We lucky souls who call Southern Africa home have thousands of square kilometres of desert in which to soak up the warmth of the great outdoors. Jacques Marais uncovers a dozen destinations brimming with action. Welcome to your playground! Photos by Jacques Marais.

1. Hike the Wolfberg Arch and Cracks

Cederberg, Western Cape GPS S32° 29.288’ E19° 16.130’

The Cederberg Wilderness is a place for wondrous wandering, and its vast and colossal landscape bristles with serrated sandstone cliffs, tumbling scree slopes and precipitous valleys. It is a genuine wilderness space, where extreme temperatures have forged a sandstone paradise fit for the outdoor crowd. Get ready for rock-god heaven once you cross the languid Olifants River, with hundreds of prime adventures in this timeless landscape where San hunters once roamed. Few other destinations in SA boast as many hiking routes as the Cederberg, but in my opinion, the Wolfberg Arch and Cracks should top your list. Sunrise at the arch is supernatural, but in order to soak up those first rays, you’ll need to be out of your sleeping bag by 4am. Hike from Sanddrif campsite along a steep footpath via the Valley of Red Gods into the Cracks, with a spot of mild scrambling in these sandstone slots. This section should not take you more than 90 minutes to two hours before the trail then continues onto a boulder-strewn plateau and to the breathtaking sandstone arch itself.

Adrenaline rating 6/10
There’s a steep hiking and a tricky rock scramble and squeeze through the cracks. The steepest and most technical section of the ascent is just before you enter the Cracks, with the potential of low-level vertigo. Watch out for loose rocks along the path and expect some sandy terrain higher up along the trail. You may bump into the odd snake along the way, too.

Do it: The approximately 14-kilometre round trip can take anything from five to nine hours, depending on fitness. Permits cost R100 per person. 0274822825, cederbergwine.com/sanddrif
Stay here: Sanddrif has excellent, well-shaded campsites on the edge of the Matjiesrivier, as well as self-catering chalets. Camping from R200 per site and chalets from R850 (sleeps four).
Local secret: Cederberg Wines rates right up there with the top producers in SA and is also the highest estate above sea level. Try their Merlot-Shiraz blend to bring out the flavours of your braai (R102 for a bottle). cederbergwine.com
Superhumans only: The Cederberg Traverse is a 48-hour, 100-kilometre run with a 3 800-metre ascent. It takes place on 15 October 2016 and costs R3 950 but entry is by invitation only. Email your running CV to info@energyevents.co.za for a chance to participate. cederbergtraverse.co.za

2. Run The Bushman Trail

Gifberg Holiday Farm, Western Cape GPS S31° 48.546’ E18° 47.031’

The Gifberg massif and immediate vicinity brim with superb trail-running opportunities, with at least four well-marked routes suited to various levels of fitness and ability. These trails near Vanrhynsdorp are a ‘blooming’ favourite in spring when flowers nudge their way to the surface, while in winter, runners will relish the clear views over the arid Knersvlakte plains.

Adrenaline rating 6/10
The Bushman Trail is a 21-kilometre route with a solid side order of grunt through constantly changing landscape. Expect the odd scramble as you descend to the Doring River.
Do it: If you stay over at Gifberg Holiday Farm, you can hike and run for free, while day visitors pay R30 pp.
Stay here: Gifberg Holiday Farm House offers excellent camping (R70 pp) and a range of self-catering options from R190 per person. 0272191555, gifberg.co.za
Flower power: Gifberg Holiday Farm is the official home of the annual Flower Run and now incorporates the not-to-be-missed Namaqua Flower Festival (2 ‒ 4 September 2016). namaqualandtrailrun.synthasite. com

3. Stargaze at Tankwa Karoo National Park

Western Cape GPS S32° 14.465

Any desert is good for star- trail photography, as their remoteness and low population density generally means pollution-free skies and a lack of external light. The infinite plains of Tankwa Karoo – an arid basin bordering on the Cape’s fynbos domain – is a stellar spot for night-time photos. This national park features a number of secluded accommodation options, and you can set up your tripod without worrying about light pollution or dangerous animals.

Adrenaline rating 2/10
Triple this if you believe urban legends about ghostly floating lights across the Karoo plains! The Tankwa roads are notoriously hard on tyres; make sure yours are in good condition and that you have all the tools required in case you break down.
Do it: Park entry R34 per person. 0273411927, sanparks.org.za
Stay here: The isolated and romantically rustic Elandsberg Cottage remains one of my favourite spots in Tankwa. It’s about 18 kilometres from the Roodewerf park reception. Cottages from R1 200 (sleeps four).

4. Sandboard the roaring dunes

Witsand Kalahari Nature Reserve, Northern Cape GPS S28° 33.990’ E22° 29.256’

Witsand may well be one of SA’s lesser-known nature reserves, but I confidently rate this little jewel as one of my favourite conservation destinations anywhere on the sub-continent. You’ll have total freedom of movement, both day and night, from either the splendid stone chalets or a superb campsite, hemmed in by ancient thorn trees. Grab a stand-up sandboard from the reception and head to the sugar-sand mounds rising up from the thorny Northern Cape ridges. These dunes rate as some of the highest in South Africa, and they make for exhilarating high-speed runs.

Adrenaline rating 7/10
Stairmaster climbs and death- wish descents ‒ not for everyone. TIP: to reach warp speed, rub some Cobra shoe polish on the bottom of your board.
Do it: Park entry is R50 for adults, R30 for children. Board hire R120 per day. 0832347573, witsandkalahari.co.za
Stay here: There are great shaded campsites and rustic chalets. Camping R200 per site (maximum two), additional adults R100 pp and children R70. Six-sleeper chalet R1 200 per unit.

5. Paddle Neus Gorge (and catch a giant barbel)

Green Kalahari, Northern Cape GPS S28° 39.126’ E20° 26.826’

Neus Gorge delivers all the exhilaration, natural grandeur and drama one expects from a day adventure on the Orange River. Get in below Neus Weir near Kakamas and bash through a few white-water rapids before entering the narrow canyon, lined by cragged, volcanic cliffs. Experienced paddlers can trip the ‘Groot Rivier’ solo but newbies should hire a river guide.

Adrenaline rating 6/10
Rapids are Grade 2 to 3 at most, but it is an adventurous paddle nonetheless.
Do it: You need permission (and keys) from local farmers; rather book a guided trip with Kalahari River Safaris (they do fly-fishing trips too). River rafting on inflatable crocs costs R400 pp (including all gear) and gentler nature paddles cost R185 pp. 084-244-4408, kalahaririverandsafari.co.za
Stay here: Safari tents, rustic river huts, self-catering cottages (from R290 pp) or riverside camping (R350 per site) ‒ choose any of these options. See contact details above.
Diarise: In my opinion, the best two-day river canoe event in SA takes place on this stretch of the Orange River every year. The next event is set for 28 April 2017. Entry R500 per person. 0721849090, orangedescent.co.za

6. Walk with wind spiders

Kalahari Trails, Northern Cape GPS S26° 46.430’ E20° 37.900’

Just 35 kilometres south of Twee Rivieren, the southernmost entrance to the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, is prime ‘Small 5’ territory. And there is no one better to introduce you to the mini-beasts inhabiting the Kalahari dunes and scrubland than Professor Anne Rasa. Her nature walks have attained legendary proportions among amateur entomologists, and you can join her or her guides on both day- and night-time guided walks. On night walks, guests set off in search of wind spiders (aka solifluges) and scorpions. Ultraviolet torches help to spot these critters in the dark, allowing you to track them as they hunt and mate during the nocturnal hours.

Adrenaline rating 4/10
Walks are generally easy and relaxed (as long as you don’t suffer from arachnophobia).
Do it: The two- to three-hour walks cost R150 pp and must be booked in advance. 054-511-0900, kalahari-trails.co.za
Stay here: On-site accommodation includes camping, an old farmhouse, tented chalets and a private chalet. Camping is R90 per person, the farmhouse is R400 for two sharing, the private chalet is R1 000 pp (sleeps four) and tented chalets R500 for two sharing.

7. Crank under full moon

Ai Ais- Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, Northern Cape GPS S28° 7.340’ E16° 53.533’

The Richtersveld, part of a historic parks agreement with Namibia, may just be my favourite place on Earth. Great rock-sharded mountain ranges ruck up in wild abandon along the ravines gouged over the ages by the Orange and Fish rivers, and are dotted by a profusion of bizarre euphorbia, aloe dichotoma and halfmens succulents. Amid the craggy wild lands, dozens of gravel roads, Jeep tracks and footpaths spiderweb across the landscape, waiting to be explored by bike.

Adrenaline rating 7/10
Riders need to be fit and competent. Trails are anything from 40 to 70 kilometres and follow remote dirt roads and single-track trails. Make sure your tyres are tubeless and have been properly puncture-proofed.
Do it: The main entrance is at Sendelingsdrift. You can go in a sedan, but driving in the park is 4×4 only. Entry R70 adults, R35 children. 054-338-0500, sanparks.org
Stay here: You can’t beat camping at De Hoop or renting a chalet at Richtersberg; both are on the banks of the Orange River. Camping from R230 per site (maximum two people) and chalets from R770 (sleeps four). See contact details above.
Saddle up, sir ridealot: Join the Desert Knights MTB Tour, a six-day trip through the /Ai/Ais-Richtersveld Transfrontier Park from 12 ‒ 18 September 2016. It costs R15 000 per person, all inclusive. 0824661251, desertknights-mtb.com

8. Drive on the edge of an abyss

Fish River Canyon, Namibia GPS S27° 37.141’ E17° 42.899’

Popular myth has it that the Fish River Canyon is the second-largest canyon on Earth; well, it isn’t, but who cares, because it still is one of the most dramatic panoramas anywhere in the world. It’s an easy drive from Hobas to the spectacular ‘Hell’s Bend’ viewing point, but you can also judder left along a bumpy side road to cruise the edge of this 161-kilometre-long and 550-metre-deep gorge. If you’re driving north to the canyon from Noordoewer, don’t miss the Gamchab River 4×4 route, an easy 12-kilometre self-drive that follows the Gamchab riverbed north of Aussenkehr all the way up to the D316. Closer to the canyon, pop in at the utterly surreal Canyon Roadhouse, which rises up on your left like a scene from The Adventures of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert. There is top-quality strudel, excellent coffee and serious automotive retro.

Adrenaline rating 4/10
Namibia is famous for the quality of its gravel roads, and a good SUV will handle most with ease. However, a 4×4 is best for the canyon edge and the Gamchab River trail. Be sure to check fuel supply before venturing to resorts such as Hobas or /Ai/Ais.
Do it: Access to the Hell’s Bend Viewpoint is from Hobas Camp, and open from sunrise to sunset. Entrance costs R60 pp and R10 per vehicle. 021-422-3761, nwr.com.na
Stay here: Camping at Hobas Camp is R158 pp and half price for kids under 16. Alternatively, there are also campsites and luxury lodge rooms at Canyon Roadhouse. Camping from R160 pp. B&B rooms from R1 102 per person sharing. +26461427200, gondwana-collection.com

9. Climb the daddy of dunes

Sossusvlei, Namibia GPS S24° 29.176’ E15° 47.944’

The dunes at Sossusvlei are nothing short of spectacular. Dune 45 (on the cover) is one of the easier climbs – and great for sunsets – but the best one, in my opinion, has got to be ascending the 325-metre-high Big Daddy. Pack some water and hike up its windswept ridges for a breathtaking view of the stark tree skeletons of Deadvlei.

Adrenaline rating 5/10
This may feel like a ‘stairway to hell’ for regular couch-potato types, but the view is brilliant and with a super-fast sand run back down.
Do it: Access is through Sesriem Camp, from sunrise to sunset. Entrance is R60 pp and R10 per vehicle. 0214223761, nwr.com.na
Stay here: Camping at Sesriem Camp is from R180 pp. Alternatively, rooms at Sossus Dune Lodge are from R2 700 per person.

10. Track a desert rhino in Damaraland

Namibia GPS S20° 1.475’ E13° 50.725’

The rugged Damaraland topography tumbles amid the arid skylines of north-west Namibia, unfolding all the way into neighbouring Angola. There are a number of wilderness concessions in the area, offering superb eco-adventures where tourists can experience the wild up close and personal. Tracking a desert black rhino on foot is about as exhilarating as it gets.

Adrenaline rating 7/10
Black rhinos are notoriously grumpy mega-mammals, but experienced guides monitor the excursion to safeguard the group. Still, seeing one is exhilarating and you’ll also get to know more about the peculiar fauna and flora for which Namibia is so famous.
Do it: Rhino tracking is included in the Desert Rhino Camp accommodation rate.
Stay here: Wilderness Safaris Desert Rhino Camp is located in the centre of the largest free- roaming black rhino population in Africa. Rooms from R4 450 per person sharing. 0118071800, wilderness-safaris.com

11. Twitch on a fat bike

Tuli Game Reserve, Botswana GPS S22° 12.842’ E29° 05.687’

The Tuli Block, a semi-desert sliver of land between SA and Zimbabwe, incorporates a diverse range of habitats to make it one of the continent’s top birding destinations. More than 350 species have been listed here and the area is especially known for its abundance of owls, including the exceedingly rare Pel’s fishing owl.

Adrenaline rating 3/10
The Tuli Block consists mainly of privately owned game farms; dangerous game roam freely here and due care should be taken.
Do it: Solo or guided mountain-bike rides can be tailored for birding groups at either Mashatu or Tuli Game Reserve. The three-night Mashatu Wilderness Trail costs R6840 per person. 0823165531, mtbsafaris.com
Stay here: Stylish Limpopo Camp, in Tuli Game Reserve, is right on the Limpopo River. From R950 pp (minimum four adults). 012-548-1812, tuligamereserve.com

12. Listen to the roar of black- maned lion

Kgalagadi Botswana GPS S24° 21.482’ E20° 37.545’

Dusk at Kaa Gate is prime time for lions, drawn to its waterhole for a pre-prowl drink. As night falls, the lions get active, roaring their presence to friend and foe alike. Kaa’s unfenced stands are usually used for late arrivals and pitching camp in the lion-filled blackness can be nerve-wracking.

Adrenaline rating 7/10
A distant roar is a beautiful thing, but at 100 metres, in the fenceless dark, there’s no doubt who’s king of the Kgalagadi.
Do it: The Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks manages this section of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Entry R30 pp and R6 per vehicle.
Stay here: Camping at one of Kaa Gate’s two stands is R40 per person. +2673180774, dwnp@gov.bw

A walk in the wild leads to new resolutions.

A month ago I dragged photographer Teagan Cunniffe into the bush again. This time, we were at Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, at the foot of the Warmwaterberg mountains. It was spring; it was meant to be warm, but we got up every morning before six and layered tee over vest, then second skin, jersey, scarf and windbreaker, expecting to peel them off as the sun rose, only to tug them tighter against the wind. Our lips chapped, our noses froze, our fingers looked like frozen oven chips. And we were loving it.

We studied brilliant crassulas. We walked up to a rotting hippo carcass and watched as black-backed jackals nosed about its maggot-infested bulk. We saw three rhinos charging down a river bed, scoured the bush for birds. A cheetah took the measure of our graceless two legs, then flipped herself head over tail just like Ozzie my house cat does. It was enchanting.

I’d been to Sanbona before when it advertised itself as a Big Five reserve, which it is. But coming from KwaZulu- Natal, where the herds of big game come in double-up sizes, it had underwhelmed. However, down on the ground, the detail drew us in,
and when we looked up and saw megafauna, it felt like everything fitted. This change of pace has come about because Sanbona has a new owner, whose approach is focused on legacy and leaving a healthy environment. This has meant the management is now free to focus on the health of the ecosystem. It’s exciting to see this shift. If successful, that approach will move out in concentric circles, plus it feels like this way has an ethical starting point. Living ethically can be complex. One’s choices aren’t necessarily simple equations that end in positive outcomes.

But there are people out there who make it easier for us, especially as consumers. Take a look at the Green Wine booklet that has come with your magazine this month. All these farmers choose to run their land in an environmentally friendly manner.

As a result they produce not only great wines, but wholesome, biodiverse environments. How admirable. It’s easier, I’m sure, simply to bend with convenience of modern management techniques.

I believe in eating ethically. Embarrassingly Capetonian, right? But I dislike abattoirs more than I hate how annoying I sound or, no doubt, am. But I might as well go all in: from now on, I’ve resolved to buy only green wines, too. I mean, pesticides are the abattoir of the insect world, right?

And I want to give bees a chance.

Now for inside the magazine: don’t miss our cover story on Madagascar by Tyson Jopson (The Brave Came Running, page 82), our features on a set of invigorating slackpacking trails (Two Hikes for Two Types, page 72), or Mexico (The Monster You Want to Meet, page 92). And more. We hope this issue makes you restless.

This month’s contributors

 

Janine Stephen

From pop stars to Alaskan truckers and even a former president, Janine has met (and interviewed) all sorts. Most of all she loves far-flung places… Whether it’s Groot Marico or Mexico City. On page 92, she tells you why Mexico’s capital needs to be your next faraway escape.

Welcome Lishivha

After a skydiving excursion, this recent addition to the Getaway team kept asking everyone to call him ‘The One Who Fell from the Sky’. Clearly in need of some grounding, we decided to send him on his first-ever multi-day hike – into the Overberg. Read about it on page 72.

Evan Haussman

A veteran journalist with little desire to travel the beaten track, we sent Evan to his happy place (Mozambique) to find
a new, relaxing route to get to Inhambane. He may have taken the ‘relaxing’ part too literally, because we haven’t heard from him since. Read his story on page 56.

 

This story originally appeared in the November 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

All prices correct at publication, but are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before booking or buying.

Photo by Genaro Bardy.

Our columnist bites off more than he can chew at a legendary pizza parlour in New York.

When I’m travelling I often avoid swanky restaurants because I don’t have my good shoes and jacket with me and because I’m allergic to bills in foreign currencies that require me to kidnap a sheikh’s son for ransom money to afford the tip. But I didn’t expect to be intimidated at Totonno’s. Totonno’s is the best pizza restaurant in America and probably the world, or so they tell you. A bunch of pizza restaurants in New York tell you that. It’s hard to verify, but Totonno’s has a strong claim.

It’s not really a restaurant. It’s a greasy den on Neptune Avenue in Coney Island at the distant end of the F-train that runs eastwards out of lower Manhattan and hurries through the warehouses and ungentrified hinterlands of Brooklyn. It opened in 1924 and had a table permanently reserved for Al Capone, and I don’t think they’ve changed the tablecloths since. They only make pizzas, nothing else. The walls are decorated with framed faded sports pages from the 1930s. The guys in the kitchen have hairy arms and grubby white vests and give the impression they’re concealing a lit cigarette and as soon as you look away they’ll take an insolent puff.

This is not a place that puts on airs and graces. I arrived with my friend Jacques and asked for a table. ‘We’re full! Wait outside!’ bellowed the proprietress, an elderly spade-shaped woman with a face like the inside of a duffel bag. We stood on the sidewalk and watched cars swerve down the street avoiding the potholes until she grunted at us to enter. We sat nervously. ‘Where you from?’ she said. ‘England?’ ‘South Africa.’

She glared at me as though I was playing a practical joke on the wrong person. ‘What’ll you have?’ she said, with a voice like someone breaking a gin bottle. ‘I want a pizza,’ I answered in a small voice. ‘No kidding!’ she hollered. ‘Hey, Sal, the English guys want a pizza!’ ‘Well, la-di-da!’ yelled Sal back from the kitchen. ‘Any particular pizza for your majesties?’ she said, dropping some kind of grotesque curtsy. It was surreal. I’ve never felt so abused in a restaurant, which is saying something because
I sometimes eat out in Cape Town. ‘Um,’ I said. ‘Um,’ said Jacques.

We scanned the menu but we were panicking so much our eyes weren’t transmitting information to our brains. ‘You’ll have the sausage and peppers,’ she growled at me. ‘He’ll have the anchovies.’ I knew I should just nod and accept her decision but I had a question. Jacques’ eyes widened as he realised what I was about to do. He began to shake his head and make the sort of low, pleading sounds you’d expect from a sheikh’s son who has been gagged and tied to a chair. ‘The peppers,’ I said, ‘are they green peppers?’ There was a long, frozen silence. In the distance, I could hear the carnival music from Luna Park and the creams from the kids on the Cyclone.

‘Green peppers?’ she said incredulously. ‘Green peppers?’ ‘It’s just that I don’t eat green peppers, and…’ ‘Sal! This idiot thinks we put green peppers on our sausage pie!’ ‘No, I’m just checking that–’ ‘You want green peppers, get the hell out of here.’ ‘No, I don’t, I promise!’

‘Why are you even still here?!’ ‘I’m so hungry.’ Finally she agreed to bring us our orders, provided we didn’t do anything and didn’t say anything else. I don’t even remember what the pizzas tasted like. As we shuffled out, stunned and trembling, she came past and pinched my bottom. ‘See you soon, cutie pie,’ she said.

This story first appeared in the November 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our November issue is packed full of great summer holiday ideas. On shelves from 24 October.

What does it take to capture a world-class wildlife photograph? If you don’t live in the bush, or you aren’t keen on spending the value of a decent middle-entry car on your camera lenses, or you’re just habitually unlucky, it might seem impossible.

Fear not, friends! Because this year, the Natural History Museum has released their 2016 selection for the international Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition, and yes – it’s true – the winning photo was taken with a GoPro Hero4 Black.

It’s a great endorsement for the quality of new GoPros, but it also signals that there’s hope for all of us. So on that note, please enjoy the beautiful images below: and the stories behind them, straight from the photographers themselves.

Feeling inspired? We’re accepting entries for Getaway Gallery 2017. Just saying.

1. Entwined lives

Winner: Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2016

A young male orangutan makes the 30-metre (100-foot) climb up the thickest root of the strangler fig that has entwined itself around a tree emerging high above the canopy. Photo by Tim Laman.

 
The backdrop is the rich rainforest of the Gunung Palung National Park, in West Kalimantan, one of the few protected orangutan strongholds in Indonesian Borneo. The orangutan has returned to feast on the crop of figs. He has a mental map of the likely fruiting trees in his huge range, and he has already feasted here. Tim knew he would return and, more important, that there was no way to reach the top – no route through the canopy – other than up the tree. But he had to do three days of climbing up and down himself, by rope, to place in position several GoPro cameras that he could trigger remotely to give him a chance of not only a wide‐angle view of the forest below but also a view of the orangutan’s face from above. This shot was the one he had long visualized, looking down on the orangutan within its forest home.

2. Wild West stand-off

Finalist: Mammals

A grizzly bear charges at ravens trying to grab a piece of the feast. The bison is a road-kill that rangers have moved to a spot they use for carrion to avoid contact between predators and tourists. Photo by Charlie Hamilton James.

