Travel has always played a significant role in the makeup of vast works of literature: in fact, I would go as far as arguing that there is no greater medium through which one travels across time, imagination and ideas than literature.

We spoke to some of our favourite South African writers about how their experiences of travel inform their work. And after this, I can confirm that indeed, to write, is in many ways to travel.

If you are around Cape Town between 7th and the 11th of September, make sure to catch all these fantastic writers at the Open Book Festival.
 
Here are 5 of the writers we spoke to in their own words:
 

Achille Mbembe

Achille Mbembe has written extensively on African history and politics, he writes columns for newspapers interrogating race and class, his work has been translated into various languages and editions. The Wits University Printing Press recently released an African Edition of his book, On The Post Colony.

Photo by Manuel Braun.

I travel even when I do not move physically. I love spending long hours alone in silence. This allows my mind to free itself from the weight of its surroundings, to wander and to explore reality. For me, this is part of what travel is all about. It is about releasing the soul from the shackles it is tethered to, the body included. The soul can then undertake a process of transfiguration before coming back to better reanimate the body.

What’s your ideal way to get out of the rut of routine and recharge?

Precisely by experiencing those deep moments when the mind is left to itself. The best thoughts I have ever had have come from those moments of silence. Without them, I cannot think or write. Sometimes I also let my mind float, as if I am flying above the elements. Otherwise, I love cooking. I am also a soccer addict. I can spend long hours on a couch watching soccer games on television.

What’s your fondest childhood travel memory?

It may not be the fondest but it is certainly the most dramatic. It was the first time I took the train. A cousin was getting married and the entire family had to attend the wedding. I was 6. Trains in those days were always full. People travelled with huge loads of things in containers of all kinds. During this first experience on the train, I travelled for 60 kilometres next to a goat. The poor fellow did not seem to mind. We then had to catch a bus to reach the locality where the wedding was taking place. The road was bumpy and dusty. The whole thing was so physically uncomfortable that my mother could not stop throwing up.

Check out Achille Mbembe’s talks at the Open Book Festival here.
 
 

Bongani Madondo

Bongani Madondo is author of the Hot Type (2007), I’m Not Your Weekend Special: Portraits on the Life and Style & Politics of Brenda Fassie (2014) and his most recent book, Sigh the Beloved Country which came out this year and promises readers a thrill of the South Afircan artistic landscape. Madondo has written for publications such as The New York Times, Rolling Stone, Sunday Times and Marie Claire. He is mostly known and celebrated for his social and artistic commentary.

Photo by Victor Dlamini.

Travelling and the imaginary, as well as futuristic time travelling, has shaped not only the writer I am but the spirit and person I am. I’m a travel writer in essence, even when I do not work in the packaged travel genre. My very writing… half, if not the entire scope of my new book ‘Sigh, the Beloved Country’ is basically premised on the concept of a writer as a travelling jester, intruder, out of towner or rock ‘n roll scribe tripping with some of the most mind-bending music bands of the time. I imagine I must have worked in a travelling circus in another life.

What’s your ideal way to break away from the demands of daily life?

Writers, at least this writer has no such luxury as to ‘break away from the demands of life’ if by that you mean a break away to a specific destination. My life revolves around the axis of stress, perpetual dance in the shadow of poverty, beauty, music, and two naughty children. It is a life filled by the mundanity of preparing kids for school, listening to any of Johnny Cash’s “American Series” albums and a 24-hour mad dash to meet this or that deadline. Being Middle Class can be both beautiful as well as spirit depriving experience. I’m fortunate though in that my wife allows me to go on these long trips around the country… just to clear up my thoughts and prepare for a new book or film or lecture.

What’s your fondest childhood travel memory?

Travelling in a Valiant, known colloquially as “Valaza 6-Mabone”, in my neck of the woods in the Pretoria and Hammanskraal area back in the early 1980s. My mom and a few of us little banana peels “stouters” will prepare days in advance, made sure our button down starched shirts are ironed and the lovely self-belt Huckleberry Finn style three-quarter suits are in good, dry clean quality shape and that our black kinky hair was shiny and smelled just as our flower bed in my granny’s house. All that for a local trip to visit our ailing granny Koppotjie Nkomo at the local hospital. The prize, of course, was the anxiety of having to wait for the Valiant down next to the local football grounds on a sunny Sunday, momma clad in a bell-shaped floral dress and rocking an African braided hair do they called a ‘plait.’ Fuck, it was magical.

My first longest trip was taking five buses apiece, in a relay style drop off and wait for another bus, to a place called Rugtesloot… I was 12 and it felt like I was heading to a place on the dark side of the moon. It was beautiful and scary. I was going on a midyear school break to visit a family friend… not even my friend… my mother’s friend!

Check out Bongani Madondo’s events at the Open Book Festival here.
 
 

Nakhane Toure

Nakhane Toure is a writer and musician, and his debut novel, Piggy Boy’s Blues, was published in 2015. Nakhane is also an award-winning musician with two albums out, Brave Confusion and his most recent, The Laughing Son which also came out in 2015.

Photo by The Con.

I think a big chunk of my novel occurs on the road. People travelling by car from city to city, and their experiences with that, whether it be for work or for leisure. When I was a child, and actually right up until I was in my late teens my family and I went on a lot of road trips. So for me, travel was always about the hardness of tarmac, landscape, praying that a tyre would not burst, listening to music while looking at the stars at night. That reverie – it’s almost cinematic – informed how I think, how I dream, how I work on ideas. Just sitting there in one space, waiting for something good to happen.

How do you break out of daily routine to recharge?

I’ve recently started taking part in a class run by Paige Holmes at the Dance Factory called Body Wisdom. It’s a voice and body movement class that uses a lot of Arthur Lessac practices. It’s essentially a class for performers to find a place in their body that is original within them, harness that, develop it and to make sure that the performer does not burn out. It involves quite a bit of meditation and yogic exercises. That has been my saviour recently. I’ve got a very very busy head.

Where do you mostly prefer to write and why?

Alone, in a room where there is complete silence. I’m distracted quite easily, so I have to be willful in getting myself away from people or things that can distract me. Also, when I’m in that space I know that I only have one objective here, and that is to work.

Check out Nakhane Toure’s events at the Open Book Festival here.

Rebecca Davis

Rebecca Davis contributes for the Daily Maverick, the Mail & Guardian and the Sunday Times. Her first book, Best White and Other Anxious Delusions, was published in 2015. She is well known and celebrated for social commentary with a touch of wit and humour.

 
I think being fortunate enough to have had exposure to worlds beyond South Africa has been extremely beneficial to my perspective as a writer. It’s so easy to get consumed by this country, in all its good and bad, and we tend to forget that many of our challenges and successes are not as exceptional as we think. When I travel I also always look forward to gaining more of an understanding of how the rest of the world sees us. On a more basic level, travel almost always makes for good writing fodder – and when you’re required to produce a lot of content, that helps! I do feel extraordinarily lucky to have visited some really memorable places, from a floating village in Nigeria to a gay old-age home in Sweden to a nightclub in Ibiza where they flooded the place with water at midnight and we all swam around fully clothed…

What’s your fondest childhood travel memory?

Like many families, we used to go to the same spot on holiday every year: to Wilderness, on the Garden Route. I still think it’s one of the most spectacular spots in South Africa, and the winding route that takes you there is magnificent.

What is your favourite place in South Africa to visit & why?

There’s a little town called Barrydale outside the Karoo which is one of my favourite getaways. There is almost literally nothing to do there, which is precisely its appeal. It is so peaceful that you basically start yawning as you drive in.

Check out Rebecca Davis’s talks at Open Book Festival here.
 
 

Yolisa Qunta

Yolisa Qunta is an associate editor at JucyAfrica and a regular columnist for allforwomen.co.za. Yolisa spent her formative years in Zimbabwe and Botswana as a child to political exiles and returned to South Africa with her family upon the country’s first democratic elections. She compiled a collection of essays by young South Africans on what it means to live in South Africa today, ‘Writing what we like: A new generation speaks“, published earlier this year.

Travel is very liberating in the sense that when you are away from the familiar you have the freedom to become someone else should you choose to. On the other side of the world where nobody knows you a little reinvention is actually a great idea. When I’m outside South Africa I like the idea of being anonymous and asking the locals the sort of direct questions I can get away with as a curious tourist. I scribble some highlights in my journal when I’m on a trip. But mostly I wait till I’m home and all the impressions, textures and sensations are in some orderly fashion mentally then I write away.  

What is your favourite place in South Africa to visit & why?

I can never get enough of Durban. The fact that the water is warm enough to swim in is a winner as I live in Cape Town and that doesn’t happen here. The food is amazing, the locals are awesome and the scenery makes you dream a little. Also, those parties that carry on until dawn…

What’s your fondest childhood travel memory?

The first time I ever flew on a plane: we were travelling from Botswana to Zimbabwe as unaccompanied minors. We got to meet the pilots and look at the cockpit. I found the air hostesses incredibly glamourous and the whole experience thrilled me. Even airline food was a novelty.

Check out Yolisa Qunta’s events at the Open Book Festival here.

Here is a photo of Thailand you have seen before.

There’s nothing really wrong with it: like the image of a white-haired old man when we think ‘professor’, it’s just stereotypical. It’s also not the full picture.

I was standing around a hip bar last week, drinking Old Fashioneds with a friend of mine, talking about travel. (Occupational hazard.) He swirled his drink, took a sip, and said ‘ugh, I’ll never go back to Thailand. It’s so overexposed. Any charm it ever had has long been destroyed by now. I’m going to Laos.’

Wandering along the Chiang Dao Nature Trail alone, you just have to hope that signs like these aren’t warning against anything serious.

 
Three months ago, I would’ve agreed with him. But I know better now, and I’ve never been so delighted to be wrong. For our September issue, I was sent to explore Thailand – and I learnt that there are still places you can go that are affordable, beautiful, and far enough from the beaten track to feel like you’re the only person in the world.

The sceptic’s guide to Thailand is on sale now – but in the meanwhile, I hope these photos give you an idea of what it’s like in the lesser-known corners of the Land of Smiles.

Calm waters, and the glittering roof of a Trang temple.

Tea with breakfast: every time you think you’ve found the limit of Things You Can Do With Rice, you are wrong.

In Chiang Dao, I had the pleasure of discovering a valley of cherry blossoms. I hiked there the whole day, and had the entire valley to myself.

There are many ways to work on the sea: moving fish towards people, or moving people towards fish. This captain did both.

This little spot by the river is only a few metres from Ko Kia, one of the best seafood restaurants in Trang.

Even if you can read Thai signs, the lichen can still beat you; coconuts are as delicious as they are ubiquitous.

Sail the world, strange hand-written note tacked to a beachside tree? Yeah. Don’t mind if I do.

The tiny island of Koh Mook is full of distant kayakers and wary cats.

In Chiang Mai, this woman sold grilled parcels of rice, wrapped in banana leaves; meanwhile just down the road, hipster coffee spots sold flat whites.

People are strange, when you’re a stranger. The bustling streets of Chiang Mai Night Market are a riot of smells, people, and buskers.

I met this fellow in Chiang Dao. We didn’t speak any common languages, but enthusiasm for cigarettes (like sport) is universally understandable.

This roadside shrine is one of many lining the side of the road leading to the National Park. There’s a spring here: it’s customary to pray and splash your face with the water.

You’ll go past scenes like this on your way to the Chiang Dao nature trail – and that’s before the trail even starts.

In this clearing, every tree was wearing a beautiful orange sash. It was equal parts moving and eerie.

One of the hikes took me through a delightfully unexpected bamboo forest. It seemed almost animate, with its creaking and swaying.

The Sceptic’s Guide to Thailand, in our September issue.

This story first appeared in the September 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our September issue features affordable destinations around SA, great photographic hides, and a Thailand travel guide. On shelves from 22 August.

Maps Maponyane wears many hats. Entrepreneur, actor, model, presenter and designer – no wonder he travels a lot. For our hotel of the month this September, I spoke to the often voted sexiest and most stylish man in the country about his favourite hotel, memories and highlights from his childhood and work travels. When asked how he keeps the messy process of travelling sexy, Maps offers us a simple yet timeless tip to help us look & feel good on our travels.

Maps Maponyane at his favourite hotel in Johannesburg, 54 on Bath.

You have friends coming from out of town. Where would you recommend they stay?

54 on Bath has a beautiful country feel in the middle of the city. The rooms have great character, and they’re spacious. I love the grey hue that runs through a lot of the rooms, and each one has a quaint balcony with views to enjoy. It has a Gatsby feel I love – there’s a white grand piano in reception and old-school elevators to the underground parking.

What moments stand out from your childhood travels?

My fondest memories are really just being with the family and going for long drives and finding fun places that a child would enjoy. We’d
go with my cousins to Warmbaths, back when it was Aventura. That was my favourite holiday. We’d play with the other kids and there were waterslides and a little theme park. And we’d have braais. It was quite simple. You had to create the memories.

… and now that you travel a lot for work. Which trip stands out for you?

Going to New York in December 2015 for an Adidas shoot. I got sucked into the great drama of New York, and the energy and hustle and bustle. It definitely made me dream a whole lot bigger. The thing is that New York is not really America; it’s people from all over the world and there is a great individuality that runs through it. There is a lot of inspiration from that diversity.

How do you decide what to do when you’re in a new place?

When I get to a new city I always try to walk as much as possible. That’s how you have the full experience, by getting lost in a city. Finding a local and getting advice from them has always worked for me. Food also usually dictates my decisions. The food is something that stands out in New York. Apparently, you could live there for 50 years and go to a restaurant every single day for breakfast, lunch and supper, and you wouldn’t have been to every restaurant! How crazy is that?

Which is your favourite city in the world?

I know you want just one but it’s tough – I have three. Venice for its romance. It’s a very beautiful place. Barcelona. I love Barca. It has amazing history, culture and heritage. I’m a big fan of Gaudí’s architecture and artwork and his parks. And New York. As much as it can eat you up, for where I am right now in my life, New York is definitely it.

You went to Nigeria a few months ago for the Africa Movie Academy Awards. How was that?

It was … eish, Nigeria is on another level of busy and intensity. I found it quite overwhelming in terms of how things work there. The awards were in Port Harcourt, so I didn’t get to Lagos, but I plan to go back again very soon. It’s not for the faint-hearted. If you are adventurous, and not picky about where you stay or go, then Nigeria is a definite must.

What has been your ultimate travel adventure?

It was the first time I went overseas, in 2009. We did a big Euro trip for five or six weeks – to England, France, Spain, Italy, Germany. That was a great adventure, to be properly immersed in the culture of travel, and from then on I was hooked. I literally work to travel now. I spend most of my money on travel because there is so much value in it. Exposing yourself to as many cultures as possible is priceless.

You’ve been voted SA’s best-dressed man and sexiest man multiple times. How do you keep travel stylish and sexy?

For me, there is no sexier way than to travel light. There is nothing glamorous about lugging around a lot of heavy luggage. The great sexiness about travelling light is that you can always acquire more on your travels. I always buy one or two items – it’s a way to collect great memories. Travelling light also makes things easier. You are always fresh, and always happy to move from place to place. I make sure to pack the great basics that will go with anything: a few pairs of blue jeans, black jeans, walking shoes. A pair of formal shoes. Several comfortable fitted T-shirts. A jersey or two. And sweatpants for travelling – sometimes jeans can be tight and uncomfortable.

A version of this article appears in the September issue available for purchase.

There has always been this great divide between the Southern and Northern suburbs, with most Southern suburbs folk going into a cold sweat the minute they have to cross the invisible border (which is by Century City apparently) and go beyond “The Boerewors Curtain”.

This is definitely true for myself who considers a drive to the Northern Suburbs as a mini roadtrip and one where I am likely to get lost and go into a panic. So when I was given the challenge of going to find out exactly what happens beyond this invisible curtain, I made sure my phone was fully charged so I could consult Google Maps and set out feeling much like the voortrekkers must’ve felt when they left Cape Town for Stellenbosch.

Grab a boerewors roll at Stodels in Bellville.

It turns out that the Northern Suburbs has a lot to offer and, apart from the white bakkies who try run you down while you are trying to find your way to a langarm jol, it’s really not that scary. Everyone was friendly and helpful and I had a great time. So much so that a mini-roadtrip beyond Jip De Jager Drive may become a more frequent affair. Here are 20 things that Southern Suburbanites should do if you decide to follow in my shoes.

1. Go dancing

“When in Rome,” as the saying goes… One should always try out local traditions and a popular local tradition on this side of the world is a night out langarming. It’s not for the faint-hearted or for those with two left feet (like me), but even as a spectator it makes for a good night out. What fascinated me the most was how big the dance floors are (disco ice skating rinks if you will) and how nobody ever seems to bump into one another – it’s the best non-choreographed dancing show I have ever seen! The other thing that I really admired was that in the three places I visited, hardly anyone was peering into their phones, which just goes to show how wonderfully social langarming is.

There are plenty of langarm spots to choose from, but I went to Nikita’s (best priced drinks and a shooter bar with some interesting shooters, along with homemade hamburgers and boerewors rolls available for the midnight munchies), Klipwerf (quiet on Fridays, but very popular on Saturday nights with what seemed a slightly older crowd) and Danskraal (biggest and most crowded with a wide variety of music from 80s to hiphop and Afrikaans pop).

By the way, many langarm jols allow you to bring your own drinks, so pack in your bottles of brandy and some 2-litre Cokes and prepare to dance the night away! Read this blog if you are looking for a place to go – it’s a brilliant and amusing guide.

2. Visit a garden centre

These days, garden centres are not just places to buy plants and fertiliser. Now you can have something to eat, browse shops and let the kids enjoy themselves on the jungle gym. Stodels in Bellville has a café with reasonably priced meals and plenty of activities for the little ones, including play areas (conveniently near the café so parents can keep an eye), sand art, an animal farm, mini-tractor rides and giant water balls. There’s also a pet centre and a snake park (entrance fee R25) with 50 different reptiles on display. The craft shop is also worth a stop as it’s filled with all sorts of handmade goodies and art pieces that are tempting to take home.
Contact: Tel 0219191106, stodels.com

A little further afield in Joostenbergvlakte is the Cape Garden Centre, which is next door to Bugz Play Centre and the Motor Museum. The Village Centre has an assortment of shops, including a beauty salon, an art gallery, a wine cellar, a pet supply story, knickknack and craft shops, coffee brewers and a local goods store. If you are feeling peckish after getting through all that (nevermind all the plants for sale), the Bamboo Garden restaurant (pet-friendly) serves light meals and refreshments, with pensioners deals on a Wednesday. On the weekends you can grab a quick snack or an ice cream from the kiosk outside.
Contact: Tel 0219884137, capegardencentre.co.za

Clockwise from left: The Bamboo Cafe at Cape Garden Centre is pet-friendly; the playground and mini train at Stodels in Bellville will keep kids occupied for hours.

3. Go for a hike

The Tygerberg Nature Reserve covers an area of 309 hectares and boasts 562 different plant species as well as supporting one of the last remnants of the critically endangered Swartland shale renosterveld vegetation type. Hikers, trail runners and nature lovers can enjoy various trails (ranging from easy to more difficult as well as having different lengths) and beautiful views over the entire Peninsula. Those who don’t wish to run or hike can enjoy birdwatching (there are 137 species of birds to look out for), have a picnic at one of the picnic sites, or simply relax and take in the panoramic views. There’s also wheelchair access to the lookout point and a wheelchair-friendly picnic table, so everyone can enjoy a day out. There are two entrances to the nature reserve, one in Totius Street (most of the trails start from here) and the other in Meyboom Avenue. Entrance is R15 for adults and R8 for pensioners and children (3-17 years).

