valley Museum. It’s a well-kept record of local history, with lovely old photographs and displays of stone tools used by the San 150 000 years ago. Open from Tuesday to Saturday 9.30am – 12.30pm. Entry is R6. 59 Central Circle, tel 021782782.

Hike Elsie’s Peak. Described as a fairly energetic walk, allow about two hours with dawdles. Get directions at the museum. 59 Central Circle, 021-782-1752 Explore Peers Cave in the Skildergat Ridge overlooking Sun Valley. Allow for about an hour. Ask for directions at the museum. 59 Central Circle,tel 0217821752.

Shop here

CAFDA is a second-hand charity bookshop selling light holiday reads to the classics, all dirt cheap. From R5. 34 Main Road, tel 0741499082.

AP Jones has been retailing since 1928 and is run by Jones’ grandsons. 98 Main Road, tel 0217826111.

Great White Sport & Surf sells everything you need for a beach holiday from buckets and spades (R25 a set) to bikinis and sunglasses (from R195). 55 Main Road, tel 0217823360.

Valyland Centre is in the heart of residential Fish Hoek where many locals shop. It’s quiet and parking is easy. Shops range from a pharmacy and health shop to a post office. Corner of Ivanhoe and Upper Recreation Road.

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

Nature, health, sun and beautiful beaches. Port St Johns is a place where you can find your soul – plus a whole lot of magic.

Skip to the Port St Johns travel planner

Gorgeous sunset close to the old landing strip in Port St Johns.

In the movie Man On Ground, Timothy says to Ade, ‘Port St Johns. I went there once with my mother. It was the only time I ever saw her smile’. A similar thought crosses my mind as I make the journey into this place of magic. Magic: l call it that because I can’t quite define what it is that’s in the air here. A friend of mine, Khumo, says it’s something in the water. Whatever it is, this place is special, and I must bring my mom and dad to Port St Johns one day soon.

I’m making my way towards the Isinuka Mud Caves and sulphur pools, found in a thick forest about a 10-minute-drive from town. When I moved to Cape Town early last year, I took a road trip from Durban to Mthatha and stopped in at Port St Johns (or PSJ, as it’s referred to by locals). I only stayed two days but my heart was stroked. I swore I’d return.

A view of Second Beach in Port St Johns from Amapondo Backpackers.

The drive into this sacred place is like déjà vu, with its gravel and rocky road and the vibrant leaves leaning into the road, almost brushing the car on either side. As soon as I exit the car, Phozisa Mpinda greets me sincerely and offers to accompany me up to the caves and pools. She lives in the area with her family and grew up watching hundreds upon hundreds of people visit the traditional healing site of the Pondo people. ‘Bring a bottle, two if you can,’ she instructs me. Phozisa’s extended family sits at the foot of the path. They welcome me and we exchange some words and laughs before I make my way up to the caves.

Isinuka means Place of the Smell ‒ there’s a sulphuric whiff in the air that’s emitted by the springs. The cave is cool and smells of damp sand, reminding me of playing outside after the rain when I was a child. ‘The clay is good for the face and heals scars and acne, the sulphur and springs are good for rejuvenation and healing,’ Phozisa says, filling a bottle with the ochre mud. The other bottle is filled with salty water.

I stay at Amapondo Backpackers Lodge for a few nights. This is where my first taste of PSJ began in 2014. PSJ is a village, and like most villages, the people here are friendly, laid-back and warm. I’ve arrived expecting nothing, although I’m hoping to meet the legendary Ben Dekker and the healers of Pondoland. I enquire about Dekker – one-time actor, writer, politician, artist and activist who has lived here for almost 40 years – and everyone has interesting things to say about him. ‘Just buy a bottle of wine and go find him in the caves,’ one chimes. ‘I always give him R30 or R50, he’s old and doesn’t work, you know,’ someone else says.

My stay at Amapondo begins with a fantastic homemade burger ‒ and a bright red wig, bestowed on me by the lodge’s manager, Mazz, as more guests arrive. Soon I’m playing pool and exchanging tales with South Africans and internationals alike. And that’s the thing about the vibe at backpackers ‒ it’s not dingy or weird; the people here simply live a little more freely, are keen on finding out about one another and share the same sleeping space (dorms), but there’s always a private option.