 
The location is Grand Teton National Park, part of the Greater Yellowstone ecosystem in the western US, where grizzlies still roam. ‘Approaching a bear’s lunch is a dangerous thing to do,’ says Charlie. So there were strict protocols for getting out of his vehicle every time he went to check his camera trap. Over nearly five months, he had thousands of images of ravens and vultures, but only a few of wolves or bears, and none were up to the high standards he set himself, until this one. ‘The moment I saw it, I was so excited. It had taken nearly five months to get a decent image out of the set-up. It’s rare that I like my images, but I really like this one – though I still get annoyed that the top raven is positioned right over the Grand Teton mountain.’

The Yellowstone grizzly population has been protected since the 1970s, but now that numbers are recovering, it is proposed that the population is removed from the federal list of protected species, allowing hunting outside the two parks. This has raised concerns not only about the grizzlies’ fate but also about the knock-on effect on the ecology.

3. Pangolin pit

Winner: the Wildlife Photojournalist Award: single image

Nothing prepared Paul for what he saw: some 4,000 defrosting pangolins (5 tons) from one of the largest seizures of the animals on record. They were destined for China and Vietnam for the exotic‐meat trade or for traditional medicine (their scales are thought, wrongly, to treat a variety of ailments). Photo by Paul Hilton.

 
Pangolins have become the world’s most trafficked animals, with all eight species targeted. This illegal trade, along with habitat loss and local hunting, means that the four Asian species are now endangered or critically endangered, and Africa’s four species are heading that way. These Asian victims, mostly Sunda pangolins, were part of a huge seizure – a joint operation between Indonesia’s police and the World Conservation Society – found hidden in a shipping container behind a façade of frozen fish, ready for export from the major port of Belawan in Sumatra.

Also seized were 96 live pangolins (destined to be force-fed to increase their size), along with 100 kilos (220 pounds) of pangolin scales (formed from keratin, the same substance in fingernails and rhino horn) worth some $1.8 million on the black market, and 24 bear paws. All had come from northern Sumatra. The dead pangolins were driven to a specially dug pit and then incinerated. The live ones were taken north and released in the rainforest. ‘Wildlife crime is big business,’ says Paul. ‘It will stop only when the demand stops.’

Looking for some good news? Pangolins recently received the highest international level of protection from trafficking.

4. The alley cat

Winner: Urban

At night, in the Aarey Milk Colony in a suburb of Mumbai bordering Sanjay Gandhi National Park, leopards slip ghost-like through the maze of alleys, looking for food (especially stray dogs). Photo by Nayan Khanolkar.

 
The Warli people living in the area respect the big cats. Despite close encounters and occasional attacks (a particular spate coinciding with the relocation of leopards from other areas into the park), the cats are an accepted part of their lives and their culture, seen in the traditional paintings that decorate the walls of their homes. The leopard is not only the most versatile of the world’s big cats but possibly the most persecuted. With growing human-leopard conflicts elsewhere grabbing the headlines, Nayan was determined to use his pictures to show how things can be different with tolerance and planning.

Once he had convinced the Warli people of his plan, they supplied him with valuable information, as well as keeping an eye on his equipment. Positioning his flashes to mimic the alley’s usual lighting and his camera so that a passing cat would not dominate the frame, he finally – after four months – got the shot he wanted. With a fleeting look of enquiry in the direction of the camera click, a leopard went about its business alongside people’s homes. Nayan hopes that those living in Mumbai’s new high-rise developments now impinging on the park will learn from the Warli how to co‐exist with the original inhabitants of the land.

5. The aftermath

Winner: Mammals

Eerie silence and a mound of lifeless bodies: the contrast with the mayhem of the previous day couldn’t have been starker. And the stench was already dreadful. Photo by Simon Stafford.

 
The day before, thousands of wildebeest on migration through Kenya’s Maasai Mara National Reserve had massed at the Mara River, nervous of the crossing ahead and of the huge Nile crocodiles lying in wait. Once one made the leap, they all surged forward and the river became a maelstrom of flailing hooves and crocodiles. In their frantic efforts to get out, they carved gullies in the riverbank, and in over an hour, as the gullies became deeper and deeper, more and more wildebeest slipped back down and died under the hooves of the ones coming out of the river.

Simon returned at first light, knowing that scavengers would gather at the site of the carnage. ‘It was a sinister scene,’ he says. ‘There must have been 50 or more carcasses, piled two or three deep.’ Spotted hyenas were already feeding, and hippos and crocodiles had gathered in the river below. As Simon watched from the other side of the wide river, one hyena left the feast and stood, as if standing sentry, at the river’s edge watching the gathering of crocodiles in the water below.

6. Playing pangolin

Finalist: Black and White

The lions (in South Africa’s Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve) had discovered a Temminck’s ground pangolin. Photo by Lance van de Vyver.

 
This nocturnal, ant-eating mammal is armour-plated with scales made of fused hair, and it curls up into an almost impregnable ball when threatened. Pangolins usually escape unscathed from big cats (though not from humans, whose exploitation of them for the traditional medicine trade is causing their severe decline). But these lions just wouldn’t give up. ‘They rolled it around like a soccer ball,’ says Lance. ‘Every time they lost interest, the pangolin uncurled and tried to retreat, attracting their attention again.’ Spotting a young lion holding the pangolin ball on a termite mound close to the vehicle, Lance focused in on the lion’s claws and the pangolin’s scratched scales, choosing black and white to help simplify the composition.

It was 14 hours before the pride finally moved off to hunt. The pangolin did not appear to be injured, but it died shortly after, probably not just from the stress of capture but also from being out in the heat all day.

7. Snapper Party

Winner: Underwater

For several days each month (in tandem with the full moon), thousands of two‐spot red snappers gather to spawn around Palau in the western Pacific Ocean. Photo by Tony Wu.

 
The action is intense as the fish fill the water with sperm and eggs, and predators arrive to take advantage of the bounty. Having read about the drama, Tony couldn’t understand why there were so few photos of it – until he hit the water there for the first time, in 2012. The currents were unrelenting – ideal for eggs to be swept swiftly away but a struggle for him to keep up with the fast‐moving fish. Also, the light was low, and the water was clouded with sperm and eggs. That first attempt failed, but he has returned every year to try to capture the event.

Noticing that the spawning ran ‘like a chain reaction up and down the mass of fish’, his success finally came when he positioned himself so that the action came to him. Rewarded with a grandstand view, he was intrigued to see that the fish rapidly changed colour during mating from their standard red to a multitude of hues and patterns. Even their characteristic two white spots, close to the dorsal fin on their back, seemed to fade and reappear. On this occasion, with perfect anticipation, he managed to capture a dynamic arc of spawning fish amid clouds of eggs in the oblique morning light. Still obsessed by the dynamics and magnitude of this natural wonder, he will be returning to Palau next April to witness once again the spectacular snapper party.

8. Eviction attempt

Winner: Birds

These Indian rose-ringed parakeets were not happy. They had returned to their roosting and nesting hole high up in a tree in India’s Keoladeo National Park (also known as Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary) to find that a Bengal monitor lizard had taken up residence. Photo by Ganesh H Shankar.

 
The birds immediately set about trying to evict the squatter. They bit the monitor lizard’s tail, hanging on for a couple of seconds at a time, until it retreated into the hole. They would then harass it when it tried to come out to bask. This went on for two days. But the action only lasted a couple of seconds at a time and was fast-moving. The branch was also high up, and Ganesh had to shoot against the light. Eventually the parakeets gave up and left, presumably to try to find another place to rear their young.

These Indian birds are highly adaptable, and escaped captive parakeets have founded populations in many countries. In Europe, where they are known as ring-necked parakeets, they are accused of competing for nest holes with some native species, such as nuthatches, and even bats, but in turn, other birds such as starlings are quite capable of evicting the parakeets from their nest holes.

10. Wind composition

Winner: Plants and Fungi

The hazel tree was near Valter’s home in northern Italy, and to create the dark background, he positioned himself to backlight the flowers. Photo by Valter Binotto.

 
With every gust of wind, showers of pollen were released, lit up by the winter sunshine. Hazel has both male and female flowers on the same tree, though the pollen must be transferred between trees for fertilization. Each catkin comprises an average of 240 male flowers, while the female flower is a small bud-like structure with a red-tufted stigma. The pollen-producing catkins open early in the year, before the leaves are out, and release huge amounts of pollen to be carried away by the wind.

And now recent research suggests that bees may also play a role. The catkins are an important source of pollen for early bees and have a bee‐friendly structure, while the red colour of the female flowers may entice insects to land on them. ‘The hardest part was capturing the female flowers motionless while the catkins were moving,’ explains Valter. ‘I searched for flowers on a short branch that was more stable.’ Using a long exposure to capture the pollen’s flight and a reflector to highlight the catkins, he took many pictures before the wind finally delivered the composition he had in mind.

Summer time means it’s time to put away the crumble, and start eating panna cotta. Finally.

 
This dish pairs beautifully with the Earthbound Organic Cabernet Sauvignon, which (according to our tasters) is concentrated and deep, with aromas of fruitcake and spice. If you’d like find out more about our country’s tastiest organic and earth-friendly wines, you’ll love the Nedbank Green Wine Guide. It’s a pocket-sized guide showcasing 11 award-winning wine farms, as well as three routes to take you there, and it comes free with our November issue!

Blackcurrant panna cotta with pansy jelly

recipe by Shannon Smuts of Pure Good Food

Ingredients

• 4 leaves gelatin
• 150g frozen or fresh blackcurrants
• 10 pansy petals
• 200ml milk
• 200ml pouring cream
• 100g plain dark chocolate
• 2 tablespoons golden syrup
• 1 tablespoon butter
• mini meringues, for serving

Cooking method

1. Soak the gelatine leaves in a bowl of cold water until soft.
2. In a saucepan, heat the blackcurrants in 200ml water until soft, and leave to simmer for about 10 minutes to release the flavour.
3. Roughly chop the petals into pieces and place in a bowl.
4. Add the softened gelatine to the cooked blackcurrants and stir until dissolved.
5. Drain 100ml of the liquid out of the saucepan and add to the petals. Stir, then place in the fridge to set.
6. Add the milk and cream to the remaining blackcurrant liquid and bring to a simmer but do not boil.
7. Remove from the heat and pour mixture into moulds. Leave to cool to room temperature, then place in the fridge for 6 – 8 hours or overnight.
8. Before serving, combine the chocolate, syrup and butter in a saucepan and bring to a simmer, stirring often until the chocolate has melted.
9. To serve, dip moulds quickly in warm water to loosen and turn the panna cotta out onto plates. Roughly mix the pansy jelly mixture and spoon onto the plates.

In this inside guide, Niq Mhlongo, a writer born and bred in Soweto, takes us through his hometown and insists that people who only go to Vilakazi Street and think they know Soweto, are like people who only read the blurb of a novel and think they know the whole story. Photos by Teagan Cunniffe.

Catch Niq Mhlongo at the at Abantu Book Festival hosted in Soweto this December.

The 49 steps of the Oppenheimer Tower in Central Jabavu lead the three of us to the allure of Soweto township. It’s an easy, free-of-charge, winding climb for Lebo, Marhule and I, and the promise of the 180-degree view of Soweto outweighs the sad history of apartheid that residents endured in the past.

LEFT: Lebo Sello, the guide, in the garden at the bottom of the Oppenheimer Tower. RIGHT: The view from the top of the Oppenheimer tower.

This morning our visit coincides with the 40th anniversary of 16 June 1976, and Lebo Sello is our guide from Credo Mutwa Cultural Village where the tower is. Youth Day public holiday is often a big celebration in Soweto; young and old people wear school uniforms to commemorate the student uprising. But today seems like any ordinary day, except that President Zuma will be speaking at nearby Orlando Stadium at noon. Mputhi Street and the Morris Isaacson High School are fairly quiet, except for the hawkers who are peddling popular house music CDs and loose cigarettes to motorists.

It’s not the first time I climb these stairs, but for my childhood friend Marhule it is. We are both from Chiawelo, which is seven minutes’ drive from here. Halfway up, Lebo pauses with one hand on the rail. He turns his head and smiles down at us, pointing at a nest. ‘That’s the baby red-eye dove. Please mind your steps. Her mother is out.’ I’m tempted to ask a question about the baby dove, but I keep quiet as Lebo continues to tell us his version of Soweto history. ‘Just like the USA consists of 50 states, Soweto used to have 49 sections before the new areas like Bram Fischer and Glen Ridge were born.’

LEFT: Fish and chips store by the road. RIGHT: Cooking street food.

I was not aware that the steps we’re climbing represent the 49 different sections of Soweto, but I nod as if this is not news to me. Upon landing on the open 49th step, the cold morning air seems to hold the subtle smell of the township – a combination of coal stoves, car exhausts, vetkoeks, atchar, Vienna and Russian sausages. Overhead, scattered clouds are wheeling up into the sky. The sound and sight of the passenger train far below take me down memory lane, when Marhule and I were growing up.

I’m reminded of the swimming pool we used to visit in Senaoane in the mid-1980s. At that time, each section of Soweto was divided along ethnic lines. Since the swimming pool was in Senaoane, it meant that people from other areas – like Vendas and Shangaans from Chiawelo – were bullied. There is one incident I can still remember as clearly as if it were a reel of cinema film. While we were swimming, some boys took our clothes and walked away. We couldn’t go home naked, so we improvised by making plastic bags our makeshift clothes.

A view of the popular Vilakazi Street.

That was then. It’s understandable why in the past, the name Soweto conjured up images of squalor, squatter camps, dusty roads, black smoke, crime, meanness, poverty, apartheid and ugliness. Soweto has changed, I think as I look at the red structure of the recently built Soweto Theatre nearby. The township commands a new level of respect, benefiting from its ubuntu tendencies that visitors revere. Not so long ago, the Jabulani Amphitheatre next to the theatre was the main attraction in Soweto. Today, there are so many things to do other than going to the pool in Senaoane or waiting for the annual Godfrey Moloi Goodwill Games – a soccer tournament – in Mapetla. There are places like the Orlando Towers, Hector Pieterson Memorial, June 16 Soweto Student Trail, Tutu’s House, Mandela’s House, Freedom Square, and so on.

The Hector Pieterson Memorial.

We descend the steps and Lebo leads us to the Credo Mutwa Cultural Village. Here we learn about African traditional systems and practices as envisaged by the creator of the village and sculpture garden, ubaba Credo Mutwa, author of the classic Indaba, My Children and a High Sanusi (a top-level sangoma). The experience of being in the village within the township brings peace to my soul, and I feel completely healed – as if I was wounded before. We give Lebo a R50 tip for the great Soweto lesson before joining Mputhi Street to the far west end of Soweto. e’SociaLink is a new place that has just opened along the R558.

It is popular for its reasonable prices, open space, cleanliness, huge parking lot and great music. We are greeted by the aroma of grilling meat that comes wafting out of the braai place, and a DJ playing great old R&B songs. It’s already two in the afternoon and we are hungry and thirsty. We buy six chicken wings and lamb chops for R120, which includes the pap and chakalaka. We also buy six Long Tom cans of Castle Lite for R120, which come in an ice bucket.

RIGHT: At the e’ SociaLink RIGHT: Braai stands are ubiquitous in the township’s streets.

The following morning Marhule and I decide to explore other parts of Soweto, and start with Chaf-Pozi in Orlando East. It is noon, but already the place is packed. Every now and then buses arrive with tourists who take pictures of the colourful cooling towers and bungee jumpers. Up on top of the 33-storey towers, a few people are enjoying the panoramic views of Soweto. About five young white women are climbing the towers using ropes, and it seems they’re competing as people are cheering them on. Huge speakers blast loud house while some people dance on the lawn. There is a great aroma by the braai stand at the entrance, and some quad-bikers are making a grand entry outside at the parking lot. We buy two Castle Lite dumpies (R20 each) at the bar, and soon our eyes are searching the crowded scene for familiar faces.

Our next stop is Ubuntu Kraal in Orlando West, where the launch yesterday of a new beer called 76 Jameson coincided with the June 16 celebrations. This is the home of Soweto Gold Beer, which comes in six variations – Apple Ale, Cherry, Gogo’s Ginger, Orlando Stout, the 76 Jameson and Superior Lager, which was my favourite (they’re all good, but some tasted more like cider to me).

Street art in Soweto.

Our last stop is Sakhumzi Restaurant in Vilakazi Street, the busy, touristy part of Soweto. Besides the appetising buffet, Sakhumzi has great live traditional shows (Ladysmith Black Mambazo has performed here), and we are entertained until about 10 in the evening. Just like in the past, the present tales of Soweto are likely to draw people like a magnet. To me Soweto is like that beautifully written novel with a great plot sitting on your bookshelf, waiting to be read and enjoyed. Those who have walked its exotic streets and seen new or different things will tell you how modern and sophisticated this place is. As a Sowetan, I feel that those people who only go to Vilakazi Street and think they’ve explored the place are like those who only read the blurb of a novel and think they know the whole story.

Plan your trip

Getting there

The distance from Johannesburg CBD and Soweto is roughly 30 kilometres. The easiest way is to take the M1 South until you off-ramp at the Soweto Highway. Drive until the circle into Klipspruit Valley Road, where you turn left. This leads to Kumalo Main Road (for Hector Pietersen Memorial). From there you can head for Vilakazi Street (Mandela and Tutu Houses), or Mtipa Street, taking a left into Senokoanyana Street (for Ubuntu Kraal).

Need to know

Most parts of Soweto are safe and security officers patrol parking lots. You do not have to carry large amounts of cash on you as most places have speed points for transactions. On the last Thursday of every month Shova Lifestyle hosts a night market with music, food and art along Vilakazi Street. 0736353678, find them on Facebook.

Do this

Taste Soweto Gold. The local home brew, at Ubuntu Kraal. For R30 you can taste all six variations and the price includes a brewery tour. The beers make great souvenirs to take home. 0814671668, sowetogold.co.za

Do the Soweto Heritage Trail. Mlungisi Shabalala can customise a tour for you ‒ on foot, electric bikes or tuk-tuk. Experiences include making traditional beer, playing street soccer, interacting with the community and quad-biking. From R150 pp. 0727279542, siyayenzalento.co.za

Visit the Credo Mutwa Cultural Village. You’ll be immersed in the history of the people of Africa, their culture, art, folklore and architecture. For a guided tour call Lebo Sello on 078-810- 2664; this includes going to the top of the Oppenheimer Tower for fantastic views of Soweto. Entry is free and it’s open from 6am ‒ 6pm. 0110852500, gauteng.net

Leap off the Orlando Towers
The 100-metre bungee costs R550 pp, the swing R450, the Scad freefall (inside the tower) R400 and R450 to abseil. Going up to see the view is R80. 0716744343, orlandotowers.co.za

Stay here

The Soweto Hotel situated on Freedom Square in Kliptown is upmarket but pricey. From R1 485 for two sharing B&B or R1 310 for a single. 0115277300, waltersisulusquare.co.za

Zizwe Guesthouse, walking distance from Vilakazi Street, is a two-unit house that is great for a group of four to book out the whole place. It has off-street parking and a friendly, hands-on owner. R500 per double room. 0119368983, visitsoweto.co.za

VhaVenda Hills B&B is also close to Vilakazi Street. I’d recommend the upstairs rooms with shared lounge and kitchen. The hosts are very friendly and there is safe parking. From R425 pp. 0119364275, visitsoweto.co.za

Eat here

Sakhumzi’s eat-as-much-as-you- like buffet (R150 pp) in Vilakazi Street is the best option for vegetarians and meat lovers ‒ orlando towers chaf-pozi choices include oxtail, mala mogodu (tripe), spinach and pumpkin. The restaurant has a range of wines and cocktails. 0115361379, sakhumzi.co.za

Chaf-Pozi, at Orlando Towers, has a buy-and-braai facility. Choose anything from chicken wings to lamb chops and have it expertly cooked for you. 0793943946, chafpozi.co.za

e’SociaLink is a vibrant new shisa nyama and car wash with an impressively decorated bar. It offers great meals and good nightlife. 0792622425, visit their Facebook.

Kasi Beer Garden at Ubuntu Kraal is the place to tuck into lamb chops and chips (R90) or a platter of chicken wings, short ribs, boerewors and fries to share (R250). 0747380355, sowetogold.co.za

There are currents of change swirling through this multicultural, balmy city. With urban regeneration projects everywhere, and Durbanite entrepreneurs taking the front seat on how they want their city to look, there’s an exciting swell of shared spaces and new faces. I visited my old home town to see how it’s changed. Here’s why you should too.

Brandpreneur Matimba Ngwenya outside 8MS’ ever-changing graffiti walls.

 
I’m standing on the fourth floor of Ambassador House, looking out at the city of Durban spread before me. Taxis brush paths with the perpendicular lines of shadows, attached to the feet of people scurrying about their day. Reece Easthorpe, the community manager from Propertuity, looks out with a visionary glint in his eye.

‘Everything the light touches is our kingdom,’ he says.

Okay, he didn’t actually say that, but that’s what the scene feels like as we breathe in the view. 8 Morrison Street is the initiative of Propertuity, the brainchild behind the vibey Maboneng Precinct in Johannesburg. Turning its attention to Durban, the company bought out four-and-a-half city blocks in
a rough triangle shape, stretching from 8 Morrison Street to the International Convention Centre to Ambassador House.

It’s called Rivertown Triangle. The vision is to have a walking precinct just outside the heart of Durban, to get people back into the city space and to build a truly mixed-use living environment within the community.

‘With apartheid, everyone was kept separate,’ Reece says (for real, this time). ‘We want to create a shared space again, a place where people can interact together on common ground.’

The vision is good, but it’s not theirs alone. On a much smaller scale, Station Drive Precinct is becoming the trend spot of Durban city, with creative businesses sharing the warehouse-like space. Craft beers and coffee, leatherwork, markets and music are all available during the week, but the businesses come alive on the first Thursday of the month, and every Sunday for the popular The Morning Trade market. As opposed to the capital-down investment of Morrison Street, Station Drive is a business-up approach, driven by heavily invested individuals creating their own change in the city.

Morning Trade is a perfect spot for some relaxed early-morning coffee and browsing.

 
The space is good, but it’s not the first. Durban has a shared space already, an area where people of all creeds laugh and buy and enjoy together. It’s the beachfront promenade, and it’s where you will find everyone.

After picking up bicycles from The Bike & Bean, my partner and I cycle towards the harbour, past the beige beaches with fishermen dotted sparsely along piers, past the stadium, where people walk and cycle and drink early-morning coffee, past the skatepark painted with colourful graffiti, past North Beach with its landmark Wimpy. We see joggers, surfers, exercise sessions, Shembe church members offering up prayer and dogs of all sizes on leads attached to owners of all shades. There’s a mannequin dressed in traditional furs and a vendor selling pineapple slices dipped in spices.