4. Get on your bike

There are over 70 kilometres of flowing single track that run through the wine farms in the Durbanville Wine Valley and alongside the Tygerberg Nature Reserve, with plenty of options for beginners through to serious bikers. The Meerendal cycle route (21km) is suitable for beginners and will take you through vineyards and fynbos and, alongside dams and blue gum forests. Bloemendal’s cycle route is short, but suitable for all levels of fitness. You can enjoy a wine tasting (they are generous with their tastings here) or perhaps some sushi afterwards. Hillcrest Farm’s cycle trail (7.6km) serves as a hub to the outlying trails of Contermanskloof, Majik Forest and Meerendal. Starting at the parking area, the trail takes you around the top of a quarry before heading up through fruit orchards, and then into vineyards along the slopes. The Durbanville Hills cycle route (40km) starts at D’Aria and is a little more strenuous, involving a lot of climbing, but you can you can take your mind off the strain by enjoying the birdlife and rare plants along this scenic route.

The Tygerberg Mountain Biking Club will be able to assist with information on the various routes in the area.
Contact: Tel 0796933177, tygerbergmtb.co.za

5. Be creative

Originally built as a prison and police headquarters in the 1840s, Rust-en-Vrede was declared a National Monument in 1984 and is now home to the The Durbanville Cultural Society who promotes art and culture. The building and grounds are beautiful and inside you’ll find an art gallery, a clay museum, a ceramics gallery, a florist and jewellery makers. You can also sign up for art classes and mosaic classes, or simply enjoy a quiet cup of tea (or glass of wine) with a delicious meal in the café, while listening to classical music. This was my favourite find in the Northern Suburbs and I intend to go back – I may even sign up for mosaic classes! Tip: It’s best to park in the parking provided at Rust-en-Vrede off Church Street.
Contact: Tel 0219764691, rust-en-vrede.com

Rust-En-Vrede in Durbanville has plenty to offer if you arts and crafts.

6. Learn to cook

The Little Pink Chef offers a wide variety of cooking classes, from Moroccan to Mexican, sushi to Thai and Indian to Italian. The classes generally include a starter, mains and a dessert, along with a variety of sauces. Take along your own wine and learn a new culinary skill! Cooking classes take place at their cooking studio in Durbanville and booking is essential as numbers are limited (maximum 12 per class).
Contact: Tel 0219753702, tlpchef.co.za

7. Go to a show

The Barnyard Theatre is a cheerful and affordable spot to go watch a show in the Willowbridge Centre in Tyger Valley. Most of the shows are musical, with talented local musicians performing anything from Queen to Billy Joel, Grease to Hollywood hits from the movies, along with the occasional performance by a local band or comedian. You are welcome to bring your own picnic basket and food, but pizzas and party platters are available for a very reasonable price and these can be ordered before the show. There’s also a drinks bar and coffee bar on the premises.
Contact: Tel 0219148898, barnyardtheatre.co.za

8. Have a pint

There are plenty of watering holes in the Northern Suburbs, with The Hollow Tree chain being one of the most well-known (the Old Oak branch serves the best Eisbein, according to a local), but the three I visited seemed a little more interesting. The Palms in Brackenfell is a massive venue where you can braai (braai packs available), eat in the restaurant, order a pizza at the bar while watching the rugby on big screens, or enjoy live music by local bands. It’s also extremely family-friendly which is probably why it’s so popular. I loved The Speakeasy Saloon in Durbanville with its fun décor and interesting information on the Prohibition. They have a huge menu, including tapas, burgers, steaks and pizzas. They also happen to serve Snakebite (a combination of cider and lager) which I haven’t seen since my days in London – word from the wise, take it easy with that beverage! Alternative and 80s rock fans will love The Rabbit Hole, who host regular live music nights, pool competitions, Open Mic nights and Tequila Tuesdays.

Clockwise from left: Speakeasy Saloon; The Palms; The Rabbit Hole.

9. Go birdwatching

Brian Vanderwalt hails from Durbanville and is not only an avid birder and tour guide, he’s also the Honourary President of the Tygerberg Bird Club and Committee Member at the Tygerberg Advisory Council, overseeing environmental affairs pertaining to the Tygerberg range of hills. Brian’s Birding Tours can take you on day trips to Rooi-Els and Betty’s Bay, the West Coast and Langebaan, along with trips around the Cape Peninsula and coastal and wetland habitats. You can also do overnight trips to the Kalahari, Tankwa Karoo and the Overberg. Aside from a passion for birds, Brian has a keen interest in insects, amphibians and rock art, so expect to learn interesting facts about the flora and fauna at the same time.
Contact: Tel 0219192192, brians-birding.co.za

10. Hang out with horses

It’s all about horses and equestrian activities at The Fat Pony Riding Centre in Joostenbergvlakte (just down the road from the Cape Garden Centre). This rustic smallholding is home to ten horses and ponies and five rescue dogs, who all get along happily together. Lorna teaches a classical English riding and students go on to take part in shows, including jumping and dressage. Lessons cost R170 with riders also getting to learn to groom and tack up their steeds. Day camp for little ones costs R350 with two riding lessons and lessons in feeding and grooming. A three-day camp for horse-loving youngsters costs R400 a day with home-cooked meals and two nights in the backpackers. The resident chef on the property, Munir, hails from Pakistan and he cooks only Indian meals using spices from Pakistan. I can confirm that his rotis are superb! Backpacker facilities are also available for travellers, from R180 a night for a dorm room.
Contact: Tel 0848253847, or find them on Facebook

The Fat Pony Riding Centre is everything equestrian and kids will especially love it.

11. Get some action

Brackenfell Action Arena is home to several all-weather sports arenas where you can take part in Action Football, Action Cricket and Action Netball. Recreational, social competitive and international games are played for all ages, genders and levels. Take along some of your friends or colleagues to the arena for a social gathering with a difference! Action Cricket costs R1 200 for 16 people, while Action Soccer and Netball costs R700 per team. Party packages are also available for kiddies’ parties and include sports time, umpires, equipment and various catering options.
Contact: Tel 0219816100, brackenfellarena.co.za

12. Watch an outdoor movie

During the summer months (November to April), the Galileo Open Air Cinema hosts outdoor movie nights at Hillcrest Quarry, Century City and Meerendal Wine Estate where you can take your seat under the stars and enjoy a night movies, artisanal food, beverages, interactive games, music and fun. It’s perfect for both date night and for families!
Contact: Tel 0714718728, thegalileo.co.za

13. Go for a run

Park Runs take place in the Jack Muller/Danie Uys Park in Bellville and at Meerendal Wine Estate in Durbanville on Saturdays. The Jack Muller/Dani Uys Park has undergone a revamp and I enjoyed my stroll (no running here!) along the pathways past picnic benches, trees and guinea fowl, while watching people walk their dogs on leashes. It felt safe with plenty of other people enjoying an afternoon in the park. There is also gym equipment for free use and a large jungle gym for the littlies.

The course at Meerendal consists of a loop around the lower vineyards then a short grass section below the bird-filled dam, to the upper vineyards and returns again to the lower vineyards, finishing close to the restaurant where you can enjoy a well-deserved cappuccino and breakfast. (Note that no dogs are allowed at this Park Run.)
Contact: parkrun.co.za

Clockwise from left: Many pathways to follow at the  Jack Muller/Danie Uys Park; picnic tables at the Jack Muller/Danie Uys Park; view from Carlucci’s at Meerendal.

14. Hunt for bargains

Voortrekker Road is synonymous with car dealerships (I even bought my first car there), but it’s also got plenty of other bargains from Chinese markets to hat shops, to toys, second-hand furniture and plastics. You can even get a tattoo and have your hair and nails done (R45 for the ‘Matric Package’, including hair, nails, toes and eyebrows!) Of course the motor trade still rules, so if you are looking for a bargain exhaust pipe or a new set of tyres, then Voortrekker Road is where you should go.

Interestingly, I drove down Voortrekker Road during Cape Town’s rush hour (between 16:00-17:00) and there were hardly any cars. I took my time and didn’t get half as disgruntled as I am sure my fellow city folk were on the N1 running parallel. So if there’s too much traffic to handle between Century City and Durban Road, opt for Voortrekker Road. You could even stop at the new Food Inn (same owner as the Eastern Bazaar in town) and grab a naan bread and a curry for dinner.

Sadly I couldn’t find the Twelve-Mile Rockstone on the corner of Durban and Voortrekker Road (unless it was a black stone resembling a pointy gravestone and now covered in stickers advertising a local clinic), but know that when you are cruising this road, you are going the same route as those in oxwagons who used to outspan here en-route to Stellenbosch.

15. Less braai, more sushi

According to the sushi chef at Yuz Sushi, the Northern Suburbs people are really starting to get into sushi as he’s noticed more and customers entering the restaurant over the past few months. Yuz Sushi in Bellville is one of the more popular sushi spots and although most patrons opt for takeaways, they have a clean and simple dining area if you’d prefer to eat in. They serve a fine miso soup and I can recommend their plum wine, if you like dessert-style wines.
Contact: Tel 0219101102 or visit their Facebook page.

Conveyor-belt sushi can be found at Yummy Zone, on the border of Bellville and Durbanville, who have lunch-time specials from Monday to Friday where all conveyor belt dishes are R25, along with all-you-can-eat sushi and Chinese food for R149 per person, from Monday to Sunday. They also have a bar serving a wide range of drinks.
Contact: Tel 0219104767 or visit their Facebook page.

Clockwise from left: Comfortable seating at Yummy Zone; conveyor-belt sushi at Yummy Zone; the best miso soup and tasty sushi at Yuz Sushi.

16. Play golf

Dating back to 1958, the 18-hole Bellville Golf Course is set in a sheltered valley with panoramic views of the Hottentots Holland mountains and has canals, dams and trees, along with well-placed water hazards and deceptive bunkers to keep you on your toes, or tees! Club facilities include a Pro Shop, a bar, a restaurant, a large practice area and putting green, motorised carts and professional caddies. Visitor fees start at R190 for 9 holes and R285 for 18 holes.
Contact: Tel 0219133100, bellvillegolf.co.za

Originally hacked out of Port Jackson, bush and shrubs in 1976, the Parow Golf Cours is a gentle and forgiving 18-hole parklands course, with a variety of water features and an abundance of bird-life. Facilities include a Pro Shop, a halfway house, a practice putting green, a chipping area and a practice bunker next to the 10th tee, along with well-stocked bars and a lounge with magnificent views of the Tygerberg Hills and Table Mountain. On Mondays and Tuesdays, visitors can play 18 holes for R155 (excluding public holidays), otherwise fees start at R155 for 9 holes and R260 for 18 holes.
Contact: Tel 0219302160, parowgolfclub.co.za

17. More than gambling at the casino

GrandWest Casino is not only for those who like a flutter. Most of us have been to a concert there (although they have a terrible bar service at those concerts!) and anyone with children is likely to have visited the ice skating rink or the bowling alley. There’s also a theatre, movie shows and heaps of restaurants, from the family-friendly Spur to Indian and Asian cuisine, along with affordable fare and snacks at The Food Court. Apart from the skating rink, almost everything is open 24 hours a day.
Contact: Tel 0215057777, suninternational.com/grandwest/

18. Quaff some wine

The Durbanville Wine Valley is a mere 20 minute drive from the city, but once you are there you will feel miles away, surrounded by rolling hills, vineyards and lush scenery. There are 12 wine farms in the valley, with each one providing their own unique offering, including wine tastings in a “cave” or in an old chicken coop! Most of the farms have restaurants where you can enjoy a farmhouse breakfast, tuck into tapas, scoff sushi or indulge in fine dining with a view.
Contact: Tel 0833101228, durbanvillewine.co.za

There’s plenty to explore in the Durbanville Wine Valley – only 20 minutes from the city.

19. Try toboganning

Almost everybody knows Cool Runnings Toboggan Park which opened its doors in 2007. But in case you don’t know about Africa’s first toboggan track, it involves a sled, a lever and a stainless steel track, where you can reach speeds of up to 40 kilometres an hour. The park also has a large terrace with food and drink facilities, including a liquor licence. It’s open every day of the week and only closes if it’s raining. Rides start at R40 for kids (3-14 years old) and R45 for adults, with various packages available including combo rides and day passes.
Contact: Tel 0219494439, coolrunnings.capetown

20. Smell the roses

The 3.5 hectare Durbanville Rose Garden on Durbanville Avenue has over 500 varieties of roses with approximately 5000 rose bushes. The best time to visit is from October to May when the roses are in full bloom and you can enjoy enjoy tea served by various charity organisations in the tearoom on Sunday afternoons.

The Durbanville Rose Garden is best visited from October to May when the roses are in full bloom.

Please note that I am aware that these are definitely not the only things to do in the Northern Suburbs. If you are a local (or not) and know of something cool that you’d like to share, please do so in the comments below. I would like to check them out on my next visit!

Ever wanted to get so far away that nobody can find you? We scoured the country for 16 gorgeous mountain cabins that guarantee ultimate solitude, serenity and sublime beauty. Plus, they’re all near great hiking trails too.

1. Stone Mountain Lodge

Kleinrivier Wilderness, Eastern Cape
GPS S33° 34.837’ E25° 15.288’

Stone Mountain Lodge, photo by Tyson Jopson.

The lodge is built into a rock face using natural stone and incorporates elements of the cliff-face beautifully (the shower, for example, is nested at the base of a cycad sprouting vegetation). There’s a deck with a small pool and braai area, and a large indoor fireplace. It’s the kind of place where you don’t just take off your boots – you kick ‘em off, pour a drink and watch the shadows creep up the mountainside until the sun dips below the peaks.

The hike to the cabin starts at the Kleinrivier reception and ascends quickly before undulating between valleys and ridges. Good fitness is required (though the lodge can transport your gear). There’s also a shorter walk, the Winterhoek Trail, which starts at the cabin and makes a loop around a nearby peak.

Kleinrivier Wilderness is 75 kilometres from Port Elizabeth along the R75 and then Cockscomb Road (gravel). The reception and camping ground are accessible by sedan but Stone Mountain Lodge is only accessible by hike or a 1,5-hour 4×4 track. It costs R2000 per night (sleeps seven) with a R500 service fee.
Contact: Tel 0413661811, kleinrivier.co.za

Also read: 12 remote camps and cottages around South Africa

2. Wolwekrans Eco Lodge

Schoemanskloof, Mpumalanga
GPS S25° 23.826’ E30° 34.145’

Wolwekrans Eco Lodge. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Situated on 120 hectares of bushveld on the dramatic Schoemanskloof escarpment, the two private self-catering cabins are perched high up for optimal isolation and views. The spacious two-bedroom accommodation is simple yet stylish, with crisp white linen and natural stone walls complementing the chalet’s off-the-grid profile. The landscape includes forest, with clear water springs for swimming, and sprawling acacia plains. Only high-clearance cars are recommended for the bumpy mountain road (or arrange a transfer) – pets are welcome too.

There are three main hiking trails: a one-kilometre family walk to a forest spring; a two-kilometre climb to the top of the mountain; and an easy two-kilometre hike to clear mountain pools.
It’s about three hours (310 kilometres) from Pretoria on the N4 and R539 to Mbombela. The lodge is from R2800 for two nights. It sleeps four in two bedrooms and you can pop two kids in the lounge.
Contact: Tel 0790370651, wolwekrans.com

3. Teniqua Treetops

Sedgefield, Western Cape
GPS S33° 56.817’ E22° 51.300’

Photos by Teagan Cunniffe.

It’s early morning at the foot of the Outeniquas and the air is filled with birdsong, distant donkey heehaws and a rooster’s crowing. You’ll quite likely see rain spiders taking shelter on your canvas walls – the eco-conscious couple who created these eight solar-powered tented ‘treehouses’ don’t fumigate, so creepy-crawlies are part of the package. Spread over 35 hectares in the Garden Route National Park, these simple cabins have kitchens, braais, electric blankets and heaters.

Hiking trails through the forest lead down to the pristine Karatara River. Alternatively, use this as a base to sample the Garden Route’s many hiking routes. Colin Wylie of Garden Route Walks offers a variety of guided day hikes, from R380 pp (minimum four people and excluding park fees).

It’s about 30 minutes (35 kilometres) from Knysna on the N2. From R1060 for two in a honeymoon treehouse, R1320 for the one-bedroom family treehouse (sleeps two adults and three children) or R1610 for the two-bedroom treehouse (sleeps four adults and one child).
Contact: Tel 0443562868, teniquatreetops.co.za

4. Ingwe Cabin

Northern Drakensburg, KwaZulu-Natal
GPS S28° 34.838’ E29° 0.304’

Ingwe Mountain Cabins, photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

There’s no one around as I lie, swaying on the hammock and looking up at the pine trees. From an early age, George (the owner) used to camp here with friends and family, in the shadow of an immense boulder. Many years later, he built a log cabin on the exact spot so his family could follow in the tradition. It’s now an unpretentious hideaway – the kind of place where you play board games around the fire in the lounge. The front porch has an uninterrupted view of the mountain face, where Cape vultures roost and spiral on thermals. Just a short walk away is a trout dam for catch-and-release fly fishing and sundowners. Surprisingly, there’s also a small golf green so you can practise your swing, and at your back a vast valley bordered by the distant Amphitheatre.

There are numerous hikes of varying lengths, from a 20-minute circuit that takes you passed tree ferns, waterfalls and rock art, to a full-day hike to the Cape vultures.
Ingwe Cabin is about four hours (320 kilometres) from Johannesburg on the N3 via Harrismith and then the R74. It’s accessible by 4×4 only. From R350 pp sharing for up to four people or a flat rate of R1500 for the cabin for more than four (sleeps six). Minimum two-night stay.
Contact: Tel 0824066271, ingwecabin.co.za

5. Dumbe

Oliviershoek, KwaZulu-Natal
GPS S28° 33.246’ E29° 09.021’

Dumbe Mountain Cabin. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Just getting here is amazing: ascending the Oliviershoek and Retief passes, you snake through valleys until you crest the escarpment to one of the best views in the Northern Drakensberg. Only four cottages share the 1500-hectare property, so seclusion is guaranteed. The cottages are equipped for comfort, right down to the welcoming fire. They’re romantic too: the open-plan design with central fireplace could see you naked for the whole weekend, moving from Jacuzzi-bath to bed, kitchen to fireside.

There are no marked hiking trails but plenty of jeep tracks you can explore. It’s about three hours (310 kilometres) from Johannesburg on the N3 via Harrismith and then the R74. No 4×4 is needed. From R420 pp (each cottage sleeps two).
Contact: Tel 0827790723, 0828210910, wheretostay.co.za

Also read: Your top 12 off-the-grid destinations

6. Thora Boloka

Magoebaskloof, Limpopo
GPS S23° 48.338’ E29° 56.192’

High on a hilltop overlooking the Kudu’s River Valley, Thora Boloka (roughly translated as ‘dream house’ in Sepedi) is a private mountain retreat, sleeping up to six. Part of Kurisa Moya Nature Lodge, it’s off the grid and isolated. Built of local stone, wood and clay, it seems to rise from the earth on which it stands. The spacious design and wrap-around windows mean it’s airy and cool in summer, while the central fireplace creates a cosy space in winter. There are views from every window, the patio and even from the outdoor shower, which looks out towards the Soutpansberg mountains, while gas appliances ensure there is no compromise on comfort.

