Imagine a cycle tour that takes you from beach to bluff to ford to forest in five days, and no two routes are ever the same…There is one in SA, and you can do it.

I’d last crossed the Great Kei River nearly 20 years ago. It was an ill-fated adventure: me and a best mate and a girl we’d just met who shared our birthday, same day, same year. Gemini triplets and a hut on the Wild Coast. Good times were written in the star… It was a catastrophe. No amount of cosmic alignment could help us get along, and after an awkward goodbye we never saw her again. The Wild Coast was not to blame, but I’d never returned.

Cresting the bluff we get our first sight of Hole in the Wall. Nobody wants this journey to end so we take our time, enjoying the view, before the final freewheel down.

Now here I was, in a borrowed outfit and on this strange-looking bike, about to cross the Kei again – about to cycle five days to Hole in the Wall and never mind that I’d not ridden in nearly a decade. That time I’d broken a wrist. What was I getting myself into?

And it’s not all gentle cruising on flat beaches either. Be prepared for a bit of hoisting and carrying too.

Meeting my five riding companions gave me some comfort, but then again it also didn’t. Spreading out on the beach in front of me, still yawning with jet lag after their long flight from Colorado, were Adrian, Kathleen, Ron and Earlene – two retired American couples aged between 65 and 72. Initially I’d fancied my chances of keeping up, but decked out in their well-used gear they looked keen and fit. I wasn’t sure my 38-year-old legs would survive.

By now far ahead was tour leader Rohan Surridge. He grew up on this coast and has been guiding cycle tours here and around SA for almost a decade. Add nine Cape Epics as rider or support, plus a few Race Across South Africa events (off-road from Pietermaritzburg to Wellington) and you have a formidable cyclist, but one who has grown tired of racing – he’d assured me – and prefers the variation and isolation of his two favourite destinations – Lesotho and the Wild Coast, of which the latter is particularly suited to Rohan’s latest passion: fatbiking. Developed in Alaska, fatbikes have unusually wide tyres to stop them sinking into snow, a feature which makes them ideal for beach cycling. But they still need to be pedalled. Or, with my lack of saddle time, quite probably pushed.

Beautiful single track starts the day 4 as we leave the beach for a bit and weave our way through the indigenous forest.

‘It’s not a bike ride, it’s an adventure,’ Rohan assured me as we drove down from Durban the day before. I told him I’d ridden a bicycle once in the last 10 years. Was that concern in his eyes?
‘Don’t worry,’ he’d said, ‘there hasn’t been a hill yet that I couldn’t walk up.’ And that was that.

Twenty-four hours later I was walking up a hill. But it didn’t matter – everyone else was too. We stopped at the top for a rest and to admire the view. Before us, under a crisp winter sky, lay miles and miles of empty beach, wide and sparkling with the receding spring tide. A distant glint marked a river and, beyond that, endless grassy headlands disappeared into the blue.

…and river crossings. Getting the tides right is crucial to cycling the Wild Coast. Get it wrong and rivers like this require more than just wading.

The Kei now lay behind us – crossed just after dawn by motorised pontoon. There’d be no more such simple crossings. That river was only one of many that would need to be waded, swum or paddled across in local canoes. Timing is everything when cycling the Wild Coast. Summer rains swell the streams and make fording impossible, and even in winter it’s crucial to hit the larger rivers and estuaries at low tide so that waist-deep water is the most you have to negotiate.

Rohan glanced away from the view and down at his GPS. While we definitely weren’t racing, he had to manage those crossings and no hilltop rest ever lasted long. Back on our bikes we bounced our way down the cattle-furrowed single track, my sea-damp brakes screeching as I chickened out of a full-tilt descent.

Back at the coast we stop for lunch as a pod of dolphins – about 50-strong – cruise through the waves in front of us.

Six hours and 30 kilometres later we pulled into Wavecrest hotel, our first overnight stop on the western bank of the Nxaxo River. Five kilometres an hour may not seem very fast. It’s not. But, Rohan aside, we were tired. We’d waded five rivers (one chest-deep), climbed a total of 680 metres and carried our bikes up one particularly steep cliff.

Waiting for us, the team in the support vehicle doled out icy drinks and snacks, took the bikes off for a clean and sent us to our rooms to shower. Then beers, a huge lunch and a sunset boat cruise. It had been a long day but I’d not embarrassed myself. Quietly confident about the riding to come, I drifted off into a deep, deep sleep.

James, the local ferryman, rows us across the Qora River, asking only R12 a trip.

But I’d forgotten what a saddle can do to an untrained backside. Golden light blazed over the Nxaxo as we canoed the bikes across at dawn. It wasn’t the only thing inflamed. I set out tenderly across the beach, standing up a little over the seat, while chatting with the Americans about cycling and Colorado and all the beautiful places they’d pedalled over the years. It was clear that to them this trip was up there among the very best, and it made me feel proud. Pristine beach followed pristine beach – not so much as a discarded bottle cap littered the shore. A woman collecting red bait showed us her haul, laughed, and posed for photos. By the time we rolled into Mazeppa Bay for lunch, one cold beer became two and I found my behind didn’t hurt quite so much anymore.

Short sections of the Dwesa trail are overgrown and forcing us to bash our way through tall grass and reeds.

And every day it got better. Hard-packed beaches gave way to more challenging single track and we raced through the indigenous forest of Dwesa Nature Reserve. Daily cycling builds fitness fast, and although I was still pushing the bike up the steeper hills there was some satisfaction in conquering a few too. By day four we were spending more time off the beach, following narrow trails along bright green cliffs.

‘Isolation and variation,’ Rohan had said, and now I understood what he meant. From beach to bluff to ford to forest – a bike allows you to see so much along this inaccessible coast. Our overnight hotels were well-known establishments with good food and comfy beds, but to reach them by car means bumpy inland detours along hours of gravel road. Often the coastline between can’t be reached by vehicle at all – the domain of local pony and foot traffic, cows, a few hikers and us.

LEFT: A local mama displays her catch of shellfish and red bait. Foraging is illegal, but subsistence continues off the rock pools. RIGHT: Very welcome beers at Mazeppa Bay Hotel.

‘Every time we ride it’s a little different,’ said Rohan, as we sat high on the fifth day’s final hill watching a pod of dolphins, 50-strong, slip east past Hole in the Wall. ‘The beaches change, streams swell or vanish completely, but it’s always a privilege to be here.’

It really had been a privilege. It’s hard to do justice to what an incredibly beautiful place the Wild Coast is. And to experience it on a fully supported cycle tour, which included an endless supply of snacks along the way, packed lunches, roast dinners and cold beers … it was pure luxury.

After over 30 crossings it feels strange wading the Mpako River knowing that there is no next river to come – just a final ride past Hole the Wall to complete an incredible adventure.

Back on our bikes we free-wheeled down to the beach for the last time. My legs were tired and my bum still a little sore, but my trip had not been a disaster. All the toiling uphill forgotten, I was already scheming on how to get back here again with a group of friends.

There’s no road access for long stretches of this coastline.

Plan your trip

Getting there

FlySafair flies from Joburg to East London for about R1300 return and from Cape Town for about R2100 return. travelstart.co.za.
Transfers from the airport to Morgan Bay and back are included in the tour price.

Book on tours

The Wild Coast Amble is a 140km, five-day cycle tour from Morgan Bay to Hole in the Wall with a day each end for transfers. Four ambles are scheduled for 2017: 22 – 28 May, 21 – 27 June, 6 – 12 July and 18 – 24 August, with overnight stops at Mitford Hotel (mitfordhotel.co.za), Wavecrest (wavecrest.co.za), Kob Inn (kobinn.co.za), The Haven Hotel (havenhotel.co.za), Bulungula Lodge (bulungula.com) and White Clay Resort (whiteclayresort.co.za).

Tours cost

R14000 per rider, including all meals, accommodation, and return transfers. Alcoholic beverages and bike hire are not included. You can take your own fat bike or mountain bike, but beware of damage from sand and salt water. Full suspension is not recommended. Fatbike hire is R2500 per rider per tour. detourtrails.co.za

Custom tours

Alternatively, get a group together and, with Rohan’s input, design your own ride anywhere between Morgan Bay and Port Edward. Increase the overall distance or schedule rest days. Each overnight stop has a range of activities, from canoeing to spa treatments, and the beaches, birding and fishing are excellent all along the coast. There’s no upper limit to group size and kids as young as 10 have taken part. Custom tours can be done from late April to early September. Start dates are tide dependant, and due to tide patterns can be a maximum of eight days only. detourtrails.co.za

Need to know

While not an extreme activity, moderate fitness is required to ride the Wild Coast. Bring your own cycling gear and helmet and be prepared to get wet – there are up to 30 rivers to wade or swim. Rubber-soled riding shoes are essential for slippery rocks. You’ll get a water bottle and daily riding snacks: apples, sweets and peanuts (no sports drinks or energy bars). Bring a backpack with a 2L hydration bladder for extra water, plus sunscreen and a buff. Detour Trails carries basic tools and spares for its fatbikes, but recommends you bring your own as well, especially if you’re taking your own bike. Emergency medical evacuation insurance is mandatory for all riders.

Read more from this story in the January 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

Get this issue →

Our January issue features a bucket list of 45 experiences to have at least once in South Africa, a new way to experience the Wild Coast, and a beautiful beach holiday in Sri Lanka.

I recently decided to revive my relationship with water and took swimming lessons.

Part of it was that I hated feeling immobilised when I went for a went boat-ride a few weeks ago. Another significant reason behind my renewed motivation was a decision to task myself with challenging the stereotype that black people can’t swim, I had grand plans of taking over water. So although it’s a bit too late now to get a spot at the Olympics, I’ve decided to instead immerse myself in some of the finest swimming spots in Cape Town. Here are great swimming spots I’ve been to and others that I plan on visiting before winter officially hits.

Out for a swim at Long Beach in Simons Town. Photo by Takadzo Makhane.

A few years ago I had a terrible swimming instructor who used to yell from outside the pool, while filing her nails, “relax your body and just float! Okay no! Stop! Get back to the wall and just paddle your feet instead! Keep doing that and stay there!”. She would do this to a group of 8 and we’d all get confused about who she was referring to and nervously attempted to execute her instructions. It was a mess. She then came up with an idea that some people were more advanced than others and had to ‘move on to other stages’. Meanwhile, some of us were left to merely paddle our feet by the wall. She kept me paddling by the wall for 4 lessons before I would end quit taking lessons.

Eight years later, I’ve just arrived in Claremont to meet up with Brent Abrahams from Simply Swimming after I had an epiphany that I wasn’t a quitter. I was immediately delighted that there weren’t 7 other people joining in for the lesson. Judging from his attire I was also happy that he was also going to get inside the pool to demonstrate and not yell instructions from outside the pool.
‘Mr Welcome, welcome! You are right on time!’ he says with great enthusiasm.
Instead of being kept by the wall to merely paddle my feet (something both Brent and I still agree I need to practice more), he was patient with me, affirmed my progress, encouraged me to relax and be confident in my abilities to move around water.

‘You are not scared of water Mr Welcome! You are very relaxed which is great! Make sure to paddle your feet more and take it slow with your arm strokes. You have very long arms Mr Welcome. That’s an advantage. Make the most of it by being relaxed and let your feet do most of the work’.
I jump inside the pool and paddle my feet furiously, come out on the other end and look at him, he beams, ‘that’s great Mr Welcome! You are a fast learner ey, Mr Welcome?!’.

6 lessons later, I was ready to start my journey towards scooping up gold medals at the Olympics. Because it’s a bit too late to show off at the Olympics, I’ll settle with practising my newly acquired skill in some of the finest pools around Cape Town.

If like me, you need to go back to the basics to learn from scratch or improve your current skill, sign up with Simply Swimming with R100 for registration and R107 per lesson. Depending on your current ability and your ease with water, you’ll need about six lessons. For novice swimmers like me, and the pros who aren’t able to show off at the Olympics, here are top 10 of the best swimming spots in Cape Town:

1. Simon’s Town, Long beach

Long beach is an ideal spot for swimming because the surrounding ports mean that the waves are minimal making the water calm. Here you’ll find all sorts of swimmers, both beginners and show-offs because this beach really is ideal for swimmers. It was here where I saw once saw a lady teaching her teenage son how to float here. The water here unbelievably calm. Make it your goal to swim here as often as you possibly can before winter comes and you can take the train which will drop you off right by the beach.

2. Pepper Hotel and Spa rooftop pool

The outdoor infinity pool on the root top at the Pepper Hotel and Spa is moderately sized. You can enjoy a dip in the pool while enjoying panoramic views of the city and mountains while soaking in the sun. Located on the 8th floor of the hotel the pool is the perfect to indulge in some light lunches served on the after a quick or serious dip.
Contact: 0218128888, pepperclub.co.za/swimming-pool
Times: 24 hours a day.

3. The Vue sky-bar lounge

This sleek and sophisticated bar in the heart of Cape Town offers a pool with some serious views. I’d recommend taking a floaty with you so you can float on this pool and take in the superb view of Cape Town while sipping on a cocktail. Guaranteed to make you feel like a million bucks!
Contact: 021 418 3065, the-vue.com
Times: Monday to Sunday from 7am to 10pm

4. Trafalgar Swimming Pool

This is an Olympic sized pool where you can show off your swimming ability and fitness by covering laps. If you’re scared of being judged go during the day when it’s not full. If you want to show off, consider going on weekends where people get to enjoy a picnic on the grass and watch the likes of you – or should I say, us. This pool is used by an aquatic club on Thursdays between 6pm to 8pm and Saturdays from 8am to 10am, so access will be limited during these times. This pool is conveniently situated in the heart of Woodstock.
Contact: 0214615060, westerncape.gov.za/facility/trafalgar-park-swimming-pool-woodstock
Times: Open daily from 10am to 5pm.
Cost: Adults R3.00 and R1.00 for children.

5. Sea Point Pavilion

Apparently, the preferred style swimming in Sea Point is the relaxed dog paddle. This pool is such a social space because, well… people are putting this fantastic pool to use. Come out with friends for a day of enjoying the sun and oceanic views without getting caught up in any sand. Sea Point is on constant holiday mode, this pool is ideal for a warm day out for a wonderful experience of Cape Town. There are two other smaller pools available, as well as a shallow pool for children to play in.
Contact: 0214343341, westerncape.gov.za/facility/sea-point-pavillion-swimming-pool
Times: Open from 7am to 7pm during summer and 9am to 5pm during winter.
Cost: R21.00 entrance for adults and R10.50 for children.

6. Newlands swimming pool

The Newlands Swimming pool is an Olympic-sized public pool used by athletes, local swimmers and visitors alike. This pool offers fantastic views of the mountain and a grass area for a pleasant and calming scene where you can bring a friend to watch you practice.
Contact: 0216744197, westerncape.gov.za/facility/newlands-swimming-pool 
Times: Open daily from 10am to 5pm.
Cost: R15.00 for adults and R7.00 for children.

7. Batstone Pool

This chic rooftop pool is small which makes it perfect for a quick dip on a hot day before enjoying drinks at this already trendy spot. This deck rooftop and pool bar makes great use of their rooftop for people who want to expand their varied experience of drinks with a dip in the pool.
Contact: 0766430287, bookings@batstonepool.com
Times: Open from 11 am until sunset every Wednesday to Sunday.
Cost: R150 minimum spend if you want to use their pool.

8. Kalk Bay Tidal Pool

A tidal pool is a pool right by the coast filled by sea-water everytime the tide turns high. With several inviting tidal pools along the Muizenberg and Simons Town coast that you can spot by eye on the train ride, the Kalk Bay one is worth a visit. Located on the Indian Ocean, the water is warmer and makes for a perfect swim without the disturbance of the waves.

9. Boulders Beach, Simons Town

Located on the Indian Ocean, Boulders Beach is popularly known to be home to the African penguin and its warm waters also make ideal for swimming. With the surrounding mountains, the wind and waves are also minimal making the water calm and easy to approach for the novice or nervous swimmers. Go for a dip on this popular beach and get the opportunity to see some penguins while you’re at it.
Contact: 0217862329, sanparks.org/parks/table_mountain/tourism/attractions.php
Cost: Conservation fee of R65.

10. Long baths

Located on Long street, this pool is perfect for the swimmers who are serious about realising their Olympic goals. The water temperature in this Olympic sized pool is controlled to suit both warm and cold days. This is where you go if you want to swim during winter so that you can show off some serious skills and fitness in summer.
Cost: R21 per session and R240 per month for adults, R10.50 per session and R105.50 per month, free for pensioners.
Contact: 0214220100, westerncape.gov.za/facility/long-street-baths

Hope spots are the ultimate call for citizens to engage with the ocean, to care for it, to make out own. South Africa has six spots. We visited some of them. Photographs by Teagan Cunniffe.

Cape Recife Lighthouse from the beach is part of the Algoa Bay Hope Spot. The Samrec Penguin Rescue Station is close by. Image by Teagan Cunniffe

When oceanographer Dr Sylvia Earle sleeps, I like to imagine she dreams in pale blues and greens, teals, turquoises, cobalts, indigos, sapphire, silvers, and royal and midnight blues so rich they’re almost black. She’s been diving since the age of 16. She’s now 81. Every year, even now, Dr Earle travels up to 480000 kilometres to dive in research sites around the world. She has spent more than 7000 hours underwater. She was dubbed ‘Her Deepness’ by The New Yorker.

Her Deepness says she is often asked this question: Where’s the best place to go diving?‘Almost anywhere,’ she replies, pausing. ‘Fifty years ago.’ She would know, but there’s evidence to support her view; coral reefs are dying, we’ve eaten 90 percent of the big sea fish*, plastic is contaminating our oceans, and and and… Yet, there is still hope, says Dr Earle. And so, in 2009, she launched the Hope Spot concept.

False Bay Hope Spot has plenty of pools to explore sea life; Hope Spots are not only about the sea life but the entire coastal ecosystem. Images by Teagan Cunniffe

In South Africa, our seas are off-the-charts beautiful. We have 24 Marine Protected Areas (MPAs), and in 2014 six Hope Spots were declared. These are special conservation areas critical to the ocean’s health, often close to MPAs but not necessarily part of them. According to the Sustainable Seas Trust (SST), less than three percent of the sea is protected compared to the land, where 12 percent is safeguarded in the form of national parks or heritage sites. Hope Spots are another driver in the fight to create that equivalent in the ocean. They are still, to some degree, an ephemeral concept, existing primarily by name, their borders demarcated, but there’s not much beyond this to protect them. However, in South Africa, to our great credit in my opinion, after two years they’re being shaped into something more concrete, more robust, more suited to our unique situation.

South Africa’s go-to Hope Spot man is Dr Tony Ribbink, resident of Kenton-on-Sea and head of SST, which coordinates the Hope Spot project here. Our six spots are Algoa Bay, Plettenberg Bay, Aliwal Shoal on the KZN coast, the Cape Whale Coast, False Bay and Knysna. Around the world, Hope Spots are nominated by citizens; they’re vetted and approved by Mission Blue, the organisation set up by Dr Earle. But in SA, the process was more rigorous, involving committees and strict criteria.

I meet an octopus – this should only ever be done with qualified people who know how not to harm sea life (or even yourself). Image by Teagan Cunniffe

What sets our Hope Spots apart is that, unlike those in other countries, SA’s are always close to human settlements. The reason for this is that people are fundamental to the ocean’s survival, says Dr Ribbink, and so we should be encouraged to engage with these beautiful marine areas, not warned off them. ‘The real issue is that people are encouraged to play a positive role. Hope Spots provide that opportunity in the hope that they’ll ignite support through personal involvement,’ he explains. In South Africa, the issues are also more complex because there are systemic societal issues – economic and social justice, for instance – that need to be addressed if we want to foster conservation ethics.

‘If you’re unemployed and have no job, then you have no self-esteem and you don’t care what’s around you,’ says Dr Ribbink. The long-term goal is that, by making Hope Spots a recognised brand and getting operators and tourism bodies to come on board, they can boost ‘blue’ tourism. The aim is now to employ someone to put that into action. Beautiful areas attract tourists, who will be able to choose accommodation, service providers and tours that are Hope Spot registered. These will provide much-needed revenue, while inviting locals to engage in their coastlines and shores more intimately may make them, to put it simply, fall in love and want to protect these precious resources. The key, though, is connection with the ocean.

Robberg Nature Reserve, which is part of the Plett Hope Spot, is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places to explore, and picnic. Image by Teagan Cunniffe

The first time I met an octopus was in a Hope Spot. He/she was introduced to me by Hope Spot ambassador Craig Foster, a well-known documentary maker who has been swimming in the False Bay Hope Spot every day for three years. An octopus is an uncanny creature. It doesn’t live for very long, and is recognised by biologists as a sentient being. It settled firmly but softly onto my leg and took a good long look at me with goatlike eyes. It was probably trying to figure out how to unscrew my head – they’re very good at undoing bottle tops – but its focus impressed me nonetheless. Seeing a creature in its environment, its home, and learning about it, is a powerful experience, one that settles in deep. Of course, those who’ve been diving knew this long ago, but not all of us dive. However, it’s easy to engage with sea life along our shores. Anyone can do it. And this is the point of Hope Spots.