On the left, sunset is the perfect time to take a stroll along the promenade; on the right, reggae music at Wahooz Cafe is enjoyed by all.

 
We make our way to Wahooz for sundowners. It’s a Sunday tradition, drinking cocktails and listening to Durban reggae band The Meditators. Everyone is singing along to Bob Marley and the last of the day’s light is catching the swaying palms above the unmarked dance floor. I spot a man clad all in white, with a turban wrapped around his head and wearing reflective aviator glasses. Intrigued, I make my way over.

His name is Yira, and he’s a Rastafarian living up the North Coast.

‘This man changed my life,’ says Wayne, the man next to him. ‘He bought a Land Rover from me. Before I met him, I used to take things to heart – I got angry at every small thing.’ Yira smiles gently beneath his crown of dreadlocks, explaining that he would never have bought the Land Rover from Wayne if the transaction had been based purely on finances.

‘It’s more than that. It has to be about a meaningful connection.’ We leave them, two completely different men from completely different worlds, dancing together to the music and setting sun.

The next morning, I visited Firebird Coffee Works at 8 Morrison Street (also known as 8MS) and chatted to Trevor Molphy. He is one of four people who runs Firebird, named after the phoenix rising from the ashes. 8MS is hip, with small-business pods and graffiti and kids dressed in urban street fashion showing a face Durban has never really been known for before.

Trevor from Firebird Coffee; on the right, Reese Easthorpe, retail curator at 8 Morrison Street.

 
‘My parents never expected me to become a barista,’ Trevor says. ‘The concept of placing so much importance around coffee is foreign to them. But coffee means something different to me. It’s a time for people to sit down together and talk, like you and I are doing right now. It’s creating the space for connection. I love how coffee brings people together.’

I ask him about the urban regeneration Durban is going through, and the plans for Rivertown Triangle.

‘The city is changing,’ Trevor says. ‘But for me, the biggest area of development is going to happen in the townships. People see all these things happening in the city – the craft beers and lifestyle. Why should they have to get in a taxi and travel into the city to get it? Why can’t they get it right where they live, in the townships? I run a business selling gourmet burgers in KwaMashu. It was started by Vuyani Ndlovu and has only been open for a couple of months, but it does well – you should see the queues on the weekends! People appreciate having good food as an option right on their doorstep. It’s just the start.’

Ekasi Drive-Thru, serving gourmet food in Kwa-Mashu, is a must-visit.

 
There is a lot to do in Durban nowadays. The city is indeed changing, but at the slow, late-adopter pace that characterises it. We drove to the harbour that evening, picking our way slowly along the sandbar next to the yacht club to watch the city ease into night. We pulled to a stop between two cars and switched off the engine.

A whistling teenager came up to us and waved a bag of sand prawns in our direction. Next to us a father and his two children were fishing. Both children were young; the daughter was dressed in fluffy onesie pyjamas and the son was barely half the length of the fishing rod he was dangling determinedly into the shallows. His father talked quietly to him, showing him where Mecca was and explaining where the sun rises and sets. They put down the rods and walked back to the car, taking out a small rug and laying it on the ground. Kneeling, the father and son started praying, soft words merging with the sounds of lapping water.

The lights of the city flickered across the bay behind them. I was filled with spreading warmth, happy to witness to this quiet moment against the city’s backdrop.

There are many plans for Durban, with areas of rejuvenation and conventional ideas being challenged. It’s exciting to see where we go, and to hear the passion behind voices when there’s talk of the future. My old home is slower than Johannesburg and less pretty than Cape Town, but it’s authentic – a city of diverse people unwittingly sharing in each other’s lives.

This is the fabric of Durban, and that’ll be a constant no matter how it develops.

Plan your trip to Durban

Getting to Durban
Durban is about an hour’s flight from Joburg (R1400 return) and about a two hours from Cape Town (R1600 return), both with FlySafair. For those taking the road, it’s 560 kilometres from Johannesburg along the N3. That’s about six hours of driving time – and you’ll fork out R341 in toll fees along the way.
flysafair.co.za

Need to know
The weather is mild to hot throughout the seasons. If you want to learn to surf, there’s no better place to do so than in these warm waters. Durban’s all about keeping it casual – ditch the heels and fancy watch in favour of slops and a friendly greeting. Public transport is relatively limited, so its best to rent a car or use an Uber, and be mindful of petty theft throughout the city.

Things to do in Durban

Take a Street Scene tour. There are tours of varying lengths – I did the Super Scene full-day tour (R1 020 pp, discounts available for groups), which covers the Inanda Heritage Route and Durban city, including the Warwick Triangle area. The tour gives you an introduction to the culture and roots of our country’s history, much of which happened on Durban’s doorstep. It’s a must-do for visitors and Durbanites.
0313215079, streetscene.co.za

Go for an afternoon drink at Sidebar. This narrow bar neighbours the popular Spiga d’Oro and is an intimate space that encourages conversation with your neighbours. 0313039511, sidebar031.tumblr.com

Cycle along the promenade. It’s the best way to see the Durban beachfront. Tie it in with breakfast at The Bike & Bean or reggae sundowners at Wahooz. Hire a bike from The Bike & Bean from R40 per hour. 0827736870, bikebeandurban.com

Visit The Chairman, Durban’s hidden gem; red-carpet glam, jazz and a backdrop of derelict buildings – what could be better? Entrance is R150 per person. (Don’t panic – it automatically goes towards your bar tab.) 0783871408, thechairmanlive.com

Sample the local craft beer at S43. Super trendy with trestle tables and downlights that look like hops, it’s a chilled place to hang out with friends. 0313032747, thatbrewingco.co.za

Head to Station Drive for The Morning Trade market on a Sunday – it’s positively pumping. Wander through the shops at Station Drive Precinct, then head for food at The Plant or for gin and tonics up at Distillery 031, Durban’s first craft distillery. 0879414540, distillery031.com

Explore Ike’s Books and Collectables. This trove of historic, out-of-print books is fascinating to browse and is sure to quicken any collector’s pulse. 0313039214, ikesbooks.com

Visit 8 Morrison Street for streetwear, galleries and good coffee. Regular music events and markets are hosted – keep an eye on its website to stay up to date. 0624556067, 8ms.co.za

Where to stay in Durban

d’Urban Elephant is filled with items Howard Roberts and his late wife, Marleen, have collected over the years. The guests are just as interesting; with the university close by you will often find Russian cosmologists and research scientists around the breakfast table. From R650 per person sharing B&B. 0827722008, durbanelephant.co.za

The Concierge Boutique Bungalows is just off Florida Road, in a quiet courtyard. The quirky decor is fun and modern. From R595 pp sharing. 0313094434, the-concierge.co.za

Mythai Guest House has a leafy garden and abundance of water inspired by the owner’s frequent travels to Thailand. From R420 pp sharing B&B. 0313032035, mythaiguesthouse.com

Where to eat in Durban
Habesha Cafe offers Ethiopian and Eritrean cuisine. We loved their tibs (beef with rosemary, berbere and kibe) served with injera (traditional flatbread) for R65. Bring friends and share dishes. 0760462516, find them on Facebook.

On the left, Britannia Hotel’s curries are famous; on the right, Distillery 031 serves lunch as well as a selection of artisan spirits.

 
eKasi Drive-Thru in KwaMashu is a neat, white shipping container serving unpretentious, damn good and plentiful food. Choose the chicken wings for R20 or the saucy burger (including chips and salad) for R55. 0785275137, find them on Facebook.

Britannia Hotel, a well-established favourite among Durbanites, is in an old Victorian building and is the place to go for curries. I had my usual – the butter chicken curry for R69. 0313032266, hotelbrits.co.za

This story first appeared in the July 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our July issue is packed full of great winter holiday ideas. On shelves from 20 June.

If you walk in Mana Pools, Zimbabwe, you will be changed, they say. But like any sacred space, you must tread here with great respect, writes Scott Ramsay.

The bull elephant walked straight towards us, slowly moving through the canopy forest in Mana Pools National Park. His huge feet trod the earth gently, leaving a trail of dust illuminated by the late afternoon sun. My guide, Stretch Ferreira, whispered for us to sit on the ground. We’d been walking on the floodplain that afternoon and Stretch – a professional guide of 30 years in Mana – had hoped to find this bull. They’d known each other their whole adult lives. And Stretch wanted us to meet him.

Now Earth’s largest land animal stopped just before us, within touching distance, his long tusks within a metre of our faces. I looked up slowly at one of his large eyes and for some reason averted my gaze quickly. My heart pounded inside my chest. It’s a strange, unique sensation: being enthralled and terrified at the same time.

LEFT: Stretch Ferreira and some guests pay their respects to a king in Mana. RIGHT: Elephant bull browsing on an albida tree.

 
My hands were shaking, so I did my best to take a few photographs. With the tip of his trunk the elephant scooped up some fallen seedpods that had dropped from the albida trees and crunched them between his molars. Psychologists talk of a state of flow. These are moments when your mind becomes entirely absorbed in an activity so that you forget yourself – and everything else. There’s a heightened sense of awareness of the here and now. Nothing else matters other than what’s in front of you. Time seems to stand still, yet it also speeds by. This was such a moment. After a while, I’m not sure how long, the elephant shook his trunk slightly, flapped his ears a few times to keep cool and then walked off to browse on a nearby tree.

Mana’s magic

Despite a tragic increase in poaching, elephants still roam across many protected wild areas of the continent. But while Serengeti, Chobe, Kruger and Gonarezhou all boast impressive elephant territories, Mana could be their headquarters, the heart of their dwindling empire of Africa. The floodplains on the southern bank of the middle Zambezi Valley are unique in their ecology, beauty and atmosphere. This achingly photogenic place is made for the king of Africa’s creatures. And for visitors – especially wilderness lovers – it is one of the finest parks on the continent.

‘There is a sense of remoteness and extreme isolation, a feeling that this is one of the last true wildernesses, unknown and unexplored,’ wrote Dick Pitman, a long-time admirer of Mana, in his book Wild Places of Zimbabwe. ‘It is almost entirely unmodified. Down here, the wilderness still rules and man must still obey it to survive.’ Regular visitors to Mana speak of it in reverential, hushed tones usually reserved for spiritual matters. Walking here is not simply a holiday – it’s a wilderness pilgrimage. If you go, they say, you will be changed. I have been, several times, and I have changed. Spending time in any wilderness recalibrates my perspective on life. But Mana always seems to open up new, uncharted pathways into my soul. It is the only national park with big game in Africa where anyone can still walk freely, either unescorted or with a guide or national parks ranger.

Later that evening we ate dinner and drank cold Zambezi lagers at Stretch’s tented camp on the banks of the river. Stretch is like an old bull elephant himself: broad, tall, lumbering, sometimes aloof but always clearly in charge of his territory. That evening, leaning back in his chair and scratching his ginger beard now and again, he spoke of those special moments that stand tall in his memory.

‘I was once sitting under an albida tree with a female guest, watching an old elephant bull who I had known for 20 years. He was slowly feeding towards us and so I told my guest to sit quietly next to me. ‘The bull walked to within a few feet of us. He then gently picked up his foot and slowly moved my guest aside to eat the pods she was sitting on. She wasn’t hurt at all. Just had a slight abrasion on her arm, from the rough skin on the elephant’s foot. My guest remained calm, fortunately. For both of us it was a life-changing moment. There was immense trust between man and elephant.’

Then there was the time that Stretch witnessed an elephant giving birth to its baby, right next to him. The calf dropped to the ground in its fetal sac, which the mother then removed with its trunk. But the baby was still not breathing freely, so the mom then kicked dust into the air. ‘The little elephant then promptly sneezed,’ said Stretch. ‘Perhaps the sneezing cleared the mucus from its nasal passages so that it could breathe properly?’

Mana is also famous for its lion sightings. Stretch once watched a group of six lionesses battling to take down an adult female buffalo, only to give up eventually, leaving the buffalo alone. The pride male then arrived. ‘With one swipe of his paw, he managed to bring this big buffalo down on his own, something six lionesses couldn’t do,’ Stretch explained. ‘That kill would have fed the whole pride. This is why we should continue to vigorously oppose the hunting of lions. Without them the apex of the food chain will be destroyed and the entire ecosystem will be affected.’

In Mana, lions are mostly used to groups of walking humans, but they should only be approached in the presence of an official guide or parks ranger.

Walking ethics

Witnessing such moments is rare while walking in Africa. Usually, wildlife will move away as soon as a human approaches on foot. Thousands of years of hunting have ingrained in the creatures a healthy distrust of people. However, in Mana, animals are so used to seeing Homo sapiens walking that the wildlife is mostly unperturbed. But in recent years, Mana’s legendary wildlife and walking terrain have begun to draw more and more visitors, some of them different from the traditional wilderness aficionado.

‘Mana was becoming a free-for-all,’ explained Richard Maasdorp, the director of The Zambezi Society, a non-profit conservation organisation with decades of involvement at Mana Pools. ‘There were big groups of unescorted walkers, mostly photographic groups. They were using radios, tracking animals, and would often surround the animals, especially wild dogs, for long periods of time. They’d use their 4x4s to drive off the designated tracks, and generally not show any respect.’

The parks authority took the decision to ban all unescorted walking, to the disappointment of many of Mana’s longtime devotees. The bad behaviour of a few had spoilt it for the majority of people who do respect wildlife. The Zambezi Society sponsored a research survey that showed that most visitors wanted unescorted walking reintroduced. After several months of negotiating with Zimbabwe Parks & Wildlife Management Society, the ban on walking was lifted. But, Richard explained, it could be reinstated if visitor behaviour doesn’t improve dramatically.

‘There is a general attitude among South African visitors, in particular, that they can do what they want,’ said Richard. ‘Of the walkers who don’t respect wildlife, about 80 percent of them are South African. If the unethical behaviour continues, then walking could be banned again. But the parks authority also has the option of banning South Africans from unescorted walking.’

A walk with ranger Tendai Sanyamahwe from Nyamepi into the floodplains of Mana ranks as one of my best experiences.

 
On another visit to Mana, I hired park ranger Tendai Sanyamahwe to guide me on my walks. Few guides can match Tendai’s enthusiasm for and commitment to the protection of Mana. The 49-year-old with a hardened gaze and ready smile works mostly on anti-poaching patrols, spending weeks at a time criss-crossing the 2100-square-kilometre national park. Early one morning, within 15 minutes of walking from Nyamepi along the floodplain, Tendai raised his hand and motioned for us to kneel down. He pointed into the shadows of a thick bush, about 40 metres away.

A lioness’ eyes locked on to us. Then the cubs. Three of them, playing nearby. The mom called them and they came running back to her, bouncing on top of her broad back, pulling her ears with their sharp little teeth, oblivious to our presence. We sat and watched their antics for a while, then backed away. We strolled through the shaded canopy albida forest and admired a small breeding herd of elephants with babies. Next up was a statuesque eland bull, defiant and proud like a Michelangelo sculpture. Behind him several old buffalo bulls raised their nostrils at us, grumpy as ever, looking in desperate need of a strong cup of coffee. Tendai then guided us to Long Pool, one of Mana’s four big inland pans that hold water during the dry season. We sat on the high bank and watched a large pod of hippos grunting and groaning. Cohorts of crocodiles lay basking in the first rays of sun. And always the baboons – the jesters of Mana – flinging themselves around the trees above us.

Pools of summer water remain throughout Mana’s dry season, giving hippos respite from the heat.

The hinterland

Mana’s floodplain extends 35 kilometres along the Zambezi River and five kilometres inland. It offers the most popular, accessible walking, but much of the park is set away from the Zambezi. Here vast mopane woodland extends south towards the high escarpment mountains in the south. It is a very different walking experience: hot, dry and rugged, but arguably wilder than the shaded, manicured atmosphere of the albida forests on the floodplain. But, accompanied by a guide or ranger, these areas are ultimately as rewarding. Often the water draws amazing encounters with wildlife in the dry season. A well-known waterhole is Chitake Springs in the south of the park, a legendary area with few campsites. In the dry season, it draws herds of buffalo and several attendant lion prides.

Guide Nic Polenakis has worked regularly in Mana since 1995 and remembers one particularly memorable walk nearby. ‘I was walking with guests along a deep gulley and happened to look up into one of the big trees. My heart skipped a beat because a few metres above us was a huge male lion perched on a big branch. He was watching us, very relaxed. We moved back a bit and watched the big boy dangling in the tree.’

There are many other pans too, hidden away, only known to the experienced guides. ‘I once got permission to walk at night with guests to a remote pan,’ said John Stevens, who has worked as a guide in Mana since 1986, when black rhino still roamed before poachers wiped them out. ‘We found a pan with water and sat and waited on one of the termite mounds. As it got dark, the first black rhino arrived and wandered straight into the water to drink and cool off. He seemed very relaxed, so I mimicked the call of a black rhino. He came slowly up to us, right to the base of the termite mound, moving his head side to side right in front of us. Then he walked back to the pan, rolling in the mud.

‘Three buffalo bulls arrived and confronted the rhino. It was buffalo versus rhino! The full moon was silhouetting them. Two buffalo backed off, except one of them, which dropped its head right next to the rhino’s horn. ‘I was expecting an almighty confrontation, but instead the rhino placed his horn on the boss of the buffalo and they started gently scratching each other!’

Water hyacinth may be pretty, but they are invasive plants from South America that threaten the surrounding ecology.

 
While poaching in Mana is not as severe as in some other wild areas in Africa, the killing is increasing. This makes the experience of walking in Mana even more poignant. This is a true wildlife paradise on the edge of survival. Every animal and every tree seems extra precious when viewed in the context of the general destruction of Africa’s natural world. ‘It’s a huge privilege to walk here, in one of Africa’s finest remaining wild places,’ Richard emphasised. ‘We must never take it for granted.’ On our last evening, camping on the edge of the Zambezi, a bull elephant walked straight up to our fire. My friend and I stayed put, not moving from our chairs. For a minute or so, the bull sniffed us with his trunk, within centimetres of our bodies. I could see his toenails clearly, illuminated in the firelight. Another moment of flow, when time seems to stand still.

Getting here

From Harare, drive north on the A1 tar road through Lions Den (S17°15.915’ E30°01.051’) where there is a great roadside restaurant with coffee and excellent bacon and egg toasted sandwiches. Continue to Karoi (S16°49.064’ E29°41.015’) and buy extra supplies or fill up with fuel, as that’s the last main village before Mana. From there, drive to the parks office at Marongora (S16°13.387’ E29°09.683’) where all visitors need to sign in, before heading down the escarpment pass to the turn-off east to Mana (S16°11.337’ E29°09.684’). From there pass through Chimutsi (S16°11.324’ E29°09.724’) and Nyakasikana (S16°03.360’ E29°24.554’) gates and head north to the parks office at Nyamepi (S15°43.411’ E29°21.662’). The drive from Harare to the office takes seven to eight hours, with stops.

When to go

Mana is best during the dry season, from April to November. September to November can be very hot and humid, but this is also when wildlife concentrates on the floodplain and at pans.

Need to know

The daily conservation fee for visitors is R228 pp. There’s also a one-off vehicle fee of R152 for a five-day stay. A 4×4 is highly recommended. Walking unescorted in Mana is only for the very experienced. While the wild animals are more used to humans than those in most other national parks, it’s safer to hire and walk with a ranger. My favourite ranger was Tendai Sanyamahwe. Or stay at a private camp and walk with one of their guides, such as Stretch Ferreira (Goliath Safaris), Nic Polenakis (African Bush Camps) or John Stevens (John Stevens Safaris).

Walking in Mana

To walk unguided in Mana costs R152 per day for Zimbabweans, R228 per day for foreigners. To hire a guide costs R76 per person per hour for Zimbabweans, R152 per hour for foreigners. Maximum group size is six. For fewer than three people, the minimum cost is three multiplied by the per-person rate.

Stay here

Nyamepi Camp, with 30 sites, is a public campsite near the Mana Pools National Park reception office. There are ablution blocks and visitors can buy firewood at the office. My favourite sites are1and2,bothonthe river with shade, and set slightly away from the other sites. From R1 745 per night for six people. There are also several exclusive sites (up to 15) on the river that allow only two vehicles and up to 12 people per group. Mucheni, Ndungu, Gwaya, Trichilia and Nkupe are five of the favourites. Chitake Springs also has three campsites. From R2 609 per night for six people. +263772432148, zimparks.org

Some private companies offer exclusive luxury camping and lodges, with guided walks. Prices are higher (from R3034 per person per night), but are generally all-inclusive and the standard of guiding and accommodation is commensurate. These are some of the most experienced operators: Goliath Safaris +263-772-733-252, goliathsafaris.com; African Bush Camps (Kanga Camp) 0217010270, africanbushcamps.com; John Stevens Safaris +2634494313, johnstevenssafaris.com; Wilderness Safaris 0118071800, wilderness-safaris.com.

This story first appeared in the August 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our August issue features Mana Pools, great North West parks, and best trips for women. On shelves from 25 July.

I recently spent three weeks in Madagascar. The first six days was to cover an inaugural trail run that took place in the Diana Region – a remote area on the island’s north west coast. The race, called Racing Madagascar, saw runners traverse 150 kilometres of (incredibly) varied terrain over six days.

I rode most of it on a motorcycle (though I did run the second-to-last day – 28km, which felt a little like cheating) so that I could catch the frontrunners in action. Even with a Honda XR400 beneath me, it wasn’t easy to keep up. The area is wild, covered in thick coastal scrub, deep sand tracts, red laterite canyons, dense forests and very few roads. Added to that, the race was attended by some very quick individuals. Most celebrated of these was South African trail runner Thabang Madiba, who was a favourite to take the overall win. He didn’t have it all his own way. Lightning-quick locals, foreign terrain, searing heat and even some unexpected weather (we caught the tail end of a tropical cyclone on the fourth day) made for an interesting battle at the front.

The camaraderie, scenery and romance of running on one of the world’s most naturally spectacular islands made it one of the best Getaway assignments I’ve been on yet. You can read the full story in the November issue of Getaway magazine. In the meantime, here are some shots of the race, in no particular order.

Hot, tough, and rewarding – the chance to cover an inaugural six-day, 150-km trail race in Madagascar’s remote north was too good to pass up.

Thabang Madiba, one of South Africa’s top trail runners, rounds a secluded bay on the second-to-last day. He didn’t have it all it his own way against the locals.

LEFT Romauld Jaoriziki came flying down this dry riverbed so quickly I barely had time to grab my camera; RIGHT Even Thabang’s shoes look fast.

This was the view from the starting line of the inaugural Racing Madagascar trail race – above the Beamolana Waterfall in the Diana Region.

Thabang Madiba at the start line of the first day.