Also read: 8 of the best places to stay in Magoebaskloof

There’s a four-hour, moderately difficult Koppie With a View trail that starts at Thora Boloka and links into the other trails at Kurisa Moya. Guided walks or outings can be arranged with South Africa’s top local bird guide, David Letsoalo. Cost varies, depending on the number of people in the group.

Kurisa Moya is less than an hour (55 kilometres) from Polokwane on the R71. Thora Boloka is from R750 pp sharing. Getaway readers pay a winter discount of R650 pp sharing (subject to availability and not valid over long weekends). When booking, simply mention you saw the offer in Getaway.
Contact: Tel 0716586980, 0822004596, krm.co.za

7. Cliffhanger Cottages

Knysna, Western Cape
GPS S33° 59.266’ E22° 58.988’

Cliffhanger Cottages, photo by Tyson Jopson.

There are places in which you can imagine yourself spending a few days and there are places you could see yourself living in. Cliffhanger Cottage, overlooking an indigenous forested valley just outside Knysna, is the latter. Marvellous wood finishings and a range of mod cons (including a ceramic firepot) give the inside of this raised cabin a cosy glow. There’s a large, covered deck with a wide sofa, Weber and chairs and everything, inside and out, is designed around the view. Windows in the lounge, bathroom and bedroom all look out over the green valley and onto the ridge of the Outeniqua Mountains beyond. It’s only 15km outside of Knysna, but it feels a world away.

The Goudveld State Forest, a magical enclave of ferns, forest and streams, is just a 10-minute drive away and offers the easy hour-long Jubilee Creek Walk as well as the two-hour Millwood Mining Walk, which takes you past abandoned gold-mining tunnels and shafts. Entry is R20 for adults and R10 for children.

The cottages are 15 minutes (15 kilometres) outside Knysna along the N2 and then Rheenendal Road. From R1180 for two.
Contact: Tel 0443884696, cliffhangercottages.co.za

8. Goatherds House

Matroosberg, Western Cape
GPS S33° 20.528’ E19° 37.174’

Goatherds House, photo by Chris Davies.

Matroosberg bills itself as the ‘Peak of Adventure’, and with activities from 4×4 trails to abseiling, it’s hard to argue. The reserve is also one of the best places in South Africa to see snow – the Ski Club of SA operates a ski lift for its members, servicing two slopes near the summit. A kilometre below, at 1195 metres, the thick stone walls of the 130-year-old Goatherds House don’t see as much snow as the slopes, but it does fall. The cottage is basic, but neat, with indoor and outdoor braais and a gas fridge, geyser and double hob. Well-behaved dogs are welcome by prior arrangement.

Trails start at the cottage and you’ll get a map at check-in. There’s a one-hour walk to beautiful rock pools, or a more gruelling hike to the 2 249-metre summit (about five hours one way).

Matroosberg is just over two hours (185 kilometres) from Cape Town via the N1 and R43. There’s a double bed in the only bedroom, with more beds in the living area. R1950 per weekend (sleeps six).
Contact: Tel 0233122282, matroosberg.com

9. Eagle Chalet

Cederberg, Western Cape
GPS S32° 22.560’ E19° 24.664’

Eagle Chalet, photo by Chris Davies.

What a pleasure, after a final hour and a half of rough track, to arrive at such a sweet spot. A wide stoep leads to a fully-kitted kitchen and two comfy bedrooms cap either end, and there’s a gas fridge and hot shower. Hikers can follow the track along the valley and up the surrounding ridges for views over the Tankwa Karoo.

It’s three hours (240 kilometres) from Cape Town to Mount Ceder to collect the keys, then another two hours (45 kilometres) to the chalet. The final 25 kilometres is rough – a 4×4 is recommended. R975 per night (sleeps four). Bedding is an extra R35 per person.
Contact: Tel 0215312956, cederbergchalets.co.za

10. Highlands Mountain Retreat

Golden Gate National Park, Free State
GPS S28° 29.296’ E28° 38.483’

Highlands Mountain Retreat, by Melanie van Zyl.

Golden Gate is dedicated to preserving South Africa’s grassland biome (there are over 50 species of grass in the park) and Highlands Mountain Retreat is perched right at the top, 2200 metres above sea level. Comprising just eight units – four family units sleeping four each and four units sleeping two each – these log cabins are tucked into the hills, providing seclusion and unbelievable vistas. All have a fireplace, oil heaters, electric blankets and, during my stay, zebra trotted up the hillside at dusk.

There are seven day hikes in the park ranging from 45 minutes to four hours. Most depart from Glen Reenen Rest Camp and there is one that starts behind the Golden Gate Hotel. All wind around or up the orange sandstone cliffs, dip into forested ravines and windswept grasslands. You can also do an overnight hike along the Ribbok Trail and a guided hike to Cathedral Cave. Hiking permit R40 per person.

Golden Gate National Park is about 3,5 hours (320 kilometres) from Johannesburg via the N3 to Harrismith, the N5, R74 and then the R712. From R1390 per two-sleeper unit and R2300 per four-sleeper family unit.
Contact: Tel 0582550962, sanparks.co.za

11. The Cederberg House

Cederberg, Western Cape
GPS S32° 28.436’ E19° 18.644’

Cederberg House, photo by Chris Davies.

Tucked in a narrow valley with a trickling stream nearby, The Cederberg House is the perfect spot for a large gathering. Two main bedrooms provide the more private sleeping quarters, with five double bunks in another large room. There’s no mains electricity and limited solar lighting, so bring your torches. Gas powers the stove, oven, fridges and geyser. Well-behaved dogs are welcome.

You can hike along the path that runs along the stream into the gorge, but for a longer hike, the 4×4 track to Wupperthal runs past the property and twists northwards through a vast wilderness.

It’s three and a half hours (260 kilometres) from Cape Town via the N7 and Algeria. The last 60 kilometres is dirt, but a 4×4 is not required. R750 per night for two, R200 per person thereafter (sleeps 15). Bring your own bedding, including pillows.
Contact: Tel 0844776420, cederberghouse.co.za

12. Panorama Cabin at Protea Farm

Montagu, Western Cape
GPS S33° 42.468’ E19° 53.338’

Panorama Cottage, photo by Chris Davies.

At an altitude of 1100 metres on the slopes of the Langeberg Mountains, the aptly named Panorama Cottage was hand-built in local mountain stone by the father of current farmer-owner, Pierre Burger. It’s elevated above what is still a working fruit farm, and has a functional old-fashioned atmosphere, with dormitory-style sleeping arrangements that are ideal for an intimate getaway for two families or a group of good friends.

The cosy kitchen and lounge are warmed by a corner fireplace. There are two single beds in the living area, a double bed and three single beds in the downstairs bedroom, a double bed and single bed behind a divider, and a triple bunk bed in the passage. It’s the kind of place where you drink mulled wine while gazing at the breathtaking views of the Koo and Keisie valleys.

There are plenty of jeep tracks to explore on this 700-hectare farm. There is a path that leads directly from Panorama 200 metres up to ‘where you can see forever’, says Pierre – certainly as far as the Robertson-Bree River valley.

It’s about three hours (207 kilometres) from Cape Town along the N1 and then the R318. From R1050 for five to R1930 for 13. Minimum two-night stay over weekends. Bedding is provided for one double bed only; extra bedding R90 pp.
Contact: Tel 0236143012, proteafarm.co.za

13. The Edge Mountain Retreat

Hogsback, Eastern Cape
GPS S32° 36.100’ E26° 55.050’

One of the cottages at The Edge Mountain Retreat.

Checking in, you might think you’ve arrived at an ordinary country hotel, but then you’re escorted to your stone-and-thatch cottage poised on the lip of the escarpment, and are left with nothing but ‘oh-my-gaaaawd’ views. There are two cliff-edge options I adore: ‘Heaven’s Above’, an open-plan cottage with amazing views – even from the bath tub – and ‘Over-the-edge’, furnished with vintage pieces.

Use this as a reward after tackling the Amatola Hiking Trail, a six-day hike through the Amathole Mountains, starting at Maden Dam near King Williams Town and ending near Hogsback. It’s possible to shorten the hike to three or two days. From R193 pppd, plus R110 admin fee.

It’s about three hours from Port Elizabeth (about 265 kilometres) via the N2 and R67. From R950 per unit per night (sleeps two).
Contact: Tel 0459621159, theedge-hogsback.co.za

Also read: What to do and where to stay in Hogsback

14. Omega Luxury Mountain Retreat

Clarens, Free State
GPS S28° 38.363’ E28° 22.362’

Omega Luxury Mountain Retreat, photo by Melanie van Zyl.

There aren’t many places where you can sit in a Jacuzzi and overlook another country. Just 18kilometres outside Clarens, four gorgeous cabins perch in mountain pasture, with views of Lesotho. Simple log exteriors hide impressive, quirky interiors, each styled to a different colour. I slept in the yellow cabin and walked in to scented candles burning, freshly picked cosmos, Champagne on ice and a hot Jacuzzi tub.

A heater, furnace-style fireplace, full DStv bouquet and king-size beds with electric blankets typify all these self-catering units. There are various hiking trails, which begin right at the door – anything from a 30-minute walk to a six-kilometre hike to an overhang on the Lesotho border. Nothing is signposted yet, but owners Jonathan and Natalie van der Westhuizen are happy to offer advice. Nearby you can also climb Mushroom Rock at St Fort for R30 per person.

Also read: Hiking in Clarens at St Fort Country House

Omega is about three hours (318 kilometres) from Johannesburg via the N3 to Villiers, the R103, R26 and N5 before turning right on the R712 to Clarens and then the R711 towards Fouriesburg. From R495 pp and can sleep four (there’s a sleeper couch), but keep in mind it is open plan.
Contact: Tel 0828248825, omegaclarens.co.za

15. Semonkong Lodge

Lesotho
GPS S29° 50.588’ E28° 2.607’

Semonkong Lodge, by Em Gatland.

Bang in the centre of Lesotho, the rugged grasslands here could be the moors of the Scottish Highlands – except they are dotted with rondavels and criss-crossed by trails traversed by Basothos on horses. You meet these mountain people as you hike towards the 192-metre Maletsunyane Falls, one of the longest single-drop waterfalls in Africa. The lodge offers cosy cottages and rooms, good meals, and staff will arrange a host of activities, including overnight pony treks. Day treks (by pony or on foot) are from R300 per person, overnight trails from R450 per person per day plus R100 per night in village accommodation.

It’s three hours (110 kilometres) from Maseru along the Main South Road. From R860 for two.
Contact: Tel +26627006037, placeofsmoke.co.ls

16. Kol Kol Mountain Lodge

Bot River, Western Cape
GPS S34° 10.472’ E19° 13.003’

Kol Kol Mountain Lodge in Bot River.

It’s a marvellous disappearing act getting here – beyond Elgin, down the Houwhoek Pass, onto a gravel road, and into the Groenland Mountains where you need high-profile tyres to reach your cabin. Each of the six cabins have floor-to-ceiling glass doors that can slide away. They’re a gorgeous mix of elegant rusticity – stone and wood offset by luxurious linens and comforts such as iPod-connectable music players and wood-fired hot tubs.

There’s a three-kilometre trail on the property, or you can use your stay here to top off the four-day Green Mountain Trail, a slack-packing hike in the Elgin Valley. From R8795 per person sharing. Kol Kol about 90 minutes (96 kilometres) from Cape Town on the N2. From R1350 for two and from R2 050 for four.
Contact: Tel 0769136014, 0826545090, kolkol.co.za

Read the full story in the June 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our June issue is packed full of great winter holiday ideas. On shelves from 23 May.

The Gauteng Getaway Show is around the corner and promises to be yet another spectacular event filled with fun, food, wine and more fun! It is a fantastic excuse to be out and about with family and friends and spend the day filled with activities that will keep everyone happy. To further remind you of how fantastic it is, I’ve decided to share with you a few reasons I’m excited, and why you should be too about this year’s Gauteng Getaway Show.

1. The wine village

There will be over 10 wine producers at the wine village offering some of their finest wines. For only R20 you will get 20 tasting coupons to taste the various wines within the entire village.

2. Plenty of delicious food

Culture Kitchen, The Bohemian Pizza Truck and Panini Bistro are some of the food trucks that will be offering some delicious delicacies for the day – for maximum indulgence and pleasure, you are encouraged to bring an empty stomach.

3. Volleyball

There will be volleyball matches with the exhibitors for your entertainment. The playing field will be set and with Colin Pocock, a South African beach volleyball player will also be around to play!

4. Market shopping

You will get the opportunity to do some shopping because there were will be a fantastic market selling nuts, sausages, pancakes, designer vodka drinks & clothes. Shopaholics are guaranteed to thrive, especially with the specials and deals!

5. Spend time with family & friends

The Getaway show promises a fantastic reason to be out and about with family with friends to celebrate the heritage and cultural diversity of South Africa. Take advantage of our Groupon special and buy two tickets for R60, your family and friends will love you for it!

6. Let the kids have their own fun too

There will be plenty of fun for children as well – from parachute rockets, a paintball shooting tunnel and berg pedal go-karts for children to enjoy in the children’s court. You can have fun and enjoy the show while being guaranteed that the children are also having a good time as well! There will be toddlers court to cater for children of all ages.

And this is only where the fun begins.

7. Braai Off and stand a chance to win R20 000 worth of prizes!

The popular Braai Boy will be at the Gauteng Getaway show hosting the Getaway Braai Off where someone will walk away with R20 000. What better excuse to celebrate the uniquely South African heritage of braai over a fantastic giveaway on National Braai Day. Entries for the Junior Braai off with children are still open, so get the young opens to apply here to also stand a chance of winning fantastic prizes.

8. Live music

Amidst all the activity of the show, there will be live music on the day by bands such as – Mountain Thief, Tuin, Just Mia, Natalie Poppy Band and Nana. One can always take a break to enjoy the live music and ambience of having people around on a fantastic day out. Live music brings such moments to life with some colour.

9. Enter more competitions

There will be plenty of competitions on the day from gear to accommodation and holiday giveaways! There will be loads of prizes to be won plus specials and deals that will be on offer from a variety of the companies and agents with travel packages and products!

10. Getaway Wildlife Photography Workshop

The Getaway show will also provide visitors with some information through the Getaway Wildlife  Photography workshop. Applications for this workshop filled up so fast that we have now opened the second round of applications, seats are filling up fast so book your spot now!

Organising a weekend away with friends nowadays isn’t easy. So when given a day to test drive the new Toyota Fortuner, I decided to test an escape plan that might make it a little easier.

I’ve grown tired of asking my friends when they’re free. Trying to coordinate calendars after your mates hit 30 is like trying to solve the Rubik’s cube of adult responsibility. Steve’s kids have soccer on Sunday… Glenn’s doing renovations, so he spends his Saturdays literally watching paint dry… Brian’s had another baby, so he’s out for the next eight years… And Jim. Poor Jim. He got hooked on that bloody Pokémon GO game and we haven’t seen him since July (someone should really try get hold of Jim, guys). And so it goes…

After rain, there are puddles along the Honingklip 4×4 Trail ‒ always check first before driving through.

It got me thinking – what if it didn’t need to be a weekend? What if all it took was just one night away to claw back some much-needed freedom. I mean, it is a constitutional right after all (isn’t it?). A chance to test drive the new Toyota Fortuner 2.8 GD-6 4×4 Automatic presented the perfect opportunity to test this theory.

First, I needed to assemble a test crew. As it turns out, dangling a pair of Fortuner keys over your colleagues’ keyboards and suggesting they take Friday afternoon off, for very important research purposes, is all it takes. CAR magazine’s Wilhelm Lutjeharms and Kian Eriksen were in, and so was our new staffer Welcome Lishivha, who’d never driven a 4×4 before. Posse sorted.

At around 2pm, when the sun and the Capetonians beneath it lose interest in their jobs and autopilot their ways towards the evening, Welcome and I hit the road. We punched through the Somerset West traffic and whizzed up Sir Lowry’s Pass, both tasks made easy with the Fortuner’s fluid six-speed automatic transmission. A Bluetooth connection to my phone and steering-wheel audio and telephone controls allowed me to absolve Welcome of his shotgun duties as aural entertainment manager. Not that I don’t believe in sharing responsibilities on a road trip, it’s just that he’d mentioned something about the lyrical genius of Nicki Minaj as we were leaving Cape Town.

From Clarence Drive you can see the whole of False Bay.

We met up with Kian and Wilhelm for lunch at The Shuntin’ Shed in Bot River. A train rumbled over the tracks, sending a small shiver through the woodwork while neon-yellow canola fields glowed in the distant Overberg. Bellies full, we jumped onto the R43 for Hermanus before peeling off onto the R44 and into Kleinmond. Thick chalk-dust clouds grew heavier as we rounded the Palmiet Estuary, crossed the eponymous river and turned right into the Kogelberg Nature Reserve. At the reception for Oudebosch Eco Cabins Stefanie informed us to be on the lookout for a male baboon who’d gone rogue, no doubt fed up with the restraints of day-to-day life in his troop. See? Freedom. Even the wildest men still need it, I thought.

Kogelberg’s blooms are at their best in August and September; Oudebosch Eco Cabins are built with minimal impact.

In a short time we had cold drinks in our hands and were seated on the wooden deck, angled towards Perdeberg Peak hulking over the northwestern valleys. Aside from a few Cape sparrows and doves pecking at the grass-bedecked roof of the cabin, there was just stillness and the sound of the river. And then laughter as darkness descended and the flames rose. Braai time. On the menu: wors, potatoes and beer. We chatted into the night, about everything from cars to cool destinations and eventually, as it so often happens, all agreed on how terrible a president Donald Trump would be and then went to bed.

The next morning, Welcome and I headed out for a hike. Thick clouds still hung low over the biosphere but at least the fynbos was showing off, proffering an assortment of interesting blooms that I’d love to know the names of. We followed the Palmiet River north towards Dwarsrivier Peak and higher into the clouds, keeping an eye out for any trees marked by scratching Cape mountain leopards in the night. Then it began to rain and we turned back.

After a quick boiled-eggs-and-avocado breakfast we bundled into the Fortuner and headed for the Honingklip 4×4 Trail, about 15 minutes away. Welcome took the wheel and the Fortuner took the limelight. Beneath its bold design and plush interior is an off-road beast forged in the same fires as the tough-as-nails Hilux. With 4H (four-wheel drive, high range) engaged the Fortuner made light work of the easy gravel undulations before we pointed its nose at some of the tougher challenges. All it took was a quick lesson in 4×4 dynamics and a regular flow of in-car instructions for Welcome to feel comfortable navigating even the most challenging of obstacles – the combination of 4L (four-wheel drive, low range), rear-differential lock and DAC (downhill assist control) did the rest.

It was still morning by the time we were done and we opted to take the scenic R44 back to Cape Town, effectively completing a loop of the entire Kogelberg biosphere. Between Pringle Bay and Gordon’s Bay is where this road (Clarence Drive, as it’s known) really shows off. We wound our way north, over the Rooiels River, Kogel Bay shimmering on the left and the coast’s burnt-orange rock face, cleaved out for a drive with no fewer than 77 bends, glowing in the sunshine.

Large central-display and steering-wheel controls make it easier to focus on the road

For an off-road brute, the Fortuner has impeccable on-road manners. A new, wider stance, impressive steering calibration and a four-link rear suspension system and impressive consumption figures for its size puts the good-feels in all the right places.

Our last stop was Ooskus Fisheries – a Gordon’s Bay institution. We each grabbed a hake and chips parcel and sat outside watching the traffic go by. In under 24 hours we’d hiked, braaied, driven through rocks, sand, and mud, tested our 4×4 skills, taken in spectacular drives and scenic views and slept in absolute wilderness (with no cell reception). Freedom achieved? You bet. Finding friends to join me next time will be easy. Though I might not need to, because I guess I’ve just made some new ones.

