Fancy spending in a night in a pineapple, treehouse or even a converted jail? These amazing places to stay around the world are bizarre, beautiful, and definitely worth travelling for.

1. Dog Bark Inn – Cottonwood, Idaho

Who let the dogs out? This couple in the United States must have. The Dog Inn, a giant doghouse in the middle of rural Idaho, was built in 1997. According to the owners, they created the venue as a way to display and sell their chainsaw sculptures. For enquiries, you can visit their page on Airbnb.

What’s not to love about a four-legged hotel? Image by Deborah Robertson

2. Free Spirit Spheres – Qualicum Beach, Canada

A cross between ‘glamping’ and being ‘one with nature’. The Free Spirit Spheres are tree houses in a coastal rain forest in Vancouver. The spherical rooms can sleep more than one person and aim to promote a peaceful and serene stay. For enquiries, you can visit freespiritspheres.com

A unique form of a treehouse. Image by Mahfuz Ahmed.

3. Karostas Cietums – Liepāja, Latvia

Have you ever dreamed of spending a night in prison? At the Karosta Prison in Latvia, it is possible. The lodging allows you to sleep on a prison bunk or an iron bed and you receive a prison meal. The prison obviously no longer operates as a real prison, but it was built over 20 centuries ago as a short-term disciplinary penalty jail for navy soldiers. For enquiries, you can visit karostascietums.lv/en/

Be daring. Spend the night in a prison. Image by Andrei Dmitriev

4. Palacio de Sal – Potosí, Bolivia

Located in Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni, the world’s largest salt desert, you’ll find the Palacio de Sal Hotel. The hotel was built in 1998 using salt. A hotel made from salt? Yes indeed – the walls, floor and furniture are all made from salt. Those who have visited the hotel give credit to the sun ray’s reflection on the surface of the salt desert – it has been described as a dazzling light. Visit palaciodesal.com.bo to enquire or to make a booking.

Salty surroundings. Image by Palacio de Sal

5. Rooftop Trailer – Cape Town, South Africa

Trailer parks are not just for the movies. Image from the Grand Daddy Hotel.

Fancy staying in a trailer park? This is classiest one you’ll find. The park has Airstream trailers with individual styles and themes. The trailers have running water and electricity, beds, plug points, televisions and you can have your sundowners at the rooftop bar. For enquiries, visit granddaddy.co.za/accommodation.

6. Hotel Casanus – Antwerp, Belgium

Imagine spending a night in a colon? In Belgium, there is a polyester one-bedroom sculpture where you can spend a night. Designed by a Dutch artist, the installation resembles a large human intestine. The intestine has veins on the exterior, making it seem real. The hotel room has running water, heat and lighting.

Sleeping in a colon is not for the faint-hearted. Image from Martin Kuilman

7. Sala Silvermine Hotel – Sala, Sweden

The Sala Silvermine Hotel was extracted more than 800 years ago. It is considered the world’s deepest suite at 155 metres. It’s advised you pack warm and comfortable clothing, as the temperature can drop to as low as two degrees Celcius in the mine, all year round. Visit salasilvermine.com for enquiries.

Something a bit more comfortable than a man cave. Image by Lisa Kuropa.

8. Montana Magic Mountain – Los Rios, Chile

Hidden away in the Huilo Huilo Biological Nature Reserve in Chile, is Montana Magic Mountain. The lodge is only accessible by foot. The artificial building is a volcano-shaped building and has water spewing out on the sides. Montana Magic Mountain has thirteen bedrooms and the walls are surrounded by moss and vines. Visit huilohuilo.com for enquiries or bookings.

A magical rainforest. Image by Tony Guyton

9. The Pineapple – Punta Cana, Dominican Republic

Who doesn’t love Spongebob and his friends? Bikini Bottom is not as far as you think it is. It’s actually in the Dominican Republic. The villa is in the shape of a pineapple and the interior decor is precisely decorated like Spongebob’s home. Visit nickresortpuntacana.com for enquiries.

Who lives in a pineapple under the sea? You can! Image from Nickelodeon Hotel and Resorts

10. Martin’s Patershof Church – Mechelen, Belgium

Martin’s Patershof Church is a house of worship that is now converted into a hotel. The church was approved as a hotel in 2009. The church building is beautiful, with its 19th-century character, arched doorways and stained glass windows. Enquire at martinshotels.com

Beautiful arches and history. Image from Martins Hotel

11. V8 Hotel – Böblingen, Germany

Car lovers will be in heaven. The V8 motoring-themed hotel has classic, vintage, modern and sporty rooms, which are filled with authentic car parts. The V8 was the former Boblingen Airport opened in 1915. To enquire about the hotel, visit v8hotel.de

A childhood dream for some and a luxury hotel for others. Image by AndyBB

12. Santo Express Train Lodge – Mossel Bay, South Africa

The Santo Express Lodge is an old train on a railway in Mossel Bay. The train has been converted to accommodate tourists and it faces the Santos Beach. The beach is a 30-metre walk away. To enquire, visit santosexpress.co.za

Going nowhere slowly with the Santo Express. Image by Craig Eriksson

13. Mirror Cube Treehouse – Harads, Sweden

The mirror cube treehouse was constructed in 2010. The mirror cube house is camouflaged with the mirror walls reflecting the woods. The house accommodates two people and includes all the amenities and WiFi. They also have a number of other weird suites – there’s even one styled like a bird’s nest. Visit treehotel.se for enquiries.

A true reflection of nature. Image from Treehotel

14. Zaandam – near Amsterdam, Netherlands

The Inntel Hotel in Zaandam near Amsterdam is one building you won’t miss. What makes it so appealing is the structure that includes the Zaan region traditional houses stacked one on top of the other. You’ll find a variety of distinct styles in the architecture, from labourer’s cottages to townhouses. The hotel has a total of 160 bedrooms. Visit inntelhotelsamsterdamzaandam.nl to enquire or make a booking.

Incredible architecture. Image from Inntel Hotels

15. Hotel Costa Verde – Quepos, Costa Rica

Tucked in a jungle oasis in Costa Rica, is the Hotel Costa Verde. The hotel is a refurbished 1965 vintage Boeing 727 aircraft. The aircraft has a two bedroom en suite with a kitchenette. The Boeing was used to transport tourists from South Africa to Colombia. The views from the cockpit to the tail of the hotel are said to be amazing and they give you a 360-degree view of the surroundings. Visit costaverde.com to enquire or make bookings.

Innovation at its best. Image by Dave Mosher

If you have been to any unusual places, please share with us in the comment box below.

Looking for a great date idea? We’ve unearthed 10 fun and unusual date ideas in and around Johannesburg.

Also read:

• 10 things to do in Joburg that won’t cost a fortune
• 13 unusual places to eat in Joburg 

1. CityROCK, Randburg

R230 (for gear and entry), cityrock.co.za 

Climbing together is a great active date. Start off by booking an Intro Course (R240) and learn the ropes of how to climb. If, like me, you loved it, you’ll find yourself craving more and pushing harder to try new climbs and different level routes (each colour ‘rock’ represents a different level of difficulty). You have to trust your partner totally to keep you safe and have the freedom to climb, which is great for bonding. Plus, it’s sure to stir up some healthy competition between the two of you.

2. Pretville, Hartbeespoort

R60 per person, pretville.co.za

This small 60s-themed town is perfect for snapping selfies with your other half. Originally a movie set, there are rooms and scenes set up all over with old cars and plenty of antiques thrown in to. Wander around, grab a milkshake from the very pink diner and be sure to watch a movie in the old theatre while you’re there. It’s normally an Afrikaans movie, but there are subtitles. Open on weekends and public holidays only.

3. Free Joburg Walking Tour, Braamfontein

Free! nielsontours.co.za

Starting at Park Station, this free walking tour is a great way to get to know the CBD. Choose to roam Braamfontein (15:30 every day) or the City Centre Tour (at 10:30 and 13:00 every day). You’ll take in the large open-air museum in the corporate mining district, see historical landmarks, such as the Chancellor House where Mandela worked as a lawyer in his younger days, the Beautiful Victorian Style Post Office or the buzzing Diagonal Street where you can buy your partner a corn on the cob or grab a beer in the old bar after the tour. (Just know, that even though it is free, a tip is normally granted at the end of the tour).

Also read: 17 awesome things to do in and around Braamfontein

4. Copperlake Pub Crawl, Fourways

R180 per person, webtickets.co.za

Inside the Copperlake Brewing Company. Photograph by Chris Davies.

 
If you’d rather get to know each other over a drink or five, why not get social on this party bus pub crawl. Every Friday the party bus departs from Copperlake Brewery in Broadacres at 18:30 and it stops at three of Fourways’ favourite craft pubs until 01:00, so you can hop on and off at any time. The price includes a complimentary Copperlake Beer and Cooler onboard and stops at Beerhouse and Hogshead in Douglasdale.

Also read: The ultimate Beer Route: from Joburg to North West 

5. Gin Tasting, Maboneng

R150 per person, timeanchor.co.za

While we’re on the subject of drinks, why not learn a little something while you do it? Only open on Saturdays and Sundays, tour The Tasting Room at Time Anchor Distillery and see how the grain-based spirits are made. People attending the tasting will arrive and be seated, get an introduction to Time Anchor Distillery followed by tasting of up to three of their Craft Gins. This is followed by a craft cocktail or G&T and a further discussion around the fascinating world of craft distilleries.

6. Go for a ride in a sidecar

R1650 per couple, uralsidecartours.co.za

This is a great way of seeing the countryside. Head out to the Cradle of Humankind and soak up some sunshine from the saddle of a vintage motorbike. There’s a rug to pop over your knees and the ‘chauffeur’ wears a pair of old-school goggles to protect his eyes from the wind and dust. The Cradle day tour takes about five hours and includes a buffet breakfast. You can tweak this countryside ride to add stops such as Maropeng or the Sterkfontein Caves to your tour too.

7. Or take a tuk-tuk

From R20 per km for local trips, e-tuktuk.co.za

Going on a dinner date? How about skipping the average Uber ride and opt for something a little more exotic instead? The brightly coloured vessels of e-tuktuk is now on hand to whisk you about town and they go as far as Parkhurst, Greenside and to Park Station in the inner city. They are also more eco-friendly and fuel efficient.

 Also read: The ultimate guide to Melville

8. Hartbeespoort Cable Car, Hartbeespoort

R195 per person, hartiescableway.co.za

I must admit, I never made a big effort to go up this cable car, but when I finally found myself doing it, the views really did impress and lunch from this vantage point is pretty perfect. The cable car provides panoramic views of the Magaliesberg and the dam and, if it’s your birthday, entry is free.

9. Freakshakes, Parkhurst

From R89, craft.co.za

Want an excuse to get closer? Treat yo’selves to a decadent milkshake that’s best shared. Choose from three creations: a pink candy-filled strawberry shake topped with candy floss, a Belgian chocolate overdose topped with roasted marshmallows and the salted caramel delight filled with creme brûlée.

Also read: We test 10 of the best bakeries in JHB

10. Rooftop Salsa, Maboneng

R50 per person, find them on Facebook

Every Sunday from noon to 7pm at the rooftop bar of the Canteen Restaurant in the Maboneng Precinct you can salsa with pros. There’s a great mix of regulars – young and old folks, locals and foreigners. The atmosphere is great and the Afro-Cuban tunes will have you both swinging. Expect impromptu dance lessons, line dances and the perfect way to kiss the weekend goodbye.

BONUS: Fondue Nights at Flames

R395 per person,fourseasonsevents.co.za

The Westcliff has three kinds of fondue to dip into this winter. The classic cheese is delectable (the sauce is thick with good wine and herby flavours) and best for vegetarians, then there are two more unusual options available; the seafood-based Chinese fondue with prawns and Norwegian salmon and the Canivore fondue with sides that are cooked in a clear kind of soup. It’s decadent dining experience and one best ended with thick Belgian hot chocolate with toasted marshmellows afterwards (R90). Be sure to soak up the sunset before dining with a romantic walk up the Westcliff Steps.

The Westcliff Winter fondues will run until 31 July, Thursday to Sunday from 4-7pm. Reservations are essential.

Beyond being mere storehouses for books, these libraries are aesthetically pleasant on the eye even to book non-enthusiasts and have amazing stories behind them. From epic tales of how they were established to how they’ve evolved over time, these libraries are a readers’ paradise and worth visiting if you ever find yourself in these cities.

Here’s a selection of some of the most amazing libraries around the world.

Also read: A book lovers guide to Cape Town

1. George Peabody Library in Baltimore

This library hosts over 30,000 book titles from the 19th century and is celebrated for its five tier ornamental cast-iron balconies. Its stunning design is considered to be one of the most beautiful interiors in the world (the beautiful interior is also used as a venue for wedding celebrations). It was opened in 1857 and was designed by Edmund G. Lind. The library also serves as an important research hub for the John Hopkins University.

Photo by Robert Burakiewicz.

2. The Admont Library in Austria

This is the largest monastery library in the world, with over 1400 manuscripts from the 8th century and books printed before 1500 and currently hosts over 200,000 books. The watercolour paintings on the ceiling encapsulating the Enlightenment era were painted by Bartolomeo Altomonte who lived between 1694 and 1783.

Photo from Flickr.

3. Boston Public Library

Founded in 1848, the Boston Public Library was the first free municipal library in the United States. It was initially located on Mason Street and within a year of operating, the location was said to be small. Boston Public Library later relocated to its current location on Copley square which has been home to the library since 1895 and was designed by Charles Follen McKim. The library hosts over 23 million materials ranging from books, DVDs, CDs, maps, manuscripts and others – it also houses federal and state documents.

Photo by Little Koshka.

4. Stuttgart City Library in Germany

This stunning library is located at Mailänder Platz and moved to its new location in 2011 before which was it was based in Wilhelmspalais from 1840. The 9-storey building features an all-white interior, designed such that the only colours that pop are the books and the people inside the building. Its building rises up like one big cube in the area, signifying it as an intellectual and cultural centre of the area.

Photo by Boris Thaser.

5. José Vasconcelos Library in Mexico City

This library is over 40,000 square feet and holds more than 470,000 books. The building is surrounded by luscious greenery and flowers and its interior is made up of webs of pathways and balconies resembling a plants’ root system. The building was designed by Alberto Kalach. By creating this building, Alberto had wanted to make a statement about creating green spaces in polluted and heavily industrialised areas.

Photo by LWYang.

6. Beinecke Rare Book Library in New Haven

Built in 1962, the Beinecke Rare Book Library is a literary archive of the Yale University Library and is used by students and academics of the university. The collection of books in this six storey building includes the university’s archive of manuscripts, rare books, historical tracts as well as modern-day material. The library prides itself in collecting rare books and manuscripts, which has earned it a reputation as one of the largest buildings in the world entirely dedicated to rare books and manuscripts. It hosts over 1 million volumes of books and well over a million of manuscripts alone.

Photo by Lauren Manning.

7. Seattle Central Library in Washington

The Seattle Central Library hosts about 1.5 million books and other items, it also features over 400 computers which are open to the public. This 11-storey building was designed by Peter J. Weber who had won an architectural competition with entries from over 30 firms. This stunning 55,000 square foot structure features massive pillars and is quite spacious inside.

Photo by Ming-yen Hsu.

8. Trinity College Dublin Library in Dublin

Trinity College Dublin Library serves the Trinity College established in 1592 and the University of Dublin. It’s most famous manuscript, the Book of Kells was presented to the library in 1661. It features an almost 200-foot ‘Long Room’ which was built between 1712 and 1732 and houses 200,000 of the oldest books in the library. The walkway in the Long Room features marble busts of famous philosophers and writers, created by Peter Schemakers. This library currently features over 6 million printed titles covering 400 years of academic and intellectual development.

Photo by Seagen.

9. Sainte-Geneviève Library in Paris

The Abbey of Saint Genevieve was a monastery in Paris that was suppressed during the French revolution, the Sainte-Geneviève Library inherited the collection of manuscripts from the monastery. It was designed by Henri Labrouste and built between 1838 and 1850. The building is greatly celebrated for its iron frame construction. The collection of books in the library covers all aspects of knowledge from science to literature and sits between 1.5 and 2 million. Its initially estimated space was questioned when the library first opened, the library was later renovated to make it more spacious to widen access to the public.

Photo by Marie-Lan Nguyen.

10. New York Public Library

Founded in 1895, the New York Public Library is one of the largest libraries in the world, hosting more than 55 million items. This library also presents thousands of exhibitions and public programs with classes in literacy, research, science and others. New York Public Library gets over 18 million visitors annually and judging by how stunning it is in the image below, it is not shocking why people are flocking to this readers paradise in numbers.

Photo by Ilirjan Rrumbullaku.

11. Royal Portuguese Reading Room in Rio de Janeiro

The Royal Portuguese Reading Room was established in 1887 and hosts a massive collection of Portuguese texts considered to be the largest and most valuable collection outside Portugal. The wall in the main reading room is completely covered in books from the floor almost to the ceiling and it’s decorated facade was carved in limestone all the way in Lisbon and brought by ship to Rio. Royal Portuguese Reading Room also hosts over 350000 volumes and titles.