The incredible view over the Mzimvubu River as it reaches the sea.

I meet Stuart Kriel, once a multimillionaire married to a model, who now calls PSJ home and manages a three-star hotel. ‘All the misfits of society end up here,’ he says with a laugh. Well, I reckon the term misfit was invented by a guy uncomfortably stuck in a box, conforming to the mainstream. I’d soon discover what he means. Stuart and I walk to the beach, to Ben Dekker’s pool – he created it by hand on the shore by strategically placing individual rocks.

The next morning Sibusiso Langa, Amapondo’s graceful barman, takes me and visitor Ian Gafney on a little exploration of the town. We start at the top of Mount Ethesinger where there’s an old, but still functioning, airstrip. From here we can see the gorge known as the Gates of St Johns and sandstone peaks Mount Thesiger and Mount Sullivan on either side of the river. Next we turn on to a rocky dirt road to Poenskop, First Beach. The village lies on rolling hills and at its edge the mountain face drops to a beautifully blue shoreline, white waves flouncing at the surface. The views are unimaginable and there’s complete silence, even though it is windy.

A group of five young boys begin to follow me, curious, and bored I guess. They end up singing me a Xhosa song with the inflections in the right places, expressions shy and blank. I wish I knew isiXhosa like the Pondos do – deep and poetic.

The waters of Magwa falls tumble down 124 metres; morning light streams down the path on a sunrise ramble. Photo by Vuyi Qubeka.

Our last stop is the Cape Hermes Lighthouse, an easy walk with endless views of the sea to the right and colourful huts on bushy hills to the left. From my bed in Turtle Cove Cottage at Amapondo, I can hear the sea. In the morning, the birds are up at dawn (250 species have been recorded in the area) and the sun warms my right foot as it creeps through the windows of the double-storey.

I’m still no closer to figuring it out – this thing here. There’s an ever-present silence in the air. The cars and people seem quieter, gentler, and the river, mountains and forests create a humbling and grounding tenor. The people are just as real as the surrounding nature, and vice versa. The beaches are gold and the waters true blue. I rise and wander towards the beach. I’m determined to find Ben. He’s either at the abandoned lodge across the way or in his cave, they told me. I don’t find him at the former, but come across his rondavel. A sign above the door says ‘Ben’s Shack’. I saunter towards Second Beach and along the clifftop, high above the sand. The rising sun pierces through the mist.

The path splits and I notice some sculptures on a makeshift gate. Promise. Right at the end of the path, through the gate, is a tall old man with white hair and a beard, wearing a colourful beanie. His posture is strong, he’s in quirky casual dress, and busy in the garden. It’s Ben. I greet him, we share the longest hug, and he lets me in. He offers me a boiled egg for breakfast and then takes me on a tour of his property, telling me about plants and driftwood art found at sea. He’s a walking encyclopaedia. He shows me the room Nelson Mandela – whom he knew from his political days – stayed in with Graça Machel.

The welcoming lounge at Umngazi River Bungalows, near Port St johns, where families have been returning year after year for the natural beauty and child-friendly atmosphere.

‘You have to stay here for a little while to really get it, but it’s the people. It’s beautiful. It’s peaceful. It’s wild,’ Stuart had said. I begin to see it. Later that morning, I meet a healer referred to me by a friend of a friend. Dontsa’s air commands respect and his energy is intense. We head to Magwa Falls and he tells me of the times he camped with his friends in the cracks of the rock face deep at its bottom. He has known this land since he was a boy. The water crashes behind us in the distance. Dontsa knows plants. He grew up traversing the mountains and it’s from nature that he gets his guidance, and from which he creates his medicines. Call them homeopaths or traditional healers, in Pondoland they are referred to as sangomas.

Dontsa accompanies me to The Kraal in Mpande, where we stay the night. The next morning, we rise at five to catch the sunrise. To sangomas, water is divinity and it’s evidenced in this moment. We clamber over the rocks, scanning the pools and he stops, prodding his walking stick in the sea. He extracts a sea urchin, explaining its healing powers. Then, he picks up shells – I’d never seen so many, so beautiful – and tells me of their function. He gives me some to take home, including one for impilo, vitality.