TOYOTA FORTUNER 2.8 GD-6 4×4 AUTOMATIC
Engine: four-cylinder turbo diesel
Gearbox: six-speed automatic
Seats: seven
Fuel tank: 80 litres
Consumption: 7,8l/100km (claimed combined)
Price: R589 400 (includes three-year/ 100 000km warranty and five-year/90 000km service plan)

Travel planner

Need to know

In total, it’s about a 230-kilometre round trip from Cape Town, with all the points of interest dotted along the R43 or R44. Short distances between stops mean you can do it in whichever order you prefer and, in fact, I’d recommend taking Clarence Drive in the late afternoon if possible. The sunsets are incredible and there are plenty of spots to stop and take it all in.

What to do

Hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve. There are five day hikes (ranging from six to 22 kilometres). If you’re staying at Oudebosch Eco Cabins, the hikes are included otherwise it’s R40 per person for day visitors.

Drive the Honingklip 4×4 Trail. The 12-kilometre course is set up for novices and experienced drivers alike, with red indicators for technical loops that can be included or skipped at your discretion. The full course takes about three hours and costs R150 per vehicle.

Where to stay

Oudebosch Eco Cabins (there are six) feels utterly private and secluded. Eco loos, planted roofs and recycled products (sandblasted wine bottles make great chandeliers) are just some of the minimal-impact features. Each cottage sleeps four in two rooms (two single beds in one and a double in the other) so bring an extra mattress if you don’t want to be your mate’s little spoon. From R1170 for two people and R192 per person thereafter (maximum four).

Where to eat

The Shuntin’ Shed in Bot River serves good food in a relaxed atmosphere and the old-station-style decor always interesting to browse. I think its DStv audio boquet is broken though – it’s been stuck on VH1 for the last 10 years. Burgers from R80.

Ooskus Fisheries is perfectly located for a lunch stop before or after winding your way along Clarence Drive. Hake and chips is a favourite and costs R69.

Xolobeni, Transkei. If you haven’t been there yourself, it’s easy to dismiss this name when you see it in connection with mining disputes in the news. But if you have, you’ll remember it by folded valleys, hidden waterfalls, empty coastlines and simple living. It was to this that writer Niq Mhlongo and I travelled to, to try portray just what this area has to offer.

Red earth, filled with titanium, has thrown this area into conflict.

 
So it was a challenging moment for me when I considered that, perhaps, my strong feelings against mining in this beautiful landscape might be wrong. Communities here are isolated; roads are in rough condition and basic human needs, like access to clean water, are only available to a few. As essentially a tourist, who was I to dictate other people’s quality of life when I look on from afar, sporadically visiting the area every year or so? Perhaps mining would set in place infrastructure that would improve living conditions.

I tackled this moral dilemma, environmental impact versus progression, over the countless hours Niq and I spent travelling these bumpy dirt tracks. In the end, it was the people we met and homes we were welcomed into that moved my opinions. People here are divided. There is political and social pressure, but for the majority this is a life chosen and kept simple by design: an active boycott of unnecessary development.

Here, we passed healthy livestock grazing, children playing freely between neat houses set hills apart, women walking to the shores to catch fish and later, offer that fish to us for a lunch eaten next to the foundations of a soon-to-be-built home. There is freedom here, a livelihood that communities recognise would be fundamentally changed by mining operations.  Harnessed correctly, I believe this area could provide equally, proudly and more sustainably if it focussed on tourism development and environmental conservation.

And poignantly, the voices loudest in the anti-mining movement are those of the people who live there themselves.

As I say goodbye to Xolobeni, I think I now understand why as a young boy growing up in Soweto I used to like Mama Miriam Makeba’s song called AmaMpondo. Being in this part of the Wild Coast is like an escape to a larger, freer society than any I had yet seen. -Niq Mhlongo

 
In the October 2016 issue of Getaway magazine, Niq Mhlongo uncovers the story of this complex landscape. Be sure to pick up a copy now, and to follow the progress of mining developments on the news.

Teacher, Richard Hlongwe, looking out over Isikhombe river while Niq climbs the hard-packed, towering orange sand further north.

The red sands in question extend north from the Isikhombe River to Mnyameni River.

The plummeting Mnyameni waterfall drops down into a wide, deep pool where kids splash and swim.

The self-titled ‘Hlongwe’ van, which Richard (left) uses to transport family and water supplies.

Richard dreams of developing this cave system into accommodation one day.

Mtentu River Lodge resonates with me, and it was a privilege to share this exquisite spot with Niq, who was visiting Transkei for the first time.

The Mtentu River flows through canyon walls to reach the sea, where the isolated coastline awaits. I took the slow exposure on the right using a LEE 10-stop ND filter.

You can’t just photograph animals in this area, as I soon found out: you need to ask permission from their owners first. With the area in conflict and media distrust rife, people are scared of being portrayed on either side of the argument, whether through photos of themselves or their property.

Sunrise over the Isikhombe river. I took this image using half-graduated LEE filters.

Read more from this story in the October 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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All prices correct at publication, but are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before booking or buying.

Three adventures in this issue personify the treasures this continent offers us as travellers…

 
The first time I saw the Zambezi River, I was mesmerised. It was big and wide and slow and filled with the sound of wildlife: hippos, birds, monkeys and elephants, and the occasional splash of a crocodile or leguaan. I stayed close to Livingstone, Zambia, and every afternoon the clouds hung heavy over the river, the air thick and warm as a storm brewed. It was magnificent.

So we were interested when we heard about a plan to launch a couple of boats in Sioma and ride up the river during flood season when the river escapes its banks and becomes a rambling, grand lake with channels of floating reeds. This is an adventure that can take place only at a certain time of year and had never been attempted before. How would it turn out? It was unparalleled. It was hot and the motorboats hummed endlessly, and it put Gerrit Rautenbach into a delightful state of Zen, he told us when he came into our offices to describe the journey. I was enthralled: imagine doing something like that, with a group of adventurers, long days of warmth and water and camping wild – how many of us get that opportunity? Not very many. And yet, adventures like this are still possible, especially on our continent.

 
Closer to home, my brother and I recently went back to the place we grew up, in the Jozini area. On one of the days, we took a long and very bumpy drive up to the Hlatikulu Forest, past the tiny town of Jozini up in the Lebombo Mountains. On some of the roads we stopped to look down into valleys thick with indigenous forest. We crept into Hlatikulu itself. It was dark and thick with trees, some covered in moss and vines, and it felt like we were treading where no man had stepped before. But that wasn’t the case  because after a while we got the sense we were being followed – and we were, by a poacher with hunting dogs who ran when our guide confronted him.

An old way of life is also what Niq Mhlongo found when he went to Xolobeni, that section of Wild Coast land contested for its titanium stores. One of his interviewees said that although people are poor, they are happy with their traditional way of life. People’s relationship to the land goes so much deeper than the beauty we see as travellers, coming from the outside. But the beauty is uncontestable. It won over Niq in the end – and one look at our cover image, taken there, should convince any sceptic.

 
Read these stories: Riverwhacking the Zambezi (page 88), A Summer Night’s Dream (pg 68), and The Value of Sand (page 78), and enjoy these wild spaces through our eyes. We hope they inspire you, like they did us, to travel more.

This month’s contributors

Obie Oberholzer
SA’s legendary photographer needs no introduction. This month he shares his latest journey, to Armenia, on page 62. ‘Over my lifetime, I have photographed a great deal more than I have prayed, but somehow these early monasteries [in Armenia] have touched my spiritual pixels.

Gerrit Rautenbach
Gerrit has always been fascinated by adventure travel. Including river boating. He’s done some distance on Africa’s biggies,so when he was offered the opportunity to travel 1280 kilometres up the mighty Zambezi, he was ready to rock ’n roll. See page 88.

Caroline Webb
A new recruit to the Getaway gang, Caroline considers herself a ‘travel rookie’ who hasn’t seen enough of the planet, still can’t sleep the night before a trip, is often overwhelmed by the ‘big-ness’ of the world, and is always amazed that she finds her way home. For her first assignment, she did a road trip. See page 52.

This story originally appeared in the October 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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The six-day Tsitsikamma Trail is the inland yin to the over-popular Otter’s coastal yang. Morgan Trimble finds it wonderful to walk.

The hike begins with a stroll on the beach; then it meanders through beautiful coastal forest.

 
Normally, sidewalk rage takes hold when I’m stuck behind a slow walker – those aimless amblers clogging pavements and passageways, oblivious that anyone else is trying to get anywhere. Yet, on the worn paths winding beneath shadows of behemoth trees, past prehistoric ferns and otherworldly mushrooms, amid trogons’ calls and lurid flashes of turaco feathers, over caracal tracks in soft mud, I was keeping a snail’s pace and loving it. I became a slow walker on the Tsitsikamma Trail.

‘What’s that?’ nearly everyone asked. I’d explain that the Tsitsikamma is like the Otter Trail, but inland through the mountains. ‘Oh, I’ve done the Otter!’ they’d say.

It seems like everyone and their granny has hiked the Otter Trail.

I guess the stunning scenery and physical challenge draw plenty of repeat customers because it’s still difficult to get a booking. The Otter Trail snakes west from Storms River, climbing sheer coastal cliffs above pounding waves and tumbling down steep, river-carved gorges. It spits you out five days and 43 kilometres later on the sun-drenched beach in Nature’s Valley. This happens to be where the Tsitsikamma Trail begins before jutting inland through verdant indigenous forest and fynbos of the Tsitsikamma mountains.

The trail crosses many of the same rivers as the Otter, climbs numerous ridges and covers 64 kilometres over six days before reaching Storms River Bridge, near where the Otter Trail starts. Despite its 35-year existence, the Tsitsikamma remains relatively unknown and, thankfully, bookings are easy to come by. Sign me up!

One of the many tempting pools along the way; just before Sleepkloof Hut, we still had energy for frogging and splashing in a secluded stream.

 
But trepidation set in when, along with our confirmation, the trail managers sent 14 documents about safety, strongly advising that hikers learn how to handle emergencies: ‘Potential emergencies include ailments, illness and injuries; being lost; being stranded; flooding; dangerous river crossings and hypothermia.’ Evidently, we might also face veld fire, contaminated water, lightning, fog, slippery footing, ill-fitting footwear and a snake bite. Not to worry. The documents detailed escape routes and where you might find mobile reception. I think I was the only one in our group to read any of the documents, let alone all 14, and I was rattled.

‘We’ll be fine,’ assured my friend Saskia, who happened to be five months’ pregnant. Before setting off from our cosy cottage in Nature’s Valley, I nervously checked my backpack for personal essentials plus the recommended space blanket, survival bag, spare rations, first-aid kit, route maps and emergency contacts. I slipped in some ‘emergency’ biltong and chocolate just to be safe, and then we were off. ‘If a pregnant woman can hike this trail, so can I,’ became my mantra.

Roelf tops up with water from one of numerous forest streams.

 
Later, I was embarrassed by my anxiety when we arrived, barefoot, at the first hut in under 30 minutes. Kalander Hut is hidden just behind the trees on the east side of the Groot River Mouth. We took advantage of the beach location for some fun in the surf and a scramble up Pig’s Head for sunset on the cliff amid aloes and wildflowers. From there, we spotted a shark circling our swimming area. Shark attack – they should add that to the potential emergencies! We closed the day with a tasty braai tucking into our heaviest food and drinks.

At 15 kilometres, day two of the hike was more serious. It started with a steep climb up the escarpment into pristine fynbos for a last view of Nature’s Valley before descending into, well, nature’s valleys. I slackened my pace, spellbound, when we entered the indigenous forest. You had to walk slowly to take in even a fraction of the detail. We stopped often to gape at the height of the yellowwoods; appreciate the mosses, ferns, frogs and fungi; and attempt, mostly without success, to pull flitting birds from the canopy into binocular focus.

My backpack didn’t feel heavy until the last four kilometres when the forest path gave way to jeep track through pine plantations. The downside of the Tsitsikamma Trail is that it traverses forestry land, and for me, the plantations dampen the wilderness experience.

The sunset adds to the picturesque view from Bloukrans Hut.

 
Eventually, we arrived at Bloukrans Hut, perched on a cliff with the best view on the trail – a panorama of mountains above cascading waterfalls bathed in pink sunset glow. With a view like this, the pines on the horizon didn’t matter, but we encountered another irritation. Each camp holds 24 people. As our group cooked dinner, the three hikers we’d met the previous night unobtrusively chatted in German while playing cards. Meanwhile, eight medical students had arrived and seemed to be in competition for the title of most obnoxious. They were hiking a portion of the trail and would be with us for three nights.

Our pace slowed even more on day three, both to enjoy the flora crowded with sunbirds darting between blooming ericas and proteas and to avoid catching up to the noisy students.

The prospect of the upcoming Bloukrans River crossing triggered vivid flashbacks. Years earlier on the Otter, I thought I would lose my backpack and my life as I swam (flailed, actually) through ocean surge at the river’s mouth. This time, I was relieved when we rock-hopped over the river without even wetting our socks. Honeyguides called from the forest that afternoon when we found our mid-hike supply drop at Keurbos Hut. What a treat – beers and fresh rations for a braai.

One of the many tempting pools along the way; just before Sleepkloof Hut, we still had energy for frogging and splashing in a secluded stream.

 
While crossing the Lottering, Elandsbos, Kleinbos and Witteklip rivers went as smoothly as the Bloukrans, the risk of getting stranded in a flood was clear. Luckily, we didn’t face any emergencies, but ‘character building’ aptly describes the arduous slog over two saddles on the fifth day. We were headed for Sleepkloof Hut, which sounded more like a pro wrestling move to me than an idyllic mountain retreat. Struggling up the steep climb to Nademaalsnek Pass in midday heat with no shade and dwindling water supplies, I would have welcomed the sleeper hold. ‘But, if a pregnant woman can do this…’

I gasped and kept climbing.

The following morning, we prolonged our walk through the remaining stretch of forest as long as possible with a detour to admire The Big Tree. This 37-metre-tall Outeniqua yellowwood sprouted about five centuries before Van Riebeeck hopped ashore in the Cape. That gave me some perspective: what’s a six-day walk in the woods compared to 800 years of a sentinel standing in one spot?

At lunch time, we popped out at the Storms River Petroport. Back to modern society. ‘Ugh! Why are these slowpokes taking so long in the Steers queue?’ I wished I’d booked the Otter Trail and walked the five days back to Nature’s Valley.

How to get to the Tsitsikamma Trail

We drove the N2 from Cape Town to Nature’s Valley but if you are driving from Joburg, take the N1 to Colesberg, N9 to Uniondale, R339 to R340 to join the N2. Alternatively, fly to Plettenberg Bay or George and take the R102 turn-off to Nature’s Valley. The hike is organised by MTO Ecotourism and begins from Nature’s Valley De Vasselot Rest Camp.

Leave a car at the trail’s end (Storms River) or pre-organise a shuttle back to your vehicle. A list of operators is provided by MTO Ecotourism and you need to arrange the shuttle yourself.

You have to be fit to really enjoy this 64-kilometre hike over six days. The route is graded moderate to difficult. I found the terrain gentler than the Otter’s, but daily distances longer. Day one is a lovely hike through rare and tall, dry coastal forests, day two to five are challenging, with ample uphill. Day six is either a 3,2 kilometre hike to Storms River Bridge ‒ uphill at first then gradual descent or a 5,5-kilometre hike to Storms River Village ‒ uphill at the start then mostly level. We opted for a mid-hike supply drop, but you can forgo support entirely or splurge on slack packing (the latter is not possible for the first overnight hut). The trail is customisable with shorter two- to six-day options. Masochists can book the Otter Trail too via SANParks for an epic round trip.

The Tsitsikamma Trail costs R155 per person per night, R800 per hut for the first five people for portage; and then R150 per additional person thereafter up to a maximum of 12 persons. (The maximum number of hikers that can make use of portage per hut per day is 12).
Book via MTO Eco-Tourism: 0422811712, or mtoecotourism.co.za

Best time to go

The hike is open throughout the year. It’s busiest in December when temperatures can be oppressive, but there are swimming holes along the way. I went in September and enjoyed the spring flowers.

Need to know

The huts on the trail are basic but decent enough. Each site has 24 bunks between a few rooms. I took a comfy sleeping bag and inflatable pillow, and earplugs helped me snooze through the snores. There’s no electricity so pack a headlamp. Each camp has a lapa with tables, braais and a view. Firewood is provided (except on your first night at Kalander Hut), but bring a camping stove and supplies for washing up. Slack packing allows more luxurious eating. Otherwise, travel light.

There are good toilets and a hot-water shower bucket at all the huts. All camps have piped water from local sources and rainwater collection. Use purifying drops or tablets when refilling your water bottles, even from rainwater, as baboons play on the roof. Read the safety information at each hut. Cell phone reception is limited.

Kayaking in the Nature’s Valley estuary.

What to do

Kayak Nature’s Valley estuary. This is a great area to explore, or have a laze on the beach for some well-earned relaxation after your hike. Kayaks can be hired for R55 per hour from Nature’s Valley Rest Camp.

Explore the Storms River suspension bridges. There’s a R45 per person conservation fee to pay at the Storms River Mouth gate.

Throw yourself off the world’s highest bungee bridge at Bloukrans. R890 per person.

Where to eat

Nature’s Valley Restaurant serves a calamari burger for R89,50 that’s tough to beat. Contact them on 0445316835.

Where to stay

Nature’s Valley Properties rents out accommodation in Nature’s Valley. From R900 for a cottage (sleeps 8).

SANParks’ forest huts right on the river looked inviting. They are in the De Vasselot section of the Garden Route National Park. R490 for two sharing.

Tsitsikamma Village Inn in Storms River is popular. From R870 for two sharing.



This article was first published in the June 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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All prices correct at publication, but are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before booking or buying.

Striving to be a polite house guest, our columnist finds himself in a sticky situation in more ways than one.

Photo by Ashraf Hendricks

I did drugs in Yemen with two men I hardly knew. Well, I call it a drug, and really it is a drug, but in Yemen they pretend it isn’t. It’s a leaf called qat, very similar to coca leaf, and if there’s a single soul in Yemen who doesn’t chew qat every day of their life, I did not see them or meet them in the three weeks
I was there.

I need you to understand how absurd this situation is: In the US qat is a Schedule 1 narcotic, which ranks it alongside heroin, LSD and GHB, the date-rape drug. Yemen is a very strict Muslim country. Women are grudgingly allowed to drive in Yemen, but they aren’t allowed to purchase or own a car, which seems to me a recipe for creating a nation of female car thieves. But despite being so strict, qat is so common there it’s almost compulsory.

Work days in Yemen end around 2.30pm so that people can find a shady place and recline on their left side, with their head propped on their left hand, and shovel handfuls of leaf into their mouth. They store the chewed leaf in one cheek like lazy chipmunks and sluice cold water through it from time to time to extract more of that sweet, sweet psychoactive sap. When Razzam and Saddiq invited me to chew qat with them, how could I say no? They chew qat all afternoon but peak chewing time is the Hour of Solomon, the hour around sunset. Why Solomon? Because by the time the sun sets they’ll have been chewing so long they have become very wise, and make thoughtful pronouncements about the world. ‘That is when all the best decisions are made,’ said Razzam enthusiastically.