What’s amazing about Algoa Bay, remarks Dr Ribbink, is that according to tour operators, more people outside of Port Elizabeth know about the incredible natural riches the area has to offer than locals do. In fact, it’s so rich that Nelson Mandela University (NMU) is becoming a hub for maritime research of all kinds.In Plettenberg Bay we visited Robberg Nature Reserve, just one of the many options to explore in this Hope Spot. It was drizzling when we started our hike, and the plants sparkled like crystals. We stopped above the seal colony and watched them play out, on the rocks, some toppling into the green water, while mousebirds flitted in the vegetation below.

‘We have an amazing life here,’ agrees Dr Gwen Penry, a marine mammal scientist currently doing post-doctoral research at NMU. She heads up the committee for the Plett Hope Spot committee for the Plett Hope Spot. At this stage, she says, in each spot conservationists make of it what they can. In Plettenberg Bay, they work on making sure the marine environment is kept in the public eye through a public lecture series, where researchers share their findings. ‘The whole concept of Hope Spots is that it’s self-generated, driven by the individual,’ she says. ‘It should be coming from within the community that we should be protecting this valuable resource, but we need to let people know why it’s important.’

Recently, a coastal corridor was declared from Robberg to Kranshoek, which means that caracal and leopard – yes, leopard – are able to move along the coast through these areas. As Dr Penry works through a list of life in this stretch of land and sea she paints a picture of incredible environmental richness: caracal, leopard, 7000 Cape cormorants, the largest kelp gull breeding colony in the country, African penguins, southern right whales, humpback and Bryde’s whales, bottlenosed and humpback and common dolphins, and then birds too many to name. As a visitor, I have seen only a fraction of what she’s described. In Algoa Bay it was the same, as in the False Bay Hope Spot. There is so much wilderness for us to tap into.

Cape Recife Lighthouse; There is so much to discover right on the shore, in rock pools. It’s a great place for kids to learn – just remember to be gentle and do no harm. Images by Teagan Cunniffe

Back home, I buy a young friend a gift of a snorkel and mask for his birthday, and make a date with him to go to the False Bay Hope Spot. I hope that there he might see colourful sea anemones, perhaps even an octopus. I hope we’ll have fun and, like me, he’ll fall in love with, as Dr Earle calls it, the big blue heart of our planet, and that he’ll be moved to care for it. Because that’s the point of this Hope Spot movement, after all: what happens to our ocean is up to us.

What are SA Hope Spots?

Hope Spots are marine areas of ecological and biodiversity significance, but in South Africa, they are also unique in that:
• they are the only community-based Hope Spots;
• they are where people live, and aim to involve those people in conservation;
• they aim to ignite human support through involvement and education;
• they aim to share information with people so that everyone can appreciate the enormous value of the seas on their front doorstep and to then promote pride.
To see where Hope Spots are located around the world, go to mission-blue.org

Getting there

Drive from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth along the N2, which will take you past three Hope Spots: the Cape Whale Coast, Knysna and Plett. To Algoa Bay (PE), it’s around 750km, so a route including all four Hope Spots makes for a wonderful road trip. I would suggest two nights in each place, allowing you one full day to explore each coastal area. Alternately, fly to Port Elizabeth and drive to Plett and Knysna. From Cape Town, flights start at around R1500, from Joburg around R1600.

Need to know

Some Hope Spots are more active than others: Plett, Algoa Bay and Cape Whale Coast are probably the strongest. Many places have lots of options to interact with the sea. Otherwise, it’s simply a case of getting your hands, um, wet. In each place, start here: go down to the beach, take your mask and snorkel, and binocs, and see what comes your way. Explore. But remember, first do no harm – don’t pick things off the rocks or out of the sea.

Do this beforehand

Start by watching Mission Blue, the documentary of Dr Sylvia Earle’s quest to safeguard the sea. It’s great for the whole family. On Netflix.

Do this in Algoa Hope Spot

Visit the Samrec Penguin Station. The SA Marine Rehabilitation and Education Centre is great for kids especially. You can see cool things such as whale baleen, and penguins and sea birds. Feeding time is at 2.45pm every day. Entry R30 adults, R20 children. samrec.org.za

Explore Algoa Bay in a superduck. The Blue Pearl is owned by Morven Maclean, Algoa Bay HS member and Noordhoek Skiboat Club chairman. It’s the go-to research vessel but is also for hire to explore the bay and the wild side, the rougher Noordhoek seas. It’s launched from the boat club. From R250 per person. 0834093582

Take a catamaran trip. Offered by Stampede Cruises, owner Rod Lochhead grew up sailing in the bay. We went to St Croix, a rocky outcrop full of African penguins and other birdlife, and also saw dolphins. Fishing is not allowed (it’s a no-take zone). From R250 per person; R750 per person to St Croix. stampedecruises.co.za

Take an eco-horseride. Cantering through the twisting, bush-wrapped paths leading towards the beach is a game of balance and trust in your horse. Part of the trail takes you along the coast. Riding in a MPA is a privilege, and the local Riders Association works hard to control riding access and minimise environmental impact. Book through Heavenly Stables for all levels. R450 per person for two and a half hours. heavenlystables.co.za

Go whale watching. Raggy Charters is the only licensed boat based permit holder for this in PE. Tours start from R1400 per person. raggycharters.co.za

Beaches to explore

Sardinia Bay has kilometres of unspoilt coastline and is also a great spot for picnicking. It’s a marine reserve, so no fishing, but you’re allowed to snorkel.

Seaview is a rocky shore but has plenty of rock pools to explore, especially at low tide. There are also often dolphins there.

Cape Recife Beach is where you’ll find the lighthouse on a stark and beautiful beach. It’s good for walking with plenty of birdlife; it’s also close to the Samrec Penguin Station.

For more information, follow Algoa Bay Hope Spot on Facebook and visit nmbt.co.za.

Do this in Plett Hope Spot

Attend a marine lecture. This happens about once a month, and is usually researchers sharing their findings. R20 per person. Details on Facebook.

Visit Robberg Nature Reserve. There are a number of hikes you can do here. One takes you past a seal colony and another of Cape cormorants. It’s a gorgeous reserve, wonderful for bird and whale and dolphin watching in season. R80 per person. capenature.co.za

Swim with seals and pelagic sharks. Offshore Adventures is a recommended operation for snorkelling with these playful creatures – suitable for kids – and adults can also brave the sardine migration or swim with sharks. From R350 per person to view, R600 per person to swim. offshoreadventures.co.za

Go whale watching. Ocean Blue Adventures is one of two operations permitted to do the above in the bay. From R440 per person. oceanadventures.co.za

Ocean Safaris is another option for marine tours. From R450 per person; R250 per person 12 and under. oceansafaris.co.za

Do an eco-tour by kayak. Dolphin Adventures explores sea life along the coastline from their stable sea-level craft. From R300 per person for about two hours. dolphinadventures.co.za

Get your kids into this nature programme. Nature’s Valley Trust runs several educational programmes during the year that kids can participate in, activities start at R20. Events are posted on Facebook. naturesvalleytrust.co.za

Beaches to explore

Lookout Beach is a walk from the car park at Lemongrass restaurant to the Keurbooms River mouth and around the edge of the lagoon. Breeding seabirds nest here, keep dogs on leads.

Poortjies beach is on the edges of the Keurbooms estuary. Watch hermit crabs scuttle away from you, or hire a SUP board and explore further.

Arch Rock is a ‘path less travelled’ and there are beautiful rock pools and caves to explore. Park at Enrico’s restaurant in Keurbooms village and walk east.

For more information, follow Plett Hope Spot on Facebook and visit plett-tourism.co.za.

Do this in Cape Whale Coast Hope Spot

Go diving. There are two operators to use: Neptune’s Divers, which has a catamaran and young vibey crew. Costs start at R400 per person (for an eco-tour); dives from R1100 for two tank dives. neptunesdivers.co.za

Scuba Africa specialises in diving and training. Costs from R400 per person for a dive, and R400 per person for gear rental. scubaafrica.com

Watch whales. Southern Right Charters starts operating in June. From R800 per adult, and R380 for childrens. southernrightcharters.co.za

Beaches to explore

Walker Bay is part of a nature reserve and stretches from Klein River to Gansbaai. It’s a blue flag beach and the sea is wonderfully clear there, and in season there are lifeguards (and a bar). There are also sheltered nooks in which you can safely snorkel, and coastal caves to explore. We saw plenty of birdlife, too. capenature.co.za

The Old Harbour in the centre of Hermanus has a small beach that goes down to a stunning snorkelling area. There’s great biodiversity here.

For more information, follow Cape Whale Coast Hope Spot on Facebook (there’s a lot to do in this area, and the group is pretty good at responding to queries) and visit hermanustourism.info.

Stay here

In Algoa Bay

The Red Shed, on the outskirts of Port Elizabeth, is on a family farm bordered on one side by coastline, much of which has been left untouched. The building is like a glass box, large and roomy and opens wide onto a lush, green garden filled with birdlife; there’s also a tennis court. It lends itself to large, intimate gatherings. Although be aware it’s all open-plan sleeping. There are two separate bathrooms. From R900 (sleeps 10). airbnb.com/rooms/9120180

In Plettenberg Bay

Alkantmooi is set high atop a hill on a private nature reserve, which means it’s surrounded by indigenous forest full of life (apparently leopard have been recorded in the forest). There are seven units in total, four of them new, all with fully kitted kitchens. It’s an upmarket offering, with quality linen and spacious showers (toilet sensibly separate). The older Keursee units face a spectacular view over Plettenberg Bay’s sea, while Keurboom faces the forest. It’s a real plus to be outside the town; from here you’re a short drive to the Keurbooms river and many lovely beaches. Costs from R1500 per unit. alkantmooi.co.za

Read more from this story in the February 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our February issue features a wild new way to traverse the Baviaanskloof, the Okavango Delta’s most affordable safari, 6 local shores to explore and Italy’s 8 prettiest dips.

Our national parks are a treasure and we should use them, writes Sonya Schoeman.

In 1912, an area just south-west of the Lebombo Mountains was declared the Mkhuze Game Reserve. It was recognised by the authorities at the time that the area’s game needed protection from the butchery that was taking place. As an indication of how extreme it was, an extract from the diary of ‘great white hunter’ William Baldwin states that he met up with another such man in the area who’d had a ‘splendid hunt’, he wrote, killing 150 hippos and 91 elephants.

It’s fortunate for us that someone stopped this free-for-all because those conservationists and the ones who came after have helped preserve a decent percentage of South Africa’s wildlife and ecosystems. As someone who values the natural world as much as you, our readers do, I’m personally grateful for the existence of national conservation organisations such as Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife and SANParks. It’s vital that this preservation and investment in conservation happens at government level because these lands, this wildlife treasure, belong to all of us, and their longevity depends on our interest in and support of them.

Here’s an interesting fact: Addo Elephant National Park’s occupancy is over 90 per cent. Being an ardent fan of the Eastern Cape, I’m not at all surprised. However, our senior journalist and gear editor Melanie van Zyl was. She’d never been. ‘I was so pleasantly surprised by it. My parents had always driven past Addo, believing it wasn’t a patch on Kruger,’ she said. ‘Now I believe that Gautengers must go. It’s such a different kind of holiday, such a different environment and so varied.’ Best of all, she says, the elephants there, which Addo is known for, are so peaceful that the guides don’t even carry guns.

Using her recent field guide training, Mel tested four routes that will satisfy different interests: wildlife, 4x4ing, hiking and a marine focus (from page 66). But then, you might say, there’s that 90 per cent occupancy thing. Don’t worry, we have you covered. Our Final Cut (page 36) this issue focuses on the Sundays River Valley, close to the main gate. Pippa de Bruyn chose 14 fabulous (and affordable) properties close by.

We hope it inspires you.

4 things to look out for in this May issue

 
What’s for free?
Boy, don’t we need free fare now that our leaders have disrespected our rand? On page 78, you’ll find some things to do this winter in Jozi, Port Elizabeth, Durban and CT for nothing, gratis, mahala.

 
Wish-list travel
Turn to page 84 and look at those pictures of South Luangwa National Park in Zambia. Then read that first paragraph and tell me it doesn’t put travel-lust in your heart. Also read Sam Reinders’ story on Kathmandu, which she’s visited 15 times (page 94).

 
One damn fine chicken
Since we changed our food pages, Food Editor Nikki Werner’s voice has followed us into our kitchens at home and on the road. This lesson on chicken makes three meals of one humanely dispatched bird (page 44).

 
Look out for the Good-Value Star
Each issue of Getaway has several inexpensive accommodation options, places to stay for under R550 pp (some for less) and that we think offer good value.

This month’s contributors

Samantha Reinders– Kathmandu, page 94
Samantha is a photojournalist based in Cape Town. She likes that her job allows her to shoot presidents and pimps, penguins and potjiekos.Her love of all things different, and the yin and yang is the only way she can explain why she loves the Karoo as much as Kathmandu in Nepal. She’s flown on Air Force One and has a tattoo she’s never seen.

 
Ondela Mlandu– Road trip: Swaziland, page 49
Before joining the Getaway team in 2016, Ondela spent a year exploring Europe. This is where she learnt the secret to packing smartly and living out of a suitcase. Eventually, she decided to switch the Amsterdam canals for South Africa’s seasides and landscapes and came home. When a Swaziland story came up, it was only fitting for Ondela to pack enough clothes for a long weekend, which she did with ease.

 
David Rogers–South Luangwa, page 84
If there were one reserve in Africa David could go to for the rest of his life, it would be Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park. Since first visiting it for Getaway in 1995, he has returned every year– often three times or more – and has experienced it when it’s dry, wet and in between. Every time he goes he’s blown away by the friendly people, the spectacular landscapes, the wildlife and the mature forests of trees.

 
Nandi Majola–Free things to do, page 78
Nandi recently started a six-month internship at Getaway. She has lived in four South African cities but considers herself a proud Durbanite. As a journo student at Rhodes University, she learnt how to interview people, but UCT’s travel-writing course sparked her interest in ‘interviewing places’, a term coined by AA Gill. She’s getting ready to see the world but before that needs to save and make the most of things to do locally, especially if they’re free!

This story first appeared in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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From insects to wildflowers, we want your best photos of nature in urban spaces – and there’s awesome Canon gear up for grabs.

We’re running a competition over on Instagram where you can win a new Canon DSLR worth R32999, or one of four monthly camera bundle prizes worth more than R8000 each. (Want to know more, as well as read our judge’s cheat sheet? Read through the competition guidelines here.)

Here’s the shortlist of best images we’ve seen for April: think you can do better? The competition is running until 24 July, so get your entries in!

1. This curious squirrel

A post shared by Cam Gouws (@camerongouws) on Apr 16, 2017 at 12:49am PDT

2. Life and death in a back garden

A post shared by Dustin van Helsdingen (@dustin.vanhelsdingen) on Apr 18, 2017 at 10:10am PDT

3. Nature asserting itself

A post shared by Jacob Kritzinger (@fokuns) on Apr 13, 2017 at 4:30pm PDT

4. These pigeons at dusk

A post shared by kris Barnard (@dr_barnard) on Apr 15, 2017 at 6:19am PDT

5. An overgrown railway bridge

A post shared by Light Breathing Photography (@lightbreathingphotography) on Apr 16, 2017 at 11:54am PDT

All of the above entries (as well as five every month for the next three months) are now the running to win the grand prize of a Canon DLSR camera kit worth R32999!

And the winner of this month’s spot prize (drawn at random from the above selection), is Dustin van Helsdingen, who has won a Canon EOS M10 and a TS 6040 wireless printer. Well done Dustin!

Driving down a scary road in Zimbabwe, our columnist discovers the importance of finding your emergency travel song.

Photo by Jeff Wallace.

I was in Zimbabwe with a girlfriend, visiting her parents, and it wasn’t going well. I didn’t know them and they didn’t know me, and I was shy and hid in the room and read books and they thought I was being stuck-up and superior, and they had long conversations among themselves about how books are for people who don’t know how to do useful things, which is obviously true but didn’t make me feel good. They were all going on some sort of family excursion, and I told them I’d visit my aunt and uncle in Banket.

‘Make sure you’re back by sundown,’ said her father. ‘You don’t want to be on that road after dark.’
I narrowed my eyes and clenched my jaw. How useless do they think I am?

It wasn’t a great day at my aunt and uncle’s farm – I was shy and sat in a corner and read a book, and they also thought I was being stuck-up and superior – and I left in the dusk and drove towards a horizon piled high with thunderclouds.

I don’t know if it’s true that taxi drivers in Zimbabwe leave their headlights off after dark because they don’t want the bulbs to burn out – that’s what a number of Zimbabweans told me, but it’s not always wise to believe Zimbabweans, especially about Zimbabwe. Still, whatever the reasoning, that’s what was happening. The oncoming cars rushed lightless from the dark like bad dreams. Then the storm started.

It had been building all day and now here it was, a biblical downpour that made the windscreen a dark silvered mirror. Half the road was paved and half was not, and both halves had ruts and potholes that filled with dark water to look solid. The oncoming drivers must know the road by heart because they kept swerving and weaving into my side of the road to avoid the invisible holes in theirs. I would have stopped but there was no hard shoulder, and a stationary car would just be easier to hit. I suddenly knew, without doubt, that this was how I die: in a front-on collision in my girlfriend’s car on the long half-paved road between Banket and Marondera in the wet thundering darkness.

A better man would have jutted his jaw and risen to the occasion, but I was not a better man. I was a scared little boy and the way I was crying, there was almost more water inside the car than out.

Then I turned on the radio. There was one CD in the player, an REM album I didn’t know, and as I drove, blubbing in fear and self-pity, ‘Imitation of Life’ came on.
Like a frightened fashion-show teenager
freezing in the corner,
Trying to look like he don’t try…
Hey, that’s me.
This lightning storm, this tidal wave, this
avalanche, I’m not afraid.
Oh yes I am.
C’mon, c’mon, no one can see you cry.

I played it over and over, that one song, unclenching my hand from the wheel to hit repeat for the three hours I spent on that hell-road with those oncoming death-cars navigating by echo-location. It was like a mantra, a good-luck charm. To this day I make sure that when I’m far from home and feeling overwhelmed I have it nearby, or remember to sing it in my head.

I finally pulled up to my girlfriend’s house and the family came out on the porch, trying not to look worried. I turned off the radio and the ignition and sat there a moment to let my hands stop shaking. ‘How was the drive?’ said her father.
‘No problem,’ I said.

Read more from this story in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our May issue features the ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and how to get the best of Nepal.

We’re always looking for great campsites for a weekend break, and we bet you are too. These 10 campsites near Joburg are all within 3.5 hours drive of the city, perfect for a quick camping trip: if you leave work a little early on Friday, you could be starting your campfire before sunset that evening. Have we missed your favourite campsite? Please let us know in the comments section below. Happy camping!

 
Also read: 37 of South Africa’s best campsites

1. Dinokeng Fishing & Camping, Roodeplaat Dam

Location: -25.643167, 28.383944
From Joburg: 1 hour

Dinokeng Fishing and Camping, Roodeplaat Dam. Image credit: campdinokeng.co.za

Number of stands: 28, 17 of these on the water’s edge
Electricity: Yes, at all stands
Braai facilities: Yes, but bring your own grid
Shade: Trees. Two on the water have lapas at an extra cost
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Game drives in Roodeplaat Nature Reserve and a cycling track
Important info: Strict opening and closing times and no loud music at any time
Cost: Please contact Dinokeng for details
Contact: Tel 0761967150, campdinokeng.co.za

2. Mabalingwe Nature Reserve, Bela-Bela

Location: -24.849239, 28.042757
From Joburg: 2 hours

Mabalingwe Nature Reserve, Bela-Bela. Image credit: mabalingwegamereserve.co.za

Number of stands: 77, plus various houses and chalets
Electricity: Yes, at all stands
Braai facilities: Yes, grids provided
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass and sand. Paved area for caravans
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Game drives, horse riding, walks, putt-putt, heated pool
Cost: R130 per stand, plus R70 per person (low season), and R200 per stand, plus R115 per person (peak season). Max 6 people and 2 vehicles per stand
Contact: Tel 0140017010, callcentre4@boschpoort.co.za, mabalingwegamereserve.co.za

3. Mountain Sanctuary Park, Rustenburg

Location: -25.853777, 27.473358
From Joburg: 2 hours

Mountain Sanctuary Park, Rustenburg. Image credit: Melanie van Zyl.