12. Bibliotheca Alexandrina in Egypt

Bibliotheca Alexandrina is a stunning library built with intentions of paying tribute to the legacy of the Library of Alexandria destroyed over a set of fires – one of which included a fire set by an army of Julius Ceaser in 48 BC. The Library of Alexandria was one of the most important libraries in the ancient world seeing thinkers like Plato and other famous writers and philosopher studied. As part of his reign, Alexandra had a group of thinkers and scholars who were studying and reporting to him about unchartered and undiscovered areas. The knowledge obtained from his campaigns and the era resulted in a significant contribution to geography and subsequently, other scientific fields dedicated to studying the earth. The current library was reopened in 2002 after a decision by the University of Alexandria made in 1974 with various countries like Spain donating collections to it.

Photo by John Kannenberg.

13. Saint Catherine’s Monastery Library in Egypt

The building of this library is said to have been ordered by Empress Consort who was the mother of Constantine the Greats. It’s located on Mount Sinai, the mountain where Moses allegedly saw the burning bush and also received the Ten Commandments from God. The library is said to house manuscripts of Lives of Women Saints (from 779 AD). This library is considered to possess the oldest manuscripts dating back much further than most libraries.

14. Timbuktu library in Mali

The Timbuktu Library is considered to be one of the oldest libraries with manuscripts old manuscripts across a variety of fields such as art, medicine, philosophy, and science, some of which have still not been decoded as they were written in languages that remain unknown to our current civilisations. The library has been attacked several times by Islamic rebels. It was in 1937 that the Malian government decided on building the Ahmed Baba Centre, named a seventeenth-century scholar, the centre is a modern-day state of the art centre funded by South Africa and UNESCO to protect the texts. It’s unfortunate that this ancient and historic library is under-threat from Al-Qaeda-allied fighters as the manuscripts completely shatter the western stereotype that Africa does not possess written archives of history.

The Ahmed Baba Centre. Photo by Afrotourism.

Need a winter warmer? If you enjoy a good curry, here are 18 restaurants in Cape Town worth visiting. Most are Indian while some are Malay, but all have either been personally tried and tested or come highly recommended. From opulent six-course tasting menus to the more cheap-and-cheerful options, you’re bound to find something to suit your tastes.

Personally tried and tested curry restaurants in Cape Town

1. Bombay Brasserie @ The Taj, City Bowl

Opening times: Monday to Sunday, 18:00 – 23:00
What you can expect to pay: R100 – R200 for a main course, Chef’s Menu (5 courses) R625 per person / R890 with wine pairing
Contact: Tel 0218192000, tajcapetown.co.za/dining/bombay-brasserie/

Beautiful presentation is part of the experience at Bombay Brasserie at The Taj.

 
An evening at the Bombay Brasserie is a truly opulent one: from the valet parking to the plush, peacock-embroidered chairs (imported from India) and huge shimmering chandeliers above your head. After you’ve taken all that in, you can munch on their complimentary Indian snack platter, while going through their menu. This will take some time as how does one decide between the fenugreek flavoured “Tariwala” chicken curry and a Prawn “Kadipatta” masala?

If you’ve got a big appetite, I can recommend the set menu where you can enjoy an appetiser, a soup, two starters, two mains with four sides and three desserts. Be warned though, you need a good appetite for this choice! If you feel like a wine pairing with your dinner, then you are in extremely good hands with their charming sommelier, Pearl Oliver, who not only knows her stuff, but is good fun too. If you are having trouble choosing from the menu, I can recommend the Karoo lamb cubes simmered in a saffron curry, the sautéed spinach with golden fried garlic and the roasted yellow corn soup, served with turmeric popcorn (I am never making croutons again!)

The sorbet palate-cleanser at Bombay Brasserie is quite a show!

2. Cafe Soul, Kalkbay

Opening times: Monday to Friday, 10:00 – 21:30, Saturdays 12:00 – 21:30
What you can expect to pay: R80 – R150 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0785064466, or visit their Facebook page

How could you not want to try out a restaurant with an endearing name like that? If the name or the promise of a plush window seat or a spot by the fireplace doesn’t make get you through the door, their Balti curries definitely should! Balti curries hail from the nomadic people in Pakistan and at Café Soul they make the real thing using plenty of marinated meats, fresh vegetables and spices (you’ll find no tomato bases in their dishes as you do in Indian dishes). There are Balti masalas, Balti kormas, Balti jalfrezis and Balti breyanis, along with Balti ginger dishes (these have some bite!) and Balti vegetable dishes.

The Moong Dhal Curry was a firm favourite at our table as was the Balti Jafrezi Chicken and the Balti Masala Lamb. You are also encouraged to eat with your hands as this is the traditional way of eating curry and they bring you warm and delightful-smelling facecloths to use during and after your meal. However, cutlery is provided if you are uncomfortable with this style of eating. I say embrace it as it really does enhance the experience! Tip: Keep an eye on their Facebook page for special offers, such as a three course meal for a mere R135.

Order a selection of Balti curries at Cafe Soul to share.

3. Masala Dosa, City Bowl

Opening times: Daily 12:00 – 22:30
What you can expect to pay: R70 – R90 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0214246772, or visit their Facebook page

My first experience at Masala Dosa was many years ago when I attended an Indian cooking course. We learnt about spices and how to mix them, made a few dishes and ruined a few dishes, rolled out heaps of naan bread and drank Indian beer. It was so much fun I vowed to go back, as we always do. I am glad I did eventually return as Riyaz Mir (owner) is still as charming as ever, in his quiet way and he still brews a mean pot of Masala chai. He also serves up fine street food from South India, which I am a fan of, along with dosa (a rice and lentil crepe), thali (small dishes, or tapas), curry and rice dishes, roti wraps and traditional Indian desserts. There’s plenty of other dishes to choose from on the menu and it is all very reasonably priced. Vegans will also be pleased to know that they are most welcome, because, as Riyaz pointed out, “Indians have been vegan or vegetarian for centuries.” Do take note of the yellow design on your dish – it’s not part of the dish, but rather a pattern made using turmeric! It’s beautiful as well as edible – turmeric is very good for you, as is a good pot of Masala Chai!

Aloo Bombs are part of the Indian street food selection at Masala Dosa.

4. Thali, Gardens

Opening times: Lunch on Tuesday to Saturday, 12:30 – 14:30, dinner on Monday to Saturday 17:00 – 21:00 (bar opens at 16:00)
What you can expect to pay: Tapas for One (lunch) R180, Tapas for Two (dinner) R650
Contact: Tel 0212862110, thalitapas.co.za

Owned by Liam Tomlin (of Chefs Warehouse fame), this is another fine dining affair, complete with interesting Indian décor (think cow bells and beautiful lanterns hanging from the ceilings and trees) and impeccable service. The interior is warm and snug with darker hues, while the courtyard is a more colourful affair with bright tile-topped tables, red chairs, chains of lights and vintage Indian signage. Even the boards on which the menus are attached are engraved with an Indian-style design. That same attention to detail goes into their dishes and whether you go there for lunch or dinner, you are in for a treat!

Thali has set menus for both lunch and dinner, with lunch being a set menu per person and dinner being tapas for two. I was there for the lunch affair, where you can choose one of six main dishes which is served with five side dishes, including dhal, basmati rice, a garlic butter naan bread, a tomato salsa and a cucumber and pomegranate raita. Main dishes include butter chicken, butter paneer, yoghurt lamb curry and a panch phoran fish curry (the fish and the lamb are highly recommended!) The dessert menu (if you have any room left) has various flavours of kulfi (Indian ice-cream), spiced carrot cake with vanilla bean ice-cream, Indian bon bons and a rather delicious chai milk tart with a cumin crumb and served with roast banana ice-cream. If you order dessert, you get a rather charming little surprise too (a reward for eating so much!) They also have some interesting takes on traditional Indian drinks, including Dirty Lassis that sees the addition of rum to this Indian milkshake classic. Tip: If you like oysters, do not pass up the opportunity to tuck into their take on this seafood delicacy with a Cape Malay dressing.

Lunch at Thali consists of a main dish with five sides. This was for two people!

5. The Charles Café, De Waterkant

Opening times: Mondays to Fridays 07:00-22:00, Saturdays and Sundays 08:00-15:00
What you can expect to pay: R70-R100 for a main course, Malay Tasting Menu (5 mains, 2 desserts) R225 per person
Contact: Tel 087743 2359, www.thecharles.cafe

Simply put, The Charles Café feels like home. Or visiting a friend’s home where you are welcomed through the front door and into the dining room where there’s a fireplace with a roaring fire, plushly refurbished antique chairs, candles and delightful wallpaper. The indoor dining area at this establishment in the bustling Waterkant Street is tiny, with seating for only about 15 people at a push, but that makes it perfect for cosying up in winter. We got a spot right by the fireside when we popped in for their Malay Monday (every Monday from 12:00 – 22:00). The only problem was that the table was almost too small for all the food they kept on bringing! We opted for the tasting menu (R225 per person for 5 mains and two desserts) and there was a lot of food! Our favourites from the tasting menu were the bobotie (they only use Farmer Angus pasture-reared beef), the butter chicken and the Cape Malay lamb curry topped with toasted coconut and sliced banana. There’s also chicken sosaties and a courgette, butternut and chickpea korma. There are three desserts to choose from, including a Cape Malay koeksister, an orange & poppyseed malva pudding and a very traditional boeber, served in a teacup (our favourite). If the weather’s not too bad or there are too many people vying for the fireplace, you can also sit upstairs on the balcony and enjoy a wonderful view over the city: they do have heaters and blankets.

Cosy up on a comfortable antique chair by the fireside at The Charles Cafe for their Malay Mondays.

6. Vintage India, Gardens

Opening times: Daily from 12:00 – 15:00 and 18:00 – 22:00
What you can expect to pay: R60 – R100 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0214625106 or visit their Facebook page

I have friends who are curry snobs and they have been going to Vintage India every Sunday evening for many years. Looking at the restaurant from the outside, if you didn’t know any better, you’d probably give it a miss. But once you step through the doors, it’s a whole different world! A world filled with beautiful paintings, richly coloured fabrics and magnificent wall panels, all of which have been imported from Mumbai. I was very glad to have my friends with me to be honest, as all the dishes were quite foreign to me – but don’t panic, as the waitrons are very helpful with explaining the dishes. You’ll find five pages of different curry styles, with vegetarian, chicken, fish, lamb, prawn and paneer (Indian-style cottage cheese) options. The best way to enjoy a meal here is with a group of friends where you can each order a different item off the menu and share. I do suggest you try their lovable sandwich (a deep-fried spicy Indian delicacy with paneer) and their malai kulfi ice-cream (it comes in little blocks, much like fudge, and is wonderfully sweet and creamy). You can buy alcoholic beverages here, including Indian beer, but if you wish to take your own bottle of wine you are welcome to do so (R40 corkage fee). They also serve colourful tiny sweets and fennel seeds as your after-dinner-mint. The next time you pass Vintage India, do stop in. You won’t regret it and you may also find yourself there on a weekly basis!

The Lovable Sandwich is a must at Vintage India!

7. Mink and Trout, City Bowl

Opening times: Monday to Saturday 12:00-15:30 and 18:30-22:30
What you can expect to pay: R99 for a three-course curry dinner (Tuesdays, until end of August)
Contact: Tel 0214262534, or visit their Facebook page 

Mink and Trout used to be known as the very popular Birds Cafe in Bree Street. They are open for lunch and dinner, with a varied menu, but it’s their Tuesday Curry Night that I was there for! It’s not often you find a three-course meal at a renowned restaurant for R99, so I had to find out what you got for for such a bargain. The starters include samoosas, chilli bites and an onion bhaji, you then choose one of four main courses, which is followed by pumpkin fritters for dessert. We had the Thai mussel and pork curry (an interesting combination with a rich and tasty sauce) and the mother-in-law masala beef with potato (it is spicy, but not as hot as the name would lead you to believe) with the other two options being a butter chicken with cauliflower and roasted cashew nuts, and a vegetarian cauliflower and chickpea curry. Plus you get suitable sides for your selected main dish, so you will leave feeling very full! It all comes beautifully presented and the revamped restaurant area is rather stylish too. However, the Tuesday Curry Night is only on until the end of August, so phone and book now – you can always move Date Night from Monday to a Tuesday!

Save space for the pumpkin fritters when you go to Mink & Trout for Curry Tuesdays!

8. Bo-Kaap Kombuis, Bo Kaap

Opening times: Tuesday to Thursday and Saturdays 12:00 – 22:30, Fridays 14:00 – 22:30, Sundays 11:30 – 16:00
What you can expect to pay: R80 – R100 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0214225466, bokaapkombuis.co.za

I originally visited this delightful family-run restaurant in 2012 (see full review here) and it has been a Bo-Kaap favourite of mine ever since. Orignally a coffee shop, the Bo-Kaap Kombuis serves a wide selection of delicious Malay dishes and all with a magnificent view over the city. Their Denningvleis is highly recommended, but their butter chicken and butterbean & lamb curry are good too. Above all, this is a warm and welcoming spot that you will find yourself returning to again and again. Note: It is a good idea to book in advance as they often host private functions and tour groups.

9. Bukhara, City Bowl

Opening times: Daily, lunch from 11:00 – 15:00 and dinner from 18:00 – 23:00
What you can expect to pay: R200 for a dinner main course, R100 selected dishes from 11:00 – 15:00 daily
Contact: Tel 0214240000, bukhara.com

Did you know that the owner of Bukhara is a real-life rocket scientist? I bet you also didn’t know that you can enjoy a selection of their delicious North Indian dishes for less than R100 from 11:00 to 15:00 every day of the week! Which is good news for those who would love to have a meal in this upmarket restaurant, but feel the average price of R200 for a meat dish is a little too much for their wallet to bear. There are two kitchens (one preparing North Indian dishes and the other Tandoori dishes using Tandoori ovens from India) so it is not surprising that a culinary experience here is going to be memorable.

It all starts when you unravel your embroidered napkin to discover that it is actually a bib. They definitely expect you to tuck in with relish! Every table gets a complimentary dish upon arrival (I had poppadums with a homemade tomato and chilli sauce) which you can enjoy while perusing their leather-bound menu with a wide array of halaal dishes, including chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian. Their lunch deals include a veg thali; lamb keema biryani; paneer dosa; a selection of curry dishes, wraps and salads, along with a brunch menu – all for under R100. I can heartily recommend the veg thali (which carnivores will even enjoy as it’s so tasty) and you are in for a real treat with their parantha! I was a bit confused at first, but it turns out that while paratha is the word most widely used in India, ‘parantha’ is specifically Punjab. And as my waitron said, “Parantha is like the croissant of naan breads.” Expect plenty of buttery, flakey crumbs down your Bukhara embroidered bib!  Note: If you are a party of 10 or more, you will be required to have one of the set menus, starting at R299 per person.

Even meat-eaters would love the Veg Thali at Bukhara.

9. The Eastern Food Bazaar, City Bowl

Opening times: Monday to Thursday 11:00 – 22:00, Fridays and Saturdays 11:00 – 22:30
What you can expect to pay: R30 – R50 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0214612458, easternfoodbazaar.co.za

Fine dining the Eastern Food Bazaar is not, but it has never failed me for an affordable and tasty bite to eat. Plus the portions are so huge that you can make two or three meals out of one helping. From Turkish kebabs to North Indian curries and tandoori dishes, the whole spectrum from Bombay to the Bo-Kaap is covered under one roof. There are ten outlets to order from and you can have anything from a portion of chilli bites to bunny chow to vindaloo. To be honest, it’s probably more of a takeaway spot, but you can sit at one of the tables and you never know who you’ll meet over your chicken korma!

Highly recommended curry restaurants in Cape Town

11. Bombay Chilli, Muizenberg

Opening times: Mondays and Tuesdays 17:00 – 22:00, Wednesday to Sunday 13:30 – 22:00
What you can expect to pay: R60 – R100 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0218366748, bombaychilli.co.za

This popular restaurant by the sea has both eat-in and a takeaway option. Their menu includes starter options, rotis, naans and breads, chicken tikka and various biryani dishes (served with raita or sambals), along with seafood, chicken, lamb and vegetarian curries. Vegan options are also available.

Bombay lamb kadai is one of the dishes you’ll find at Bombay Chilli.

12. Bihari, Newlands

Opening times: Daily from 12:30 to 15:30 and 17:30 to 22:30
What you can expect to pay: R100-R200 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0216747186, bihari.co.za

Situated in The Southern Sun in Newlands, Bihari consistently remains one of the best places to get a good North Indian curry. There’s a full bar and lounge with a central fireplace, a private cellar and an outside seating and entertainment area. Food is prepared in the restaurant’s tandoori ovens on hot open coals and then served on heated clay plates or in pots, adding to the overall experience. The menu includes vegetable, chicken and tandoori starters, samoosas, a choice of no less than seven naan breads and shami kebabs while main dishes include a variety of curries and Indian tandoori options. If you want to impress your guests at your next party, then book their catering option, complete with a portable Tandoori oven.