There’s a man fishing and a woman passes us with a bucket of oysters she has picked herself. Ports St Johns is a place where people are still largely free, where no one owns the beaches, and there are no mansions on the hills above them. It’s a place where people of all types take ownership of their space and feel they fully belong to it. Even in my bright red wig, I felt totally comfortable. This town is definitely a mixed bag, but it’s a place where you’re able to be yourself; a place where energy comes from the robust nature surrounding Port St Johns.

Plan your trip to Port St Johns

A local woman carries oysters picked from the shore in Port St Johns.

Getting there

I flew from Cape Town to Durban, which cost R1 556 return and then drove along the coast to Port St Johns which took about five hours. It’s an easy, eye-gasmic route. For
a shorter drive, fly to Mthatha and take a scenic 90-kilometre drive to Port St Johns. Airline tickets aren’t cheap though and start at about R5 000 return from Joburg.

Need to know

While most lodges and backpackers offer tours of the town, it might be more enjoyable to explore on your own (especially if you are with kids), but you’ll need a car, and the higher the clearance, the better. While not all roads are tarred, they aren’t too bad, but expect some stretches of rocky and uneven terrain. I drove a sedan but the clearance was high so bear that in mind. Exploring on foot is very doable, just ask locals for tips, and bring comfortable walking shoes.

Do this

Isinuka Mud Caves and Sulphur Pools is found along a forest- lined gravel road. Bring an old costume (it gets muddy), lie in the sun and then jump into the springs to cool off ‒ and get some healing at the same time. Entrance is free. Tel 0475641187.

Second Beach is the most popular, and it’s pretty. Pack a picnic and see how the locals interact with the space. It’s used in various ways: you’ll see kids, sangomas, surfers and anglers. There have been recorded
shark attacks, so be cautious.

Magwa Falls is near Mbotyi and in the district of Lusikisiki. With a drop of 144 metres, it’s a sight worth seeing ‒ it’s beauty changes from every angle, so spend a bit of time there.

Poonskop Beach is very secluded and quiet ‒ an angler’s haven. What’s more delightful is that fishing is free everywhere on the beach (as are most of the activities above), and you can meet local anglers and share stories while waiting for the big catch. visiteasterncape.co.za

Stay here

You’ll find it hard to beat the prime location of Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa. Photo by Christopher List.

Amapondo Backpacker Lodge is part lodge, part backpackers and has a quirky, island-style vibe. You’re likely to meet local and international travellers. There are often parties and they have colourful wigs for guests to wear… it’s serious stuff, so don’t stay here if this isn’t your thing. The cottages are far away enough to make things comfortable for those seeking privacy. From R160 per person for dorms, R650 for a double room (sleeps two). There’s also camping for R100 per person. Tel 0833153103.

Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa has fun decor and is family- oriented (read: kids). It’s luxe but in a laid-back way and they have a schedule of activities for children that changes daily. The honeymoon suites are at the river’s edge, a little pricier but worth it for the tranquillity. From R1145 per person sharing DBB. Tel 0475641115.

The Kraal at Mpande Beach, 20 kilometres from Port St Johns, has minimal electricity and no Wi-Fi. It’s completely off the grid. You fall asleep to the crashing sea and wake up the same way, and the beach is just minutes
away. The double huts are R250 per person, dorms R160 per person and camping is R110 per person. Tel 0828714964.

Eat here

Steve’s Pub & Restaurant serves a good cheap breakfast, bunny chow and other South African foods. It’s a hang-out spot for locals and the facebrick bar with wooden trimmings and wooden tables and chairs give it an old-school feel. It’s also part gallery ‒ but a small part. Tel 0475641057.

This story first appeared in our December 2015 Getaway issue.

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We’ve got 19 travel ideas for an awesome summer in SA, gorilla tracking in Rwanda, best mountain-bike trails in KZN and Obie Oberholzer in Cuba.

There’s plenty to do on rainy days in Cape Town and all of these activities are either indoors or under cover, so you won’t get wet.

We found 25 cool things to do in Cape Town – even when it’s raining. Photo by Kati Auld.