Number of stands: 30 (20x20m), plus various cottages and cabins
Electricity: Yes, but only at 15 of the stands
Braai facilities: Yes, grids provided. Wood for sale at R25 a bag
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Grass and sand
Pets: No
Nearby activities: 7km hiking trail, or climb the nearby ridge (10km). Swimming pool available in camp
Important info: Minimum two night stay over weekends, and minimum of two adults per stand. Request powered/non-powered/shaded stand when booking
Cost: R190 per person (powered stand), R140 (no power). Kids under 12, R100. R45 per vehicle
Contact: Tel 0145340114, mountain-sanctuary.co.za

 
Also read: Top 32 weekend getaways near Johannesburg

4. Manyane Resort, Pilanesberg National Park

Location: -25.254793, 27.219427
From Joburg: 2.5 hours

Manyane Resort, Pilanesberg National Park. Image credit: manyaneresort-pilanesberg.com

Number of stands: 95 caravan and 95 camping, plus chalets and safari tents
Electricity: Yes, at all caravan stands and 75 of the camping stands
Braai facilities: Yes, moveable braai drums
Shade: Scattered trees
Ground cover: Sand
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Game drives in Pilanesberg National Park. Park fees R80 per adult and R40 per vehicle
Important info: Minimum two night stay over weekends, and minimum of two adults per stand. Stands are available on first come, first served basis.
Cost: R230 (midweek), R320 (weekend) and R400 (peak season) per stand. Max 6 people and 2 vehicles per stand
Contact: Tel 0145551000, manyaneresort-pilanesberg.com

5. Vaal River Campsites, Wolwespruit Nature Reserve

Location: -27.416913, 26.317502
From Joburg: 3 hours

Vaal River Campsites, Wolwespruit Nature Reserve. Image credit: Dylan Kotze.

For rough and ready camping in a beautiful setting, try Wolwespruit Nature Reserve on the banks of the Vaal River. Each of the 32 campsites has a long drop, a braai area and a rubbish-collection point, and for showers you’ll need to walk to one of the two new ablution blocks – cold water only at present. Sites are allocated on a first-come, first-served basis and are spaced far apart along the riverbank. Aim for camp number six which is nearest the ablutions and opposite a short stretch of rapids which make for good angling.

Number of stands: 32, all on the river
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, but bring your own grid
Shade: Partial trees
Ground cover: Grass and sand
Pets: No
Important info: Barbel, carp and yellowfish (catch and release) can be caught here. R20 rod fee per person per day. Camping allocation is first come, first served. Bring cash, there are no card facilities
Cost: R50 per stand (6 people), plus R10 per vehicle. Park fees R40 per person, once off
Contact: Tel 0836885195, tourismnorthwest.co.za

6. Matamba Bush Campsite, Vaalwater

Location: -24.109507, 27.975654
From Joburg: 3 hours

Matamba Bush Camp, Vaalwater.

Matamba Bush Campsite is bush camping at its best. Giraffe, eland, sable and kudu are just some of the wildlife you’ll see roaming freely through this private 400-hectare game farm – there’s even a resident brown hyena that you might be lucky enough to spot. Tau Camp has four stands, each 150m apart, but if that’s not private enough for you, then book Mara’s Camp, the private campsite in the centre of the property. There’s a small pool at Tau Camp that everyone can use, and beautifully-constructed shared ablutions. Don’t miss the wonderful outside shower under the wild Syringa tree.

Number of stands: 4 private and 1 exclusive
Electricity: At Tau Camp, but not at Mara’s Camp
Braai facilities: Yes, with grids and ample wood provided
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Sand
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Perfect stop en route to Botswana – there’s an overflow stand for one-night stopovers
Important info: Minimum two night stay over weekends, three on long weekends.
Cost: Tau Camp is R245 per person, kids under 12 R120. Mara’s Camp is R270 per person, kids under 12 R135 (four adults and two nights minimum at Mara’s Camp)
Contact: Tel 0836531287, matambabushcamp.com

7. Bontle Camping Site, Marakele National Park

Location: -24.521008, 27.492639
From Joburg: 3 hours

Bontle Campsite, Marakele National Park.

Number of stands: 36, plus safari tents and a cottage
Electricity: Yes, at all stands
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Game drives and walking trails
Important info: Wheelchair friendly campsites and ablutions available.
Cost: R265 per stand (2 people) and R82 per person thereafter. Max 6 people per stand. R44 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0147776928, sanparks.org

8. Glen Reenen, Golden Gate National Park

Location: -28.506411, 28.618144
From Joburg: 3.5 hours

Glen Reenen Rest Camp, Golden Gate National Park.

Number of stands: 45
Electricity: Yes, at 30 of the stands
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: The nearby town of Clarens is a popular destination for art, crafts and restaurants. The park itself has numerous activities available, from hiking trails to abseiling and canoeing
Important info: Winter snowfall does occur and, in general, the area is prone to sudden weather changes
Cost: From R215 per stand (2 people) and R82 per person thereafter. Max 6 people per stand. R44 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0582551000, sanparks.org

9. Meiringskloof Nature Park, Fouriesburg

Location: -28.603675, 28.224508
From Joburg: 3.5 hours

Meiringskloof Nature Park, Fouriesburg. Image credit: meiringskloof.co.za

Number of stands: 24
Electricity: Yes, at all stands
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Some grass, but mostly sand
Pets: Well-behaved pets welcome
Nearby activities: Numerous short trails in the area. Horse riding, abseiling and 4×4 trail also available
Important info: Minimum two night stay over weekends, three on long weekends. Max 6 people and 2 vehicles per stand. Extra vehicles can park in the main parking area
Cost: R115 per stand (6 people) , plus R45 per person (low season), and R135 per stand, plus R60 per person (peak season).
Contact: Tel 0582230067, meiringskloof.co.za

10. Mahai Campsite, Royal Natal National Park

Location: -28.689805, 28.945933
From Joburg: 3.5 hours

Cascades waterfalls, Royal Natal National Park. Image credit: David Rogers.

Number of stands: 84
Electricity: Yes, at 44 stands. Communal freezer available
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Mostly grass, with some dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Hiking, horse riding (tel 0364386422) and trout fishing available (rod fees from R100 per rod)
Important info: Hikers must complete the Mountain Rescue Register at the Visitor Centre before and after their hike. Laundry facilities are available in the campsite
Cost: From R360 per powered stand (3 people, low season), and R120 per person thereafter. Unpowered stands from R330 per person, R110 per person thereafter. Kids half price
Contact: Tel 0338451000, kznwildlife.com

 
Also read: 5 unusual Gauteng getaways – these are not average B&Bs

The annual National Arts Festival turns the sleepy, historic Grahamstown into a riot of song, dance, theatre and fun which is why you need to book your bed for it now.

The case for Grahamstown
• For a small town, Grahamstown has an abundance of self-catering cottages and apartments, which cater mostly to parents visiting their kids at one of the boarding schools or Rhodes University.
• The guest houses are better than any of the hotels.
• Grahamstown’s peak season is the annual National Arts Festival, and people book up to a year in advance for decent digs. nationalartsfestival.co.za
• Graduation (April), Orientation Week (February) and the schools’ Balloon Week (October) are also considered high season.
• The Grahamstown Hospitality Guild offers an invaluable accommodation grading service, using the pineapple symbol to vet an establishment as Approved, Recommended, Highly Recommended and Superior.

Grader Judy Hockly knows her stock and is a stickler for quality, though like the Tourism Grading Council of South Africa’s star grading this is more about ticking off facilities and services than about taste; to view this comprehensive listing, visit grahamstown-accommodation.co.za.

1. Fiddlewood Fields, Best-value luxury garden cottages

Tripadvisor No. 11 of 40 B&BS/Inns

Just about every home in Grahamstown has a garden cottage for rent, but Liz Thomas raised the bar substantially with her three handsomely appointed cottages and Blue Room, attached to the house but with its own private garden entrance. Elegant and supremely comfortable, all have outside areas with seating to enjoy the magnificent garden. Blue Room and Rose Cottage accommodate two to three in a king-size extra-length bed that can be converted into two single beds, plus a sleeper couch in the lounge area; Sunbird and Butterfly sleep three in single beds on an upstairs mezzanine and two in a king-size bed downstairs. Liz provides a full English breakfast (R60 pp) and dinner on request, but the compact kitchens are well equipped for self-catering and each unit has a Weber. Secure off-street parking is screened from the lush garden views and pool. Given the level of luxury, these cottages are a steal.
Room tip: I like the fact that Rose Cottage is freestanding (and has an oven). Sunbird and Butterfly offer the most beds, but I’d be happy in any unit.
Cost: R475 per person sharing, R300 per person for school-going children.
Contact: grahamstownaccommodation.co.za

2. 8A Grahamstown, Most luxurious guest house

Tripadvisor No. 1 of 40 B&BS/Inns

Louise Poole built up her Oyster Collection, comprising six superbly renovated and professionally managed rental homes, including a B&B, in nearby Kenton-on-Sea, before expanding operations to Grahamstown two and a half years ago. Here she unleashed her impeccable design eye on a simple residential building, creating a six-room cocoon of decadence. From the large walk-in rain showers and 100 per cent percale linen on king-size beds to inviting sofas and a marvellously equipped honesty bar stocked with drinks and snacks, every sense is pampered. A maximum of 14 guests share a large open-plan lounge and dining area (with a wood-burning fireplace, lit whenever it’s cool) and a well-furnished veranda with great views; downstairs, a comfortable chill-out TV lounge opens onto the garden, with loungers dotted around the pool. Breakfast, cooked to order every morning, is a feast, and there is always someone on hand to assist. All things considered, 8A is very good value.
Room tip: Rooms 1 and 2 have the best views. Rooms 5 and 6, booked as a single unit as they share a bathroom, have no views but are a good-value family option.
Cost: From R595 per person sharing B&B, half price for under 12s.
Contact: 8agrahamstown.co.za

3. St Aidans – Best hospitality

Tripadvisor No. 4 Of 40 B&BS/Inns

Robyn James describes her Victorian stone cottage as ‘a home from home’, and a very comfortable home it is, comprising five en-suite rooms (four-star graded) plus a rather frilly VIP self-catering suite across the road. Robyn serves a full English breakfast; after this guests are welcome to use her kitchen or the braai facilities in the well-maintained garden, or she will serve dinner on request. Decor-wise, her style is very feminine – chintz and crochet – and quality, maintenance and housekeeping standards are fastidious. It’s the intense owner-managed focus that makes St Aidans. Most owners don’t do much to promote the town itself, given that their clientele are here to see children or enjoy the Festival; by contrast, Robyn is a font of information about what to do, where to eat and how to enjoy the best of Grahamstown.
Room tip: I liked the double Chapel room with its elevated views and balcony; taken together with Heart, these two upstairs rooms, sharing a little lounge, make a good unit for three or four people travelling together.
Cost: From R650 per person sharing B&B, R375 pp for under 12s.
Contact: staidansguesthouse.co.za

4. Mimosa – Best historic bedroom

Tripadvisor No. 21 Of 40 B&BS/Inns

Grahamstown has plenty of beautiful historic architecture but I particularly liked this large, much-loved Victorian home, commissioned at the turn of
the 20th century by AN White (who established the town’s first trading store, still in existence). Mimosa remained in the White family until 2003, when Sasha and Martin Scholtz bought it from White’s granddaughter, and they have retained the house’s delightful old-world atmosphere. By partitioning off a section of it with its own veranda, the Scholtz’s have created an entirely private unit comprising a tastefully furnished main bedroom with a queen-size bed, kilim and Victorian fireplace and a second bedroom, also with a Victorian fireplace and two single beds. Both rooms have doors that open onto the private veranda which overlooks the rambling garden and a swimming pool, and share a bathroom and kitchenette (stocked with tea, filter coffee, milk and rusks).
Room tip: As there is no lounge, the main bedroom or veranda has to serve as a gathering place if you occupy both rooms. Meals can be eaten at a small table in the kitchenette or on the veranda.
Cost: R480 per person self-catering, R530 per person B&B, half price for under 12s.
Contact: stayatmimosa.co.za

5. Mhambi – Best of Boho bargain

Unlisted

Owner Dez Weeks, a zoology graduate working at the Albany Museum, lived in South America for four years and has decorated his quirky cottage with interesting objects collected from his travels. From the open-plan bedroom-cum-lounge, a raised step leads to a cute kitchen with a door opening onto a lush secret garden. Dez, who stays in the house at the far end of the garden, is a gentle, kind host welcoming his guests with fresh flowers and a kitchen stocked with basic breakfast ingredients: cereals, yoghurt, fruit, eggs, cheese and olive oil (it’s furnished with a fridge, hot plate, microwave, table and two chairs). Mhambi is a simple, comfortable place geared for academics and post-grads requiring a peaceful bolthole to write, or for anyone who enjoys boho-decor style and will appreciate the garden with its pebble pathways, tree ferns and clivias.
Room tip: It’s worth noting that Dez charges only R385 a night for solo travellers.
Cost: R375 per person sharing. Long-stay rates are negotiable.
Contact: grahamstownaccommodation.co.za

6. Bartholomew’s Loft – Best historic collection

Tripadvisor No. 8 of 24 Speciality lodgings

The intersection of Cross and Bartholomew streets was the artisan quarter of 19th-century Grahamstown. Bartholomew’s Loft encompasses two of these restored national monuments, and is like a tiny whitewashed village clustered around a cobbled courtyard hidden behind tall gates. The units differ considerably, from the three-bedroom Loft that used to be a church to the 1852 Corner House that once housed a bakery. It’s similar to High Corner (page 49) in that it offers a mix of self-catering and B&B, but the original owners here were clearly of more humble stock and, like nearby Mhambi (see above), this is in a more run-down part of town. You’ll probably want to park behind the gate in the courtyard, particularly at night. Breakfast (R85 pp) is served in the original bakery.
Room tip: The Court Yard and Patio Suite are the cutest one-bedroom self-catering units; the Court Yard in particular opens onto a charming, private garden. While the B&B rooms in Corner House are very pretty, they’re on the main road and noise from traffic is a concern.
Cost: R475 per person sharing B&B, R150 per person for under 12s, R415 per person sharing self-catering, R1650 for The Loft (sleeps six).
Contact: bartholomewsloft.co.za

7. 7 Oatlands

Unlisted

Rob and Emma Cooper moved to Grahamstown six years ago when their daughter and son started school there (their son is now the fourth generation to attend St Andrew’s College) and bought a beautiful stone house on Oatlands Road. As Emma is an interior decorator and project manager, it made sense to renovate and dress
the two stone cottages at the end of their driveway, and she has done a great job in converting them into two stylish boltholes. Both have an open-plan lounge-cumbedroom, bathroom and kitchen with a fridge, stove and microwave. The kitchens are also stocked with ground coffee, tea, rusks and fresh milk. Each cottage has its own outdoor furnished area, and guests are also welcome to wander through the main garden.
Room tip: Cottage One, with three single beds, is the larger. Cottage Two, behind it, has a king-size bed and is the more private.
Cost: R580 per person sharing.
Contact: grahamstownaccommodation.co.za

8. High Corner

Tripadvisor No. 5 of 40 B&BS/Inns

This delightful collection of historic buildings in High Street is the best, most convenient option if you want to be in the centre of town: directly opposite the Drostdy Arch entrance to Rhodes University and within strolling distance from most restaurants, bars and coffee shops. The collection includes the 1814 Messenger’s Cottage, said to be the oldest in Grahamstown, the former Saddle Shop and Grahamstown Gentlemen’s Club (in one building) and The Tannery. In 1862 the Club added another storey in order to accommodate visiting country members; today it hosts the four B&B rooms, still featuring the original Oregonpine wall panelling and high ceilings and furnished with Cape antiques. Behind the guest house are three selfcatering units, all in excellent nick and hugely popular given
the unbelievable rate.
Room tip: If you’re opting for B&B, book Thomas Stubbs or Guy Butler rooms – for the fantastic wood panelling alone. Of the three self-catering options (you are, after all, close to a choice of breakfast venues) my preference is the single-level, two-bedroom Messenger’s Cottage.
Cost: From R620 per person sharing B&B, R230 per person for under 10s, self-catering from R520 per person sharing, free for under 10s.
Contact: highcorner.co.za

9. Colonel Graham Guest House

Comprises four separate buildings of which the purpose built (2016) Frances House is the top pick, great for those who like an uncluttered space with brand-new modern fittings. Rooms are big, with king or twin beds and a small lounge area, bar fridge, air-con and modern bathroom. Book an upstairs room for the views.
Cost: From R655 per person sharing B&B.
Contact: colonelgrahamguesthouse.co.za

10. Cottage in the Garden

A fairly basic but sweet little two person studio, privately located in a back corner with a small patio to enjoy the pretty garden views; if it’s available you’ve bagged yourself a bargain.
Cost: From R300 per person sharing.
Contact: cottageinthegarden.co.za

11. Apple Bee

Jeannine Evans’ well-furnished one-bedroom garden cottages enjoy a deserved four-pineapple rating. Of the two, I prefer Guest Cottage One.
Cost: R440 per person sharing.
Contact: grahamstownaccommodation.co.za

12. Lanherne

If St Aidans and 8A are full, it’s worth looking at this well-run guest house in a pretty home with good rooms, simple easy-on-the-eye decor and a great veranda.
Cost: From R690 per person B&B.
Contact: lanherne.co.za

Read more from this story in the January 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our January issue features a bucket list of 45 experiences to have at least once in South Africa, a new way to experience the Wild Coast, and a beautiful beach holiday in Sri Lanka.

Who ever would have thought you could find Africa’s most exciting trout fishing rivers here? Patrick Tillard tells us why it is.

Dreaming of a place where the trout always bite? In the wilds of Mount Kenya and the Aberdares, where elephant, buffalo and leopard roam, the pristine streams and lakes offer unparalleled angling that is as exciting and unique as it is untapped. Words and photographs by Patrick Tillard.

I tread gingerly through the bog following guide Sven Verwiel intently, my eyes and ears pricked for the slightest noise. Last night, returning to our bandas (huts) just as the last trace of dusk faded to inky darkness, we bumped into a young male leopard scurrying across the timberland track. He stopped briefly, no more than 10 metres away, his wide-eyed stare slicing through mine – awesome beauty and cruel menace in one look – before slinking silently into the undergrowth. The path we walk now to the river indicates similar danger; freshly cut by buffaloes in the night as they leave the forest to graze the open plains. Although now back in the shade of the bush, there is no doubt they are close by, as are elephants and hyenas. Close encounters with these animals, especially on foot, are best avoided.

Fishing guide Sven Verwiel casts a fly into a tiny pool in Mount Kenya National Park. This stretch is typical of the intimacy that can be expected when fishing at 3000 metres. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

At the equator, the sun rises as fast and dramatically as it falls. As we reach the water, warmth is already puncturing the cold mountain air; the aroma of upland shrubs balms the soft breeze and the cover resonates with exotic birdsong. From the shrinking glaciers way above us, icy flows gather momentum through the rocks and moorlands, forging a long course towards the Indian Ocean.The upper reaches, still far from any villages that depend on these waters for survival, run narrow and crystal clear, teeming with brown trout – wild specimens descended from fish stocked by colonial settlers such as Ewart Grogan back in the 1900s, onerously transported from Loch Leven in Scotland by boat and ox-cart (a journey of some 7 000 miles).

The right choice of fly is vital when chasing wily trout. Patterns must mimic what the fish are feeding on at that time. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

Sven crawls on hands and knees and spies into a pool no wider than a single step. He turns and beckons his sister Michelle into position with an excited glint in his eye. Using a bow and arrow cast, she flicks a dry fly into the bubbling current – there is a subtle art to fishing Kenya’s streams; a blend of skill and stealth – and a fish hits the imitation as if it were a starved crocodile during the wildebeest migration. It has likely never seen an angler’s lure before. The one-pound brownie charges irately up and down the small pool before succumbing to hand, a rich golden flank peppered with black and rose freckles. After careful admiration, Sven releases the trout back into the flow – as he insists all guests do – to safeguard the health of future stocks.

The intimate fishing within these elevated lands is as untapped as it is remote. Reaching the town of Chogoria a few days earlier, 185 kilometres from Nairobi, passing swathes of tea and banana plantations, rice fields and hectic stalls selling assorted fruits and kitsch wares, we turned on to a red-dirt road carving a track up the mountain. Signs of civilisation soon dried up. For 26 kilometres the car jerked over potholes the size of bathtubs and spine-juggling corrugations, through luscious upland forest bruised by elephant, and thick impenetrable bamboo opening up into wide heaths of grass tussocks browsed by reedbuck, waterbuck and eland. Here, the rudimentary bandas of Mount Kenya National Park, the acclimatising stopover for hikers and porters, sit in the shadow of
the sacred massif.