I joined them in Saddiq’s chewing room on the top floor of his gingerbread-decorated mud- brick home in downtown Sana’a. It’s a long, empty west-facing room scattered with pillows and cushions and lined with windows made from finely shaved coloured alabaster, so that the setting sun moved faint lozenges of red and blue across our faces. I was curious to find out
what qat tastes like. I can tell
you now: it tastes like leaves.
Go to any nearby tree and eat
a fistful of leaf. Is that tasty? No, it’s not. I munched away dutifully; swallowing green foamy saliva, wondering how awful life would have to be before chewing qat seems like a pleasant escape.
As I chewed my temperature rose. My face became flushed and my eyeballs ached. I felt like talking but not joyfully and I didn’t have anything to say.
It wasn’t all that different
from most other hard-drug experiences, I suppose. Then Saddiq put his hand on my leg.

He did it casually, with a reassuring smile, and I wondered what to make of it. Customs are different in Yemen. Men walk hand in hand in the street and kiss each other in greeting. Perhaps this was just friendliness. I didn’t want to offend him by removing his hand. But I didn’t want to lead him on.
We chewed a little longer.
The leaf didn’t get any tastier. Leaves don’t. I started to feel nauseous. After about 10 minutes Saddiq moved his hand a little further up my thigh. I looked at him suspiciously, but other than the hand action, he wasn’t acting out of the ordinary – he was telling me some story about
how he taught his son to fire
an AK47. It is difficult to be a guest in someone else’s home, in someone else’s country, in someone else’s culture,
doing drugs. Etiquette-wise,
it’s a nightmare. Fortunately nature provided me with
a solution. ‘Excuse me,’ I interrupted him, before vomiting all over myself.

This story originally appeared in the October 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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All prices correct at publication, but are subject to change at each establishment’s discretion. Please check with them before booking or buying.

The Cape is known for delicious wines: it’s kind of our thing. But what happens when you venture beyond the familiar wine farms around Constantia, Stellenbosch and Franschhoek? For the more adventurous wine-lovers, these lesser-known wine routes should be next on your to-do list.

The view from Spookfontein on the Hemel en Aarde wine route.

1. Durbanville Wine Valley

Clockwise left: Altydgedacht; Phizante Kraal; Cassia at Nitida; Diemersdal.

There are no less than 12 wine farms to explore in the Durbanville wine valley of rolling hills that’s so close to Cape Town it makes for a good day trip. But you really should stay longer to truly enjoy all that is on offer!

Altydgedacht has the oldest functioning wine cellar in the country (while you are there look out for the slave bell that still rings daily signalling lunch break) and whilst De Grendel may have the newest wines, they have a fascinating history along with spectacular views of Table Mountain.

Diemersdal are famous for their Thursday night steak special (book long in advance) and Sunday roasts, but if a swanky dinner with a view in the winelands suits your palate, then Durbanville Hills is the one for you – they have a gourmet set menu that changes seasonally.

Hillcrest Estate produce a delicious olive oil that you can get refilled at their gate, but do make sure you book for their Tapas Evenings on the last Friday of every month. You can’t beat Cassia Restaurant’s tranquil setting next to a dam at Nitida for breakfast, but if hens clucking around your feet make you happy while you tuck into an omelette, then try the quirky Café Ruby at Klein Roosboom.

If you are serious about getting the most out of your wine tasting, Bloemendal offers very generous tastings in an unhurried environment and if you buy wine you get a voucher to enjoy another tasting on the house. Otherwise head to Phizante Kraal for a wine tasting in the farm’s original chicken coop (if the weather is bad) or enjoy a tasting in a swing or on a couch in a red wine-stained cave at Klein Roosboom. Signal Gun is the perfect spot if you are wanting a change from wine as they do beer tasting and beer and biltong pairings as well as wine tasting. They also fire their 300 year old canon every first Saturday of the month and you can go on a game drive over the weekends.

Mountain bikers have a wide choice of routes to choose from throughout the valley, while runners can go to Meerendal every Saturday morning for Park Run. If you are looking for somewhere to stay, then the self-catering cottages at D’Aria are the perfect spot – they also give you a bottle of wine to enjoy while taking in the view over their vineyards.

2. Helderberg Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Waterkloof; Morgenster; Vergelegen; Avontuur.

There are five wine farms in the Somerset West area, which makes this an easy day trip from Cape Town.

Waterkloof offers the most spectacular views over Gordon’s Bay and Strand which you can take in over a three-course lunch in their glass-panelled restaurant. If that’s a little extravagant for your wallet, you can enjoy a wine tasting with a cheese platter to share either outside on the balcony or indoors by the fireplace. This biodynamic farm (of which most is dedicated to fynbos, not vineyards) also offers various packages where you can take a walk through the fynbos or go for a horse ride with lunch.

Avontuur is often mistaken for a thoroughbred horse farm when one drives past it, but in addition to breeding race horses they also produce wines which you can try in their tasting room. They are a popular breakfast spot (think champagne breakfast!) so best to book ahead and they also do dinners in their elegant restaurant on Wednesdays and Fridays. You can also go on a farm walk coupled with a speciality tasting and they host various special events, such as chocolate and wine pairings and the popular mares and foals walk.

Vergelgen is one of the most popular estates and it’s easy to see why! Beautiful historical buildings, magnificent gardens, a museum, a library, various restaurant choices and picnic spots coupled with loads of activities for families make this a full-day affair and well worth the R10 entrance fee.

Olive lovers will have a sensory overload at Morgenster with their olive oil tastings, but if you have more of a sweet tooth, they also do a chocolate and wine pairing in addition to wine tastings. Their restaurant overlooking a dam is open for lunch and dinners on select days of the week.

The well-loved and picturesque Lourensford (hosts of our Getaway Show) also has plenty on offer including a harvest market on Sundays, a coffee roastery, an art studio and a restaurant offering breakfast, lunch and dinner. Plus there’s wine tastings, chocolate and wine pairing, Turkish delight pairing and even a kiddies tasting.

3. Darling Wine Route

Darling is of course best known for its microbrewery Darling Brew (and any self-respecting alcohol fan would make a stop there) but there’s more to it than that. Just over an hour’s drive from Cape Town sees the beginning of the Darling Wine Route, which runs between the towns of Yzerfontein and Malmsbury.

Taste The Very Sexy Shiraz at Cloof Cellars while relaxing on their lawn or in their rustic tasting room where you can order light meals and cheese platters from their Cloof Kitchen.

Darling Cellars nearby also offers wine tasting from Monday to Saturday while Ormonde (in the town of Darling itself) offers chocolate and wine pairings, along with olive tastings.

Possibly the best known farm on the route, Groote Post is always worthy of a stop, be it for lunch at Hilda’s Kitchen or to enjoy a farm drive through the vineyards and their 2000 hectare game camp (bookings are essential). Groote Post also hosts a country market on the last Sunday of every month during the summer months. And it would be remiss of us not to mention Darling Olives, in Yzerfontein, where olive lovers can visit for a 30-minute tasting which includes their olive oils, olive chocolate, jams, pastes, rubs and various olives.

4. Elgin Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Restaurant at Oak Valley; Oak Valley entrance; trio of burgers at Highlands Road; Highlands Road.

Elgin is not only the biggest producer of apples: there are also 16 wine farms in the area (many only open by appointment). That makes for a long list, so here are a few that we can recommend you definitely visit.

Highlands Road is the perfect summer’s day escape where you can have a swim in their dam, scoff pizza or burgers on the lawn with a bottle or two of their wines while the kids play on the jungle gym. Well-behaved dogs are welcome too!

Oak Valley has a magnificent restaurant overlooking a swimming pool where you can tuck into country cuisine, including pork shoulder from their acorn-fed, free-range pigs and Wagyu beef when available. They also do breakfasts and picnics (November to April). Mountain bikers are in for a treat as Oak Valley have just collaborated with Paul Cluver allowing riders to cross their borders and cycle a 70km round-trip – one of the longest single-track rides in the country!

Other than mountain bike trails and wine tasting, Paul Cluver hosts summer concerts in their Hope Amphitheatre, a 600-seater natural amphitheatre surrounded by massive eucalyptus trees. Upcoming acts include Karen Zoid, The Parlotones, Watershed and Elvis Blue.

Art lovers should definitely visit South Hill, where you can enjoy a bistro-style lunch while perusing a variety of artworks including sculptures, paintings, photography, ceramics and mixed medium works. If you fancy spending the night, there’s a five bedroom luxury villa and a romantic honeymoon cottage. If you crave a glass of bubbly then Charles Fox is well worth a visit. The views from their tasting room make for a magnificent Cap Classique pairing!

5. Bot River Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Tasting room at Luddite; Ecology Lifestyle Farm; Beaumont; Gabrielskloof.

There’s a real sense of community amongst the people who live in Bot River which extends to the wine farms surrounding the town. The tasting room at Luddite has been beautifully redone with wine barrel lids embedded in the floor and there will soon be a deck where you can enjoy the views of the valley.

Gabriëlskloof serve breakfast sand lunches where you get to enjoy a beautiful view while savouring the flavours of your meal. The deli has a wide range of farm produce from olive oil to cheese to lavender soap and if you are looking for a wedding venue, they have their own chapel.

Beaumont Family Wines has the region’s oldest wine cellar and a working watermill that’s over 200 years old. In addition to creating fine wine the farm produces jams and preserves, along with stone ground flour from their historic watermill.

A must-visit along the R43 to Hermanus is the Ecology Lifestyle Farm where you can taste the Paardenkloof Wines while tucking into a delicious home-made meal from their small menu (they will soon be holding braais over the weekend). You can still go to their farm in Bot River to see their Nguni cows and taste their wines (new tasting room opening soon), but this is much more accessible!

If you are looking for places to stay along with wine-tasting, Wildekrans has a selection of luxury self-catering cottages and Beaumont has accommodation alongside their watermill, while Barton offer three Tuscan-style villas that sleep four to six people.

6. Hemel en Aarde Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Food and wine pairing at Creation; Sumaridge; Ataraxia; Domaine des Dieux.

Also known as the Hermanus Wine Route (it stretches from Hermanus to Caledon) this piece of ‘Heaven on Earth’ has something for everyone including over ten wine farms. At the beginning of the route is Whalehaven, where you can pair wines with chocolates and wine jams, along with a wine and perfume pairing, a unique experience that focuses only on the sense of smell.

At La Vierge the whole experience is over the top, from the view (even from the loo) to the bold and flamboyant décor. The names of their wines are slightly wicked too making for a fun addition to your wine collection.

If you love a gourmet food and wine pairing, Creation is the place to go. It’s quite a lavish affair and the pairings are as delicious to look at as they are to eat. If you have the time, take a look at their book on the farm – the story behind Creation is an inspiring tale involving dreams and determination.

The exquisite gardens and lake at Sumaridge make for a spectacular setting in which to enjoy a wine tasting while looking out over the view of mountains and sea. If you are feeling hungry, they offer various platters that can be paired with their wines.

Spookfontein’s face brick building hides a rather special treat – when you step through the wooden doors you are met with views that are out of this world, accompanied by beautiful artworks and elaborate chandeliers. You can taste three wines free of charge and ELL restaurant serves delicious pizzas and various platters.

You can also enjoy a tasting of Ataraxia wines in a chapel at the foot of the Babylonstoren mountains where the view is simply heavenly.

MCC fans will relish sipping bubbly in a stylish shed while taking in another fantastic view at Domaine Des Dieux. Picnic baskets are also available, but must be pre-ordered 36 hours before your visit. Then there is The Restaurant at Newton Johnson where you can tuck into a decadent two or three-course lunch, a four-course dinner or a six-course tasting menu.

Take a self-guided nature walk through the beautiful Bouchard Finlayson estate, followed by a wine-tasting. If you don’t want to drive yourself along the Hemel en Aarde wine route, you can book a tour with Hermanus Wine Hoppers who will take you to all the wineries in the valley.

7. Stanford Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Sir Robert Stanford; Stanford Hills; Boschrivier; Springfontein.

Stanford is a well-loved weekend getaway for Capetonians and their eight wine farms have plenty to offer with beautiful restaurants, picnics and overnight accommodation. Sir Robert Stanford Estate has an interesting history and while you are there you can take their Vineyard Tram to the vineyards (good for a group outing) and also enjoy a Grappa cocktail at the Fynbos Distillery while keeping an eye out for Pinky and Ponky, their resident pot-bellied pigs.

Kids will love Stanford Hills with its fantastic playground against a backdrop of Pinotage-yielding grapevines. They also do Sunday roasts, have live bands and you are welcome to swim in their dam.

Raka’s tasting room has an amazing view to savour while sipping on their award-winning wines and there’s also a build-your-own-picnic option that includes cheeses, meats, breads, olives and various condiments. Next door to Raka is Boschrivier, a charming spot in a restored homestead with a small restaurant offering light meals and a selection of local arts and crafts are also on sale.

It’s not surprising that Springfontein is a popular venue for lunch with its wonderfully quirky décor and relaxed atmosphere. The Bar(n) offers cheese boards and light meals, while Eats is a slightly pricier two and three-course gourmet affair. Look out for the Limestone Rocks wines, named after the owner’s favourite rock songs and the whisky bar that will be opening soon!

Beer lovers can enjoy beer-tasting at Birkenhead Brewery and Misty Mountains – both offer wine tastings as well, along with various food options from burgers to cheese platters.

If you are looking for an affordable place to stay, then Vaalvlei would be a good option, especially if you are looking to get back to nature, enjoy trout fishing and have a love of frogs (ask owner, Naas Terblanche to show you his frog video). The port is also very good!

8. Elim Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Tasting room at Strandveld; Sijnn near Malgas; burger and potato wedges at The Black Oystercatcher; The Black Oystercatcher.

Did you know that the vineyards in Elim date back to 1824 when the Moravian missionaries planted vines for sacramental winemaking purposes? Today you can visit established wine farms in the area and go for a walk through the Moravian town of Elim where children play in the streets and residents wave hello from their homes.

The Black Oystercatcher has a restaurant (the building is over 100 years old and has been a dairy parlour, stables and has even housed ostriches) where you can enjoy a lunch (the potato wedges are great!) and is a good choice for an overnight stay in their well-equipped self-catering cottages where you can enjoy a braai with a view while relaxing on chairs made from wine barrels. They also have a game area with buffalo, hippo, quagga, bontebok, eland and springbok. In the near future you will also be able to tuck into deli offerings along with craft beer and hotdogs at their Brewhouse.

The tasting room at Strandveld is in a lovely colonial-style building with beautiful gardens that you are welcome to explore while enjoying a tasting of their Portuguese-explorer-inspired wines. They also offer self-catering accommodation and mountain bikers are welcome to take on the farm dirt tracks.

Sijnn is part of the Elim collection, but is a fair distance away, being closer to Malgas. However, it’s well worth the drive along the dirt roads to witness wine farming in truly rugged conditions – with a team of only five people who do everything from pruning and picking to stomping, bottling and labelling. The tasting room (open by appointment) has stunning views over the Breede River and they occasionally have platters, pizza and burgers available too.

9. Breedekloof Wine Route

There are 16 wineries in the Rawsonville, Slanghoek, Goudini and Breede River area: it’s also known as the Route Less Travelled. At Jason’s Hill the kids can enjoy the rolling lawns, swings and sandpit while parents tuck into lunch at the bistro. They also have a hiking trail with beautiful views of the Slanghoek Mountains.

At Slanghoek you can blend and bottle your own wine or take on a mountain biking trail, while at Badsberg you can do a wine and photo pairing, where every wine and photo has a story!

The stylishly decorated Bistro at Bergsig offers a relaxed dining atmosphere while enjoying the views of their vineyards and Bainskloof. They also have mountain biking routes if you want to build up an appetite before lunch and a bird watching route if you fancy a stroll after your meal.

If you have a sweet tooth and enjoy more quirky surroundings, try a cupcake pairing at Kirabo. If you are feeling peckish in the afternoon, get to Opstal’s new deck where you can enjoy wine tasting while nibbling on snacks or give their cheese and wine pairing a go. They also serve breakfasts, light meals, pies and burgers.

Craft beer lovers should visit Du Toitskloof who, in addition to craft beer, have half-price pizza happy hour every Friday evening.

10. Klein Karoo Wine Route

Clockwise from left: Grundheim; Karoo Vine in Ladismith; Mymering; Boplaas.

From Montagu through to Ladismith, Calitzdorp, Oudtshoorn and De Rust, this is the ultimate roadtripping wine route! There are 20 wineries on this route, each as diverse as the wines of the region and you’ll need a few days (or weeks) to really enjoy them.

Heading from Montagu towards Barrydale, pop into Akkerboom Farm Stall to taste Star Hill Wines – being a padstal it makes for a good spot to enjoy breakfast or a homemade pie while tasting wines.

If you don’t stop there, Joubert-Tradauw just before Barrydale has a deli where the Route 62 Platter comes highly recommended!

A visit to Mymering just outside of Ladismith is a must – it’s a beautiful spot beneath the Towerkop mountains and owner/winemaker Andy Hillock is an interesting man to talk to (he’s been a pilot and a surgeon before turning his talents to wine). You can also stay on the farm in their fabulous suites, complete with plunge pools under the Karoo stars.

If you are just passing through Ladismith, pop into the Karoo Vine – it must be the cutest wine shop in the country and it has all the wines from the region.

Calitzdorp is a charming country town on it’s own, but while you are there make sure you visit De Krans and Boplaas (they are famous for their delicious port-style wines). At De Krans you can enjoy lunch at their deli while the kids play in the playground, try a wine, port and biscotti pairing and in December you can pick peaches!

Grundheim will knock your socks off (literally) with their Witblits tastings! The tasting room itself is as charming as their labelling.

Just outside Oudtshoorn is Karusa, the place to go for craft beer and tapas. Make sure you don’t miss the Doornkraal Padstal between Oudtshoorn and De Rust where you can taste wines from the region, browse local artworks, grab a delicious homemade pie for the road and a colourful ostrich feather duster for your aunt.

In De Rust (this arty one-horse town has a wonderful appeal of its own) you can visit Excelsior Vlakteplaas to taste their award-winning Muscadel and Jerepigo wines, but you have to make an appointment (their wines are for sale at Doornkraal Padstal).

Been anywhere special that we should know about? Tell us in the comments below.

Compiled by Rachel Robinson

This area is central to three major cities, good value (considering that many prices are all-inclusive) – and staggeringly beautiful. Our Pippa De Bruyn picked these 11 plum Northern Drakensberg escapes.  Photographs by Teagan Cunniffe.

How it works:

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years, inspected 21 properties – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 11 made her list.

The case for Northern Drakensberg

Proximity
Easy to get to in under four hours from either Bloemfontein, Joburg and Durban, and extremely scenic (particularly from the newly reopened R74), the proximity of the Northern Drakensberg to every other major city socks a big FOMO to any nature-loving Capetonian.

Views, views and views
Just as you think you really can’t be whipping out your camera again you crest another pass or trail and are stopped dead in your tracks by a vista that gives real meaning to the word majestic. Listening to the wind, gurgling rivers and birdsong, dwarfed by your surrounds, you almost need to pinch yourself to check that it’s all real.

It’s undeveloped and wild
Unlike the Central Berg, parts of which were parcelled off and developed fairly intensively, enormous tracts of land adjoining the Royal Natal National Park are owned by a relatively small group of passionate conservationists. Together they are determined to keep this a pristine wilderness area, free from further development. Their synergy means you can combine different experiences easily, such as riding out on horseback from Montusi Mountain Lodge to Greenfire Lodge (about eight kilometres away), overnighting there and returning the next day.