The minute it rains in Cape Town, most people snuggle under the duvet or switch on the telly! However, we found plenty to do if you feel like getting out and about on a rainy day.

Also read: things to do with kids in Cape Town

1. Browse through books

Libraries are always good place to go to browse books, but some bookshops allow you to flip through the pages of a novel, recipe book or travel guide without making you buy the book first. Some even go as far as to have comfy seating to make the experience even more indulgent. For your rainy day book fix, visit Kalk Bay Books in Kalk Bay or The Book Lounge in Roeland Street, who also serve coffee and kids can enjoy storytelling and crafts every Saturday. Exclusive Books also encourages browsing and they have outlets throughout the city, some with a coffee shop conveniently attached.

2. Have a cup of tea

There can be nothing more civilised than a cup of tea in a beautiful teacup and a cucumber sandwich – with the crusts removed of course. Cape Town has quite a few options when it comes to High Tea with one of the most well-known ones being The Mount Nelson (from R255 per person). The Cape Grace has ‘Cream Tea’, which is something a little lighter for R75 per person, The One & Only charges R195 per person and the Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa has ‘Tea by the Sea’ for R295 per person. However, another good option is the The President Hotel for R195 per person.

3. Go dancing

Dancing in the rain may be one thing, but there’s nothing like a little boogie to get you warmed up on a rainy winter’s evening. Que Pasa holds weekly salsa dance parties on Friday nights at 91 Loop Street (R30 entrance fee) and on Sundays at the Buena Vista Social Café in Long Street (R30 entrance fee). Both events have food and drinks specials on the night.

If swing dancing is more your thing, then be sure to sign up for the Cape Town Swing newsletter or follow their Facebook page, to find out where the next Swing Social is going to be held. Previous swing venues include the V&A Waterfront, Shimmy Beach Club and Alliance Francaise.

4. Go to the theatre in an old church

Watch a theatre production in what was a church at the Fugard Theatre.

Sandwiched between modern buildings in what was the Congregational Church Hall is The Fugard Theatre. Named in honour of South Africa’s greatest playwright, Athol Fugard, it’s the most intimate theatre you’ll ever experience. Be mesmerised by stained glass windows as you’re swept away by a piano recital, immersed in a play or laughing at a comedy show. A bar in the foyer serves drinks before and after shows.

Tip: After the show, be sure to pop in at Dust & Dynamite up the road – it’s the closest you will get to a real Western bar, complete with saloon doors.

5. Do dinner and movie

Take date night to a whole new level with this opulent hotel’s Dinner and a Movie Package. Indulge in an evening of wining and dining in the award-winning Azure Restaurant at the 12 Apostles with a specially-created movie menu, followed by a screening of a film in the private cinema. Expect plush leather seats and a state-of-the-art flat screen with Dolby surround sound. A lavish assortment of goodies, including popcorn, hot chocolate, milkshakes and candy are also available during the screening.

6. Release your inner detective at HintHunt

If you consider yourself a strategic thinker and love solving puzzles, then HintHunt in Woodstock will give you the perfect opportunity to embrace all of that when you get locked in a room for 60 minutes with a small team of people and have to work through a series of puzzles and mysteries in order to find your way out. There are four games to choose from, including crime scene investigations and submarine warfare.

7. Tuck into a Sunday roast

The roast at Beerhouse on Long Street. Photo by Rachel Robinson.

There’s nothing like a delicious roast with plenty of crispy potatoes and fresh vegetables served with a great big dollop of gravy! There are plenty of spots to choose from for this traditional Sunday lunch, but our favourites are the Suikerbossie Restaurant, The President Hotel and The Lord Nelson Inn. Also try the Azure Restaurant at the Twelve Apostles Hotel for a truly lavish buffet affair. If you’re on a budget, you can’t beat Dixies in Glencairn or McPhearsons in Table View.

Also read: 10 places to go for Sunday roast in Cape Town

8. Expand your mind

Learn something new about the world of science, technology, mathematics and engineering at the Cape Town Science Centre. With over 250 interactive exhibits, interactive displays, hands-on experiments and mind-boggling puzzles, it’s great educational fun for grown-ups as well as kids.