Sven searches a deep pool under one of the many waterfalls. These pools provide oxygenated pockets and rich feeding for the trout, and act as natural barriers to their movement, providing fast sport for anglers. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

From past accounts, however, our journey was relatively comfortable – it wasn’t all that long ago that the treacherous road to the camp was inaccessible to vehicles, eviscerated by the heavy annual rains. Sven learned of these rivers and similar systems in the sylvan depths of the Aberdares by studying Google Earth maps, and then, drunk on the idea of unearthing hidden gems, dedicated days and weeks to exploring them on foot with nothing but a few provisions on his back and a rod in his hand. His hunch was right. He found mile after mile of enticing pools and riffles that were totally unexploited. And, bar the occasional anglers he takes into these wild and testing hinterlands, they remain just so.

Sven is a font of knowledge on all things piscine, his depth of understanding about trout and their ecosystem encyclopaedic. His specialist company, Iolaus, offers trips to the lesser-known waters of East Africa (‘where fishing takes you to the most beautiful places on Earth’), although this is just the tip of the iceberg of his longterm vision. He aims to put Kenyan fishing on the map, and by using the trout as a badge of river health, in turn he has epic ambitions to preserve vast chunks of the country’s habitats. A legacy is budding.

The fishing hut may be rudimentary, butit comes with a most magnificent view. From here, you can see Batian Peak, the highest point of Mount Kenya. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

The sun is high overhead as we break for lunch. The vivid red wing tips of a turaco flash through the branches of cedar draped in bearded moss, and the cry of a fish eagle echoes on the hill. The Batian peak of Mount Kenya juts into a cobalt sky, the first string of alpinists already descending from the 5 199-metre summit – Africa’s second-highest mountain – having woken well before sunrise.

Sven has something totally different planned for the afternoon. In the lakes higher up the mountain, where the air is silky thin and wildlife is scarce, stocked rainbow trout have been left to their own devices and have taken to the conditions with unprecedented zeal. In less than two years, fish grow from fingerlings to three-pound brutes, climbing well into double figures.

With the hook clamped in a vice, a craftsman sets about meticulously tying a fly. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

Back on hands and knees, he spots at least eight fat trout lying in the translucent shallows only a few feet from the bank, ranging from four to 12 pounds (1,8 to 5,4 kilograms). He gives a point of reference, three feet in front of the fish, and tells me to strip the line slowly, hoping to induce a follow. As expected, he’s right. A rainbow turns with intent as the fly swings past its nose, making a move at the last minute. A five-pound hen sporting vibrant pink and silver erupts through the surface. It is the first of many.

Far from civilisation, this is unlike any other fishing to be found within the pages of an atlas. It is not for the faint-hearted – the highest lake, Michaelson, sits above the clouds at an altitude of 4700 metres and commands a gruelling hike. But it is worth the effort. Mount Kenya, like so much of Africa, is an area of spectacular extremes and constant surprise.

A five-pound (2,3 kilograms) rainbow trout makes a dash for freedom in Lake Ellis. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

Descending the steep crags of the mountain as a dense mist closes in, Sven has one last stop in mind before we return to the bandas to recall the day’s action over a cold lager and braai. It is a complete change once more. A slender ribbon of fast water lined by giant heather tumbles through deep gorges and over waterfalls that appear without warning, the noise masked by thick vegetation. We enjoy another hour of constant action, as small, feisty brown trout hurl themselves at our myriad nymphs and dry-fly patterns. I lose track of time, but thankfully Sven is not so easily led awry.

As the sun melts behind the ridge, a riot of colour streaking across the sky, we reluctantly peel ourselves from the river. But we must; soon the leopards and buffaloes will be leaving the bush. I don’t fancy chancing my luck for a second night running.

Joe Njeru keeps back from the water’s edge to avoid disturbing the trout. Even in the narrow pools that wind through the bush, fish up to three pounds (1,3 kilograms) can be caught. Photo by Patrick Tillard.

Plan your trip

Getting there

Kenya Airways flies to Nairobi daily from Joburg and three times a week from Cape Town; it costs from R7300. kenya-airways.com. A guide will meet you at the airport and drive you to the camp (two to five hours depending on which lake or river it’s at), on frenetic roads but through beautiful scenery. Flights to Nanyuki from Nairobi, which reduces time on the road significantly, can also be organised.

When to go

The fishing season is dictated by dry weather and runs from July through to early October and again from December to March. The mountain ranges have their own microclimates, with the average temperature being 20°C to 25°C. Conversely, at night it can drop below zero and frosts are common. Remember that at high altitude your skin is extremely susceptible to sunburn.

Costs

Iolaus Fishing Travel has various, customisable fishing packages on two of Kenya’s most stunning mountain ranges, the Aberdares and Mount Kenya. Rates start from about R4200 pp for a two-day trip (for four people), and R23 800 pp for six days – this includes all park fees, fishing licenses, food, accommodation and road transport within the country. iolaus.biz

Need to know

Be warned: the fishing is, in places, hard going. While the lakes are novice-friendly, the narrow streams require proficiency with a rod. The guides will ensure that you are well looked after, whatever your level of experience. It is certainly worth having a casting lesson or two beforehand. Elephant and buffalo are abundant in both Aberdare and Mount Kenya National Parks, and their presence makes for an unequalled fishing trip. Show respect and listen to the guides at all times when in the vicinity of these animals. South Africans do not need a visa to visit Kenya for less than 30 days.

Accommodation

The mountains have a combination of rustic bandas and higher-end cabins. At Chogoria, our huts were simple but comfortable. It’s the unique fishing and surroundings that are the focus on these trips. The host will ensure that the food is fresh and hearty, matching the day’s itinerary. Menus can be customised.

What to take

For the fishing: waders, 2–3 wt rods for rivers and 4–6 wt rods for lakes, tippets up to 6lb and a wide selection of flies (ideally nymphs, streamers, buzzers and dry flies). If you don’t have everything on the list, fear not – Sven has more kit than you can shake a stick at. Rental costs from R350 a day for a rod, line and reel. Other necessities: hiking boots, warm clothing for the evenings, a rain jacket, comfortable shoes, sunglasses, sun cream, a small backpack and insect repellent.

Read more from this story in the January 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our January issue features a bucket list of 45 experiences to have at least once in South Africa, a new way to experience the Wild Coast, and a beautiful beach holiday in Sri Lanka.

Like wine, appreciating the wild may be something that gets better with age.

Photo by Tyson Jopson.

I have a confession. As a youngster, I hated going to the bushveld. I found it boring and monotonous and never understood why we’d have to stop the car every five minutes to watch lugubrious beasts eat grass. What more was there to see once you’d spotted them? Family trips to the Kruger felt like punishment; like being made to stand in the corner of a classroom. Except the classroom was an endless veld where nothing ever happened and the corner was a car window, with Billy Joel’s ‘We Didn’t Start the Fire’ blaring from the speakers because my dad thought it made ruminating giraffes look like they were lip-synching. It made me wonder who did start that fire and if I could persuade them to start one where I was so we’d be forced to go home where I could race my best friend Steven to the mall on my 18-speed Raleigh bicycle.

When you’re 12 ‘the elders’ don’t care about your bicycle gang or that it’s Laureen from Dingle Road’s birthday on Saturday and she told Natasha who told Steven that she might slow-dance with you in her garage if you asked her. And that’s why I found myself in Swaziland’s Malolotja Nature Reserve with my grandparents on a weekend when I really wanted to be somewhere else.

If I thought Kruger was tedious, Malolotja was Test-match cricket. There was so little going on there we didn’t even have to stay in the car. This was
a place for walking, Grandpa declared, and I spent my Saturday plodding along behind his long socks, past stupid cycads and sneezing blesbok while Laureen was probably hanging balloons in her garage. The only highlight was a visit to Piggs Peak Hotel and Casino where there was a restaurant and a pool with a bar inside it and bright, flashing machines that ate money. Why weren’t we staying there? I got home and learnt Laureen had slow-danced with someone else, and I lied and said it didn’t matter because I’d been away gambling and drinking cocktails from a bar you could swim to and I never mentioned that miserable reserve at all.

Sunset over Malolotja

A few weeks ago, on a road trip with journalist Ondela Mlandu (page 49), I visited Malolotja for the first time since. The cabins have taken a dive but the landscape was exactly the same. Except it was different. It was beautiful, and alive! The grass swayed, lithe zebras grazed with hulking elands and the sun filtered through the spines of large cycads. Warblers danced in the breeze, sugarbirds showed off their plumage and dassies commandeered the bows of rocks as if they were frigates and they were their furry captains. Blesbok were still sneezing.

It made me think of a letter that a reader sent in (Is this the lost generation? page 12), lamenting our youth’s lack of interest in nature reserves. I don’t know when I first really fell in love with the bush, but I do know that sometimes you can only appreciate real beauty when you’re ready. And now those memories of being in the wild with my family shine brighter than any mall or pool bar or flashing money-eating machine ever could. And I’m endlessly grateful they kept making me go.

Read more from this story in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our May issue features the ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and how to get the best of Nepal.

What is it about the Karoo, and Route 62, that makes you want to go back again and again? Astride a classic motorcycle with friends, Tyson Jopson discovered the secret.

There’s a wonderfully outlandish scene in the classic British film Withnail and I that took up residence in my brain the moment I saw it. Richard E. Grant drives a Jaguar MK2 from Cumbria to London with a severely hungover Paul McGann flopping around in the back. Grant swerves through traffic like a madman, gripped by the idea of ‘making time!’ while Jimi Hendrix’s Voodoo Child plays in the background.

CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Taking a break on Swartberg Pass; hammering along Franschhoek Pass; Al trying to hail sheep just outside Ladismith; sheep answers back.

 
My first introduction to the Karoo was similar. Except I was the Voodoo Child, bobbing up and down in the back seat of a maroon Kombi between two cousins while my uncle, dead set on breaking the distance/time continuum, sped down the N1 likea madman. Just after a blur that looked a lot like Laingsburg, we hit a fowl with the rear-view mirror. I’m not sure if it was guinea or other because it evaporated into thin air on impact. All that remained was a cracked and bloody mirror dangling beside the car by two electrical cables like a robot quarry.

Cruising along Route 62 just after sunrise.

 
That was 25 years ago. This time I was behind the wheel. Or handlebar, rather: astride a Royal Enfield Classic 500, happy to take it easy and leave the Karoo with as much fowl as it had on arrival. I was in good company. Beside me, on another Enfield, was vegetarian, long-time friend and prince of awful puns Alasdair McCulloch. Behind me, riding pillion, was Kati Auld, partner of two years and one half of a relationship that was at first awkward, then magical and on its way to reaching that glorious point where you can be in the same room and not speak for hours and it feels like the most natural thing in the world.

Somewhere between Montagu and Barrydale, a lonely Karoo wind dreamed of a job as a hairstylist.

 
A year ago a situation like that would have caused me some discomfort. Fifteen and, well, I’d have been a teenager alone in a room with a girl, so it would have been closer to sheer, blind panic. After three days of cruising through a constant Karoo, with the wind rippling over your cheeks and your mind alone and free, you start to think about that sort of thing … how different you were back then.

Like all good road trips, this one had started once we’d peeled off the highway. At the top of Franschhoek Pass there was an introductory lesson on the perils of not having a windshield. Nearing Theewaterskloof Dam, its dead trees clawing out of the shallows like the souls of the River Styx, rain started to fall. It wasn’t hard rain but (in the interest of style) we’d opted for open-face helmets and the droplets stung our cheeks like Lilliputian harpoons as we raced past Villiersdorp in search of open sky.

We found respite in Robertson, under the blue shadows of the Langeberg, and stopped for lunch. We walked away from our army-green machines, all leather jackets and jeans and the swagger of Steve McQueen. They say two’s company. Well, three’s a gang.

You’ll find these old pumps and rusted signs in Barrydale.

Safe through Kogmanskloof and Montagu, we were finally on Route 62. The tar was darker, the lines straighter and the sky bigger. Al’s white jacket glistened in the sun as he thumped on ahead.

In Barrydale, we hung around the rusted old fuel pumps in front of the Karoo Moon Motel, posing and laughing while the sky turned dark blue. That night at the Karoo Art Hotel, a local musician played the trombone and another a piano that had a samurai sword and a half-drunk Black Label on its top. It was a Friday but we were the only out-of-towners, slipping into a scene that didn’t care if we were there. It felt like we’d been let in on a secret, devoid of airs and graces.

On the second day there was the obligatory stop at Ronnies Sex Shop where, beneath a ceiling of bright panties and faded photos, we sipped colas and watched the first tourist buses roll in. After Calitzdorp, where we caught the town’s last order of home-made pies, we said goodbye to Route 62 and headed north on a gravel road towards the Swartberg mountains, grey peaks disappearing into clouds that hung above each like lampshades. We passed donkeys, and sheep whose bleats sounded like humans imitating sheep.

Inside the panty and t-shirt adorned bar at Ronnies Sex Shop on Route 62.

And then there was the Swartberg Pass. Built by a madman, an oracle, a genius, it’s the kind of pass made for two wheels. With buffs pulled over our faces, we raced higher and higher into the afternoon cold, rounding rocky hairpin bends curving above sheer bluffs. At Skelmdraai bend, we stopped to take in the view. Kati climbed a nearby hill and Al rode further up the pass for better photos.

Standing there, alone, I let my mind’s eye ascend to grasp the scene from above: Al winding up the pass and the lovely Kati, face peeking out between a red beanie and scarf, on an ancient koppie looking down into the valley below. Swartberg Pass was built in 1886; the first Enfield 15 years later. That exact picture could have been taken more than a century ago.

In Matjiesfontein, a wonderfully kitsch Groundhog-Day railway town, that picture didn’t change. That afternoon, our last, as faux bellhops dressed in red reported for duty at the Lord Milner Hotel, we rode our motorcycles to the other side of the tracks where a group of young boys were hanging out. ‘Again, again!’ they cried as we gave them rides until the sun went down. Again, again, I thought. Here where nothing changes, why do so many keep coming back? I wondered when I would too. Maybe it’ll be on another motorcycle. Or maybe it’ll be in a maroon Kombi with Kati beside me, dodging fowl while Voodoo Child plays in the background. Because nothing changes in the Karoo. What changes is you.

Route guide

Click on this image to view a larger version.

Day One: Cape Town to Barrydale

Distance 290 km
Allow 6 hours
Head out of Cape Town early to beat the N1 traffic towards Durbanville. Take the Klapmuts exit, then right onto the R44 under the highway and left onto the wine farm-studded R45 into Franschhoek. Then it’s left onto Lambrechts Road and up the magnificent Franschhoek Pass. Stop at the viewpoint (1). After Theewaterskloof Dam, turn left at the T-junction to stay on the R45 past Villiersdorp. Then it’s onto the R60 to Robertson. At the right time of year you’ll see gorgeous spring blooms on the roadside. After lunch (2) hop onto the R62 and up the pass to Montagu (allow extra time, there are often stop-gos). Head east on Route 62 north of the Langeberg and into Barrydale for a rather unusual night’s stay (3).

Day 2: Barrydale to Prince Albert

Distance 215 km
Allow 7 hours
Hop back on the R62 and grab a coffee at Route 62’s famous roadside stop (4). Then it’s into Calitzdorp for home-made pies (5) and north on Calitz Street, which
soon becomes a gravel road (brown on map) to a T-junction. Turn left onto Swartberg Pass. Give yourself at least three hours to get over the pass, and stop often for photos (7). On the other side, join the R407 to Prince Albert.

LEFT This old cabinet occupies a corner of the kitchen of The Cottage at Dennehof Karoo Guest House. RIGHT More trinkets (from Benoni, of all places!) at Country Store and Stay in Prince Albert.

Day Three: Prince Albert to Matjiesfontein

Distance 160 km
Allow 3 hours
It’s a short riding day, but you’ll want to leave early enough to give yourself time in Matjiesfontein. There’s a lot to check out. After brekkie (9) and a browse (10) in Prince Albert, take the only road, the R407, out of town to the N1, where you’ll see an Atlantic Oil fuel station on your right at the junction. Turn left on the N1 towards Laingsburg. It’s another 30 kilometres from there. When you see the small house with the red roof on your left, you’ll know you’ve arrived. Head to the pub (11) for a celebratory drink.

Directory

We did the first two days of a seven-day classic bike tour into the Garden Route and Karoo. The full tour costs R24 000 (incl. accommodation, excl. fuel). drifters.co.za

1. Best view of Franschhoek, Franschhoek Pass
Look out for the lay-by on the right after the second hairpin.

2. Bourbon Street, Robertson
Surprisingly good veggie burgers (R72) for a place that serves everything from Tex-Mex to sushi. Tel 0236265934.

3. Karoo Art Hotel, Barrydale
Gorgeous themed rooms in a quirky building with many nooks to explore. (Room15, great bath!) From R560 pp sharing B&B. Tel 0285721226.

4. Ronnies Sex Shop, Route 62
Classic roadside coffee (R15) stop with some rather naughty adornments. Tel 0285721153.

5. Die Handelshuis, Calitzdorp
Home-made ostrich or lamb pies (R35) that’ll make your mouth smile. Tel 0442133172.

6. Calitzdorp Station Bar, Calitzdorp
Great little hidden hang-out in a warehouse next to the railway line. Tel 0814733232.

7. Skelmdraaibend, Swartberg Pass.
Lovely viewpoint that looks down over the Groot Swartberg Nature Reserve. Look out for the ‘Skelmdraai’ sign.

8. Dennehof Karoo Guest House, Prince Albert
Beautiful old farmhouse converted into guest rooms. From R580 pp sharing. Tel 0728423056.

9. Swartberg Hotel, Prince Albert.
A Full House breakfast (R65) that lives up to its name. Tel 0235411332.

10. Country Store and Stay, Prince Albert.
Antiquities and old-town relics as fascinating as they are charming. Tel 0235411077.

11. Matjies Motel, Matjiesfontein
Decent rooms set inside the gardens of the famous Lord Milner Hotel. Be sure to grab a drink at the adjacent Laird’s Arms too(the barman might even whip out the disco ball). From R555 per person sharing. Tel 0235613011.

12. Railway Museum, Matjiesfontein
A blast from the past – see an old railroad switch and peer into the station master’s office. R10. Tel 0235613011.

13. The Old Post Office, Matjiesfontein
Buy books from the building where Olive Schreiner sent letters. Tel 0235613011.

What we’d do differently

• Worn full-face helmets.
• Given ourselves more time on Swartberg Pass – we ran out of light.
• Spent less time looking for alternative routes to Matjiesfontein. The railway service roads are all restricted.
• Called ahead to restaurants to check opening times. The Karoo works in mysterious ways.

Read more from this story in the January 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our January issue features a bucket list of 45 experiences to have at least once in South Africa, a new way to experience the Wild Coast, and a beautiful beach holiday in Sri Lanka.

A single day is really not enough to thank Mom for being the one who helped you with your homework, dried your tears after crash-landing off your tricycle, and ferried you between parties in her mom-taxi. From cheering you on at your sports day to cheering you on as you go through life, your Mom is your single biggest fan (apart from Dad, but it’s not about him this time).

So spoil her, even if it’s just one day. It’s almost that time of year again; that one day to show our mothers some appreciation and treat them to something nice to say thanks for the things they surely did for us over the past year. You will need to book, so don’t delay!

Not in Cape Town? Scroll down to find our Gauteng ideas (as well as Mpumalanga,

Western Cape

1. Mother’s Day High Tea at the 12 Apostles

The 12 Apostles will host two High Teas for Mother’s Day. The first High Tea buffet is a collaboration with Lindt Chocolate from 10-12am and 14:30-17:00. The high tea will cost R310 per person and will include a complimentary goodie bag, filled with Lindt Lindor treats. Another high tea to be hosted throughout the day, at The Leopard Bar. The tea will include a three-tiered high tea stand and is set to start from 10:00-16:00. Contact 0214379001 for bookings.

2. Mother’s Day at Rhebokskloof

Pay R295 per person for a wonderful buffet Mother’s Day lunch at the Rhebokskloof Restaurant in Paarl. Enjoy a three-course meal with a delicious ‘All things chocolate’ dessert and beautiful views. Make a booking early. Contact 0218698386

3. The Trees Restaurant in Cape Town

With large windows that overlook the beautiful greenery of the Company’s Gardens, you can enjoy a hearty, three-course meal for R 338 per person at the Townhouse Hotel in the city centre. You and your mother will receive a complimentary drink upon arrival. Phone 0214657050 for more information. Booking is essential.

4. Spa Day at the One and Only

Surprise your mom with a One and Only spa session that includes an 80 minute relax massage at the special Mothers Day price of R1495 at the . The package comes with a complimentary glass of Moet and Chandon champagne and decadent macaroons. Contact the One and Only Hotel for a booking on 0214315810

5. Lunch at Nuy Winery’s

 Nuy Winery’s new tasting room and restaurant, On the hill, wants to celebrate all mothers this Mother’s Day with a scrumptious lunch and a complimentary bottle of Nuy Sauvignon Blanc bubbly! You can enjoy a three-course meal at Nuy on the hill for R220 per person. Book for you and your mother at 0233470272

 6. Spa and Jazz Day at the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel

The Labrissa Spa is offering a morning and afternoon bliss for two that includes a deeply relaxing massage, included in the package is a high tea for two. There will also be Sunday Jaz lunch at the Oasis Bistro at the hotel with a buffet of Mediterranean inspired dishes, accompanied by Cape Town Jazz legend Alvin Dyers. Phone the Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel on 0214831000 for booking details and prices.