13. Indian Oven, Hout Bay

Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday, 12:00 – 22:00
What you can expect to pay: R50-R100 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0217914805, or visit their Facebook page

The Indian Oven is highly rated by locals in Hout Bay. Dishes here are prepared the traditional way in an authentic clay Tandoori oven, using ingredients sourced from local markets, farms and suppliers. As everything is prepared to order, meals here are an unrushed affair so nibble on their bhajis, pakora or a naan bread while you wait. Main dishes include lamb rogan josh, chicken tikka masala and palak paneer, along with biryani, bunny chow and kebabs. You can choose to sit in (outside and inside tables available), order a takeaway or opt to have your food delivered to your home if you are having friends over to dinner.

Dishes are prepared the traditional way in an authentic clay Tandoori oven at Indian Oven.

14. MoKsh, Durbanville

Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday 12:00-22:00
What you can expect to pay: R70 – R120 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0219795505, mokshrestaurant.co.za

The branch in Durbanville is so popular that I couldn’t get a booking for that evening on the two occasions that I phoned. So it’s clearly a popular Northern Suburbs option for a good curry! MoKsh means freedom or liberation. It also means to attain the highest level of satisfaction which is something MoKsh take great pride in doing when it comes to their North Indian cuisine. The menu includes a wide choice of chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian curries along with Tandoori options straight from their Tandoori oven. MoKsh also has branches in Wegelegen, Paarl, Worcester and Somerset West. Probably a good idea to book long in advance!

15. Biesmiellah Restaurant, Bo-Kaap

Opening times: Monday to Saturday 11:00 – 22:00
What you can expect to pay: R100 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0214230850, biesmiellah.co.za

I haven’t personally visited this iconic Bo-Kaap establishment, but it is on my list of places to eat. Apart from Cape Malay dishes and various curries, they also serve breakfast items, tramezzinis, burgers, salomies, pastas and grills.  Being halaal, you won’t find any alcohol in here, but try having a lassi or a falooda (a traditional Indian drink comprising of milk, rose water, almonds, and ice cream) instead.

16. Sundoo Indian Tapas & Bar, Sea Point

Opening times: Daily 12:00 – 23:00
What you can expect to pay: Lunch menu from R50 for a main course, dinner from R60 – R120 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0214330542, seelan.co.za/sundoo/

As the name suggests, Sundoo serves up Indian tapas with a lunch menu and a dinner menu. The lunch menu sees bunny chow, vegetable tali, a masala chicken breast sandwich, roti wraps, lamb kebabs and a Bombay lamb burger, all for under R100. The dinner menu offers samoosas, bunny chow and roti trios, clay oven dishes, breyanis and a selection of curries. They also serve cocktails, wine, ciders and craft beers in a chic environment.

Enjoy Indian tapas in a chic atmosphere at Sundoo in Sea Point.

17. Taj Mahal, Hout Bay

Opening times: Daily from 12:00 – 22:00
What you can expect to pay: R60 – R150 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0217904711,  tajmahalrestaurant.co.za

The Taj Mahal offers a halaal menu and has been serving a wide range of dishes since 2010. They also offer a buffet option at R250 per person where you can eat as much fish masala, chicken biryani, lamb curry and more as you like. Their a la carte menu includes soups, salads, samoosas and bunny chow, along with seafood, lamb, chicken and vegetarian curries. There is also a takeaway menu available if you prefer to eat at home, but don’t feel like cooking.

18. Mumbai Café, Rylands

Opening times: Daily from 10:30-22:30
What you can expect to pay: R40 – R100 for a main course
Contact: Tel 0216379486, www.mumbaicafe.co.za

When I attended an Indian cooking weekend away late last year, I asked the couple who ran the course which were their favourite restaurants serving the most authentic Indian food. The first on their list was Mumbai Café, so it’s top on my list of places to go next! You’ll find Chaat (Indian streetfood), masalas, tandoori dishes, biryanis, sweet treats, snacks and more at very reasonable prices.

Do you have a favourite curry spot? Let us know in the comments below!

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, providing us with energy and nutrients throughout the day. It also goes without saying that we all have different preferences when it comes to what to eat in the morning. I am content with an oversized bowl of cereal followed by a creamy cup of coffee while others prefer warm meals.

Here’s a look at how various parts of world indulge in breakfast. Tell us how you savour your breakfast in the comments below.

1. Bolivia

The Api Morado is a spiced brew concoction, made of ground purple corn mixed with water, cinnamon, pineapple or oranges, cloves and sugar. The drink is best served hot. The Api drink can also be made of white corn and is called the Api Blanco. The Api Blanco is made from cinnamon, white corn, milk and sugar.

A drink for breakfast can also be satisfying. Image by Quinn Dombrowski

2. Myanmar

Myanmar is a small country with many ethnic groups. People there prefer eating out instead of making their own breakfast. The national dish enjoyed for breakfast is the Mohinga. The dish consists of rice noodles and fish soup, garnished with crispy fried fritters such as chickpeas and boiled eggs. Lemongrass, garlic, ginger and onions are added to Mohinga to enhance the flavours.

Fish broth and noodles to kick start the morning. Who would have thought? Image by Giselle Leung

3. India

Rava Umpa, also known as Roasted Rava. This meal is particularly a favourite in India. The Rava Umpa is made from a form of semolina, served with fresh vegetables, spices, lentils, aromatic nuts, curry leaves and grated coconut on the top.

An oversized bowl of hearty vegetables for all your vitamins and minerals. Image by Sonik

4. Nigeria

Akara is a Nigerian breakfast recipe, made with black or brown beans. The beans are cooked in spices. It’s important to remove all the beans coat before preparing the meal to get the perfect bean cake.

Fried bean cake anyone? Image by Juju Films

5. Malaysia

In Malaysia, they have Nasi Lemak for breakfast. The meal consists of coconut rice, lamb curry, anchovies, hot sauce, peanuts and boiled eggs. The rice is cooked in coconut milk and a pandan leaf.

What some have for dinner, others have for breakfast. Image by Charles Haynes

6. Kenya

Mandazi is popular in Kenya. Mandazi is also known as a Swahili Coconut Donut. The breakfast treat consists of fried dough with coconut milk, coconut flakes and cardamom. Mandazi is accompanied by a cup of hot tea.

Rich, sweet treats for breakfast. Image by Paresh Jai

7. Russia

A soul-food dish in Russia is the Kasha. Kasha is a porridge, usually sweet and served with milk and hot butter. The meal is made from buckwheat and can be enjoyed with black tea or coffee.

Buckwheat porridge with butter. Image by Leticia Avierkiieva

8. Ghana

Breakfast in Ghana tends to be a bit heavier. One of the breakfasts served in Ghana is Kenkey. Kenkey is made from ground cornmeal that is soaked in water and fermented for two days before it is rolled in a ball. Once it is in ball form, it’s boiled and wrapped in plantain leaves, served with fish or stew.

Kenkey is also eaten in eastern Côte d’Ivoire, Togo, western Benin and Jamaica. Image by Korangteng Ofosu-Amaah

9. Ukraine

Varenyky is also known as pierogies is dough mixed with flour and salt. The varenyky is boiled, baked or fried dumplings, with stuffing. There are savoury stuffings of ground meat, cheese, sausage and sauerkraut. There are also sweet versions, served with fruits and sour cream and honey.

Varenyky are a form of dumplings with stuffing. Image by Stephanie Vacher

10. Argentina

Although Argentina is famous for their meat, they don’t consume meat for breakfast. The Argentinians don’t enjoy large breakfasts but prefer a quick snack. Breakfast consists of a few facturas (a variety of croissant like pastries) served with custard, jam, ham and cheese.

Mate is an infusion drink made with yerba leaves. Image by Jean-Paul P.G

11. Sweden

Filmjolk is thick sour milk (between yoghurt and milk) served with muesli or fresh fruit and honey. Filmjolk has been around in Sweden since Viking times and you can also drink a glass as a snack.

Cultured yoghurt in Sweden. Image by Alex Bayley

12. Australia/New Zealand

Let’s time travel back into history to when the Anzac cookies were first made. The sweet cookies are made from rolled oats. ANZAC cookies are popular among people from Australia and New Zealand as they originally were made and sent to the ANZAC (Australia and New Zealand Army Corps) who were serving in Gallipoli. Another popular bite down under is Vegemite. There’s also no denying that Vegemite is linked to Australia. The dark and bitter spread has been popular for many years. Vegemite with cheese on toast is still a favourite for many.

Cookies for breakfast. Image by Jaro Larnos

13. Mexico

Huevos motuleños originated in the town of Motu. Like most Mexican meals, the breakfast dish includes a crispy corn tortilla. The tortilla is accompanied by fried beans, tomato sauce or a salsa sauce, fried eggs, crumbled cheese and you can also add pieces of smoked ham, lemon juice or peas for more flavour.

A colourful breakfast, fit for a king. Image by Sergio Davila

14. Cuba

Some Cubans love their Cuban style bread and butter for breakfast. The bread is grilled and served with a blend of warm milk and espresso coffee. It is popular to dip some of the bread in the coffee while eating.

Simplicity for breakfast is always best. Image by Matthew Gonzalez

15. Ethiopia

Breakfast in Ethiopia ranges from a simple cup of tea to anything really heavy such as the Dulet. Take some finely chopped lamb tripe, beef and livers from a cow or lamb- fry them with chopped onions, peppers and spices and you have breakfast! The Dulet is one of many dishes enjoyed for breakfast in Ethiopia.

Dulet is cooked marinated lamb liver, tripe, and topside with onions and spice. Image by Charles Haynes

16. Morocco

Khobz is one of the many loaves of bread eaten in Morocco. Goats cheese, olives and fried eggs are also breakfast staples. The traditional pancakes called Rghaif are enjoyed with honey, strawberry or apricot jam. Moroccan mint tea is a classic for breakfast, made from gunpowder green tea, fresh mint and sugar.

Bread is consumed with every meal in Morocco.

17. Pakistan

The Pakistani’s consider lentils, wheat and milk main foods that form the basis for Pakistan cuisine. Haleem is a slow cooked mixture of lentils and meat. It can also be garnished with green chillies, coriander leaves and fried onions.
A cuisine breakfast. Image by Charles Haynes
The world is a big place and there are plenty of traditional breakfasts that are not included. If you have any you would like to share, please comment below.

The Northern Cape is South Africa’s biggest province and stretches over a variety of astonishing landscapes, from the cool, character-filled West Coast, across the succulent Nama-Karoo towards the Orange River oasis and then upwards into the drier red dunes of the Kalahari Desert.

There are no fewer than six National Parks to visit in the province, two of the country’s biggest rivers and splendid natural wonders like the Riemvasmaak Hot Springs, the 56-metre high Augrabies Falls, spectacular night skies and the ever-popular winter rainfall season, when the radiant blooms spill across the countryside. Here are our top photo spots in the Northern Cape that you simply cannot miss.

1. Find peace at Papkuilsfontein Guest Farm in Vanrhynsdorp

Papkuilsfontein in the Northern Cape is a quintessential Karoo Farm Stay. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

There’s an authentic farm feel to this patch of paradise close to Niewoudtville. Stay in the old, beautifully restored stone cottages in your own private fynbos setting to best appreciate the big skies and wide spaces of the Northern Cape. Parts of Papkuilsfontein have been managed as flower reserves for many years and a flower route has been developed on one side of the farm, taking you through renosterveld and some fynbos, where a profusion of annuals and endemic bulbous plants grow during the winter months. This is when the farm is at its most popular, but it is absolutely worth a visit in the low season too.

Do it: Staying at one of the restored cottages at Papkuilsfontein costs from R500 per person self-catering and the delectable two-course dinner is R230 (you absolutely need to try their dine-in option).

Also read: Tips for photographing flowers

2. Feel the force of water at Augrabies Falls National Park

The Augrabies Falls at sunset. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

There’s a distinct calm and isolation about the desert areas in South Africa, but Augrabies is the one place where water cuts right through it all and makes an almighty noise about it. A rambling trail at the main rest camp links a series of viewpoints to see the Orange River, but the best way to experience this spot is to spend sunset at the quiver trees just beyond the reception then make your way to one of the decks and appreciate the falls at night – the best time is around 19:30 just before the lights go on (every evening between 20:00 and 22:00) so you can best see the stars pricking the darkness above.

Do it: Stay in the main rest camp to see the falls lit up. From R910 for a chalet for two.

3. Anywhere on the Orange River

Looking out over the Orange River in Kakamas. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

An oasis in the Northern Cape, this mighty river cuts through a rugged landscape bringing it to life. Stop anywhere along the river and find beauty. However, the best way to experience the river is to jump right in and paddle it! My favourite part about rafting this river is sleeping out in the open at night. There are not many places where you can skip the tent these days. Wake up everyday at sunrise, catch the pink hues and feel the peace of the water.

Do it: From R4250 per person for a four-day adventure (minimum six people) with Umkulu Adventures.

Also read: Why the Orange River is one of the best family trips in the world

4. Camp in the Namaqua National Park

Perfection in Namaqualand. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

During early August and September, seemingly overnight, the dusty valleys of Namaqualand are transformed into a wonderland, carpeted with wildflowers that draw visitors from around the country and from abroad. Chris Davies took a roadtrip up the West Coast avoiding tar as much as possible, and he says it best: “Namaqua National Park is the last stretch of wild coastline before the mine-ravaged desolation further north. There are fewer bays and flatter hills here than to the south, with steenbok replacing the sheep between the bushes. The park’s simple ablutions, small clutches of stands and untouched beaches are accessible only by a single, very sandy 4×4 track, making it hard to get to but worth every effort. It led us through a sea of flowers, past tortoises and behind road-hogging ostriches and their skittish, twittering chicks.”

Do it: Groen River Camp Site is just south of the Groen River estuary. The campsites are close to a rocky shore, with sandy beaches just south of the lighthouse, and north at Groen River Mouth. Stands are R145 per night (six per stand) at Groen Rivier camp. Park fees R37 per person.
Also read: A road trip up the West Coast off the N7

5. Soak up the Sutherland night sky

The Northern Cape sky. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Local lore has it that they even changed the colour of the streetlights from bright white to yellow in Sutherland to better enhance the stargazing. Peering through a telescope to see the rings of Saturn or spot the red flecks of the Jewel Box is a great experience, but somehow looking at space through a telescope, even a good telescope, can be a bit of let down – images taken from satellites and space telescopes completely outcompete reality in terms of colour and clarity. However that’s not really necessary, as in Sutherland you can see about 2500 stars with the naked eye. There’s something about that infinite canopy of light that offers some serious perspective and can only be experienced here in the Cape Karoo. It’s humbling, and on a farm just outside Sutherland all you need to do to feel this is turn off the lights and look up.

Do it: Saffraan Cottage is from R500 per person and an observatory tour of the South African Large Telescope is R80.

6. See the longest gravel road in SA – Calivinia to Ceres

Wide open spaces along this stretch of gravel give you the space and time to think.

The longest gravel road in the country is a stretch of over 200 kilometres between Calvinia and Ceres. You can drive it (make sure to pack spare tyres) or you can walk it. Those who had also walked the famous Camino de Santiago say the Tankwa version is much tougher. In Spain, you can stop walking when you’re tired and rest in the nearest hostel, but here you have to walk the 25 kilometres to camp. The terrain is much more rugged, it’s hotter, and at the end of it all you have just a five-litre bucket of water with which to wash yourself.

Do it: Read how to walk the Tankwa Camino here – 250km in 10 days down the longest gravel road in the country. It costs R5500 a person to join the Tankwa Camino – this covers infrastructure costs, water (hot and cold), dinner, fresh fruit along the walk and afternoon treats served with tea and coffee plus the return transfer from Ceres to Calvinia. For more info, visit Tankwa Camino website.

Also read: The colours of Calvinia

7. Visit SA’s newest National Park – Mokala National Park

Beautiful dawns greets us at the Mokala camping site. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Mokala National Park is about 70 kilometres south-southwest of Kimberley and is best known for harbouring endangered species like sable, roan and tsessebe, aardvark and the tiny aardwolf. Go for a game drive. Mosu Lodge offers four game drives each day: in the early morning, during the day, at sunset and at night, and there’s an option to view old rock engravings that are about 2000 years old. Enjoy a catch-and-release fly-fishing session if you’re staying at Lilydale Rest Camp.

Do it: Options range from camping to luxury bungalows. Mosu Lodge, the main rest camp, has a pool and 15 units with air-con, from R700 for two. Lilydale Rest Camp has 12 self-catering units that include bungalows and chalets, from R790 for two. Haak en Steek Cottage is more luxe and offers family-friendly units, from R1080 for four. Motswedi Camp Site is from R430 for a site for two people. Conservation fees are R37 per day for adults and R19 for under-11s. Don’t forget your Wild Card! Bookings and more information available on the Mokala National Park website.