Pit loos and great views – this is what a self-sufficient stage race in one of the island’s most remote regions looks like. I call it bliss.

LEFT SA-runner Gavin Sacks navigating the rocky descent south of Crocodile Lake; RIGHT Thabang and his tongue – always out, always excited.

Antsiranana (formerly Diego Suarez), is an old port town on the northernmost tip of Madagascar. It’s where all the runners first met, and where the race ended. It’s beautiful, and quite mad.

We got a few hours of downtime at the end of the first day and some of us wandered into Anivorano to check out the market where I discovered something rather interesting about the chickens on Madagascar. You’ll have to read the full story to find out what that is though.

This laterite canyon, which forms the centrepiece of Tsingy Rouge national park, was created over centuries by erosion and chemical weathering.

Close-up, you can see how water and wind have carved what almost looks like stalagmites out of the red canyon.

A group shot of some of the blisteringly quick Malagasy athletes that took part. From left: Coach Alphonse, Morisse Morisse, Bakany Basile, Serge Veloson, Olga Razanamalala, Romauld Jaoriziki, Fadonio Joyesnicet, Jaquis Justin Rakiky, Housseny Nasser, Herve Djaonoro, Diomi Fabricin Mahatana.

This was our campsite at the end of the second day, on a plateau above the Irodo River. Getting here, by foot, bike or vehicle, was not easy. The green Renault TRM on the right, or ‘Kosovo’ (so named because they were used in the Kosovo war) got stuck and staff had to walk about five kilometres in searing heat to camp for help … and then go back to get it unstuck. Yikes.

Marcus Fong travelled the furthest to be at the race. He lives in Macau, had great pace and a seemingly endless supply of freeze-dried snacks in his bag. He was my running mate for half of the 28-km stage on Day 4 that I ran. Then he buggered off leaving me to run the rest shouting in agony at the empty heavens.

The view from our campsite at the end of Day 2. Below are rice fields fed by the Irodo River. It was the most beautiful setting of the race and many athletes, Thabang included, headed down to the river to wash their kit. Someone mentioned the word ‘crocodile’ on the way down though and that’s about the same time I made my way back up.

Every day, the camp facilities were built using dried palm fronds, fastened to treated poles with coarse rope. Support staff, numbering about 30, built everything from this functioning kitchen, a mess ‘hall’, medic’s tent, pit loos and showers, only to strike it down to transport to the checkpoint the next morning. It was quite incredible, and a lot of effort.

This is Englishman Steven Halton. He has cycled the length of Africa but his calves were no match for the for 42-km stage on Day 4. He looked somewhat less chuffed by the end.

Each day presented runners with new terrain: from red canyons to secluded beaches and even a baobab forest (not that common in northern Madagascar, I discovered).

LEFT Steve Halton coming into the finish line on Day 4, wrecked; RIGHT Luis Rene Menendez (Argentina) and Julio Stephane Billet (Madagascar) start the 20-km stage on Day 1.

Rice is Madagascar’s staple food (per capita, it’s actually one of the world’s top rice-consuming nations) and is grown in waterlogged fields fed by mud- and clay-built channels. The channels also double as walkways for farmers and locals to cross the fields. We passed many along the route.

RIGHT Day 4 of the race was a killer – 42 kilometres in 32-degree-plus heat. Though weary and shattered, some still felt compelled to do flick flacks on the beach. LEFT Jaquis Justin Rakiky didn’t though, (smart guy) and instead took a nap in my hammock.

TOP LEFT Music of all sorts (whether djembe drums, singing or crackling cellphones floating up gorgeous Malagasy lyrics) filled the air every afternoon; TOP RIGHT the giant day gecko has no eyelids – instead it just licks its eyeballs; BOTTOM Thabang rounding Crocodile Lake on the second day – so named because, you guessed it… it’s teeming with crocs.

On the final day of Racing Madagascar, trail runners were joined by wheelchair athletes (to whom proceeds gained from entry fees went) in a five-kilometre ceremonial shuffle from the outskirts of Diego Suarez to the town centre.

Despite there being just two South African runners in this year’s event (excluding me, of course. Running 28 out of 150 km makes you as much of a multi-day trail runner as sitting in the bath makes you a duck) it was great to follow the progress of my two compatriots, Gavin and Thabang. Hopefully next year there’ll be more. If you’re interested in the 2017 event, grab a copy of the November issue to find out a little more and check out racing-madagascar.com for the route and rules.

Read more from this story in the November 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our November issue features the next adventure frontier of Madagascar, affordable breaks in Hogsback, and what to do in the Cradle of Humankind.

As part of my job as Getaway‘s Photo Editor, I travel around South Africa and have photographed (and occasionally written about) a lot of locations. To put that into perspective, about 150 throughout the course of the year at a minimum.  There are a few that have stuck in my mind as having something special; a quality that I would love to return to and share with friends and family.

Here are my top picks of places that I have seen in 2016: ones that you should put onto your 2017 destination bucket-list. They’re spread out all over the country, and they run the full range from luxurious special-occasion lodges to simple cottages in the middle of nowhere.

My thanks to our thorough investigator, Pippa de Bruyn, who never fails to discover gems in her monthly On the Chart searches. (Click on her name to browse through some of the towns we’ve recently visited and thoroughly evaluated.)

Also read last year’s collection: 30 wonderful South African places you need to see in 2016.

Closest to Gauteng

Gauteng, I’d like you so much more if you didn’t shock me with static every time I visit. That aside, you really do have some scenic mountain and bush breaks in your vicinity.

1. Pezulu Tree House and Game Lodge

Location: Hoedspruit

Contact: pezulu.co.za

How could you not love watching wildlife from your tree house? This particular unit, Dream Tree House, has a bed which can be wheeled out onto the deck so you can sleep underneath the stars. What.

2. Buhala Lodge

Location: Malelane

Contact: buhala.co.za

I didn’t hear any South African accents amongst the guests during my stay here, but if you can afford to spend some time at this lodge I absolutely recommend it. It’s beautiful and luxuriant, and that dinner set up on the deck would be the perfect romantic splurge. I quickly nabbed it for myself, once this photo had been taken.

3. Buffalo Brooke

Location: Mjejane Game Reserve

Contact: buffalobrooke.co.za

A deck overlooking the Crocodile River, a pool, and a fireplace to lounge around, and herds of elephant who saunter down to the river to drink. This place is a large, comfortable base with fantastic access to the Kruger.

4. Ashbourne Lodge

Location: Hazyview

Contact: ashbournescape.co.za

With beautiful views and cool breezes, this tasteful spot sits high on a hill, overlooking indigenous bush filled with birdsong. A peaceful retreat with wonderful hosts.

Also read: Getaway’s top-rated accommodation in White River and Hazyview

5. Wooly Bugger Farm

Location: Dullstroom

Contact: woollybuggerfarm.co.za

Named after a fly-fishing lure, this fantastic farm is so far away from any real civilisation, 7kms outside of Tonteldoos. Here, you can walk with your dogs, fly-fish or 4×4 to view sites looking over expansive landscapes.

6. Bushglam

Location: Hoedspruit

Contact: bushglam.com

It gets HOT in Hoedspruit. Really, really hot. I once asked Google what the temperature was. Google said 37°. This was at night. So perhaps that’s why I loved this unexpected spot so much: if you have to be in Hoedspruit, then it’s an air-conned, spacious heaven with a braai and a pool that will leave you thankful down to your sweaty boots.

7. umVangati House

Location: Hoedspruit

Contact: umvangati.co.za

THIS VIEW. This view actually made me a little sad that I wasn’t sharing it with anyone. This is one of the most scenic spots I have been to in South Africa. I would love to go back.

8. Bushriver Lodge

Location: Hoedspruit

Contact: bushriver.co.za

The food here was so good, in an uncomplicated, just-off-the-fire way, that I even considered asking for the recipes. Bushriver Lodge overlooks the Olifants River. It has units close to the lodge as well as cottages set further away, which you can make into your own space with a group of friends.

Closest to Durban

My old hood! Fair warning, I am biased towards any place that lets me visit KZN for a while. That aside, I have been to incredible spots this year that I have visited again, with family, in my own capacity. That’s proof enough, right? I didn’t get to do much coastal travel in Durban this year but did manage to spend extensive time up in the Drakensberg, and discovered a new-found appreciation for the immense vistas found there.

Also read: the changing tides of Durban

9. Sungubala Eco Camp

Location: Northern Drakensberg

Contact: sungubala.co.za

There are more pre-set camping sites than you anticipate on this property, so privacy isn’t the focus. What is the draw-card though are the incredible views right from your doorstep. I stayed in a thatched self-catering cottage, but next time I’d actually like to go back and camp.

10. Greenfire Lodge

Location: Northern Drakensberg

Contact: drifters.co.za

Wow wow wow. Wow wow. I visited Greenfire with my mother (pictured) and the views really are special: especially at dawn and dusk. You wind your way up a 4×4 track to get the the base of a mountain range, where you can choose between hiking or relaxing your day away.

Also read: the 12 best escapes in the Northern Drakensberg

11. Tugela River Lodge

Location: Winterton

Contact: tugelariverlodge.co.za

That’s my dog, Tao! I had the most wonderful opportunity to travel with my folks and two dogs to Tugela River Lodge. You’re encouraged to bring your whole family, including hounds, and make use of the riverside and the bush walks.

12. Ingwe Cabin

Location: Northern Drakensberg/Olivieshoek Pass

Contact: ingwecabin.co.za

Ah, what a lovely place. This little wooden cabin is so quaint, filled with family memories created by uber-friendly owners, George and Suzette. A 4×4 track takes you through to your private mountainside, with gorgeous walks and wheeling vultures and trout dam and mini-golf course. You can take pets, too! 10/10 would recommend for those wanting a down-to-earth escape.

Also read: 16 mountain cabins for getting far, far away

13. Indigo Fields

Location: Nottingham Road

Contact: indigofields.co.za

After hearing decadent stories of the spa, meals and comfort, I finally got the chance to visit this ultimate spoil-me spot. Warm fireplaces fight the winter Midlands cold as you survey your dinner feast. It’s a family-run affair and the attention to each guest makes for a special visit.

14. Utshwayelo Lodge

Location: Kosi River mouth

Contact: kosimouth.co.za

This is about as close as you can be to Mozambique without crossing the border. Added bonuses: it’s part of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, you can do extensive 4×4 driving to hidden beaches and the snorkeling is fantastic. Pack your passport: if you have the time, a quick hop over the border takes you to Ponto do Ouro (manic during the festive season.)

15. Berghouse and Cottages

Location: Northern Drakensberg

Contact: berghouse.co.za

Vaughn and Chantal have created a wonderful atmosphere high up on the hill with uninhibited views across to the Amphitheatre mountain range. My favourite unit is popular Phezulu, but each has its own drawcards. Mini-horses (falabellas) run around in paddocks charming your socks off with each little canter.

16. Dumbe

Location: Northern Drakensberg/Oliviershoek Pass

Contact: dumbe.co.za

If you want romance, this is it. Views and privacy that know no limits. I can’t quite describe just how vast these views are: you’re going to have to see for yourself.

17. Virginia Farm

Location: Eston

Contact: virginiafarm.co.za

My aunt is an avid mountain biker, and she introduced me to this spot (out in the Dec 2016 issue). It’s set on a sugarcane farm on the side of a mountain and it’s beautiful. if you are a hiker, biker or birder, then I encourage you to visit (even if it’s just for the day.)

Closest to Cape Town

Cape Town is so spoilt with easy weekend access to the West Coast, the Cederberg and the Overberg. It’s like that glamorous older cousin who just has it all.

18. Strandloper Boutique Hotel

Location: Paternoster

Contact: strandloperocean.com

The best of everything important is at your disposal at the Strandloper: luxurious five-star accommodation, fynbos and wide, white beaches.

19. Gelukkie

Location: Paternoster

Contact: gelukkie.co.za

When visiting Paternoster, you wouldn’t necessarily think of staying anywhere but at the beach. This spot may change your mind: it certainly did for me. The wide outside swing bed was a huge hit.

20. Oystercatcher’s Haven

Location: Paternoster

Contact: oystercatchershaven.com

Okay, so this outside rooftop section is on my wish-list of romantic evenings. The rooftop has a fireplace, numerous candles and fairylights, and overlooks the ocean. It’s just divine. Down below, this pool holds one of my favourite memories: awaking to the sounds of splashing, I opened the curtain of my ground-floor room to see three otters having the time of their lives, happily running and diving in the moonlight. This went on for at least half an hour and is apparently a common occurrence.

Also read: 22 lovely spots in Paternoster for a summer break

21. The Old Kapteinskloof Guesthouse

Location: Piketberg

Contact: kapteinskloof.co.za

Writer Helen Walne recommended this cottage for a feature we put together on women traveling solo. It’s set in an orange grove with a small pool, and the old farm cottage itself makes you feel like you’ve gone back in time. The best part? Squeezing oranges in the morning for fresh juice.

22. Gifberg Holiday Farm

Location: Van Rhynsdorp

Contact: gifberg.co.za

The ideal place to go for walks and explore rivers and pools in a craggy mountainous landscape. The accommodation is basic, but has everything you need.

23. Porcupine Hills

Location: Botrivier

Contact: porcupinehills.co.za

I hardly got the chance to explore this lovely farm, set in a private nature reserve. What I saw was enough to convince me that it should be on the cards for next year.

24: Le Franschhoek Hotel and Spa

Location: Franschhoek

Contact: lefranschhoek.co.za

The conservancy-type dinner settings at this hotel really captured my imagination. The gardens are plentiful and sprawling, trees and flowers filling the courtyards and walkways between hotel units.

Also read: the best self-catering cottages in Franschhoek

25. Stanford Valley

Location: Stanford

Contact: stanfordvalley.co.za

What a lovely place to unwind. The restaurant is nearby and serves good food, the cottages are cosy and comfortable, and the walk up to the small dam is just the right amount of stroll with mountain views.

26. Elephant Hills

Location: Stanford

Contact: wheretostay.co.za

This large house is great for groups: it has direct access to the Klein River and a long verandah for you to swing your hammock on.

27. Bodhi Khaya

Location: Stanford

Contact: bodhi-khaya.co.za

Baboons and horses line the road on the way to Bhodi Khaya, a sustainable yoga, art and spiritual retreat. Surrounded by fynbos and mountains, you’ll soon forget about society in favour of being in the present.

Also read: 12 lovely places to stay in Stanford

28. The Beach Shack at Koenrust

Location: Vermaaklikheid

Contact: koensrust.co.za

Okay, so this place is sort-of like a beach shack. It won’t win any design awards – it’s a functional space – but the location is breathtaking. You have to walk down a steep mountain to get to this spot, and your reward is an entire section of coastline all to yourself.

29. Thorn and Feather

Location: Vermaaklikheid

Contact: thornandfeather.com

Vermaaklikheid really surprised me. I didn’t expect this area to be so rich in natural beauty, from flora to fauna. Thorn and Feather is a bohemian retreat made for a group, an artsy, shabby-chic find overlooking the river below.

30. The Boathouse at Oshoek River Farm

Location: Vermaaklikheid

Contact: capestay.co.za

Ramshackled and relaxed, this converted boat shed is incredible as a rustic hideaway for two, where you can wake up to views of the river and cook or read to candlelight.

Closest to Port Elizabeth

Eastern Cape, you have some truly wondrous landscapes. I particularly love the Baviaanskloof and Camdeboo area, both of which we will feature in 2017.

31. Coniston House

Location: Kenton-on-Sea

Contact: conistonhouse.co.za

Rob, the owner, took me for an early-morning walk along the coastline of Kenton-on-Sea. That really solidified the beauty of this area in my mind, and their self-catering flats, overlooking thick bush, are good options to explore this town from.

32: Sibuya Game reserve

Location: Kenton-on-Sea

Contact: sibuya.co.za

You drive to Sibuya by boat, up the Kariega estuary to arrive at either the Bush Camp or Forest Camp. Both are immersive stays, making the nearby town of Kenton-on-Sea feel hours away. The reserve itself is filled with rolling green hills and views, with the long, winding river making for great birding and sundowner cruises.

33. The Edge Mountain Retreat

Location: Hogsback

Contact: theedge-hogsback.co.za

Literally, on the edge. If you can bag these gorge-facing units, the steep drop-off is a few metres away. There is a walkway along the edge of the ravine with lookout points to stop at and take in the scene.

34. Hogsrock Falls

Location: Hogsback

Contact: hogsbackinfo.co.za

Silver Birch Cottage couldn’t be more dreamlike: a small, double-story wooden cottage with a tiny upstairs loft, an outside stoep with a braai overlooking the thick forest and short walks to nearby waterfalls. Magic.

Also read: Getaway’s guide to chasing waterfalls in Hogsback

35. Just for Two

Location: Baviaanskloof

Contact: gobaviaans.co.za

Such a cute cottage set in a wide valley fringed by tall mountains. The hike to the waterfall is one of the highlights of staying here: it’s one of my best hidden swimming locations in South Africa.

When most people think of sunny beach holidays, their minds jump to the Caribbean or Mediterranean. However, there are a fair share of island getaways in Africa where you can get that quintessential white sandy beach and palm tree photograph. The continent is home to some of the best beaches and island breaks in the world. It’s paradise, often at a fraction of the price.

Each of these African island getaways have warm oceans, deep histories, friendly people and enough things to do to keep you there for a little longer than you might have expected.

1. Zanzibar

Photo by Hege

Things to do in Zanzibar

Zanzibar is an island attraction that has a little bit of everything. Little has changed on the island over the past 200 years and Stone Town remains the cultural heart of Zanzibar. Spend time walking through the narrow and winding alleys while marveling at the grand Arab Houses and intricate door designs – more than 500 different examples of brass-studded, carved and wooden doors can be found here. Stone Town was recently declared a World Heritage Site by United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO).

Take about three hours out of your day to discover why Zanzibar is the Spice Island. Visit the Kizimbani Village where you can taste exotic fruits, spices and other rare plant species. One of the most interesting fruits on the tour is the jackfruit, which is the largest tree-borne fruit in the world and can weigh between one and 15 kilograms. Tours to the Spice Island can be arranged via your hotel. Getting around Zanzibar does not need to be expensive: find out how to travel around Zanzibar like a local.

Getting to Zanzibar

You can fly to Zanzibar from Johannesburg, South Africa, via Dar Es Salaam. You may need to book into an airport hotel overnight for the layover. Alternatively, find an all-inclusive travel package to Zanzibar to suit your budget.

When is the best time to go to Zanzibar?

Warm weather prevails all year round, although the rainy season is between March and May. It is a rarity that travellers will see overcast weather, as the rain usually happens overnight and in the early morning. Temperatures fall in the mid- to high-twenties for most of the year, with the hottest months being February and March.

 2. Mauritius

Photo by Selene Weijenberg

Things to do in Mauritius

Mauritius is more than just a beach. The Pamplemousses Botanical Garden is its most-visited attraction and some say it would take a week to cover the vast area of land, which is filled with more than 650 varieties of plant species. Not many people have that amount of time so make sure you see the famous baobabs, the palmier bouteille (type of palm tree that has a swollen trunk) and the giant water lilies.

Port Louis is the capital of Mauritius and offers a lot to see and do. The main highlight is China Town, which is bursting-at-the-seams with merchandise and trinkets to take home. If you are prone to going into a shopping frenzy, it might be best to have someone with you to make sure you do not clear the whole place out. Don’t forget to visit some of the best food markets in Mauritius, visit one of the best restaurants in Mauritius and try a selection of the 25 awesome things to eat and drink on the island.

Mauritius is concerned with its conservation and rightly so. There is an abundance of wildlife and landscape that needs to be kept intact. The Mauritian Wildlife Foundation is the only Non-Governmental Organisation (NGO) in Mauritius that makes its life mission the protection of the nation’s endangered plant and animal species.

Getting to Mauritius

Most flights depart from Johannesburg, South Africa. Alternatively, find an exclusive Mauritius travel package here.

When is the best time to go to Mauritius?

The island of Mauritius enjoys a relatively mild climate all year round but the best time to visit is between the months of April and June and between September and December.

3. Madagascar

Photo by Reibai 

Things to do in Madagascar

Ranomafana National Park (ranomafana means ‘hot water’ in the the local language – Malagasy) is one of the most visited places in Madagascar because of its convenient location, good access and great biodiversity and is home to over 12 species of lemur. It also forms part of the Rainforests of Atsinanana, which comprise six national parks spread along the eastern side of the island and together make up one of Africa’s top World Heritage Sites. The golden bamboo lemur was, in fact, the inspiration for the establishment of the park in 1991, a few years before Dr. Patricia Wright discovered that this species was near extinction.

Also read: what it’s like to run in one of the most remote regions of Madagascar

Alternatively, check out the Royal Hill of Ambohimanga. It’s a royal city and burial site made up of an ensemble of sacred places which have kept their spiritual character, evoking a strong sense of national identity. For the past 500 years it has remained as a pilgrimage site to which locals and people from around the world come to visit.

Getting to Madagascar

Flying into the capital city of Antananarivo is your best option.

When is the best time to go to Madagascar?

The best time to travel to Madagascar is between July and November. Travel is still recommended between April and June (and December), however you may encounter some rain. It is not recommended to go between January and March when their rainy season it at its highest.

4. Seychelles

Photo by Tiare Scott

Things to do in Seychelles

With a population of only 87 000, spread over a total of 115 islands which bear 15 types of mangoes, 17 types of banana and four types of coconut and have no monkeys, snakes or tigers, the Seychelles archipelago is the definition of paradise. One of its islands, Cousin Island (the first to become an internationally-owned reserve) is managed solely by local staff. Their objective is to save the population of the Seychelles warblers. It is also the most important breeding site for the hawksbill turtle. The reserve benefits local communities on the neighbouring Praslin Island through eco-tourism. The island is open to visitors five days a week.

If you are staying on the neighbouring island Praslin, arrange a trip to Cousin Island through your hotel or guesthouse. They will either sort out the details for you or act as an agent to find a local tour operator charter who can take you to the island. Visitors over the age of 12 will pay SR500. This is Seychelles’s local currency, the Seychellois Rupee (SR), which translates to R425 at time of publishing. Visit Cousin Island’s official website for all the details.

The St Anne National Marine Park is roughly twenty minutes from Seychelles’s main island, Mahé, by slow boat. Green and hawksbill turtles are often found due to the large amounts of sea grass attracting them. Bottleneck dolphins also frequent the marine park. Enjoy local food at some of the restaurants on St. Anne’s itself.

Getting to the Seychelles

You can fly direct to the Seychelles with Air Seychelles, who have just opened up a weekly flight from Durban in addition to their Joburg option. If you don’t mind stopovers, there are also very affordable flights available with Ethiopian Airlines and SAA.