9.Warm up by a fireplace

Cosy up on an antique chair by the fireside at The Charles Cafe.

A roaring fireplace is the perfect remedy for rainy day blues and there is no shortage of spots with fireplaces in the city. Kloof Street House is a vibrant restaurant in an old Victorian house, with a collection of interesting rooms and spaces, while The Charles Café in De Waterkant has a cosy fireplace, complete with comfortable antique chairs, to snuggle up to while you enjoy a meal. Some others include Harbour House Restaurant, Rick’s Café Americain, Café Paradiso, Pastis Brasserie, De Oude Welgemoed Bistro and Jonkershuis to name a few.

Also read: seven great fireplace restaurants in Cape Town and Joburg

10. Support the locals at an indoor market

From flowers to cookies and everything in between, the Earth Fair Food Market in Tokai often has live bands too.

Cape Town has many indoor markets where you’ll find anything from locally grown vegetables to homemade cheese and cured meats, to hand-sewn cushion covers, vintage clothing and more. Plus some of the markets have local bands, creating a fun atmosphere. Our favourite under-cover markets include The Bay Harbour Market (which has a giant fireplace) in Hout Bay, The Bluebird Market in Muizenberg, Oranjezicht City Farm Market at V&A Waterfront, Earthfair Food Market in Tokai and Market at The Palms in Woodstock.

Also read: From antiques to artichokes, here are 16 of the best markets around Cape Town

11.Try a craft beer tour

The Taproom at Devil’s Peak Brewery has plenty of good specials, beer on tap and some good views of the city too.

Craft beer breweries are popping up everywhere and most of them offer tasting options along with beer on tap and a variety of food options to go with your pint. The Taproom at Devil’s Peak Brewing Company has a tasting tray, along with weekly specials and a menu designed to pair well with beer (they also serve wines and various hand-crafted liquors too). The Woodstock Brewery also has various weekly specials, beers on tap and tasting options and the Brewers Co-Op is nearby, serving reasonably-priced craft beers brewed by its members. In the city centre, a visit to the popular Beerhouse on Long is a must for beer-lovers with their massive selection of craft beers and delicious food options. They also have meet-the-brewer evenings, Free Beer Fridays and other events. Or join a Super Cool Beer Tour for a half-day tour of some of the best micro-breweries in the city.

12.Go wine tasting

Diemersdal on the Durbanville Wine Route is worth a visit in any weather.

If a Pinot Noir is more to your liking than a Pale Ale, there a plenty of wine tasting options in the city too! Constantia Glen has lovely views over the valley and their cheese and charcuterie platters go very well with a bottle a wine. Beau Constantia also boasts incredible views right to the coastline, along with the award-winning Chefs Warehouse restaurant serving a set tapas menu. Other wine farms worth visiting along the Constania Wine Route include Eagle’s Nest, Steenberg and the oldest wine farm in South Africa, Groot Constantia. If you don’t fancy being the designated driver, then join The Constantia Wine Tour for a full day’s tour of the wine farms, including tastings, lunch and refreshments. A bit further afield, but well worth the drive, is the Durbanville Wine Route with no fewer than 12 wine farms to explore.

Also read: 10 wine routes near Cape Town that you don’t already know about

13. Have a spa treatment

A pampering session is always a wonderful treat, whether you choose to have a a pedicure, an Indian head massage or hot stone therapy. Try O on Kloof Boutique Hotel & Spa with Africology balms to help you unwind; a deep tissue massage using a bamboo stick at the Cayenne Spa; or an Indian healing treatment at The Taj. For a spa with a view, you cannot beat the Heavenly Spa on the 19^th floor of the Westin hotel – and they have some affordable special offers.

14. Watch a movie in the oldest cinema in town

Originally a ballroom, The Labia Theatre was opened in 1949 for live performances. Nowadays, you can enjoy art-house movies in the oldest independent art cinema in the country. Step into the past with the old-fashioned ticket stubs, popcorn in a brown paper packet and a Coca-Cola in a glass bottle. You can buy dinner-and-a-movie tickets for two, or pop in to the coffee bar for a hot chocolate or a glass of wine with the arty crowd.

Step into the past when you go to the movies at The Labia Theatre, which opened in 1949.