The nature
Swimming and fishing in natural rock pools and rivers; clambering up to dramatic waterfalls, caves with San rock art and through indigenous forests; exploring a net- work of over 100 kilometres of trails marked for hiking, biking, riding and trail running – this World Heritage Site is one great gorgeous playpen.

It’s an adventure centre
All Out is fabulous at organising activities from zip lining and extraordinary bungee jumps to quad biking. The centre provides maps and passes for the colour-coded trails, guide services, and bike rentals and repairs. alloutadventures.co.za

Family hospitality
There is something very special about family- owned and managed lodges and hotels; they tend to have a spirit of generosity and warmth that replenishes the soul. The Northern Berg is home to a network of these properties, some of which have the hospitality gene running through three generations.

Best for total defrag

1. Greenfire Lodge Drakensberg

TripAdvisor No. 1 of 3 hotels, Bergville (listed as Drifters)

As the rutted track ascends higher and higher, so does your heart, until finally, you are on top of the world, looking back at a vista that sweeps from the Amphitheatre to Cathkin Peak. The lodge itself is delightful: a cosy lounge/dining log cabin with views from every window and sofas that invite reclining around the central fireplace. There are nine log cabins (two-bedroom family cabins and en-suite one-bedroom cabins) each with a log-burning fireplace and powered by solar. Good home-cooked meals are enjoyed around a communal table. Part of the Greenfire Lodge Collection (formerly Drifters), this is pitched at those wanting a big nature fix, in a place that is intimate but not claustrophobic. Some may find it basic but this is my kind of luxury: warm and well-fed in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by a 2 000-hectare wilderness and 1 800 metres above sea level yet dwarfed by cliffs that are home to a colony of Cape vultures.
Room tip: Be sure to specify a double bed when booking if romance is on the cards. The family log cabins have balconies with the best views but are in the teeth of the wind.
Cost: R795 per person sharing, full board.
Contact: greenfire.co.za

Best small family resort

2. The Cavern

TripAdvisor No. 2 of 11 Speciality Lodging, Bergville

Like Cathedral Peak, this is a third-generation family- owned resort located at the end of a road truncated by soaring mountains, but this is a far more intimate and cosy experience. Tucked into the lee of steep wooded slopes, the hotel developed organically on the terraced veld. While the decor is more modern than Cathedral Peak, the renovations are more sensitive to the original 1940s ethos, and the combination is very pleasing indeed. With just 55 rooms in blocks arranged in such a way that the hotel feels small, and plenty of semi-private terraces to enjoy the views, this manages to be both family friendly and boutique-like, with a fantastic wine cellar attached to the cave-bar (best selection of wine in the Berg, at prices that encourage sampling by the case); there’s a uniquely located spa too – cantilevered above the forest – and the largest, sexiest pool. Great value too.
Room tip Standard rooms are great (I particularly liked the decor in block 40 to 47), with everything you need (unless it’s a TV, in which case a Superior).
Cost From R1100 per person including all meals, teas and guided walks. Check out the Activities Calendar 2016, which includes yoga, photography and sketching weekends.
Contact cavern.co.za

Best for foodies

3. Montusi Mountain Lodge

TripAdvisor No. 1 of 5 Speciality Lodging, Bergville

Montusi Mountain Lodge opened in 2000 and is the most manicured and sophisticated option in the Northern Berg, with luxuries such as a nightly turn-down with homemade chocolates and haute cuisine dinners that are a real highlight. The four-course set menu offers a small but great choice – if you’re hard-pressed, order one of each and share. Having rehabilitated the 1 000-hectare farm to encourage the return of birdlife and antelope, the extremely hospitable Carte family (also third- generation hoteliers) purpose-built their lodge to create ‘the privilege of space and peace’: as such there are just 16 free standing thatched garden suites dotted on the well-groomed lawns, all with mountain views. Each cottage has a separate lounge area with gas fireplace and TV/DVD; the capacious family suites have two en-suite bedrooms. There’s lots to do on the farm, plus All Out Adventure Centre is just down the drag.
Room tip: Garden suites 11, 12 and 14 have particularly unimpeded views.
Cost From R1715 per person for a Garden Suite DBB, including a daily guided hike.
Contact montusi.co.za

Best self-catering eco camp

4. Sungubala Eco-camp

TripAdvisor No. 8 of 11 Speciality Lodging, Bergville

A dirt track twists up the mountain (no 4×4 required) to reach a small plateau and a low-key rustic eco camp dwarfed by the
2 000-metre-high mountain after which it is named. There are several self-catering options: two double-storey chalets (each sleeping five in two bedrooms), a mountain bungalow (sleeping six) and central Camels Camp, comprising three thatched en-suite two-bedroom rondavels (sleeping four each), two twin-bed A-frame units with their own ablutions and three small thatched A-frame units that share a communal ablution block. Aside from the two double-storey chalets, Camel Camp (sleeping up to 22) is preferably booked by one party to share the large kitchen and communal lounge. In fact, this is a great option for a group of up to 28 (more, if you don’t mind camping) celebrating a special occasion. Views are spectacular: huge forest-clad slopes topped by sheer cliffs that fill your horizon, with extras such as daily servicing, guided hikes and a swimming pool.
Room tip Jackal chalet enjoys plum position: right at the edge of the property with an uninterrupted view of Sungubala mountain. Of the rondavels, number four has the best view.
Cost Jackal and Eland chalets are R1700 (sleep five each). Mountain Bungalow R1400 (sleeps six). En-suite rondavels (sleep four) and the A-frame units (sleep two) are R400 per person.
Contact sungubala.co.za

Best large family resort

5. Cathedral Peak

TripAdvisor No. 2 of 6 Hotels, Winterton

Opened in 1939, Cathedral Peak is the second-oldest Berg hotel (Mont-Aux-Sources, made bland by successive attempts at modernity, was first) and enjoys the most fantastic location of them all. At the end of a long winding road that terminates in a valley, cupped and dwarfed by rugged mountain peaks that spawn thundering rivers, it’s an environment that begs to be explored, with 18 hike trails to walk. Still owned by the Van de Riet family, it has grown to accommodate 254 guests in 104 rooms, and is designed to captivate all ages: from bingo, heli-flips, fishing, golf and archery to every kind of racquet game, plus a daily entertainment programme and a separate, well-staffed dining room for young children. Some original architectural aspects have been marred, but the overall atmosphere is still wonderfully nostalgic, a place that has clearly provided many happy memories for generations.
Room tip Standard thatched rondavels 103 to 108 and standard rooms 51 to 59 have the most unobstructed views. The best rooms are the seven honeymoon suites (notably 405 to 407).
Cost From R1420 per person sharing DBB including teas and guided walks. There is a minimum two-night stay on weekends.
Contact cathedralpeak.co.za

Best farm

6. Toplodge

TripAdvisor No. 4 of Speciality Lodging, Bergville

‘Hold on tight,’ says Gavin Everitt – who offers complimentary transfers to his mountain eyrie for those not in a 4×4 – and we set off up the steep and narrow track, leaving the ‘real’ world behind. In a valley of beautiful farms, Toplodge takes the cake: en route to its three cottages we passed valleys covered in wildflowers, eland grazing in long grass and breathtaking vistas. Chestnut, Yellow Wood and Teakwood cottages are within sight of each other but all positioned to offer a private mountain vantage. Decor is spartan; the cottages are spacious and open-plan (the bedroom faces the lounge, which opens to the kitchen with a dining counter), each with a wood-burning fireplace. But the real reason you’re here is for the expansive valley view – not a house or human in sight, just enormous space, enough to feel your spirit soar.
Cabin tip Book Teakwood (sleeps two) for its private orientation, 270-degree views and shaded patio with built-in braai. Chestnut is the only family cabin (sleeps four). Yellow Wood is being rebuilt; Gavin is planning an alfresco double shower on the upstairs deck!
Cost R1100 for two sharing. Additional adults R475 per person, children R240 each (six to 11).
No children under six.
Contact toplodge.co.za



Best B&B and more

7. Berghouse & cottages

TripAdvisor No. 1 of 14 B&B/Inn, Bergville

Vaughn and Chantal Piccione offer you the best of both worlds: a well-equipped cottage – decorated for comfort and with country charm – along with the option of having the most delicious breakfasts and dinners delivered piping hot to your terrace or fireside dining table. This combination – the privacy and space of your own cottage, together with the service you’d get from a well-run guest house – is a winner, along with the easy hospitality of the Piccione family. You could spend the day just lolling around your cottage (très romantic, with double beds in front of log fireplaces), enjoying the occasional visit from the free-roaming miniature horses, but the 500-hectare estate beckons seven kilometres of river frontage, three dams, plenty of trails and fabulous mountain views in every direction.
Cottage tip All eight cottages are delightful but Phezulu (sleeps two) and Thokomala (sleeps 12) have the added benefit of the most unimpeded mountain views.
Cost From R450 per person self-catering, R540 per person B&B or R700 per person DBB.
Contact berghouse.co.za

Worth a look

8. Drakensberg Mountain Retreat is another definite category winner, featuring more jaw- dropping 100 kilometre-wide views (similar to those enjoyed from Dumbe cottages, located on the neighbouring farm, see far right), and is an authentic family- and pet-friendly farmhouse with just nine rooms. Cuisine and service are authentically farm-style – warm and comforting. Wild free-roaming horses add to the picturesque scenes. From R670 pp sharing. drakensbergretreat.co.za

9. Little Switzerland is back in business with the R74 finally open. The resort is set on a 3000-hectare farm with a fantastic elevated location off the Oliviershoek Pass. The self- catering chalets – built in a row on its lip and highest point – have the most awe-inspiring views and are the choice pick here. From R1200 (sleeps four) and from R1750 (sleeps six). lsh.co.za

10.Thendele has to be on every South African bucket list, with a setting that truly is unparalleled: at the base of the Amphitheatre, you literally have a front-row seat to the most majestic mountainscape in Africa. Upper Camp cabins are more modern and in better shape, and Lower Camp enjoys more unimpeded views but its cabin interiors are looking a little tired. Units 15 to 27 (upper) and 1 to 14 (lower) have the best views. There is no restaurant. From R1 000 for two. kznwildlife.com

11. Amphitheatre Backpackers Lodge is a fun gathering place, attracting a constant stream of gregarious budget travellers. The lodge has a variety of accommodation options of which the Deluxe Private Double, with a view of the Amphitheatre, is best. R720 (sleeps four). amphibackpackers.co.za

12. Dumbe (In our mountain cabin story) cottages are the best self-catering cottages if you are looking for romance, solitude and a gobsmacking view. For the full review, turn to page 72. Ingwe Cabin is the bolthole of George and Suzette Spies It’s not as slick as more commercially run enterprises such as neighbouring Greenfire Lodge but the secluded location – at the base of a mountain peak, surround- ed by alpine-like meadows – makes it a sublime spot. See page 71 for the full review.

*Prices and rankings correct at time of going to publication

Where to next?

Tweet us at @getawaymagazine and @pippadebruyn with the next location you’d like us to research.

Read the full story in the June 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our June issue is packed full of great winter holiday ideas. On shelves from 23 May.

Most of us at Getaway love hiking. And over the years we’ve accumulated a fair number of useful tips about hikes: from exactly what to pack on the Fish River Canyon, to how many steps it takes to tackle the Tankwa Camino.

So here’s a complete list of all the South African hikes we have written about in the last year or two, as well as the ones we’re dreaming of doing soon. We figure it’s a pretty good indication of what every hiker should aim to do in South Africa. Got anything to add? Tell us in the comments!

Multi-day hikes

1. The Tankwa Camino

Our gear editor, Melanie, looking more cheerful than she sometimes felt.

The Tankwa Camino is not easy. The route takes you from Calvinia to Ceres, through the heart of the Karoo, and walking those 256.6 kms was the hardest thing our journalist Melanie van Zyl had ever done. (And she’s a tough cookie.) Read her story – and why it was ultimately worth it – below.

Read the story: walking the Tankwa Camino

2. The Otter Trail

A friend checks out the stormy seas. Photo taken from the Oakhurst hut boma. Photo by Chris Davies.

The Otter Trail needs no introduction: one of South Africa’s most famous hikes, it takes you through coastal forest, river crossings, and viewpoints like this. Bookings open a year in advance – and sell out quickly, especially on dates which are optimal for river crossings. Our Gear editor recently explored the beautiful hike for an upcoming issue: but in the meanwhile, enjoy these photos from former journo, Chris Davies.

See the photos: what it’s like to hike the Otter Trail

3. The Leopard Trail

My favourite camping site was on night three, and specifically because of this incredible scene just 15 minutes walk down the road. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Taking you through the wide-open spaces of the Baviaanskloof, The Leopard Trail is one of the newer options on this list. We covered this 55km slackpacking route in our April issue this year – click below to see more breathtaking photos from the assignment.

See the photos: behind-the-scenes on the Leopard Trail

4. Fish River Canyon

The Palm (Sulphur) Springs on day 2. Photo by Chris Davies.

If you’re looking to do the Fish River Canyon hike, you’re in luck. This infamous 90km trail is definitely not for slack packers – and in order to truly enjoy the beauty of the area, you’ll need to be prepared. Luckily, we’ve got a day-by-day breakdown with survival tips, photos, and suggestions, so you don’t make the same mistakes we did.

Also read: how to survive hiking the Fish River Canyon

5. Tsitsikamma Trail

The hike begins with a stroll on the beach; then it meanders through beautiful coastal forest. Photo by Morgan Trimble.

If you can’t get a booking on the uber-popular Otter Trail, this coastal route is a beautiful alternative. In the words of journalist Morgan Trimble, “the trail crosses many of the same rivers as the Otter, climbs numerous ridges and covers 64 kilometres over six days before reaching Storms River Bridge, near where the Otter Trail starts. Despite its 35-year existence, the Tsitsikamma remains relatively unknown and, thankfully, bookings are easy to come by.”

Read the story: The best hike you’ve never heard of

6. Walking trails in Kruger

Left: our homes for three nights. Each A-frame sleeps two and there are four in total. If you don’t completely book out the walk with eight people, you could bunk with people you don’t know. Right: on all walks you are accompanied by two experienced rangers equipped with rifles.

Yes, there are more than one! From multi-day wilderness trails to day hikes, seeing Kruger at eye level is a completely different experience of the park, according to Melanie van Zyl.

Read the story: the best walking trails in Kruger

7. Green Mountain Trail

The Green Mountain Trail is a new luxury slack-packing option in the Overberg, and combines two of our favourite things: rolling mountains and wine tasting. It was Welcome Lishivha’s first experience of a multi-day hike, and we figure that he’s spoiled for life. We’ll be featuring it in our upcoming November issue, which is on shelves 24 October.

8. Limpopo / Mpumalanga hiking route

Hikers gaze out at the granite peak of Thabaphaswa from The Lookout. Photo by Shaen Adey.

Unlike the other hikes on this list, this is a self-drive route, and it’ll take a week or more. But it links up five best hiking in Limpopo and Mpumalanga, and will take you through some of the most beautiful scenery in South Africa.

Read the story: five breathtaking hikes near Joburg 

9. Rim of Africa

The Rim of Africa is one of the longest hikes on the continent, but can be tackled in nine week-long sections. Photo from Rim of Africa.

We haven’t been on the Rim of Africa hiking trail yet, but we had to mention it: it’s absolute bucketlist material. Linking up the Cederberg and Outeniqua mountains, the entire thru-hike is almost 650km long and takes about three months to complete. Most people tackle it in sections though, which range from 60 to 100 kms each.

Day hikes

10. Table Mountain’s three peaks

Following the ledges up from the saddle to Maclear’s Beacon is not easy. The path disappears in the thick undergrowth and it’s easy to lose your way. The views, however, are fantastic. Photo by Chris Davies.

Think you’re tough enough? This nine-hour hike takes you from Devil’s Peak, along the saddle up to Maclear’s Beacon, then down the terrifying face of Kloof Corner to Lion’s Peak. As Chris Davies says, “it’s not a hike for the faint-hearted, but if you’re reasonably fit, aren’t scared of heights, and (importantly) can find someone who’s been through the tricky sections before, then it’s hard to imagine a more exciting and rewarding way to hike on Table Mountain.”

Read the story: hiking Table Mountain’s three peaks in one day

11. Hiking the Hennops Trail

The wobbly suspension bridge crosses over the Hennops River. Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

Just 40 minutes from Joburg, you’ll find streams, hills, and beautiful views. There are two main hikes, plus a shorter trail suitable for kids. There’s plenty of scenery to soak up and a swimming pool to splash in post-hike. Get your playmates together, set a date and strap on your tekkies.

Read the story: hiking the Hennops trail

12. Hiking Lion’s Head

Overlooking Camps Bay for sunset. Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

According to our Photo Editor, Teagan Cunniffe, there’s no better place to watch the sun-set in Cape Town than Lion’s Head. Looking at her photos, we’re inclined to agree.

See the photos: hiking Lion’s Head at sunset

Hiking in Clarens

You can easily see why the route coming past this rock is known as ‘Mushroom Hike.’ Photo by Melanie van Zyl.

There are four trails on the grounds of St Fort Country House, in Clarens. The tracks, which clamber up the sandstone hills surrounding the picturesque country house, differ in physical difficulty and there is something for everyone. ‘Mushroom Hike’ is a beautiful short walk past mielie fields, along a willow-filled river, then up gravel pathways and a ladder to the shapely eponymous rock pictured above.

Read the story: hiking at St Fort Country House in Clarens

 
Of course, we still haven’t managed to do everything. We’d love to hear from you: what are the hikes you think every South African should experience? Let us know in the comments!

More and more, travellers are seeking experiences and adventures over touristy things such as sightseeing and merely taking pictures. Here’s a list of adventures that we at Getaway have done and loved, and think are steadily being recognised for the thrill they offer.

1. Ski in France

If you’ve always wanted to go skiing and perhaps find yourself in Europe, we found the best and most affordable European skiing destination for South Africans. This destination is ideal for people who are new to skiing because you will get good deals, especially for learners. One of our journalists, Chris Davies, did this trip earlier this year and in total it cost him R19000, including lessons.

Read: The French Alpine village of Les Gets – the perfect place to learn to ski

2. Cycle in Europe

There is no better place to do city-cycling than Europe. With European bike-share schemes, you get to cut down on the cost of moving around a country while also getting to know the place. Cycling is particularly popular and convenient for central places like Paris, Warsaw, Berlin, Vienna, Budapest. Here’s how to navigate these awesome cities by bike – and do it on a budget.

Read: These bike-share schemes are the best way to see Europe’s big cities

3. Eat delicious food in Chile

Every traveller looks forward to new cuisine wherever they go and if indeed the way to one’s heart is through food, then Chile will be capturing a lot of hearts in the years to come. Enjoying a new-found confidence in its flourishing food, wine and beer offerings, Chile’s food culture is certainly one to look out for.

Read: The foodie’s guide to Chile

4. Walk with elephants in Namibia

The Chobe River has fantastic views and stretches from Botswana into Namibia’s Zambezi region (formerly Caprivi strip). It is regarded as one of the best places to see the greatest elephant herds in Africa and judging from the picture below, taken by Melanie Van Zyl while on assignment there, it’s impossible to debate that sentiment.

Read: Walking with Namibia’s wise giants

5. Scuba dive in Indonesia

The Komodo National Park is fast becoming a popular scuba diving destination for the marine life it has to offer. Unfortunately, this adventure is not recommended for novice divers because of the intensity of diving, however, this doesn’t stop you practising locally so long and planning your trip ahead of time.