Also read: 5 things everyone should do at Mokala National Park 

8. Get wild in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

A majestic Oryx stands sentry at golden hour. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

This is a place where only the toughest survive. The immense landscape of the park stretches across South Africa and Botswana covering over 3,5 million hectares – almost twice the size of the Kruger National Park. There are 19 predator species including leopard, cheetah and both species of hyena. Plus, two-thirds of the raptor species in southern Africa can be seen here in the Kalahari. Other desert specials include the highly vocal barking gecko, adorable meerkats and the tiny tree mouse which lives in the Camel-thorn trees.

From March to May is prime game spotting time. It’s the end of the wet season and the riverbeds attract many animals. May to August has the most comfortable weather with warm days and chilly evenings. Want to see a kill? Go in January and February when there’s plenty of young after good rains.

Do it: Nossob Rest Camp has a waterhole that’s lit up at night and brand new accommodation opening up soon. From R995 for two in a chalet.

Also read: First-timer’s guide to the Kgalagadi

Read the full story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

Figuring out Doha, for most travellers, boils down to figuring out how to get from Gate A to E via the doughnut stand. Qatar is a small country in the middle of not very much, and for most South Africans it’s simply the linchpin in the flight-booking system that catapults them to Thailand, or Paris, or other places less beset by desert and heat. I was there to figure out if we were all missing a trick. Photos and words by Kati Auld.

Looking across the bay from the Museum of Islamic Arts.

 
Lonely Planet once called Qatar the most boring country in the world. After three days here, I know that it’s wrong – but I haven’t figured out which description to use instead. I’ve seen a lot of its capital city, Doha. I’ve been impressed by the towering hubris of the architecture, paid R260 for a glass of wine, and eaten my body weight in hummus, studded with pomegranate. But I haven’t understood this city.

Left, the Fanar Qatar Islamic Cultural centre, one of the city’s most recognisable landmarks. Right, traditional coffee is served lightly roasted, and heavy on the tongue with cardamom and cloves.

 
Doha is half jewellery box, half construction site. It’s impossible to overstate how much building is happening – train tracks being laid, highways twisting around piles of sand and brick and holes in the ground, cranes punctuating the skyline. This is part of the development towards the Fifa World Cup, which is being hosted here in 2022.

It feels like a time lapse of a city coming together, and all of the puzzle pieces are unfamiliar. The traffic department looks like a luxury hotel. The luxury hotels look like spaceships.

The magnificent oculus at the top of the Museum of Islamic Art’s ceiling is faceted to capture and reflect light.

 
In a confusing city, a good place to find your bearings is in the past. The Museum of Islamic Art is considered one of the top attractions in Doha, alongside a super-mall riddled with canals (complete with gondolas to take you from Vuitton to Gucci). Perhaps Islamic art only draws to mind antiquated Korans and dusty carpets – but there’s a ruby scabbard from India, tiles from Syria, an incense box, a perfume bottle that still looks covered in ancient dust. I want to hold it, to smell if there’s any hint of the scent it once contained. There’s a war mask from the 15th century. It’s steel, with gold inlay, and so carefully embellished it looks like it was made with the intention of being here, in an art museum, rather than on the face of a man on horseback.

A war mask, from eastern Turkey or Iran.

 
The scope of the museum, in a geographical sense as well as a historical one, is dizzying. From chain-mail equine armour to elaborate candlesticks, the overwhelming impression is of a million different worlds spinning gently beside each other. Doha is like this in more ways than one. Qataris make up only 18 percent of the population – which means it’s a wonderland for difference. I met people from Jordan, from Iran, from Bangladesh, from Kenya, from Britain, from Macedonia.

Abandoned during the day, these portable snack counters bustle with customers in the evenings.

 
You can eat margogah (a gelatinous mix of chicken and bread, spiced with cardamom and small hot peppers) at a kilim-covered table at the souk, and follow that with succulent beef brisket at the W Doha Hotel, surrounded by starchy businessmen. Later that afternoon I discussed the meaning of love with a very serious Nepalese taxi driver. We passed Swiss bakeries and Moroccan tailors, dust heavy in the air.

Doha gave me something I didn’t even know I was lacking – an introduction to the complexities of the Middle East. It doesn’t have the mighty sprawl of Dubai, and the laws aren’t as oppressive as the neighbouring Saudi Arabia. It’s compact, shiny, fascinating, and in the three days that I spent here I felt like I had discovered an unfamiliar new world.

Colourful falcon-shaped kites soar above Doha’s modern skyline at Sheraton Park.

 
It’s a public holiday in Doha when I go strolling along Al Corniche (the promenade) and come across Sheraton Park. Families are getting stuck in: cheap camping chairs, picnic blankets, slow-cooker pots big enough to stew a rhino. The Persian Gulf is right here, but the wild smell of the sea isn’t. Instead, masala wafts from pots, the Costa on the edge of the promenade is basting the breeze with cinnamon sugar, and the road right behind us adds a hint of exhaust fumes. The kids have been set loose and they run everywhere, with the universal abandon of barefoot children with lawn underfoot. It seems like every third child has a falcon-shaped kite. (Falcons are a big deal here – most men own one, and there’s even a state-subsidised falcon hospital to make them easier to maintain.) The falcon kites make me think of the gold, embossed falcon on an iPhone cover I saw earlier at the souk. When converting the price tag, it was worth as much as my car back home.

But watching these falcons, twisting and turning in their invisible gyres, against the buildings, reflecting gold back at me from their millions of faceted facades like sequins – well, this doesn’t cost a thing.

At sunset, strolling along the Corniche will give you the best view of the city.

Getting there

There are direct flights from Joburg to Hamad International Airport from R7 735 return with Qatar Airways; there are also direct flights from Cape Town. qatarairways.com

When to go to Doha

Visit between November and April to avoid the beastly hot summers – although almost everything is air-conditioned, so if your itinerary is mostly indoors, you might not even notice.

What you need to know

Visas need to be applied for beforehand – they cost R2 500 and are usually processed within seven to 10 working days, though you should allow 15 to 30 days. The visa application documents can be found at qatarembassy.za.net. English is widely spoken. Women should keep their elbows, shoulders and knees covered. The weekend is Friday and Saturday, rather than Saturday and Sunday. Alcohol is only available at certain five-star hotels, and bears the price tag to match. You can get around fairly easily in the turquoise Karwa taxis – about R83 (QR20) for a 10-minute ride.

Things to do in Doha

Go to the Museum of Islamic Art. Even better, go twice: it’s hard to fully appreciate an entire museum in one go. There are four floors of artefacts, from those related to science and calligraphy to everyday ornaments that belonged to emperors and sultans, spanning more than 2000 years. Entrance is free and the museum is closed on Tuesdays. mia.org.qa

Visit Mathaf Arab Museum of Modern Art. It was started as a private collection in the 1990s, by the emir, who was interested in curating the stories of art and culture from the Islamic world. The collection was donated to the Qatar Foundation, and now stocks over 9 000 pieces. It left me feeling exhilarated, my mind stretched in the way that good art should do. It is open from 11am – 6pm Wednesday to Sunday and 3pm – 8pm on Fridays. mathaf.org.qa

Paddle in the mangroves of Al Khor. You’d never believe that 45 minutes from the concrete heat of Doha you can be surrounded by clear water, the thick greenery of mangroves amid listening to birdlife. It costs from R830 pp excluding transport to and from Al Khor. aquasportsqatar.com

A five-minute camel ride through the sandy dunes just outside the city is a popular tourist attraction. Not for me, though.

Where to stay in Doha

K108 Hotel is a brilliant find: the rooms are as neat as a pin, there’s a swimming pool on the roof and it’s within walking distance of the Museum of Islamic Art. From R1282 per person sharing B&B. k108hotel.com

The inviting rooftop pool at K108 Hotel – the view of Doha from up here isn’t bad either.

 
Al Najada Boutique Hotel is on one of the quieter sides of Souq Waqif: it’s close to everything without the noise pollution. Rooms are large and beautifully furnished. From R1004 per person sharing. swbh.com

Where to eat and drink in Doha

Damasca One in the Souq Waqif is known for its shisha balcony and Syrian food. Get a selection of appetisers, so you can sample everything. From R113 per appetiser. damascarestaurant.com

Spice Market at the W Doha Hotel is known for its brunches, and exquisite South Asian-style food. It’s certainly not cheap – but if you splash out on one gourmet experience while in Doha, let it be this one. From R1163 for a three-course set menu. spicemarketdoha.com

Souq Waqif is peppered with hole-in-the-wall restaurants that sell Qatari food at great prices. There’s a good one on an unnamed alley just north-east of Damasca One. The sign is in Arabic, but you’ll know it’s the right place by the kilim-covered tables. From R84 for a massive serving of margogah and nakki (chickpeas).

The Cellar at the Oryx Rotana Doha is a nice spot for Spanish-style tapas, and it has a good wine list – albeit at prices that will ensure you have only one glass. From R211 for tapas. rotana.com/oryxrotana

This story first appeared in the August 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features Mana Pools, great North West parks, and best trips for women. On shelves from 25 July.

Our final selection of the #MyCanonWorld competition is out, scroll down to see who’s won and stay tuned for the final overall winner!

This final monthly selection is from the competition we ran over Instagram for the past four months. All of these entries (as well as past month’s top entries) are now in the running to win the grand prize of a Canon DLSR camera kit worth R32999!

See our previous top picks

Best of #MyCanonWorld for April
Best of #MyCanonWorld for May
Best of #MyCanonWorld for June

1. Waiting on the storm

A post shared by Heloise Alexandra (@trailheksie) on Jul 1, 2017 at 5:20am PDT

2. Hammocking on another level

A post shared by Stephanie Du Plessis (@antsypantsphotography) on Jul 19, 2017 at 4:21am PDT

3. Morning birds

A post shared by Chrismari (@xmaryv) on Jul 9, 2017 at 11:45pm PDT

4. The sticky pole

A post shared by sheldon goldie (@goldie4200) on Jul 10, 2017 at 9:56am PDT

5. A curious encounter

A post shared by Michelle Owen-Barnard (@michelleowenbarnard) on Jul 20, 2017 at 6:21am PDT

Our random winner for July is Michelle-Owen Barnard! Congratulations Michelle Owen-Barnard, you win yourself a camera bundle prize featuring a Canon EOS M10 and a TS 6040 wireless printer worth more than R8000.

There’s a reason we grew legs and walked out of the sea…

Does this ever happen to you? You’re at a dinner party and everybody starts to bond over the things they dislike the most. Like traffic, and Mondays, and people who have conversations in doorways, and the rising cost of being a living, breathing human. And then you chime in with your thing and the whole table stops and glares at you as if you just took money out of a charity collection box. That happens when I tell people I don’t like the beach.

‘You don’t like the beach!’ they’ll say. ‘What the hell is wrong with you? The beach is pure bliss!’

I just don’t like it. I don’t like the sandy bits weaselling their way into my home by clinging to every fibrous thing they can find. And I especially don’t care for the watery bits. The water is a capricious, hostile place that will turn on you without remorse.

‘But the ocean is life!’ they’ll say. ‘It’s where it all began. If you don’t like the sea you don’t like life.’

‘And now we live on the land. If it was so damn cosy in there why did we grow legs and leave?’

It’s usually at this point, just before cutlery gets flung around, that we agree to disagree and I say, ‘Well, I guess then the sea is just not for me.’

So, naturally, Getaway recently sent me to photograph a place that has oodles of it: Mozambique. The country is practically one giant beach. Just look at it on a map, stretched out beside the ocean, long and lithe like a belligerent sunbather hogging half of Southern Africa’s coastline. I was with our journalist Welcome Lishivha and a small group of cyclists on an inaugural fatbike tour, roaming the beaches around Ponta do Ouro on oversized rubber, stopping to snorkel to our heart’s content (read the story on page 80 of the August issue of Getaway). The cycling I was looking forward to. The being out in the open ocean, not so much. But I brought with a waterproof housing for my DSLR because what’s a story about Mozambique without photos of people enjoying its watery bounty?

‘How hard can taking photos underwater be?’ I thought, as I wrapped my camera in a silicone sheath while the others dropped their bicycles on the sand and sprinted for the ocean as if they were auditioning for Baywatch. I put on a mask, fins and followed them in.

I quickly discovered that taking photos in the ocean is actually much like taking photos on land. Except there’s no ground, you have no control over your direction and anything you bump into will either pierce you or cut you to ribbons.

Of course, when you’re in the ocean with a camera, everyone wants a shot of themselves in it too. So you oblige and try to point it at them as they float and dive and shoot big spouts of water from their snorkels. And when they give you that hand sign that means ‘OK’ you can’t help but think they’re actually showing you how big the hole in your body is from the urchin that just spiked you while you were pinballing between rocks, both hands on camera, trying not to drown.

‘Did you get it?’ They say. And you smile and nod and swallow more seawater. ‘Got it.’

I didn’t got it. I didn’t got any of it.

I might as well have just thrown my camera into a washing machine. The photos were all just blurred blues, bubbles and foam. And an upside-down photo of this man’s backside, whoever he is, two flippers dangling from a pair of limbs that are clearly not made to be there. I’m going to frame it and hang it on a wall and look at it any time someone asks me to take my camera to the beach again.

Read the full story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

For many viewers there was only one thing the shark needed to be… real.

In South Africa, the Discovery Channel’s Shark Week started off swimmingly on Monday, 24 July. For nearly three decades, this shark-themed event has entertained and brought vital awareness to these villainised predators. As spokesperson Laurie Goldberg told the New York Times, ‘The whole point is to get people excited about sharks.’ And excitement there has been.

An episode featuring the most decorated Olympian of all time was filmed in the open waters of Cape Town and its title generated a lot of hype. The promos of ‘Phelps vs. Shark: Great Gold vs. Great White’ implied that Michael Phelps supporters would see their hero take to the water, post-retirement, to race against a great white shark. He is nicknamed ‘Flying Fish’ so it seemed appropriate that he’d agree to compete in their turf.

Despite having size 14 feet, large hands and a long torso (i.e. the physique of an Olympic gold medallist) Phelps still needed to morph into a human shark to better his chances. He wore a wetsuit modelled after a skin adaptation of sharks and a type of monofin that imitates their swimming movements. All that was left was for people to decide whose team they were on. Would the great white’s 40 kilometres per hour be a match for Phelps’s “greatest of all time” technique?

Still from YouTube.

No one would know until they tuned in of course. What they also didn’t know was that the Great White wasn’t real either. Phelps lost a 100 metre swimming race in Cape Town to a computer-generated shark. For most, the problem wasn’t that he was two seconds slower, but that the Discovery Channel implied that his opponent was a living, breathing shark.

To be fair, the real speed of the shark was simulated but anticipating viewers still felt misled.

Phelps challenged the CGI shark to a rematch but maybe a future episode of him and Chad Le Clos shark-cage diving would work better instead?

Michael Phelps (@MichaelPhelps)

The clip is still worth watching even when you know the truth. Watch it below and tell us what you think:

You can also follow @DiscoveryChannelSouthAfrica on Facebook for updates. Don’t forget to wish the Shark Week fans a good one!

The evocative Baviaanskloof is a place of towering rock echoing with the call of baboons and bird song. Here, trails lead off into terrain worthy of Lord of the Rings, and the landscape changes with every mountain range. I find myself returning here whenever possible. Last year, whilst on the Baviaans Camino (read the full story here: why you should try the Baviaans Camino) I heard about the week-long horse trail that traverses this area, and knew that it was something I’d have to try.

Also read: walking the Leopard Trail hike through the Baviaanskloof

Aptly called The Real Thing, the annual 250km ride starts in Kareedouw, touches on the coast, dips through forests, crosses farmland, treks up (and down) mountainsides, over Karoo veld and across rivers. Broadly speaking, it covers the 4×4 southern access route into the Baviaanskloof, crosses over the Baviaanskloof mountains and swings back around, ending Patensie-side.

It’s a few hours into the ride and I’m getting used to the dimensions of my saddle. My horse, Aster, flicks her ears at my weight changes and jogs forward a few steps before settling back into a walk. All around me are riders. 27 of them, to be precise. That’s another thing about this trail that’s different – it’s done with a large group, on varied horses. Endurance-fit Arabs from Molmanshoek, two heavy-set Friesians, a number of farm horses and Herclé‘s tough Boerperd stock, which you can hire.

The collection of people on the trail is as diverse as their horses. Friends, families and solo travellers. Doctors, vets, English professors, school-goers and farm managers. Many of them returning for the third or fourth time. The ride costs a fraction of what you’d pay for many international rides, or rides of a similar undertaking, and goes through just as isolated, beautiful landscape. It’s done at a slow pace for the most part, which gave us ample time to crane our necks at the scenery passing by, and canter where the ground saw fit. Being the designated photographer-horse, Aster covered more ground than most. We pushed on ahead, fell behind and climbed up high looking for shots. She was an absolute star.

Each night was spent in a different, beautiful valley, and the sunrise would bring the bleating of sheep and coffee on the boil, while each day took us through immense scenes of sky-scraping mountains, which we clambered up and cantered over before having lunch overlooking the valley floor far below. The last day is the most scenic -if that’s even possible. The mountains of the Osseberg glittered as patches of sunlight flitted over its craggy, purple face, and after drawing in the 360° views we made our way down to the Groot Rivier, which we crossed 9 times, grass as tall as our horses’ ears.

