The bohemian suburb of Melville celebrates its 120th anniversary this year and even after all this time, I’ve discovered that it remains just as charming.
I can’t remember the first time I went to Melville. I just know I’ve always loved it.
I was in my early twenties, studying, discovering, exploring… young and carefree. I learned about what life was like after the sun had set, I learned to talk about poetry and art, of the raptures of happy hour (which went hand-in-hand with building solid relationships with the cab driver; Thabane was good to us), I learned about feminism, to communicate with boys that no longer wore school uniform, and to dance like no one’s watching. It was there that I began to pull back the veil of sheltered youth. Life unfolded here.
About a decade later, I’m still enamoured and I recently returned to the ‘hippie village’ to get reacquainted – this time, to write a story for the April 2016 issue of Getaway. Here is what I experienced in pictures.
First impressions: The quiet, neat streets of the hippies’ village.
My first stop was at 27 Boxes, an innovative mall built with shipping containers that houses local businesses and artisan goodies.
I loved the bright colours of 27 Boxes; and the piano on the ground floor.
Don’t miss ‘Impressed – Recreational Juicing’, a cold-pressed juice bar that specializes in fresh juices, super smoothies and health shots.
My next stop was the one and only 7th Avenue. Lots has changed, but many things (and places) remain the same.
Luckily, eTuk-Tuk is now on hand to whisk you about town and they go as far as Parkhurst, Greenside and to Park Station in the inner city.
A welcome addition, Hell’s Kitchen is a new kid on the block.
The rock ‘n roll decor at Hell’s Kitchen on 7th. Try their Dragon Fiery Ginger Beer on tap – the only ginger beer in Melville.
Another favourite is Bread and Roses: its interior is an eclectic blend of African prints and brightly coloured palettes.
That’s one of the co-owners, Ishmael Kapula, of Bread and Roses biking about the village.
Left: Bromely Cawood and I met as I was crossing the street. He liked my dress, I loved his sunnies. We sat for a while and he shared his wine with me. Right: Marie-Lais Emond was part of the team that introduced e-tuktuk, she’s lived in Melville for 20 years and writes a column called Other Side of the City for the Saturday Citizen. A great person, hugely knowledgeable on the village.
A view of Melville from the hilltops of Brixton.
I’m sure a lot of you will recognise this iconic angle.
Left: a poster of Dumisile Feni seen inside Roving Bantu Kitchen in Brixton – a must-visit. Right: Sifiso Ntuli has always been keen on furthering the arts and his contribution in the area of Brixton is large, and an important one. The Bantu Kitchen is worth a visit for the food, a weekly film or documentary screening, and conversations with bra Sifiso.
Every item on the walls and in the Bantu Kitchen kitchen tells a story. Let Sifiso tell you about each decor piece himself.
Sifiso had said, ‘history very rarely memorializes woman, and the indigenous people.’ This mural, titled ‘The doors of learning and culture shall be open’, celebrates singing greats like sis Busi Mhlongo and Brenda Fassie.
Memoirs on the wall of Mozambique inside Xai Xai, inspired by the the city in the south of Mozambique. Xai Xai is priced right and is one of the more integrated spots on the strip.
A skater girl rolls down 7th.
A view of the Johannesburg skyline from my balcony at 12 Stars Lifestyle Apartments.
The independent bookshop Love Books has a good collection of local authors and leading titles.
Ruth’s Antiques on 4th is set on a heritage site and has treasures for days.
The Leopard is another icon and the food is said to be some of the best in Melville.
If you’re looking for a place to stay I can recommend the lovely and quaint Ginnegaap Guesthouse.
And visit Service Station for the fantastic lunch buffet and general good vibes.
Motel Mi Pi Chi is another great place to stay.
And be sure to stop in at the bakery Cafe De La Creme (left). Their pastries are the bomb, and their breakfast is even better. They also have a range cold pressed juices for those who’ve discovered their might. Liberation Cafe (right) has a younger crowd and good for a drink and a boogie with friends on the weekend.
Follow my adventures and things on Instagram and Twitter.
Long Live Melville, man.
Read the full story in the April 2016 issue of Getaway magazine.
Our April issue is packed full of great holiday ideas for 2016. Get your copy today.
This article, Photoblog: Long Live Melville, was originally posted on the Getaway Blog by Vuyi Qubeka.