15. Visit a museum

A visit to the South African Museum is a fun day out for the whole family. See 700-million year old fossils, stone tools made 120000 years ago and learn more about how people lived hundreds of years ago. Next door, the Planetarium will transport you through the wonders of the universe while you sit comfortably in your seat – the ultimate in armchair travel!

The District Six Museum tells the stories of the 60000 people forcibly removed from the District Six area in 1901 with photographs, memories, signage and more, while the South African Jewish Museum will take you on a journey through the cultural history of Jewish life and Judaism in general.

The world of medicine (and how far we’ve come) is a fascinating one, with the Cape Medical Museum being the place to view the path of medical history, while the Heart Transplant Museum plays homage to the incredible people behind the first heart transplant in the world that took place right here in Cape Town!

Rugby fans will enjoy the Springbok Experience Rugby Museum with it’s interesting interactive displays, photos and memorabilia. Plus you can test your kicking, passing, fitness and reaction skills in the interactive ‘Springbok Trials’ games zone.

Breathe a sigh of relief when you see how far medicine has come at The Cape Town Medical Museum.

16. Get away with murder

If you believe you got what it takes to apprehend a cold hearted killer, solve a mystery or even get away with murder, then book a night with the Murder Mystery crew for an evening filled with danger, secrets and scandal while meeting new people and treating your taste-buds. If you don’t feel like going out, they can also organise a murder-mystery event at your home.

17. Play golf in a cave

The Scratch Patch is a wonderful spot for kids on a rainy day, but even grown-ups will enjoy it.

Most of the putt-putt options in Cape Town are outside, and subject to the whims of the weather – but not this one. Cave Golf at the V&A Waterfront is an 18-hole putt putt course inside a man-made cave, complete with tricky angles, uneven surfaces and some interesting obstacles. It’s also right next door to the Scratch Patch, where kids will love scratching through over 100 different semi-precious stones for brightly coloured treasure.

18. Take in some art

If you’re an art buff, the South African National Art Gallery houses collections of South African, African, British, French, Dutch and Flemish art, along with temporary exhibitions of paintings, photography, sculpture and more. For local arts and crafts, the Montebello Design Centre in Newlands is home to a broad spectrum of designers and artists, from jewellers to painters and potters, along with an enchanting nursery housed in one of the oldest greenhouses in South Africa.

19. Warm up with a curry

Bukhara can be a pricey curry option, but their lunch specials are an absolute bargain!

Nothing warms you up quite like a spicy dish, so head out for a curry (or order in) at one of the many Indian or Malay restaurants in The Mother City. We have a few we can recommend – read our Cape Town curry blog here – with the most notable ones being the Bombay Brasserie, Thali (tapas-style), Vintage India, Bukhara (try their affordable lunch specials) and Café Soul.

Also read: 18 great curry restaurants in Cape Town

20. Get up close with a shark or meet an octopus

Explore, experience and engage at The Two Oceans Aquarium, home to one of only two kelp forest displays in the world and home to over 3000 living sea creatures, including sharks, fish, turtles and penguins. There’s plenty to explore here on a rainy day and make sure you don’t miss the spectacular display of jellies. Interesting fact: jellyfish are not called jellyfish anymore as they are not fish.

21. Discover the world of diamonds

Apart from drooling over diamonds that are worth as much as an entire small country, the fascinating tour at the Cape Town Diamond Museum will take you through the history of the world’s oldest and most desirable treasure. Find out how the engagement ring came to be, watch diamond cutters creating masterpieces and see replicas of famous diamonds such as The Cullinan, The Hope and The Taylor Burton. The best part? A diamond ring may empty your bank account, but the tour is free!

22.Take a Turkish steam bath

Spending an hour or more in a steam room is a great way to keep warm on a rainy day! Have a relaxing session at the Long Street Baths in an iconic building building from 1908. Plus, it’s very reasonably priced. Just note, times at the Turkish baths are gender based, so check the days and times they are open to you.

23. Enjoy a cup of coffee

Origin are part of the rise of the artisan coffee culture in South Africa.