When is the best time to go to the Seychelles?

Seychelles enjoys a year-long warm, tropical climate so there is no time of the year that is off-limits; although different times of the year may be better suited to particular interests. For sailing and snorkeling enthusiasts Seychelles is perfect all-year round. For activities such as fishing and diving it is recommended to go between October and April and March-May/September-November respectively.

5. Lamu Island, Kenya

Photo by Conservation Concepts

Things to do in Lamu Island, Kenya

Lamu Old Town is the oldest and best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa. The town is characterized by its architecture, which features inner courtyards and elaborately carved wooden doors. Since the nineteenth century Lamu Old Town has become a significant centre for the study of Islam and Swahili cultures. Lamu Old Town is a World Heritage Site and has been continuously occupied for the last 700 years, unlike other Swahili settlements.

The Lamu Museum is a part of The National Museums of Kenya, which helps to preserve and promote the cultural heritage of the island. It is a great place to learn about what makes Lamu Island tick. Focus on the historical side of this area as trinkets are said to be overpriced. It is best to get your memorabilia in town.

Getting to Lamu Island, Kenya

Lamu Island can only be reached by boat with daily flights coming to and from Mombasa and Malindi. The usual hosts of airlines have flights to both areas of Kenya, although Mombasa is the suggested route as flights are a lot cheaper and quicker. From Mombasa you need to fly to an airstrip on Manda, which is opposite the harbour of Lamu Island. Have a look at some of these awesome Kenyan adventures for inspiration.

When is the best time to go to Lamu Island, Kenya?

The best time to visit Lamu is between the months of November and March.

6. Reunion

Photo by seb-974 

Things to do in Reunion

Piton de la Fournaise is a volcano on the island of Reunion, which is recorded to be one of the world’s most active and productive volcanoes.  The volcano is a hot-spot, which means that the eruptions are short-lived but frequent (read: 10 things I learnt in Reunion.) This volcano is a major attraction on the island.

Visit the seafront park of La Barachois in Saint-Denis to catch the refreshing sea breeze. Lined by cannons facing out to sea, the park has a monument to the Reunion-born aviator Roland Garros who is leaning on a propeller. Read more about the festivals, architecture and incredibly strong rum here: five reasons why Reunion rocks.

Getting to Reunion

Flights from Cape Town go to Saint-Denis via Johannesburg. Even though Reunion is technically part of France, South Africans don’t require a visa when travelling there.

When is the best time to go to Reunion?

The best time to go to Reunion is between April and November. This is their winter season but the temperatures are a lot more moderate than in their summer.

7. Quirimbas Archipelago

Quirimba Island, Mozambique. Photo by Dylan Kotze.

Things to do in the Quirimbas

The Quirimbas National Park is renowned for its wildlife, gorgeous beaches and mangrove forests and that’s only one of the 27 islands that make up this chain in northern Mozambique. Ibo Island is known for its silver-smithing, and the archipelago as a whole is one of our top 10 sailing spots in Africa.

Getting to Quirimbas

You can fly to Pemba with LAM Mozambique Airlines, via Maputo. For a slighter higher fee, you can fly directly from Johannesburg to Pemba with SA Airlink.

When is the best time to go to the Quirimbas?

The climate is tropical: most people choose to travel in winter (May – November) as summer is extremely hot and humid. January and February are the rainy months, although tropical storms are less of a problem in the north than the south of Mozambique.

8. Djerba

Photo by alex and mac

Things to do in Djerba

It is said that every major town and city in Tunisia has a Medina and Djerba is no exception (A Medina is an old town where you can wander through narrow passages and covered alleys.) Learn to soak up the culture as you see the traditional architecture and shop at the souk (market-place).

The Lalla Hadhria Museum offers travellers the chance to learn about some Tunisian and Arab-Islamic history. This large museum has fifteen galleries, which are full of thousands of art pieces.

Getting to Djerba

It can be very expensive to fly to Djerba. British Airways goes from Cape Town to London, London to Luxembourg, and then from there to Djerba. Flights are not as frequent as the other island destinations, so it will take some forward-planning and is not for the faint-hearted.

When is the best time to go to Djerba?

The best time to visit Djerba is between May and October due to the weather.

9. Cape Verde Islands

Photo by IDS.photos 

Things to do in Cape Verde Islands

Find out about turtles in Cape Verde by visiting the Turtle SOS Guided Walks & Hatchery. During July-September, take guided walks to see a turtle coming ashore to lay her eggs. Then from August-December marvel at nature as baby turtles are being born in the hatchery. Travellers can adopt a baby sea turtle and receive a certificate and photographs of your baby turtle being born.

Blu Bar is unique in Cape Verde with its stylish, cool and classy atmosphere. It is a popular place to visit for locals and travellers alike to hear live music and soak up the island vibes. The Blu Bar is found in the centre of Santa Maria, next to the town square.

Getting to Cape Verde Islands

There seem to be only a few ways to get into Cape Verde. The most popular way is flying into Praia, and then travelling to the other islands from there.

When is the best time to go to Cape Verde Islands?

Cape Verde Islands has a steady tropical climate, which makes it warm enough to visit throughout the year. The busiest time to visit is between November and April.

10. Comoros Islands

Photo by Juergen Kurlvink

Things to do in Comoros Islands

For the more active at heart and adrenaline junkies there is an opportunity to hike Mount Karthala. From there, why not descend into the crater of this active volcano? It is claimed to be the largest active crater in the world. Some travellers make a trip of it and spend a night at the shelter provided.

Visit Mayotte, a French-administered town that is surrounded by coral reef and boasts excellent beaches and scuba-diving facilities, or you could explore the largest lagoon in the world by dugout canoe. Take a trip back in time in the town of Dzaoudzi, which is home to a forested islet named Pamanzi, a plunging waterfall named Sulu and the remains of an old mosque at Tsingoni.

Getting to Comoros Islands

Flights into Comoros generally go into Moroni, which is the largest city of Comoros. Flights land at the Moroni Prince Said Ibrahim International Airport. South African Airways, Kulula and British Airways offer flights, as well as Kenya Airways and Emirates.

When is the best time to go to Comoros Islands?

Like many of these African island breaks, the Comoros Islands has a tropical maritime climate. The best time to visit is the dry season, which is between May and November.

2016 is almost over and 2017 is looming on the horizon. Wondering where to party or what to do in South Africa this New Year’s Eve? We’ve picked out 22 of the hottest New Year’s Eve parties and events around South Africa for you. Choose from rock concerts, river rafting, dance parties, orchestral evenings, beach dinners or a festival of lights to celebrate the end of another year and usher in a brand new one.

New Year’s Eve parties in the Eastern Cape

1.  New Year’s Eve Bash with Dynamic Sounds

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Morgan Bay Hotel
Tickets: From R180 per person
Contact: find the event on Facebook

This year’s festivities at the Morgan Bay Hotel include a Mexican buffet meal, that will be served with a free margarita when you arrive and live musical accompaniment. There will be a firework display at the stroke of midnight.

2. Nieu Bethesda Festival of Lights

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Nieu Bethesda
Tickets: R150
Contact: Tel 0498411731, email info@bethesdatower.co.za, nieubethesda.org

The Bethesda Arts Centre, First People Centre, will be celebrating the arrival of the New Year with its usual Festival of Lights. This is a joyful alcohol-free family celebration, where everyone walks in a singing procession carrying their lanterns through Hightown (the local township) and then back to the centre for a braai and dancing to a live band. Those who would like to make a lantern can join a workshop during the two weeks before the Festival.

New Year’s Eve parties in Gauteng

3. Razzle Dazzle NYE Party at Chicago Piano Bar

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Randpark Ridge
Tickets: From R200
Contact: www.facebook.com/Chicagos.Piano.Bar

Your fancy gown deserves a night out! Dine and dance into 2017 in style and don’t forget your mask. There’ll be live entertainment to lead you into the New Year and you can choose whether to indulge in a dinner and dance, or just dance.

4. Revolution New Year Open Air Music Festival

When: 30 December 2016 to 1 January 2017
Where: Hornbill Lodge, Magaliesberg
Tickets: R320
Contact: facebook.com/RevolutionNYE

Join the tribes of Johannesburg’s underground dance at this earth quaking, mind baking, soul shaking three-day open air festival, featuring international acts and over 40 of South Africa’s top trance, techno and drum & bass DJ’s with live acts on two stages.

5. The Barnyard Theatre 99 Hits Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: The Barnyard Theatre, Pretoria
Tickets: From R140
Contact: barnyardtheatre.co.za

Get ready for the most daring 99 Hits rock show ever to hit the Barnyard Theatre stage. Featuring a colourful versatile cast that will rewind to synth pop, new wave and arena rock in the most authentic style. Watch how Elvis takes on Cliff Richard and Cher takes on Mick Jagger, and how Katy Perry takes on Miley Cyrus. Watch the cast go driving down the road with songs such as Little Deuce Coupe by The Beach Boys, Greased Lightning from the musical Grease, Drive my Car by The Beatles, and I Drove all Night by Celine Dion.

New Year’s Eve parties in KwaZulu-Natal

6. A Night at the Taj Mahal New Years Eve Dinner

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Oyster Box, Umhlanga Rocks
Tickets: From R2500
Contact: oysterboxhotel.com 

Step into a world of beauty at the Taj Mahal… well, at the dazzling Oyster Box. The menu is inspired by Indian cuisine with Henna artists and Indian dancing. The dinner will consist of a three-course meal followed by a New Year’s celebration where DJ Daniel Israel will get you into the year 2017.

7. The Smoking Dragon New Year’s Eve Festival

When: 29 December 2016 to 1 January 2017
Where: Amphitheatre Backpackers
Tickets: From R695 per person
Contact:  facebook.com/smokingdragonfestivals/

A three-day event with a variety of bands to appeal to a wide range of music lovers. Bands this year include The Kiffness, The Rudimentals, Sublime Tribute Show, Grassy Spark, The Dandies and more. There are also a variety of activities on offer suitable for families with small children, older folk and adrenaline junkies. All tickets allow you to camp on the festival grounds, including the one-day passes.

8. Ballito New Year’s Eve Street Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Ballito Street Party and Crush Night Club, Ballito
Tickets: From R400 per person
Contact: newyearsevesa.co.za/ballito

The biggest and loudest New Year’s Eve street party hits Durban’s North Coast with four dance floors and cutting-edge design and production. This year brings an incredible live component planned that you won’t want to miss!

New Year’s Eve parties in the Western Cape

9. Karoo Art Hotel New Year’s Eve

When: 30 December 2016 to 1 January 2017
Where: Karoo Art Hotel, Barrydale
Tickets: From R200 per person
Contact:  karooarthotel.co.za, reservations@karooarthotel.co.za

Swing into 2017 with  singer, songwriter, guitarist and key vocalist from 90s era favourite: Nic Turner. There will also be supporting acts from legendary Schalk Joubert on the bass and Jannie Hannepoot Van Tonder playing the trombone.

10. Rezonance Festival

When: 30 December 2016 to 2 January 2017
Where: Pat Busch Mountain Reserve in Robertson’s
Tickets: From R500
Contact: rezonancefestival.com

Four music arenas, magical décor, world-class sound system and the perfect space for reckless abandon and general mayhem with the hottest local trance, progressive, drum & bass, techno, chill and dub step acts. Plenty of food options will be offer as well as a flea market with jewellery, clothing and more.

11. Kirstenbosch New Year’s Eve Concert

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, Cape Town
Tickets: R375 per person
Contact: www.sanbi.org

This year sees South Africa’s best-known Johnny Clegg as the headline act and Slow Jack as a guest act, at the New Years concert. This is a picnic-style concert, so don’t forget to take a blanket and a picnic basket.

12. HQ New Year’s Eve Experience

When: 31 December 2016
Where: HQ, Shortmarket Street
Tickets: R700 per person includes canapés and Ciroc Cocktails on arrival, followed by a 3-course dinner
Contact: find the event on Facebook

HQ is transforming itself into a Tropcal Paradise, so guests can groove into 2017 in style. Tickets include a welcome cocktail, light canapés, and entertainment in the bar.

13. The Bungalow New Year’s Eve Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: The Bungalow, Clifton
Tickets: From R950 per person
Contact: thebungalow.co.za/

This promises to be a memorable night with including bubbles on arrival, dinner and a DJ/Dancefloor as entertainment. Get up close and personal with the Atlantic Ocean while enjoying two dance floors to let loose on.

14. FOREX 007 New Year’s Eve Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: The Foreign Exchange Bar, Cape Town
Tickets: From R150
Contact: find the event on Facebook

This year’s theme is “From Russia With Love: Moscow” and party goers are expected to dress in attire worthy of this classic Bond movie. There will be canapes and snacks, champagne upon arrival and at midnight, a photo booth and a dance floor with a DJ spinning tunes will into the early hours of 2017.

15. Kinky Summer New Year’s Eve Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: La Paris, Franschhoek
Tickets: From R550
Contact: facebook.com/KinkySummerNYE

Party the night away in a lush paradise, where imagination and whimsical delight are cherished and nurtured. Featuring five international artists, an extra special revival stage, a beautiful island and festival food area. Transport to and from the venue available (R150) and you can opt to spend the night in a tepee (R1600, sleeps four).

16. Reuben’s Restaurant

When: 31 December 2016
Where: One and Only, Cape Town
Tickets: From R 750 per person
Contact: oneandonlyresorts.com

Reuben’s Restaurant situated at the One and Only, will host a New Year’s Eve dinner. The three-course meal will include some drinks and good food, entertainment and a day to make sure you dance all the way into the New Year.

17. PACHA Ibiza Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Grand Café & Beach Bar, Cape Town
Tickets: From R750
Contact: facebook.com/PachaSouthAfrica

Ibiza’s most famous nightclub returns to Cape Town this summer, for an exclusive event to celebrate New Year’s Eve in style. This year sees Ibiza resident DJs Danny Wade and Josef Bamba along with selected local DJs, while the famous Pacha Ibiza dancers will also be in attendance.

18. The Cape Town Comedy Club New Year’s Eve Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: The Pumphouse, V&A Waterfront
Tickets: R350
Contact: capetowncomedy.com

In addition to an awesome comedy show, you can enjoy great food and good music, while relaxing, laughing and having fun. There will be five comedians (Shimmy Isaacs, Martin Davis, Devin Gray, Dalin Oliver and Lungelo Ndlovu), a champagne cocktail on arrival and an after party with DJ Aaron. A la carte menu and a NYE Specials menu available.

19. Six of the Best at the Barnyard Theatre

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Willowbridge, Cape Town
Tickets: R140
Contact: www.barnyardtheatre.co.za

A roller coaster ride of Six of the Best featuring a cast of singers, musicians and dancers. Spend the last night of 2016 with Freddie Mercury, Bon Jovi, Meat Loaf, Billy Joel, Cher & Pink.

20. Protea Hotel Fire & Ice! Street Party

When: 31 December 2016
Where: New Church / Bree Street, Cape Town
Tickets: From R200
Contact: facebook.com/fireandice

New Church Street will be transformed into a carnival fiesta with a continuous flow of house and hip hop beats, mixed with old time favourites. Revellers will also experience the excitement of a massive screen projection for a New Year’s Eve countdown with confetti cannons and lasers.

21. Red Carpet at the Twelve Apostles

When: 31 December 2016
Where: Azure Restaurant, 12 Apostles Hotel
Tickets: R 2 950 per person
Contact: https://www.12apostleshotel.com/

Have a classy celebration this New Year’s Eve with at the Twelve Apostles Oscars New Year’s Eve party. Glitz, glamour and champagne. the night will include a 5-course menu, a glass of sparkling wine on arrival. Dress in Oscar glam and black tie.

22. New Year on the Breede River: Round the Bend 2016/17

When: 30 December 2016 to 2 January 2017
Where: Breede River, near Swellendam (Up The Creek Camp)
Cost: From R2450 per person
Contact: felixunite.com

See the New Year in while experiencing outdoor fun and adventure on the Breede River! The cost includes a New Year Party with spit braai, accommodation, river rafting and all meals. Suitable for all ages and fitness levels.

There is no better souvenir than a book to mark your visit to a place. I for one collect books everywhere I go and especially love the hunt for a good book in second-hand bookstores. I always think of second-hand bookstores as treasure hunts for discovering literary gems. Having arrived in Cape Town five months ago, I had a strong yearning to uncover what literary spots the Mother City had to offer.

Here are things to do, bookstores to visit and other awesome literary spots for book lovers visiting or residing in Cape Town:

1. Attend book events and buy books at the Book Lounge

The Book Lounge should be a first stop for any book lover who visits Cape Town for a variety of reasons. They host book launches, seminars and story reading for children every Saturday morning and they have a lounge area downstairs where they serve delicious coffees, cappuccino, milkshakes, hot chocolate, herbal teas plus a small selection of tasty snacks. They have a fantastic selection of contemporary titles and classic texts at affordable prices. The serenity of being surrounded by books in this spot is so refreshing that you just want to grab a copy, order a milkshake or tea and let your mind wander into a fantastic book. They are open Mondays to Sundays. Look out for events on their website, they are always launching recent titles and hosting literary conversations with a variety of South African writers. Pop in to 71 Roeland street in the CBD or visit booklounge.co.za

2. Collect rare finds and Africana books at Clarke’s Bookshop

I walked passed Clarke’s Bookstore after a night out on Long Street and vowed to return for some book hunting. The bookstore has been running for over fifty years now and hosts a variety of books ranging from old Victorian texts to contemporary titles. The rates are suitable for a secondhand bookstore which mean that you can get a book for the price of a cheap drink with some finds going for R20. With R300 you can be well on your way to starting your own collection. They house some of the latest releases including My Own Liberator, a memoir by the former Chief Justice Dikgang Moseneke if you are looking for contemporary titles.  They also host a variety of discussions and books once in a while. For more information visit or pop into shop clarkesbooks.co.za

3. Dig up rare more finds at Select Books

The beauty about second-hand bookstores is the possibility of finding books that could possibly be out of print. At Select Books, they buy and sell titles that are out of print as well as offer some of the latest books. The genre ranges from Africana, the Anglo-Boer War, botany, fauna, furniture, classic texts, travel, hunting and sport. They are situated on 232 Long Street. Visit selectbooks.co.za

Bookshop trawling #fortunatefinds #clarkesbookshop #selectbooks #capetown #iheartbooks

A photo posted by Ern (@lenstales) on Aug 5, 2016 at 1:19pm PDT

4. Enjoy coffee, collect second-hand and contemporary books at Blab café

This café in Observatory has a big collection of contemporary South African literature compared to a lot of the bookstores I visited. They are also known for their vast selection of left-wing books. This is a vibrant yet calming spot to enjoy coffee, cakes, muffins, fresh juices and shwarmas, all while browsing books. You can also grab a copy of the available reading material and have a pleasurable reading experience. You can also bring a book, order coffee, sit around and read away. They also have free wi-fi if you are looking to do some work on your laptop in an environment surrounded by books. Visit their Facebook page.

You can even find a book that fits your pocket 😉

A photo posted by Young • 영현 (@beingyoungh) on Jul 25, 2016 at 10:02am PDT

5. Antique shopping & vintage books at Proseworthy Collectables

Located on Long street is an antique bookstore with a variety of books hand-picked by the owner to inspire customers with her a selection of desired subjects. There are a lot of book vintage hardcover fiction books and other books with fine binding and brown paper with the strong scent of books. Call 0214233810.

6. Explore Pan-Africanism at the Chimurenga Book Store

Chimurenga is an online Pan-Africanist online publication that also runs a second-hand bookstore on Long street with a few Pan-African book titles. They also host a variety of Pan-African talks as well as writers. Visit chimurenga.co.za.

Call it a Difficult Night by Mishka Hoosen launched at the Chimurenga Factory last night #mishkahoosen #whatismentalillness #Chimurenga #capetown #panafricanmarket

A photo posted by Leanne Brady (@tships) on Jan 26, 2016 at 8:32pm PST

7. Give back by buying books at CAFDA Bookstores

This organisation was established as a commission of inquiry seeking to address poverty, disease, malnutrition and severe flooding homes in the Southern communities in the Cape Flats. The bookstore was opened in 1961 in Claremont and moved to Warwick Street in 1971 where it’s been located since. They have a variety of branches across Cape Town, from Seapoint on 18 Regent Road, to Fishhoek on the Main Road, Cavendish in Claremont. They sell a variety of secondhand books. All proceeds raised go towards fulfilling the organisation’s mission. Visit cafda.org.za for details of directions for a variety of their stores around Cape Town.

8. Watch a play & talk books at the Alexandar Bar, Cafe and Theatre

This is a vintage styled bar on Summerstrand street. If you’re looking for a conversation-friendly spot to discuss the book that’s been keeping you up (like Trevor Noah’s memoir) this might be the spot. Their environment is cool to meet up with a friend, a blind date or an acquaintance for an engaging or intellectual conversation about a book. They have a theatre upstairs where they often host drama, comedy, anti-theatre, stand-up, cabaret, burlesque, screenings, talks, workshops, live music, readings, poetry. Visit alexanderbar.co.za

9. Collect design, art and photography books at Bibliophilia

This boutique bookstore specialises particularly in graphic design, art, illustrations and photography books. They also have a small selection of local documentaries at affordable prices. Visit bibliophilia.co.za

10. Volunteer and book shop some more at St George’s Second-hand Books & Bric-a-Brac

This bookstore is part of St George Cathedral and hosts a vast array of literature and all proceeds go towards the Cathedral music programme, outreach programmes and other Cape Town based charities. They have interesting old titles, some of which have been professionally restored – their website says they currently have an early edition of John Milton’s Paradise Lost! They welcome donations for books, kitchenware ornaments artwork and take in volunteers. To get in touch with them visit stgeorgesbooks.com

11. Choose from a bigger selection of books at Blank Books in Woodstock

This is a flagship bookstore part of the Blab café and Bibliophilia. The bookstore is found on Albert Road in the Salt Circle Arcade opposite Biscuit Mill. They sell fiction, non-fiction, collectables and a variety of quirky reading items. Open Monday to Friday 10am to 4:30pm and Saturdays 9am to 3:30pm. Visit blankbooks.co.za

12. Collect design, art and photography books at Bibliophilia

This boutique bookstore specialises particularly in graphic design, art, illustrations and photography books. They also have a small selection of local documentaries at affordable prices. Visit bibliophilia.co.za

Read: 5 South African Writers on how travel inspires their writing

Do you know of any other fantastic spots for book lovers we might have left out that are worth trying out? Feel free to share any spots or tell us about some of your favourite spots in the comments below.

This pretty Eastern Cape town has bush, beach, river and lagoon and that it makes very popular during peak season – which is why you should book these 15 gems cherry-picked by Pippa de Bruyn as soon as you can. Photographs by Teagan Cunniffe.