7. Mother and Daughter Lunch at Devondale Golf and Wine Estate

Get ready for a fun-filled Mother’s day at Devondale in Stellenbosch. Devondale has a special lunch for Mother’s and their children at R 360 per adult and R100 per child. The lunch includes a three-course meal and the children have a chance to enjoy a children’s buffet. The lunch has a special twist, with a competition running where the best-dressed mother and daughter duo will get a 5% off their bill. Book in advance to guarantee a spot. Contact 0218884734 for bookings.

8. Mad Hatters Buffet at the Radisson Blu

Pick your favourite hat and rock it! The Radisson Blu in Cape Town is hosting a Mad Hatters Mother’s Lunch Buffet. The buffet includes a three-course meal for R 425 per person and children between the ages of 5-12 years old pay half price. The lunch begins at 12h30 until 15h30. There will be a special gift for mom: a voucher for wine and chocolate tasting at the Waterford Wine Estate and a discounted Amani Spa Voucher. Contact 0214413000 for bookings.

Gauteng

9. Ladies morning at The Blades Hotel

Surprise you mom with a delicious brunch while overlooking the Dam at The Blades Hotel. During the day you ladies can head to the Main Lawn, where you can enjoy some amazing mini nomadic spa treatment. There will also have some jewellery showcases, where you can spoil your mom. Arrival time is 10:30 for 11:00 on Saturday, 13 May. Book now at 0128089943

10. Buffet at Aurelia’s Restaurant at the Emperor’s Palace

Come hungry for Aurelia’s special Mothers Day lunch. For R400 per person, you can tuck into an extensive buffet at the Emperor’s Palace between 13:00-15:30. Expect a grand choice of all-you-can-eat starters, salads, main dishes, a carving station and desserts. Your mom receives a gift. Click here to find out more about the restaurant or phone 0119281727 to book.

11. Designer Fashion Show and High tea at Parc Ferme

Celebrate Mother’s Day at the Michaelangelo Towers Hotel. The tickets are R350 per person, which include a high tea and a lovely goody bag. There will be a fashion show and guest speakers such as Business woman Edith Venter, Mrs South Africa– Candice Abrahams, former Miss SA and Business woman– Thuli Sithole, Fashion Stylist Anja Cruse-Bothma and CEO of the Mrs South Africa Pageant, Joani Johnson. Book your tickets here and contact Parc Ferme 0112454846 for more details

12. Lunch at Leriba

Leriba is offering a Mother’s Day lunch buffet at R245 per person, from 11:00- 15:00. The lunch includes a hot and cold buffet with a wine tasting included as part of the lunch. Contact 0216603300 for all bookings.

13. Armani Day Spa and Wellness Clinic

Treat your mom to an exquisite ritual of a scalp, back, neck and shoulder massage at the Armani Day Spa. This package costs R450 per person for two hours. Read more about Armani Day Spa and Wellness Clinic by clicking here. Contact 0319166744 for bookings.

14. Fairlawns Boutique Hotel and Spa

The Fairlawns Boutique Hotel is ready to host you at a high tea, fit for a queen. The classic high tea consists of savoury selections such as Scottish Smoked Salmon and Cucumber sandwiches, Mushroom and Parmesan creams and dessert delights such as Macaroons and warm Devonshire Scones with Clotted Cream and Strawberry preserves. For more memorable moments, each lady will receive a goodie bag from Lindor valued at R400. Contact 0118087300 for bookings.

KwaZulu-Natal

15. Buffet at Moyo uShaka

If you feel like beautiful scenery then a special lunch buffet at Moyo in uShaka might just do the trick. You will receive a welcome cocktail (alcoholic and non-alcoholic) The buffet is on offer for R365 per adult and R185 for children above the age of five. Lunch will be served between 12:00-16:00. Click here for more information or phone 0313320606

16. Heaven on Earth day spa

Combine your tea time and spa and pamper experience from R399 and receive a welcome drink, hot stone back, neck and shoulder massage, peppermint back exfoliation as well as a foot scrub and massage. End the experience off with some lovely tea and cake. The offer is available the entire month of May and you can read more about Heaven on Earth by clicking here. Contact 0814402350

17. Mother’s Day High tea and lunch at the Oyster Box

The Oyster Box has two offers available on Mother’s Day. There is a high tea from 14:30-17:00 in the Pearl Room with a goody bag and the talented Eric Canham to serenade and set the tone for the afternoon. The high tea will cost R450 per person. The second option is a lunch on the ocean terrace from 12:00-15:00 for R 750 per person. Contact 0315145018 for bookings.

Eastern Cape

18. Mother’s and Daughter High Tea, Windsor Cabanas East London

Enjoy a lovely high tea with amazing sea views at the Windsor Cabanas Restaurant Mother’s and Daughter’s High tea. The tea starts at 11:30 am and costs R 80 per person. Contact 0437432225 for bookings.

19. Brunch in Stanley Street, Port Elizabeth

Stanley street has an atmosphere different to most places in Port Elizabeth, with a cobblestoned walkway and street side restaurants and coffee shops lined up for a wide variety of choice in a friendly, elegant setting. Choose from Asian, Mediterranean or deli foods or go to For the Love of Wine for a bit of social wine tasting. Stanley Street is situated just outside the city centre and even has a view of the ocean. Contact 0725662692 for bookings.

Mpumalanga

20. Massages at the Cybele Forest Lodge and Health Spa

Tucked away in the forest, your mom will truly enjoy a day of peace and quiet at Cybele. They offer packages that include a Clarins facials, 60min Moya messages and express manicure and pedicure. Read more about this extensive spa by clicking here or emailing healthdspa@cybele.co.za Contact 0137649500 for bookings.

Limpopo Province

21. Body treatment at House of Asante

Take your mom to enjoy a full pampering that includes a circulation body wrap, hot stone massage and detoxifying facial and a mother’s and daughters tea. These packages start from R 690 and you can read more about the House of Asante by clicking here. Contact 0152953417 for bookings.

22. Relaxation at the Tzaneen Country Lodge

Treat your mother to a full Swedish body massage this Mother’s day as part of the Earth Spa Mother’s Day special. The treatment costs R 400 for an hour. Click here to learn more. Contact 0153043290 for bookings.

North West

23. Spa treatment at Sparkling Waters

This Rustenburg spa has a special specifically designed for mom-dad-couples so mom can enjoy a morning away from the kids. Indulge in a 50-minute romantic pampering session at R3 800 for two nights. You’ll also receive a glass of champagne to set that romantic mood. Click here for more information on Sparkling Waters.  Contact 0145350006 for bookings.

All Provinces

If you’re in the unfortunate position of not being close enough to your mom to treat her on Mother’s Day, then why not organise for a surprise bouquet to be delivered to her door? Netflorist has a special Mother’s Day offer where you can purchase a gift box, filled with a dozen long stemmed roses, plus a box of imported chocolates. They also have many other bouquets, in different styles and sizes, from which you can choose on the website.

If you woke up to the news of the escape of five lions from Kruger National Park and thought you were dreaming, you weren’t. According to SANParks, the lions were first spotted on the N4/Mananga Road crossing in Komatipoort on Monday, 8 May.

Photo by Scott Ramsay.

At the time of writing (and to the relief of many), it was later reported that three of the elusive lions were seen on a sugar cane farm, and have been successfully darted.

SANParks spokesperson, Rey Thakhuli clarified that this has not been their operation and that they are simply providing support to the MTPA (Mpumalanga Tourism and Parks Agency) who are leading it. SAPS have also been in assistance.

Twitter updates indicated that a helicopter was being used to continue the search and Thakhuli confirmed that it was to dart the lions. He also said there is a ground team supporting the vet in the helicopter and that investigations into how the lions escaped was underway.

It is unclear how the lions skipped the fence, but according to the SANParks’ Twitter account, the 5 sub adult male lions may have been chased away by a dominant pride.

‘If we are not successful in capturing the lions during the day, we will work during the night to ensure that no one is hurt,’ said Thakhuli.

South African Twitter has taken to commenting on the situation under #LionsEscape and while it has been helpful in keeping track of the story, you are in for a lot of laughter. Here is what a couple had to say:

SANParks emphasise the call made by the police for residents and motorists to be aware and report further sightings of the lions. Authorities can be reached on 080010111, 0768019679 or 0137350197. You can also follow @SANParks and @TheMikeAppel for current information.

Updates to follow.

There are many reasons why I love road trips and top of these reasons is that I often find myself mesmerised at how much Africa has to offer. I have always been fascinated by the history of Swaziland and on this road trip, the sovereign state proved to be magical.

A road trip from Pretoria to Swaziland with Getaway’s Deputy Editor, Tyson Jopson for the May issue, affirmed my love for the culture and heritage of Africa. The drive along the protected areas made me feel like a child again, as I sat at the back of the car, to get a better view. We took on the Hhohho region in Swaziland and this is what we uncovered.

Swaziland’s Sibebe Premium Lager.

The magnificent mountain scenery of Gobolondo Mountain. Taken by Tyson Jopson

The tale of a grieving maiden who cried after her Swazi warrior died, with her tears filling up the Phophonyane Falls; tackling a few giant rocks alongside Maguga Dam. By Tyson Jopson

Swaziland impala in their glory.

The Malolotja cabins, set in the tranquil bushveld. Image by Tyson Jospon

Unique batik items and basketry. Image by Tyson Jopson

Views of the Phophonyane Falls; The Peak Fine Craft Centre in Piggs Peak started off as a community project.

Read more from this story in the May 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our May issue features the ultimate guide to Addo, free things to do in your city, a photographic getaway to South Luangwa and how to get the best of Nepal.

When times are tight, a visit to the Winelands seems unlikely – if you start adding up how much a meal at a restaurant is going to cost, let alone a few glasses of wine. The good news is that there are things you can do in the Winelands, apart from a standard “is-there-any-wine-in-my-glass” wine tasting, that won’t break the bank.

Here’s 20 things you can do (including a few interesting wine pairings, not tastings) in the Winelands for under R100. Plus, they’re all close to Cape Town so you don’t have to drive very far.

Affordable things to do in the Durbanville Wine Valley

1. Signal Gun

Opening times: Tuesday to Sunday from 10:00 (times may vary slightly)
Contact: Tel 0219767343, signalgun.com

You are always guaranteed to have a good time at Signal Gun as there is so much to do, eat and drink. The kids will love it too! They do a beer and biltong pairing at R50 per person, a wine and Turkish delight pairing at R50 per person and a wine and chocolate pairing at R50 per person. The wine and pizza pairing is also worth a mention at R115 per person for four wines paired with four saucer-sized pizzas. Great idea if you are feeling peckish while wanting to try some of their wines!

2. Diemersdal Wine Estate

Opening times: Monday to Saturday 09:00 – 17:00, Sundays 10:00 – 15:00
Contact: Tel 0219763361, diemersdal.co.za

This option is slightly over R100 at R125 per person, but definitely worth a mention. Every Thursday night Diemersdal Eatery has a steak special at R250 for two. The deal includes freshly baked bread, vetkoek with a paté, two sirloin steaks with a béarnaise sauce, chips, a rocket salad and two glasses of red wine. Date night has just moved from Monday to Thursday night! However, as you can imagine, this steak special is popular, so you will have to book quite far in advance.

3. Hillcrest Estate

Opening times: Daily from 09:00 – 16:00
Contact: Tel 0219752346, hillcrestfarm.co.za

Hillcrest Restaurant hosts a Friday Tapas Evening on the last Friday of each month between 17:30 – 21:00, where you can share a myriad of delights, including prawn pops with sweet chilli; beef trinchado with mini rotis and a salsa verde; bacon and mozzarella cigarillos; butternut arancini; and deep fried Camembert to name a few (the menu changes slightly each time). Tapas are to be shared, so from R40 – R70 per plate makes this an affordable and fun night out. Spaces are limited so booking is essential.

Affordable things to do in Franschhoek

4. The Franschhoek Cellar

Opening times: Monday to Saturday 10:00 – 18:00, Sundays 10:00 – 17:00
Contact: Tel 0218762086, thefranschhoekcellar.co.za

Enjoy a cheese and wine pairing where The Franschhoek Cellar range is paired with specialty hand-made cheeses, including traditional Boerenkaas (Dutch Farmhouse Gouda), Emmental, Fontina, six-month matured Gruyère, and Gorgonzola. If you have a sweet tooth, try their wine and chocolate pairing, also featuring their range paired with a rich, fruity green fig dark chocolate, a dark chocolate coated apricot, cinnamon milk chocolate, pistachio and marzipan dark chocolate, natural strawberry-flavoured dark chocolate, rich mocha milk chocolate and a tangy lemon crème in dark Belgian chocolate.

Their latest addition to their pairings is the Pinotage Experience, which sees five Pinotage wines paired with five nut and biltong offerings. The cheese and wine pairing costs R60 per person, the chocolate and wine pairing costs R70 per person and the Pinotage Experience also costs R70 per person. Parents will also be pleased to know that Franschhoek Cellars are very child-friendly with plenty of activities for the kids in a safe, enclosed area with child-minders.

5. Tuk Tuk Microbrewery

Opening times: Sunday to Thursday 11:00 – 22:30, Friday and Saturday 11:00 – 23:00
Contact: Tel 0214922207, tuktukbrew.com

It’s not all wine-tasting in Franschhoek – there’s a microbrewery too, conveniently situated on the main drag. The Tuk Tuk craft beers, are handcrafted on-site in their 250-litre capacity copper microbrewery while the CBC offering comes from their state-of-the-art plant at Spice Route. Try four Tuk Tuk brews for R46 per person or six CBC brews for R57 per person. On Mondays you can tuck into their burger special for R90 per person (burger, chips and a half pint of beer/glass of wine/soft drink).

6. Farm Sanctuary SA

Opening times: Wednesday to Sunday 11:00 – 14:00, or by appointment. Meet Pigcasso on Sundays at 12:00
Contact: Tel 0614995006, farmsanctuarysa.org

Life’s much more fun than being a ham sandwich! A visit to Farm Sanctuary SA is a wonderful experience where you can relax, explore and even stay the night. It is the only officially registered sanctuary on the African continent for rescued farm animals and aims to inform and inspire positive change in the way society views and treats farm animals. Connect with rescued farm animals and visit the OINK Gallery featuring the renowned artworks from Pigcasso, their famous painting pig. You can also meet the famous artist himself on a farm tour that takes place on Sundays. Entrance is free, but donations are welcomed.

7. The Franschhoek Motor Museum

Opening times: Monday to Friday 10:00 – 17:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 – 16:00
Contact: Tel 0218749002, fmm.co.za

Look back at more than 100 years of motoring history and enjoy a unique collection of vehicles, motorcycles, bicycles and memorabilia in the magnificent setting of L’Ormarins. The museum’s collection exceeds 220 vehicles, ranging from a 1898 Beeston motor tricycle to a 2003 Ferrari Enzo supercar, with more than 80 exhibits on view at any one time. Adults pay R80, pensioners pay R60 and children (3-12 years) pay R40. Note: During the winter season, viewing is by appointment only.

8. Huguenot Memorial Museum and Huguenot Monument

Opening times: Monday to Saturday 09:00-17:00, Sundays 14:00-17:00
Contact: Tel 0218762532, www.museum.co.za

If you are interested in history, this is a great opportunity to learn about the history of the Franschhoek Village and the Huguenots. You’ll gain an insight into the life of the early Huguenot settlers as well as the Khoi San people. Entrance to the museum is R20, while the museum annex with more exhibitions and a souvenir shop across the road is free of charge. Entrance to the Huguenot Monument is R20 and is also well worth a visit. While you are there, stop for breakfast, lunch, or a glass of wine at De Oude Slaven Huis Restaurant on the museum grounds.

Affordable things to do in the Helderberg / Somerset West

9. Waterkloof Wines

Opening hours: Tasting Lounge open daily from 10:00 – 17:00
Contact: Tel 0218581292, waterkloofwines.co.za

The view from the restaurant at Waterkloof Wines is astounding, along with the chic décor and interesting art pieces. The restaurant set menu may be a bit pricey for many, but don’t let that put you off visiting this beautiful wine estate. Pop in and enjoy a wine tasting from R30 per person, a cheese tasting for R50 per person or share a Waterkloof Platter with your wine tasting for R150. You’ll enjoy the same views as everyone else, but at a fraction of the price!

10. Im Eima Restaurant and Biergarten

Opening times: Open daily from 11:00
Contact: Tel 0218581488, imeimer.co.za

A rustic restaurant stroke pub that has live music on a Sunday afternoon coupled with a very tasty Eisbein special for R89. They also serve German beers and other German favourites such as Bratwurst, Fleischkase, Schweinebraten, schnitzels, sauerkraut and spatzle, along with warthog medallions and zebra steaks! However, their Eisbein comes up tops so if you like things a little bohemian and offbeat and are an Eisbein fan, pop in here and end off your weekend on a good note! Be sure to make a booking too as they fill up fast.

Affordable things to do in Paarl

11. Le Bonheur Crocodile Farm

Opening times: Daily from 09:00 – 17:00
Contact: Tel 0218631142, lebonheurcrocfarm.co.za

Take a guided croc pond tour across open dams where over 1000 crocs are housed. You can touch a baby crocodile, view crocodiles underwater through aquarium-style viewing panels and during the summer months, witness a feeding twice a day. Adults pay R58, under-18s pay R32. While you are there, you can also have a braai using their braai facilities overlooking the dam. There must be a minimum of eight people and it costs R65 per person and R15 per person corkage fee (no matter how many bottles of wine you bring). They supply the glasses, plates and cutlery. Booking for the braai facility is essential.

12. Butterfly World

Opening times: Daily from 09:00 – 17:00
Contact: Tel 0218755628, butterflyworld.co.za

This popular spot along the R44 is a great day out for both grown ups and children. As the name suggests, there are thousands of butterflies to enjoy, but there’s a lot more to see at this sanctuary including birds, reptiles and small mammals. Look out for their free-roaming green tree iguanas, visit the Skeleton Park, enjoy a meal in their tea garden or restaurant, or take the kids to the Craft Centre. It’s a great place for photographers too as you can get up close and personal with the butterflies. Entrance is R80 for adults, R72 for pensioners and students and R45 for children.

13. The Giraffe House

Opening times: Daily from 09:00 – 17:00
Contact: Tel 0218844506, giraffehouse.co.za

Primarily an education centre, The Giraffe House really does have a real giraffe – his name is Gerry and he was hand-reared. They also have eland, impala, springbok, zebra, meerkats, warthogs, bat eared foxes and vervet monkeys, along with a large array of birds and reptiles. Their interactive creepy crawly encounters are held at 11:00, 13:00 and 15:00 on weekends and during school holidays where you have the opportunity to meet and hold some interesting creatures! Entrance fee is R50 for adults, R35 for pensioners and children (2-15 years) R30. They also host kiddy birthday parties if you are looking for something different.

14. The Spice Route

Opening times: Daily from 09:00-17:00
Contact: Tel 0218635200, spiceroute.co.za

Prepare for a full day out to enjoy a carefully curated selection of artisanal wares to explore, taste and appreciate. Pop into the Barley & Biltong Emporium for a cold craft beer and some biltong or a burger; indulge in a chocolate & confectionery tasting (R25 per person) at De Villiers Artisan Chocolate, Roastery & Espresso Bar; try an authentic South African dish with a twist at Bertus Basson; take on a Grappa Tasting (from R30 per person) at Wilderer Distillery; tuck into pizza, flammkuchen or tapas next door at La Grapperia Pizza & Bistro; enjoy homemade ice cream at the DV Café; appreciate works of art at the Barn Artist’s Studio Gallery; or shop for glassware, deli meats, jams, wine and more. There’s something for all tastes and all budgets on The Spice Route!

15. Wild Clover Farm

Opening times: Open daily from 08:00
Contact: Tel 0218652248, wildclover.co.za

Wild Clover offers a wide selection of activities and has a huge kids zone, which is great news for parents! Energetic parents can also take the kids on the “pops and tots” cycle track – a gentle 4km off-road route around the farm. Beer lovers can enjoy a beer and food pairing for R70 at the Wild Clover Brewery which includes 250ml of each of their four craft beers paired with a selection of four snacks, including a berry nutty cheese ball and dark chilli chocolate. If you are wanting more than a snack they also do a mixed grill basket for R90 or you could share a cheese platter for R120. For a few more rands you can try your hand at archery for R150 per person (R100 per person if a group of 3 or more) and clay pigeon shooting at R150 per person (group packages also available). Plus there’s horse riding and the opportunity to try your hand at controlling a microlight plane. Or you can just sit back and relax with a delicious pizza (highly recommended) accompanied by a cold beer or glass of wine at The Country Pub.