This ride is for the adventurous, for ones who want to get out into the wilderness with nothing between their horse’s ears but endless views. Here’s what it looks like to ride for seven days, through seven different biomes.

DO IT YOURSELF: Contact Herclé from Baviaans Horse Trips. He’s the only horse riding operator in the area and offers rides of various lengths, from day trails through to multi-day journeys, throughout the year on his well-mannered and fit Boerperde.

The ride starts along the coast, where steep cliffs drop away to the Tsitsikamma coastline below.

Views over the forest towards the Baviaanskloof.

Fiery skies on the trail’s start.

Day One leads you through the cool shade of plantations and across farmland, where cows low on green pastures.

Swimming at our first overnight stop in Nguniland.

Last calls before we head off into the mountain, and Suz finding a comfortable tree to lean against.

The trail begins in earnest on this day with a steep climb from the valley floor leaving us breathless and the horses’ legs trembling.

A must – swimming with the horses in the Kouga River during a lunch break.

My lovely mare, Aster (renamed Astertjie) wondering why I’ve made her stop and wait.

Ominous Moedenaarskloof Pass, with riders small specks below.

Grey skies made for dramatic silhouettes.

The quiet farming valley of Nooitgedacht was our stop for the night.

Tending to loose shoes on the way.

Lynda running to catch up with the lorry, their lift to the chalets for the night.

Suz taking Noodle to go get saddled up.

The sweet Custard, waiting patiently in the early-morning light.

Taking in the view. Fires had raged through the landscape a few months prior, razing plants to the ground.

Herclé’s  second-in-charge, Hanneke, leading loose horses.

This cosy spot was our stop for the third night.

And up! We scaled this distance from the valley floor in a few hours.

… And had to stop to take in the views from the top of the Winterhoek mountains.

Incomparable views at our lunch break, looking down into the Steytlerville side of the mountain range.

This was a wonderful family ride to do together.

After 30 tough kilometres, we arrived at our accommodation for the night.

The next day saw us riding 36 kilometres over the flat Karoo veld. We picked up some speed over the gravel roads.

Herclé breeds and trains up Boerperde, a breed well-suited to this terrain.

After a misty day’s ride we were eager to warm up next to the fire – humans and horses alike.

Day Six! Because of weather concerns, we took the much shorter route on this day. The road wound through aloe-filled valleys.

…And led us to one of our prettiest camps, nestled between mountains with a nearby river to swim in.

A short day’s ride meant we had more time to relax in the afternoon.

Day Seven – the hardest and most beautiful day. We were in the saddle by 6am and only got off around 5pm that afternoon. 47 kilometres today.

But so worth it. Today took us into the Osseberg, a little-explored landscape accessible only via horseback, hiking or mountain biking.

Our large group looked very small against these gigantic mountains.

Aster carefully picking her way along the remnants of an old road that lies beneath these grasses.

We criss-crossed the Groot Rivier, wading through the waters as we went deeper into the canyon. A fittingly dramatic end to an incredible ride.

This cluster of apartment blocks and high-rise hotels on a fine stretch of beach (with a promenade to match) is one of South Africa’s most sought-after destinations. In winter it’s sunny and the water’s warm… time for a seaside break?

How it works:

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, they don’t offer a comparative voice. So how do we know if Number 1 really is the best? Pippa de Bruyn, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years for the likes of Frommer’s and the UK’s The Telegraph, scours TripAdvisor and other online sites when researching a destination. For Umhlanga, she created a long list of 42 to inspect. The following made the cut.

What we found about accommodation in this town:

• Locals proudly call it ‘Sandton by the Sea’, and it is. If you’re yearning for a cute cottage in a subtropical garden by the sea, forget about finding one here.
• One of the best things about Umhlanga is that – assuming you book in the right area – you don’t need a car. I focused on options within walking distance of retailers, the restaurant/bar artery of Chartwell Drive and lifeguard stations (currents here can be treacherous, so it’s best to swim in sight of them).
• There are many B&Bs but apartments tend to be better looking and offer better value. Of these I saw a great deal. I looked for the best blocks that (a) were on the beach, (b) were well maintained and (c) had sensible minimum-stay periods.
• Most apartment owners have three season rates: low, high (festive season) and mid (other school holidays and long weekends). If you want to book for December, do it now.
• Hotels all work on the best available rate; for those unfamiliar with BAR, it’s a fluctuating price based on supply and demand. The exact same hotel experience (room, deal, service) can vary by thousands of rands, so book months ahead. If you can, choose times that are not popular (Sunday to Thursday). Call the hotel to find out when rates are at their lowest.
• Penny Mande (mandeproperties.co.za) represents a number of timeshare-unit owners in the Cabana Beach and Umhlanga Sands resorts. Prices vary, but a four-sleeper at Cabana Beach can cost around R8000 a week out of season.

Best all-round B&B

1. Sandals

Tripadvisor No. 4 of 43 B&BS/Inns

Teremok may be the most luxurious guest house in town (and more beautiful than its website suggests) but Sandals offers the best combination of value, service and location, being right on Chartwell Drive but just beyond the buzz. It’s very personally and professionally managed by gregarious hosts Gavin and Malinda Attree, who are adept at making their small coterie (there are only five rooms) feel more like well-tended friends than guests. The gourmet breakfasts – a new menu is presented every day – are a daily highlight, as is the pool and bar area. The beach is a five- to 10-minute walk from the front door, but the large pool surrounded by loungers and well-stocked bar are so inviting that many guests end up spending most of their days just chilling right there. Come evening, Gavin and Malinda will make dinner reservations at the restaurant of your choice (they are well versed in the village offerings) – how wonderful to set off on foot and stroll back under the stars. Exactly what a holiday is meant to be.
Room tip: They are all equally well equipped, but sea-facing Pansy opens out onto the lovely pool area.
Cost: From R1000 per person sharing.
Contact: 0714472169, sandalsumhlanga.co.za

Smartest beachfront apartment block

2. The Bermudas

Unlisted

Every agent I interviewed raved about how well-maintained The Bermudas is, and they are right. Big, tall and imposing, it’s not particularly attractive architecturally but the gardens are lush and immaculately groomed, the exterior and interior clearly taken care of, and security is strict and thorough. It also has a relatively large pool, but bear in mind that there are no braai facilities here. Like nearby Glitter Bay, it is located right on Bronze Beach so you are literally a stone’s throw from the lifeguard station. The apartments are all pretty similar in layout: all accommodate six guests, with a narrow open-plan lounge and dining area, off which there is a kitchen, and opening onto a small balcony with sea view. The main en-suite bedroom has the same view, while to the rear of the apartment (or sometimes to the side) are two bedrooms sharing a bathroom.
Room tip: I particularly liked 504 (agent: Chas Everitt), 1001 (Umhlanga Beach Holidays), 604 and 901 (agent: Umhlanga Accommodation), and 802 and 1104 (managed by Jack Hogan).
Cost: The cheapest were apartment 504, from R1850, and apartment 1001, from R1950. But it’s worth contacting all the agents to find out availability, or price in medium and high season.
Contact: Chas Everitt lighthouse.co.za, ubh.co.za, umhlangaaccommodation.co.za, 802bermudas.co.za, 1104bermudas.co.za

Best resort

3. Breakers

Tripadvisor No. 15 of 18 hotels

Umhlanga’s beachfront is lined with great resorts, but the reason I loved this slightly later addition (built in 1982) is its location: bordering directly onto the nature reserve, it forms the edge of the concrete jungle that Umhlanga has become and provides access to and expansive views over what’s left of the original jungle. There are loungers set up to look out over this dense subtropical tangle, as well as a host of the usual classic resort facilities. The three swimming pools (including a lap pool) are set in attractive gardens; the loud music played is less so. There are a variety of accommodation options – you can book a hotel room but it’s cheaper, and the decor far superior, to book an owner apartment through one of the agents. Of these there are a number of bedroom configurations, some more attractively furnished than others. The only possible drawback is that it’s a bit far from the retail centre and nightlife; little kids love the facilities and daily entertainment but for teens it’s a bit far from the action. Some may say that is no bad thing, but if you know there’s nothing worse than being saddled with a grumpy teenager, Cabana Beach or Umhlanga Sands (the two Tsogo Sun resorts) are a better bet.
Room tip: I thought Chas Everitt had the best selection of Breakers apartments (515, 228 and 212). Umhlanga Accommodation had cheaper options, not as well dressed but functional (here my preference was for 418). Most of these sleep four people but there are two-sleeper options.
Cost: From R1100 (for 418, sleeps four).
Contact: umhlangaaccommodation.co.za, Chas Everitt lighthouse.co.za

Best luxury apartment

4. Oyster Rock 605

Unlisted

No one seems entirely clear on exactly when the Oyster apartment blocks were built, but rising from the lush grounds directly behind the Oyster Box hotel, they were an instant and enduring success. It’s not hard to see why. It’s very exclusive with strictly controlled access – you have to pass through the security checkpoint and boom that protects the hotel. The gardens are lush and gorgeously maintained, and as you are effectively part of the fabulous hotel, there is a sense of enjoying the best of both worlds: a self-catering apartment with access to the attractions at a world-class hotel (only hotel guests may use the hotel pool, but the apartments have their own pool). This place attracts serious money – as evidenced by the Porsche and Ferrari I passed in the underground parking garage – and so the apartments are on the pricier side of the spectrum. They are decorated with no expense spared but I found most rather old-fashioned. Not so Oyster Rock 605 – beautifully furnished, with wonderful views, and probably my top self-catering pick in Umhlanga.
Room tip: If Oyster Rock 605 is occupied, Nicolas at Chas Everitt has a few other apartments here, as does Jack Hogan.
Cost: From R3900 (sleeps six).
Contact: 0315615838, lighthouse.co.za

Best garden apartment

5. Glitter Bay

Unlisted

Bonny Williamson started her business by renting out a flatlet in her back garden; soon after, a friend asked her to manage her rental apartment, and the rest, as the cliché goes, is history. Bonny (appropriately named) is a very hands-on operator with a keen interest in developing a long-term relationship with her clients, and she has a long list of loyal repeat visitors. Flat owners love her too: she has pretty much sewn up the entire Glitter Bay, the low-rise apartment block located right on Umhlanga’s Bronze Beach, with 11 of the 18 flats now on her books. Each one has an unobstructed sea view and direct access to the beach. There is a small communal swimming pool and braai area at the back of the building. Most unique is that a couple of the Glitter Bay apartments also offer large lawned areas – the decadence of having a big patch of grass as well as being right on the beach is a boon for parents with children who want to run around but still need to be watched.
Room tip: Number 3 has a wonderful contemporary open-plan living space, with sliding doors opening onto the lawn. However, none of the three bedrooms has any view, and the main en-suite has an entirely open-plan bathroom. If a sea view from your bedroom is important, book number 8 (which also has a lawn).
Cost: From R1950 (sleeps six).
Contact: ubh.co.za

Best value hotel

6. Protea by Marriott Umhlanga

Tripadvisor No. 10 of 18 hotels

Well done, Marriott, for injecting some serious sex appeal into the rather stodgy Protea brand. This hotel – totally overhauled in 2016 – is a grand example of what a solid hospitality marriage can produce. The refurbished public spaces are real eye candy, providing a luxuriant, classy boutique-style look that feels decidedly five-star, while prices (working on the BAR) remain three-star. The rooms in the brand-new 15-floor tower are still a work in progress, and the semiself-catering wing is due for its upgrade this year. There are similarly priced hotels in Umhlanga Ridge, but you want to be here: on the corner of Chartwell Drive, in the heart of the bustling nightlife, restaurants and shops, and a three-minute stroll to the promenade and beach. The hotel has a small rooftop pool surrounded by astroturf – aside from the view, not that inviting.
Room tip: Currently I’d opt for a room near the top of the tower block for the sea views, but once the semi-selfcatering rooms are refurbed, these will be the ones to book.
Cost: From R1050 for a double room (less if you’re a Marriott member).
Contact: 0315614413, marriott.com

Best privately managed collection

7. Jack Hogan’s portfolio

Unlisted

According to TripAdvisor, Manaar House is Umhlanga’s number one B&B but I think its owner, Jack Hogan, has a collection of self-catering apartments that are the real number one. Self-taught Jack has a natural flair for creating cool, elegant spaces. He has a controlled portfolio of just 14 apartments; aside from the consistency of standards – all are well dressed in a similar style – he operates a very hands-on business (every guest is personally welcomed and checked in; housekeeping standards are incredibly rigorous). Of the 14, five are owned by Jack and his partner Mark, but in many instances , wners have asked him to furnish and finesse. The only tricky part is browsing for them – Jack does not have a central website. Instead each apartment has its own. You can find links to the five apartments he owns on the Manaar House website, or just call reservations manager Hermann with your dates and requirements – whatever’s available will be good.
Room tip: The five flats Jack owns are matchless. If you’re looking for a two-bedroom, I particularly liked 14 or 13 The Shades (pictured above) and 506 Lighthouse Mall. Ben Siesta 105 and D3 Sea Lodge are great three-bedroom options.
Cost: Varies depending on the unit. The Shades start from R1 750 (both sleep four), Lighthouse Mall from R1 800 (also sleeps four), Ben Siesta from R2050 (sleeps six).
Contact: 0315617902, manaarhouse.co.za

Best for romance

8. The Oyster Box

Tripadvisor No. 2 of 18 hotels

This is not just the best hotel in Umhlanga but the best beachfront hotel in South Africa – an iconic, lavish establishment that delights the eye regardless of where it rests. There is so much that is special here, from the high tea served under whirring fans and chandeliers to the candy-striped umbrellas and loungers facing the red-and-white lighthouse – a striking contrast to the dual-blue horizon and sculptural green aloes. The place is filled with antiques, some salvaged from the original hotel (in fact, subtle mementos of its long and fabulous history abound). The Grill Room in particular touches the nostalgia bone, with dishes flambéed at your table and a hors d’oeuvre trolley that wouldn’t look out of place on a 70s film set. Service is exceptional, with staff everywhere on hand to assist. Basically, it’s one of those hotels that’s just worth experiencing, even if only once, regardless of the cost.
Cost: From around R5140 double B&B (note: BAR applies).
Contact: 0315145000, oysterboxhotel.com

Special reader offer:
The Royal Affair includes three nights B&B in a classic sea-facing room for two, a seafood dinner at The Grill Room, bubbly and macaroons, a R500 gift voucher and transfers to The Gateway mall. R6075 per person sharing, valid until 30 November 2017. 086184677 (ref TH 422728).

Don’t miss this:

• The Umhlanga Lagoon Nature Reserve. Also ask at Breakers about a guided walk through the nearby Hawaan Forest. 0315612271
• An early-morning ride on a Natal Sharks Board boat, to see the crews servicing nets and spot dolphins and whales. 0315660400
• The latest craze: try Thai-style rolled ice cream at Yumibowl at The Siam restaurant. 031561-237
• A special splash-out dinner at French-Mauritian landmark Ile Maurice, which has been here for 40 years. 0315617606

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

 

Get this issue →

Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

The next time you head out for a road-trip or hike, consider these three sandwich recipes. They are delicious, filling and will remain super-fresh for anything between two to five hours without turning soggy.

Also read: 7 prime tips to keeping your sandwiches super-fresh

Egg Mayo

A road-trip tradition for many, but this delicate number needs to be eaten early on.
Makes 4 sandwiches

• 4 eggs
• 1½T creamy mayonnaise
• ½ red onion, minced
• 2t very finely chopped dill, fronds only (no stalks)
• Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper
• 8 slices (1cm thick) fresh white sandwich loaf

Fill a medium-sized pot with water and bring to the boil. Add the eggs and cook for eight minutes. Drain and plunge the eggs into cold water. Remove, crack the shells, peel and leave to cool.

Grate the eggs on the fine side of a box grater. Add the mayo, onion and dill and mix well until thoroughly combined. Season to your liking.

Make the sandwiches, cut them in half, wrap tightly and keep cold.

Grating the egg and mincing the onion super-fine makes this filling more of a sandwich spread that holds together and adheres to the bread.

Pastrami on Rye

This classic will last a little longer and the meat makes it a more substantial hunger-buster.

Makes 4 sandwiches

• 70g sweet and sour pickled gherkins, finely chopped
• 50g butter, softened
• 4 slices 70% sourdough rye, sliced 7mm thick
• 8 thin slices pastrami
• Dijon mustard, to taste.

Combine the gherkins and butter and mix well.

Divide one tablespoon of gherkin butter between two slices of rye and spread evenly from edge to edge.

Lay a slice of pastrami on the buttered face of one slice, folding in any overhanging edges.

Imagine where you will cut the sandwich in half and add about a teaspoon of Dijon mustard on either side of that.

Lay over another pastrami slice, folding in the edges.Cover with the second slice of rye, cut in half and wrap tightly.

Compressed Loaf

Find a scenic stop for a leg stretch and whip this out with a board and bread knife. Or carve it up before leaving home and wrap tightly in foil to keep it in
one piece. This solid, self-contained sandwich is perfect for padkos, picnics or a day on the beach – and you make it the night before, ready for an early departure.