‘Kenton-on-Sea’ is wedged between two rivers and virtually surrounded by water’ TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years, inspected 31 properties in the town – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 15 made her list.

The case for Kenton-on-Sea

It’s geared for families
Most of Kenton’s accommodation options are large houses catering for extended families or family friends. Stock is fairly limited, and in peak season (when there’s a 14-day minimum rental), it can be a struggle to find a house. Contact the helpful Nomawethu Ngangqu at the tourism office on 046-648-2411. For hand-picked rentals, backed up by services such as The Butler (taking care of shopping), Maryke Taljaard of Kenton Rentals is your go-to lady. kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za

It’s walkable

‘You can walk everywhere in Kenton’ is something the locals say, and it’s true. If you’re based in the village, the rivers, beaches and shops (all on the main drag, including the municipal offices, where you buy your fishing permit) are less than a 10-minute stroll away.

The beaches are pristine

Kenton’s beaches, one blue-flag and two pilot status, are backed by a nature reserve and there is no sign of the rapacious development that characterises most of SA’s popular coastal destinations. You can gallop across them too ‒ horses stabled by Beachcomber Horse Trails are highly rated. eachcomberhorsetrails.co.za

The swimming choices are remarkable

Located on a narrow coastal promontory wedged between two rivers ‒ the Bushman’s and Kariega ‒ Kenton-on-Sea is virtually surrounded by water. The wide tidal rivers are navigable for kilometres (the Bushman’s for more than 30) and support an abundance of birdlife, though peak season brings speedboats, so you’ll need to head upstream. A variety of outfits offer river cruises ‒ Kenton Cruises’ Bah Fly holds particular appeal but Sibuya River Cruise (R582 pp including lunch and drinks) is the one to choose if you are interested in birdlife. sibuya.co.za, kentononseacruises.com

You can see the big five

There is a variety of Big Five reserves for day-tripping. Sibuya is the easiest and most enjoyable to access, departing from the village via the Kariega to get there (R1067 per person, includes a game drive and lunch).

Best find

Hammond house

Unlisted

Concealed behind a nondescript high wall and fortress-like door on Kenton’s only dirt road lies this spacious, elegant gem, with various wings built on separate levels and angled in such a way as to create a central triangular wind-free garden courtyard. The design of the house is quite ingenious, with the five en-suite bedrooms in two wings all entered off the covered veranda that runs the length of each wing. Not linked to each other or the living spaces, the bedrooms invite an easy flow between those wanting private relaxation and spontaneous socialising in the open-plan living area (which is open to the garden on both sides, a textured green contrast to the simple, pared-down, soothing interior), separate TV room or courtyard. Owner Jane Hammond insisted the house be designed around the existing trees, so it feels as though it has been gently placed in the well-established, dense indigenous garden, and as a result the birdlife is wonderful. I’m not a proponent of or knowledgeable about feng shui, but for a nature lover, this house has it in spades.
Cost: From R3500 per day (sleeps 10); minimum five-day rental. Serviced weekly.
Contact: kentonholidayhouse.co.za

Best bolthole

Umthi Lodge

Unlisted

I’m used to proud owners listing the thread count of their linen (in this case, a silky 200), but when the maker of the mattress protectors is also listed (Sheraton) you know that every spec in this four-bedroom villa is going to be top quality. That said, the real luxury of Umthi Lodge is the privacy, space and peace it offers. Located in the fairly new, strictly access-controlled 230-hectare Kenton Eco-Estate, the house is surrounded by natural bush and grassland with free-roaming antelope. A seven-minute walk takes you to a meandering boardwalk that descends through coastal forest to just over two kilometres of pristine, and effectively private, beach. Designed by respected Kenton architect Francois Theron, the L-shaped double-storey house buffers the pool and deck from wind, and the four bedrooms are all positioned to enjoy an aspect of the view. It’s an easy-living house for friends, or two small families (the isolation won’t suit peer-hungry teenagers), but equally ideal as a romantic break for two.
Room tip: The master bedroom is the biggest. Bedrooms three and four are furnished with single beds and share a bathroom.
Cost: From R3220 (sleeps eight). Serviced daily. Pre-stocking is by arrangement.
Contact: umthilodge.com

Best hospitality

River Roost

TripAdvisor No. 2 of 7 B&B/Inn

Judy and Simon Oliver are natural hosts ‒ engaged and entertaining, helpful, gracious and nurturing. It’s hardly surprising then that many of their guests have become friends whom they visit when travelling abroad. There are three en-suite bedrooms in their house but it’s the secluded two-bedroom log cabin at the bottom of the drive, a short stroll from the Bushman’s River, that’s the real winner. These cabin bedrooms have fabulous bush and river views and are located on either side of a large open-plan lounge/kitchen/dining area that opens onto a deep veranda. Guests are welcome to launch their boats off the jetty, relax by the Olivers’ pool and explore the beautiful gardens. The cabin is set up for self-catering (Judy and Simon stayed here while they were building their home) but you can opt to have breakfast and dinner with the Olivers ‒ and it’s worth booking a few of these. They are excellent cooks and every meal is accompanied by a good bottle of wine, a steal for the all-inclusive price of R200 per person.
Cost: R550 per person (house sleeps six, log cabin four); R75 per person for breakfast.
Contact: riverroost.co.za

Best B&B and luxury villa collection

Oyster Collection

TripAdvisor No. 4 of 7 B&B/Inn

When Louise Poole opened Oyster Box Beach House on sought-after Elliot Road nine years ago, she raised the bar very high, and with each successive house (the Oyster Collection now comprises five options dotted around the village) she has maintained pole position, offering the best-equipped, most luxurious villas in Kenton. Oyster Box Beach House is still the flagship, the only one with uninterrupted lagoon and sea views and possible to rent by the room. All Louise’s houses strike the perfect balance between luxury and laid-back; large, comfy sofas invite you to put your feet up, and there are sheltered courtyards for braaiing and dining al fresco, a Piazzetta fireplace, a swimming pool, loads of sharp knives, an abundance of crockery and glasses, and basic stocks that include a large jar of her own-blend filter coffee. Sarah Bruce, her super-efficient manageress, will arrange whatever you need to make your holiday more relaxing, from a daily cooked breakfast or the occasional meal, to booking excursions and making restaurant recommendations. It’s hardly surprising that this collection is kept very busy indeed.
House tip: Only Oyster Box Beach House offers B&B (sleeps eight and is available for exclusive use). Driftwood sleeps 10; all the others sleep eight. Look out for The Boat House, launching in October.
Cost: From R1895 per house; serviced daily, and from R895 per person B&B.
Contact: oystercollection.co.za

Best apartments

Coniston House

Unlisted

If you’re travelling solo or as a couple and looking for the most attractive, good value self-catering option in the village, the two apartments in Coniston House are it. Built as a separate unit adjoining Rob and Ann Boyds’ private home, both the ground-floor and first-floor flat are accessed by their own private entrances and feature views of the nature reserve’s dunes. The compact open-plan lounge/dining room (with a couch/daybed suitable for a pre-teen child), double bedroom and an outside deck with braai facilities and table and chairs all face this view. There’s plenty of privacy but the friendly Boyds are on hand for queries, and you’re welcome to utilise their garden courtyard if they are not entertaining.
Apartment tip: The first-floor apartment has slightly better views but the ground- floor unit is bigger. There is an interleading door between the apartments for a bigger party wanting to rent both units.
Cost: From R385 per person (each flat sleeps two adults sharing and two little ones).
Contact: conistonhouse.co.za

Best old-fashioned family holiday home

Aloes House

Unlisted

Located on Eastbourne, one of the most sought-after streets in Kenton due to its pretty views over the Kariega estuary and vegetated dunes unmarred by development, and a topography that allows for gardens, Aloes House is a real old-style Kenton holiday house – the kind you gratefully borrow from a friend. It’s utterly charming but won’t suit design purists: as advertised, this is very much a family home and the owners are present in the bric-a-brac and clutter, a mishmash of decor and organic design that is classic of a much-loved second-generation holiday home. That said, this is the kind of easy-living beach house that makes for the perfect family holiday, and you’ll likely leave with a heavy heart, wishing it was yours to return to every year. There’s an abundance of space with great views from the compact upstairs kitchen/dining area that spills out onto a large deck (with a built-in braai and 12-seater table), and the old-fashioned garden has easy access to the estuary and beach.
Room tip: The house easily absorbs a large group in six bedrooms (two upstairs; four downstairs; three with queen beds; the rest singles) and four bathrooms.
Cost: From R2550 (sleeps 11); five-night minimum stay.
Contact: kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za

Best riverside camp

Sibuya River Camp

TripAdvisor No. 1 of 7 B&B/Inn

The adventure starts when you board the boat moored outside the reception on Eastbourne Road, and slowly head down the Kariega, stopping to identify birds en route. It’s a magical stretch of water, a deep turquoise-green ribbon twisting and turning its way through steep banks, the blue-sky horizon sculpted by euphorbias and aloes. Of the two riverside camps, River Camp ‒ with just four tents and a cosy dining-lounge area ‒ is a wonderful exclusive-use option, and also has the better tent design. Every game drive starts and ends with a boat trip, and skimming across the river while watching the play of light on the water you feel a million miles from civilisation. Staff are young and enthusiastic; the rangers knowledgeable and passionate. Game drives are remarkably productive (such a privilege to see rhino) given the relatively small size of the 3 000-hectare reserve.
Tent tip: River Camp number four is the best, most romantic location, on a promontory with a river running on either side. (Eight-tent Forest Camp is also well worth booking; number eight has the most unobstructed river view.)
Cost: Book the whole of River Camp for R18 801 all-inclusive (game activities, meals, drinks) for eight adults and eight children in four tents. It’s not only for exclusive use: guests booking fewer than four tents pay R2855 per adult sharing and R1 428 per child sharing with parents (all-inclusive).
Contact: sibuya.co.za

Best luxury winter safari bargain

Kariega Settlers Drift

Tented lodge TripAdvisor No. 2 of 8 Speciality Lodging

Kariega has come a long way since Colin Rushmere bought 660 hectares of pristine bush bordering the upper reaches of the Kariega River in 1989. It’s a whopping 10 000-hectare reserve, one of the triumvirate Big Five reserves in the Eastern Cape, and has now really come of age with the recent launch of this, its flagship lodge. Tucked into the densely vegetated steep banks high above the Bushman’s River, the lodge is a very modern interpretation of ‘tented’, with just nine cavernous suites sharing an equally ample lounge/dining area, terraced decks, a bar, wine cellar, library and a perfectly positioned pool. The suites are what I call ‘aphrodisiac rooms’: glass walls slide away to create what feels like a private floating platform in the bush, with fall-away views of the undulating topography; a large wood-burning fireplace is the final romantic touch. Finishes and fittings throughout are top-notch; food is excellent and service faultless. If you’re a South African passport holder, get here before 1 October and cash in on a fabulous luxury safari bargain.
Room tip: Tents one to six are more elevated,but design-wise the suites are identical.
Cost: SA winter resident rate (ends 30 September 2016) R2950 pp including game activities, river cruises, meals and some beverages (non-SA resident winter rate R5 500 per person).
Contact: kariega.co.za

Also worth a look

The House Quarters is a brand-new development, with seven apartments, is going to be the most stylish apartment block when it opens on 25 November. The views of the Kariega River Mouth and beaches from this location, right in the village, are fantastic. From R1500 per unit (sleeps two). housequarters.co.za

White House is located on the most sought-after part of Westbourne Road, directly opposite the rolling breakers that push into the Bushman’s River estuary, this old-style holiday bungalow was in the final stages of renovation. Given its location, low-key style and recent upgrade, this is one of my favourite houses in Kenton. R2800 (sleeps 10). kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za

Amanzi Right next to White House, is an option that features the same beautiful views but it’s a bigger house with an enormous deck and spacious living area. It has five bedrooms, with two in a separate cottage at the back ‒ ideal for teenagers. R3500 (sleeps 10). kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za

Riverside on Westbourne, is a one-bedroom garden flat has a lovely view and is a bargain at R700 (sleeps two). kenton.co.za/riverside

Beach House at Kenton on Sea On elevated Elliot Road (just above Westbourne), is a four-bedroom house (two double rooms; twin room and children’s room). From R1400 depending on numbers and the season (sleeps 10). wheretostay.co.za

Cullen House, aside from its riverside location and the number of decks from which to enjoy the views, this is a compact, impeccably maintained unit that packs a lot of accommodation: there are two bedrooms and two bunk beds in the open-plan kitchen/dining/ lounge area, making this ideal for anyone travelling with a bunch of kids. R850 (sleeps eight). kentonrentals@pamgolding.co.za

Kariega Main Lodge, this four-star lodge, built high above the banks of the Kariega River, comprises 21 log chalets, some with private pools. It’s one of the best-value Big Five safari experiences in SA. From R2900 per person including all meals, game drives and river cruises. kariega.co.za

We’re long past the stage where a timelapse of a beach at sunset will impress anyone other than your mom. (That’s her job, after all; and even she’s starting to wish you’d stop spending your money on camera gear and focus on moving out of the basement.)

 
This one, from Rory Allen, is something different. He’s spent over two and a half years travelling the world, collecting epic moments to stitch together into this epic piece of art. You’ll recognise some of the opening scenes – from clouds rolling over Table Mountain to Joburg’s Orlando Towers – but the video really comes into its own in the second half, where vibrant night scenes and star trails from places like Botswana and Thailand are mixed with South African night skies.

 
This is the most beautiful timelapse video I’ve seen all year, and I can only strongly recommend that you allow yourself to daydream for 3:24 minutes (the length of a pop song, or how long it takes to make a cup of tea) and watch it yourself. Come on, the holidays!

Follow Rory Allen on Facebook, to keep up to date with his newer creations.

 
Can’t watch it now? Admire some more of these snaps from the video then:

Everybody has heard of Pilanesberg and Madikwe, but there are 13 more parks in the north-western corner of our country that I didn’t know much about. So I set out to uncover the ‘secret gems’ travel writers dream of finding. I visited eight; four were great, but the rest, although lovely in terms of the landscape, made for unsettling travel, especially for a woman alone. First, these are the four places that shone.

Also read: Madikwe, the North-West’s most successful park

1. Mosetlha Bush Camp & Eco Lodge in Madikwe Game Reserve

Go for: unfenced accommodation and the Big Five

I had an incredible stay at this rustic camp in the enormous Big Five reserve – at 750 square kilometres, it’s one of South Africa’s largest. The camp is unfenced, except for an elephant wire that prevents the jumbos from pulling up trees around the lodge. Eco-friendly facilities include ventilated pit loos and donkey boilers for hot showers. The camp sleeps up to 16 in nine log cabins on stilts, which have canvas sides that can be rolled up for al fresco sleeping. The food is homely, complementing the camp’s unpretentious feel, and this is easily the most affordable and authentic bushveld experience for South Africans looking to stay in the park.

The cabins at Mosetlha Bush Camp are relatively open so you can soak up the night sky. 

Getting to Madikwe Game Reserve

Distance from Joburg 324 kilometres (four-hour drive)
Closest town Zeerust
Park fees R160 per person
Cost R1 795 per person on SADC rates, including all meals and two daily game drives.
Contact thebushcamp.com

There are springbok, black wildebeest and giraffe in abundance in the Kalahari-like Botsalano Game Reserve.

2. Safari, Lerako And Sentry Hill Bush Camps at Botsalano Game Reserve

Go for: an affordable taste of the Kalahari

This reserve is a prize – a Kalahari thornveld escape that’s close to Joburg and has an abundance of springbok, gemsbok, buffalo and giraffe. With luck, you might even spot a white rhino. Four rustic camps, each with basic ablutions (cold showers), are scattered around the park in unfenced bush where blue and violet-eared waxbills busy themselves in the acacias. As I was travelling alone, I was a bit nervous about security, but the reservations manager confirmed they’d had no incidents of theft or harassment. The management added that due to regular anti-poaching patrols, if an undesirable person was on the reserve, they would know about it. My car alarm went off during my stay, but rangers suggested monkeys were to blame.

Getting to Botsalano Game Reserve

Distance from Joburg 320 kilometres (four-hour drive)
Closest town Mahikeng, close to the border of Botswana
Park fees R35 per adult, R20 children (two to 12 years) and pensioners, R5 per car and R26 per minibus
Cost R200 per campsite per night for up to eight people
Contactparksnorthwest.co.za

There aren’t many places close to Joburg where you can camp right on the river in shady conditions like this spot.

3. Vaal River Campsites at Wolwespruit Nature Reserve

Go for: waterside camping and fishing in the Vaal River

Each of the 32 campsites has a long drop, a braai area and a rubbish-collection point. Bring cash, as there are no card facilities. Sites are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis, so gun for camp number six. The rapids here make for better angling and the site is also close to new ablution blocks that are due to be fitted with geysers. There’s nearly a kilometre between each site. The rustic Stone House cottage was being renovated and fitted with solar power and should be ready by the time you read this. It sleeps six (R250 per night) and has a stove, small fridge, a heated shower and lights. Bring towels, crockery, cutlery and pots.

Getting to Wolwespruit Nature Reserve

Distance from Joburg 260 kilometres (three-hour drive)
Closest town Wolmaransstad
Park fees R30 per person, angling R20 per person per day
Cost R50 per campsite per night for up to six people
Contactparksnorthwest.co.za

Giraffe is one of the many great game sightings you’re guaranteed in the Pilanesberg.

4. Manyane Resort at Pilanesberg National Park

Go for: hassle-free camping in a rugged setting

The Pilanesberg remains one of the best spots for an easy weekend getaway and promises sightings of the Big Five and wild dog. Its geological history as an old volcano gives it interesting topography. Manyane, which has a pool, easy-access water points, dustbins and braai pits, is my favourite campsite in the area. Bring a braai grid, as some are broken, plus a lock for your tent because clever baboons unzip them to get to your food. The resort is just outside the park, so you can leave after work on a Friday without worrying about making it before the park’s gates close.

Getting to the Pilanesberg

Distance from Joburg 190 kilometres (two-and-a-half-hour drive)
Closest town Rustenburg
Park fees R65 per adult
Cost From R270 per campsite per night for up to six people.
Contactmanyaneresort-pilanesberg.com

The other four parks (and why we don’t recommend staying there right now)

Travelling alone in some parks and reserves is not always easy as a woman. Safety, for all travellers, is a priority and the reality is that there are still places where your safety cannot be guaranteed. Then, of course, there is the issue of maintenance and positive guest experiences. I know for a fact that the following parks used to be worth a stay (my grandparents can testify), but when I visited them, they were simply not up to scratch.

1. Molopo Nature Reserve

The park itself is wonderful. Waterholes were rich with gemsbok, kudu, black wildebeest and birds. Phiri Camp was lovely, with neatly raked, private shaded campsites, but the shower taps had been shut off and there was little firewood for the donkey boiler. No ranger was present on arrival to arrange camping, collect payment or give me a map to explore the park. I set up camp and stayed the night without seeing a single park official; it was only in the morning that there were staff present. Considering it’s a long drive (630 kilometres) from Joburg, I’d honestly rather push on another 200 kilometres to Mabuasehube in Botswana, which has similar facilities but also has lions.

The author enjoying the campfire and sunset at Molopo Nature Reserve.

2. Barberspan Bird Sanctuary

Barberspan Bird Sanctuary, near Delareyville, is an Important Bird and Biodiversity Area (IBA) – a BirdLife International concept denoting places of global significance for conservation. This reserve regularly supports more than 20 000 birds, holding more than 320 species. As it is perennial, Barberspan is a sanctuary for waterbirds in winter when other vleis in the area dry up. It’s definitely worth a day trip but the toilets around the pan were revolting, and although the two self-catering cottages and campsites weren’t the worst accommodation I’ve seen, I struggled to see why even the most dedicated twitcher would choose to stay here.

Ostrich stroll across the grassy plains around Barberspan Bird Sanctuary.

3. Borakalalo National Park

Local fishermen lined the banks of the large Klipvoor Dam at Borakalalo, a beautiful 14 000-hectare area of woodland and open bushveld, and waterbuck and wildebeest drank at the water’s edge as pairs of pied kingfishers danced in the reeds. However, while the environment was beautiful, the same couldn’t be said about the reserve’s shabby Moretele and Phudufudu camps. Most tents were full of holes and barely standing, and an ablution block had a broken geyser. There were also troubling reviews on TripAdvisor about theft. As a result, my night, while thankfully uneventful, wasn’t restful. The angling campsite, however, seemed in good nick, occupied by satisfied fishermen.

The weekend at Borakalalo, where fishermen line the dam in the middle of the park. 

4. Kgaswane Mountain Reserve

I didn’t stay at this park because it was just too risky. Even the booking agents I spoke to warned me against going, saying that ‘criminal activities around the area are making it hard for the reserve to guarantee the safety of the campers – they target bicycles and electronics’. For the first time in my three years with Getaway, I had to acknowledge that travelling alone in my own country can be dangerous.

So, what’s up with North West Parks?

I asked North West Parks Board regional manager Johnson Maoka for more information.

‘The protected areas [now] managed by the North West Parks Board are born from the amalgamation of the erstwhile Boputhatswana Parks Board, the Cape and Transvaal Provincial Administrations and Bophuthatswana Tourism Council. One will appreciate that each amalgamating entity brought with it a number of personnel across the ranks, equipment and infrastructure of various stages of use and age – and all these had budgets with the old entities that did not necessarily accompany the functions and activities taken up by the new entity.

‘Budgets had to be drawn up from scratch, and not every request was accommodated by the provincial government due to the diverse responsibilities it had.’ The request for funding for infrastructure development and upgrades by the North West Parks Board to the provincial government ‘though it forms part of the list of priorities, is often overshadowed by people-oriented requests for funding.’

According to Dinah Rangaka, PR manager of the North West Parks Board, ‘an increased budget to take of infrastructure development in all the 15 parks and reserves’ is on the cards.

Maoka acknowledged that crime in the area has increased lately. At both Kgaswane and Borakalalo, the problem was reportedly concentrated during busy weekends – and despite increased security at both parks, ‘both reserves have few security staff in relation to their size – security operations are more against wildlife crime such as poaching as opposed to common acts of crime.’

Reserve managers are working with both the Jericho and Rustenburg SAPS to curb criminal incidents. ‘Private security firms are an option,’ says Maoka, ‘but the issue again remains the lack of funding. We are, however, determined to restore the safetyand credibility of the reserves to the public.’

Until then, we say do support these wilderness areas with day visits but book to stay elsewhere.

For updates on the situation, or any queries and comments, contact North West Parks & Tourism Board through its Conservation PR page on Facebook.

This story was first published in the August 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our August issue features Mana Pools, great North West parks, and best trips for women. On shelves from 25 July.