Affordable things to do in Stellenbosch

16. Clos Malverne

Opening times: Monday to Friday 10:00 – 16:30, Saturdays and Sundays 10:00 – 13:00
Contact: Tel 0218652022, closmalverne.co.za

This wine estate was the first to offer a rather unusual wine pairing – wine and ice cream! It sounds strange, but it is very delicious. Plus, these are not your average ice creams – think tomato chutney and basil ice cream, pineapple, mint and chilli ice cream, Turkish delight, rose water and pistachio nuts ice cream and mushroom, hazelnut, truffle and honey ice cream. These interesting ice creams are paired with the estate’s fine wines and it costs R75 per person. Give it a try! Note: The wine and ice cream pairing is not available on Sundays.

17. Historical Stellenbosch on foot

Opening times: Daily
Contact: Tel 0218833584 (Stellenbosch Tourist Information Bureau)

This tour will not cost you a cent and it is a wonderful way to explore the university town of Stellenbosch. Not only will you visit and learn about historical places of interest, you can snoop about in the many shops and art galleries along the way or grab a bite to eat at any restaurant or sidewalk café that takes your fancy. Simply pick up a map from the Stellenbosch Tourist Information Bureau and head off to explore. Tip: The Toy & Miniature Museum is well worth a visit and can be found just behind the information bureau.

18. Eagle Encounters at Spier

Opening times: Daily 09:30 – 17:00
Contact: Tel 0218581826, eagle-encounters.co.za

Get up close and personal with owls, watch and participate in spectacular flying shows and observe birds of prey in action. The entrance fee includes all of the interactive flying shows and all-day personal interactions with African Wood Owls, the dancing Barn Owls, Bengal Eagle Owls, snakes, Bearded Dragons, tortoises, rabbits, guinea pigs and more. Adults pay R75, pensioners, students and children (3-12 years) pay R65.

19. Middelvlei Wine Estate

Opening times: Open daily for lunch
Contact: Tel 0218832565, middelvlei.co.za

Only in South Africa would you find boerebraai tapas! Relax on the Middelvlei veranda in summer, or cosy up in front of the fireplace in winter to enjoy a fun pairing of Middelvlei wines paired with their very own boerebraai tapas, including mini potbrood and snoek pâté; biltong and caramelised onion paptertjie; and a cocktail boerewors sosatie. This uniquely South African wine pairing costs R70 per person and you only need to confirm your visit an hour prior to arrival.

20. The House of J.C. Le Roux

Opening times: Monday to Friday 08:00 – 17:00, Saturdays 10:00 – 15:00, Sundays 10:00 – 14:00
Contact: Tel 0218658200

This one is perfect for an giggly outing with the girls or for an stylish day out with mom. It’s sparkly and bubbly (excuse the puns) with plush chairs and shimmering champagne glasses which makes it all feel rather glamorous. A Sparkling Tasting (5 bubblies from their Sparkling Wine range) 
costs R80 and the MCC Tasting (5 Methode Cap Classiques)
 costs R90. For twenty bucks more, you can enjoy their Nougat Experience (5 Methode Cap Classiques paired with five pieces of specially crafted flavoured Nougat) and the 
Olive Experience (5 Methode Cap Classiques paired with artisanal olives).

Warning: You are very likely to walk into the House of JC Le Roux in your heels and leave with them slung over your shoulder!

If you have enjoyed other budget activities in the Winelands, do let us know in the comments below!

Researched and compiled by Rachel Robinson.

The Drakensberg and Kilimanjaro will forever enjoy recognition as being some of the world’s best hiking locations, but they are not all that Africa has to offer. Whether it’s central, Southern, North, East or West Africa, our continent has trails that boots should be itching to cover.

1. Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda

Known as the ‘Mountains of the Moon’ because of their snow-capped peaks, this legendary mountain range was believed by Ancient Greek geographers to be the source of the Nile. The Rwenzori Mountains are on the border of Uganda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). Rwenzori means ‘rain maker’ in the language of the Banyarwenzururu who live on the lower slopes of the mountain.

The Central Circuit Trail is a striking, well-maintained route that takes seven to nine days and there are plenty of huts along the way. The highest peak belongs to Mount Stanley (5109 metres) which takes a week to reach and climb. The Rwenzori Mountains are not without animals but spotting them is rare. The giant forest hog, leopard, buffalo, hyrax and bushbuck dwell within the mountains and primates such as the black and white colobus, blue monkey, and chimpanzee can be found. There are also more than 200 bird species, 19 of which are endemic.

The glaciers of the Rwenzori Mountains have also helped it earn the ‘African Alps’ as its nickname. Unfortunately, climate change has resulted in the retreat of these glaciers, but has also led to the formation of a number of lakes which you may come across on the trails.

2. Chamarel Waterfall and Seven Coloured Earths, Mauritius

The rainbow isn’t nature’s only multi-coloured phenomenon. A hike through lush tropical forest in south-western Mauritius culminates in a view of the Seven Coloured Earths of Chamarel, a geological spectacle that has fascinated tourists since the 1960s. These are sand dunes where seven prominent colours – red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple and yellow – are noticeable, especially at sunrise. These colours are caused by the conversion of basaltic lava into clay minerals. The Chamarel hike is approximately six hours and you will come across Piton du Canot mountain which you may decide to climb (it takes around 45 minutes). Nearby is the Chamarel Waterfall that is over 80 metres high. You will also pass the Black River Peak which is Mauritius’s highest mountain. There are several routes to the summit and they range from 3.5 kilometres to 5.5 kilometres. The Black River Gorges National Park is a protected forest that is also plentiful in trails, and it can be entered via the Black River entrance.

Photo by Martin Falbisoner

3. Mount Cameroon, Cameroon

At over 4000 metres, Mount Cameroon is one of Africa’s most active volcanoes, erupting every 10 to 20 years. It is also the highest mountain in West Africa. It is usually ascended using the Guinness Route (two days), which is a direct, albeit steep path to the summit starting from Buea. The most popular guided tours are the three or four day options but there are tours for just one or five days. There a numerous peaks and craters and the terrain also varies from farmland and rainforest to savannah. Mount Cameroon is rich in biodiversity with endemic plants and birds.

4. Mount Meru and Pugu Hills, Tanzania

Mount Meru (4565 metres) might draw fewer crowds than Kilimanjaro, but Tanzania’s second highest peak (in Arusha National Park) is apparently more challenging to climb. The summit can only be reached via the Momella Route but the lower slopes are teeming with wildlife such as buffalo, elephants and giraffes. It is therefore advisable to be accompanied by an armed ranger. The ascent consists of following the north rim of the volcano’s crater where there are scenic views. The forests and lakes make for great picnic spaces. Mount Meru is good acclimatisation for Kilimanjaro. A Mount Meru hike through Tanzania Expeditions is two nights and three days.

About 20 kilometres from Dar es Salaam is an area containing some of the world’s oldest surviving forests. Pugu Hills is home to the Kazimzubwi and Pugu Forest Reserves that are excellent for hiking and biking. There are over 80 recorded bird species making Pugu Hills the top forest for conservation. As a protected area, the forests are a habitat for civets, bush babies and leopards. There is also a viewpoint with a panoramic scene of Dar es Salaam. A walking tour of Pugu Hills is about four hours.

Mount Meru escapes its cloudy covering to tower over Ngurduto Lodge. Photo by David Youldon

5. Mount Mulanje, Malawi

Malawi’s Mount Mulanje or Mulanje Massif is located in the country’s southern region and is wonderful for hiking and climbing enthusiasts and also accommodates those looking for a gentle stroll. There are deep forest ravines, plateaus, waterfalls and peaks that are waiting to be explored. Trout fishing can also be done in River Lichenya. There are 18 hiking routes ranging from short walks to multi-day hikes. A comprehensive hiking guide has been created by the Mountain Club of Mulanje.

6. Monte Alen National Park and Pico Basile, Equatorial Guinea

Described as Equatorial Guinea’s best kept secret, Monte Alen National Park possesses well-maintained and accessible trails surrounded by 1400 square kilometres of virgin forest where you can find forest elephants, West African lowland gorilla, chimpanzees, mountain gorillas and crocodiles. Gorilla trekking is a tourist attraction in the area and locals are usually hired as guides for the trekking activities. You can trek, hike or walk in Monte Alen National Park but frequent wet and slippery conditions require waterproof hiking gear. It is also quite gruelling and you can hike for 22 kilometres per day. Permits from government offices need to be obtained before entering the park.

Pico Basile on Bioko island is a shield volcano that is 3000 metres above sea level. It has a gravel road that one can drive or walk on and on a clear day Mount Cameroon can be seen. There are guided tours of Pico Basile but they don’t go to the summit. Instead, you stop at the Virgin of Bisila, a historical monument at 2800 metres.

Photo by John and Mel Kots

7. Rif Mountains, Morocco

Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea are the Rif Mountains in northeastern Morocco which have expansive, open trails and cedar forests that offer a deep look into the Moroccan countryside. The trails are considered to be ‘off-the-beaten track’ and the best place to start is Chefchaouen, also known as the Blue Pearl of Morocco because of its old blue buildings. The Chefchaouen to Fifi Aghram trail is two days with up to five hours of walking on each day. A local eco-tourism company also organises a 10-day hike from the Rif Mountains to the Mediterranean coast, a 7-day trek through Talassemtane Natural Park where you can see God’s Bridge (natural arch and river) and Akchour Waterfall.

8. Dogon Country, Mali

The Bandiagara Escarpment/Cliff of Bandiagara is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in Dogon Country, Mali. The cliff features the famous architecture of the Tellem who originally lived on the escarpment and carved their homes into the sandstone cliff-face. The Dogon arrived later on in the fifteenth century and they live there presently. The Bandiagara Escarpment is 500 metres high and stretches for 150 kilometres. Treks can last from one day to several weeks and you can also stop by the Village of Songo for a cultural experience. Saga Tours in Mali specialises in Dogon hiking expeditions that is a 15-day tour with seven days of hiking. High fitness levels are required because they don’t use an escort vehicle on their tours.

Photo by Ferdinand Reus

9. Malolotja Nature Reserve, Swaziland

The Swaziland reserve is located on a sprawling 18000 hectares of mountain wilderness composed of protected highveld grassland, mist belt forest, wetland and woodland. Ngwenya Mountain is Swaziland’s second highest mountain and sits in Malolotja; the Nkomati River Valley is also in the reserve as well as Malolotja Falls, the highest waterfall in Swaziland. Malolotja is popular for its wildflowers such as the Barberton and Kaapsehoop cycads which are under threat. There are over 200km of hiking trails at Malolotja where one can choose between short walks and overnight trails. Campsites along the routes can help with planning and a seven day trail that covers most of the park is recommended.

10. Bokong Nature Reserve

Take a trip to the highest nature reserve in Africa (3000 metres above sea level) situated in the Lesotho Highlands. There are interconnected hiking trails and walks in the Bokong Nature Reserve and a route leading to Katse Dam that has the highest dam wall in Africa. In Bokong, there is a 45-minute interpretive trail, half and full day walks and a two to three day 40km hike along the ‘Roof of Africa’ that goes to Ts’ehlanyane National Park, the largest in Lesotho. Bokong is made up of grasslands, heathlands and wetlands and with the surrounds of the Maloti Mountains makes for an exhilarating adventure. There is also the unmissable Lepaqoa Waterfall (60 metres) which freezes in winter and is a treat for the eyes.

Photo by Sarah Isaacs

From mountain cabins, beach cottages, family-friendly, pet-friendly and wheelchair-friendly accommodation this list features all the places on Airbnb that we’re dreaming of visiting this winter. The list covers Gauteng, Kwa-Zulu Natal, the Eastern Cape and the Western Cape, so if you are looking for a comfortable bed that’s not too close to home, you’re in good hands.

Here are 28 Airbnb picks on our dream list this winter:

Also read: Getaway’s favourite winter recipes.

Western Cape

1. Cosy beach cottage

This private garden cottage is located in St.James and is a short walk away from Kalk Bay and Muizenberg with easy access to the beach. From this cottage you walk to the Kalk Bay tidal pool, check out surrounding restaurants in Kalk Bay and Muizenberg or take a stroll on the beach.
Price: R492 per person for a night and an additional R75 for an additional guest after 2 guests.
Contact: Book this cottage via Airbnb here.

2. Clifton beach apartment

Seconds away from Clifton beach, this modern spot is for anyone looking for a modern and contemporary feel with great ease to the city centre and Table Mountain. The area has stunning sunsets, easy access to the popular Clifton ebaches, and is still within quick reach of all busy tourist attractions and the city centre.
Price: R2246 per night for the apartment and no additional costs for extra guests.
Contact: Book this contemporary apartment on Airbnb here. 

3. Mediterranean  style villa apartment

This stunning apartment overlooking the sea is spacious and promises divine sunsets, particularly on the patio. Located on a quiet road, this apartment offers direct access to Table Mountain, incredible sea views and sunsets. Easy access to trendy Kloof Nek area as well as Camps Bay beaches and restaurants.
Price: R1754 for that apartment that sleeps two.
Contact: Book this spacious apartment on Airbnb here.

4. Self-catering beach villa

This self-catering villa with a state-of-the-art kitchen offers fantastic views of False Bay and mountains. Here you’ll find spectacular sunrises, tidal pools beaches, hiking trails. The villa is close to Simon’s Town where you can shop and find interesting restaurants.
Price: R904 per night for two people and no additional costs for extra people.
Contact:  Book this en-suite bedrrom on Airbnb here.

5. Collins cottage

This self-catering cottage is situated above the Knysna lagoon and offers views to the lagoon and Knysna Heads. You will also find a lovely garden setting and it’s also located close to town centre, and Knysna Waterfront amenities. There is also a deck on which you can enjoy your sundowner or have a braai.
Price: R505 per night for two people.
Contact:  Book this escape on Airbnb here.

6. Dream home on the Garden Route

Exclusive four-bedroom modern open plan living with floor to ceiling sea views from every suite ensures a relaxing stay plus its wheelchair friendly. The area also has a golf course, Mosselbay Deep sea fishing charters, beautiful wine tasting and game farms. Located in a quiet nature reserve surroundings, this spot promises a relaxing stay to recharge your batteries and restore your creativity.
Price: From R2498  per night.
Contact: Book this dream house on Airbnb here.

7. Bruno room

This Tuscan Farmhouse located on a small farm promises to be a vailable option for a home away from home. It is situated near Stellenbosch with stunning views overlooking a Golf course, Vineyards & Olive Grove. The B&B has four bedrooms and accommodates a maximum of 8 and features a Swimming Pool.
Price: From R850 per night for two. The rate includes a continental Breakfast.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

8. Loeries nest

This apartment is named Loeries Nest after the indigenous bird unique to the area, should be ideal for the birdwatchers. YThe apartment offers stunning views of Knysna and the lagoon, free uncapped Wi-Fi, bird life, plus free wine and snacks. A covered deck with patio furniture and braai facilities that overlook the garden.
Price: From R344 per night.
Contact: Book this private studio apartment on Airbnb here.

9. Bethsaida

Watch the sunrise over the bay or evening sunset. Whales in season and Dolphins crossing the bay to Simonstown while the SA Navy boats come out for practices. You have the option of heading into the fascinating and historical Simon’s Town or staying in to enjoy stunning views. Plunge pool set in large garden with closed in parking right on the mountainside and a stone throw to Boulders Beach and Penguins onto Cape Point. Located between the mountain and the sea, this one bedroom cottage features a double bed and shower with a sea view.
Price: From R505 per night for two.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

10. Villa ondine

Luxury beach front villa with direct beach access and sparkling pool. Amazing sea and mountain views with great outdoor entertainment areas protected from the wind. It sleeps 8 people in 4 comfortable double bedrooms, all with sea views.
Price: From R4000 per night for the house which sleeps 8.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

Eastern Cape

Also read: 16 free things to do in the Eastern Cape.

11. Cliffedge cottage

A secluded honeymoon destination and a haven for people wanting to get away from the madness of modern life. This self-catering spot features a wooden cabin, perched on the edge of a valley, it promises stunning views. You’ll find free firewood for those chilly winter nights. There is also a full length covered deck running along the front, with chairs, a couch, and braai facilities if you’re up for a winter braai.
Price: From R2004 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here. 

12. La maison Verte

This eco-friendly cottage which accommodates 4 people is situated in the quiet suburb of Rexford and is just minutes from the lagoon, Knysna Heads, town centre and two golf courses. The apartment promises stunning views of the Knysna lagoon, surrounding golf courses and Outeniqua Mountains. It’s also equipped with a large and well furnished covered deck and braai facilities.
Price: From R1693 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

13. Apartment with an ocean view

This place overlooks the Gonubie golf course and also includes a sea view as from the room. The area offers many outdoor activities and is located in a quiet area which makes it ideal for all sorts of travellers. There are also private game reserves close by for nature enthusiasts to visit and it accommodates a maximum of 6 people.
Price: From R1801 per night.
Contact: Book this apartment on Airbnb here.

14. Port Island 3

Perched at the ocean’s edge sits Port Island 3, a stunning 3 bedroom house with an infinity pool. You can also try out fishing directly in front of the house at the waters edge. There are outdoor activities to do around the area like mountain biking, guided night walks, birdlife, wetland walk, sand boarding, hiking trails, as well as rock, deep sea and surfing which can all be enjoyed close by. This apartment accommodates a maximum of six.
Price: From R2004 per night.
Contact: Book this apartment on Airbnb here.

15. The Leopard Tree

This family-friendly apartment is close to the beach with lots of outdoor activities to do and is surrounded by restaurants and dining areas. You’ll also find golf, bowls and other sports. This family oriented spot is also pet-friendly and accommodates a maximum of six.
Price: From R894 per night.
Contact: Book this apartment on Airbnb here.

Kwa-Zulu Natal

Also read: Things to do in Kwa-Zulu Natal that tell the story of the province

16. Izwa manzi beachfront villa

Right on the beach, this beach haven seems perfect for relaxing with family and friends while connecting with nature. With amenities, you will find all the comforts you need for a holiday apartment which accommodates a maximum of 10.
Price: From R8261 per night
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

17. Dragon’s Mist

Dragon’s Mist is a luxurious three-bedroom house with stunning panoramic views of the Drakensberg, located on an exclusive 1000 hectare eco-estate teaming with wildlife, it accommodates a maximum of six.
Price: From R1991 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

18. 41 Licorna beach

This well furnished three bedroom apartment offers stunning ocean views and direct access onto Umhlanga’s bathing beaches. Equipped with a swimming pool, abulution and braai area. The place includes a garden and is near a promenade that leads to beaches, nature trail and the lagoon. There are restaurants, nightclubs and Umhlanga shopping centre nearby for people looking for a more urban feel. This spot accommodates a maximum of seven people.
Price: From 2357 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

19. Over The Edge Cottage 2

This cottage offers beautiful views from your bed overlooking the Umzimkulu river valley and the Drakensberg mountains and beyond. Light a fire on a chilly evening or sip a cocktail on the deck watching the sun go down over the mountains. The spot also includes a fireplace.
Price: From R379 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

20. Blink bonnie 371

Located on a golf course with two golf carts this apartment offers braai facilities and a deck for taking in the views of the surrounding gold courses. The house has three garages, satellite TV, a bar and fully equipped kitchen. This house accommodates a maximum of ten.
Price: From R2655 per night.
Contact: Book this apartment on Airbnb here.

Gauteng

Also read: 6 unusual Gauteng Getaways.

21. Cosy, Upmarket, Self Catering Pad

This upmarket, trendy, fully equipped and furnished one bedroom space situated between Cresta & Clearwater Mall. Beautiful garden, close to amenities, you can walk to nearby restarueants with alternatives of public transport for moving around the city. The pad accommodates a maximum of two.
Price: From R515 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

22. Owls Loft Guest House

The spacious thatched lodge is designed to maximise tranquillity and privacy for visiting guests. With wifi access, gourmet meals and full transfer services, this spot is ideal for a group getaway into the city as it accommodates over 16 guests.
Price: From R555 per night.
Contact: Book your room on Airbnb here.

23. The Aloe cottage

Open plan loft style space, well designed with great outdoor deck space is ideal for working professionals. The entire space, from open plan kitchen to bedroom, has been made stocked with proudly South African designer furniture and goods and accommodates a maximum of two. You will get access to the garden area, cottage deck and parking space.
Price: From R948 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

24. Charming studio apartment

Chic Studio apartment in The Maboneng Precinct is nestled on top of the Museum Roof. Enjoy the City Vibe from the Apartment and explore the artistic side of the rejuvenated Eastern side of Johannesburg neighbourhood. This studio apartment offers you a comfortable queen sized bed, a lounge and state of the art kitchenette. All of this within walking distance of some of the best craft, design and food markets, restaurants and rooftop bars, and art spaces. This spot is ideal for 2 people.
Price: From R501 per night.
Contact: Book this apartment on Airbnb here.