Read: Scuba diving at Komodo National Park

6. Hike in Thailand

The Chiang Dao Nature Trail offers some of the best sights that Thailand has to offer and is a must-do for anyone visiting Thailand. The hiking trail, which translates into ‘city of stars’ will offer you views of mountain peaks and elevations of the surrounding area. On a recent assignment for Getaway, our Digital Content Manager, Kati Auld had a good portion of this trail and a nearby valley all to herself and she agrees that it’s magical.

Read: In photos: what you don’t know about Thailand

7. Gorilla trek in Rwanda

Seeing gorillas in Rwanda was an intense experience for our columnist, Darrel Bristow-Bovey. Gorilla conservation has played a significant role in the economic development of Rwanda, which is still on the rise. If this adventure is on your bucketlist, this story is vital reading.

Read: Here’s our guide on how to see gorillas in Rwanda

8. Camp in Kenya

If you are one of those tourists who’ve visited Kenya for a package safari tour only, you’ve missed out on the relatively unknown and under recognised amazing variety of camping spots across the country. Camping in Kenya offers adventurous travellers the opportunity to escape the crowds and experience the country’s most beautiful camping sites.

Read: Escape the crowds at 11 of the wildest campsites in Kenya

9. Snorkel in Egypt

Dahab is slowly but steadily establishing itself as a centre for snorkelling and scuba diving. Based on the south-east coast of the Sinai Peninsula, this destination connects Africa and Asia and links the Mediterranean and the Red Sea. There are plenty of water adventures to do in this area – snorkelling and scuba diving offer the most ‘eye enriching experiences’ – that won’t leave you disappointed.

Read: 3 of the best snorkelling spots in Dahab, Egypt

10. Go tiger fishing on the Zambezi river

There is no better place to spot tiger fishes than the Zambezi river. On assignment for our July issue, Melanie Van Zyl discovered that tiger fishes in the Zambezi do indeed live in a heavenly environment. If you ever embark on this adventure, you will get the opportunity to catch some of the best tiger fishes while enjoying majestic sunsets and splendid views of the river.

Read: The most heavenly places to go tiger fishing

Vuyi Qubeka’s parents had never been camping. So she decided to get them to try it. The experience surprised even her. Photographs by Teagan Cunniffe.

Feeling like the luckiest girl in the world out with my parents on their first camping experience.

I’ve been working at Getaway for more than two years and I’ve come to appreciate that camping is a really big deal, for white people especially. I myself had tried it when I went on assignment with fellow journalist and old-time camper Melanie van Zyl. It was a thrill and she made it seem so easy. Those were my first lessons in camping, though it was the rooftop kind, and those lessons stuck. But in my culture, travel for leisure is still in its infancy, and there are many reasons for this. When visiting my gogo in Ndunduma in KwaZulu-Natal when I was younger, my cousins, siblings and I would all have to sleep on the floor simply because there just wasn’t enough room or beds in the house. I still know families whose lives are lived that way and I can understand why many people of colour don’t rush for the floor.

So I decided to take the parentals camping for the first time because I was curious for us to explore and maybe even understand why it’s such a big deal and is so popular in South Africa. Also, I just wanted to enjoy my parents in the open air, without any of my siblings (although I adore them). This would be a first: just Mom, Dad and me.

My parents have never been camping. Well, my dad sort of has, once… ‘It was in 1974 and we were four young couples in the wild at Lovers Rock [Family Resort] in Magaliesburg,’ he told me. ‘It was a spontaneous decision worth exploring then. We had insufficient equipment and no professional advice, but sufficient meat to burn a braai of the year. It was during apartheid and we weren’t allowed inside the facility, so we created our own shack experience outside the campgrounds.’ I’m discounting his first experience, though, for obvious reasons.

The great outdoors gave us reason to unplug.

We meet up with Getaway photographer Teagan Cunniffe and Marshall Rinquest, who’d be our ‘camping expert’. Marshall is based in the town of Greyton in the Western Cape and is a permaculture specialist and camp master. The drive is gratifying and the roads are straight and tranquil. We’re getting a little lost, but we know we’re close and call Mokala National Park for directions. ‘Are you facing the sunset?’ they ask. We are, and so we continue, led by the departing sun. The sky is brushed in an array of burnt orange, yellow and pink hues as the sun sets. The clouds whisper promises of a calm night and birdsong lingers in the air. After nearly seven hours of driving, we finally arrive at Mokala National Park and the wilderness is embracing. We stretch our feet and Marshall surveys the site for the perfect spots for our tents. I hear my dad’s boisterous laugh and then some talking, and there he is, hand in hand with an ouma, both smiling. My dad speaks nine of the 11 official languages. ‘This is Auntie Pulane,’ my dad gushes to us. ‘Hoe gaan dit, Ouma?’ I ask. ‘She’s our neighbour,’ he explains. Ouma’s real name is Anna Marie Pistorius, but she prefers her Sesotho name, Pulane.

Preparing ingredients for a spectacular breakfast.

My mom smiles and we embrace gogo and chat about life like friends. Ouma is in her mid-seventies and she and her best friend, Ouma Annatjie, and their husbands travel for six months of the year, camping in various parks across SA and in neighbouring countries. Their set-up is like a home away from home, with those big caravans that open up to roomy bedrooms. They give us a tour inside their mobile homes, which stand opposite each other, both with a veranda situation outside, and tables that hold a makeshift kitchen. Each ouma has her own potjie pot and each oupa has his braai stand. Ouma Pulane tells us that Mokala National Park offers 60 percent off for pensioners between Sunday and Thursday in low season. A pretty impressive way to live out your days! ‘Sien julle môre,’ says Ouma Pulane, and turns and leaves.

Marshall’s got my dad working the tent. It’s a massive, bright-orange Coleman Signature 7-Person Instant Dome that’s quite simple to put up and break down. Dad compares it to a home. (It’s not, but I know what he means.) My mother and I are pumping up our mattress and putting food away, and I make our nest nice. My mother seems peaceful; a contented smile rests on her face. She had so many questions before coming here: ‘What if it rains? The lightning – I don’t like the lightning, especially when trees surround me. The bathrooms – do I have to do it in the open veld? And what about my morning coffee – do I have to make a fire first? I love my cuppa in the morning…’ But we have our home comforts and so all is well.

Enjoying the outdoors and splendid views through a lovely game drive.

My dad calls for wine o’clock and announces that he’ll be braaiing – not the most frequent of proclamations – as long as someone makes the fire, and Marshall graciously gets it started. They have a good rapport, the two of them. We sink deeper into the magic of the night. Soon my mother, Marshall, Teagan and I are doubled over with laughter as Dad pours out his memories behind the rising smoke from the sizzling meat. He proudly wears a beautiful African-print apron and oven glove set he bought in Ghana. On his head is a headlamp lent to him by Teagan. ‘I believe camping is life-changing,’ says Marshall reflectively. ‘To be sleeping outdoors and getting in touch with nature in that way is needed for any human.’

We sit under the stars, with air so clear it takes my breath away. We’re recalling, enjoying and sharing our tales. We flow with the wine. Here’s Teagan, my young white colleague from Durban; Marshall, a descendant of the Khoi who grew up in Greyton and was taught about the sacredness of the Sonderend Mountains and their medicinal powers by his grandfather; my dad from Soweto, a streetwise and inspiring businessman with mad tenacity, who has only a standard-seven education; and my mother, the lightest, kindest being I know, who has spent virtually all her leave days heading home to take care of family, and who has carried me through so much with grace and gladness; and me, trying to do my best at this life thing. All of us sit there, in the palm of nature. In this moment, none of these labels is important.

RIGHT: My dad appreciating the view on a game drive through another lens. LEFT: There were plenty of warthogs grazing that we saw over the game drive.

In the morning, we ready ourselves for a game drive. ‘My sleeping bag was so snug and comfortable,’ shares my mother, ‘and the blow-up bed provided so much comfort that I actually didn’t miss sleeping on my bed at all.’ And neither did I. On our drive we see the tsessebi, black wildebeest, white-backed vulture, roan antelope and numerous indigenous plant species. We stop at a beautiful picnic spot after an hour or so of driving and enjoy fruit under a huge tree. There’s nervous excitement at the thought of animals appearing at any moment. Breakfast back at camp consists of delicious beans (the camper’s standard) courtesy of my mother’s recipe, pork bangers, tomatoes and boiled eggs. I watch my parents read while sitting on their camp chairs overlooking the watering hole and I’m glad that we’re here as a family; things weren’t easy after their divorce. Just then, Ouma Pulane comes over and we talk about the weather. And apparently there was a visitor outside my dad’s tent the previous night, so she and my dad try to read the footprints. Findings are inconclusive.

That evening, Marshall teaches us to make bread and prepares a yummy veggie potjiekos. (He’s vegetarian.) Feeling even more at ease, we discuss everything from politics to the benefits of medicinal marijuana. We decide to have an early one, and as I put my head down on the pillow, drops lightly tap on our tent and then the skies make way for divine rainfall. Thunder roars. My mom is asleep next to me and I edge closer, my toes toasty in my sleeping bag, to feel her warmth. I feel like the luckiest girl in the world.

Camping tip:
If you’re not keen to shell out for camping equipment without being sure that you like camping, try Camping Khapela first. It’s a butler service and all you need to do is pack your bags, show up and relax. My younger brother and I joined founder, Karabo Sepharatla, on a trip to Mountain Sanctuary Park in Magaliesburg. Our butler forgot to tell us to bring our pillows and blankets, so we made a detour to the Pep store in Mooinooi. Bedding blunder aside, it was a fun and convenient way to try out camping. Karabo also made a tasty potjie ‒ best I’ve tasted. The cost depends on the destination. A trip to Magaliesburg is from R1800 per person for two nights. Breakfasts, dinners and snacks during the journey are included. Contact: 0718173945, campingkhapela.com

Plan your trip

Before you go:
As we drove out of the park I thought about the planning for this trip. It wasn’t easy and a huge task for a beginner. Cape Union Mart made it easy for us and had everything we needed to get started, but for the average South African it’s still a big initial financial investment. However, once I’d offloaded the car and heard those whispers from nature, it all felt well worth it.

Getting there:
Mokala National Park is about 70 kilometres south-southwest of Kimberley. We used the route via Bloemfontein going there and via Klerksdorp going back. The roads are easy-breezy, but keep alert, as there are many trucks on that route. There’s a Wimpy in Ventersburg in the Free State, roughly 238 kilometres from Joburg, where you can fill up your tummy and tank. It takes about six-and-a-half hours from Johannesburg to the park. From Cape Town expect to drive roughly 904 kilometres west via the N1, and about 895 kilometres from Durban. There are two entrances to the park: Lilydale Gate and Mosu Gate. Lilydale is far kinder on tyres, as the route is currently being graded. Take it easy if entering from Mosu Gate.

Need to know:
A small shop at reception sells drinks and things such as dish-washing liquid. The earth is rock-hard, with little grass; you will need some sort of cushioning for sleeping on. There is no petrol station on the grounds, so fill up beforehand. For all bookings and enquiries, call 0124289111 or visit sanparks.org/parks/mokala.

What to bring:
Don’t forget the insect repellent. Save some ‘randelas’ and make your own by mixing equal parts water and vinegar in a spray bottle. Eliminate the water for a stronger dose. The ablutions are great, with large showers and separate bathrooms. They are serviced daily and toilet paper is provided. We stayed at unit two (CK6) at Motswedi Camp Site. The units are much the same, but our neighbours next door (unit one) had more shade and privacy created by the trees. The leaves on the trees were sparse, so bring an umbrella. (It gets piping hot in the hotter months.) There’s a two-plate gas stove and fridge in a communal kitchen, but you’ll have to bring cutlery and crockery. There are no power points. Bring your pot or plunger for morning tea or coffee. There are braai facilities; you’ll need a table. We used a Coleman 70 Quart Xtreme 5 Cooler ‒ it was amazing and kept food and beverages ultracool.

Do this:
Go for a game drive. Mosu Lodge offers four game drives each day: in the early morning, during the day, at sunset and at night, and there’s an option to view old rock engravings that are about 2 000 years old. Enjoy a catch-and-release fly-fishing session if you’re staying at Lilydale Rest Camp. Bookings can be made at reception.

Eat here:
Mosu Restaurant is at the back end of the main Mosu Lodge on the vast expanse of grass overlooking the parklands, and there are tortoises walking about. The good old Russian and chips is a winner. Ouma saved up for it ‒ they have one meal at the restaurant each time they visit. Otherwise, the home-made venison pies are a favourite. If that’s not for you, there’s loads to choose from off the à la carte menu. Pre-booking is advised.

Stay here:
Options range from camping to luxury bungalows. Mosu Lodge, the main rest camp, has a pool and 15 units with air-con. From R650 for two. Lilydale Rest Camp has 12 self-catering units that include bungalows and chalets. From R735 for two. Haak en Steek Cottage is more luxe and offers family-friendly units. From R985 for four. Motswedi Camp Site is from R340 for a site for two people. Conservation fees are R34 per day for adults and R19 for under- 11s. Don’t forget your Wild Card! Bookings and more information available on the Mokala National Park website



Gauteng is blessed with clear skies and sunny afternoons. Our Food editor, Nikki Werner tells you how to take advantage of the highveld weather with two new unconventional ways to picnic.

Also read: 11 of Joburg’s coolest places to hang out this summer

A real veld picnic

Three-course meals are served from the veld kitchen: here are slow-roasted lamb shanks with dukkah, potato bake and a salad of brown chickpeas and avo. Photos by Brandon de Kock.

 
Lientjie Wessels is an artist and cook who lives with her husband, Robert Scott Denton, on a farm in De Tweedespruit. Having developed a following with her restaurants Li-bel in Sunnyside and Albizia in Cullinan, this autumn Lientjie began hosting ‘veld picnics’ on her property. Albizia closed in 2013 and those who feel Lientjie’s absence have found the path to her door, or rather her white chair that marks the entrance.

A group of strangers who will leave lunch as friends hoick up skirts and pile into the back of Robert’s bakkie. Everyone holds on to Panama hats and designer sunglasses as the vehicle bumps over rocky terrain to where Lientjie is waiting under the wild syringa trees, next to a table decked out with roses, white linen and a pitcher of bay-leaf lemonade. From her kitchen station a few metres away, she produces warm filo tarts filled with smoked, braaied and marinated mushrooms scattered with thyme ‘ash,’ man-size lamb shanks slow-roasted with wonderbessie (resurrection bush) and wedges of orange, cashew and rosemary cake. The feast concludes with a serving of geselligheid when Lientjie and Robert join the party ‒ and reveal that Albizia on the farm is in the pipeline for 2017.

How to book: The menu (R550 per person) changes with each picnic and for larger groups is served as a packed lunch. Bring your own drinks and cool box. Portion 18, De Tweedespruit. Call for dates, bookings and directions on 0825316141.

Robert’s insider tip: ‘On Sundays we go to our “local” six kilometres along the dirt road, Wa-wiel at Sandwani Lodge, where you can get three T-bones, three portions of pap and sheba (tomato gravy), one salad, a good bottle each of white and red wine, four brandy and Coke and a Don Pedro for under R500 ‒ including the tip!’

You’ll find it on the M8, 15 kilometres outside Cullinan. 0832571516, sandwani.co.za

Picnic (in the) New town

Dim Sum offerings at New Town. Photo by Brandon de Kock.

On a ‘lawn’ laid along a sunny lane at Newtown Junction, toddlers romp on blankets while parents lounge on deck-chairs and older siblings play on wood-and-rope swings. Dressed-to-the-nines youth order trays of dry Martinis in vintage cocktail glasses. The Green Lane, hosted by Work Shop New Town, is the latest project by Trevyn and Julian McGowan (who established Watershed at the V&A Waterfront) aimed at rejuvenating the CBD. This is picnicking Joburg-style. It happens in a pedestrianised section of an inner-city precinct, the grass is AstroTurf, food is ordered from The Potato Shed and Town, and craft beer is on tap.

Also read: 13 unusual places to eat in Joburg

Baskets are designed to be shared and range from the ‘Pigeon Friendly’ Dim Sum Basket for two with spinach-and-cream-cheese and roast-butternut dim sum (12 pieces) from Town (R165) to the Veuve Picnic Basket for four, which contains a garden-box salad, cheese plate, lamb on the spit, twice-baked potato slices, loukoumades pastry and a bottle of Veuve Clicquot from The Potato Shed (R1 740).

How to do it: Saturdays from noon until 5pm. Hire blankets (R50 each) and deckchairs (R20 each), or bring your own.Corner of Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi streets, Newtown, Joburg. 0820951684

 
Drinks on the side?

Also part of Work Shop New Town is Town, a small but sexy bar with Gregor Jenkin tables and bamboo baskets of dim sum prepared by Newtown resident Sbu Msongelwa. (Sbu also has a stall at the Braamfontein Neighbourgoods Market.) Browse the fashion between drinks and order the saketini (R90). Corner of Miriam Makeba and Gwigwi Mrwebi streets, Newton, Joburg. 0712959241, workshopnewtown.com

Looking for more unconventional places to eat in Joburg? You might also enjoy:

• 17 awesome things to do in and around Braamfontein
• 10 unusual things to do in Joburg that won’t cost a fortune

Although I believe in constantly stretching and pushing myself, when asked to embark on a 4-day hike for my assignment at Getaway, I was a bit concerned, considering that I’ve only ever hiked over a tiny hill in Grahamstown. However, when I heard about wine, four-star accommodation each night and delicious food, I was more than ready to hit the Green Mountain Trail.

Here are 12 things I learnt about my body, hiking and the Green Mountain Trail on my first ever 3-day hike.

1. My body can move over mountains

Although I walk sluggishly and roll myself over like a ball of dough being kneaded, I can walk over mountains. Growing up, I was teased a lot for my manner of walking and to be honest, I was never really bothered by this because I was merely grateful my feet would move me from one spot to another. But on this hike, looking back at the Elgin mountain range and knowing that I walked a great deal of it, I was overwhelmed at how much I had underestimated my body all along. My manner of walking determines not the distance it can cover.

Taking in the view of the Elgin Mountain range and trying to locate the spot from where we first started the hike on Day 1.

2. Wine-tasting doesn’t have to be pretentious

Every single day of this hike we were guaranteed a wine tasting session with wine-makers from the wine estates that make up a bulk of the Green Mountain Trail. The last wine-tasting session we had as we concluded the hike at Beaumont Family wines with Sebastion Beaumont, winemaker, and son from the Beaumont family was calm and simple. That experience convinced me that being pretentious and poncey are no requirements for one to enjoy a wine tasting session. I can taste wine like I would be trying out any new flavour of, say tea or even Oros. “This is good, what did you put in here?” type-of-thing. If you are ever around Botriver, pop in this wine estate for a chilled wine tasting.

LEFT: We arrive at the Beaumont family wine estate on the last of the hike after crossing the Bot River to conclude the hike. RIGHT: About to enjoy the platter and start with the wine tasting at the Beaumont family wine estate.

3. People own unbelievable amounts of land

On the second day of the hike, Teagan and I were taken for a drive at the Paul Cluver Wine Estate, a family that has been making a family for decades. I remember looking over mountains and asking Kobus who manages the animals on the farm, “which portion of the area does the family own?”, to which he responded, “Everywhere you look is Paul Cluver.” That was a definite jaw dropper for me. They own over 4000 hectares of land and the N2 cuts through their estate.

4. Nature conservationists are like kids in a candy store on a mountain

Our tour guides for the hike, Evan Kortje and Andreas Groenewald lit up like toddlers in a candy store as we approached the fynbos to begin the hike. Andreas was apologetic for having used a smoke-train back in the day, while Evan stopped to save earthworms from drowning on the trail. If you don’t call that passion, I don’t know what is.