Eye-to-eye is the best way to capture superb animal shots. Photographic safari specialist David Rogers rates his top hides in Southern Africa.

The recent flurry of photographic innovations, such as drones, BeetleCams and other devices, have helped photographers achieve unusual perspectives and startling new angles. Yet most award- winning wildlife photographs haven’t come from the skies or the back of a remote-controlled car. They’ve been conjured by those willing to sit in hides all day, and sometimes all night, for the perfect shot. Hides have come a long way since cavemen hid behind branches at waterholes waiting to club thirsty animals as they came to drink, and as you will discover, some of the newest hides employ such modern tech you will feel like you’ve walked into a top-end photo studio.

1. Zimanga hides

Northern KwaZulu-Natal, South Africa
When to visit: May to October

Photographer and reserve owner Charl Senekal teamed up with Hungarian wildlife photographer Bence Máté to create the most sophisticated hides I have seen anywhere in Africa. Bence is a former BBC Wildlife Photographer of the Year and is recognised internationally for his expertise in hide construction. Zimanga is a private reserve that covers 6 000 hectares of bushveld, fever trees and rolling hills. It is particularly well known for its birds, which number more than 400 species. It claims to be South Africa’s first lodge designed specifically for photographers, and offers game drives as well as a brace of outstanding hides: the Umgodi Overnight Hide, Zimanga Lagoon Hide, two reflection (or ‘bird-bath’) hides, the new Vulture Hide and a more basic, smaller mobile carmine bee-eater hide. At the five main hides, photographers shoot from behind special one-way reflective glass imported from Germany. This means that you can use relatively short lenses and the wildlife is undisturbed. The Lagoon Hide (shown left) offers exceptional opportunities and is near a small pool, which is kept topped up with fish to bring in birds. The Overnight Hide has air conditioning, laminated wood floors, four gimbal-head tripods, a sleeping area, kitchen and toilet (a rare luxury as far as hides go). There are also night alarms, activated when animals come to drink, and two sets of lights for creative lighting. The reflection hides, also air conditioned, are small but deadly effective, giving amazing perspectives of small birds drinking metres from the glass.

Getting there
A hide visit is from R1275 pp (SADC rate) and lasts three and a half hours (except for the overnight hide). Only 14 visitors or less are allowed on the reserve at one time. Doornhoek Homestead, opening this month, sleeps seven (groups or single travellers). R2400 per person including meals, two game drives a day and half price for hide visits. zimanga.com

2. Kasanka hides

Northern Zambia
When to visit: All year, but November for the bats

Kasanka National Park covers 390km2 of miombo woodlands, dry evergreen forest, swamp forest, papyrus swamps, grassy dambo and riverine forest, which are on the edge of the Congo Basin. The park is most famous for its migration of fruit bats, which converge here in November and December in numbers that exceed 10 million. They roost in the mushito forest in such high numbers that their enormous cumulative weight (each bat weighs half a kilogram) can cause tree casualties. The bats fly out at dusk on their feeding cycle, and virtually black out the sky for 20 to 30 minutes. They can be viewed on foot, or in certain spots including the NHK and BBC hides. The latter (shown above) is really just a platform above the trees, but it’s an amazing viewing spot, day or night. Fibwe Hide is 20 metres up a giant red mahogany tree and is probably the best place in the world to photograph sitatunga. You need an extremely long lens to pick off the shy antelope as they move through the dawn mist. I have snapped up to seven of these animals in an hour.

Getting there
Guided trips to see the bats are R360 per person ($25). There are two lodges, Luwombwa and Wasa, the latter being closer to the bat forest. Full- board SADC rates are R2 460 per person ($170), which includes the bat trip. The self-catering option is R1000 per person ($70) and R285 per person ($20) for camping. kasankanationalpark.com

3. Kaingo hides

Eastern Zambia
When to visit: Dry season only, May to October

Like Derek Shenton’s Kaingo and Mwamba camps in South Luangwa National Park, the hides are rebuilt out of local materials each year after the summer rains. The three I have used are the Hippo Hide, Carmine Bee-eater Hide and Elephant Hide. Furthermore, Mwamba has the extremely productive Last Waterhole Hide, which attracts Cookson’s wildebeest and numerous other species, and is directly accessible from camp. The Hippo Hide is cleverly designed and exciting, built out of reed matting and reinforced into a steep-sided riverbank at the confluence of the Luangwa River and its tributary, the Mwamba. As the dry season takes hold, hundreds of hippos converge at ‘Hippo Corner’. As the river level drops, it becomes crowded and the grunts and territorial shows get increasingly exciting. The hide is reached by a set of sturdy metal stairs; it’s best in the fading afternoon light, although this is also the time when the leopards, for which this park is so famous, become active. It is also possible to get virtually eye level with the water on a special lower platform. The Elephant Hide is a sturdy tree platform. The elephants have crossed the river at this point for decades; when daily crossings are monitored by camp staff, guests are alerted. I have also had great success in the Bee-eater Hide, which is placed metres from the river bank and allows for great close-ups (as shown above). There is also a mobile hide near the lagoons. Kaingo has some of the best guides in the park, who can help with settings and getting people into the best positions for shooting.

Getting there
The hides may be used only by guests staying at Kaingo or Mwamba camps, and are included in the rates. From R10140 per person sharing ($706). A sleep out in the Elephant Hide costs an extra R2500 for two ($174). kaingo.com

4. Terrapin Hide

North West Province, South Africa
When to visit: May to October

Jaci’s Lodges does things creatively, and visitors to the Terrapin Hide are invited to order drinks, come and go as they please, and even write their names on the roof. It’s as fun, fantastic and free-spirited as the two lodges it serves. Jaci’s Lodges is in the Madikwe Game Reserve, in an eco-zone between the Kalahari and the Highveld biomes, so there is a wide mix of species to see, including wild dog, lion, leopard, rhino, elephant and smaller things, such as terrapins. Guests at Safari Lodge and Tree Lodge can visit the hide, which is located in the middle of a permanent waterhole, by day or night through an access tunnel. The hide itself is spacious enough for six to eight people, with views in three directions, and equipped with stools and sophisticated Gimpro heads (for all the latter’s knobs and joints, I find bean bags offer better flexibility of movement). There are two other levels to the hide for different perspectives on the water level, and where you can relax with a G&T and enjoy a topside view even if nothing comes to the water. Plus, there is a bed on a raised wooden platform for anyone wanting an overnight visit (with easy access to the tunnel of the Terrapin Hide). I used the hide on a children’s photo workshop, and it was a great place for them to work on their photo skills. At our evening slide show, one of the children produced a purple giraffe – a species not previously sighted in Madikwe! Daily game drives with a resident or visiting photo guide in a dedicated vehicle are available, as well as Canon 7D Mark II cameras with 100-400mm lenses to rent.

Getting there
Visits to the hide are free for guests at Tree and Safari Lodge, as is a night on the ‘starbed’ platform. Accommodation from R3295 per person sharing, including two meals (SADC rates). Guided photo drives from R750 to R950 per person. jacislodges.co.za

5. Onkolo Hide

Northern Namibia
When to visit: May to October

The hide at Onguma Game Reserve (above) had just opened for viewing and I couldn’t resist taking a look. I went at midday and there were springbok, kudu, jackal, kori bustards and warthog (below) aplenty. As the hide settles in, there should be excellent opportunities to photograph other game such as giraffe, rhino and lion. One of the guides told me that they had come to the hide one morning and found lions licking dew off the glass. Onguma is near the eastern Namutoni gate of Etosha National Park, bordering Fishers Pan. The reserve covers 34000 hectares of open plains, grasslands and woodlands. As is the case with Etosha, it’s at waterholes in this dry region where the action happens – it’ll be just a matter of time before lions take down animals right in front of Onkolo Hide. The hide has a sheltered walkway, so it’s easy to move to and from the hide without disturbing the animals – a great benefit for someone who wants to stretch their legs or go to the loo. Currently, there are no specialist photo guides at Onguma, but the opportunities speak for themselves.

Getting there
The hide activity is R320 per person including drinks. Onguma has five beautiful lodges – The Fort, Tree Top, Tented, Bush Camp and Aoba – and two excellent campsites. From R200 to R4430 per person. Guide fees are from R620 per group. onguma.com

6. Mashatu hides

Eastern Botswana
When to visit: May to October

Mashatu covers 29000 hectares of private land within the Northern Tuli Game Reserve in the Mapungubwe Conservation Area bordering South Africa, Zimbabwe and Botswana. Topographically, it’s a fascinating place with rolling hills and good populations of lion and cheetah. The area is a corridor for elephants, and it’s not uncommon to see hundreds making their way through the region. There are no fences here so the area really has a wilderness feel to it. Acclaimed wildlife photographer and photo guide Shem Compion pioneered the eye-level hides here in 2011 and they have been a great success. It was at the Matebole Hide that South African photographer Greg du Toit took his award-winning image of ‘blue’ elephants, which won him the BBC Wildlife Photographer of the Year title in 2013. There are two main hides, Matebole and Elephant Valley, as well as the smaller infinity (reflection) hide and carmine bee-eater hide, which is set up depending on where the colonies are. Each must be booked in advance and takes the place of a morning or afternoon activity at the lodge. The resident professional photo guides accompany photographers to the hides and give excellent tips and tricks. The main hides are made from sturdy elephant-proof containers, accessed via a firemen’s step ladder from the top. I was with a fleet-footed friend on the far side of 80, and she found it a doddle. It’s not possible to leave the hide without scaring away the animals, so make sure you take a toilet break beforehand. Elephant activity is never guaranteed, and our visit in early June was after some heavy rains, but the procession of game and birds coming to drink was varied and interesting and would become even more so as the dry season progressed.

Getting there
Hide sessions cost R935 per person ($65) for half day, R1870 per person ($130) full day and R7 185 per person ($500) for exclusive use. C4 at PhotoMashatu has an equipped vehicle with a photography expert and guide for an additional fee. R7330 pp sharing ($510) in the lodge and R5390 per person sharing ($375) in the tented camp. Meals and game drives included. mashatu.com

We suggest a few diversion tactics in this issue that will help you get through any group holiday, sanity intact.

My brother has an excellent ‘festive season’ policy: no material gifts, only experiences. Things are just things, he says, and he needs no more of them. What he’d much rather have is travel adventures with his people, and that includes his fabulous (my word) sisters. The idea is to create wonderful memories he can savour when he’s old and we’re both gone (my brother will outlive us not only through sheer stubbornness, but also because he’s younger, and avoids the sun and sugar).

The Orange River is also a cracker of a family holiday. Photo by Jessica Zumpfe.

 
Also read: why paddling the Orange River is one of the best family holidays in the world

 
So every year the Schoeman siblings go away together. We’ve been zip-lining in Ceres, snorkelling in Kleinbaai and leaping into rock pools in the Cederberg. Soon we will loll under a waterfall in Franschhoek (thank you Pippa de Bruyn for that On The Chart recommendation – don’t miss her latest on Kalk Bay, page 45). At any rate, I can categorically state: travel beats an old pressie hands down!

But we’ve also learnt a clever trick to avoid a typical pitfall for families, the retrogressive fight – we plan an ‘activity’. It works a treat. Why? Firstly, idle minds seek diversions, and when you’re with people with whom you’re too familiar and you have too much time on your hands, well, you can be exactly that – far too familiar. Secondly, everyone puts their best foot forward in front of strangers (it’s imperative to choose an activity that requires that). Thirdly, you have to be totally committed to grouchery to bicker when you’re doing something fun. Finally, there’s nothing like, say, jumping out of a plane to make you appreciate the fact that you came out alive on the other side – gratitude is a great motivator to be nice.

 
This issue is full of fun things to do. We tested them all out personally: Kati Auld went coasteering (chilly but rewarding), Welcome Lishivha jumped out a plane (terrifying but rewarding), Melanie van Zyl ‘did’ the Storms River (invigorating and rewarding), while Tyson Jopson finally learnt to drive properly (exciting, and rewarding for everyone else)*. Michelle Hardie went horse riding with her daughter and two hot young foreigners (titillating for her daughter, she swears), David Rogers showed his children the underwater world (they were very grateful, always a good feeling to engender in children). So here’s an idea: this season why not buy an experience for someone you adore? The benefits are huge; you’ll have good memories, they will too, it’ll be conversation fodder, and it’s great for the country – you’ll be growing our home tourism. There are loads of fantastic ideas buried in these pages. One of them may deliver your best summer ever – and help keep your family and friendships intact.

You’re welcome.

Here’s a peek behind the scenes of this month’s issue:

This month’s contributors

Ian McNaught Davis

After suffering recurring bouts of wanderlust, Ian quit his desk job to work on a photography portfolio. Fascinated by Ethiopia, he headed there for the Timkat festival, a celebration and mass- baptism marking the end of an annual pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians. See his story and photos on page 92.

Michelle Hardie

Getaway’s copy editor is often distracted by people around her. On a recent horse-riding trip with her daughter in the Amathole Mountains, the presence of two hot-blooded Continentals almost lost her her reins. Read about their adventure on page 105.

 
Chris Davies

The last time we heard from photojournalist Chris Davies, he was stuck between two brahmins in a hot place: a 30-hour train journey from Mumbai to Amritsar. Before that, though, we sent him somewhere a little less cramped – the gorgeous KZN North Coast town of Zinkwazi. Read his guide to the perfect beach break on page 139.

This story was first published in the December 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our August issue features Mana Pools, great North West parks, and best trips for women. On shelves from 25 July.

Whether you’re after comfort or luxury, we rounded up our favourite tented camps for all tastes.

In the bush

1. Pafuri River Camp

Pafuri, Limpopo Province 

Nights perfect for stargazing at Pafuri River Camp. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

Pafuri is where South Africa meets Mozambique and Zimbabwe in the northernmost part of Kruger National Park. It’s far from the city, has no cellphone reception and Pafuri River Camp uses only gas and solar power, so stargazing is also great. Each unit are equipped with self-catering facilities (store food in solid boxes as bushbabies have worked out how to get into snacks), but dinner and breakfast are available on request.

Cost: From R400 per person sharing
Contact: pafuri.co.za

2. Tamboti

Kruger National Park, Mpumalanga 

A small satellite camp overlooking a dry riverbed regularly patrolled by hyena, Tamboti Tented Camp lets you a little closer to nature than the main rest camps. There are communal ablutions and kitchen facilities but you need to bring utensils, plus pots and pans. There’s also a bird hide located within the camp boundary if your view’s lacking. This more rugged side of Kruger also comes with a pair of nocturnal, bin-banging honey badgers that parade the camp.

Cost: From R540 a unit (sleeps two)
Contact: sanparks.org

3. B’sorah Luxury Tented Camp

Hartbeespoort, North West Province

View from B’Sorah. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

B’sorah is a family-owned 1600-hectare farm, criss-crossed by hiking and biking trails, romping warthogs and families of cows. The four luxury tents offer all the pros of camping with few of the cons. Tents are spacious and have running water, a large and comfy bed and a full outdoor kitchen. Best of all, the tents are already pitched and guests needn’t bring anything but food to eat and the clothes on their backs. The Swempie Honeymoon Tent, only R30 per person more than the standard tents, offers a sweeping view over the bushveld with luxurious furnishings and an oversized shower and bathtub. Book early as the Swempie tent is often reserved for weeks in advance.

Time moves slowly at B’sorah, and one of the most gratifying things to do is light a fire, sit on the deck and sip a beer while listening to frogs sing in the trickling stream. More ambitious visitors might go for a bike ride or hike, perhaps climb the small hill near the tents and watch the sun go down.

Cost: R490 per person.
Contact: bsorah.com

4. Lindani Tented Camp

Waterberg, Limpopo Province

The raised platform and outdoor shower at Lindani Tented Camp. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

This budget-friendly tented forest camp is cleverly built between a patch of bushveld forest above grassy plains in a private game reserve just three hours from Joburg. Spend time on the easy Green Flag hiking trails, or hire a bicycle and cycle past wildebeest, zebra, eland and giraffe with the kids. Pack a picnic for lunch and stop at any of the five riverside picnic sites and have a splash to cool down (one spot even has tubes for a lazier soak).

Cost: From R250 per person a night
Contact: lindani.co.za

5. Village d’Afrique

Modimolle, Limpopo Province

Fireplace and poolside deck below the main lounge area. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Experience swanky safari tent living less than two hours from Johannesburg. Based on the 330-hectare Shakila Game Farm, Village d’Afrique is one of several tented camps on the property and sleeps eight in four beautifully appointed tents complete with inside baths, king-size beds and outdoor showers. Rhodesian teak decks connect the tents to the main area: an open-plan kitchen, lounge and dining area overlooking a rim- flow pool and fire pit. It’s suitable for sedans (4x4s are preferable), groceries are available in nearby Modimolle, and it’s ideal for families (each unit has a sleeper couch for kids). Spot kudu, blue wildebeest and zebra on game drives or swim in the Nyl River.

Cost: From R1000 per unit per night
Contact: villagedafrique.co.za

6. Bontle Rest Camp

Marakele National Park, Limpopo 

Enjoying coffee on the private verandah at Bontle Rest Camp. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

About a kilometre from the main gate the swish new units at Bontle Rest Camp are more chic than any other SANParks establishment I’ve visited, with crisp white linen and great kitchen facilities. The tents are evenly spread apart and surrounded by Waterberg bushveld for privacy. There’s a chance that white rhino will trot past and I woke up to impala chomping fresh shoots in front of the tent.

Cost: From R1100 a unit (sleeps two)
Contact: sanparks.org

7. Roamers Rest Safari Lodge

Phalaborwa, Limpopo Province

View from the pool and sundowners deck at Roamers Rest. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Set in the 40 000-hectare Balule Nature Reserve about 45 kilometres from Phalaborwa, you are able to stay in a bush lodge perched high on a ridge above a waterhole thats regularly visited by elephant and lit up at night so you can spot lion drinking below the lodge deck when night falls. Roamers Rest sleeps a maximum of seven in two luxury-style safari tents, while Ingwe sleeps three and has a beautiful bushveld birding deck. The other is called Nyala and can sleep a family of four with an open-air Jacuzzi on the private deck. The lodge is owner-run by Kyle and Charlotte Preston, who’ll treat you like childhood friends, and are both incredibly knowledgable about the bushveld, complementing the unfenced wilderness stay on the Big Five reserve.

Cost: From R1452 per person sharing DBB, plus a game drive.
Contact:  roamersrestsafarilodge.com

8. Ndzhaka and Buffelshoek

Manyeleti, Mpumalanga

Manyeleti Game Reserve is particularly beautiful in November and December when the short grassy plains are lush, attracting a multitude of animals. Photo by Villiers Steyn.

Two community-run camps located in the centre and far south of the Manyeleti Reserve respectively. Buffelshoek is fully catered, while Ndzhaka is self-catering, but both are rustic and unfenced, with five two-sleeper safari tents with en-suite ablution facilities and communal kitchen. A resident herd of nyala often browse between the tents at Ndzhaka, which lies hidden in a dense patch of riverine forest on the banks of the N’waswitsontso riverbed. Leopards are also frequently seen in the vicinity. Buffelshoek, which is in a more open area only a stone throw from the Sabi Sands boundary, is often visited by lions.

Cost: Ndzhaka Camp is R680 per person sharing, with guided walks at R340 per person and game drives from R300 per person. Upgraded Buffelshoek Camp is R2280 per person per night including meals and two game drives per day.
Contact: wildlifeupclose.co.za, lynetteross@telkomsa.net

9. Honey Bee Suite

Gansbaai, Western Cape

Photo by Roxanne Reid.

Ok, it’s more forest than bush but just two hours from Cape Town you’ll find an eco-friendly, off-the-grid paradise between trees in the indigenous Platbos Forest, where more than 22 000 trees have been planted in the last ten years. You can walk magical forest trails, relax in a hammock and feel freedom like nature intended in the open-air shower.

Cost: From R850 for two
Contact: platbos.co.za

10. Mosetlha Bush Camp

Madikwe, North West Province

Only lanterns light up this amazing off-the-grid camp in a quiet section of Madikwe. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

Mosetlha is easily the most affordable option for South Africans in Madikwe and provides an authentic bushveld experience being unfenced except for a height-specific elephant wire that prevents them from pulling up trees around the lodge. The camp sleeps up to 20 in stilted log cabins that have canvas blinds, which can be rolled up to sleep with the starry skies. Food is homely matching the camps down-to-earth and unpretentious feel cooked over the fire and on gas.

Cost: From R1795 per person sharing for all meals and two game drives
Contact: thebushcamp.com

Close to water

10. Nata Lodge

Nata, Botswana 

Pelicans roosting along the pans at the Nata Bird Sanctuary. Photo by Melanie van Zyl

Nata Lodge is near the broad and wide Makgadikgadi salt pans and never disappoints. The service and food is consistently above board and their accommodation is good value for money with an option for every budget. I love 
their safari tents, which have a great outdoor shower, are spacious and well-appointed with big, soft beds. Check with reception if there’s water on the pans and book a drive to see the flamingoes at the nearby Nata Bird Sanctuary.

Cost: A twin-bed Luxury Safari Tent costs about R1100 per night (sleeps two) and a three-hour drive to the 
pans costs about R290 per person including one drink.
Contact: underonebotswanasky.com

11. Shayamoya Bush Camp

Pongola, KwaZulu-Natal

Sonya spying on birds busy by the water’s edge, while a curious hippo watched us float past on Pongola Dam.

This rustic and secluded self-catering bush camp is built around the biggest tamboti tree you’ll ever see, with a sociable braai area, open-plan kitchen and four comfortably furnished two-sleeper dome tents. Everything is gas or solar-powered, the water is hot and the loos flush. A 4×4 isn’t necessary, but you’ll need a high-clearance vehicle. Keep an eye on and an ear out for Nandi, the resident spotted owl, who might stop by your room for a visit.

(They also have a lodge: if you don’t stay in their comfortable wood, wicker and white four-star rooms, at least pop in to sample their five-star food, or have a drink and enjoy an incredible view from the bar and deck.)

Cost: From R320 a person a night (minimum four people, maximum eight).
Contact: shayamoya.co.za

12. Guma Lagoon Camp

Okavango, Botswana 

Looking out from the deck at Guma Lagoon Camp. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

If tiger fishing is on your bucket list, this is the place to do it. Close to Seronga in Botswana, Guma Lagoon Camp has 12 canvas chalets and seven campsites. Each chalet has a private view of the lagoon and arranged in a network around lush lawns. You can self-cater in the communal kitchen or eat from the set menu at the restaurant (dinner is from roughly R170 per person). Guma can only be accessed in a 4×4. The camp is about 10 kilometres from the closest village for good reason – the floodplains – but its prime position is unique and one of the few set on a lagoon in this gorgeous heritage site.