1 loaf = about 10 slices
• 1 ciabatta* (about 450g)
• 100g sliced Italian salami
• 100g sliced mozzarella**
• 70g sliced provolone (a sweet, sharp or smoked Italian cheese)
• 80g sliced mortadella (an Italian cold cut studded with pistachios)
• 100g sliced Continental (cooked) ham For the relish
• 250g (1 punnet) tricolore peppers***
• 425g jar green olives**** (we used queen olives), drained, pitted and finely chopped
• 2T capers, drained and finely chopped
• 3T flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
• 1T red-wine vinegar
• 3T extra-virgin olive oil

To prepare the relish, preheat the grill and place a rack in the middle of the oven. Put the peppers on a foil-lined baking sheet and grill, turning periodically, until the skin is blackened in places. Fold up the foil on the tray to seal the peppers inside. Once they are cool enough to handle, peel, remove the seeds and finely chop.

Combine the relish ingredients and mix well.

Using a sharp bread knife, cut off the top of the ciabatta, about 2cm down from the top so you have a ‘lid’. Cut inside the edge of the remaining bottom without cutting through the base and pull out the bread inside.

Spread half the relish onto the hollowed-out base and up the sides. Arrange even layers of salami, mozzarella, provolone, mortadella and ham. (Alternatively, use the mortadella to separate the two cheeses.)

Spread the remaining relish evenly on top and cover with the ‘lid’ – if necessary, pull out a little of the bread inside the lid to accommodate the filling. Press down gently.

Wrap tightly in brown or baking paper and tie tightly with string – like a parcel. Place on a wooden board at the bottom of the fridge. Top with two or three heavy boards to weigh it down and leave overnight.

Use this recipe as a blueprint and adjust according to your budget and taste. Aim for 280g deli meat and 170g cheese so, for example, a simple trio of salami, mozzarella and ham could also work.

• We found Woolworths’ in-store bakery ciabatta was the perfect balance of not too hard, not too soft.

• Woolies has a range of handy pre-sliced cheeses, or get cheese sliced to order at any deli counter.

• To roast peppers on the braai, see Getaway March 2017, or buy roasted peppers from a deli or in a jar. Once chopped, the peppers should fill a half-cup measure.

• You can also use a mix of half green, half black olives. When pitted, they should fill a cup measure.

The Keep-em-quiet Snack Pack

Keep the kids happy by filling individual brown-paper bags as a surprise second reveal, and hand out when ‘are we there yet?’ kicks in. Lasts 5 hours.

• Pack fruit that won’t bruise easily, drip or require wet wipes. Apples are the best bet.
• Make your own trail mix with almonds, dried cranberries, toasted coconut flakes and chunks of dark chocolate.
• Choose raw nuts, not roasted-and-salted, to avoid greasy hands.
• Bake hardy biscuits that don’t have a major crumb factor (see Pip pa’s Ginger Biscuits in Getaway February 2017).
• Add a dried-fruit roll, droëwors or homemade popcorn.
• Encourage eating over the brown paper bag to catch any crumbs and collect apple cores or debris in the bag before discarding.

What wine?

If you’re packing padkos, chances are you’re headed somewhere special of the bush, beach or berg variety. And for winos, that means you need to make space in the boot for at least two bottles. Firstly, a fruity white for spritzers on arrival. Let the purists snigger as you mix equal parts soda and wine over ice – let’s wait to see who lands up more lip-smackingly refreshed after the long drive. A zesty Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc will do nicely, especially if it’s on the right side of the price/quality equation so it mixes and matches with aplomb. Secondly, you’ll need a meaty red for the traditional fi rst-night braai.

What label?

The spritzer With a 3.5 star rating and a price tag of just R37, Excelsior Purebred White 2016 is an example of the kind of Best Value wine we’ve got in SA (bestvaluewineguide.com). It’s also a bottle with legacy: the De Wet family have farmed Excelsior for five generations going back to 1859, which explains how even their third-tier range is a ‘quality quaffer’.

The braai wine Zandvliet in Robertson may be a famed Shiraz champion, but there’s nothing pretentious about their My Best Friend range that includes a super drinkable Cabernet/Shiraz Cape blend for R48. It’s fruity and spicy, made to be unscrewed and poured immediately – and because it’s unwooded, has a distinctly ‘nouvelle’ character that lends itself to being a little chilled before drinking. Better take two bottles…

The green giant When it comes to Earth-friendly vineyards, few can match the fully organic fields at Reyneke in Stellenbosch, where ducks reign supreme and words ending in ‘cide’ are strictly verboten. If you haven’t tried this label yet, now’s the time – starting with the charmingly named Vinehugger Merlot 2014 (about R80). Bursting with plums and red berries, it’s like Mother Nature tickling your taste buds.

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

 

Get this issue →

Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

We know how frustrating a soggy sandwich can be after a long tiresome hike or drive. To help solve that problem, we have just the right tips to help ensure your sandwiches remain super-fresh for your next trip.

Also read: 3 of the best sandwich recipes for your next road-trip

1. Avoid salad

Lettuce wilts to become seaweed-like in texture. Tomato slices leach juice that bleeds into bread. Keep your sandwich as dry as possible by eliminating the fresh stuff.

2. Centre the condiment

Dot it at the heart of the sandwich, between two layers of cheese or meat, to prevent it seeping into the bread.

3. Think bite-sized

Avoid big chunky shapes (like pickle slices) that will fl ap out of a sandwich and onto someone’s lap. Instead, chop fi ne to make a relish or embed in the butter.

4. Butter up

Butter the bread slices edge to edge to ‘waterproof’ against any moisture in the filling. Make butter work harder by adding flavours, such as finely snipped chives or biltong dust.

5. Choose loaves wisely

Spongy white will squash and wholewheat can crumble. Sourdough and sourdough rye have longevity and provide the framework for an architecturally sound sandwich.

6. Consider the ratios

You know that sturdier breads are easier to eat when sliced thin and an overloaded sandwich will fall apart. So think about the ratio of bread to filling for both flavour and structural integrity.

7. Match filling to bread

Meat and cheese can stand up to a robust crust, but a soft filling like egg mayo will squeeze out the sides and prefers clinging to a fluffy supermarket white.

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

 

Get this issue →

Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

Here are 12 must-visit spots that’ll get you away from the crowds and close to simple pleasures and (if you’re lucky) some delicious home-made food.

1. The Red Shed

Port Elizabeth, Eastern Cape
GPS S34° 1.229’ E25° 27.082’

This spot on Bushy Park Farm comes with something exceedingly special – eight kilometres of pristine beachfront. It’s a functioning dairy farm, and there’s some small shellfish industry. It’s as pastoral as you could dream of, sectioned-off pastures of acid-green fields and sweet brown and white cows grazing placidly about. What I loved most is the remarkable birdlife that proliferates in the garden, boosted by the coastal strip of unspoilt vegetation. Waking up in the morning was like plugging into nature’s most musical soundtrack; exquisite and a startling reminder of what life sounds like outside urban environments. An unconventional farm stay – essentially a glass box with two king-size beds and a bunk bed on a mezzanine level and two double sleeper couches on the ground floor – it’s best suited to a family or close friends. There’s a pool, a tennis court, beautiful gardens and even a trampoline. It was designed as a playground for the owner’s kids. They’re now grown up but the playground remains, luckily, for the rest of us to enjoy.
– Sonya Schoeman
Do it: From R770 for two; rate increases per additional person (sleeps 10). 0836506171, airbnb.com/rooms/9120180

2. Cobb Cottage

Baviaanskloof, Eastern Cape
GPS S33° 31.457’ E23° 55.390’

Being in this cottage makes you feel like you’ve stepped back in time, where things were simple and life was spent observing nature’s cycles. Set in the Baviaanskloof, deep in a remote valley, there are no passers-by here – it’s utterly private and quiet. The structure is plain adobe made entirely from organic materials and has a bedroom with a double bed and open-plan lounge/kitchen. It’s charming and sweet, and fully green, with solar panels for the lights, paraffin lamps and gas appliances, plus there’s a quirky outdoor bath. Some sheep are run on the former farm, but for the rest you’ll hear nothing but jackals and birds of the night calling after dark. The hike up to the Cedar Falls Kloof ends in one of the best rock pools I’ve ever swum in. Take hiking shoes that allow for kloofing, and start early – the heat can get fierce. It’s owned by Willem Maganie and Marta Humat, who were born and raised here. Marta can make delicious roosterbrood and sour bread, plus you can buy some of the delicious honey from the farm when it’s available.
– Sonya Schoeman
Do it: R980 for two sharing. 0749394395, gobaviaans.co.za

3. Taim-Go-Loer

Napier, Western Cape
GPS S34° 25.298’ E19° 47.105’

More of a smallholding than a fully productive farm, Taim-Go-Loer is still an authentic farm stay in the fertile Overberg region. Owned by Ilze Vos and Marlene Cockerell, the accommodation is a spacious two-bedroom home with peach-pip floors and a dreamy open-plan stoep, with an enormous fireplace, facing the wheat fields. Chickens have the run of the kitchen and there are two donkeys that’ll come braying for apples and carrots. Cell-phone signal is sketchy and there’s no television, so bring books and games. It’s simple but very comfortable, with a mixture of old furniture pieces and antique collectables. Thoughtful touches include filter coffee, rusks and milk, plus salt, pepper and oil – the things one always overlooks when packing. Ilze also runs the Napier Padstal in town, which is a great spot to eat at tables beneath a thick covering of grapevine. Grab a home-made takeaway for supper at the farm.
– Melanie Van Zyl
Do it: R375 per person, kids under 13 are R195 (sleeps four). 0834575027, overbergfarm.co.za

4. Rietpoort Hertberg

Victoria West, Northern Cape
GPS S30° 57.O45’ E23° 13.25’

If ever you find yourself cruising the N12 through the Karoo Highlands, look out for Rietpoort. This historic family farm is about 30 kilometres from Victoria West on a quiet road to Britstown, and chances are you’ll see something here you’ve never encountered before. The dolerite outcrops dotting the farm brim with petroglyphs (carved by the San) dating back to the Stone Age period. Something that really will blow your mind is the ‘Bushman’s Piano’, a stack of igneous volcanic rocks formed from silica-rich rhyolite. ‘Play’ the individual rocks with a stone and five bell-clear musical notes will resound across the Bo-Karoo plains, taking you back to a time of moonlight trance dances. Starry skies, endless hiking trails and day-long MTB excursions are part of the Rietpoort package. Once you’ve had your outdoor fill, tuck into local lamb, home-made bakes or other boerekos favourites. The house itself dates back to the early 1800s, with yellow wood floors, pressed metal ceilings and thick walls affording a welcome escape from the extreme climatic conditions. Rietpoort is a ‘green’ farm and runs completely on solar and wind energy, with a strong fountain providing ample water to this lush Karoo oasis.
– Jacques Marais
Do it: From R330 per room, R900 for the cottage (sleeps six). 0832714663, placesforafrica.com

5. Avocado Cottage

Melmoth, KwaZulu Natal
GPS S28° 37.255’ E31° 23.776’

I’ve always loved watching wind ripple through sugar cane, and from Avocado Cottage you can see it from your bedroom window. Originally a 100-hectare plot farmed by owner Henk Maritz’s mother, Euodia (the first female farmer in the area), it’s expanded another 300 hectares into neighbouring land. Avocado Cottage is one of the farmhouses available for stays: a double-storey brick building looking out over the cane fields, with large spaces inside, an ample kitchen, covered stoep and fireplace. There’s a dam in the valley below with wooden decks for sundowners, and Henk’s wife Riana often invites guests for a braai. The farm also has 55 hectares of avocado trees – some of its orchards were planted about 30 years ago. The packing shed is a beast, capable of processing up to 60 tons of avos per day. It’s surprisingly fascinating and worth visiting in season (June to November) to see the endless green snake of these creamy fruits being readied for market.
– Teagan Cunniffe
Do it: From R850 for two. Rate increases per additional person (sleeps seven). 0826512837, airbnb.com/rooms/12800736

6. Tierhoek Cottages

Robertson, Western Cape
GPS S33° 42.719’ E19° 47.355’

‘Dust spoils plums!’ warns a sign as you drive along the dirt road winding up into a crease in the Langeberg mountains. From this dirt road, tracks peel off to each of the five farm cottages dotted around Tierhoek, a working fruit farm. Quince Cottage, tucked deepest into the valley, is the most private – as long as you don’t count the trio of friendly donkeys that roam the adjacent mountainside. Sleeping four, it’s the most typical farm cottage. For a big family or a group, Fig Tree House is the one to book. Modern, spacious and with panoramic views, it sleeps 10. There’s a sweeping lawn that would suit a boozy game of croquet just as easily as piggy-in-the-middle. All the cottages have a private plunge pool, a fireplace and fresh farm eggs in the fridge courtesy of chickens which spend their days ‘skoffeling around for goggas’.
– Kati Auld
Do it: Quince Cottage is R1 160 for two and R260 per person extra, Fig Tree House R2800 for four and R260 per person extra. 0236261191, tierhoekcottages.co.za

7. Roodeport Farm

Clarens, Free State
GPS S28° 25.733’ E28° 28.864’

Just 15 kilometres from Clarens on a good gravel road that cuts past sandstone cliffs, Roodepoort Farm has four different accommodation options in big-sky country. The largest, Lara’s Homestead, has the most authentic farm feel with retro signage, Nguni- skin rugs and an old Aga stove in the corner. This is the original Roodepoort House built in 1883 that has sweeping views of the valley and can take up to 10 people. Angus cattle are bred on the farm and beans, soya and maize grown. When I stayed I also saw sheep sleeping in a barn a little way below the farmhouse. Despite its pastoral homage, Lara’s is a sleek and modern space with concrete finishes. It has five spacious bedrooms, two comfortable bathrooms and the lounge area has
a fireplace beside the dining room. Of the three cottages, the smaller two flank Lara’s and are ideal to rent if you need more beds. Tackle the hiking or mountain-bike trails on the farm, otherwise Clarens is close enough to explore if you feel like it.
– Melanie Van Zyl
Do it: From R700 per person for two and R350 per person for four. Minimum two-night stay. 0824475999, roodepoortfarm.co.za

8. Her Majesty’s Apology

Harrismith, Free State
GPS S28° 10.715’ E29° 7.753’

Set in a gorgeous garden filled with flowers, this renovated sandstone farmhouse is a real beauty just 17kilometres off the N3. It was burnt down during the Anglo-Boer War and rebuilt as part of British post-war reparations, hence the great name. Each room has a mesh-covered door leading onto the shady, vine-covered stoep and the whole place is cared for with fresh flowers displayed in each room. The bright and airy farm kitchen overlooks a cattle field and horse harrumphing nearby, but host Angie Bester can also provide fresh home-made meals or a picnic basket I eagerly had seconds and thirds of her creamy savoury tart and mango salad. Angie also knows the best mountain-bike routes nearby, with scenic options on old farm roads and more technically challenging ones. There’s a pool and dam for swimming and blue cranes regularly fly over the farm. Here, you’ll find kindness, heart and quiet that make it hard to leave.
– Melanie Van Zyl
Do it: R300 per person and R150 for kids over five (sleeps six). Single guests only pay R300. 0827571310, sleeping-out.co.za

9. Corrie Lynn Cottage

Dargle Valley,KwaZulu Natal
GPS S29° 30.779’ E30° 6.751’

Walking along the green hills of this farm in Dargle, mist cloaking the landscape, you’d swear you were in Ireland itself. Corrie Lynn was established in 1882 and the amiable Fowlers have been in residence since 1948. The 350 hectares are home to a 160-strong herd of Nguni cattle, sheep and crops (grown by Robin’s cousin). The lodge sleeps 18 and is great for bigger groups, but to me the smaller cottage takes first prize. It’s set up on the hill, covered prettily in wisteria that flowers in spring. The house was converted from labourers’ quarters and it’s simple and down-to-earth. An indoor fireplace for winter, wooden furniture (handmade by Robin), two bedrooms and a long, undercover porch with views over the farmland for you
to soak up, or from which to listen to the howling of jackals at night. Bring your (socialised) dogs for a walk to the large bass-filled dam, and if you run out of bread and jam, the farm stalls of the Midlands Meander are a short drive away.
– Teagan Cunniffe
Do it: R800 for two in the cottage, plus R320 per person extra (sleeps four). 0332344447, corrielynn.co.za

10. Kaapsehoop Horse Trails

Berlin Plantation, Mpumalanga
GPS S25° 33.461’ E30° 43.906’