LEFT: Evan Kortje, assistant guide on the trail who shared his knowledge of fynbos and passion for working on this trail. RIGHT: Andreas Groenewald, guide on the trail. He gets so excited you’d swear it was his first multi-day hike.

5. Drinking brown water is not always a bad idea

I am very sceptical about water that comes in a colour. At first, I thought the water looked like urine, but upon closer inspection and a bit of an explanation I was ready to drink from a spring for the very first time. Call me gullible, but Evan explained that the brown colour was the minerals from the roots of the fynbos that managed to make their way into their water. Apparently, the water is also referred to as fynbos tea.

6. There is visitation and then there is humble visitation

We went on this hike during winter which meant that the more visible and popular flowers were out of season, the flowers that we managed to see grew at ankle height. Appreciating the flowers for a hike in winter required us to get on our knees and appreciate the flowering season – as we begin the hike, Evan said this is why they refer to a hike at this time of the year as “humble visitation”.

LEFT: We enjoyed seeing these fantastic daisies along the route among other flowers. RIGHT: Pink erica flowers that we saw a lot on the first day as we began the hike.

7. Going up is so much easier than going down

The force and energy applied going up was much more within my control than slipping down the road and reserving a lot of my energy from not rolling down. The thought of me pushing my weight down and having that collaborate with gravity to take me down was scarier than the full energy it took to go up, with lesser chances of falling. Walking down, you have to grip your foot on the ground and inside your shoes to avoid pressing your toes too hard against the shoe and that bit is uncomfortable.

Walking the Groeneland Nature Reserve with assistant guide Evan Kortje among the variety of fynbos.

8. You can do multiple day hikes without camping in the wilderness

Although I admire my colleagues like Melanie Van Zyl who can camp in the wilderness and hike over 250 kilometres, on this fantastic trail, you are guaranteed 4-star accommodation for each night. To vary the experience, you get to sleep in two different guest houses surrounded by mountains, the Wildekrans Country House and Porcupine Hills Guest House. And there is wine tasting every single day of the hike. This is a good introduction to multi-day hiking and baby steps to doing bolder hikes like the Tankwa Camino.

LEFT: Porcupine Hills Guesthouse where we slept on the first day of the hike. RIGHT: Mountain facing the Porcupine Hills Guesthouse just outside the window.

9. Nostalgia is not for the young at heart

Throughout the hike, I found looking back on the journey a bit … uncomfortable. I think it’s because I fear getting caught up on former victories that I forget what lies ahead. I know some people believe that looking back can function to empower you to move forward. Blame this on the arrogance of youth, I think what lies ahead should be enough reason to propel one forward. My energy through the trail was fired up by what was to follow than the how-far-I’ve-come nostalgia – (the wine tasting, delicious food and comfortable bed might have had a lot to do with this). But to further support this claim, it turns out that in the 7th century, nostalgia was regarded a mental disease. No jokes.

Andreas Groenewald showing me where the hike will end on the first day as I try to keep calm.

10. Nature sings in the most silent of ways

The sounds of nature on the trial were an orchestra that is not short of awesome; being serenaded by frogs, hearing the leaves dancing in the wind in anticipation of rain, the singing birds, flowing water springs, splashing waterfalls over mountains and the mind clearing crescendo silence at mountain tops was total bliss. The entire hike is like a composition of one fine track, especially the silence at the mountain top that still rings in my head in moments of peace once in a while.

The silence up here is total bliss. We stopped to have coffee and lunch at this mountain peak, from here, we enjoyed a view of the vineyards of Elgin, Grabouw, Theewaterskloof Dam, Kleinmond right through to Hermanus.

11. Hiking socks – it’s a thing

In preparation for this hike, my editor, Sonya Schoeman, excited for my first assignment, says to me, “you will definitely need socks,” and I remember thinking I was sorted in that department. Until she said “Falke has the best socks. Other socks don’t have the best ventilation and could make you sweaty, which means blisters, and you don’t want blisters.” To which I replied with a polite nod as one who’s just been schooled. Until that moment, I didn’t know that the advancement of socks went anything further than happy socks. Who knew?!

12. Big macho boots are not an awful idea after all

I knew that I needed a good pair of shoes for my first multi-day hike and was looking for a pair of shoes that resembled my feminine and tender touch. From the latest available waterproof designs, there were none. So for functionality purposes and after much deliberation with our Gear Editor, I ended up getting the latest pair of waterproof hi-tech hiking boots which at first, felt out of my comfort zone. Until I had to aggressively and fearlessly crunching through the woods and walk over the rocks to take pictures and enjoy the view a bit off the track. Suddenly, I could step on anything without thinking twice, which had me thinking; maybe this is why I was teased for walking funny all along!

Read the full story about the Green Mountain Trail (and a gorgeous new hike in the Magoebaskloof) in our November issue, on shelves Monday 20 October 2016!

This rural town has nature, a beautiful river and history, plus it’s an easy weekend escape for Capetonians. Our Pippa De Bruyn seeks out its gems. Photographs by Teagan Cunniffe.

How it works:

TripAdvisor lists accommodation rated by guests, but as much as we love peer reviews, can we trust them? Pippa, who has reviewed accommodation for 18 years, inspected 21 properties – some rated on TripAdvisor, plus she rooted out new ones. These 11 made her list.

The case for Stanford

Stock up on farm-fresh produce: You can prepare entire meals from produce is grown and made within a 10-kilometre radius of the village. Browse for ingredients on Wednesdays and Saturdays at the morning market, pick up fresh bread and delicious farm butter daily from Oumeul Bakery, picnic at the award-winning Klein River Cheese Farmstead and procure your libations from a number of excellent wine estates, or the Birkenhead Brewery. It’s hardly surprising that the area attracts the culinary sort, with restaurants such as the Marianas, Graze Slow Food Café, Springfontein Eats and Manor House, all worth booking well in advance.

There’s history: Founded in 1857, Stanford village is considered the third most preserved village in the Cape, its Cape Victorian and Edwardian streetscapes earning it Heritage Site status. The Stanford Conservation Trust has produced an excellent heritage walk; maps are available from the helpful Stanford Tourism Information in Queen Victoria Street; you can stay in a number of them. stanfordinfo.co.za

It’s fynbos heaven: The village is surrounded by fynbos-clad hills and ancient mountains; the nearby Walker Bay Fynbos Conservancy is home to an extraordinarily high proportion of endemic plants: about 70 percent of its 9000 plant species occur nowhere else.

The river is gentle: The Klein River that runs through Stanford was used by the Hungarian Olympic paddling team to train for six weeks because of its lack of current and ideal setting. You can also take a sunset cruise on The African Queen.

Sea life A 25-minute equidistant drive from Hermanus and Gansbaai, this is the prettiest base from which to check out the marine life off the Overberg coast. Should you be keen to experience the thrill of a close-up encounter with the ocean’s apex predator, Marine Dynamics is the company
to book.

Best all-around lodge

1. Stanford Valley Guest Farm

TripAdvisor No. 5 of 11, Speciality Lodging

 
We almost lost Elsabe and Reinder Nauta to a farm in France and, boy, am I glad we didn’t! The couple purchased this 440-hectare farm neighbouring Raka wine estate instead, and set about transforming the lodgings and homestead, winning Sleeping Out’s Best Establishment in Stanford 2015. Comprising three self-catering cottages, 10 en-suite rooms and three family cottages, each with its own stoep and garden and clustered around a large central werf, this is the most fantastic venue to host a big celebration. Elsabe’s decor is a mixture of quirky vintage with contemporary classics, hand-picked art, comforting, natural textures and an overall pared-down simplicity. The self-catering cottages are well-equipped but be sure to book a few meals at the Manor House. Under the auspices of Madre Malan (the selfsame who established Madre’s Kitchen), it’s sophisticated farm fare ‒ fresh and prepared with flair ‒ augmented with big fireplaces and fabulous views of the Akkedisberg through large windows.

Room tip All the rooms are well dressed and comfortable, and most have a wood-burning stove or fireplace, but I liked the old-fashioned thick walls of Stables Cottage, Pincushion and Erika with their lovely views.
Cost From R850 per unit (sleeps two).
Contact stanfordvalley.co.za
 

Most romantic bolthole

2. Springfontein Sleeps

TripAdvisor No. 4 of 9, B&B/Inn

 
A few minutes out of town, off the gravel track that skirts the Klein River estuary, are three recently renovated cottages spread across Springfontein wine farm. Of them all, Milkwood is much larger and the most private, with a lounge centred on a big open fireplace and a patio with an outdoor fireplace. The tiny historic Fisherman’s Cottage – comprising just a bedroom with a double wrought-iron bed directly opposite the fireplace, a bathroom and a small patio area outside the front door – is also charming, though its location, right next to the farm entrance, feels far less private. Riverside, the most recent addition, is not entirely successful – the top romantic option is Riverside Suite No. 2 (featuring a jolly big fireplace opposite the bed) which is the only one of the three suites that has direct pool access; if others use the pool (as they apparently do) you will have to draw the curtains for privacy. The farm restaurant, Springfield Eats, is rated No. 1 in Stanford on TripAdvisor.

Cost R1000 for Fisherman’s Cottage, R1600 for Milkwood, R1200 for Riverside suites with a pool (all sleep two each); R3800 for the house (sleeps six).
Contact springfontein.co.za

Best historic cottage

3. Flower Cottage

Unlisted

 
There are older historic cottages available to rent (notably the charming Bugler’s Cottage, see page 43) but the location and space of Flower Cottage is hard to beat. At the bottom of a quiet cul-de-sac truncated by the lush banks of the Klein River, opposite the pretty Old Pastorie, Flower Cottage is Number 24 on the Stanford Historical Walk (well worth doing), and according to this was the residence of the village undertaker. The unassuming 1920s cottage retains many of its original features, the best parts of which are a broad front stoep with views that invite early-morning coffee and sundowner time, and an airy country-style kitchen, big enough for a central dining table. There is a spacious lounge area, four bedrooms (three furnished with queen beds; one with two single beds), two bathrooms and a back garden that neighbours Marianas, so you’re literally a few steps from one of the best country dining experiences in the Cape.

Cost From R1100 for two and R200 per person thereafter (maximum eight). Minimum two night stay, five in high season.
Contact stanfordcountrycottages.co.za
 

Best self-catering house

4. Elephant Hills

Unlisted

 
The Wills family holiday home has it all ‒ a river running at the bottom of the garden; stylish furnishings with original art and hand-picked treasures; uncluttered, well-designed spaces that invite gathering and hiving off in equal measure. But the real clincher is the view: beyond the reed-fringed river lies a bucolic tapestry of farmlands, dwarfed by a backdrop of mountains. Waking up to see this painterly landscape washed in the early morning light, you’ll feel more rested and replenished than an entire week spent relaxing in the city. The house is in walking distance to the village shops and restaurants, and a delightful riverside footpath leads directly from the garden. There is no TV or WiFi ‒ hallelujah ‒ it’s a house made for old-fashioned pleasures of conversation, contemplation, reading, playing board games and cards, and rediscovering the joy of vinyl on the record player.

Room tip There are four bedrooms (three double and one twin) sharing two bathrooms. The two front rooms open onto the front stoep and view. There’s also an upstairs loft room with two single beds reached by a steep ladder.
Cost From R4000, minimum two nights and longer in high season (sleeps eight comfortably; maximum 10).
Contact wheretostay.co.za

Best exclusive farmhouse for a group

5. Reiersvlei

Unlisted

 
Generosity of space is what characterises Reiersvlei, a sprawling purpose-built thatched farmhouse that sleeps 10 in five bedrooms, each with French doors opening onto a veranda. The central double-volume lounge-cum-dining room is enormous, the kitchen capacious, and there is a 10-metre pool set in the 180-hectare wild garden. The wide stoep has plenty of comfortable seating as well as a 10-seater dining table ‒ if the weather is fine, this is where you’ll spend your days, drinking in the views of the distant Klein River estuary and imposing mountainscape, the combination of colours and light quite spellbinding. When inclement, there is ample seating around the large indoors hearth which comes supplied with firewood.

Room tip A democratic design, ideal for two families. The two front en-suite rooms, furnished with queen beds, are identical in size, view and fittings; of the three twin-bed bedrooms one is en-suite while two share a central bathroom, entered from either side.
Cost From R1800 for up to four adults; R450 per additional adult and R325 for children under 12.
Contact reiersvlei.co.za

Best riverside location

6. River’s Edge

Unlisted

Photo supplied by River’s Edge.

 
This property has a lawned garden that flows right down to the river and a jetty, and what a pretty garden it is, with flowering creepers, herbaceous English-country borders and a vegetable garden that guests are welcome to plunder for seasonal produce. There’s easy access to the river (boats are launched 100 metres upriver at the public slipway) and even a swimming pool. The house is cosy and intimate, with three fairly small bedrooms downstairs (one with bunk beds) and a lovely upstairs master bedroom, all sharing a compact open-plan living area, with a log-burning fireplace, shuttered sash windows and French doors. The boho-rustic decor invites relaxing, and there is plenty of equipment for youngsters (camp cot, high chair, board games and DStv) as well as for keen cooks (sharp knives, gas stove, Le Creuset cookware and that kitchen garden!). Staying here is like borrowing a much-loved country-village bolthole, which is exactly what it is. Pet-friendly too.

Room tip The upstairs main bedroom has a king-size wrought iron four-poster, walk-in shower, Victorian roll-top bath tub
and river views from the balcony.
Cost From R1500 (sleeps eight). There are mattresses for extra children by special arrangement. Minimum two-night stay.
Contact capevillarental.co.za

Most stylish B&B

7. Haesfarm

Tripadvisor No. 3 of 11, Speciality Lodging

 
Steyn Jacobs and his Dutch architect partner Harry Poortman have fashioned a slick, uber-modern two-bedroom guest pad from the original house on their 40-hectare organic fynbos farm perched atop the rolling hills east of Stanford. The two spacious en-suite bedrooms share a lounge/library/bar, warmed with underfloor heating, a combustion fireplace and a profusion of books and art, plus a covered terrace (with braai) from which to enjoy the sweeping valley views. Steyn and Harry, who live in the adjoining barn-house, are impeccable hosts, providing privacy, wonderful breakfasts (and if you’re lucky, the occasional dinner) and excellent advice on what to see and do in the area. Stanford Valley Farm’s Manor House restaurant is a five-minute drive away. The new steel dam pool and sauna, currently under construction, will be the final decadent touch.

Room tip The two rooms are identical – clean lines and no-expense-spared fittings and features but only one has the valley view.
Cost From R1500 double B&B.
Contact haesfarm.com

Best riverside bargain

8. The Ark

Unlisted

 
There are architecturally and historically more interesting choices (for example Bugler’s, Flower and Limoncello cottages, see Also Worth A Look) but The Ark’s location, with only a dirt track separating it from the river, is a winner. There’s also the decadence of space ‒ the covered veranda overlooks an enormous lawned garden with plenty of mature trees, a pit braai and a play area equipped with swings and a climbing area for children. The house is simply and tastefully furnished in country style, and comprises an open-plan downstairs lounge/dining area with a large kitchen, open fireplace, a formal dining area, a small breakfast nook and a shower-bathroom. Upstairs the two light-filled bedrooms (furnished with king and queen beds) share a wood-panelled bathroom (tub only). The third bedroom (furnished with an oak double bed) has a separate outside entrance.

COST From R1100 for two and R200 per person thereafter.
(max six). Minimum two-night stay.
CONTACT stanfordcountrycottages.co.za

Also worth a look

A Little Farmhouse is arguably Stanford’s best bargain, this gem ‒ located a few minutes outside of the village ‒ has thick walls and rough adobe plastering that makes it feel like an authentic century-old farmhouse, but the proportions and bathrooms are modern and comfortable. It’s well-equipped and private ‒ set in a forest glade on a 10-hectare property ‒ and only R1 200 (sleeps six). overberggems.co.za

Bugler’s Cottage is the oldest, most authentic historic cottage you can rent in Stanford. Bugler’s was built in the 1860s for one of the labourers on Sir Robert Stanford’s farm. The one-bedroom cottage has been modernised and the thatch exposed but still has the proportions authentic to the period, and a cutesy charm that is irresistible. From R750 (sleeps two or a family of three). stanford-accommodation.co.za

Casa Limoncello was a shop in the 1920s that has been artfully transformed into a very stylish, modern four-bedroom home by a resident Stanford family. Decor is glossy-magazine standard, with a fantastic cook’s kitchen (and an award-winning kitchen garden). The two front rooms with an entrance off the street can be rented separately (R650 each, sleeps two), or rent the whole house from R2400 (sleeps eight).

Mosaic Lagoon Lodge is a luxurious, exclusive stone-and-glass lodge, with five privately located safari-style suites set within the milkwoods and offering stunning views across the Klein River estuary, is the ticket if you’re looking for a special-occasion splurge. At R5 600 for two it’s not cheap but the rate includes all meals, drinks and a fabulous range of beach and nature activities.

In the Stanford Hotel, the top choice is Luca’s Lodge, a two-bedroom family suite sharing a bathroom overlooking the back garden (from R1 950, sleeps four) but the real find is Bambi Cottage, a two-bedroom self-catering cottage with its own garden located on the hotel grounds (R2 200 for four, minimum two- night stay); Sixpence is the pet-friendly option (from R1250, sleeps two).

White Water Farm is slowly being transformed into a destination location by its energetic young owners. It has 10 recently renovated cottages, suites and rooms, a large pool and a country restaurant that opens at the weekends for lunch. From R850 for two B&B.

This story first appeared in the July 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our July issue is packed full of great winter holiday ideas. On shelves from 20 June.

Soup isn’t just for winter! This bright soup is full of spring flavours, and easy to make from your freezer or pantry in only half an hour.

 
It also pairs beautifully with the Earthbound Organic Sauvignon Blanc, which (according to our tasters) is a fresh and juicy, light-bodied wine with notes of spanspek and melon on the nose and palate. If you’d like find out more about our country’s tastiest organic and earth-friendly wines, you’ll love the Nedbank Green Wine Guide. It’s a pocket-sized guide showcasing 11 award-winning wine farms, as well as three routes to take you there, and it comes free with our November issue!

Green pea & lavender soup

recipe by Shannon Smuts of Pure Good Food

Ingredients

• 1 cup fresh cream
• 5-6 lavender stalks
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• 1 medium leek, root trimmed, thinly sliced
• 5 mls salt
• freshly ground black pepper
• 50g vegetable stock mixed with 2½ cups water
• 3 cups fresh peas, shelled (or thawed frozen peas)
• 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice, plus more if needed
• 5-6 mint leaves

Cooking method

1. Simmer the cream and lavender in a saucepan for 10 minutes, on the lowest heat. Don’t let the cream boil! Remove from the stove and allow to cool.
2. Meanwhile, melt the butter in another saucepan over medium heat until simmering.
3. Add the leek, ½ teaspoon salt and a pinch of pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened.
4. Add the stock, 1½ teaspoons salt and a pinch of pepper and bring to the boil. Add the peas and bring to the boil again.
5. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer until the peas are tender, about 5 minutes.
6. Remove the pan from the heat, add the mint and stir to combine.
7. Leave to stand, uncovered, for about 10 minutes to allow the flavours to meld.
8. Using a blender, purée the soup in batches until smooth. Transfer to a clean saucepan to warm up on a low heat, and stir in the lemon juice. Taste and season with more salt, pepper and lemon juice as needed. Spoon into bowls.
9. Remove the lavender stalks from the cream and drizzle 2 tablespoons of cream onto the soup before serving.