Cold, rainy days and a hot steaming cup of coffee in a cosy coffee shop go hand in hand! Bean lovers should head to Deluxe Coffeeworks, Tribe Coffee Roasting Company, The Haas Collective and Origin Coffee Roasting to name a few. Notably, Truth Coffee was voted as the best coffee shop in the world by The Telegraph in 2016 and their outlet in Buitenkant street will find favour amongst steampunk fans (meanwhile, their Prestwich Memorial branch is housed in what was the city’s morgue making for a more macabre spot for cuppa!) If you are visiting Khayelitsha, then don’t miss having an affordable coffee at the trendy Department of Coffee, situated right next to the train station – it’s a local community success story that has Capetonians very proud.

24. Get on the bus

The Red City Tour heads along the Sea Point Promenade towards the Waterfront.

Taking a topless bus tour of the city may seem like a silly idea on a rainy day, but they do have seats inside too – and you’ll be able to miss the crowds. Take a seat on the red City Sightseeing Bus and watch the world go by, or hop on and off at various places of interest (remember to take your brollly if you are going to hop on and off). If you listen to the commentary, you will learn a lot about the city and there’s a kid-friendly version too. Plus children get a free activity pack with a colouring-in book and crayons which helps keep them occupied.

25. Visit the V&A Waterfront

The Clocktower in stormy weather at the V&A Waterfront.

As a rule, shopping centres are not much fun at all, but the V&A Waterfront has much more than just shopping to offer. Yes, there are plenty of designer shops and local stores to browse through if you fancy spending a rainy day looking for a warm woollen scarf or pair of leather boots, but there’s other things to do too. You could go to the movies, have high tea, tuck into a meal (the V&A Waterfront has plenty of winter specials at their restaurants), go on tours, look at art, enjoy a pint at a pub and much more. Plus, if it’s raining, then most people stay at home, so you could have the whole place to yourself!

What do you like to do on a rainy day in The Mother City? Let us know in the comments below!

On a hot summer’s day, our columnist finds the coolest place in the city.

Rome by Luc Mercelis.

It was Piano Day in the Borghese Gardens.

I don’t know if Piano Day is a regular thing or if I was just lucky to stumble across it on a baking summer’s Sunday last month. Rome is too hot in July – the heat gathers in the great stone bowl of the city and reflects off cornices and pediments and cobbles and all the piled-up centuries, so I climbed the Spanish Steps to find the breeze that rustles the trees and catches the top of the Pincian Hill.

There were the usual people you find in the Borghese Gardens: dazed tourists wearily rejoicing to have escaped the broiling streets and incessant sights below; loving couples all hands and lips without a private room of their own; little girls on scooters; old men on benches reading paperback novels; middle-aged pony-tailed photographers leading around nervous wannabe models carrying high-heels by the straps. On a patch of gravel beside a clock surrounded by palms, a grand piano had been carried onto a rectangle of plastic sheeting, and passersby sat on cushions to listen to people play it.

Anyone could take their turn at the keyboard. There were obviously professionals: I watched a jazz guy in sunglasses play ‘Round Midnight’; I watched a fellow with a shock of snowy hair play a Bach prelude. But there were also casual pianists who just happened to be there: a quiet young man with a rolled-up newspaper in his back pocket, who bumbled and noodled over something I couldn’t recognise; a woman who was pushed and prodded by her friends until she protestingly sat down and played ‘The Way We Were’ as badly as it is possible to play it, and finished to a volley of cheers and high-fives.

I sat beside a teenager who fretted and fumbled with some pages of sheet music. I wanted to nudge him and smile and encourage him to go up, but he was too lost in his private world of dread.

Then I noticed two girls, maybe sisters. One was tall and about 12, the other more like seven or eight and was small and wore glasses. They were edging nearer the piano, ready to take their turn. The older one was cool and collected and looked serene and ready to show what she could do; the younger chewed her nails and scanned the crowd anxiously. You could see what she was thinking: are these friendly faces? Will anyone shout at me if I get it wrong? Will they boo? I tried to make my face look friendly and encouraging but not too expectant, so as to reduce the pressure. I probably looked like some kind of predator.

The older sister played something and she was elegant and accomplished but I was too nervous to listen properly. I was watching the younger one, who was blinking behind her spectacles, swallowing heavily. Would she panic? Would she run? I would run if I were her. I would run like the wind.