25. Osborne House

Osborne House is a restored Edwardian manor house located in Pretoria. It offers a lovely garden and a terrace with tranquility, makes for the ideal retreat without having to travel a long distance from the city. The rooms at Osborne House are well furnished and the house accommodates a maximum of ten people.
Price: From R894 per night.
Contact: Book this spot on Airbnb here.

26. Golfer and adventurers getaway spot

Situated in Pecanwood Golf Estate, this place is close to art and culture in the surrounding Hartbeespoort area. It’s also located near Chameleon Village, the famous new Lion Park, fantastic restaurants and dining spots. There are plenty of family-friendly outdoor activities nearby, great views, Golf at Pecanwood, Hot air Balloon trips a
Price: From R542 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

27. Trendy, urban & private studio apartment

A light, spacious and contemporary apartment that’s secure and fully furnished for self-catering needs. Fitted with a private balcony and high speed, uncapped Wi-Fi, Cable TV, and a well equipped kitchen. Within easy access to entertainment points such as Monte Casino, Mall of Africa, Sandton City, Fourways Mall & OR Tambo International Airport, it should be ideal for someone looking for a more urban getaway.
Price: From R447 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

28. New York style city loft

Close to Maboneng, Braamfontein and the Sheds@1Fox, this apartment is perfect for families, groups of friends and business groups keen to explore the coolest parts of urban Johannesburg. The apartment has a balcony that overlooks the internal atrium of the building and is is north facing, which provides a really bright outdoor space, but is shielded from the noise of the city center.
Price: From R691 per night.
Contact: Book this room on Airbnb here.

Also read: Top 32 weekend getaways near Joburg

Please share with us some of your experiences if you’ve stayed at any of these stunning spots?

South Africa is full of gorgeous campsites and deciding where to book your next camping holiday can get a little overwhelming. To help narrow down the hundreds of options, we’ve put together a list of our best campsites in South Africa. Whether on the banks of a river, nestled in the mountains, or walking distance from the beach, we’ve got a beautiful campsite waiting for you. Take your pick, and as ever, let us know (in the comments below) if you have a favourite campsite we’ve missed. And please remember to confirm availability and latest prices with each campsite before travelling.

Looking for campsites near Joburg?

Try these 10 great campsites for a Joburg break.

Campsites in Limpopo

1. Zvakanaka Farm, Soutpansberg

Location: -22.977981, 29.952550

Zvakanaka Farm, Soutpansberg.

Number of stands: 4 private, plus a beautiful cabin and cottage
Electricity: Yes, at 2 stands
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of trees. Large shade/shelter at the 2 powered stands
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Hiking and birding
Cost: R100 per person (powered) and R75 per person (no power). Max 10 per stand. Kids under 12 half price, and under 4 free
Contact: Tel 0844004595, zka.co.za

2. Mazhou Campsite, Mapungubwe National Park

Location: -22.240303, 29.408439

View from Mapungubwe Hill, Mapungubwe National Park.

Number of stands: 10
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Partial trees
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Museum at the main gate (R55 per person). Daily, guided ‘Heritage Tour’ to the top of Mapungubwe Hill (R230 per person)
Important info: Mazhou allows caravans, but no caravans allowed in the eastern section of the park. Closest fuel is Musina, 70km away. Check gate times before travelling
Cost: From R265 per stand (2 people), and from R82 per person thereafter (max 6 per stand). R44 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0155347923/24, sanparks.org

 
Also read: 5 unusual Gauteng getaways – these are not average B&Bs

Campsites in the North West Province

3. Bush Camps, Botsalano Game Reserve

Location: -25.560855, 25.709919

For an affordable taste of the Kalahari, Botsalano Game Reserve is a prize – a thornveld escape that’s close to Joburg and has an abundance of springbok, gemsbok, buffalo and giraffe. With luck, you might even spot a rhino. Four rustic bush camps, each with basic ablutions (cold/donkey boiler showers), are scattered around the park in unfenced bush where blue and violet-eared waxbills busy themselves in the acacias. Botsalano is an excellent first stop for trips into Botswana.

Number of stands: 4 bush camps. Pre-erected safari tents also available
Electricity: No. 3 of the 4 camps have a donkey for hot water
Braai facilities: Yes, but bring own grid
Shade: Partial thorn trees
Ground cover: Sand
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Game drives and birding
Important info: Can get very hot during the day and cold at night
Cost: R250 per stand (sleeps 8). Extra R20 per person up to 12 people. Park fees R40 per adult, R25 for kids 2-12 years old. R10 per vehicle, R20 per caravan
Contact: Tel 0183868900, botsalano@nwpb.co.za, tourismnorthwest.co.za

Campsites in the Northern Cape

4. Augrabies Rest Camp, Augrabies Falls National Park

Location: -28.593904, 20.337711

Augrabies National Park. Image credit: Isak Pretorius.

Number of stands: 40
Electricity: Yes, at all stands
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Waterfall viewpoints, self-drive game viewing, hiking trails, cycling and guided night drives
Important info: Communal ablutions and kitchen wit two-plate stoves and sinks
Cost: From R235 per stand (2 people), and from R82 per person thereafter (max 6 per stand). R44 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0544529200, sanparks.org

5. Potjiespram Campsite, ?Ai-?Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park

Location: -28.074629, 16.963089

Situated in South African’s far northwestern corner, right on the Namibian border, the Richtersveld is for experienced campers looking to get as far as possible away from it all. You’ll need to bring everything with you to Potjiespram, although drinking water isn’t a problem as the campsite lies right on the banks of the Orange River. Winter and spring are the best times to visit, when the temperatures are cooler and the region’s famous flowers are on show.

Number of stands: 18, all along the river
Electricity: No. Cold showers only
Braai facilities: Braaiing allowed, but bring your own grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Sand and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Fantastic flowers between June and October (rain dependent). Various guided hiking trails available. Swimming in the Orange River
Important info: Bring everything you need for your stay. There are no shops in the park, but fuel and drinks can be purchased at Sendelingsdrift. Day-time temperatures can reach 50°C in summer
Cost: From R225 per stand (2 people), and from R82 per person thereafter (max 6 per stand). R70 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0278311506 sanparks.org

6. De Hoop Campsite, Richtersveld

Location: -28.183206, 17.177670

De Hoop Campsite, Richtersveld. Image credit: Teagan Cunniffe.

Number of stands: 12, along the river
Electricity: No. Cold showers only
Braai facilities: Braaiing allowed, but bring your own grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Sand and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Swimming and canoeing conditions are perfect on this quiet part of the river. There are no rapids close to the campsite
Important info: Bring everything you need for your stay. There are no shops in the park, but fuel and drinks can be purchased at Sendelingsdrift. Day-time temperatures can reach 50°C in summer
Cost: From R225 per stand (2 people), and from R82 per person thereafter (max 6 per stand). R70 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0278311506 sanparks.org

7. Kambro Campsite and Farm Stall, Britstown

Location: -30.416351, 23.565799

Kambro Campsite and Farm Stall, Britstown.

Number of stands: 6, plus 10 self-catering cottages
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Each stand has a tree, but some are more leafy than others
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: Well-behaved dogs (on a leash) by prior arrangement only
Nearby activities: Kambro is a fantastic place to stargaze
Important info: Meals (book in advance), beer and wine available at the farmstall which is also packed with delicious goodies
Cost: R180 per stand (sleeps 4)
Contact: Tel 0833056668, kambroaccom.co.za

8. Middelwater Camping, Carnarvon

Location: -31.235512, 22.210777

Middelwater Camping, Carnarvon.

Number of stands: Cosy, open-plan area under tall trees
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, but bring your own grid
Shade: Full tree cover
Ground cover: Dirt and sand
Pets: Yes
Nearby activities: Swimming in the dam (rain dependent), hike in the surrounding veld, fish and cycle
Cost: R180 per stand (sleeps 4)
Contact: Tel 0746470447, carnarvon.co.za

9. Die Mond, Tankwa Karoo

Location: -32.543689, 19.542150

Die Mond, Tankwa Karoo.

Number of stands: Large, open-plan grassy area along the riverbank, plus 7 self-catering cottages
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, portable wheeled drums. Bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Canoe, fish and swim in the river, visit Tankwa Karoo National Park, hike in the surrounding veld
Cost: R70 per person
Contact: Tel 0233170668, facebook.com

10. Ymansdam, Tankwa Karoo

Location: -32.087517, 19.966385

Ymansdam, Tankwa Karoo. Image credit: safarinow.com

Number of stands: 1 main campsite near the ablutions, plus 3 additional stands nearby, and a self-catering cottage
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Limited tree cover
Ground cover: Sand
Pets: Yes
Nearby activities: Swim in the small dam, explore Tankwa Karoo National Park and test your 4×4 on the nearby passes
Important info: 1 shower and toilet serves the entire campsite
Cost: R80 per person, with space for up 4 tents on the main stand
Contact: Tel 0725054121

11. Coastal Camp Sites, Namaqua National Park

Location: -30.828925, 17.575889

Coastal camp sites, Namaqua National Park.

Number of stands: 9 separate campsites with a total of 46 stands
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Braai pit. Bring your own grid
Shade: No
Ground cover: Sand
Pets: No
Important info: Wonderful place for spring flowers, although the park gets extremely busy during flower season. Bring everything with you, including drinking water
Cost: From R135 per stand (sleeps 6). R37 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0276721948, sanparks.org

Campsites in the Free State

12. Gariep, A Forever Resort, Gariep Dam

Location: -30.605555, 25.502290

Gariep, A Forever Resort, Gariep Dam. Image credit: forevergariep.co.za

Number of stands: 106 stands, plus 16 private caravan sites (closed from May to August) and a range of self-catering accommodation
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Fishing, boating and canoeing on the dam, guided dam wall tours, swimming pool, on-site restaurant and bar, plus plenty of activities for kids
Important info: All stands are first come first serve. One vehicle per stand (additional vehicles at an extra fee)
Cost: From R135 per stand, plus R55 per person (max 6 per stand)
Contact: Tel 0517540045, forevergariep.co.za

Campsites in the Western Cape

13. Koningskop, Citrusdal

Location: -32.499003, 18.848462

Koningskop, Citrusdal. Image credit: koningskop.com

Number of stands: 50, plus three self-catering cottages
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Hiking, mountain biking, fishing in the dam, and 4×4 trails
Important info: Restaurant only open during peak season or by arrangement. No loud music allowed. Minimum four-night stay during holiday season
Cost: R120 per person, kids 2-11 years R65
Contact: Tel 0761752520, koningskop.com

14. Jamaka Organic Farm & Resort, Cederberg

Location: -32.341164, 19.028404

Jamaka Organic Farm & Resort, Cederberg. Image credit: jamaka.co.za

Number of stands: 2 camping areas along the riverbank with 81 stands, plus 11 self-catering cottages
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes (pit or drum). Bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Some grass, but mostly sand and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Hiking trails, swimming in the river and rock pools
Important info: Wood and basic supplies sold on site. Communal fridge/freezer available
Cost: From R180 per stand (sleeps 4)
Contact: Tel 0274822801/0824106417, jamaka.co.za

15. Kromrivier Campsite, Cederberg

Location: -32.539149, 19.282041

Kromrivier Campsite, Cederberg.

Number of stands: 18, with private ablutions, plus self-catering chalets
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes, but bring your own grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Horse riding (book in advance), swimming, hiking, rock climbing, fishing, mountain biking
Important info: No cell reception. Breakfast, lunch and dinner served at the restaurant, but needs to be booked in advance
Cost: R100 per person
Contact: Tel 0274822807, cederbergpark.com

16. Driehoek Tourist Farm, Cederberg

Location: -32.442490, 19.189830

Driehoek Tourist Farm, Cederberg.

Number of stands: 25, plus a variety of huts and cottages
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Hiking, swimming, horse riding, mountain biking and fishing
Important info: No cellphone reception. Driehoek wines can be purchased at reception
Cost: From R290 per stand (sleeps 4)
Contact: Tel 0274822828, cederberg-accommodation.co.za

17. Beaverlac, Grootfontein Farm, Cederberg

Location: -32.907872, 19.067480

Beaverlac, Grootfontein Farm, Cederberg. Image credit: beaverlac.co.za

Number of stands: Large, open-plan camping area
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: Yes (R50 per night)
Nearby activities: Hiking and swimming in the awesome rock pools
Important info: The shop sells basic supplies, including wood, beer and ice. No music or loud noise of any kind
Cost: R60 per person, kids 4-17 years R40, and R30 per vehicle
Contact: Tel 0229312945, beaverlac.co.za

 
Also read: Top tips for camping at Beaverlac

18. Matroosberg Private Nature Reserve, Ceres

Location: -33.330238, 19.611104

Matroosberg Private Nature Reserve, Ceres.

Although this is one of the Western Cape’s most popular destinations to see snow, Matroosberg is also a perfect destination for a summer getaway. The fairly small and peaceful camping area is far removed from the chalets and houses in the reserve, in a shady pine tree area beside the Spek River. If you enjoy getting active, they offer abseiling, hiking, mountain biking, kloofing, horse riding and even target shooting. If, however, you just want to relax, you can walk to the rock pools and spend an afternoon swimming and soaking up the sun.

Number of stands: 14 in the main campsite, plus private sites and self-catering cottages
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Mostly sand, with some grass
Pets: Yes
Nearby activities: There’s lots to do, from hiking to target shooting. Great place for winter snow
Important info: No access after 9pm. No single night bookings over weekends
Cost: From R55 per person
Contact: Tel 0233122282, matroosberg.com

19. Miller’s Point Caravan Park, Simon’s Town

Location: -34.228424, 18.469935

Miller’s Point, Simon’s Town.

Number of stands: 16
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Communal braai area, bring your own grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Cape Point is just down the road, and in the other direction, Simon’s Town is full of interesting shops and great restaurants. the Boul­ders Beach pen­guin colony is also nearby
Important info:
Cost: R165 per stand (sleeps 6)
Contact: Tel 0217861142

 
Also read: 26 affordable weekend getaways near Cape Town

20. Vloedbos Campsite, Caledon

Location: -34.333374, 19.694399

Vloedbos Campsite, Caledon. Image credit: vloedbos.co.za

Number of stands: 46, plus various chalets and cabins
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Scattered trees
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: The pool, trampoline and super tube will keep the kids busy
Important info: This is a family campsite so expect to find plenty of young kids around. R100 cash key deposit required for all vehicles. Shop sells basic supplies, but no alcohol
Cost: From R350 per stand (sleeps 4), additional adults R85 each (max 6 per stand). Price increases during peak season
Contact: Tel 0833591505, vloedbos.co.za

21. Victoria Bay Caravan Park, Victoria Bay

Location: -34.004796, 22.547882

Victoria Bay Caravan Park, Victoria Bay.

Number of stands: 20 caravan stands on the Western Terrace, plus another separate camping area across the bay
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: No
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Surfing, fishing and exploring the Garden Route
Important info: The Western Terrace usually only allows caravans during peak season, unless by prior arrangement
Cost: From R220 to R440 per stand depending on the season (sleeps 6)
Contact: Tel 0448890081, victoriabaycaravanpark.co.za

Campsites in the Eastern Cape

22. Storms River Mouth Rest Camp, Garden Route National Park

Location: -34.022236, 23.885529

Storms River Mouth Rest Camp, Garden Route National Park.

Number of stands: 30 for tents and 82 for caravans, plus various self-catering chalets and cottages
Electricity: Yes, but not at all stands
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Limited. 38 to 47 are tucked into the forest and have some shade
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Beautiful hiking trails and a range of adventure activities both inside and outside the park (tubing, zip lining, bungee jumping)
Important info: The park has an excellent shop for most supplies, plus a restaurant
Cost: From R300 per stand (for 2 people), plus R82 per additional adult (max 6 per stand). R49 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0422811607, sanparks.org

 
Also read: Guide to Storms River – South Africa’s most adventurous town

23. Mvubu Campsite, Addo Elephant National Park

Location: -33.340898, 25.360591

Addo Elephant National Park.

Number of stands: 6
Electricity: No, but hot shower available
Braai facilities: Yes, bring own wood and grid
Shade: Partial shade at some sites
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Swimming, fishing and canoeing on the Sundays River, game drives
Important info: High clearance vehicle required. Bring your own drinking water
Cost: R140 per stand (2 people), R60 per additional adult (max 4 per stand). R62 daily conservation fee (not applicable to Wild Card holders). Full rates and tariffs here
Contact: Tel 0422338600, sanparks.org

24. Kudu Kaya Campsite, Baviaanskloof

Location: -33.653132, 24.583987

Kudu Kaya Campsite, Baviaanskloof. Image credit: kudukaya.co.za

Number of stands: 17, 1 private, plus 6 self-catering cabins
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Mountain biking, hiking and swimming in the nearby rock pools. The farm owners will happily show interested guests around the farm on request
Important info: Toilet paper not provided
Cost: R80 per person, kids 5-12 half price
Contact: Tel 0738621968, kudukaya.co.za

25. Bruintjieskraal, Baviaanskloof

Location: -33.705347, 24.609979

Bruintjieskraal, Baviaanskloof. Image credit: bruintjieskraal.co.za

Number of stands: 13, 4 more private, plus 3 self-catering chalets
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass, with some dirt
Pets: By prior arrangement only
Nearby activities: Fishing (bass, carp, barber), swimming, hiking
Important info: Bring your own drinking water
Cost: From R70 per person (low season). Kids under 9 half price
Contact: Tel 0845150993, bruintjieskraal.co.za

 
Also see: In photos – Baviaanskloof’s Leopard Trail

26. Karnmelkspruit River Resort, Lady Grey

Location: -30.805977, 27.267700

Karnmelkspruit River Resort, Lady Grey.

Number of stands: 2 open-plan grass areas – 25 to 30 stands, plus 1 private, self-catering cottage
Electricity: Only at the central ablution block
Braai facilities: Communal, covered braai area at the ablutions
Shade: Scattered small trees
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: Yes
Nearby activities: Fly fishing along the spruit (R100 per rod per day), hiking, exploring the old railway tunnel nearby
Important info: The 2.5km dirt track to the campsite is bumpy, but sedan-friendly if you go slow
Cost: R180 per tent, plus R10 per person
Contact: Tel 0845847036, facebook.com

27. Double Mouth Campsite, Morgan Bay

Location: -32.724126, 28.313872

A 15-minute drive south of Morgan Bay you’ll find Double Mouth Campsite, a stunning, secluded site, surrounded by river, beach, cliffs and sea. There’s plenty of shade to camp under and loads of space for the kids to play. The sea can get a bit rough along this coast, but there are plenty of rock pools to explore at low tide, and the river and estuary are safe to swim in. There’s excellent shore fishing, and wonderful views from the cliffs above.

Number of stands: 30
Electricity: Yes (caravan socket)
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Shore fishing, swimming and canoeing in the estuary, stunning walkings along the surrounding cliffs and beach
Important info: Six people per site
Cost: R225 per site off peak, R300 in peak season
Contact: Tel 0437054400 or 0434920881

28. Yellowwood Forest Campsite, Morgan Bay

Location: -32.696946, 28.333667

Yellowwood Forest Campsite, Morgan Bay. Image credit: yellowwoodforest.co.za

Number of stands: 30
Electricity: Yes, at 12 stands
Braai facilities: Yes, at the stands and communal. Bring own grids
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: By prior arrangement only
Nearby activities: Hiking, beaching and volunteering opportunities
Important info: Restaurant and bar on site. Laundry and wifi available. Wood for sale. No music allowed
Cost: From R115 per stand, plus R15 per person (max 6 per stand). Electricity from R65 per day (low season)
Contact: Tel 0848522601, yellowwoodforest.co.za

29. Rendezvous Caravan Park, East London

Location: -32.840959, 28.114426

Not as well known as the other Sunshine Coast campsites, the lush Rendezvous Caravan Park offers secluded camping on a spectacular beach. Each campsite has a private bathroom, portable braai (with grid), electricity, running water and scullery. Laundry is communal. There’s also a playground and trampoline, and a fenced kids’ pool.

Number of stands: 29 secluded stands for tents and caravans
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: By prior arrangement, low season only
Nearby activities: Beautiful beach on the doorstep and plenty of activities in the area – fishing, hiking, horse riding
Important info: Laundry facilities available
Cost: R100 per stand, plus R50 per adult and R40 per child/pensioner (low season, max 7 per stand). High season is R600 per stand for 4 people (max 6 per stand)
Contact: Tel 0437343072 / 0731443005, rendezvouscaravanpark.co.za

30. Dwesa Campsite, Dwesa-Cwebe Nature Reserve

Location: -32.303896, 28.830280

View of Dwesa-Cwebe Nature Reserve.