It’s an hour’s drive from Nelspruit to Kaapsehoop, climbing 800 metres into the soaring pine plantations of the Drakensberg escarpment. Emerging into open fields, you’ll see the first free- roaming horses. Owner Christo Germishuys advocates natural horsemanship, a philosophy that requires plenty of space and uses coaxing and communication for training. Riders as young as six are welcome on his guided one-hour trail, with longer excursions available for experienced riders. The farm itself is scattered with seemingly ancient equine artefacts, some conceivably discarded for generations, others maybe just set aside for later use. These continue inside the four charming cottages, with old kit vying for wall space above solid farmhouse furnishings. Each cottage is equipped for self-catering, but be sure to have at least one meal at the Gypsy Caravan Café, where chef Mike Kay serves delicious 10 meals on his fabulous sunset stoep.
– Chris Davies
Do it: From R330 per person to R500 per person (cottages sleep up to 12). Horse trails from R315 an hour. 0761080081, horsebacktrails.co.za

11. Klein Nektar Wine & Olive Estate

Montagu, Western Cape
GPS S33° 47.512’ E20° 7.047’

I’ve mentioned the small cottage on this farm before, but this time it was the just- opened, exclusive-use Manor House that caught my eye. New owners Kai Daehnke and Alan Coles, fresh from sailing the world, have plunged into farm life with relish. You’d never expect to find so much space and quiet in the middle of Montagu, or the abundance of fresh offerings from this micro-farm. Five hens, pampered to an inch of their soft brown feathers, produce mounds of eggs in repayment. There are Chardonnay vines, a fruit and citrus grove, olive, almond and pecan trees and organic veggies – the produce is on offer in season to guests. The two-bedroom guest house is stylishly decorated with modern and antique finds, and a recent house-warming gift of a rare bar billiards table. The shaded patio drips grapes and the look out over the pool onto the Langeberg mountains, with the sound of sheep bleating in the distance, is the perfect accompaniment to your wine. It’s a taste of farm life with all the comforts of a luxury stay.
– Teagan Cunniffe
Do it: From R1900 for two. R650 per person extra (sleeps four). 0715062810, kleinnektar.com

12. Glenogle Farm

Magoebaskloof, Limpopo
GPS S23° 54.197’ E29° 59.836’

You’ll have three handsome horses as your neighbours at The Stables luxury self-catering cottage on Glenogle Farm, about three-and-a-half hours from Joburg. Flanked by pine forests, the stylish farmhouse has an industrial, modern feel (free Wi-Fi) and was designed by a local architect. The four-bed space is also exceptionally cosy and was built around the stables beside a grassy paddock. A beautiful spiral staircase leads upstairs to the bedrooms, from a living area sprinkled with lovely old furniture, generous leather couches and hydrangea bouquets picked from the farm gardens. There’s also a big fireplace with plenty of firewood to keep you going on colder days, and on warmer ones there’s a dam for splashing in or to fish trout from. In season, you can pick your own berries for R50 at nearby Blueberry Heights farm, but it’s worth visiting the Mountain Café on the premises anyway for fresh, seasonal food. Go for walks or bring bikes to cycle the mountain trails.
– Melanie Van Zyl
Do it: R700 per person for two and R475 per person for four. 0832598321, glenogle.co.za

This story first appeared in the April 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

 

Get this issue →

Our April issue features a guide to the Otter Trail, the sunniest roadtrip in SA, and 12 awesome farmstays.

The Mother City is a network of cultures that reflect the heritage of her people. It is also a place that people of different nationalities now call home. With them, they have brought traditions which you can encounter. Some of these are by South Africans who have been inspired cultures from all over the world.

If your passport isn’t likely to get a stamp anytime soon, here are some ways to experience the rest of the world from your doorstep.

1. Italian tombola at Lingo

It’s similar to bingo but you don’t have to be in a retirement village to enjoy this Italian version. Federica Marchesini is the founder of Lingo, an Italian language school and she regularly hosts ‘Lingo Bingo’, her tombola event. Italophiles will especially enjoy this game which originated in southern Italy. You may need to brush up on your Italian as it will be spoken throughout the evening. A meal and a glass of wine is also included. Lingo can be contacted for venue and cost but keep track of their upcoming events on their social media pages. There will be a tombola evening on 15 August at 7pm in celebration of Ferragosto, an Italian public holiday that is also a Catholic feast.
Contact: 072342049

Photo by Andrea Skerlavaj

2. Greek Evenings at Mykonos Taverna

We can all agree that food is a great way to experience a culture, especially when it’s from the Mediterranean. Mykonos Taverna in Sea Point is owned by Dimitri Peroglou whose Greek heritage is at the heart of his restaurant. On the last Saturday of each month, Mykonos Taverna has Greek evenings for R220 per person (excluding drinks plus a 10 percent service charge). There is a three-course meal and professional performances of folk Greek dancing. The tradition of plate smashing is also part of the evening.
Contact: info@mykonostaverna.co.za, 0214392106 (Booking is essential).

3. African cuisine at Gold restaurant

A little closer to home is an experience that takes you on a culinary journey through Africa. The Mali puppet that greets you at the door is part of an energetic ensemble performance that entertains you during the 14-course meal. You read that correctly. GOLD Restaurant’s menu takes you from the Spice Island of Zanzibar to Morocco and all the way down to Zambia. There is also a nod to South Africa with Cape Malay and Tswana dishes. Food is not the only way to get to know the rest of the African continent, there is an option of an interactive djembe drumming session before you dine at the cost of R95. After the drumming session, they come around to each table with a large basin and jug for you to rinse your hands under the jug followed by a paper towel to wipe. Dinner is R375 per person and is served in individual and sharing portions.
Contact: 0214214653

4. Make your own sushi

As sushi joints sprout all over Cape Town, the Japanese origins of this food may have become lost in translation. By joining Blowfish Restaurant’s sushi-making class you get insight into the background while putting together your own 21-piece platter. Sushi was originally prepared to preserve fish in fermented rice. The classes are R295 per person and are on the first Saturday of each month. They are led by instructors, Marc and JJ in a lively atmosphere. Take your relationship with sushi to the next level and learn to master sushi-making yourself.
Contact: 0215565464

Blowfish restaurant sushi-making class

5. Boules in the vines

It became cool to play boules or petanque when Karl Lagerfeld hosted a tournament in St Tropez, 2010. The game is similar to British lawn bowling or Italian bocce and the present version was invented in 1910 by Jules Le Noir in La Ciotat, Provence, France. Whether it’s still fashionable to play is no issue for Rickety Bridge Winery in Franschhoek who have it on offer as an activity for wine-tasting guests. They have their very own bouldrome, a common feature in southern France A refundable deposit of R50 for a boule set is all you need. It’s not quite France, but you’ll have a wonderful view of the Wemmershoek mountains and the picturesque vines in the background.
Contact: 0218762129

6. Belgian chocolate in Franschhoek Valley

The Chocolate Experience at Huguenot Fine Chocolates is the gift that keeps on giving. Danver Windvogel and Denver Adonis are Belgian-qualified chocolatiers who have brought their expertise to Franschhoek valley. They have a 30-minute presentation explaining the history of chocolate followed by a demonstration on the chocolate-making process. The Chocolate Experience takes place daily at 11am and 3pm for only R40 and you get to take home a box of these hand-crafted treats. Like their beer, the Belgians are famous for chocolate and if you can’t get to Brussels to visit the Museum of Cocoa and Chocolate (MUCC), go to Huguenot Fine Chocolates for an introduction.
Contact: 0218764096

7. Learn to play Chinese chess

Mandarin Chinese teacher, Tony Huang hosts a variety of cultural events at the Huang Laoshi Mandarin Centre. These occur monthly and include Chinese painting, Chinese tea parties, dumpling-making, spring roll-making and Chinese calligraphy. They occasionally host Xiangqi or Chinese chess for R200 per person. It is a popular board game in its country of origin and involves a battle where the aim is to capture the opponent’s general or king.
Contact: Email info@hlsmandarincentre.com or book online. 0826206200.

Photo by Rosino

8. Salsa Sundays

Buena Vista Social Café stays true to its Cuban roots and spices up Long Street with their Salsa Sundays. This highly popular gathering is from 9pm until late and the Salsa dancers also entertain with Bachata (Dominican Republic), Kizomba (Angola) and Reggaeton (Puerto Rico). There are drink and food specials and you are encouraged to join in with the dancing. Upper Long Street.
Contact: 0214220469.

9. Tea Ceremony

As far as cultural experiences go, tea can be the most fascinating. O’ways Teacafe taps into this with their tea ceremonies. They focus on the Chinese preparation and drinking of tea using Taiwanese High Mountain tea, a quality oolong. It is known as ‘tea art’ or cha-yi and the ceremony goes into how the tea is planted, harvested and how it is made. It is led by Mingwei Tsai, a master tea merchant and co-owner of Nigiro Tea. The tea ceremony is 45 minutes to one hour and is R250 for three people.
Contact: 0216712850

Photo by David Bote Estrada

10. Capoeira

One can’t practice this martial art without absorbing its history and culture in the process. The early origins of capoeira are unclear but enough evidence supports that it was developed by Afro-Brazilian slaves. They would use music and dance to disguise fight moves and this is why musical instruments are part of it today. It is a versatile art form that involves acrobatics, dance and self-defense. The aim is to be in constant motion with sweeping movements. UNESCO declared it an ‘intangible cultural heritage’ of Brazil in 2014 and it is practised all over the world. If you can see yourself trying it out, Abada-Capoeira South Africa has classes in various locations around Cape Town. It is led by Instructor Beleza who picked it up in his native Angola.
Contact: abadaafrica@gmail.com, 0835066026

Photo by Tatiana Souza

Discovering South African cultures is easy but if you need ideas, read: In photographs: the Cape Town Free Walking Tour in the Bo Kaap or 10 Cape Town museums and art galleries you have to visit at least once.

How have you explored some of the world’s culture in and around the city, and do you have a favouite from our list? Comment with your answers below.

Films tug at our heart strings because, in one way or the other, we often relate to the experiences of the characters or we find ourselves moved by the quality of a soundtrack evoking emotions in us. Films are so much more than just moving pictures. There is a rigorous thought process involved and many hands are needed to put a film together.

Here is a look at some of the Film Festivals that have caught the eyes and ears of many film critics and movie lovers around the world.

1. Tobago Jazz Film Festival, Trinidad and Tobago

The Tobago Jazz and Film Festival celebrates music through film. Films showcased at the festival are from Trinidad, Tobago and around the Carribean. The main purpose of the festival is to facilitate the growth of the Carribean cinema. You can attend next year’s festival here.

Music plays a large role in the films we watch. Image from the Tobago Jazz Film Festival

2. Mardi Gras Film Festival–Sydney, Australia

The Mardi Gras Film Festival has been in Sydney Australia since 1978. It has been called one of the top five Film Festivals in the world. The annual festival focuses on LGBT films and filmmakers, by promoting gay and lesbian titles. Next year, the festival will be heading for its 24th year. Read more about the festival here.

The Mardi Gras Festival takes place every year in Sydney, Australia. Image from the Mardi Gras Film Festival

3. Youngcuts People’s Film Festival, Canada

This film festival was founded in 2001 and showcases young film talent from Canada with film-makers ranging from 29 years old and younger. The festival is a good way to give the youngsters in the film industry a bit of exposure and to advance their film careers. See more about the festival here.

4. Tribeca Film Festival, New York

The Tribeca Film Festival was founded in 2002 after the tragic event of 9/11. The film festival was started by actors Robert DiNero, Craig Hatkoff and Jane Rosenthal. The main purpose of the festival was to promote cultural and economic revival for lower Manhattan, after the 9/11 incident. The films showcased at the event are buzz worthy foreign films, documentaries and short films. Tickets for next year’s festival can be purchased here.

5. Zanzibar International Film Festival, Tanzania

While the Zanzibar Film Festival may be over for 2017, the film festival is a wonderful platform to grow the film industry in Africa. This year’s theme was Finding Joy. The film festival has been running for 20 years and it is dedicated to films, music and the arts. See what you can look forward to next year here.

The growth of film education is one of the main highlights for the event. Image from Zanzibar Film Festival

6. Montreal Film Festival, Canada

Canada’s oldest International Film Festival takes place late in August until early September. The Montreal Film Festival dates back to 1977. The festival aims to bridge the gap with a larger diversity of films from all over the world and encourage the cultural diversity and understanding between nations. Read more about the festival here.

7. Britan Film Institute London Film Festival, London

The Britan Film Institute (BFI) London Film Festival runs in October annually. Going on to its 61st year this year, movie lovers can expect on stage interviews, music inspired films, short films. They will get to learn about the people who work and create distinctive films within contemporary cinema. See how you can attend the BFI London Film Festival here.

8. Cannes International Film Festival, Cannes

The main purpose of the Cannes International Film Festival is to promote the development of the film industry. The Cannes are important on a global scale and have a long history behind them. This year, the film festival celebrated 70 years. A team of researchers go around the world every year to uncover promising directors. Read more about the Cannes here

The Cannes International Film Festival was founded in 1946. Image from Cannes International Film Festival

9. Moscow International Film Festival, Moscow

The Moscow International Film Festival is one of the oldest film festivals dating back to 1935, but becoming regular in 1959. The festival includes films that haven’t been introduced to public screens. The aim of the festival is to promote a cultural exchange and the growth and collaboration among filmmakers around the world. This year, the festival was held for the 39th year. See more about the festival here.

10. Audi Dublin International Film Festival, Dublin

Every year in February, the Dublin International Film Festival takes place in Dublin. This year was its 16th year running. The festival showcases new international cinematography and also focuses on screen writing. Visit here to find out about the festival.

Submissions for the 2018 Audi Dublin International Film Festival are now open. Image from Audi Dublin International Film Festival

11. International Film Festival Rotterdam, Rotterdam

The International Film Festival in Rotterdam was found in 1972. Since then, the event has been held annually. The festival supports independent film makers. If you are a fan of fiction, media art, short films and documentary feature films, then this festival could be for you! See more here on what to expect at next year’s festival.

The cosmopolitan city of Rotterdam has a unique ambience, making the port the suitable host for the International Film Festival. Image by Erik Zachte

12. Durban International Film Festival, Durban

The city of Durban in Kwa-Zulu Natal has hosted the Durban Internationa Film Festival since 1979. It has become one of Southern Africa’s largest festivals. The Wavescape Surf Film Festival was launched from the Durban International Film Festival. The festival hosts workshops, industry forums and township screenings to introduce community members who may not be familiar with films to the industry. See what the Durban International Film Festival offers here.

13. Cairo International World Film Festival, Cairo

Going back to 1976, the Cairo International World Film Festival takes place annually. This year, the film festival will be hosted in November. The festival focuses on encouraging intercultural dialogue, making a viable contribution to the art, science and the film industry and encourages supporting Egypt’s local films. Read more about the festival here.

14. Rwanda International Film Festival, Kigali

There is much more happening in Rwanda gorilla-trekking and the Rwanda International Film Festival is proof of this. Founded in 2005 this annual festival will take place this September. The event has gained worldwide recognition of the past 12 years of its existence. The Rwanda International Film Festival is known as Hillywood. The festival promotes and encourages awareness and understanding of art cinema in Rwanda. You can still catch the festival, find out how here.
If you have attended any of these festivals, comment below and share your experience with us. We would love to hear from you.

In need of a break and a change of scenery, Ishay Govender-Ypma and her husband packed the car and headed for the Panorama Route on a simple quest: explore, unwind and recharge. Photographs by Teagan Cunniffe.

This article was originally published in the May 2015 issue of Getaway magazine.

A view of the hut-shaped ‘Three Rondavels’ in the distance.

It’s the gateway to Kruger, but the tumbling geography that plunges through the Klein Drakensberg escarpment and turns the Highveld browns and yellows into fecund greens marks a part of South Africa that is anything but thoroughfare. Here, in the Lowveld, roads swoop through verdant plantations, waterfalls splay like magnificent brides’ veils, thick forests reach for the heavens while cotton-candy clouds sink to the ground, and slow rivers carry wallowing hippos. Until recently, it eluded my reach.

With a week to spare and the desire to escape the arduous demands of work, we set out from OR Tambo airport in Johannesburg in a rented Nissan Qashqai. It’s a grand choice for a party of two, but we’d heard there may be floods and opted for something with tyres that could scurry through potholes and mud. The N12 heading east out of Joburg is unseasonably barren, but wide and pleasant enough. Soon it becomes the N4 and after three and a half hours we stop for refreshments in Mpumalanga’s capital, Nelspruit, perched on the Crocodile River. Turning north on the R40, White River whizzes by as we take in dense banana and pineapple plantations and nebulous blue-green hills. The Lowveld is moist and tropical, the vegetation abundant. The heat is thick.

Women gathering flowers.

From there we head north to Hazyview, our first base for a week of exploring. At Summerfields Rose Retreat and Spa, I gravitate towards the litchi orchards (it’s a working litchi and macadamia farm too); deep-pink globes cluster in bunches that sag to the ground. Soon, my hands are sticky with litchi juice and I’m cradling memories of my childhood. The promise of lunch overlooking the Sabie River pulls me away. More pleasant surprises await: a private cabin and spa treatment along the river, and a pod of five lazy hippos floating metres away. It takes some effort to get used to the sounds of the flowing river, garrulous in fact, as it tumbles past our cabin.

Locally-produced macadamia nuts. 