Her sister finished and it was her turn. She sat, and looked at the crowd one more time. She pursed her lips. She blinked slowly. Then she turned to the keyboard and started playing the ‘Moonlight Sonata’. It was a hot, bright Roman day but from her fingers flowed a cool night in a rowboat on Lake Geneva, a breeze on our faces, the ripples in the water making their own small shadows on the silver.

She finished and beamed, flushed with triumph, and bowed extravagantly to our applause – a deep bow, with one hand on her belly and the other outstretched above her head – and then the two little girls ran hand-in-hand to their bikes and pedalled away into the rest of their lives.

Read more in the September Getaway issue.

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Our September issue features 11 amazing beach cottages, two ways to see the Klein Karoo, a windswept 4X4 drive in Namibia, our guide to swimming in Greece and much more!

Nothing brings South Africans together quite like a potjie, simmering away gently for hours – and nothing divides them as fast as someone trying to stir it. We asked for your all-time best potjie tips over on Facebook, and the advice was just too good not to share. Any more ideas? Feel free to bombard us in the comments!

Potjiekos. Sunset. Dunes. Perfection. Photo by Kati Auld.

Try our best potjie recipes:

• Favourite oxtail potjie recipe
• Chicken, mushroom and biltong potjie recipe
• Beef trinchado potjie recipe
• Yes, you can make pasta puttanesca in a potjie
• How to make carrot cake in a potjie

1. Put down that spoon

This is the first, fundamental rule for potjie cooking, which was by far the most popular tip from readers. (We like your priorities.) As phrased by Donald Pittendrigh: ‘Pack in layers and never, ever stir.’

2. It’s all about the seasoning

There’s a reason old potjie pots are the best. Hans Hannweg’s advice is to find a friend with a well-seasoned potjie which is really smooth, and to present them with a brand new one by means of exchange to demonstrate your friendship. (Parting with an old favourite is a pretty big display of friendship in our book – would you give yours up?)

3. Place your coals carefully

According to Michael J. Wilcox, the best way to avoid burning your potjie is to make sure that there are no coals under the lowest point of the potjie. Keep the heat just outside of the legs and the radiant heat will do the rest.

4. It’s all about the pairings

‘Don’t underestimate the power of a good cut of venison paired with fruit,’ says Claudia Henriques Delmont. Her favourite is springbok with the sweetness of apricots soaked in OBS – sounds like a killer combo!

Potjie time! Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

5. Nominate one potato as tribute

Peet Buys has a nifty trick for knowing when the potjie is done: ‘leave one potato out and put this right at the top of the pot. When this potato is done, the rest of the pot should be done too.’

6. There’s more than one way to soften meat

Usually you’d add red wine to a red meat potjie – but Jessica Müller says that the absolute best way to tenderise meat is to add Coca-Cola. Now you know.

7. Boiling is forbidden

The whole point of a potjie is to cook over a low heat for a long time. A number of readers offered pithy aphorisms for the importance of low heat – ‘your pot should whisper, never boil,’ said Nasika Arthi Baijnath. Even more succinct was Pete Mafutha’s advice: ‘a boiled stew is a soiled stew.’ Harsh but true.

Veggie potjie. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe/Vuyi Qubeka

8. It’s all about enriching

‘Add a good dollop of real butter half an hour before serving,’ says Jo Adams. In French cuisine, this is referred to as ‘mounter au beurre.’ We just call it delicious.

9. Keep it merry – but not too merry

According to our readers, it’s important that both the potjie and the potjie master have some alcohol in them at all times. Linda Dillon has a simple three-part rule: ‘Don’t add too much liquid. Don’t stir. Keep calm and drink.’ We also like the counter-advice from Alwyn Bosman, who says, ‘Potjie is fairly easy to make but staying sober during the cooking process is the hard part. So take it easy with the dop.’ Easier said than done, Alwyn.

10. Worst case scenario – fake it

If anything goes wrong, we like this calming advice from Joshua Roode: ‘chutney covers a multitude of sins.’ It sure does, Josh.

Got any hot tips that we haven’t included? Share them below in the comments!