Number of stands: 40, plus 2- and 4-sleeper wooden chalets
Electricity: No (gas showers)
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own wood and grid
Shade: Plenty of trees
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Spectacular beach and cliff-top hiking, excellent birding (290 species, including Narina trogon and mangrove kingfisher)
Important info: Access to the reserve is along 2 hours of bumpy dirt roads from the N2, high clearance vehicle recommended
Cost: From R212 per stand (sleeps 6)
Contact: Tel 0437054400, visiteasterncape.co.za

Campsites in KwaZulu-Natal

31. Ilanga Resort and Caravan Park, Banana Beach

Location: -30.663469, 30.514817

Ilanga Resort and Caravan Park, Banana Beach. Image credit: ilangaresort.com

Number of stands: 100
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Mostly grass, with some dirt and sand
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Fishing, scuba diving, golf, plenty of beach time and a swimming pool, pool table, table tennis at the resort
Important info: Laundry facilities available
Cost: From R150 per person, kids under 5 R50 (low season). Minimum R700 in high season (3 people). Max 6 per stand
Contact: Tel 0396813280, ilangaresort.com

32. Scottburgh Caravan Park, Umdoni Coast

Location: -30.283429, 30.759432

Scottburgh Caravan Park, Umdoni Coast. Image credit: scottburghcaravanpark.co.za

Number of stands: 265, plus self-catering cottages
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Mostly grass, with some sand
Pets: Yes, by prior arrangement (R25)
Nearby activities: Entertainment and kids’ play area in the resort, plus horse riding, fishing, scuba diving, and Durban is a 30-minute drive north
Important info: Laundry facilities available. The resort shop sells basic supplies and there is a shopping centre nearby
Cost: From R175 per person, R85 for kids (low season). Minimum R840 per stand in high season (4 people)
Contact: Tel 0399760291, scottburghcaravanpark.co.za

 
Also read: Affordable weekend getaways near Durban

33. Zinkwazi Lagoon Lodge, Zinkwazi

Location: -29.277755, 31.439972

Zinkwazi Lagoon Lodge, Zinkwazi.

Number of stands: 89, including 6 extra large ‘super sites’, plus various self-catering options
Electricity: Yes, but single outlets serve multiple stands so bring a 25m extension cord
Braai facilities: At some stands. Bring your own portable to be safe
Shade: Full tree cover
Ground cover: Mostly dirt, some with grass
Pets: Small dogs by prior arrangement
Nearby activities: Fishing, golf, canoes for hire, swimming (pool, sea and lagoon) and surfing. Bar and restaurant on site
Important info: No jetskis allowed, R100 deposit for gate access key, laundry facilities available
Cost: From R160 per person, R80 for kids. Max 4 adults, or 2 adults and 4 kids per stand
Contact: Tel 0324853344, zinkwazilagoonlodge.co.za

34. Richards Bay Caravan Park, Richards Bay

Location: -28.790092, 32.101609

Richards Bay Caravan Park, Richards Bay. Image credit: richardsbaycaravanpark.co.za

Number of stands: 261, of varying sizes, privacy, shade and ground cover
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes, bring your own grid
Shade: From full tree cover, to no shade, depending on the stand
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: Small dogs, by prior arrangement, out of season
Nearby activities: Nearby game parks, golf, paintball, fishing, swimming and access to a beautiful private beach
Important info: Boat parking on stands at additional cost, wheelchair friendly, laundry facilities available
Cost: From R130 per adult and R80 for kids in low season. R250 per adult in high season
Contact: Tel 0357531971, richardsbaycaravanpark.co.za

35. Scotia Camp, Somkhanda Game Reserve

Location: -27.592964, 31.844946

View of Somkhanda Game Reserve. Image credit: Teagan Cunniffe.

Number of stands: 1 large stand for up to 10 tents
Electricity: No
Braai facilities: Yes
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Grass and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Game drives and guides walks available
Important info: 4×4 access only
Cost: From R120 per person (own equipment and self-catering), to R575 per person (full safari tent accommodation and full board)
Contact: Tel 0333302269 / 0741297185, africaninsight.co.za

36. Cape Vidal Campsite, iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Location: -28.132018, 32.552347

Cape Vidal Campsite, iSimangaliso Wetland Park.

Number of stands: 50 stands, plus various self-catering cabins
Electricity: Yes
Braai facilities: Yes. Fixed at some stands, otherwise portable braais are available
Shade: Plenty of tree cover
Ground cover: Sand and dirt
Pets: No
Nearby activities: The beautiful, wide beach makes for great walking and safe swimming. Shore and ski-boat fishing available. Game drives and picnic sites in the area
Important info: The small camp shop has basic supplies. Pack your foodstuffs securely at night or they might be dinner for the hungry camp honey badger
Cost: R540 per stand (4 people), plus R135 per additional adult (max 6 per stand)
Contact: Tel 0338451000, kznwildlife.com

37. Cobham Campsite, Southern Drakensberg

Location: -29.702225, 29.414355

Get back to basics at Cobham, an open-plan campsite where you choose where you want to camp. Pick a spot in the shade and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere and beautiful views of the Southern Drakensberg. There are plenty of hikes in the area, some to caves where you can spend the night, as well as streams to swim in and loads fresh mountain air to breath.

Number of stands: Large, open-plan camping area
Electricity: No, but hot gas showers
Braai facilities: No, bring your own free-standing braai and grid
Shade: Partial tree cover
Ground cover: Grass
Pets: No
Nearby activities: Numerous hiking trails, swimming and fly fishing in the Pholela River
Important info: The area can get very cold in winter and even on some summer evenings, so pack accordingly
Cost: R80 per adult. First 2 kids under 12 stay free
Contact: Tel 0337020831 / 0839623934, kznwildlife.com

 
Also read: Scott Ramsay’s take on the uKhahlamba Drakensberg Mountains

Mokala is a malaria-free national park off the N12 near Kimberley, and a perfect stopover between Cape Town and Joburg.

Although Mokala is the Setswana word for a camel thorn tree, the park is best known for its endangered species like roan, sable and tsessebe, not to mention aardvark and aardwolf. Turn your stopover into a two-night stay and enjoy these activities.

Also read: first time camping in Mokala National Park

1. Stay in a tree house

Kameeldoring tree house, Mokala National Park

 
The Kameeldoring tree house roosts in the branches of – you guessed it – a camel thorn tree. Best of all, it’s 14km away from your nearest human neighbours and overlooks a private waterhole. Here you might get a visit from buffalo, eland, giraffe, warthog, kudu, gemsbok, wildebeest, red hartebeest, springbok, steenbok and meerkat. Watch the sunset through the branches, braai on the deck and fall asleep to the sounds of nature all around.
Tip: There’s a minimum two-night stay. Book ahead on tel 0532048000 but be warned that it’s very popular.

Also read: 7 dreamy treehouses for a faraway break

2. Join a guided sunset drive

Mokala landscape just before sunset

 
Going on a guided sunset drive is a chance to see the landscape soften as the sun sets. It’s also your best chance to see owls, genets and hares, as well as black-backed jackal, bat-eared fox or African wild cat. You may even spot the elusive nocturnal aardvark or aardwolf. (I’ve only seen an aardvark once and it was on a sunset drive at Mokala a few years back.) Our guide Henry van Wyk also helped to unravel the differences between Mokala’s various thorn trees – camel thorn, umbrella thorn, black thorn and more.

Tip: The vehicle will have a spotlight so take your camera and long lens along for the ride.

3. Visit the interpretation centre

Loads of interesting info in the interpretation centre

A diorama’s glass walls set the animals into their natural surroundings

 
Mokala’s interpretation centre just a few kilometres from Mosu Lodge is well worth a visit. Posters and displays tell of the geological and climate background of the area and depict the lives of the Khoi, San, Griqua and Tswana in the old days. Learn how the arrival of trekboers, farmers and missionaries as well as the discovery of diamonds changed things and led to conflicts like the Griqua wars and the Anglo Boer War. Two well constructed dioramas give insight into the life of some of Mokala’s creatures, such as warthog, springbok, steenbok, aardvark and porcupine.

Tip: The interpretation centre is air-conditioned so it’s a great place to visit in the heat of the day.

4. Go birding

Spotted eagle-owl.

 
There are some 150 bird species in Mokala. Keep your eyes peeled for everything from African fish-eagle, kori bustard and secretary bird to pygmy falcon, redbilled oxpecker, sociable weaver and violet-eared waxbill. Don’t forget to take a break at Stofdam bird hide for a chance to spot crimson-breasted shrike, swallow-tailed bee-eater, malachite kingfisher, long-billed crombec, white-backed and lappet-faced vulture, as well as kudu, roan or sable coming for a drink.
Tip: You can sleep over in the rustic Stofdam hide if you book ahead on tel 053-2048000.

5. See San rock engravings

San rock engraving

 
If you’re keen on culture and heritage, get a guide to take you to see San rock art in the park. It’s unusual because the San are usually associated with rock paintings and these are engravings, more usually made by the Khoi. But they match the style and subject matter of the San – i.e. animals – rather than the geometric designs of the Khoi.

Tip: See the Official Information Guide to Mokala at reception or ask your guide for more about these engravings and their significance.

If you have three or more nights to spend, discover another 15 things to do at Mokala National Park.

More details on Mokala National Park

Tel 0532048000 (including bookings for the tree house and Stofdam bird hide)
Website: sanparks.org/parks/mokala

Bookings for all other accommodation in the park: Tel 0124289111, sanparks.org

To follow more of my adventures, see my African travel blog.

A new hike allows the not-so-fit to ride alongside those on foot into the depths of the Baviaanskloof. We were the first to test it out, and found that there’s a magic that happens when you explore this wilderness from a saddle. Photos by Teagan Cunniffe.

For more behind the scenes photos: Scenes from the Baviaans Camino

The beautiful crystal-clear Kouga River, which winds alongside the campsite on the last night.

 
It is a rude awakening, on the first day of the Baviaans Camino, to realise that I’ve been very wrong for a long time.

A sweet breeze is singing in the fynbos as I fumble for a naartjie in my saddlebag, still cool from the morning. Wieda, the beautiful strawberry roan I was introduced to a few hours ago, is crunching up a hill like she was born to do it. We’ve already climbed over a thousand metres in elevation this morning, and have many kilometres of mountain pass ahead of us, but Wieda doesn’t seem concerned, so neither am I. I start peeling my naartjie.

Part of the joy of hiking is triumph over adversity. It’s hard sometimes, and necessarily so; when your knees are wobbling, and your lungs are imploding, and you’re too focused on putting one foot in front of the other to worry about that metallic taste in your mouth. You somehow manage to keep going, and you finally reach that ridge, or peak, or waterfall, and suddenly … bliss. Your struggle meant something, in a very literal sense; it was your pain that brought you here. For a person who loves hiking but is perennially unfit, the epiphany of conquering your own body is one of the most addictive things about hiking – and it makes the beer afterwards taste that much sweeter.

But, nibbling a naartjie on horseback, I have to admit that there might be other ways of doing things.

LEFT: Other creatures are scarce in these mountains, but you’ll see sheep from time to time. RIGHT: this lovely horse was named Noodle.

 
The Baviaans Camino is a new five-day trail in which both horse riders and hikers take on some of the most inhospitable terrain in South Africa. There are 12 of us on this, the inaugural journey; five on horses, seven on foot. Most people fall silent at the mention of the Baviaanskloof. It seems to have a similar mythology to the open spaces of Namibia, where people, after struggling for words, fall back on ‘It’s very … big.’ This eloquent description tends to be based on the R332, a winding dirt road that runs from Willowmore to Patensie. But if you’re not restricted by four wheels, you can take a route that runs perpendicular to that, taking you directly over the spine of the Baviaanskloof into much wilder territory.

Also see: photos from the Leopard Trail, in the Baviaanskloof

‘Wilted’ is perhaps the kindest adjective for how the hikers are doing today; after all, they’ve climbed the equivalent of Table Mountain and still have another 11 kilometres to go. It’s the steepest climb of the trip – the steepest of most trips, I think – and they’re needing to dig deep.

We finally crest over the clenched fist of the Baviaanskloof, and on the other side is a steeper challenge: loose scree, tumbling impossibly downwards like a paused avalanche. The horses seem to be shod with rubber, and they pick their way through the shifting path with deliberation and confidence. It seems impossible. But these horses are extraordinary.

Knackered! And that’s the riders and horses – the hikers proved their mettle by pushing on past us at our pitstop.

 
That’s not according to me, by the way. That’s according to Lynda, an avid horsewoman who spent a month riding a thousand kilometres across Namibia. (She is the sort of rider who brought her own saddle on this trip.)

The thing about this kind of terrain, especially when you’re working with novices, is that you need horses who know what they’re doing. Wieda is a Boerperd with the face of an angel and the heart of a saint, and at this point I am really just trusting her judgement rather than trying to ride. She’s taking this as a suggestion to snack whenever possible, so I figure we’re already two peas in a pod.

We see no shade until we reach the Doringkloof valley and thorn trees close up above us. Everything is silent except for the horses’ hooves crunching over the bright white pebbles of a dry riverbed. We’ve been in the saddle for over seven hours. But nobody mentions how their body aches as we watch the dust hanging sublime in the air, brilliant as a sun flare.

The afternoon sun caught the dust kicked up by the support vehicle, turning it gold as Hercules and Diamant walked through.

 
The experience might be bliss, but it certainly isn’t luxury. You’re the one untacking your horse, taking it to water, washing it down, feeding it dinner – before you’ve taken off your shoes. If you don’t know your way around a saddle, you’re going to have to learn sharpish. It’s a bit like sailing, with all those fiddly knots; and a bit like motorbikes, but instead of gears and levers there are eternal numbers of straps and buckles.

There is also the ridiculous lexicon, surely some sort of centuries-old practical joke: words like snaffle, pommel, numnah. But the most important thing about mucking around with horses is actually getting to know horses; the simple, old-fashioned process of making friends with another creature. Unlike the dead-eyed drones you’ll find doing the rounds along seasides or at children’s parties, these horses have quirks and personalities. And watching these silly, wise, beautiful animals throw themselves at the sweet grass as if it’s an all-you-can-eat sushi buffet is charming.

The next day we wake to an excessive farm breakfast: mieliepap and oats, bacon and eggs, roosterkoek, mushrooms and baked beans, in vats large enough to drown a donkey. We brush the horses until they glimmer, saddle up and get back on the road. A fire swept through this area about a month ago, so the mountains stretching ahead of us are hard and blackened, like a burnt crème brûlée.

Lynda striking a dramatic pose against the charred mountains.

 
The second day is a tough one. Hercules, the head horseman, tells us that it involves three hills – and at this point we can only see the first of them. We are heading into the Kouga mountains. The hikers are sore – everyone’s sore – and chatter is at a minimum as we climb slowly up the face of the first hill. Org, one of the hikers, says: ‘By the time we arrive, we’ll know every rock by its name.’ There’s a bracing wind, whistling up the slope even though there’s nothing for it to blow through.

We stop for lunch when the sun is blazing directly overhead, and take the bridles and saddles off the horses, leaving them dozing under a tree. The morning’s roosterkoek has been double-baked in the saddlebag, and it’s tough as I tear it into pieces with my dusty, horsey fingers. It’s hard not to think of us as banditos, slouching through the blackened fynbos, faces obscured by buffs. Avoiding man and law.

Lunch breaks meant shade, food, and rest – and in my case, note-taking.

 
It’s while we’re sitting here, trying desperately to avoid the smell of a dead sheep nearby, that Wieda rubs her head against me and I get it – that intoxicating horse magic. A car that is somehow also a pet, a motorbike that has a personality? The witchery of a soft nose, warm skin, the smell of old leather and clinking metal. I get it all.

Lunchtime means a break, for horses and humans alike.

We saddle up and carry on, carving our way through the mountain until the trail topples over a steep rim and we see the lush folds of the Tsitsikamma rise over to our left. It’s a 360-degree view, as if we’re dancing above the mountains, and they curl like surf as far as the eye can see. After another hill – and another – we turn off the path and ride in between the mountain’s knuckles, dovetailed with a lush green seam running along the bottom. We pitch our tents in paradise valley, happy and plump with accomplishment.

We wake with the birds the next day. A mist has come down, and as we ride into the next valley it’s like descending into a bowl of milk. Pelargoniums burn through the haze, impossibly bright and beaded with dew. After her heroic turn the day before, Wieda’s front leg is bothering her, so I dismount and we walk together. The hikers admit us into their ranks without any gloating, and it’s surprisingly refreshing to change gears into the familiarity of hiking, one foot crunching after the other. I’m still getting a horse’s-eye view of the trail, though. She notices things I wouldn’t – the sweet and delicious flowers of a leucospermum bush, a gnarled tree trunk, the wind in the fynbos.

Ominous clouds and patches of mist on day three lent themselves to silhouette shots.

 
We come down into a valley of towering yellowwoods and eat cold boerie rolls, a light rain misting the horses, making everything opaque. After a long day’s riding the trail crosses a sparkling stream and we see the farmhouse at Ragelsrivier, cupped in the palm of the mountains. We ride through a herd of curious cows, bright as burnished copper. It’s hard not to feel the tug of the alternate universe, where this is what you do every day.

The farmhouse at Ragel’s Rivier, and the curious cows around it.

 
As we huddle around the campfire that night, everyone is hurting. Feet, backs, bums: the pain seems to crack people open a little. There’s something more gentle, more intimate about the stories tonight. Elmien, a teacher from a nearby farm school, makes us dinner. She tells us about her classes, what it’s like to explain hot-air balloons to children who don’t have electricity.

On the last day, it’s time to conquer the Moordenaarskloof – murderer’s valley. As with any place with such an intriguing moniker, there are several robust theories as to how it earned its name, each as unlikely as the last. It’s a long, smooth, steady climb. I’m riding a Scottish Highlander pony today, with a face that matches her adorable name – Custard. Wieda waits behind us. She will be transported to our next spot in a horse trailer, but she doesn’t know that yet, so she whickers anxiously for her friends.

One thing I know from previous trails I’ve done is that there’s usually a moment when the actual riders break away from us ham-fisted pretenders and canter ahead. I’ve always hung back but today, after four days in the saddle, there’s no way I’m staying behind. We come whooping up the hill like outlaws, and I catch a glimpse of Teagan, our photographer: reins in one hand, the other improbably cradling a camera, her eyes ablaze.

And just like that, as if we’ve exceeded the day’s quota of lawlessness and are about to blow our cover, we climb out of the kloof and into rolling farmlands. It’s not far to go.

A glimpse of the Kouga River.

 
When we take our last turn down and see the Kouga River snaking deep and dark along the seam of the mountain, it’s the most beautiful thing I’ve ever seen. We’ll be sleeping alongside it tonight. We untack and take the horses to the water; with some chiding, a few are persuaded to swim. Then they roll in the sand on the bank like puppies, delighted to be free of the sweat and effort of the last few days. We have an hour or two to wait until the hikers arrive. Teagan and I doze on the toasty sand, hidden by the rushes, listening to the birds overhead.

LEFT: You can lead a horse to water. If you’re Teagan, you might even get it to swim. RIGHT: sunrise moerkoffie is essential on the trail.

 
Someone suggests another ride and our ears prick up. We’ve already arrived at our campsite and there’s nowhere left to go. We saddle up regardless, and as the horses break into a canter and we lean deeper into our saddles, we’re thinking of nothing but the sunset splitting across the plateau, and the wind in our faces.

A last canter on the trail. Riding is generally done at a walking pace on the trail, but we couldn’t resist a last surge of speed.

Plan your trip

Getting there

Hikers and riders meet in Steytlerville the night before. Port Elizabeth is the closest airport, about a 90 minutes’ drive (flights from R1 520).

Need to know

If you’re an experienced hiker, it’s certainly worth doing this camino on foot. The horse- riding option opens up this wilderness to beginners, allowing families and groups of differing fitness to do it together. Don’t worry about jodhpurs and boots; thick jeans and good tackies are fine. You’ll be wearing a helmet instead of a sunhat, though, so make sure you’ve got enough sunblock. There’s little signal on the route but there is a satellite phone in case of emergency.

When to go

The Baviaans Camino happens only in the cooler months, from March to September. The next one is on 3 March.

What to bring

You’ll be camping for at least two of the four nights. Bring your own hiking gear, sleeping bag and pillow, as well as alcohol if you’d like it. Tents, mattresses and everything else is provided, including drinking water and all your meals. Fully catered for four nights and five days, it costs R7200 per person for hikers plus an extra R1500 per person for riders. baviaanscamino.com

Early morning calm on the last morning of the trail. From here we all went our separate ways – until next time.

This story was first published in the February 2017 issue of Getaway magazine.

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Our February issue features a wild new way to traverse the Baviaanskloof, the Okavango Delta’s most affordable safari, 6 local shores to explore and Italy’s 8 prettiest dips.