Well rested, we start the next day with a large agenda. The Panorama Route proper. From Hazyview we head west on the R535, merging into the R533, past the gentle slopes of Graskop to the gold rush town: Pilgrim’s Rest. In less than an hour we time travel back to the turn of the 20th century, when many of the existing buildings were constructed. Pilgrim’s Rest was declared a gold field in 1873. Today it’s a quaint village frozen in time, saturated with nostalgia. You can even try your hand at panning for gold.

A waiter poses at the Vine Restaurant in Pilgrim’s Rest. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

 
From Pilgrim’s Rest, we head back towards Graskop where we grab a pancake at Harrie’s Pancakes, something the town is famous for (they’re good, not great), and then move onto Pinnacle Rock on the R534. A 30-metre buttress rock protrudes like a lonely skyscraper emerging from indigenous forests, and wonderful views of the Drakensberg escarpment lie beyond it. God’s Window, which I’ve been anticipating for days, is about three kilometres away. After a steep 15-minute walk, we reach a 900-metre-high viewing point that stretches across the Lowveld in all directions. A glaze of mist obscures the promised postcard-view, but the colours swirl: green, blue, grey, and the camera shutters click. It’s quiet and a cool breeze sends a tingle down my neck.

Wonder View is just two kilometres away and we almost miss it. We stop, jump out the car and snap a pic of the grand view. We’re on a roll now. Lisbon and Berlin Falls are left for another day and instead we head to Bourke’s Luck Potholes on the R532. We quash the searing heat with cold water and new cotton hats purchased at the visitor’s centre and walk along suspension bridges that circumnavigate the potholes. The smooth hollows, filled with dark brackish water, appear otherworldly, bizarre even. Named after Tom Bourke, a prospector who had no luck here (but others did), it heralds the start of the Blyde River Canyon. Children are splashing in the water at the gentle fall around the back, and we regret not carrying a towel. We finish the day’s tour with a stop at Three Rondavels on the R532 – a trio of cylindrical rock formations 700 metres high resembling circular Zulu huts. We head back to Summerfields and reward our weary feet with pedicures.

Between Graskop and Lisbon Falls, thick forests that are typical of the region extend as far as the eye can see.

 
The following day is reserved for a long and leisurely breakfast before a 42-kilometre pootle from Hazyview to Mac Mac Pools, where we take a dip with local families. Someone mentions a nearby hike but it’s far too humid at midday to move. Nearby, at Mac Mac Falls, we’re reminded that Mpumalanga surely must be the African curio capital of South Africa: on every roadside and at every attraction, a vibrant range of beads, masks, carvings and fabric vie with each other for attention.

The falls can be viewed only through a wire fence, so we don’t stay long and opt to head back to the hippos and litchis before turning in for the night. The following day, after an outdoor bath to the thrum of the Sabie River (which we’re now used to), we hit the road and take the R40 north to Hoedspruit. The sky turns inky, and soon enough we’re driving through a storm. At Klaserie we turn right towards Kruger’s Orpen Gate and onto the gravelly Guernsey road. It’s quicksand-soft, and gloopy. We arrive at Phelwana Game Lodge, run by members of the same family who manage the Timbavati Foundation and Bush School next door, and stay put in our tent-for-two at the dam. The sound of the Sabie River is replaced by the hum humming of cicadas and catfish wriggling. There’s a hippo snort too.

The ‘Three Rondavels’, cloaked in mist.

 
Incessant rains keep us home-bound, and apart from a morning safari drive where we spot giraffes canoodling and buck grazing, we spend the time relaxing and re-booting. We read, lie in and enjoy bubbly at noon. Neighbouring Kruger National Park would make for an outstanding day trip – but we save it for another time. On our last day the rain breaks a little and there’s still one sight we want to explore: the Blyde River Canyon. But first we jump into the Qashqai, following Phelwana lodge owner Pierre de Villiers in his bakkie.

His family has been involved in game farms and conservation efforts in the Lowveld for around 77 years. He guides us around flooded banks and seismic-sized muddy potholes. From Hoedspruit we make a solo journey to the canyon, accessing the Blyde Dam from the Swadini Forever Resort. The skies are clear and we stop first at a nondescript path and follow some stairs to the dam wall, and then to the official panoramic viewing point. The waters are glassy-still and rich emerald, offset by the surrounding ochre rock. A couple sits embracing on a bench beside us.

The seven days slip by and before we leave, we plan a return trip. While there is ample to see and do along the Panorama Route, it’s the profound sense of stillness we experienced – the opportunity to go off the grid in parts, to languish in nature and her spoils in relative peace (even during peak season) that makes this special part of Mpumalanga a route worth visiting… again and again.

Need to know

While you don’t need a SUV, in the rainy season along mud and dirt roads it becomes invaluable. Lodges warn about corrupt traffic police trying to extort monies from drivers – they are correct. Never pay cash or try to negotiate. If it’s legit, you’ll get a bill posted. The skies turn hazy even in summer – try to pick a clear day to view the canyon.

Things to do on the Panorama Route

1. Pinnacle Rock, God’s Window, Three Rondavels – These three stops are all a must. On a clear day the view from God’s Window stretches as far as neighbouring Mozambique. Entrance is R10 per car for each stop.
2. Bourke’s Luck Potholes – Various vantage points and bridges look down on the surreal rock sculptures formed over centuries by flowing water. Pop into the visitor’s centre for information on how they were formed (there are also two short walking trails for those with time to spare). Entrance is R30 per car and R25 per person.
3. Boat cruise on the Blyde River – Learn more about the natural history of the Blyde Canyon on a relaxing 90-minute boat tour on the Blyde Dam. R130 per adult, ages 2–8 R75.
4. Panorama Route Tours – Visitors looking for an information-packed guided tour of the region can book a private day tour with Tours de Mornay. R950 per person (minimum two people).
   Tel 082 927 4072.

The hills roll and merge with low-hanging clouds at the Lowveld viewing point between Bourke’s Luck Potholes and the Three Rondavels on the R532. The Blyde River Canyon and Blyde Dam can be seen in the distance.

Places to stay on the Panorama Route

Summerfields Rose Retreat and Spa is pricey, but there’s an outstanding spa on site and Summerfields Kitchen is the best restaurant in the area. DBB from R2745 per person.
Tel 013 737 6500, 087 231 0112.

Phelwana Game Lodge – there are various accommodation options at this lodge in Klaserie, starting from R500 per person. The luxury tents are from R1 690 per person, including all meals and activities.
Tel 015 793 2475, 071 659 9555

What to eat on the Panorama Route

The area is well known for macadamia nuts, litchis and dried mangoes, and fresh when in season. Be sure to pick some up along the way.

Harrie’s Pancakes has been serving sweet and savoury pancakes in Graskop for 18 years. It’s become an essential stop for visitors. Be warned, bus loads of tourists arrive here. The pancakes are good, but not great.
Tel 013 767 1273.

Pioneer’s Butcher & Grill – this popular steakhouse in Hazyview is loved by locals. It serves outstanding steaks and the service is warm and friendly.
Tel 013 737 7397.

This article first appeared in the May 2015 issue of Getaway magazine.

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All prices were correct at time of publication, but are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before travelling.

In our August issue, we feature a new and fun way to explore the pristine beaches of southern Mozambique that involves pedalling.

As part of the assignment, I went on the first of its kind tour with Detour Trails to explore Maputaland by fat bike. As part of the tour, I found myself cycling alongside 14 enthusiasts and cycling veterans.

Here are 8 things I learnt while hanging out with cyclists.

1. Cadence

Given the calibre of cyclists on this trip, there was a lot of bike-speak thrown around. For example, as part of the tour, the likes of Ride Magazine editor, Tim Brink and Julian Bryant who’ve completed the Cape Epic more than once. There was also show-off cyclist and deputy editor at Getaway Tyson Jopson; bonafide wild man and National Geographic presenter, Andy Coeztee and leader of the expedition, Rohan Surridge. I learnt the word ‘cadence’ which refers to one’s rate of paddling, generally measured per minute. Andy advised that on average I ought to have been aiming for 50 paddles per minute as this was an amble. I found the counting helpful in increasing focus.

2. Burm

Right next to cadence is the ‘burm’, which I think a lot of cyclists say just to sound like cyclists. It refers to a curving corner that stretches out in a half circle like a roundabout. Burms are generally popular in Mountain Biking when a track winds around a corner. Use this word around cyclists and no cyclist will suspect you of not riding a bike or being a novice. In the Maputaland amble, we came across burms while cycling in a nearby beach forest in Ponta Malongane.

3. Cycling on sand is not as easy as we all dream it to be

Prior to this assignment, my cycling experience involved a total of three laps on the Sea Point Promenade with Up Cycling. Cycling on the promenade is as easy as we dream it to be; you get to coast and enjoy the view without busting a sweat. Fat bikes on sand is another story. There was not a single moment of coasting (when you also get to rest from paddling for a few seconds). You paddle the entire way on the sand, which is great because now I can proudly say that I paddled every single one of those 79 kilometres.

4. It takes a lot to get off a bike and push it

The tour began from the border to Ponta Do Ouro. On our way, we cycled past a small village market, where we were cheered on the side of the road. Overwhelmed by the cheering, I forgot to adjust the breaks as I was approaching a hill and by the time I saw the hill, it was too late to do anything which meant I had to get off the bike and push it amid the cheering. Getting off a bike and pushing it is a brutal way of admitting defeat, no one does it voluntarily.

5. Energy recovery is so much better in cycling

With each break that we took, I found that I was ready to keep paddling much further than I had the last time. With each break, I was encouraged to keep pushing further because after a break I wouldn’t be as tired and exhausted as I had initially suspected. After each break, I could go further before stopping to break again which meant that the need to stop for a break decreased the more I cycled. Towards the end of the trip, I felt ready to enter the Cape Epic (not).

6. Look at least 10 meters ahead

Cycling from the border into Ponta Do Ouro was very challenging for me because of the undulating tracks and big water puddles that we had to duck. It was particularly difficult to look ahead and map out a straight line in front of the bike to aim for on the undulating. Luckily for me, Rohan Surridge and Tim Brink instead advised me to look at least 10 meters ahead and aim towards that mark (sounds elementary but it helped a great deal).

7. There is a towing option

Yep, you can be towed on a bike with a bungee rope. It did not happen to me, although I was determined to prove myself when Andy offered to two me (and he wasn’t joking).

8. The orange stuff keeps you going

I was refilling my hydration pack when one of the organisers, Adele Burger suggested I add the orange powder (which at the time I didn’t know was an energy sachet) to my water. I’d always naively thought it was to make the water tastier until she added – “it keeps you going”. My eyes gleamed like I’d just discovered gold as I glanced on the pack and saw “energy powder” and oh did I add the energy powder to my water.

9. The understated resilience of the bum

Having spent three days on a saddle without any padded pants, my bum moved from sore, to very sore, to resilient – all in three days. And I’m not advanced enough to paddle while standing up, so I was on the saddle the entire time.

10. Cycling is really addictive

When you get into cycling, you almost never want to get off the bike. At the end of each day of the tour, I just wanted to move even further and if I had the physical capacity, I’d spend all my days. Now that I understand this, I am sympathetic towards those biking squads in my township who always gave their moms headaches about coming home late, even though it seemed to me at the time, that they had nowhere significant to go that required such a serious dedication to paddling. I get their addiction.

11. Cyclevangelism is real

The cyclists on this trip felt very passionate about cycling and all things bicycles. So much so that not only did they not mind my initial inability to move the bike on the undulating track, they were all determined to convert me into a bonafide cyclist with all sorts of tips and encouragement. It felt a bit like the first time you go to church and everyone is inspired by the determination to ensure that you are successfully converted. To this day, the 67-year-old cyclist, Alisson Gans (who arrived on the first day in a pink t-shirt written ‘I love bicycles’), checks up on me to find out how the training for the Cape Epic is coming along. Cyclists don’t just love cycling like Christians don’t just love Jesus – they want everyone they come across to share their unrelenting dedication to the bike.

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more. 

While on assignment uncovering the Northern Cape’s hidden treasures, I met passionate locals and was awestruck by the hidden and unique beauty of the biggest province of our country.

I also had the chance to immerse myself in the red Kalahari red dunes during a dune boarding session as well as rafting down the orange the river. My experience of the province, known for its open and vast landscapes, moved me and left me pondering a lot about our desire to hit the road. Whether across the ocean or down the street, the desire to plunge ourselves into the unknown and make discoveries about our surroundings and beyond seems inescapable and is something that in one or another, we seek even in the smallest of ways.

Here are 5 reasons why I think we love to get on the road and venture into the unknown.

1. Step out of our comfort zones

If the comfort zone is your enemy, then you know that who we identify ourselves to be is a matter of constant recreation, not a collection of adjectives and expectations predetermined for us. It is when we get on the road and travel that we get to challenge ourselves and find out who we are beyond the limited knowledge of ourselves. On the road, we get to unearth unrehearsed versions of ourselves. It is on the unexplored horizons awaiting our explorations that we find versions of ourselves that we wouldn’t find laying in bed.

The limited ideas of who you think you are, are insignificant in the grand scheme of what’s out there. Driving through the vast and open landscape of the Karoo on a long road that seems to stretch the hands of time is a good reminder of how small human beings are in comparison to big mountains, the wide open sky and in general, the vast cosmos. So go ahead and step out and into an unknown area, even if it’s exploring the street you’re always walking past. By entering a new place, you allow yourself to experience thoughts and feelings you never imagined to be within your reach.

Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

2. To get active

Aside from all the physical benefits of exercising, the release of endorphins when we are active makes us feel good. A lot of research done on exercising and being active show that it reduces stress and makes us feel good. Taking a walk is the most basic workout almost anyone would ever have. It is on our walks and trips that we get the urge to push the boundaries of how far our bodies can go to get that extra dose of adrenalin. You have to be active and push your limits to get an adrenalin rush that will get your heart pumping making you feel most alive. Boarding the Kalahari red dunes, left my heart thumping with adrenaline and left me wanting to push my body for the thrill of an adventure.

Dijeon Pienaar from Open Africa gliding down the Kalahari Dunes. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

3. To have authentic and altering experiences with people

Travelling is insignificant if it doesn’t afford us the opportunity for authentic life-changing encounters with strangers who often end up as friends. These encounters can only take place outside of our immediate and known environments. In addition to the networks and relationship that we get to build in our travels, we also broaden our perspective of what it means to be human beyond our social groups. By exposing ourselves to people from different backgrounds, we broaden our worldviews and become progressive people who are accepting of difference.

While in Ashkam, we stopped at Aunt Koera’s Kitchen Farm for a roostekoekie and lamb stew. She cooked the supper on an open fire under the stars in the wide sky. That evening, fellow journalist Melanie Van Zyl, Dijon Pienaar from Open Africa, Auntie Koera and I enjoyed candle lit dinner while bonding. We talked about her passion for feeding people and sharing Nama cuisine with whoever stops by on this side of the world. Her passion and generosity to share the unique beauty of her heritage moved all of us, almost to tears.

Aunt Koera preparing dinner at the Erin Game Farm. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

4. To indulge in idleness

The demands of work, family life and the fast pace make it necessary to take time out to step out of daily routine and recharge. Part of the sweet indulgence of travel is the escape from routine, providing us with the opportunity to indulge ourselves in idleness. Italians revel in this form of indulgence by allowing themselves small moments of escape from daily routine (2-hour compulsory lunch breaks I was told). The Italian way of life centres around Dolce Far Niente; pleasant relaxation in carefree idleness. We are rejuvenated by a trip when we allow ourselves moments to stop on the side of the road to stare at the fields, or observe the fading of ripple-formed waves come and go, letting our minds wander and be free from the demands of routine and daily life. Indulging ourselves in idleness is a reminder of how we can find freedom from routine by choosing to take time out from it.

Welcome Lishivha with Dijeon Pienaar from Open Africa watching the sunset in Hondeklipbaai. Photo by Melanie Van Zyl.

5. To learn and tell stories about the world

It is from the authentic encounters with people as we move through the world that we get meaningful stories to share about others, about the world and about ourselves. I’d go as far as saying that if it wasn’t for the human ability and desire to travel, there would be no literature or stories to tell, stories that ignite and fire up our imagination to carry on building a better society. We would perhaps be like flowers; static, reduced to aesthetic function and without any knowledge of what happens beyond our immediate surroundings. In sharing our travel tales, we have the opportunity to transport the listener or reader across distance and time to spaces they wouldn’t ordinarily be afforded the time and resources to visit.

Yes, we all love a good story especially one that’s told well, but nothing beats first-hand experiences of knowing the world for ourselves. When we travel, we collect stories that belong to us, stories through which we get to share our experiences of the world. After my most recent trip to the Northern Cape, it delights my heart to have to share with anyone who dares to listen, about the hidden treasures I discovered within my country.

Taking a walk at the Erin Game farm with Patat Van Wyk and Oushe Raad. We got to talk about how they juggle living in a world that’s increasingly modern while holding on to ancient traditions of the Khomani San.

Read the story in the August 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our August issue features 14 Northern Cape treasures, a trip along Mozambique’s pristine beaches on a fat-bike, holidays to take if you want to learn a new skill and so much more.