Cost: From R1400 per tented unit.
Contact: guma-lagoon.com

13. Baviaanskloof Tented Camp

Baviaanskloof, Eastern Cape

The temporary tented camp at Baviaanskloof. Photo supplied.

Operational between 15 December 2016 and 15 January 2017 this camp is on the banks of the Baviaanskloof River and is a great place to chill or hike and look for rhino in the Mage-Reserve. The site accommodates 20 guests in 10 tents and all meals are included. Book out the whole thing!

Cost: From R1 450 per person
Contact: mobiletentedcamp.co.za

Also read: In photos: Baviaanskloof’s Leopard Trail

14. 7 Passes Tented Camp

Wilderness, Western Cape

The lakeside view from the tent. Photo by Michelle Hardie.

Time stands still here. Six lakeside luxury tents for families, doubles and singles, hug the shoreline ‒ I spent time sitting on the deck of mine watching the water through the trees, shards of the Outeniqua Mountains peeking through, while listening to frogs, their sound broken occasionally by a long- distance moo of cattle on neighbouring farms. This is a rural haven for anyone wanting respite from the drudge of city rigour. There are rods for black bass fishing, or take a picnic and row across the lake to the bird hide. Look out for the breeding fish eagles, and if you find crab scales and fish bones on the deck of your tent, it means the giant kingfishers have been hunting. There’s so much to do in the area, such as cycling and mountain biking, canoeing and kloofing. Breakfast and dinner are served in the boma.

Cost:From R1290 a tent (sleeps two)
Contact: 7passes.co.za

15. Tlopi Tented Camp

Marakele National Park, Limpopo Province 

The view over the dam at Tlopi Tented Camp in Marakele National Park. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Tlopi Tented Camp is an hour from the main gate and set around a dam with mountain views. An elephant was sucking away at the water when I drove in. The camp is unfenced and each tent is set on a deck overlooking the water, with a braai and spacious kitchen area. It’s in the Big Five section of the park (which is separated into two areas; Bontle is home to rhino and the Tlopi side has lion, cheetah and ellies). You can drive up to Lenong View Point for crazy views and there’s a chance of seeing the endangered Cape vultures.

Cost: From R1275 a unit (sleeps two).
Contact: sanparks.org

16. Wolfkop Luxury Camping Villages

Citrusdal, Western Cape

Tented pitched right on the Olifants River in Citrusdal. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

The N7 shoots up the West Coast, determined and fearless. It sprints north towards Namibia and when presented with mountains, simply snakes up the ascending Piekenierskloof Pass leaving the Swartland in smoke. At the bottom of the fertile Olifants River Valley you can glamp on the banks of the crystal clear water at the Wolfkop Luxury Camping Village where the tents are already pitched. Percale linen, a cooler box and electric lighting are included – just bring clothes and food. Citrusdal is roughly two hours from Cape Town.

Cost: From R225 per person.
Contact: citrusdalaccommodation.co.za

In the mountains

17. Little Wing teepee camp

Underberg, KwaZulu-Natal

Unusual Teepes at Little Wing Tented Camp. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

An unusual tented camp this self-catering teepee homestead is best booked as a group. Four tents each sleep two comfortably (squeeze kids in on single mattresses) and face a central firepit-cum-braai area beside a trout-filled dam. You can walk along the river below the property, hike in nearby Cobham Nature Reserve (R40 pp and kids R20), or tackle Sani Pass ‒ both are roughly 20 kilometres away. The area is great for mountain biking, or hop on a horse for R150 each (kids get pony rides for free). Tents are spacious and have bohemian touches such as dream catchers. There’s electricity, gas heaters, extra blankets and a fully kitted communal open-air kitchen, but bring towels. The camp is close to a main dirt road, but it exudes a secluded feel.

Cost: From R900 a tent (sleeps two)
Contact: safarinow.com

18. Lakeview Tented Camp, Camdeboo National Park

Graaf Reinet, Eastern Cape

In Camdeboo, a short, 1,5-kilometre hiking trail joins the best viewpoints over the Valley of Desolation. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

One of South Africa’s smallest national parks, Camdeboo is no wilderness. Instead, historical buildings lie within sight of herds of plains game, harking back to a time when the Karoo’s wild animals would walk through town. They still sometimes do. Camdeboo National Park surrounds Graaf-Reinet, and is home to the gorgeous Valley of Desolation. Lakeview Tented Camp consists of four rustic, furnished tents. Each two-sleeper has a braai unit, fridge, table and chairs; bedding and towels are also provided. There are communal showers and toilets, and a shared kitchen is equipped with stove plates, cooking and eating utensils, and a microwave.

Cost: From R650 a tent (sleeps two)
Contact: sanparks.org

Near the sea

19. Bhanga Nek Tent Camp

Kosi Bay, KwaZulu-Natal

Bhanga Nek is just 30 metres away from the beach. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Surrounded by lush trees and shrubs, this camp is tucked away in the iSimangaliso Wetland Park and just 30 metres away from a gorgeous long sandy beach. It’s very rustic: canvas tents on wooden platforms with a few showers and flushing toilets surrounded by reeds on a concrete floor, but that just adds to its charm. A 4×4 is required and the only amenities is a donkey boiler.

Cost: R420 per person sharing, camping R160 per person.
Contact: Tel 0828573363, jenny.reservations@vodamail.co.za

Also read: Your top off-the-grid destinations in South Africa

20. West Coast Luxury Tents

Elands Bay, Western Cape 

Sleep among vegetated sand dunes. Photo by Helen Walne.

Tucked in sandveld behind dunes, a few hundred metres from an unspoilt beach, this tented camp ‒ comprising three double-sleepers and one group enclave ‒ demands nothing but relaxation. There’s not much to ‘do’ here ‒ no game, no spa, no boma and no fancy restaurant ‒ and because of that, one is forced to submit to extreme chilling: afternoon snoozing; walking along the beach (40 kilometres of it) accompanied by scurrying oystercatchers; clambering to the top of the dunes to watch sunsets; sitting around the star-lit braai. The en-suite tents are comfortable and spacious, each with a fully equipped kitchen and a shaded area at the back. Amiable owner Reinhard Uebel will go out of his way to ensure you’re happy ‒ and will even welcome your pooches.

Cost: From R850 a tent
Contact: westcoastluxurytents.co.za

21. Tartaruga Maritima Tented Camp

Ponta Malongane, Mozambique

The forest setting and interiors at Tartaruga Maritima. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Tartaruga Maritima tented camp is well priced, placed as number one on TripAdvisor and exceptionally tranquil, surrounded by coastal forest.Tartaruga means turtle in Portuguese. If you visit between November and February, you may be lucky enough to spot these ancient reptiles laying eggs on the beach, or even see the hatchlings. Camp supervisor Moses Tembe has a wealth of knowledge on the best things to do and eat in the area and he’s an incredible host – nothing is too much trouble. The amenities are faultless, service is excellent and the beach absolutely gorgeous. The central self-catering area has private fridge space and killer views over the open ocean, and each evening your table can be set if you plan to dine here.

Cost: From R495 per person sharing
Contact: tartaruga.co.za

Also read: The complete guide to Ponta Malongane

22. Namaqua Flower Camps

Namaqua National Park, Northern Cape

Get the best blooming view from these pop-up camps. Photo supplied.

Namaqua Flower Camps in collaboration with SANParks is only open once a year for a limited time. Mobile camps are set up near the bloom-viewing hots spots. Skilpad Flower Camp is open from 11 August to 10 September 2017 and the rate includes coffee, rusks, breakfast and dinner (lunch is an optional extra).

Cost: From R2475 per person sharing
Contact: flowercamps.co.za

23. Pitch it anywhere

This new outdoor experience means the only thing you might need on your next camping checklist is a boarding pass

Hey Pioneer tents you can rent. Photo by Tyson Jopson.

Purists may scoff at the idea of having someone set up your tent for you and then strike it when you’re done. But what if the campsite you want to visit is at the other end of the country? We sent a tester to the Tankwa Karoo to find out if there was a way that you could still camp in comfort after a flight from, say, Joburg. Good news: you can … as long as it’s in the Western Cape. Keen campers can now rent stylish gear from Hey Pioneer, who supply old-school-style cotton tents (the rad kind your gramps used), mattresses, linen, a table and chairs, solar lanterns and a camp kitchen kit that you can either pick up, have delivered to a campsite of your choice or, for a sweet glamping weekend with friends, have set up for you, ready to roll.

Cost: Rates for self-set-up are from R350 per night in a Range Tent (sleeps two), while the glamping option in a large Bell Tent is from R500 per night for the first two people and R100 per extra person (sleeps four). Both options exclude delivery and set-up fees. (Prices are on request and are based on location.) Extras such as braai gear, cooking utensils, cooler boxes and additional tables and chairs are charged for separately.

Contact:heypioneer.co.za

The vibey heart of Cape Town is filled with plenty of interesting places and people and it’s best explored on foot as every side road and backstreet tells a story. Here are some of the main things to do in Woodstock to get you started!

 
The colourful neighbourhood of Woodstock originally began with a few fishermen’s houses and farm cottages, situated two kilometres east of Cape Town, on what became Albert Road. It has been through many phases, but today Woodstock is undergoing an urban renewal with many new buildings and businesses, making it a hip and happening neighbourhood.

Woodstock is filled with plenty of interesting places and people and it’s best explored on foot as every side road and backstreet tells a story. However, here are some of the main attractions to get you started!

Roam down Roodebloem Road

1. Bargain brunch

Roodebloem Road has many restaurants and bars, but if you are looking for great breakfast or lunch spot, then Salisbury’s is the place to go. Their prices are so good that I when I re-visited them I asked if they still had their R50 lunch specials – turns out they have never had lunch specials, they just have good prices (and most of their menu items are still about R50). You can also buy deli goods, craft beer, wine and take-aways if you don’t feel like cooking dinner. Seating is limited, but if you go slightly out of the breakfast and lunch rush hours, you should find a spot to enjoy a latte. I highly recommend their pies and wraps! While you are there, take a look across the road – the Parkers Superette (orginally S. E. Parker General Provision Grocer) is one of the original stores in area and has been in the same family for four generations. Go buy a chocolate or a coke and support a local family!

Salisbury’s is a good spot to start the day with their reasonably priced breakfasts and lunches.

2. Vintage clothes and antiques on Roodebloem

Roodebloem Road also has a few vintage and antique shops tucked in-between the burger joints and craft beer spots. Dress Me Up on Salisbury Road (opposite Salisbury’s) is stuffed to the brim with vintage and retro clothing and a few Sally Louw ceramic pieces. You’ll also find a small selection of interesting vinyls! Collect Me A Story further down Roodebloem Road has all sorts of paraphernalia to snoop through from furniture to shop dummies, books, tins and toys. It’s the sort of place where you never know what you may find and where every item has a story!

Left: Dress Me Up; Right: Tell Me a Story Antiques

3. Enjoy cocktails with a view

The rooftop with a view of the Mother City at Jamaica Me Crazy is the best spot to be at this much-loved and popular Caribbean-style spot – unless it’s windy! The food is good and reasonably priced, but they are famous for their great cocktails and even better happy hours. They have Monday specials, a pub quiz night on Tuesdays and host various other events on a fairly regular basis.

Amble along Albert Road

4. From baking biscuits to beaded bowls

From a Saturday market to games and galleries, restaurants, local crafts and designer stores, you’ll find a lot to keep you entertained at The Old Biscuit Mill. Having become quite a Woodstock tourist attraction, it’s one of those places that you either love or loathe, especially on Saturdays when every visitor to Cape Town flocks to the Neighbourgoods Market. If you are going to go to the market I would suggest you go early! Otherwise I would recommend you visit on another day so you have plenty of space to look around the many interesting shops and galleries and grab a bite to eat without being jostled and getting frazzled.

A market, trinkets, art galleries and plenty of people can be found at The Old Biscuit Mill.

5. Shop for up-cycled furniture

Not far from The Old Biscuit Mill and close to the Salt River Circle you’ll find ReCreate, a little shop filled with all sorts of clever things! Owner, Katie Thompson, salvages items that are no longer required for their original purpose and turns them into something else. Suitcases get upholstered to be chairs, bottle tops become beer mats, vintage golf clubs make excellent towel rails and keys from computer keyboards are turned into fridge magnets. You’ll be amazed at what has been created from what may be considered old and useless! You can also enjoy a cup of Deluxe Coffee while you browse through up-cycled furniture and vintage Koeksister cutters.

Deluxe coffee and up-cycled goods at RECreate.

6. Play giant Jenga

When you settle into the relaxed atmosphere at Casa Nostra Bar, you’ll find it hard to leave! Outdoors has seating with a street view, while inside you’ll find comfy couches and a bar with a built-in chess set. The owner and staff are incredibly friendly with an “our house is your house” attitude and their reasonably-priced meals are prepared before your eyes on an outdoor grill by a fairly entertaining chef. Although I don’t suggest you make this your first stop in Woodstock as you’ll suddenly find the day has gone – especially if you get stuck into the giant Jenga!

The relaxed atmosphere at Casa Nostra Bar may cause you never to leave.

7. Real food made with love

You are going to have a tough time choosing what to eat at the Cinta Food Market! However, I can heartily recommend the potato and fennel samoosas from The Little Bo-Kaap Kitchen – although she almost had me doing a toss up between the tomato bredie and the banana fried with Masala spices. You’ll also find Thai Street Food, a juice bar, coffee and Mexican fare. Cinta means love in Malay and if you love wholesome home-cooked food, then you’ll definitely fall in love love this little foodie spot. It’s a good option for vegetarians too as there are many meat-free options.

Wholesome food made with love at Cinta Food Market.

8. Let your curiosity get the better of you

Curiosity had me popping into Vamp Furniture thanks to their fabulous bright yellow doors and funky sunflower mural. Here you’ll find up-cycled retro furniture, quirky collectables and a range of items by local designers, from ceramics to stationery. It’s a great little spot to while away the time, whether you are a serious collector or simply curious. Plus you are bound to leave with something you never knew you needed…

You’ll find something you never knew you needed at Vamp Furniture.

9. Get the shabby chic look

Just up the road from the Old Biscuit Mill is World of Rustic Frames, where piles of old wooden window frames and whitewashed benches flow out of the shop and onto the street. Old window frames make for interesting photo frames, but if you prefer a good old-fashioned frame crafted from aged wood, then this is the place to go as they have a mind-boggling range, all made from recycled wood. They also make furniture to your specifications.

Everything at Rustic Frames is created from recycled wood.

10. Armoires, art and antiques

Woodstock is certainly brimming with antiques and second-hand goods, but there’s something a little different about Wauhaus. It has more upmarket items, but also has a sort of unsettling feel! I put it down to the fact that many of the items in there are from churches, so prepare to be stared at by angels while stepping past copper baths and under chandeliers. It’s a fascinating place and one where everything is guaranteed have an interesting history!

All the items in Wauhaus are guaranteed to have an interesting history.

11. Coffee and creative spaces

A maze of creative spaces including an antique shop, a gift shop with recycled products, an organic deli, a coffee shop, a tattoo parlour and a burger joint stroke diner all make up what is The Woodstock Co-Op. Inside, All Women Recycling makes gift boxes out of plastic bottles, Phoenix Moon has beautifully crafted furniture and some quirky art pieces, Captain Kirwin’s Coffee has latte’s and espresso’s (and a charming “caffeine dealer”) and the Three Feathers Diner has impressive wall murals,  classic car collection and burgers. It’s the sort of place where you could get lost for hours, which is a good thing as you will be supporting local entrepreneurs.

A maze of creative spaces and eating spots at the Woodstock Co-Op.

12. Grab a brew

Craft beer breweries are all the rage and you’ll find a few in Woodstock where you can enjoy a cold one, along with a meal. Devil’s Peak Brewing Company, situated in an impressive building that you can’t miss on Cecil Road, just off the Main Road. Apart from the great views, they have a great burger special on Tuesdays, Saturdays and Sundays where you can get a cheeseburger (there’s also a vegetarian patty option) served with a side of fries and a half pint of one of their lagers or a carafe of their wine for R55. They also have a daily happy hour, half-price menu on Mondays and a beer and wing special on Wednesdays. Woodstock Brewery in Albert Street also has some great daily specials in their Woodstock Grill & Tap, including two-for-one burgers for R80 on Mondays, while on Saturdays you can get a one litre jug of beer with a choice of mini burgers, calamari, bitterballen, vegetable spring rolls or biltong for R80. A good option for a Saturday celebration with friends!

For something a little different, pop into the Brewer’s Co-Op, also on Albert Road. Apart from craft beers and ciders at a very reasonable price (starting at R20 a pint), an interesting ceiling design and quirky faucet handles, they have a unique concept in that they provide the space and machinery for their members to make beer and then sell it on the premises. That means you can never tell which beers will be on offer at any given time, but you are generally guaranteed to have 16 different ones to choose from. Plus they have quiz nights every Wednesday night along with various other social events.

Clockwise from left: burger special at Devil’s Peak Brewing Company; Woodstock Brewing Company has a grillroom and deli; interesting faucet handles at Brewers Co-Op.

13. Township-style dop n’ chop

There are are no knives and no forks at aMadoda Braai in Strand Street (off Albert Road) – just a hand bowl to wash your hands. Now that’s a braai! Choose from De Quickie, an Ama Chow Chow, De Big Mix or De Feast and tuck into braai’d chicken drumsticks, pork chops, boerewors, Xhosa bread and Amachakalak salad served on tin plates. If you want to cook yourself, you can buy a braai pack that has heaps of meat and includes a braai grid, hot coals and secret spice. The giant mural depicting township life makes for a great backdrop to long tables designed for sharing, plus there’s with a pool and foosball table. While it’s something that’s a little different to the usual Woodstock eateries, it is slightly off the main drag and in a fairly quiet backstreet, so probably a good idea not to linger too late into the night.

aMadoda Braai brings township braai vibes to Woodstock.

14. Have a tequila!

The Fat Cactus is almost a household name in Cape Town, but the branch in Albert Road is one of my favourites because I like to watch the Woodstock world go by from their verandah while enjoying an ice-cold margarita! Apart from the usual Mexican fare like tacos and quesadillas, they have a great selection of tequila, from El Jimador to Olmeca and Patron. Vegans will be pleased to know that they can also tuck into a plate of nachos as they have a non-dairy cheese option. Sangrita Tequila Bar (next door to Brewer’s Co-Op) is another great spot for a tequila as they also have a fairly wide range, including Patron, Don Julio and Centinela However, not all their tequilas listed are always in stock, so it’s best to go at the end of the week when stock should’ve arrived. The décor is charming with comfy couches and framed photos of Mexican architecture and people on the walls. I wasn’t that impressed with my Chorizo, Jalepeno and Feta Balls starter, but I did love their Tequila Mojito!

Left: Sangrita’s Tequila Bar; Right: Fat Cactus in Albert Road.

15. Tuck into vegan dishes and treats

Pioneers of the raw and vegan restaurant movement in Cape Town, Raw & Roxy is a small bohemian space that also offers raw cooking lessons. The restaurant space is tiny, but everything is made with a big heart and judging by the people going in and out buying ingredients and smoothies, it’s popular with those in the know. Raw main meals include lasagne, zucchini pasta, red Thai curry, a tapas platter (so you can try a little bit of everything) and raw vegan sushi. There are also plenty of sweet treats to choose from, including a raw magnum ice-cream – raw, frozen cashew and coconut and cocoa on a stick in mint or vanilla flavour.

Raw & Roxy serves up delicious vegan meals and treats that even meat-lovers will enjoy.

16. Take a graffiti tour

Juma Mkwela offers a Woodstock Graffiti Tour where you can see over 40 impressive works by artists such as Faith47, Jack Fox (Faith’s son), Freddy Sam (curator of the street art project), Nard-Star, Masai Lou, Spazio, Giya, Dodie Boy and Daleast (Faith’s husband) to name a few. It’s a great way to spend a fascinating two hours while taking in the neighbourhood.

Woodstock is home to plenty of beautiful murals and graffiti.

17. Have afternoon tea

Saturday afternoons at Bread Café in The Bromwell Boutique Mall sees live bands crooning classic tunes while you sip on a glass of wine and spread apple & chocolate butter onto a slice of banana loaf. It’s lazy, languid and quite stylish without breaking the bank. Apart from breakfasts, lunches and gourmet sandwiches, they also serve a morning tea, a champagne tea, a business tea, a luxury high tea and a late afternoon tea. On Friday afternoon you can enjoy a sundown jazz session to get you relaxed and ready for the weekend.

Bread Cafe at The Bromwell makes for a stylish spot to enjoy afternoon tea, or a glass or two of wine.

18. Food trucks and Doc Martins

Another one-stop community shop is the Salt Circle Arcade, housed in a bright yellow building near the Salt River Circle. There are second-hand books, shoes (including Doc Martins), eco-furniture, hand-made jewellery and eclectic items for the home and for gifts. If all that shopping makes you feel peckish, you’ll find food trucks in the courtyard serving burgers and Italian fare.

Browse through books, shop for shoes and gifts and tuck into food truck fare at Salt Circle Arcade.

19. Bicycles and baristas

The first thing you’ll notice about The Woodstock Exchange is how bicycle-friendly it is, with bicycle racks almost everywhere. Then you’ll notice a massive dog sculpture and a bench that’s a swing. It’s all part of the building’s creative energy, which includes a yoga and meditation studio, a tea emporium, a coffee roastery and of course, a bicycle café. There’s plenty of space outside to enjoy a cup of coffee or hang out with your mates on a Friday afternoon when they have their Live Sessions, featuring a local band with no cover charge.

Not only cyclists will have a good time at The Woodstock Exchange. There’s yoga, cafes, open spaces and more.

Victoria Road bargains and bread

Victoria Road in Woodstock is also lined with second-hand shops and is perfect for pavement bargains, but is not quite as trendy as Albert Road. You will also have to deal with a lot of taxi traffic which can be a bit nerve-wrecking! But it’s worth it if you are wanting a real bargain!

20. Lunch with the locals

You can’t miss the bright orange building on the corner of Queen Street and Victoria Street, home to New Brighton Bakery who serve up breakfasts, various bakes (muffins, cakes, breads and cookies) and light meals (burgers, pies, sandwiches, curries, lasagne and soup). It’s a homely environment, complete with a bookshelf filled with books if you feel like reading while enjoying a cuppa. However, the tables are large and meant for sharing, so you are more likely to get chatting to interesting folk from the neighbourhood. Don’t be in a hurry though as they take their time!

On your way out, pop next door to Mr R Bargain Shop where you’ll find everything from door and window frames to washers and tools. If you need anything for your home, you are very likely to find it here and at a bargain price!

Left: Bargain household goods in Queen Street; Right: New Brighton Bakery

If you know of a special spot in Woodstock, let us know in the comments below!